Silver C70 T5 - Manual - 400BHP
Posts
Post 276636 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 00:52:25
[SIZE=2]Updated Spec - 12/12/2011[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]I have been developing and shaping this Silver C70 T5 for 5 years or more. Car as of Dec 2011 is now showing 159K plus change.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]She's 12 years old now. FSH - carried out by HLM Motorsport.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Never ever wanted for anything. This was originally a for sale thread - but I am keeping hold of the C70 for now.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]
[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]She is an MY1999 ME7 T5 Sport with an electronic throttle and manual 5 speed gearbox.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]She is unique in many ways. Very fast - possibly one of the best handling T5s. I have spared no expense on my mods.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Features include[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- IPD Short Ram Intake - Gives great induction noise and release from the recirc valve.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- 19T Turbo.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Ferrita Race Cat 3" DP[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Larger 3 inch core FMIC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- AST Custom reverse intercooler pipework[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Samco hoses for I/C pipework & hoses in Blue![/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Samco Coolant hoses - blue[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Custom Stainless air intake.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Miltec 2.75" Stainless Steel Cat back exhaust system - possibly one of the only C70s with this kit - you can't even buy it now. Sounds awesome but is not intrusive[/SIZE]
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4250
[SIZE=2]- Green Hi-Flow rate Volvo injectors - new in August 2009. AFR will never be a problem![/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Only Custom Remap in the country from HLM (new supplier from Sweden)[/SIZE][SIZE=2]- Produces 312Bhp - with 1.25[/SIZE][SIZE=2] bar[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Data logging now enabled for Andriod Phones.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Bilstein B3 shocks. Possibly the best shocks you can buy for this road car? Absolutely no rock or roll, but very progressive and smooth ride. Awesome road holding.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- IPD Re-inforced Anti-Roll bars front and rear[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Mehle heavy duty front end drop links[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Volvo Front OEM Strut Brace[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Ferrodo DS2500 - all round. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Goodridge Braided lines [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Dot 5 racing blue brake fluid.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Run on nothing but Shell V-Power. Serviced only with Shell Ultrahelix 5w40 oil every 5000 miles.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- NGK Iridium 8 Spark plugs.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]- Quaiffe LSD fitted into a M56HK gearbox.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Interior - [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]1/2 leather, 1/2 alcantera seats & trim.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Front Airbag (Driver only)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Full Climate Control - Air con still works perfectly.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Alpine: IVA-D310R Motorised DVD monitor (4 years old - 2011) - Headunit feature 7" motorised retractable TFT monitor with PulseTouch control - detachable control panel - separate processor unit in the boot. Very secure - very cool. Plays DVDs, DVD-Rs, DVD-RWs, CDs, CD-Rs, CD-RWs, and MP3/WMA discs - more details...[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3516/referer/rc_googleproduct.html[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]I have fitted an ipod adapter, Alpine make separately - so that you see what you see on your ipod![/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Volvo OEM 10 cd storage unit fills the gap under the single DIN HU.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Vovlo OEM antenna down switch keeps the electric aerial tucked away when not needed.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Sony Ericsson hands free bluetooth mobile phone - works with mini joystick and/or voice operation. Communicates with any BT enabled phone. (see attached below)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Exterior - [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Wheels - I have a set of 5 17" Comet 5 spoke alloys. I did have some nice 19s until some basterd nicked 'em.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]225/45/R17 Tyres - summer and seperate winter tyres[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]MY2003 rear clusters fitted in August 2009.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]MY2003 clear front headlights fitted also 2009. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]HID 6000 kit with matching LED side light bulbs. Turns night into day.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]HID 6000 kit for main beam. Osram Nightbreaker bulbs in the fog lights.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Clear indicator clusters (see albums below) and clear wing clusters.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Electric & heated wing mirrors.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Flat frameless wiper blades.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Paint work fastidiously maintained using modern paint corrective techniques and the best equipment. Some parts have also been resprayed to correct damage and marks that most would leave alone. There are however marks/stone chips on the front splitter and bonnet edge. I will pass on the Volvo touch-in paint pots I have to help keep on top of them - as I have tried to do.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Photo Albums are here...[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/galleries/my_Current_idx.htm[/SIZE]
Lots of Videos here... http://www.youtube.com/user/WobblyDave72?feature=mhee
[SIZE=2]PB for 1/4 mile - 14.502@ 104.7mph [/SIZE]
Post 276637 by cameron on 2009-12-21 01:05:24
Cant beilive your selling her dave.
You'll be gutted when she goes.
I can vouch for the quality in this machine, its lovely.
Not the best piccy but gives a good idea of the look with the Comets ..............
Post 276638 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 01:15:01
Thanks for the vote of confidence. The new machine will be equally as cool once finished - if not more so.
Just uploaded other previously unseen photos, including when I had nothing better to do than make it REALLY shiny!
Post 276644 by linkin582 on 2009-12-21 07:52:25
that is a great looking car with an awsome spec list. if only i had the pennys !!!!
Post 276646 by Vikingxl on 2009-12-21 07:56:47
Great looking car at a great and realistic price. Good luck with the sale wobbles and onwards and upwards!!!
Post 276659 by Justin on 2009-12-21 08:14:28
Yeah have to agree, that car is doted on, lovely condition and a credit to its owner, good luck with the sale mate :)
Post 276666 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 10:05:39
Forgot to mention the new green injectors fitted earlier this summer.
Post 276706 by Storm-Troll on 2009-12-21 11:39:24
good luck with the sale Dave... this is truely a first class car.. I have had the pleasure of driving it myself and can vouch for its Awsomeness lol.... you will be sad to see the Wobble Chariot go.. are you moving up to the Toyota Prius now???. I know u have been wanting one for sometime now....
Post 276707 by wegal on 2009-12-21 11:42:51
Anyone who buys this car will get a real good un, ive seen it ive driven in it and driven it. Great Car.
Post 276709 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 11:47:40
iirc i drove this at shakespear raceway and can vouch it is one of the best kept C70`s and volvos i have seen for a long time, i think i drove it before it was modified and it was quick then. Good luck Dave with the sale i take it your going for a new C70 then
Post 276711 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 12:22:50
[quote=Storm-Troll;276706]good luck with the sale Dave... this is truely a first class car.. I have had the pleasure of driving it myself and can vouch for its Awsomeness lol.... you will be sad to see the Wobble Chariot go.. are you moving up to the Toyota Prius now???. I know u have been wanting one for sometime now....[/quote]
I am staying in a C70 - except this one is black SE LUX and has a folding roof.
Post 276714 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 12:42:31
So did you buy that one you spyed not long ago? great car and bloody cheap too.
Post 276717 by Murphy on 2009-12-21 12:52:26
Great value Dave, should sell no problem :D
Post 276735 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 14:19:15
I appreciate all the kind words - I am proud to see that my C70 is held is such high regard.
Now for the bad news - I have decided not to buy the black C70 SE LUX and be boring and pay off CC debts etc.
It was a close call.
Mods - can I have my own Wobbly Dave section in the forum now? Best if you move this thread to C section perhaps?
Post 276742 by abdul on 2009-12-21 14:47:35
whats the price seem to have missed it
Post 276782 by lance on 2009-12-21 17:20:45
Best thing to do mate you wont find a better T5 not without spending a fortune and you have done on this one already!
Post 276799 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 18:19:03
[quote=abdul;276742]whats the price seem to have missed it[/quote]
You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.
Post 276858 by smithy on 2009-12-21 20:18:02
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276638]Thanks for the vote of confidence. The new machine will be equally as cool once finished - if not more so.
Just uploaded other previously unseen photos, including when I had nothing better to do than make it REALLY shiny![/quote]
what is the new machine then srry did not read all of the thread
Post 276860 by smithy on 2009-12-21 20:24:54
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276799]You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.[/quote]
why dont you get a 850 t5 for now to keep you in the volvo world but you will always be on here you are part of the furniture lol
Post 276881 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 21:23:20
As that sadly would be a step in wrong direction. It is not the fact I dislike my current ride or anything - I just need to calm it on taking on more commitments. Give me a year - I get my SE LUX.
Post 276887 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 21:33:32
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276881]As that sadly would be a step in wrong direction. It is not the fact I dislike my current ride or anything - I just need to calm it on taking on more commitments. Give me a year - I get my SE LUX.[/quote]
You mean your SE LUX Premium :troutslap
Post 276888 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 21:38:42
Yeah that LOL!!
Post 276896 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 21:51:31
hmmm looks nice at the back to
Post 276897 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 21:53:32
but this colour me thinks
Post 276899 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 21:58:32
That was the colour that I nearly bought
Post 276900 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 21:58:58
very nice looking indeed
Post 276902 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 22:00:19
I am not keen on the new "melted" one.
Post 276905 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 22:05:38
[quote=T5ER;276897]but this colour me thinks[/quote]
Thats what happening to my one going to get the front and back done
Post 276906 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 22:06:52
[quote=volvokid;276905]Thats what happening to my one going to get the front and back done[/quote]
will be nice to see pics when its done mate
Post 276907 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 22:07:12
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276902]I am not keen on the new "melted" one.[/quote]
Na its horrible same with the new C30, did you know the C30 comes as standard with white alloys, what is it a bloody Honda?
Post 276910 by T5ER on 2009-12-21 22:08:56
:rice:
Post 276911 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 22:14:01
I'm going to wait till the warranty runs out first I know Volvo Germany covers Heico parts but I wouldn’t think the UK would, its bloody expensive stuff too. The remaps are 1450 euro so not bothering with that, but the exhaust is the same bloody price and I’ll need that.
Post 276913 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 22:15:54
[quote=T5ER;276910]:rice:[/quote]
Yeah exactly rite I seen a mint green one with the white wheels when I picked up my car and i was left with a bit of sick in my mouth.
Post 276926 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-21 23:03:17
[quote=volvokid;276911]I'm going to wait till the warranty runs out first I know Volvo Germany covers Heico parts but I wouldn’t think the UK would, its bloody expensive stuff too. The remaps are 1450 euro so not bothering with that, but the exhaust is the same bloody price and I’ll need that.[/quote]
Yeah but worth it to stand out. I will also have the nice exhaust. The engine note is too tinny.
Post 276927 by volvokid on 2009-12-21 23:19:14
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276926]Yeah but worth it to stand out. I will also have the nice exhaust. The engine note is too tinny.[/quote]
Yeah you can just make out the 5 pot, the car is so quite inside I dont even drive fast in it, its just a chilled out drive. Heico styling is brilliant for this car, do you want me to send you the price list for there stuff?
Post 276932 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-22 00:10:33
yeah - no harm in dreaming
Post 277029 by volvokid on 2009-12-22 16:10:55
I sent it to your hotmail account
Post 277051 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-22 17:29:29
Well - once my dream ride comes - I shall definately invest
Post 277095 by Storm-Troll on 2009-12-22 20:36:43
I have a few Heico Bits on my T5 but I think Ill have to keep adding them. see if I can find an S60 T5 Heico kit lol.... I like the look of the C70 one...
Post 277134 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-23 00:29:59
Deffo got my creative juices flowing...
Post 277266 by T5ER on 2009-12-23 21:50:35
[quote=Storm-Troll;277095]I have a few Heico Bits on my T5 but I think Ill have to keep adding them. see if I can find an S60 T5 Heico kit lol.... I like the look of the C70 one...[/quote]
like this ST
http://www.heicosportiv.de/frame-top.asp?lang=en
Post 277276 by Pliskin on 2009-12-23 23:25:25
The Heico piccies look the nuts but I wonder what kind of suspension mods have been carried out because I believe there is an inherent steering fault with the later C70 if you go anything bigger than seventeens.
I am running an 06 C70 T5 in silver and apart from the roof control unit throwing it's hand in (£400), thankfully under warranty it is a lovely relaxed drive.
I can't help noticing though when I get back in my 96 854 T5 auto the build quality is light years apart.
Post 277309 by Jimmie on 2009-12-24 10:13:50
If there was a fault with anything over 17inch why do they fit 18s as a factory fit extra?.
Personally i would say the build quality is better in the new C70+ interior wise than the old 850s "ie" better plastics
Post 277354 by Wobbly Dave on 2009-12-24 15:10:26
[quote=T5ER;277266]like this ST
http://www.heicosportiv.de/frame-top.asp?lang=en[/quote]
Linky is for the page header only.
Post 286990 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-05 16:10:29
[SIZE=5]Project Wobbly continues unabaited.[/SIZE]
Right - I am still not selling - so have decided to continue this thread as my own modifications project thread....
I think there must be something in the water in Shropshire.
Anyway I continue to spend, spend, spend - to bring you (& me) the best possible C70 as I see fit.
Purely debateable whether this aim will be achieved and I do have a serious online shopping habit.
Bought recently and fitted...
Shiny cap for the oil filler cap. Like a magpie I have fallen for more of PFVs/IPDs shiny tat!
Bought and still to fit...
Rob's ex (intercooler)
Samco sport hoses..
short shifter kit
Bluetooth integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
Ipod integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
HB3/9005 4300K HID kit for main beam.
H1 Osram Night Breakers for Fog lights.
Will someone take this credit card away?!!?!
Anyway it's my birthday next week and this is all the excuse I ever needed.
Still to do...
Refurb 19s (or flog 'em)
Data logging and final stage remap.
Software integration to show boost gauges and other telemetry on the Alpine unit display.
Will this make me more attractive to the opposite sex??
No.
Will anyone care that I have a 10yr old 130 THOUSAND MILE C70 with shiny bits in the engine bay?
No.
Should I stick the samco sport sticker somewhere prominent.
Forehead - definitely.
Views and abuse welcome. That's why I come here.
Post 287205 by smithy on 2010-02-06 12:43:49
[quote=Wobbly Dave;286990][SIZE=5]Project Wobbly continues unabaited.[/SIZE]
Right - I am still not selling - so have decided to continue this thread as my own modifications project thread....
I think there must be something in the water in Shropshire.
Anyway I continue to spend, spend, spend - to bring you (& me) the best possible C70 as I see fit.
Purely debateable whether this aim will be achieved and I do have a serious online shopping habit.
Bought recently and fitted...
Shiny cap for the oil filler cap. Like a magpie I have fallen for more of PFVs/IPDs shiny tat!
Bought and still to fit...
Rob's ex (intercooler)
Samco sport hoses..
short shifter kit
Bluetooth integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
Ipod integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
HB3/9005 4300K HID kit for main beam.
H1 Osram Night Breakers for Fog lights.
Will someone take this credit card away?!!?!
Anyway it's my birthday next week and this is all the excuse I ever needed.
Still to do...
Refurb 19s (or flog 'em)
Data logging and final stage remap.
Software integration to show boost gauges and other telemetry on the Alpine unit display.
Will this make me more attractive to the opposite sex??
No.
Will anyone care that I have a 10yr old 130 THOUSAND MILE C70 with shiny bits in the engine bay?
No.
Should I stick the samco sport sticker somewhere prominent.
Forehead - definitely.
Views and abuse welcome. That's why I come here.[/quote]
well you dont need to worry about the opposite sex because you have a misses ,with the 19s back on your car looks nice .but i have 1 question you are putting all this stuff on and remapping it etc ,when are you going to learn to drive it lol
its a joke dave ive seen your driving
Post 287207 by MIKESC70T5 on 2010-02-06 13:12:35
[quote=smithy;287205]well you dont need to worry about the opposite sex because you have a misses ,with the 19s back on your car looks nice .but i have 1 question you are putting all this stuff on and remapping it etc ,when are you going to learn to drive it lol
its a joke dave ive seen your driving[/quote]
I thought Dave was an experienced off roader lol :rally_dri
Post 287384 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-07 00:29:35
[quote=MIKESC70T5;287207]I thought Dave was an experienced off roader lol :rally_dri[/quote]
sure am! mind you the 2 experiences I have had - one over a hedge and the other spining out on a track day are more than enough for my lifetime.
