Just went out to rotate the tyres, and the locking wheel nut wouldn't budge at all. Anyway I increased the force (...!) and the bugger split on me. It's still in there, and the rest of the nut still fits on it... any ideas? I've drenched it in wd40.
is it the locking wheel nut itself or the wheel nut key ??? if its the locking nut i think there are companies in yellow pages who can remove them or seek advice from the main stealer
There are some special sockets you can get that have a spiral pattern inside them. They're designed for removing locking wheel nuts if you dont have the key. I would ring around some of the tyre places (like ATS, etc) and ask them if they have anything like that. Failing that you could always get some really big drill bits, drill the head off so you can get the wheel off and then remove whats left with mole grips(or a stud extractor)
The key's in tact, the head has split at the bottom and kinda looks like a side view of a flat tyre. As the nut is properly stuck there (why it split in the first place) any ideas for budging it? I was thinking maybe do up the rest, drive out and do some serious stopping to heat up the hub...?
i got a set of removal sockets, i got them to remove some locking nuts just like u did,, cos they done same thing,,busted...... the nuts didnt fit on the nute because the resses in the wheel, ended up welding a nut onto the end of the broken bolt, got all 4 off in no time & no damage to the wheels, ur welcome to use the sockets but it mite work depending on the wheels u have, im happy to post em to you if u wana borrow them
Dead easy! Get ya socket set out, and find a socket that's SLIGHTLY too small to go over the nut, then smack in on with a hammer, as far as you can down the nut, then get as much leverage as you can with ya bits of extension bars in the socket set etc etc, and heave ho! I did it a few months ago, and with a CRACK! it came off. Bit of a bas**rd to get the nut out of the socket mind :D Good luck
that does work sometimes liddo but u need to use an impact socket as cheap halfords ets will split if u hammer them over the bolt, i save all my crap sockets for just that sort of job, normally only get 1 or 2 goes at it ,
[QUOTE=Liddo]Dead easy! Get ya socket set out, and find a socket that's SLIGHTLY too small to go over the nut[/QUOTE] Cheers Gathy, but thing is the head is circular. so surely it'll just spin?
[QUOTE=t5 stealth]ur welcome to use the sockets but it mite work depending on the wheels u have, im happy to post em to you if u wana borrow them[/QUOTE] You're a star! I may have to take you up on that, I'll keep you posted! ;)
[QUOTE=tomcat]I would ring around some of the tyre places (like ATS, etc) and ask them if they have anything like that.[/QUOTE] Cheers tomcat, I'll be up to the tyre places tomorrow am! Can't for the life of me think why this particular one is so siezed, the others came off a doddle. Typical!
i dont know where ur located but im up in kent on sunday, & to the place where the chunnel is,,dont know wot its called, praise the lord for tom tom
[QUOTE=t5 stealth]praise the lord for tom tom[/QUOTE] Heh, apart from when it torches your car! "third party, fire , theft and tomtom"
lol i thought that aswell,
[QUOTE=pzorb]Cheers Gathy, but thing is the head is circular. so surely it'll just spin?[/QUOTE] It doesnt spin because the splines inside the socket dig into the bolt as your whacking it on. Give it a go, worth a try :B_thumb:
[QUOTE=pzorb]Cheers Gathy, but thing is the head is circular. so surely it'll just spin?[/QUOTE] Hi, I had the same problem as you`ve got, I hammered on a 3/4 AF socket so the locking wheel nut is right up inside the socket and it worked !!! the only problem was getting it out of the socket.
Pzorb - I had the same problem last summer - paid £50 for a boy racer shack to removed the knackered bolt + supplty and fit a new set of McGuard Locking Bolts. :B_steerin
I had that problem once. I had a flat tyre and when I went to remove the wheel the locking nut sheared off. I called the AA to help me, but the bloke that came wasn't told the actual problem and didn't bring the spiral nut remover. Anyway I ended up having to be towed to Halfords on the back of a flat bed. How stupid did I feel, getting the car transported to Halford to change the tyre!!!!!! It only took 2.5 hours to change a tyre. Anyway good luck with the tyre companies.
Right so I hammered on a 3/4 socket, and it finally got something moving! "Wahey" says I!
Then lots and lots and lots of swearing:
McGard Locking Nuts can f*ck right off.
ATS had a good look, and I'm taking it to be drilled tomorrow. I'm worried that the bolt is on so tight that there'll be damage to the hub; crossed thread etc.