I have the Ipod adapter now fitted - the lead comes up inside the arm rest which is pretty handy.
Sadly the BT handfree had to go back to Alpine as it was the wrong one.
It's OK Smithy - I can take the comment in the manner with which it was intended. See you all at the track ;)
Post 287583 by smithy on 2010-02-07 19:56:48
to be honest i cannot wait to see how the car goes with all the mods you have done it should go well just plant your foot mate and go for it it should be fast
Post 287822 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-08 17:13:09
well I too am looking for some better results - but cannot remove the major flaw in the plan - namely the big nut behind the steering wheel.
Post 287847 by smithy on 2010-02-08 18:04:57
[quote=Wobbly Dave;287822]well I too am looking for some better results - but cannot remove the major flaw in the plan - namely the big nut behind the steering wheel.[/quote]
lol you could grease the nut to make it more relaxed mate lol.if i was you mate just spin the tyres to get them warm before going on strip and go for it your car can take it with them mods mate .
Post 287857 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-08 18:32:04
cheers mate - no matter what I do - I always get far too excited when the lights change.
Post 292754 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-28 23:17:51
Daresay we should rename this - Wobbly's C70 development thread.
Ipod adapter was fitted for the Alpine Headunit - got a 16Gb 5th Gen Nano for my birthday 2 weeks ago. Very happy but search function via the display is slow. I also had to buy a Scorsche adapter so it can charge on the lower/newer 5 volt charge voltage.
Put the egg crate grill (the full detail is imminent once the 19s are repaired and returned).
Fitted the shiny new oil cap cover ages ago but today I also put in the
[LIST]
[*]Short shift kit - disappointed the brass bushes for the earlier M56 don't fit but short shift is a success and I like it.
[*]Samco sport hoses - except the bottom I/C which I will put in when I swap the I/C - fitted partly to indulge my inner chav but also think after 130K the old hoses were a bit soft.
[*]HB3/ 9005 HID kit for main beam. Very bright indeed. I am now officially outed: Bi-Xenon
[*]H3 Osram night breakers on the fogs - much better than the old ones - though not a perfect colour match.
[/LIST]Still more to come yet but here are the pics.
This also may be the first time you'll have seen the MY2003 front lamps.
Post 292757 by t5 pete on 2010-02-28 23:22:50
hey dave get some pics up what where your times last year at york
Post 292761 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-28 23:25:51
I don't remember but they were nothing to write home about. Photos got lost but now reattached
Post 292762 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-02-28 23:28:00
More tuning is yet to come and the bigger FMIC.
Post 292789 by smithy on 2010-03-01 08:37:11
well done mate with the shiny bits looking nice there
Post 294198 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-08 01:36:58
Well I did a mini Valet today and despite still being in her winter wellies - I still think she looks well?
I used carlack 68 degreaser under the bonnet (under side) and engine bay. Rinsed and then dressed with Aerospace 303 protectant.
Hand applied (no applicator used) one of my fav waxes (easy to use even in March!) -
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/chemical-guys-pete-39-s-53-paste-wax/prod_337.html
Post 294220 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-08 10:42:03
Images now posted!
Post 294870 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-11 01:40:46
I have to take my hat off to Tom @ HLM - the man has talent.
I have been waiting a while to get the newly acquired intercooler- born out of the accident that T5ROB had in January - installed.
Sometimes I think that maybe I should have had a go at getting it to fit, but given that it took Tom some hours with all the modern tools and a ramp to play with - I am glad I left it well alone, (Not that I am without talent when it comes to mechanicin' things)
There was some additional fabrication involved to get the thing squeezed it - but you can only tell by looking at the slight gap in the plastic fairing at the top to see that anything has happened.
Even managed to preserve the Air/Con and retain the plastic underfairing without too much plastic surgery.
Very cool job - quite literally.
We even found time to do a semi-scientific comparison of the manifold intake temps before and after, using the autologic.
Overall on the same air ambient temp (9.75 degrees C) - in the morning and then later in the afternoon, there was a 5 degree drop for siimilar acceleration in the same gear for the new intercooler.
Cruising temp was 2 degrees down on average.
The max possible temp seen was about 10 degrees lower on the newer.
However the new IC is far from light. It is anything but light!! I reckon this will help traction as the weight is forward of the front wheels! I am only guessing but I think it must be 3 or 4 times heavier than the OEM IC.
Credit where credit is due. Tom worked patiently and diligently to get the work done.
Top job from HLM again. Never let me down and the guys stayed on late to finish the rest of the service - and a big thanks for letting me use the wireless LAN to continue working.
Having driven her a few miles now - it just seems to be getting better and better. I feel sorry for the front tyres.
(sort of)
I would hope to see if the rolling road is complimentary about the intake temp drop.
Pic shows the new IC plumbed in just before putting the underguard back on. 19s next and some araldite. I have 120 decorative screws to glue in!! FFS!
Post 294880 by smithy on 2010-03-11 08:12:16
[quote=Wobbly Dave;294870]I have to take my hat off to Tom @ HLM - the man has talent.
I have been waiting a while to get the newly acquired intercooler- born out of the accident that T5ROB had in January - installed.
Sometimes I think that maybe I should have had a go at getting it to fit, but given that it took Tom some hours with all the modern tools and a ramp to play with - I am glad I left it well alone, (Not that I am without talent when it comes to mechanicin' things)
There was some additional fabrication involved to get the thing squeezed it - but you can only tell by looking at the slight gap in the plastic fairing at the top to see that anything has happened.
Even managed to preserve the Air/Con and retain the plastic underfairing without too much plastic surgery.
Very cool job - quite literally.
We even found time to do a semi-scientific comparison of the manifold intake temps before and after, using the autologic.
Overall on the same air ambient temp (9.75 degrees C) - in the morning and then later in the afternoon, there was a 5 degree drop for siimilar acceleration in the same gear for the new intercooler.
Cruising temp was 2 degrees down on average.
The max possible temp seen was about 10 degrees lower on the newer.
However the new IC is far from light. It is anything but light!! I reckon this will help traction as the weight is forward of the front wheels! I am only guessing but I think it must be 3 or 4 times heavier than the OEM IC.
Credit where credit is due. Tom worked patiently and diligently to get the work done.
Top job from HLM again. Never let me down and the guys stayed on late to finish the rest of the service - and a big thanks for letting me use the wireless LAN to continue working.
Having driven her a few miles now - it just seems to be getting better and better. I feel sorry for the front tyres.
(sort of)
I would hope to see if the rolling road is complimentary about the intake temp drop.
Pic shows the new IC plumbed in just before putting the underguard back on. 19s next and some araldite. I have 120 decorative screws to glue in!! FFS![/quote]
nice job there mate and to keep the aircon too a credit to hlm.mine was a bit different to fit because of all the custom piping and i decided to take the aircon out because i had no need for it .also i have a new pressy too a 19 row mocal oil cooler kit now just have to fit it lol.
Post 294887 by t5_monkey on 2010-03-11 09:13:07
Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?
On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?
Post 294890 by smithy on 2010-03-11 09:25:18
[quote=t5_monkey;294887]Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?
On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?[/quote]
it all depends how much boost you are running mate ,the more the boost the more heat the more you need a better i/c
Post 294899 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-11 10:38:26
[quote=smithy;294880]nice job there mate and to keep the aircon too a credit to hlm.mine was a bit different to fit because of all the custom piping and i decided to take the aircon out because i had no need for it .also i have a new pressy too a 19 row mocal oil cooler kit now just have to fit it lol.[/quote]
I used to use 13 row 1/2 bsp mocal when I used to offer the additional inline ATF cooler on automatics. 13 row just fits in the gap below the rad pack on the 850s. Good luck with that!
Post 294901 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-11 10:47:37
[quote=t5_monkey;294887]Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?
On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?[/quote]
Driveability has little to do with the FMIC IMHO. ARB, Drop links, suspension in combination with a good progressive remap.
I am only running 0.7 - 0.9 bar at WOT.
I am waiting on a man from the North and the data logger to see if we can get a bit more umph out.
I am pretty confident we can - 19T, race cat, induction kit, bigger FMIC and green injectors should allow us to go a bit further.
I have a standard T5 FMIC if you want it.
Forgot to say that we did pull a dead robin out the bottom of it - RSPB would not be impressed. So far that is
Volvo 3 - British Avine 0
Post 294907 by smithy on 2010-03-11 11:05:14
[quote=Wobbly Dave;294899]I used to use 13 row 1/2 bsp mocal when I used to offer the additional inline ATF cooler on automatics. 13 row just fits in the gap below the rad pack on the 850s. Good luck with that![/quote]
in the 940 i have loads of room to fit it noe no aircon
Post 296984 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-20 22:59:47
Difficult day trying to resolve some things on my snagging list.
For a while the "boot is open" light has been despite this being not true. I replaced the lock mech with a spare I had but still no joy - though the lock action is much improved. So today I replaced the loom with a spare from the boot lid I am selling. I was well chuffed to see the light go out - but now it will not work when the boot is open :slap:
Ok fair enough I thought.
I took the amplifier out to see if I could patch the badly corroded loom supplying the boot courtesy light - which has not worked for ages. Sadly it is beyond repair - the corrosion/shorting had gone all the way to the junction with the main loom so I was not prepared to carry on with that. So I just removed it.
I also needed to get rid of the SBS warning light - due to a faulty air bag in the shoulder of the passenger seat.
It's been there for ages. So I decided to take the warning light out. Did that and replaced it into the Lamdba light which has been missing since I bought the thing.
Lastly tried to fix the illumination lights for the headlight selector switch. Could I get the little b'stard light out - no could I like buggery!! so despite all usual efforts I couldn't tap them out. Got some small pliers to help and accidentally shorted the back of the switch and turned the whole car into a paper weight. Car would turn over but wouldn't fire!!This was further exacerbated by the fact that the car was blocking the driveway and I couldn't take the future MrsWobbly out for our scheduled social engagement. Took ages to find the right fuse in the dark. Looked through all the lighting fuses only to find eventually that it was the immobiliser fuse I had accidentally taken out.
Only once that was all working again - it was cold and dark by this time - the power antenna has stopped working so I will have to take the boot liner off again to see if I can fix it - even though I never listen to the radio. Must have disturbed the power to it when I moved the amp about.
Sometimes I wonder if it would just have been easier to live with these minor niggles.
Least I have no more warning lights on the dash - but it was such a palava. There were moments when I wondered if removing the SBS warning light would stop the engine from starting?? How insane is that?
I wont give up but fcuk me it was annoying at times!!! GRRR!
Post 297132 by volvomad on 2010-03-21 20:11:44
beautiful car mate. saw the pictures of yours on the North road up to Loch Carron. i live on the Isle of Skye and am a self employed carrier and I pass through there regularly. what a place to go to work!
right car in the right place.
Post 297176 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-03-21 22:01:59
[quote=volvomad;297132]beautiful car mate. saw the pictures of yours on the North road up to Loch Carron. i live on the Isle of Skye and am a self employed carrier and I pass through there regularly. what a place to go to work!
right car in the right place.[/quote]
I love it up there. Getting married near Inverness in October. Can't wait to go back. The C70 was born to drive on the highland roads - out of the way. No cops - no cars - no cameras!
Last time I was there - we did the whole of the Wester Ross route - took 172 miles to get to Ullapool from Inverness - which is only 50 miles as the crow flies.
On a good note I managed to get the power aerial working again - one of the connectors was a little loose.
Post 300998 by streaky744 on 2010-04-07 23:03:49
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276799]You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.[/quote]
so could you be tempted to sell this car at all for 3000 of the queens finest pounds?
Post 301028 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-04-08 03:17:17
I could be but not just right at this moment. The 19s have been fully refurbished - I had to glue in 120 decorative studs. I need 1 new spigot because 1 got lost in the refurb process (should have taken the off before hand) - and I need to replace one of the wheel centres because it fell out and I ran over it (a lot).
I am rolling the dice once more and have bought a replacement hands free to replace the broken one.
But think on this - by the time I do sell she will be better than ever.
Post 301181 by streaky744 on 2010-04-08 22:23:52
i'll keep pestering then as can't find a decent soft top in my price range.
if i have not found a car by the time you finally decide to sell please can i have first offer
i may consider upping the offer if it will bring the sale forward.
Post 301201 by Flatout Phil on 2010-04-09 00:08:26
[quote=Wobbly Dave;276636][SIZE=2]I have been developing and shaping this Silver C70 T5 for nearly 3 years.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Celebrate - as I am not selling her anymore!! LOL[/SIZE][/quote]
Well done on resisting the temptation!
:thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave:
Post 302910 by streaky744 on 2010-04-18 21:29:43
here is my weekly pester again.
still keeping her?
or should i up my bid to make it to tempting to turn down?
Post 302916 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-04-18 21:45:00
As tempting as it sounds, I'm afraid not. There are at least 3 people who have eyes on my car and it is very flattering. I am not selling just now. I don't have the spare cash to put into a new project/C70 cc coz I am getting married in October. Also I am really enjoying it.
The other bit of good news is that we did a compression test on the engine, when replacing the plugs (and 2 coil packs) - 120 psi even across all 5 which is a good confirmation about the health of the current block!
This last weekend I have put in a new handsfree kit. It is the same Sony Ericsson HCB-700 I had before. Probably coz it was cheap and I still had the loom to just wire it in. Very happy with that.
Also - I have just refreshed the part of the interior (new front seats with heater elements). This means that the niggly fault with SRS/SIPS airbag in the passenger seat is now resolved. I haven't as yet been able to work out why the heater elements don't appear to work yet but I will get them sorted soon. Finally after nearly 3 years of ownership I have a driver seat that breaks to allow people into the back on the O/S.
I also fixed the seat I removed - so that one works too. I have learned with some blood shed - how to repair the cables that control that action in C70 seats!!!
Post 304431 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-04-25 22:46:43
Few shots today now that the 19s are back on. Light was a bit funny at times but I hope you like them.
I spent most of yesterday finishing out a couple more panels to get rid of accumulated swirls. I then put down some extra protective layers
Bixenon - HIDs on show.
Post 304442 by Storm-Troll on 2010-04-25 23:46:02
very nice wobbles..
Post 304470 by Turkish on 2010-04-26 09:41:08
That really is a stunnin looking C70, really timeless.
Post 304481 by Wobbly Dave on 2010-04-26 10:24:11
Well I am looking into ways of getting a better start - lower profile tyres on the perfo 16s seems like a good plan to get my 3 10ths in the 60 ft.
or possibly light weight alloys with cut slicks.
Easily reversible - after all it is just a road car.
I was so happy yesterday that I detailed Ellen's Honda inside & out.
Post 304489 by Happygilmore78 on 2010-04-26 11:33:39
Boooootiful mate!!
Post 304514 by smithy on 2010-04-26 14:34:15
[quote=Wobbly Dave;304431]Few shots today now that the 19s are back on. Light was a bit funny at times but I hope you like them.
I spent most of yesterday finishing out a couple more panels to get rid of accumulated swirls. I then put down some extra protective layers
Bixenon - HIDs on show.[/quote]
your car looks the dogs dangles with them rims mate but keep the 16s for drag racing mate
Post 306933 by jdavis on 2010-05-07 17:25:10
car looks smart mate!
Post 354729 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-12 13:26:47
Ordered my Quaife ATB LSD today from Gearboxman - (www.gearboxman.co.uk). They are going to refurb the 2nd hand box & fit the ATB LSD. The M56 is bubblewrapped up & waiting to go. Should be good eh?
Post 354851 by t5 pete on 2011-01-12 21:40:17
It should deffinatly be different when giving it some dave it will be good to see the difference in 1/4 mile times
Post 354855 by S70T5Chris on 2011-01-12 21:46:39
I fitted my Quaife nearly 4 years ago now. I can still honestly say it's one of the best mods you could do to your T5.
Post 354860 by The Flying Moose on 2011-01-12 21:52:16
[quote=t5 pete;354851]It should deffinatly be different when giving it some dave it will be good to see the difference in 1/4 mile times[/quote]
Couldn't agree more with Pete, at least now you'll be warming up both those Michelin slicks on the warm up!
Post 354888 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-13 00:26:40
I certainly hope so as it not a cheap mod!!
Post 355521 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-17 00:46:55
Car recovered on Thursday :cry: (thanks AA) with a siezed Front O/S caliper. HLM supplied the bits & I got my hands dirty in the rain on Saturday - first time in a while. Also changed out the worn pads & front disks. So we are all good for another few years. Car turned 149000 today. Still goes like sh1t of a hot,greasy shovel.
Ordered the casing on the upgraded gearbox to be shot blasted - so will come back nice & shiny. God - I am so vain!!
Post 355523 by The Flying Moose on 2011-01-17 00:59:45
[quote=Wobbly Dave;355521]Car recovered on Thursday :cry: (thanks AA) with a siezed Front O/S caliper. HLM supplied the bits & I got my hands dirty in the rain on Saturday - first time in a while. Also changed out the worn pads & front disks. So we are all good for another few years. Car turned 149000 today. Still goes like sh1t of a hot,greasy shovel.
Ordered the casing on the upgraded gearbox to be shot blasted - so will come back nice & shiny. God - I am so vain!![/quote]
Sorry to hear the need to call out the Auto-mobile Association, never good. Its not just you though Dave I have had them out a few times albeit Tyre failure!
On a positive note Plenty of life in the old Girl yet! I hit 201K on the original engine in the 854 and was running perfectly. Should see another 100k out of her Dave.
Post 356929 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-27 12:12:17
Gearbox is finished & paid for (ouch!!). Looking towards a new DMF & clutch options. Any opinons?
Post 356930 by p fandango on 2011-01-27 12:23:33
LINK & 850R clutch
Post 357011 by smithy on 2011-01-27 20:33:17
[quote=Wobbly Dave;356929]Gearbox is finished & paid for (ouch!!). Looking towards a new DMF & clutch options. Any opinons?[/quote]
get in touch with ttv racing they did my flywheel on my 940 to take 850r clutch which is all fitted and you wont break that flywheel and i would go single mass not dual mate but they do both.
Post 357020 by p fandango on 2011-01-27 21:00:27
[quote=smithy;357011]get in touch with ttv racing[/quote]
thats who i linked to :wink:
Post 357024 by smithy on 2011-01-27 21:05:08
[quote=p fandango;357020]thats who i linked to :wink:[/quote]
ok mate sorry didnot see link but i would still go single mass though
Post 357503 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-31 14:44:37
Is the 850R clutch suitable for my application & what is the difference between it & the T5 clutch I have?
Also ttv racing - which is the better flywheel (bearing in mind I still want a driveable car at the end of the day). SMF or DMF?
Post 357526 by S70T5Chris on 2011-01-31 16:47:01
I swapped over to a SMF and 850R clutch a couple of years ago. The standard T5 clutch (which had done 5000miles max) was slipping at 375lb/ft. 850R clutch solved the problem and I'm now running a KKK24, not had it on dyno yet, so don't know what power/torque it is now. But can't imagine the torque will be much more than that, if any.
AFAIK the 850R clutch is as heavy duty as P1 clutches get. You can use a sachs 707 pressure plate with it, to get a higher clamping force(?).
You do lose a fair amount of refinement going over to a SMF from an 850 if i'm honest.
Having said all that, i'm not sure what the differences between ME7 and Pre ME7 if any.
Post 357529 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-31 17:18:45
[quote=S70T5Chris;357526]I swapped over to a SMF and 850R clutch a couple of years ago. The standard T5 clutch (which had done 5000miles max) was slipping at 375lb/ft. 850R clutch solved the problem and I'm now running a KKK24, not had it on dyno yet, so don't know what power/torque it is now. But can't imagine the torque will be much more than that, if any.
AFAIK the 850R clutch is as heavy duty as P1 clutches get. You can use a sachs 707 pressure plate with it, to get a higher clamping force(?).
You do lose a fair amount of refinement going over to a SMF from an 850 if i'm honest.
Having said all that, i'm not sure what the differences between ME7 and Pre ME7 if any.[/quote]
Vis-a-vis refinement - Do you mean that the power delivery becomes jerky or just that the clutch is heavier to use?
Post 357530 by S70T5Chris on 2011-01-31 17:33:04
[quote=Wobbly Dave;357529]Vis-a-vis refinement - Do you mean that the power delivery becomes jerky or just that the clutch is heavier to use?[/quote]
Actually one of the benefits is the clutch is super light, and a real pleasure to use. It's just not a smooth when engaging gear as it is standard with the DMF.
Post 357551 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-01-31 19:33:15
Having read around a bit more - as my GB is a later model of the M56 - with the internal slave cylinder - I believe that I already have a SMF - maybe not the lightened one. Just feel it is prudent to change the clutch & or flywheel when the gearbox is off.
Post 357557 by BruceT on 2011-01-31 19:45:52
As per Chris. My 850R clutch is lighter and easier to use than my old T5 clutch!
Post 357645 by lance on 2011-02-01 09:45:24
I cant say I have noticed much difference some 850s have heavy feeling clutchs some light.
Post 359327 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-02-09 12:43:58
I am going with a HD sachs organic centre plate & clutch cover plate - reinforce rivets & springs, as recommended by the guys that did my remap. It's a fast road set up rather than an out & out paddle clutch for racing. Heavy duty but still with the road worthy element included, rate to 500NM so it shouldn't slip.
It will be fitted at HLM on the week starting 21st Feb.
Still uming & arring about the flywheel. Already have a SMF.
Post 359328 by p fandango on 2011-02-09 12:46:08
[quote=Wobbly Dave;359327]Still uming & arring about the flywheel. Already have a SMF.[/quote]
while your doing all that & they've got the gearbox off you might as well do the lot & put a lightened one on, how much is it going to cost in the future to remove the gearbox again just to do the flywheel do it now while its off anyway
Post 359332 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-02-09 12:52:04
I looked at your link & I am baffled by the choice.
Post 359334 by p fandango on 2011-02-09 12:53:31
[quote=Wobbly Dave;359332]I looked at your link & I am baffled by the choice.[/quote]
to TTV? All i'd do is standard flywheel weight with a few kilo's off, that'll be more that enough to notice a difference
Post 359336 by The Flying Moose on 2011-02-09 13:00:37
Dave if you've got the gearbox off then you might as well replace the rear main seal if it has'nt already been done too.
Post 359347 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-02-09 13:38:52
[quote=The Flying Moose;359336]Dave if you've got the gearbox off then you might as well replace the rear main seal if it has'nt already been done too.[/quote]
I am certain the rear main seal will be done.
I am not changing the flywheel.
I don't have a racing engine that revs to over 8500K & just adding parts for the sake of it seems silly. If this was a full blow race engine then I could see the point. As it is the cost of getting this in is almost as much as the car is worth.
So long as the current FW is in good order - the benefits are outweighed by the cost.
Nah... gonna save my 400 quid & take the wife on holiday (as promised).
Still I am excited about the new GB.
Thanks as always for your input.
Post 362285 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-02-21 23:21:53
It's going in this week!!
Post 366364 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-13 23:16:39
Well it has been wee while since a full update.
I got a new half & half interior from Spesh - due to his C70 being demised by a Laguna.
The new gearbox, quaife LSD & performance clutch is in. The revamped gearbox is disappointing. I am not sure what happened - & after 2 weeks of trying to contact the gearboxman.co.uk concerning the refurbishment I have had no reply - despite follow up phone calls. I will persist. The gearbox feels notch & drops out of 2nd gear whilst decelerating under engine braking.
I have still to find a resolution for it. It doesn't do it everytime & it is irritating rather than dangerous.
Perhaps the worn bushings are not helping. I hope to visit my father soon who has promised to mill me some. The quaife diff however is brilliant. The pull around corners is substantial & immediate - understeer is almost eliminated. I am scared however that when grip is lost it will go in a big way. The clutch is very direct & needs more leg power than previous. When slipping it in reverse to get on the driveway it really stinks!! However I recognise this is a small price to pay given the higher clamping force. Getting used to the clutch is not made easier by the notchy 1st gear.
I have had a new DMF (dual mass flywheel) fitted on advice from Sachs in Germany. This should help dampen some of the wash back through the transmission. Sachs said that a SMF would almost certainly damage the engine - snap the crank.
Net result is a much faster car off the line. Whole thing seems a lot faster overall - like none of the power is being wasted. It is a real shame about the gearbox but until I have had full discussion with the firm in question - it is not possible to work out the root cause of the issues. Not very impressed with the after sales care. Given the budget involved this is not the last you will hear of this. I am not usually one for airing my grevancies online & I hope that all will come good in the end.
I am certain that these issues will not stop me getting a better launch & the box has improved since Hamish fitted it. First big test will be at Cadwell Park.
Hamish must be thanked for helping getting the box fitted with all the new parts. Stirling job as ever. Even cured my ARB clunk (IPD HD ARB fouling on the shield for the steering rack box).
Anyway - I cleaned her up today. I have also bought a rotary polisher & a De-ionising unit (to lessen the 300 PBM hard water we have here). Drying the car especially in the summer is a really pain due to excessive water spotting. Anyway 0 total dissolved solids here we come curteousy of a 11 gallon DI unit.
Post 366374 by Rnash2002 on 2011-03-14 07:12:49
looking very nice Dave,what was your old interior? full leather?
Post 366375 by JelT5 on 2011-03-14 07:42:53
Car looks great Dave. Very tidy mate :)
That's a real pain about the box though. I Hope you get a satisfactory response from the company in question. What is it with people and the lack of customer service when you hand over your hard earned?!
Post 366379 by smithy on 2011-03-14 08:33:37
sorry to here about your problems mate but at least you can drive her now when are you going to get the final custom remap on her ready for york i hope
Post 366397 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 10:53:42
[quote=Rnash2002;366374]looking very nice Dave,what was your old interior? full leather?[/quote]
old interior was full leather yes.
Post 366398 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 10:57:16
[quote=smithy;366379]sorry to here about your problems mate but at least you can drive her now when are you going to get the final custom remap on her ready for york i hope[/quote]
I am very much at the mercy of the guy in Sweden. I am hoping he will come over this year & we can finish the map off. Timetable is open wide.
Post 366413 by BlackBeast on 2011-03-14 12:43:38
[quote=Wobbly Dave;366364]
I have had a new DMF (dual mass flywheel) fitted on advice from Sachs in Germany. This should help dampen some of the wash back through the transmission. Sachs said that a SMF would almost certainly damage the engine - snap the crank.
[/quote]
Erm, HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA :nono:
Post 366433 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 16:38:52
So I take it then u have another view on harmonics?
Post 366434 by T5frankie on 2011-03-14 16:45:56
the dual mass flywheels were fitted to the v70 lsd versions and the awd's so they could cope with the extra stress that they created dont know wether i'd want an smf on mine
Post 366435 by smithy on 2011-03-14 17:02:12
[quote=leighkaicraigmia;366434]the dual mass flywheels were fitted to the v70 lsd versions and the awd's so they could cope with the extra stress that they created dont know wether i'd want an smf on mine[/quote]
if you get a ttv racing smf you would have no probs they also do dmf too
Post 366436 by T5frankie on 2011-03-14 17:04:25
[quote=smithy;366435]if you get a ttv racing smf you would have no probs they also do dmf too[/quote]
the advantage is that they rev quicker dont they being lighter?
Post 366437 by T5frankie on 2011-03-14 17:05:32
where are your nice wheels gone mate?
Post 366438 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 17:06:45
Exactly the purpose of the DMF is to dampen any vibrations and drivetrain feedback. Sachs also said that it was likely to create a lumpy idle if a SMF was used in this application, namely fast road n occasional track use. As I have no expertise in this area I have gone with that recommendation.
Its all pretty academic now
Post 366440 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 17:13:02
[quote=leighkaicraigmia;366436]the advantage is that they rev quicker dont they being lighter?[/quote]
That would matter if I was revving to 9k. I have a turbo that drives my engine so if I
had a highly strung race engine there would be a point to a lighter flywheel. Differences in this case I believe are negliable.
Post 366441 by smithy on 2011-03-14 17:13:26
i understand what they are saying because the dmf makes the car smoother due to weight and balance but a good smf would be alot lighter and cheaper for clutch upgrads.my 940 uses a dmf as standard but i stuck a smf due to the dmfs not taking the power ,now i have a ttv racing smf and 850r clutch no probs at all
Post 366442 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-14 17:18:49
Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse. Perhaps I am older and more doddery than most :P
Post 366443 by smithy on 2011-03-14 17:21:39
[quote=Wobbly Dave;366442]Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse.[/quote]
as long as it works and takes the power that is what counts mate now sort that map out
Post 366992 by jardon on 2011-03-17 14:34:19
[quote=Wobbly Dave;366442]Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse. [/quote]
Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.
I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.
Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.
Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.
Post 366997 by T5frankie on 2011-03-17 14:56:59
[quote=jardon;366992]Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.
I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.
Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.
Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.[/quote]
i wish i would have known this when my clutch and flywheel went i couldnt find a secondhand dmf anywhere so had to buy a complete engine with one attached could of got a brand new smf for alot less than i paid lol
Post 367015 by jardon on 2011-03-17 17:14:54
[quote=smithy;366443]as long as it works and takes the power that is what counts mate now sort that map out[/quote]
Having said all that in my last post - I agree with Smithy, enjoy it.
Post 367106 by smithy on 2011-03-18 11:01:27
[quote=leighkaicraigmia;366997]i wish i would have known this when my clutch and flywheel went i couldnt find a secondhand dmf anywhere so had to buy a complete engine with one attached could of got a brand new smf for alot less than i paid lol[/quote]
if you would of asked before you looked for a dmf i would of told you to get an 850 smf and 850r clutch mate but aslong as you are sorted that is what counts
Post 367392 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-19 23:58:20
[quote=jardon;366992]Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.
I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.
Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.
Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.[/quote]
I appreciate your input.
I am quite literally still getting to grips with the ATB. I will say that the assistance it provides is very smooth, maybe not as hardcore as some may wish. I certainly wouldn't want a paddle clutch within the realms of my plans - far too harsh.
I realise the DMF is a road based compromise but it was one I was prepared to make for sake of smoothness. It is at the end of the day stil the daily drive - with occasional track use.
Post 368083 by Engineer on 2011-03-23 21:07:53
[quote=Wobbly Dave;366440]That would matter if I was revving to 9k. I have a turbo that drives my engine so if I
had a highly strung race engine there would be a point to a lighter flywheel. Differences in this case I believe are negliable.[/quote]
Not so Dave check out MOI ...............
Post 368084 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-03-23 21:11:46
Moi as in the french me? Engineer have you gone all pretentious on me? LOL.
Details, details...
Post 374306 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-04-25 21:25:22
Just thought I would post this as I am missing the C70 which is still sans gearbox.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8A5TKrs7e8w[/ame]
Think she suprised as few people that day.
Post 374314 by p fandango on 2011-04-25 21:31:38
[quote=Wobbly Dave;374306]Just thought I would post this as I am missing the C70 which is still sans gearbox.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8A5TKrs7e8w
Think she suprised as few people that day.[/quote]
i thought they were powering up the fan, didn't realise your car was running its too quiet lol
Post 374318 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-04-25 21:37:10
This was Claymore's specialist place over near Shrewbury.
Granted standing still at tick over she is quieter than a D5 (58dB).