When/if the b*gger does come out, I'll need some new locking nuts. Any recommendations?
And McGard... :mgshoot: :ready2go:
If its any consolation, I have a set of those very same locking bolts on my car at the moment, and they're just starting to play up. As you can imagine the last time I undid them I didn't tighten them back up too tight(just incase), I'm going to order another set too. Just a thought, if you absolutely cant shift it, take it to a garage and ask them to weld another nut onto the end of it, after that its just a case of undoing it.
They're actually standard fit on Volvos according to the dealer I spoke with today. What did surprise me was that they come with absolutely no warranty unless they fail within two weeks of you buying a new car from Volvo. Not even a pesky year's warranty!
[QUOTE=tomcat]Just a thought, if you absolutely cant shift it, take it to a garage and ask them to weld another nut onto the end of it, after that its just a case of undoing it.[/QUOTE] Cheers for the help tomcat. Might be a tricky job to do as it's maybe 1 cm into the bolt recess. The number of times I could have done with a welder this year... would those wee torches be any good for this kinda stuff?
If your welding a big enough nut onto the end, you can just weld through the hole in the middle. A mig welder would be perfect for this sort of thing.
i've seen a special tool used before now for doing this, its basically a funnel (for want of a better description), that pushes around the damaged wheel nut, and then makes it nice and easy to weld without risking any damage to the wheel.
Cool
Right job done. Cost £10 this morning. Many thanks to tomcat, T5ER, t5 stealth (I won't be needing those tools now but thankyou for offering), Liddo, oblark, MattB, Pissed'n'Broke, and rufe for all your advice. Spread the ovlov :)
Everyone who has locking wheel nuts should have a set of these:
Bloke said that with the 3pin products (
), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.
He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)
[QUOTE=pzorb]
Bloke said that with the 3pin products (), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.
He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)[/QUOTE]
Geesh - glad you were able to remove the bolt without having to cut the wheel of SAAB style!! I think I'll invest in a set of those sockets - ready for a rainy day! BTW - did you use a breaker bar or impact wrench?? I originally had the 3pin variety, which simply fell apart, hence needing to have it drilled out. I've heard mixed reviews about all locking nuts, inc McGuard. TBH if there was no or little risk of my alloys being pinched - I wouldn't bother, as they are alot of hassle!! But then I suppose neither would anyone else!?
Anyway, glad you're sorted :anmflower
Two big blokes hanging off the end of an extended breaker bar!
Well done, can I ask how much it cost for the sockets?. I must get some replacements for mine as soon as I can afford some.
duhhh, sorry if I'm being thick here but what do the sockets in the picture do, how do they help to remove the broken stud?
They're a ;eft hand thread, so....if you screw them on like you where undoing something, they screw into the stud and allow you to undo it. And the more you turn it the tighter it will grip.
[QUOTE=tomcat]Well done, can I ask how much it cost for the sockets?. I must get some replacements for mine as soon as I can afford some.[/QUOTE] The reverse thread ones were a tenner from a local motorist's shop. Halfords do some for a surprisingly reasonable price, around the same mark. Can't remember off the top of my head but closer to £10 than £20.
[QUOTE=tomcat]And the more you turn it the tighter it will grip.[/QUOTE] Yup once they've bitten in something will have to give.
[QUOTE=pzorb]Right job done. Cost £10 this morning. Many thanks to tomcat, T5ER, t5 stealth (I won't be needing those tools now but thankyou for offering), Liddo, oblark, MattB, Pissed'n'Broke, and rufe for all your advice. Spread the ovlov :)
Everyone who has locking wheel nuts should have a set of these:
Bloke said that with the 3pin products (), welding an extension to them isn't a problem; however apparently the type of steel used for the McGard ones makes strong welding almost impossible...? Discuss.
He said that using one of these reverse-thread sockets had only failed him once, on a Saab, where he had to cut the wheel off(!)[/QUOTE]
he he he, saaaaabs , ive had three 2.3 9000 turbos, great cars but dont work on them.... oh my word... everything and i do mean everything welds itself together on them.
they run very hot and have turbo at the front of engine.
at least 10 times i thought i had just loosend a bolt/nut, only to find it twisted off in a socket.
lost the thread off a spark plug in the plug recess once, tightend up whilst removing and it went crack.... big job that one ,my labour and costs were frightening.
saabs , their strong.... too strong !!! lol