Post 374320 by p fandango on 2011-04-25 21:39:44
[quote=Wobbly Dave;374318]Granted standing still at tick over she is quieter than a D5 (58dB).[/quote]
i meant on the power-run, as i said i thought it was the fan until your car moved after they backed off lol
Post 374323 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-04-25 21:43:34
If it was that quiet why was the mike on my phone clipping out!!
Post 374346 by p fandango on 2011-04-25 22:11:56
[quote=Wobbly Dave;374323]If it was that quiet why was the mike on my phone clipping out!![/quote]
just listened to it again, sorry it does just sound like the fan's on overdrive
Post 374394 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-04-25 23:35:22
That's what she sounds like but you cannot tell that well with the poor sound quality.
Post 374417 by Happygilmore78 on 2011-04-26 10:17:44
Ahhh, the silver bullet - love that car!
Post 374431 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-04-26 11:57:34
Gearbox/ATB project progress is slow but steady. I haven't said a great deal as things were still a bit up in the air, but this is getting somewhere now.
As I may have hinted before there is a problem with the refurbished box. HLM have dropped & returned both original & refurbished M56 boxes to Hertfordshire. As the firm in question did not fit the gearbox the extent of their warranty was only within the box itself. I can understand it but it does mean paying for the 2nd drop.
I must say a big thanks to StormTroll for picking them up.
I appreciate that the silver bullet will be getting a bit under foot in Bromsgrove - Hamish has been very patient & understanding (rare I know :P ).
I have finally spoken to the gearbox specialist, who thinks he knows what the issue is. There is some "float" on the selector for 2nd. To me that sounds like there is some play in the selector fork that could be rattling around & knocking it out of gear. I am no specialist but I heard a similar story on certain Ford gearboxes.
He will inspect my original box with a view to either repairing the selector in the newly refurbished box - swapping the ATB quaiffe diff into my original or making a good box out of both.
In hindsight - something at least I can pass on - M56 parts are not available anymore. Volvo don't sell 'em - so what ever box you choose for such an upgrade/mod will always bear some risk. I think the fact that the new gearbox was running the wrong oil in it goes some way to explaining the wear. So if you do buy a 2nd hand box ensure it has the genuine oil specified for the box. Without the precise history of the donor box - I guess it is difficult to say.
Just thinking out loud - My original gearbox has been well used, so ending up with it would be a known quantity but in the end with 150K of driving, there is an element of compromise. How much long will it last? There again the new box could last longer be less worn in other areas. I just hope something good will come out of this.
The perfect fix would be a brand new gearbox - but I cannot justify this on 11 year old C70, plus I would like to remain married.
Just be aware when you buy a 2nd hand box - even if you are getting it rebuilt - there are no new internals available to buy. So perhaps buying 2 cheap ones is the way to go?
I will find out later in the week what the prognosis is. Safe enough to say no draggy for me this weekend.
Post 374447 by Happygilmore78 on 2011-04-26 13:06:43
No Draggy :( but I suppose you could always go 'in' drag?
Cheers for the info, lets hope my box lasts a bit longer, as I dont fancy my chances at picking a sweet one from the sounds of it.
Lets hope your all sorted soon enough buddy
Post 381181 by jardon on 2011-05-28 13:07:05
As this is your build thread I thought it would be useful to share some of my ME7 tuning experience with regard to fuelling. Just over a year ago Marco let me know that my green injectors were max'd out from 5000rpm - not an ideal state of affairs for injector longevity or if there was a need for enrichment at high rpms for engine protection.
So I fitted some VXR injectors and hoped for the best - they ran OK with the existing map but perhaps a bit rougher due to the ecu not having proper control on over-run etc. I didn't check injector opening times with these fitted until about a month ago when Tim fitted my new intercooler, MAF to turbo pipe and Walbro pump. The injector duty cycle dropped when we fitted the higher flowing pump but increased to above and beyond it's previous value when we fitted the cooler/pipe - at 100% from around 5000 rpm again (more airflow=more fuel flow).
So back to the drawing board - I fitted some RC Engineering 650cc injectors last week and Marco (MTE) updated the map for those (also taking advantage of the extra cooling/flow by adding more ignition advance). Now, even with increased airflow (and therefore more demand for fuel) the injector duty cycle never rises above 80-85% - a much healthier situation. Also, as the ECU is now running injectors that it's actually mapped for I have less popping/banging on over-run and smoother operation overall.
The issue is that pre-facelift ME7 cars (including yours Dave) have static fuel pressure of 3.8 bar rather than rising rate. When on boost most turbo cars have a means of increasing fuel pressure to keep fuel flow up (ecu controlled on later ME7 cars). At 1.4 bar of manifold pressure I have 3.8-1.4=2.4 bar fuel pressure - hopeless!! You cannot rebuild the fuel system on these cars to increase pressure so your options to keep injector duty cycle sensible are to fit a higher flowing pump and/or bigger injectors.
Clearly at low levels of performance you wouldn't need to worry about it but if you are going to take advantage of the 19t to it's fullest greens will be static (open 100% of the time) from around 5000 rpm. Log your injector opening times to be safe and pop them into an injector duty cycle calculator like this one: http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-idc.htm
You can log them with an ELM327 type tool or VCT (or any datalogger).
NOT an issue for facelifted ME7/ME9 cars or pre-ME7 - just an idiosyncrasy of early ME7 vehicles.
Post 381307 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-05-28 22:38:57
Part of my development process is to get a full data logger. Thanks for the heads up on the injectors. I do have the greens. Are you basically saying these are not going to be good enough? Do you also believe that my standard Volvo Fuel pump is unable to provide the necessary fueling?
Post 381344 by jardon on 2011-05-29 00:36:23
[quote=Wobbly Dave;381307]Part of my development process is to get a full data logger. Thanks for the heads up on the injectors. I do have the greens. Are you basically saying these are not going to be good enough? Do you also believe that my standard Volvo Fuel pump is unable to provide the necessary fueling?[/quote]
As you are running similar hardware I think it's likely you may encounter similar issues. I never had driveability problems with the injectors running flat out but I wasn't happy to knowingly stress them to the point of failure ie: I may have got away with it for some time but who knows. Are you running an uprated intercooler and full exhaust? My 19t probably does flow more air than yours as it's ported and has a clipped turbine - but Marco said it wasn't flowing a lot more. I would log the injector opening times and plug them into that calculator before buying new ones. Your injector duty will rise as you increase boost from the 0.9 bar you run now because you flow more air AND reduce net fuel pressure at the same time. You have my number if you want to talk it through.
Post 381520 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-05-29 21:09:59
Yes I have the intercooler that came out of T5Rob's ex-850 before he made it into a compact. I have a ferrita downpipe with the race cat & a miltec 2 & 3/4 SS cat back. Will call you soon & chat.
Post 381574 by jardon on 2011-05-29 22:21:08
Sounds good to me. All my injector opening times have been logged at Tims using his VCT. I have an ELM327 tool and softloader which allow a lot of logging but I'm struggling to make the injector opening time part work. What are you going to use?
Post 381579 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-05-29 22:23:33
Don't know yet - Hamish promised me something as part of the package.
Post 382083 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-05-30 21:54:41
I am interested in doing a reverse intercooler pipework for the ME7 engine. I know Rnash did one with rubber piping over the top of the block but I would prefer to use a solid pipe as per the IPD kit. I don't want to spend 400 dollars to import it only to throw half the kit away. For once I would like to do a mod that cost less than 100 quid.
Any ideas or advice?
Do certain ME7 phase 1 cars already have it as standard? I seem to remember looking at the S60R & seeing that the pipe for that engine goes the other way around.
don't really care about the hear rising theory - just that the spool up has to be quicker based on the shorter distance??
Post 382085 by p fandango on 2011-05-30 21:56:40
i think theirs a couple of sensors mounted in the lower pipe which might take some working out
Post 382101 by jardon on 2011-05-30 22:21:33
I have never considered reverse intercooler pipework but my turbo spools up quickly - all down to BCS duty at low rpm. Also, my IATs are below ambient at WOT with the Aquamist on. Not saying don't do it but your turbo should spool very quickly with that exhaust and sufficient actuator pretension/BCS duty. I guess if it can be done cost effectively we will benefit from your experience - it would be one of those mods I would datalog before and after to see the effect on MAF, IAT and boost profile. Are you ever near Swansea?
Post 382112 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-05-30 22:37:48
Sadly not near Swansea. I will get my actuator checked next time I am in Bromsgrove. My 19T is getting on a bit now (about 100K old).
Just thought if I could get a nominal improvement for minimal investment - I would have to chop the plastic pipe just before the sensor on the ETM side. As with all things I want to do a nice job on it. I am thinking the pipes will be similar to S60R
Post 395441 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-16 23:44:03
Small mod today. I bought >>this<< a while ago but never got around to fitting it.
I am not entirely sure as now everytime I accelerate - the noise is transmitted through the firewall. Sounds very aggressive inside the cabin. The noise is not audible on normal cruise, but it does sound through on gentle acceleration - hmm not sure. The mechanical advantage is quite minimal - the old one is not that badly worn.
Perhaps I am getting too old for the really noisy stuff?
Post 395442 by AndysR on 2011-07-16 23:48:20
Standard or the polybush type?
Post 395446 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-17 00:02:53
It looks like a standard part that has been filled with additional resin. The IPD picture is actually the standard part. It is defo not a polybush type. I will take a photo & post tomorrow.
Post 395448 by jardon on 2011-07-17 00:14:56
If there's no gain then the noise isn't worth it I guess. Does the gear change feel more positive? My top mount big bush is poly and both the lower transmission bushes are too - difficult to say if that caused more nvh as we solid mounted the O/S engine and subframe mounts at the same time. Feels great when pressing on and the small increase in noise is not an issue. Totally subjective though.
Post 395451 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-17 00:21:22
I think any gains will be entirely in my own mind - IPD stuff I have found in the past is not always as good as they would have you believe. RAM air kit, HD BCS & HD ARB drop but to mention a few.
I will give this new part a month & see how we go. I have been resistant in the past to fitting polybush top mount due to the extra noise. I have the upgraded volvo one - but it seems to be getting quite badly compressed. I will see if the quarter mile is reduced next weekend.
Post 395454 by t5_monkey on 2011-07-17 00:33:17
When I changed my gearbox linkage to poly... traction was a lot better. Incidentally good dampers seemed to help a fair bit too.
I think you could get more on the launch, esp if your tramp and torque wind up in the mounts is less with a polybush... we were level pegging until 3rd (when yours sailed away!) at York ... and you have an LSD :)
Post 395457 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-17 00:38:10
Does anyone know if the lower mount is available in poly form over this side of the pond?
You are referring to this right, monkey man?
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4888/8k0140-ipd-hd-polyurethane-transmission-torque-mount
Post 399386 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 02:29:54
Well I have been tinkering again.
Bought a second hand top pipe (usually runs from the top of the FMIC to the ETM). Cut & shut job - I did try moving the holes but it was too much hassle - so I have reglued the saddle.
Main restriction on the project was to retain the sensors in an air tight position.
I took the end part of the tube - cut out the U tube bit & reglued it to make sure I had good purchase for the silicone pipe.
Next I got a generic 57mm IC kit off ebay. I used 1 90 degree & 2 45 degree tubes - one which I cut down a bit to get the right length.
I started in the light - but by the end it was quite dark. I re-used the 90 degree on the modified ETM pipe to go downwards to the bottom of the FMIC using the existing pipe & coupler.
Internal diameters have not changed significantly. Clearances on inlet manifold & top of the block were spot on - though I did reverse the top mount bolt as that was kinda close. New top pipe is very solid & of course very shiny!! Overall distance reduced by around 50 cm in terms of air travel. I measured the stock setup & it was about 2m not including the FMIC.
I feel very chuffed - in a sorta pioneering way. Hamish is not going to reciprocate but I don't care. :P
A few teething issues to resolve (the 90 degree silicone pipe is a little slack on 1 junction - & it blew off under full load) but it does work & only time (1/4 mile time) will see if it was worth the bother. Still it looks the dog's danglies and by my standards relatively cheap - I think it will come in at around 100 quid.
What do you lot think?
Post 399401 by jardon on 2011-07-29 08:47:39
Nice work and looks neat - 0.5m sounds like a worthwhile saving. I started a fuel pump swap in daylight recently but ended up ferreting around in the dark with a large torch in my mouth. Sort out your 90 degree bend and enjoy.
Post 399415 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 10:35:49
The other thing I forgot to say is that there is virtually no silicone hose in the system - so less elastic flex.
Post 399420 by AndysR on 2011-07-29 11:11:35
Looks good, smart work.
Post 399428 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 11:29:28
The only reason that the 90 degree pipe blew of was because I re-used a pipe that had been stretched over the top IC inlet. I knew it was a risk but trying to keep the costs down I thought it was worth a go. Hey ho. I have ordered a new 90 degree bend that should fit perfectly. Only problem is I am impatient & find it irritating to have to wait.
Post 399429 by p fandango on 2011-07-29 11:44:46
[quote=Wobbly Dave;399415]The other thing I forgot to say is that there is virtually no silicone hose in the system - so less elastic flex.[/quote]
you've got to be running some serious boost to get flex out of 3ply silicone
Post 399439 by T5frankie on 2011-07-29 12:33:00
looks good dave but is it enough to catch me lol
Post 399459 by t5_monkey on 2011-07-29 13:17:47
[quote=Wobbly Dave;395457]Does anyone know if the lower mount is available in poly form over this side of the pond?
You are referring to this right, monkey man?
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4888/8k0140-ipd-hd-polyurethane-transmission-torque-mount[/quote]
that's the one!
Post 399600 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 22:31:43
I have fixed my little niggle. I cut the OEM vertical pipe down and paired it with the last 90 solid pipe I had with the kit.
I glued & clamped the cut pipe (as it no longer had a knurled end) - determined that it wouldn't budge.
And yes frank - I will be quicker ;)
Also the route is now a little shorter & smoother.
Post 399601 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 22:33:23
Yes, pedro - but over time they do get softer.
Post 399606 by Jamest5r on 2011-07-29 22:47:22
Good job Dave, look's really nice, the top pipe would look the nuts if you could get it done in one whole section would finish your engine bay off perfect :)
Post 399616 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 23:14:11
Well I asked IPD if they would sell their top pipe to me separately & they said no & wasn't about to spend $400 to just bin half the kit. However I am please with my first attempt. If anyone knows someone that could make up a pipe & still make clearance & keep it shiny & cost less than 40 quid then I am all ears.
Post 399636 by Jamest5r on 2011-07-29 23:37:25
Radtec in Cannock, just take them your template/pipework and they will make it for you, as usual ask Smithy to call them for you and arrange it he know's the owner(Keith). That's where im getting mine done all in one piece so no leaks at 1.7bar :)
Post 399645 by Jamest5r on 2011-07-29 23:49:17
Can't find a better pic at the moment but you get the idea...
Post 399654 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-29 23:55:03
Do you know how much that would be approx for the top pipe?
Lets see first if it is worth the effort.
Post 399660 by Jamest5r on 2011-07-30 00:00:58
[quote=Wobbly Dave;399654]Do you know how much that would be approx for the top pipe?[/quote]
Ill pm you Smithy's number, he's starting work at midnight so give him a while to get into his run and im sure he would love a chat for an hour or so :)
Post 399663 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-30 00:04:07
I will stick it under my hat & wait to see if this development is worth the extra investment.
Post 399831 by lance on 2011-07-30 15:26:53
Good to see you and the beast again earlier.
Post 399974 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-31 00:33:00
It was lovely to see you too - & I am loving the new V50 T5 - still I think it needs the rear spoiler to set it off proper like.
Post 399975 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-31 00:38:37
TORQUE app for my Samsung Galaxy S II (running Andriod 2.1) - £2.49. Wireless bluetooth OBDII interface port jobby - 16 quid.
Being able to see real time telemetry & data log it & not have to stick in a stupid boost gauge - PRICELESS
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay-ZvTn3fLo"]Bit of a boring techie vid[/ame] - but it does show what I am getting.
ps - I just now need to modify the ODBII port itself so I can put the arm rest down. I will probably rotate it by 90 degrees so the adaptor can lie flat.
Post 400229 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-07-31 23:24:12
My modified ETM pipe came unglued today - so I wasn't happy. Sanded it all down again - reglued & pop-rivet it! It ain't going anywhere now (I hope #gulp#).
Post 400304 by Haizum74 on 2011-08-01 15:05:44
[quote=Wobbly Dave;399975]TORQUE app for my Samsung Galaxy S II (running Andriod 2.1) - £2.49. Wireless bluetooth OBDII interface port jobby - 16 quid.
Being able to see real time telemetry & data log it & not have to stick in a stupid boost gauge - PRICELESS
Bit of a boring techie vid - but it does show what I am getting.
ps - I just now need to modify the ODBII port itself so I can put the arm rest down. I will probably rotate it by 90 degrees so the adaptor can lie flat.[/quote]
Which bluetooth adaptor did you get?
Post 400315 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-01 16:39:19
its the same one shown in the YouTube vid - >>Google Shopping<< it has a blue & yellow front.
So easy to use. Yes there is a small time lag in the app/network connection - but the gauges all have peak reading indicators so you can always review. I have yet to explore the data log & graphing tech yet - but it is coming straight from the ECU - so there is no doubt to the accuracy - as this is what the car is seeing.
Haven't used the fault codes.
My adaptor also came with CD rom software to install into you laptop (yet to be explored).
Avon park did not mind me having the sucker mounted phone holder either & even if they did I could run the app with the phone in the glove box. I don't actually need to see the numbers.
App also allows you to set up car profiles so that you can put in Kerbside weight etc & it will calculate power figures, 0-60 times & 1/4 mile. For now I will use book figures - 1435KG plus 100KG for the Wobble Meister
It also has fault code reading capabilities.
Raw data screen shows all the numeric telemetry even though the text is a tad small. Units can be changed to suit.
IATs, Boost, MAF, Timing adv - too many to list.
Perhaps a wired connection would be quicker? but the bluetooth is hassle free.
First proper test will be on 21st at Santa Pod.
Post 401427 by jardon on 2011-08-04 22:03:10
Nice one. I need to get an Android phone. Published weights may be unreliable - I took mine to a weighbridge and got 1740kg (accurate to within 10kg) with me in it (75kg). Thats significantly more than quoted elsewhere. My local council refuse facility have the nearest weighbridge and it's worth tracking yours down if you are going to use the "road dyno" part of the software.
Post 401455 by Dave86 on 2011-08-04 22:53:27
Bought one that look exactly the same off ebay for about £13, it works although not too well with torque dunno whether its my phone or the adaptor. it was telling me i was boosting to 1.4 bar when my boost gauge was reading 0.7. The car hasn't been mapped so one of them is wrong lol.
Know what u mean about the arm rest though. Oh and don't start the car with the adaptor plugged in mine throws a paddy and won't start for 5 mins.
Post 401495 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-05 01:17:25
Well I have had a right battle to get the glued part of the pipe to work. I used araldite & 4mm pop rivets to support the glue & it was still pushing out some oil. So it has come off again & this time I have melted the join together using a soldering iron. If it were not for the bloody sensors I would use a 70 - 60 right angle reducer in silicon & a straight alu pipe (both of which I have). Getting a precise seal on the sensor holes without being able to use some form of welding - I am not that confident of its longevity. I think we will be on either the original setup or version 4 before long.
Post 402458 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 00:44:59
Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.
Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.
I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.
On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.
The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.
Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!
I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.
I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.
I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).
I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.
Post 402459 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 00:48:58
To gain the 40 NM for 1000 revs I don't think would sit well for longevity - but it is an interesting exercise to see if the ME7 would sustain without fault the use of a bleed valve.
All runs BTW were done in 4th gear.
Post 402468 by Dave86 on 2011-08-09 07:27:33
Looking good mate apart from your gearbox woes, certainly producing a fair old bit of power keep up the good work
Post 402494 by smithy on 2011-08-09 11:55:16
nice and that is what you need in 2nd gear and 3rd just need to learn how to drive it and control the power now.nice work hamish and dave.
Post 402548 by T5frankie on 2011-08-09 17:17:45
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402458]Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.
Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.
I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.
On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.
The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.
Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!
I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.
I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.
I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).
I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.[/quote]
excellent Dave if a little sneaky lol although still down on torque compared to mine :hidesbehi
Post 402563 by siamblue on 2011-08-09 18:38:52
Sorry to hear about that Dave, but another car breaks after being on the rollers, i am sure you will have good after care though.. the manual boxes are normally very tough on these cars..
Gary
Post 402578 by jardon on 2011-08-09 19:15:46
What have Gearboxman been doing - just supplying a refurbed box or fitting your diff? Is it time to ask them for a refund or payment towards the drop/refit?
Nice to see you working on that map - it's hard to know whether the extra torque would significantly shorten the engine/transmission life. Exposure to "hard driving" will for sure - it's how the extra lbft are used I suspect that determines wear/failure.
The torque spike with the bleed valve is not desirable - if you want to run 1.4 bar then the ECU/BCS needs to be in control. That increase in torque should be running out to ~5000 rpm but the ECU is expecting 1.2 bar and seeing 1.4 - I suspect the ECU is pulling timing and thats why the increase is transient. Interesting experiment though. I have used an MBC to limit boost when my BCS has been playing up but not the other way around (in parallel with the BCS).
Nice IAT's - the intercooler seems happy even on a dyno.
Post 402616 by Volvostorm on 2011-08-09 20:31:43
What is happening to your gearbox to make the noise?
and what are they going to do to fix it?
Post 402634 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 21:06:36
[quote=siamblue;402563]Sorry to hear about that Dave, but another car breaks after being on the rollers, i am sure you will have good after care though.. the manual boxes are normally very tough on these cars..
Gary[/quote]
just to get the time line straight - the gearbox breakdown & the dyno run were not related in any way.
Post 402642 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 21:17:34
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402634]just to get the time line straight - the gearbox breakdown & the dyno run were not related in any way.[/quote]
As far as the gearbox goes I have contacted the OFT and will follow their guidelines & due process within the bounds of consumer law. I will make best efforts to recover consequential losses & give the service provider the opportunity to fix the fault.
Jardon - I paid for a refurb & LSD fitting. The March selector fork fault was resolved. This new issue is a different problem. HLM recon a bearing has failed or is faulty. I have spoken to CTS and they have agreed to take the box back.
The strip has begun today. There will be a delay as I need to get a letter to them detailing what I expect them to do.
I just want what I paid for in the first place.
Post 402649 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 21:31:29
[quote=jardon;402578]What have Gearboxman been doing - just supplying a refurbed box or fitting your diff? Is it time to ask them for a refund or payment towards the drop/refit?
Nice to see you working on that map - it's hard to know whether the extra torque would significantly shorten the engine/transmission life. Exposure to "hard driving" will for sure - it's how the extra lbft are used I suspect that determines wear/failure.
The torque spike with the bleed valve is not desirable - if you want to run 1.4 bar then the ECU/BCS needs to be in control. That increase in torque should be running out to ~5000 rpm but the ECU is expecting 1.2 bar and seeing 1.4 - I suspect the ECU is pulling timing and thats why the increase is transient. Interesting experiment though. I have used an MBC to limit boost when my BCS has been playing up but not the other way around (in parallel with the BCS).
Nice IAT's - the intercooler seems happy even on a dyno.[/quote]
I wouldn't want to run that much boost on a old unforged engine - it was just an experiment. It wasn't so much a spike more a bubble & yes I was very happy with the AIT & AFRs - its a great map - smooth powerful & prolonged.
Post 402690 by jardon on 2011-08-09 22:35:08
Feel for you Dave - are these boxes rebuildable? I'm not aware that new parts are available. A good known used one may be another option if Gearboxman are struggling. The tolerances on bearings and gear mesh are critical and swapping gear sets between casings may not be successful. Was the noise related to wheel speed or engine speed?
Maybe the long term plan could involve a fresher engine or forged rebuild? Note I say long term. A stock engine and transmission will sustain 500nm and I'd bet even more if not too low down - probably the sensible max for a 19t.
Post 402704 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 23:12:05
Well during the 2nd rebuild during March/April - he had 2 boxes to work from to make 1 good one. Bearing should be available & should have been replaced if worn. That's what I paid for.
In any case if it was not possible to do the work under warranty then he should have said. Any way that is not my concern.
The 1982 Sales of Goods & Services act - says "Reasonable skill & care". I will follow the guidelines & the protocols of the act to seek a suitable resolution. Whilst this is frustrating I cannot afford to abandon the gearbox.
I am not sure about forging a new engine. I have just bought S40 for Ellen. I may be able to save enough to get a new engine but without spending 7 - 8K on a proper race engine I think it will be difficult to achieve a good enough return.
Post 402710 by Jamest5r on 2011-08-09 23:28:54
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402704]Well during the 2nd rebuild during March/April - he had 2 boxes to work from to make 1 good one. Bearing should be available & should have been replaced if worn. That's what I paid for.
In any case if it was not possible to do the work under warranty then he should have said. Any way that is not my concern.
The 1982 Sales of Goods & Services act - says "Reasonable skill & care". I will follow the guidelines & the protocols of the act to seek a suitable resolution. Whilst this is frustrating I cannot afford to abandon the gearbox.
I am not sure about forging a new engine. I have just bought S40 for Ellen. I may be able to save enough to get a new engine but without spending 7 - 8K on a proper race engine I think it will be difficult to achieve a good enough return.[/quote]
Sorry to hear about your gearbox woes wobbly, but nice figures on the rollers :)
You dont need to spend 7-8k for a decent engine...1k for rods/pistions, 1k for the work/belts/etc/etc simples :)
Post 402713 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 23:35:43
So if I pass you a 2nd hand engine & 2K you'd be able to make one? Hmm - I am a bit skeptical. Who you using for that?
Post 402717 by The Flying Moose on 2011-08-09 23:40:06
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402713]So if I pass you a 2nd hand engine & 2K you'd be able to make one? Hmm - I am a bit skeptical. Who you using for that?[/quote]
Easily for 2k Dave, damn you could have the thing removed, rebuilt and re-fitted for 2k.
Post 402719 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 23:42:48
That wouldn't include any headwork though.
Post 402720 by The Flying Moose on 2011-08-09 23:45:13
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402719]That wouldn't include any headwork though.[/quote]
Even the head isnt alot, £30 for a skim £30 for genuine gasket kit and new valve stem seals, £2.50 per valve to be grinded.
Thats only £110 for practically a fully rebuilt head.
Post 402725 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-09 23:55:16
I will see what Hamish has to say.
Post 402745 by jardon on 2011-08-10 09:50:29
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402719]That wouldn't include any headwork though.[/quote]
If I was replacing or rebuilding my engine I would get Tim to flow the head - takes a fair bit of time but results are worth it.
If you have decent compression across all cylinders then the engine isn't "old" anyway. Mine has done 110000 miles and Joules was running the HLM hybrid with 500nm at >200000 miles on a stock engine. The things that tend to pop are rods on older cars with high boost at low rpm or pistons burning if running too lean. I don't see that either of these is a risk for your engine if you wanted to run a lot more torque - the transmission maybe but not the engine. Mine ran at 1.5 bar for a few months with a failing BCS.
If anything bad happens to mine and I have spare cash I will fit whatever's needed for silly torque (rods and pistons) and have the head flowed. I'd bank on ~£2000 - £3000 as depending on what you replace. If I have no cash I will just fit a known good used engine.
Post 402770 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 12:43:51
Nah - I think I need to stop chasing the envelope & enjoy the car for what it is - namely one of the fastest phase 1's in the country.
Gonna get the front bumper sprayed in again & I have found a man to make my RIP kit out into solid pieces.
book some track days & watch you lot eat my dust ;)
Post 402771 by siamblue on 2011-08-10 12:59:13
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402725]I will see what Hamish has to say.[/quote]
You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.
Gary.
Post 402774 by jardon on 2011-08-10 13:12:31
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402770]Nah - I think I need to stop chasing the envelope & enjoy the car for what it is - namely one of the fastest phase 1's in the country.
Gonna get the front bumper sprayed in again & I have found a man to make my RIP kit out into solid pieces.
book some track days & watch you lot eat my dust ;)[/quote]
As long as you are happy with it Dave then I'd leave it as is.
Post 402776 by hamish on 2011-08-10 13:26:17
[quote=The Flying Moose;402720]Even the head isnt alot, £30 for a skim £30 for genuine gasket kit and new valve stem seals, £2.50 per valve to be grinded.
Thats only £110 for practically a fully rebuilt head.[/quote]
You are joking aren't you ?
Post 402777 by hamish on 2011-08-10 13:27:46
[quote=siamblue;402771]You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.
Gary.[/quote]
PMSL I've heard it all now
Post 402781 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 13:57:38
[quote=siamblue;402771]You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.
Gary.[/quote]
We did - http://www.prideengines.com/ - I would not feel comfortable using someone who does the majority of his work on a driveway. I am sure you are super happy with him & DTP seems very pleased with his 2.4 conversion - but that is just not me.
There is no point just sticking in some cheapy rods to run an extra 0.3 of a bar.
If a job is worth doing then it is worth doing well. The shopping list from Pride to build a proper engine with proper rods (not the ebay specials), flowed head comes in at just over 8K - at which point it is still sitting on a bench. Just ask RT - I am sure he has had the same experience. Then a 1500 quid turbo (maybe need a new DP) - then map it.
On an 11 year old C70 just to get a second off the 1/4 - nah it is just not worth it given that the car for 95% time is a road vehicle. I think about sitting on the other end of a 12-15K bill with my wife growling at me.
Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.
Post 402783 by hamish on 2011-08-10 14:14:09
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402781]We did - http://www.prideengines.com/
Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.[/quote]
LOL.
If you fitted Alcohol Injection it could be really fun / dangerous !!
Post 402784 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 14:15:58
[quote=hamish;402783]LOL.
If you fitted Alcohol Injection it could be really fun / dangerous !![/quote]
The alcohol injection would be in the form of a fridge in the garden.
Post 402785 by WOODY T5 on 2011-08-10 14:35:03
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402458]Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.
Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.
I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.
On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.
The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.
Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!
I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.
I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.
I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).
I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.[/quote]good result that dave the mods u have on it think i would be happy with it.
Post 402786 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 14:43:57
Televisions & everything - http://www.danz.co.uk/shop/Ultimate_Spa_236.php
Post 402787 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 14:47:42
[quote=smithness;402785]good result that dave the mods u have on it think i would be happy with it.[/quote]
The really annoying thing is that I will not get to test it at Santa Pod - unless I have a miracle turn around.
Post 402790 by T5frankie on 2011-08-10 15:19:40
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402787]The really annoying thing is that I will not get to test it at Santa Pod - unless I have a miracle turn around.[/quote]
we can race each other in spirit lol
Post 402794 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 15:25:28
You can have a magical engine & I can have a pretend transmission
Post 402806 by siamblue on 2011-08-10 16:34:10
See Dave you are missing the point again, it is about the guys workmanship and after care not where he works from, we all have too start somewhere, you can lead a horse too water i suppose, carry on Dave.
Gary.
Post 402826 by Mrs Wobbly on 2011-08-10 17:57:30
Sorry to spoil your fun but it's all irrelevant as (and said in my best growling voice) the next project is DECORATING THE BATHROOM.
I may be jesting but I speak the truth ;-)
Post 402828 by Jamest5r on 2011-08-10 17:59:49
Welcome to married life Wobbly PMSL. :)
Post 402829 by T5frankie on 2011-08-10 18:07:03
[quote=Mrs Wobbly;402826]Sorry to spoil your fun but it's all irrelevant as (and said in my best growling voice) the next project is DECORATING THE BATHROOM.
I may be jesting but I speak the truth ;-)[/quote]
pmsl
Post 402830 by jardon on 2011-08-10 18:07:55
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402781]We did - http://www.prideengines.com/ - I would not feel comfortable using someone who does the majority of his work on a driveway. I am sure you are super happy with him & DTP seems very pleased with his 2.4 conversion - but that is just not me.
There is no point just sticking in some cheapy rods to run an extra 0.3 of a bar.
If a job is worth doing then it is worth doing well. The shopping list from Pride to build a proper engine with proper rods (not the ebay specials), flowed head comes in at just over 8K - at which point it is still sitting on a bench. Just ask RT - I am sure he has had the same experience. Then a 1500 quid turbo (maybe need a new DP) - then map it.
On an 11 year old C70 just to get a second off the 1/4 - nah it is just not worth it given that the car for 95% time is a road vehicle. I think about sitting on the other end of a 12-15K bill with my wife growling at me.
Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.[/quote]
I'm just trying to help Dave. I certainly agree that an £8000 bill for a new engine in a daily driver would be overkill.
Are the Ebay rods causing a problem? I haven't come across that I must be honest. If so then then a branded set is still not expensive.
A second off your quarter would make a significantly quicker car and 0.3 bar may well acheive that. It certainly doesn't cost 12-15k to get there - a stock engine with decent compression should suffice while you run a stock frame turbo ie: probably what you have now - check your compression before writing the engine off as knackered.
As a point of principle and to offer my experience - it is short sighted to assume that a small garage provides an inferior standard of work relative to a more corporate outfit no matter what discipline we are talking about. I wouldn't blithely trust any supplier big or small.
Try not to see advice and help as needling you about who works on the car. I've never met you but as a fellow forum member with a similar set up to me I think it's daft not to share information. Maybe I have misjudged the tone of your posts but thay seem a bit defensive - apologies if that's just me .
Post 402876 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 21:21:39
Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.
Post 402877 by claymore on 2011-08-10 21:30:19
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402876]Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.[/quote]
I'm using 20psi without a problem
Post 402879 by jardon on 2011-08-10 21:40:45
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402876]Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.[/quote]
Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.
As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.
Post 402883 by T5frankie on 2011-08-10 21:50:26
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402876]Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.[/quote]
i have been running 1.4 bar for months including racing at avon, york and santa pod my engine was always smokey and is at 207000 miles so was never gonna last for ever but i will only be going up to 16-17psi when my other engine is fitted
Post 402886 by T5frankie on 2011-08-10 21:52:13
[quote=jardon;402879]Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.
As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.[/quote]
my car never had any boost spikes with the mbc but did with the remapped ecu alone and i never hit high boost until after 4000rpms
Post 402887 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 22:01:33
[quote=Claymore]I'm using 20psi without a problem[/quote]
That is 1.37 bar - which is marginal to my mind. I guess I could tweak the actuator 1/2 a turn.
Post 402890 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 22:10:17
[quote=jardon;402879]Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.
As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.[/quote]
Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a 1 bar actuator. The actuator reacts on a 3 - 5 psi control signal from the BCS - a down tuned version of the actual boost pressure. If you have a 1 bar actuator then the wastegate would never open right?
Post 402891 by claymore on 2011-08-10 22:11:57
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402887]That is 1.37 bar - which is marginal to my mind. I guess I could tweak the actuator 1/2 a turn.[/quote]
lol, if you want to be that accurate, I am actually running 21 to 22psi which is more like 1.5bar the engine is also on 220k
Post 402892 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 22:19:16
I will check my compression & look at 1/2 a turn on the waste gate.
Post 402900 by jardon on 2011-08-10 22:48:22
In the absence of a bcs the turbo would only boost to the spring rating of the actuator. Adding a bcs allows the ecu to bleed off boost into the intake and 'hides' the boost from your actuator. At ecu determined levels of boost the bcs allows boost to the actuator and opens the wastegate. So in simple terms if the ecu has 1.4 bar as a peak then the bcs will only allow the actuator to open at that point. Running a higher actuator pre-tension or stronger spring will mean the ecu has less safety margin because the minmum level of boost is higher - the maximum is unchanged if the spring pressure is less than the programmed maximum. So my bcs will only be able to control boost when it is above 1 bar (not true as I lose 0.1 bar in the intercooler). Adding half a turn will make the car boost more aggressively as the minimum boost is increased - it will not increase peak boost because your ecu will still limit boost to whatever is mapped (unless your actuator is really weak and allowing the wastegate to blow open as flow gets higher).
Post 402905 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 22:59:42
Sorry I always believed that the BCS - actuator relationship was a scaled down version of true boost pressure.
Standard setup is 3 to 5 psi depending on the age of the diaphragm. I dont remember if that is plus or minus. At that point the wastegate is shut. As boost increases from the induction system the ECU reads it & then uses a scale down version of the boost pressure to open it. I didn't think (I may be wrong) that it was using a 1 to 1 relationship.
E.g. if the map says open at 1.2 bar then it uses only a few psi to operate the actuator.
However I could be entirely incorrect in this understanding.
Post 402912 by jardon on 2011-08-10 23:38:30
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402890]Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a 1 bar actuator. The actuator reacts on a 3 - 5 psi control signal from the BCS - a down tuned version of the actual boost pressure. If you have a 1 bar actuator then the wastegate would never open right?[/quote]
Try to think of your bcs differently. At 0% duty it allows the compressor housing to communicate directly with the actuator and boost is limited to actuator pressure. At 100% duty the bcs prevents the compressor housing communicating with the actuator and boost will rise until the duty cycle drops or the wastegate blows open. The 3-5 psi figure you refer to is the stock actuator pre-tension from volvo ie: when the turbo is spooling boost cannot be less than 3-5 psi at WOT. So there is no 3-5 psi signal from the bcs just differing levels of communication between the conpressor and actuator depending on the activity of the bcs 'gate'.
Post 402913 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-10 23:53:32
Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?
Post 402922 by jardon on 2011-08-11 00:09:29
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402905]Sorry I always believed that the BCS - actuator relationship was a scaled down version of true boost pressure.
Standard setup is 3 to 5 psi depending on the age of the diaphragm. I dont remember if that is plus or minus. At that point the wastegate is shut. As boost increases from the induction system the ECU reads it & then uses a scale down version of the boost pressure to open it. I didn't think (I may be wrong) that it was using a 1 to 1 relationship.
E.g. if the map says open at 1.2 bar then it uses only a few psi to operate the actuator.
However I could be entirely incorrect in this understanding.[/quote]
If you attach a pump to your actuator nipple and start inflating it will open at 4.3 psi if exactly set to what Volvo state. So once you 4.3 psi of boost in the compressor housing the wastegate starts to open - unless the bcs stops the compressor talking to the actuator. If you added a few turns (I added 3 full turns to mine but it was still blowing open due to being knackered) then you would need to inflate at the actuator nipple a bit more to overcome the increased spring pre-tension - say 8 psi for example. Now the bcs may try to limit boost to 4.3 psi at a particular throttle opening/load point but it can't - which may be bad but in reality the car just feels more aggressive and responds more to small pedal inputs. Once compressor pressure reaches 8 psi the wastegate will open - it is not limited to a 3-5 psi input. My actuator stays closed until the pump reaches 14 psi but it is a Forge part not a fettled volvo item. With an 8 psi forge spring the wastegate was blowing open - unexpected but I suspect the Forge diapragm responds differently to pressure hence the need for a stronger spring (my estimation of what is happening). You would assume this makes the car edgy with light pedal inputs but Marco has (at my nagging) altered the pedal to etm relationship such that pedal response is quite linear. I have to be aware that my ecu cannot reduce boost below ~ 12 psi and this does reduce the margin of safety. The turbo is not efficient enough at low rpm to make 1 bar so no issue there (no bent rods). There is a greater potential for problems at the other end of the rpm range - if my fuel pump fails and I run lean then the ecu has reduced ability to cut boost and stop detonation (but the ecu can close the etm so not terribly risky). My Walbro has failed so I'm currently running a new stock fuel pump again and indeed it did run lean above 5000 rpm at WOT. I have temporarily unplugged the bcs so the boost never rises above ~12 psi until I fit another Walbro or something else I have my eye on. It does not appear to be an issue on hard track or road and I have run 1.4 bar for 30000 miles with little mechanical sympathy. Hope this helps.
Post 402926 by jardon on 2011-08-11 00:31:37
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402913]Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?[/quote]
It certainly wouldn't do to run a 2 bar spring but a 1 bar spring only allows manifold pressure to reach ~12 psi. There is some pressure loss between the compressor and manifold due to restrictions and bends in the intercooler etc. 12 psi is not enough to cause a low rpm issue with a 19t - it is not really spooling hard until 3000 rpm and at that point most ME7 maps are running 18 psi anyway - all my stage 1's (autologic, rica and mte) were running 1.2 bar by 3000 rpm and into positive boost from. 2000 rpm.
Post 402927 by siamblue on 2011-08-11 00:32:09
Jardon my pre tension i set at 7psi on my 19t and my base boost setting is 14psi that is only on the wastegate spring, but the car is actually mapped for 17psi.
Gary.
Post 402930 by jardon on 2011-08-11 00:37:31
[quote=siamblue;402927]Jardon my pre tension i set at 7psi on my 19t and my base boost setting is 14psi that is only on the wastegate spring, but the car is actually mapped for 17psi.
Gary.[/quote]
Hi Gary. Unless we are talking about different things pre-tension and base boost are the same thing ie: if your actuator starts to open at 7 psi (its pre-tension) then minimum (base) boost at WOT is 7 psi. The bcs is what the ecu uses via it's remap to allow 17 psi. Not sure how 14psi fits into the picture (but it is late!).
Post 402932 by hamish on 2011-08-11 01:50:23
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402913]Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?[/quote]
That's right Dave. But Forge do make exceedingly shiny actuators. :fart:
Post 402946 by jardon on 2011-08-11 09:47:20
[quote=hamish;402932]That's right Dave. But Forge do make exceedingly shiny actuators. :fart:[/quote]
I admit I was taken by the shinyness and the fact that not many others are running them (plenty in the US but not in the UK). It was an easy decision though - the Forge is rebuildable and cheaper than a 300/70 Volvo part. My 19t was from SW Autos originally and was running a 216/60 actuator - not the right one and very tired. When we removed the actuator and pulled on the rod there was no resistance at all - I eventually had 5 full turns of pre-tension to achieve target boost (1.4 bar). The wastegate was blowing open from around 4500 rpm and continued to do so with the Forge actuator when fitted with an 8 psi spring - again, this surprised me initially as 8 psi is well above the 4.3 psi that Volvo start with. The internals of the Forge are different sizes to a stock actuator (diaphragm diameter, etc) so it would be no shock if it behaved differently when you think through it. The 14 psi spring got me back to where the failing stock actuator had been over 1 year previously. My advice to anybody looking to buy a new actuator is go for the Forge but buy the 8 and 14 psi springs - fit the weakest and work from that point. They don't behave as a stock actuator does for a given pre-tension ie: a 1 bar spring sounds heavy duty but it behaves well in my application.
Post 402954 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-11 11:32:26
I too am a bit of an engine magpie - I would worry for you because it was cheaper & shinier & that the septics are using it. Do not take this as a derrogatory remark. I hope everything holds together.
Buying stuff that the septics use is always a painful and not necessarily rewarding experience. I know this - IPD ARB bushings gave out within 3 years. Short ram air filter went rusty. IPD HD ARB droplinks did not last any longer than the Volvo OEM items.
I am getting a man to look at the ME7 pipe work & should be able to get a RIP kit with properly mounted sensors - if you are interested
Oh look 10K posts!
Post 402961 by jardon on 2011-08-11 12:36:29
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402954]I too am a bit of an engine magpie - I would worry for you because it was cheaper & shinier & that the septics are using it. Do not take this as a derrogatory remark. I hope everything holds together.
Buying stuff that the septics use is always a painful and not necessarily rewarding experience. I know this - IPD ARB bushings gave out within 3 years. Short ram air filter went rusty. IPD HD ARB droplinks did not last any longer than the Volvo OEM items.
I am getting a man to look at the ME7 pipe work & should be able to get a RIP kit with properly mounted sensors - if you are interested
Oh look 10K posts![/quote]
Congrats on the 10k! My intercooler has different inlet and outlet positions to yours so there is no real gain for me in RIP - but cheers.
IPD do seem to have taken a bit of a bashing on the drop links and HD TCV etc but I do like their ARB's. As you say shiney and "uprated" isn't always best but so far so good. Ashok (Pyaap) provided Forge with a range of TD04 turbos and they have fabricated brackets to fit both straight and angled flange variants with their T2 actuators (T3's are the larger diaphragm actuators that Forge make). I don't see a 19t version on the website but bearing in mind the brackets would fit a range of turbos this may be the one:
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=250101&product=FMACV40
and the spring choices are:
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0019&product=FMAS049
I have a blue spring - an opening pressure of 14 psi and fully open pressure of 18 psi. As already stated this translates to manifold pressure of ~12 psi when running with the actuator alone so the spring rates quoted by Forge do not have a direct relationship with boost - in my application at least.
Post 402965 by jardon on 2011-08-11 13:17:34
[quote=t5frankie;402886]my car never had any boost spikes with the mbc but did with the remapped ecu alone and i never hit high boost until after 4000rpms[/quote]
Cheers Frank, I wasn't getting at your setup - just making the point that ME7 offers significantly greater engine protection (not that you should tune irresponsibly and rely on that). With 4.3 and 4.4 cars boost control will be erratic if mapped incorrectly - this may have been your issue. An MBC will reduce fluctuations in boost but eliminates any protection the ECU may try to exercise by reducing boost. In light of that I would be setting it lower as you have already stated. Although I run a "heavy duty" actuator my ecu can pull boost back to 12 psi if it gets scared whereas an MBC allows that 1.4 bar to wreak havoc if things go wrong.
10k posts here I come - just on Daves thread!
Post 402967 by siamblue on 2011-08-11 13:28:21
[quote=jardon;402930]Hi Gary. Unless we are talking about different things pre-tension and base boost are the same thing ie: if your actuator starts to open at 7 psi (its pre-tension) then minimum (base) boost at WOT is 7 psi. The bcs is what the ecu uses via it's remap to allow 17 psi. Not sure how 14psi fits into the picture (but it is late!).[/quote]
Sorry it was late lol.. I meant to say boost was peaking at 14psi when the actuator was set at 7psi opening. I am not sure whether to turn it down abit a nd let.the evc6 take more.control.of the boost, what are your thoughts? Car holds 20psi + if I wanted it too.
Gary
Post 402968 by jardon on 2011-08-11 13:54:59
[quote=siamblue;402967]Sorry it was late lol.. I meant to say boost was peaking at 14psi when the actuator was set at 7psi opening. I am not sure whether to turn it down abit a nd let.the evc6 take more.control.of the boost, what are your thoughts? Car holds 20psi + if I wanted it too.
Gary[/quote]
Hi Gary, I am out of my depth on EBC's and how they are setup - I think some are more advanced than others with ability to control boost at different rpm settings aren't they? Definitely not me to ask on this for a complete answer but if it's working then I'd leave it as is - I'm guessing less boost means running richer and more boost means leaner with an earlier car so if the fuelling is mapped for a particular level of boost then playing with it either way is not ideal? If the actuator opening pressure is 7psi then the EVC is letting it build to 14psi. What happens if you disconnect the ebc and let the compressor run direct to the actuator - it should boost to ~7psi not 14. Being an ME7 girlie-boy I don't know many folks with an EBC but Tim uses his to good effect and Irf made 340bhp at 1.3 bar with an 18t/flowed head using an ebc.
Post 402974 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-11 15:22:50
When we get the M56 back on - God only knows how long that will be - we will have a play on the dyno & tweak the actuator a bit more & see if I can't get & sustain 1.4 bar - track the IAT's more carefully & see if we can sustain the torque through the rev range. I have a suspicion that it may bubble just like with the bleed valve. Only time will tell.
I have a feeling though that the map will not allow it.
I am also thinking of putting in some additional under bonnet ducting or redesign the sump area to increase a venturi style effect to improve air flow through the FMIC. My thoughts are that if I can significantly decrease the under engine pressure relative to the engine bay - then this will effectively suck the air through the IC - rather than it bouncing of the block. Make the air flow cleaner. Either that or work out a bypass switch for the rad fan (in parallel to the thermostatic control). Barometric sensors - ebay here we come!
Post 402978 by smithy on 2011-08-11 15:35:56
dave dave dave where did you get the idea that it is going to cost you 8k for an engine rebuild.99 percent of rods are forged in china and sent back to the companys for finishing off .i have k1 part of carrielly rods company and they are running 700 bhp evos on the track all day long with no problems.and you are only looking for 350 bhp power for everyday driving and some track use anyway.and personally i would not want to run anymore than 350 whp anyway no point whatever gearbox you are using and your dmf and clutch would not take it anyway.if i was you i would put some rods in it and pistons if you need them and have the engine checked over or put a 2.4 in it.get hamish to send you 19t to his turbo people and have it machined to take bigger wheels like 20g or garrett ,bolt back together no need for dp or nothing just remap and you are running greens anyway so fueling not a problem.or just leave alone and up the boost lower down like you have and see how it goes.but whatever you if will not cost a fortune and bot 8k lol.and if you didnot want to do the 19t use hamishes hybrid turbo that a good unit too
Post 402979 by jardon on 2011-08-11 15:42:42
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402974]When we get the M56 back on - God only knows how long that will be - we will have a play on the dyno & tweak the actuator a bit more & see if I can't get & sustain 1.4 bar - track the IAT's more carefully & see if we can sustain the torque through the rev range. I have a suspicion that it may bubble just like with the bleed valve. Only time will tell.
I have a feeling though that the map will not allow it.
I am also thinking of putting in some additional under bonnet ducting or redesign the sump area to increase a venturi style effect to improve air flow through the FMIC. My thoughts are that if I can significantly decrease the under engine pressure relative to the engine bay - then this will effectively suck the air through the IC - rather than it bouncing of the block. Make the air flow cleaner. Either that or work out a bypass switch for the rad fan (in parallel to the thermostatic control). Barometric sensors - ebay here we come![/quote]
Although there is a chance that you may gain peak boost by tightening the actuator (and I agree you should check as mine was slowly giving up) the map is what will decide how much boost you make. You couldn't get it to make significantly more boost than it's expecting without some of the engine protection kicking in - ME7 is fundamentally built that way. But try it all the same as actuator springs do wear and there may be some lost torque waiting to appear.
I fitted an engine tray recently as my car didn't come with one - in theory this improves air flow through the IC and under the car but I can't honestly say I understand how. All cooling is good though.
Post 402980 by jardon on 2011-08-11 15:53:23
[quote=smithy;402978]dave dave dave where did you get the idea that it is going to cost you 8k for an engine rebuild.99 percent of rods are forged in china and sent back to the companys for finishing off .i have k1 part of carrielly rods company and they are running 700 bhp evos on the track all day long with no problems.and you are only looking for 350 bhp power for everyday driving and some track use anyway.and personally i would not want to run anymore than 350 whp anyway no point whatever gearbox you are using and your dmf and clutch would not take it anyway.if i was you i would put some rods in it and pistons if you need them and have the engine checked over or put a 2.4 in it.get hamish to send you 19t to his turbo people and have it machined to take bigger wheels like 20g or garrett ,bolt back together no need for dp or nothing just remap and you are running greens anyway so fueling not a problem.or just leave alone and up the boost lower down like you have and see how it goes.but whatever you if will not cost a fortune and bot 8k lol.and if you didnot want to do the 19t use hamishes hybrid turbo that a good unit too[/quote]
I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.
Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.
I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.
Post 402981 by smithy on 2011-08-11 16:01:33
[quote=jardon;402980]I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.
Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.
I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.[/quote]
i dont know much about the me7s regarding mapping etc but at 3.8 bar vxrs will be running at nearly 550cc so they should fuel a 19t on full flow no probs i would of thought and if the fuel pump insnt man enough them put a 004 dosch unit in there.this is why i like pre me7 because vxrs will fuel some big turbos no probs
Post 402990 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-11 16:43:21
I am thinking of the bypass switch particularly for the fireup lane where ambient's can be quite high. My IAT's at tickover without any fan running are around 7 to 8 degrees higher than the ambient. Cheap & easy mod to do I think will be to allow the rad fan to run.
I am also thinking about getting some thermal insulation for the gasket between the inlet manifold & the block to reduce conducted heat. I think this will be minimal but relatively inexpensive.
As air passes under the car it should be travelling faster than the air under the bonnet. To encourage this with a sheet of plastic I think I could curve it in such a way to smooth & increase the airflow through the IC. Can't hurt can it.
Post 402992 by jardon on 2011-08-11 16:44:00
[quote=smithy;402981]i dont know much about the me7s regarding mapping etc but at 3.8 bar vxrs will be running at nearly 550cc so they should fuel a 19t on full flow no probs i would of thought and if the fuel pump insnt man enough them put a 004 dosch unit in there.this is why i like pre me7 because vxrs will fuel some big turbos no probs[/quote]
You are absolutely right when considering earlier and later T5's but at 1.4 bar my fuel pressure (and Daves) is 3.8 - 1.4 = 2.4 bar. Pop that through a flow calculator and it's a very different story. On boost the phase 1 vehicles have a vacuum line to the FPR which raises fuel pressure in tandem with manifold pressure to maintain 3 bar above manifold pressure. The pre-facelift ME7 T5's have no control over fuel pressure and therefore on boost you have a bet fall in fuel pressure - shocking but true. With 650cc injectors my duty cycle at full flow is ~85%.
Post 402993 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-11 16:46:39
[quote=jardon;402980]I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.
Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.
I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.[/quote]
I am keeping my current 19 until it expires - I have the greens (I upgraded from blue injectors in 2009/10).
I will remember to measure & report my findings on the duty cycle. All I can say at the moment is that with the 1.2 bar at WOT - the AFR was stable & adequate.
Post 402994 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-11 16:49:43
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402993]I am keeping my current 19 until it expires - I have the greens (I upgraded from blue injectors in 2009/10).
I will remember to measure & report my findings on the duty cycle. All I can say at the moment is that with the 1.2 bar at WOT - the AFR was stable & adequate.[/quote]
I have to report that I am not entirely convinced of the TORQUE application on my android phone - it seemed to produce some spurious numbers e.g. 32 psi boost ???!!
Connectivity over long periods also seems to be an issue.
I may yet turn to a wired USB connection & use a laptop instead.
Post 403007 by turbo-tuner on 2011-08-11 17:42:43
[quote=Wobbly Dave;402994]I have to report that I am not entirely convinced of the TORQUE application on my android phone - it seemed to produce some spurious numbers e.g. 32 psi boost ???!!
Connectivity over long periods also seems to be an issue.
I may yet turn to a wired USB connection & use a laptop instead.[/quote]
32 psi = 2.2 bar
Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.
If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is bollox! :)
Post 403077 by JT on 2011-08-11 21:13:12
[quote=turbo-tuner;403007]32 psi = 2.2 bar
Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.
If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is bollox! :)[/quote]
quality answer!! lol
Post 403122 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-12 00:34:36
[quote=turbo-tuner;403007]32 psi = 2.2 bar
Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.
If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is bollox! :)[/quote]
It's bollox Adam - as it read negative (vacuum) when off boost. I think it is a software fault? possibly??
Post 403126 by turbo-tuner on 2011-08-12 00:39:45
[quote=Wobbly Dave;403122]It's bollox Adam - as it read negative (vacuum) when off boost. I think it is a software fault? possibly??[/quote]
or maybe some calibration setting in the software?
Post 403127 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-08-12 00:48:57
possibly - however I fear that I may still have to fit a god-aweful a-column boost gauge to be certain. I hate them.
Dyno run will confirm to be sure.
Post 417406 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-18 23:14:10
Well it has been a damn depressing 2.5 months but finally the C70 is back on the road.
The full "breakdown" goes as follows.
Bought a 2nd hand gearbox in January & sent it to Competitive Transmission Services in Markyate. They fitted a quaiffe diff & were supposed to refurbish the box.
This box never made it out of the garage - bearly down the road actually before it started playing up. It was notchy & kept dropping out of 2nd gear.
In April after some long winded discussions this box was returned to CTS, who refused to bear the consequential losses (of dropping & shipping the gearbox back).
The original gearbox was then used once the fault was found in the first replacement box. This box had run for over 150K without issue. The LSD was transferred & the box built back up again.
The 2nd attempt lasted from late April to near the end of July (only 1 drag race meeting attended) - before grinding noises in the 1st 4 gears started to manifest.
There have been some arguements over who is responsible for what bits within the box. The internals had overheated somewhat & that friction has cooked it. Debate will continue for sometime as to why & what - but ultimately I don't think I got a fair deal or what I asked for originally.
The upshot of this was I didn't get what I paid for from CTS & eventually just asked for my money back & return of the parts. CTS asked for a stripping charge & return postage but not without making me wait just shy of 4 weeks to return the parts.
In the meantime I decided enough was enough - bought another new quaiffe diff & another 2nd hand gearbox & sent it elsewhere to get the job done properly.
the transmission project must be running close to 3K since Januar. I hope to pursue and recover at least some of this outlay. This may require some additional hassle with a small claims court but I hope for a more amicable solution.
However I am very pleased to have the C70 home. I forgot how quick she is. I felt initially like this isnt my car. Drove quite gingerly home - listening intently for any untoward sounds. I am looking forward to the Oulton Park track day.
It is very cool having 2 Volvos on the driveway.
Post 417408 by t5_monkey on 2011-10-18 23:26:43
[quote=Wobbly Dave;417406]Well it has been a damn depressing 2.5 months but finally the C70 is back on the road.
The full "breakdown" goes as follows.
Bought a 2nd hand gearbox in January & sent it to Competitive Transmission Services in Markyate. They fitted a quaiffe diff & were supposed to refurbish the box.
This box never made it out of the garage - bearly down the road actually before it started playing up. It was notchy & kept dropping out of 2nd gear.
In April after some long winded discussions this box was returned to CTS, who refused to bear the consequential losses (of dropping & shipping the gearbox back).
The original gearbox was then used once the fault was found in the first replacement box. This box had run for over 150K without issue. The LSD was transferred & the box built back up again.
The 2nd attempt lasted from late April to near the end of July (only 1 drag race meeting attended) - before grinding noises in the 1st 4 gears started to manifest.
There have been some arguements over who is responsible for what bits within the box. The internals had overheated somewhat & that friction has cooked it. Debate will continue for sometime as to why & what - but ultimately I don't think I got a fair deal or what I asked for originally.
The upshot of this was I didn't get what I paid for from CTS & eventually just asked for my money back & return of the parts. CTS asked for a stripping charge & return postage but not without making me wait just shy of 4 weeks to return the parts.
In the meantime I decided enough was enough - bought another new quaiffe diff & another 2nd hand gearbox & sent it elsewhere to get the job done properly.
the transmission project must be running close to 3K since Januar. I hope to pursue and recover at least some of this outlay. This may require some additional hassle with a small claims court but I hope for a more amicable solution.
However I am very pleased to have the C70 home. I forgot how quick she is. I felt initially like this isnt my car. Drove quite gingerly home - listening intently for any untoward sounds. I am looking forward to the Oulton Park track day.
It is very cool having 2 Volvos on the driveway.[/quote]
Pull the directors report on their company to get their full names.
Use the electoral roll to find out where they live from their full name.
Send a polite letter saying you unfortunately must insist on a full refund - to their home address.
That usually works :)
Failing that - hope you get it all sorted - keep the faith as your C70 is awesome :D
Post 417409 by jardon on 2011-10-18 23:39:31
Glad it's up and running again Dave. What gearbox oil are you running?
Post 417411 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-18 23:52:14
I'd have to look it up or ask Hamish. I believe it is OEM Volvo gearbox oil.
Post 417413 by jardon on 2011-10-19 00:15:00
You may wish to canvas opinion on gear/transmission oils for high performance applications. I run Redline Heavyweight Shockproof because of the Gripper but their 75/90NS may be an option. Quaife say use the manufacturers recommended oil. Just be sure it's not a budget oem. It's going to be hard to determine why it overheated but some oils stay stable to higher temps than others. I know how anal you are about engine oil (as am I) so thought I'd mention it.
Post 417424 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-19 09:44:30
I only ever use top quality lubricants. oo er!
Post 417426 by p fandango on 2011-10-19 10:18:56
do you think their was any issues with the diff itself? I've never heard of any previous problems with Quaife
Post 417434 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-19 11:07:12
The quaiffe diff is fine. There were a number of opinions expressed about the 2nd demise - none of them diff related - it was more to do with the reconstruction & principally the alignment of bearings (which were supposed to be new) being incorrectly installed. TBH it is a little beyond my level of engineering knowledge but I think the consensus was it was put together too tightly - which would explain the additional friction.
This is neither here nor there - fact is it failed within 2 months of a refurb & even with the dozen or so drag strip runs, I don't believe it was completed with due skill or care.
Post 417435 by lance on 2011-10-19 11:09:06
Good luck with the claim and looking forward to seeing her in action at Olton park
Post 417436 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-19 11:23:23
Gonna be a fantastic day - just praying everything hold together.
Post 417442 by smithy on 2011-10-19 11:41:53
[quote=Wobbly Dave;417434]The quaiffe diff is fine. There were a number of opinions expressed about the 2nd demise - none of them diff related - it was more to do with the reconstruction & principally the alignment of bearings (which were supposed to be new) being incorrectly installed. TBH it is a little beyond my level of engineering knowledge but I think the consensus was it was put together too tightly - which would explain the additional friction.
This is neither here nor there - fact is it failed within 2 months of a refurb & even with the dozen or so drag strip runs, I don't believe it was completed with due skill or care.[/quote]
im glad you have your car mate you have had alot of hassle and expense .now enjoy yourself and stop breaking it lol.now i want my car back on the road now boo hoo ,ive forgot what its like to drive a turbo
Post 417447 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-19 11:48:01
I saw yours being mapped yesterday. Anyway you are a fine one to talk when it comes to breaking Volvos LOL.
Post 417454 by smithy on 2011-10-19 12:14:44
[quote=Wobbly Dave;417447]I saw yours being mapped yesterday. Anyway you are a fine one to talk when it comes to breaking Volvos LOL.[/quote]
i have not broken my car mate i am improving it by mapping the fuel system so i dont overfuel it .but it it did drive everyday though .lets see what happens when i get the car back to see if i have power on boost .then no one will beat the oldtech 940 .
Post 417455 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-10-19 12:33:35
There was a mention that you'd blown the bottom out of it? However I am keen to see the full potential of the old skool RWD
Post 417470 by smithy on 2011-10-19 16:39:07
[quote=Wobbly Dave;417455]There was a mention that you'd blown the bottom out of it? However I am keen to see the full potential of the old skool RWD[/quote]
no i didnot blow the bottom end out i built a new forged bottom end but it was not right so i took it back out and put another engine in for now till i find what the problem is with the forged one and then that baby will be back in .the engine in the car at mo is totally standard, the big valve head and cam is bolted to the forged engine .
Post 428491 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-11-22 01:15:22
End of last week Betsy began to develop a rotational humming noise coming from the N/S. Bear in mind the gearbox drama I've had all year - with version 3 of the Quaiffe LSD/M56L combo now up & running for not much more than a month. The noise - which was most prevalent at 35 - 40mph was directly proportional to the rotation speed of the wheel, was not that loud - but it is one of the "o-oh" noises that you know will only get worse with age.
Took Betsy to HLM - the guys were not sure if it was a diff bearing or the wheel bearing. So starting with the easiest fix first - we changed the OSF hub & we went out again. To say I had my heart in my mouth would be an understatement.
To my great relief the noise had gone - & the gearbox can stay where it is for now. Cheers to Hamish & the guys for sorting me out at such short notice. I am sure they were as relieved as I that the box wasn't coming out again for the 4th time this year.
Post 428533 by Murphy on 2011-11-22 10:27:15
Great news Dave - lucky boy!
Post 428562 by lance on 2011-11-22 11:32:28
Have to say I was impressed with Betsy when I went in her at Oulton, just a shame the coolant light came on
Post 428578 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-11-22 12:59:35
I think I may have a leaky heater matrix - it has never been changed. I seem to get from the max to min/warning light more often & usually takes 3 weeks. There is no oil/water mix - I doubt the cylinder head gasket is on its way. Well at least I hope so.
Post 428616 by p fandango on 2011-11-22 15:07:11
i've only just noticed you've gone to a M56L, what do you think to the different ratios in it?
Post 428620 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-11-22 15:23:30
Not that I can tell. M56L was AFAIK the original. I know that version 1 box was slightly different as the push rod arm (the vertical one) was a different length to that of Betsy's original box. Not sure which box is in there now - I am just guessing that it will be M56L as supplied by Salvo.
Sorry but I don't have the tech spec on the differences.
Post 428621 by p fandango on 2011-11-22 15:29:02
[quote=Wobbly Dave;428620]Not that I can tell. M56L was AFAIK the original. I know that version 1 box was slightly different as the push rod arm (the vertical one) was a different length to that of Betsy's original box. Not sure which box is in there now - I am just guessing that it will be M56L as supplied by Salvo.
Sorry but I don't have the tech spec on the differences.[/quote]
i thought all T-5's had M56H's. The actual gear ratios were only different on 1st & 2nd (L lower ratio, H higher) but the L normally had a different final ratio than we have. If you've managed to get one with the same final drive you might not of noticed any difference which might explain it. I've not managed to figure out where the final drive ratio is written on a gearbox
Post 428622 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-11-22 15:32:20
I will have a look at the housing what is sitting in the shed - from version 1.
Post 432420 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 01:46:14
Fitted R-Style gauge rings to the instrument binancle - so Betsy has yet more bling. I think they look smart.
Been doing some more testing now I have fitted new MAP & IAT sensors to the inlet manifold pipe. The logged figures appear more accurate to what I'd seen on the old ones - about 1 psi less. The new BT/ODBII does seem to have reduced some of the data lag - though I think I am limited within the bounds of the BT bandwidth.
I think for total accuracy I will have to use the software/laptop option & connect via USB to the ECU. The max polling interval with TORQUE's data logger is only once every second, which is disappointing. GPS speed logging seems particularly laggy. Track recorder values do not render properly to the PC - however they do look ok on the phone (matching the recorded sound)
I have reached the conclusion however - that there is not much more than I can do to the tuning in Betsy's current configuration. I may yet look to a more youthful engine & a turbo change for next season.
I have been uming & aring about buying one of these to further improve throttle response
http://www.ecotek.eu/CB-26P.htm
Anyone have any thoughts - they seem expensive for the limited application on a trailing throttle - so I am not sure.
Post 432423 by M-R-P on 2011-12-04 02:19:43
Three letters Dave, N O S ;)
Post 432438 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 10:36:22
At the moment I am leaning towards getting a younger ME7 engine and throwing some forged rods in it
Post 432451 by smithy on 2011-12-04 11:28:20
forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.
Post 432452 by T5frankie on 2011-12-04 11:30:35
[quote=smithy;432451]forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.[/quote]
who would do that?
Post 432454 by smithy on 2011-12-04 11:32:03
[quote=t5frankie;432452]who would do that?[/quote]
i dont know mate lol
Post 432459 by t5_monkey on 2011-12-04 11:35:49
[quote=smithy;432451]forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.[/quote]
Is that what Jardon has on his?
Post 432463 by T5frankie on 2011-12-04 11:39:01
[quote=smithy;432454]i dont know mate lol[/quote]
yes you do lol
Post 432465 by smithy on 2011-12-04 11:42:57
[quote=t5frankie;432463]yes you do lol[/quote]
no mate i dont know what you are talking about all the garages do all my work i know nothing lol
Post 432468 by T5frankie on 2011-12-04 11:44:18
[quote=smithy;432465]no mate i dont know what you are talking about all the garages do all my work i know nothing lol[/quote]
ok turbo technics i get you :wink:
Post 432472 by smithy on 2011-12-04 11:53:12
who are those mate ive never heard of them mate can you pass me the number please lol,from what i have heard turbo dynamics do a similar sort of thing aswell thats who hlm deal with hint hint.but all this info is only what i see on the internet and on forums me dont know nothing lol,come on dave you know you want to.
Post 432473 by T5frankie on 2011-12-04 11:59:45
[quote=smithy;432472]who are those mate ive never heard of them mate can you pass me the number please lol,from what i have heard turbo dynamics do a similar sort of thing aswell thats who hlm deal with hint hint.but all this info is only what i see on the internet and on forums me dont know nothing lol,come on dave you know you want to.[/quote]
you ok mate?
Post 432474 by smithy on 2011-12-04 12:03:29
[quote=t5frankie;432473]you ok mate?[/quote]
why just got up brains a cabbage thinking about its aways a cabbage lately lol.
Post 432501 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 14:29:20
I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).
I am also wondering about the health of the donor engine once the head is off. Do I need a superdooper headgasket or will a replacement OEM do - should I get the head skimmed - is a headgasket reusable - are the headbolts a once only use?
What other internal components should be done? Can some of the more experience members (James & Smithy etc) characterise these into 3 categories (Essential, recommended & nice to have).
I do not intend to do very much with the donor head.
The main driver for this is that Betsy's engine is old. She is due another cambelt - so I would rather spend that new cambelt money on the donor engine.
Post 432526 by smithy on 2011-12-04 16:43:57
if i was in your shoes with new baby and all due soon mate options are.second hand me7 engine easy to come by and not badly priced ether,set of rods from ths or similar and check condition of standard pistons .if pistons are good just change rods with new bearings and check the other bearings and components whilst there.bearings are normally pretty good and strong.have the head tested and use oem gasket pretty good for high boost .i recon engine rods and gasket set and put together for you budget for 1500 pounds mate.19t modded turbo using your turbo 350 pounds and revised map hlm to price .hope this helps mate.also check vvt pullys too might need new ones too
Post 432545 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 17:28:58
Would you be prepared to come round & check things over - I am reasonable good with spanners but would appreciate a second pair of eyes once taken apart. I have found these...
http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/Volvo-2324---25-5-Cylinder---Carrillo-Con-Rod-Set
what do you think?
Post 432553 by Jamest5r on 2011-12-04 17:51:15
I agree with most of what Smithy has said :) however from my experience's i would always go down the route of having the block rebored and new pistons as well, no matter how good the 2nd hand block you get it will defo have some bore wear.
So what i done was Kalmar rods £380 and they come with the bolts.
Volvo 81.4mm pistons(mehle) with rings around £500.
Head Bolts(dont even think about reusing the old ones)
Gasket set.
Timing belt kit.
Water pump.
Then take it to an engine builder get him to check the bearing's etc(hopefully all ok) and bore it and build it, cost me around £500.
You are looking at the best part of 2k to get something that is worth doing.
Post 432572 by M-R-P on 2011-12-04 18:28:44
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432501]I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).
[/quote]
Don't know of it would help or confuse the situation but mine is a B5234T3 and is 2319cc.
From what I have learned on this forum, the bottom ends havnt changed since the t5 lump started. Happy to be corrected tho ;)
Post 432587 by p fandango on 2011-12-04 19:07:26
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432501]I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).[/quote]
it wasn't till 2002- they changed to the longer rods & shorter piston, also got the lighter crank. In late 99 Volvo started changing the heads over from hydraulic to solid valve lifters. The heads with solid lifters have approximately 20% larger intake ports, modified coolant and oil passages. The base circle on the cam increased 2mm. In addition the valve stem diameter changed from 7mm to 6mm
Post 432683 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 20:51:07
So how much of the actual engine build can I do myself?
I assume I can do the strip down right - but who should build it up?
Post 432692 by claymore on 2011-12-04 20:58:38
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432683]So how much of the actual engine build can I do myself?
I assume I can do the strip down right - but who should build it up?[/quote]
Build it yourself, it's only changing rods and pistons, I used to rebuild my escort engine before each rally.
Post 432708 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 21:13:14
That would be fine apart from the points made by james about checking & reboring the donor block.
Post 432725 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 21:40:26
Made an offer on a 79K engine - waiting for verification of the mileage.
Post 432727 by smithy on 2011-12-04 21:43:52
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432708]That would be fine apart from the points made by james about checking & reboring the donor block.[/quote]
regarding the pistons its good point once you have rebuilt the engine and put it back in you dont want to be taking it back out again .but once the engine is built and fitted you can whatever turbo you want on it within reason and now you have the strenght to cope with it.i always say imho 350 whp is about as much as you want for a road/trackday fwd monster
Post 432744 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 22:18:24
It is the ability to cope with additional torque that I am after. I have done some calculations & 350 is about as much as FWD can handle/ as much as the chassis can handle & still remain driveable for regular use.
If I can peak & hold around 450 - 550 NM that will be awesome. Essentially I am looking to tune the same profile as I have now - just higher & sustained longer - perhaps even as far as 6500rpm?
I think that the Yellow Peril is a case in point where there is too much??
Not that bothered about peak willy waving figures.
Post 432745 by smithy on 2011-12-04 22:25:34
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432744]It is the ability to cope with additional torque that I am after. I have done some calculations & 350 is about as much as FWD can handle/ as much as the chassis can handle & still remain driveable for regular use.
If I can peak & hold around 450 - 550 NM that will be awesome. Essentially I am looking to tune the same profile as I have now - just higher & sustained longer - perhaps even as far as 6500rpm?
I think that the Yellow Peril is a case in point where there is too much??
Not that bothered about peak willy waving figures.[/quote]
that amount of torque will be easy to get and hold the engine in 1 piece and you have a 7.5k rpm limit mate
Post 432753 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 22:37:18
Any advice on the headwork - should I look for new valves or other things? When we spoke you said you thought the head should be fine as is?
Post 432755 by smithy on 2011-12-04 22:46:27
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432753]Any advice on the headwork - should I look for new valves or other things? When we spoke you said you thought the head should be fine as is?[/quote]
its a 20v head mate and vvt just get it pressure tested and crack tested same thing really and a general check over and a minor skim to make sure its flat and job done mate.the only thing thats stops these engines are the rods mate and you will get a realible 300 to 350 whp out of these engine when they are changed.
Post 432760 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-04 22:57:04
Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?
Post 432763 by smithy on 2011-12-04 23:05:27
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432760]Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?[/quote]
get the engine first i will pm you my number mate
Post 432772 by hamish on 2011-12-04 23:54:44
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432760]Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?[/quote]
Yes.
I will ask him over the next few days how much he wants for rebuilding an engine for you using new (forged) rods and pistons as well.
But unless you change that turbo for something bigger otherwise you aren't going to get the power and torque you are looking for.
Does Ellen know what you are up to ?
Regards,
H.
Post 432788 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-05 03:17:53
Hamish,
No Ellen has no idea about this & no I can't sleep either. I haven't worked out how to do either of them yet.
I was hoping to do this as my shed based project over the coming year.
My wobbly logic goes something like this....
Betsy's engine has a limited life span. The engine has done 170K on it.
I still enjoy the shape & currently I can think of nothing on the market that I would prefer. The new C70 torsional stiffness probably means that doing a full RS conversion on it will be too much for the chassis. I don't really want another S40 or V50. The S60 MY2005 is a logical choice to get the ME9 engine - but again I am not keen on the styliing. Going backwards towards 850s doesn't really do it for me either.
Betsy is mostly in fine form - a bit of paint on the front bumper wouldnt go amiss - but Ellen has already said she'd help me with that for my 40th present. So for the foreseeable future I am keeping the C70.
I was keen to engage discussions over extending the torque with a new turbo on a standard engine, like when we last discussed it at my recent wheel bearing change, but I am duly wary of doing a great deal more on an older engine.
That 19T on their is over 150K old now - having done work on all 3 T5s I ever owned. So my logic was - if the cambelt needs doing then perhaps sticking in a newer engine & a newer turbo would work.
Talking to smithy about Torque at the Ace Cafe, the graph his 940 made & the 8 kids he has, plus the arrival of James' T5R led to this latest drivel about me putting rods & pistons in too.
The engine project would in fact cost me twice as much as what anyone quotes - as I promised Ellen that I would give her what ever I spend, but rest assured that Ellen & the wibble will not go short.
So I have nearly 4000 euros saved up from my "vakantie spaargeld". This is over & above what I usually take home. I will sell the heated C70 seats sitting in my shed.
I am hoping that Bernie @ CTS will give me something back. The sensible thing to do would be to pay back my Barclaycard & get the bathroom retiled (which I will get done this year before the baby arrives).
At the moment I have spent 35 quid on a 2nd hand Sealey engine stand & offered a breaker 200 quid for a 2nd hand ME7 engine. I may yet just stick the engine on the stand & turn it around a few times. Apparently according to a recent BBC report I saw on Breakfast telly - men doing "stuff" in the shed is very good for their health & mental well being. I have just received all the new tools that got nicked & I was hoping to actually use some of them. I have also looked at the Carillo rods & JE pistons - which are a bit more expensive. I also thought I could just buy the parts & do the work myself (in my fort knox shed).
I was of course going to ask you about which turbo to use & can you map it up.
I was also going to ask about fitting this... http://www.ecotekplc.com/CB-26P.htm Web & magazine reviews seem very positive & about fitting the AP brakes.
Post 432841 by smithy on 2011-12-05 14:01:12
dave you cannot compare my car and your car they are completely different machines.the turbo that is on james car is only on there because my v70 got smashed up and was only on my 940 for a tempary measure ,because it was designed for 850/v70 .its going to cost you alot of money mate with the labour costs etc involved and the maping too.with a new baby coming too you dont need that round your neck mate.if i was you mate learn how to get the most out of your car at mo at the stage it is and save your money for baby and house etc because that costs alot mate.ps your car is not slow mate just need to get better at driving that car mate lol
Post 432851 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-05 14:52:36
I have a man coming this evening to quote me on the bathroom.
I got a decent 60ft - 2.3 seconds but Betsy just won't go that quick in 2nd. No matter what I do the best speed through the 660 has been 79 MPH. It's usually somwhere between 77 & 78.
I can add no more boost without serious risk to my rods. According to my test OTR figures she makes 21.9 psi (1.5 bar) on the new sensors - timing dips to around 16 degrees BTDC - fueling is spot on & AFR - and IAT rises about 12 - 15 degrees above ambient. On the dyno I make 400NM (you'll find the graph earlier on). Baby Wibble/ Ellen will lack for nothing rest assured - just thought it would be a good shed based project. It might take a year to complete. One thing that the gearbox project has told me - is that I am sick to death of lining other people's pockets.
And you are right - all of this doesn't add up to a hill of beans when you consider the fact that I do 6-8 RYWB per year & 2 track days.
Post 432871 by p fandango on 2011-12-05 15:40:45
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432851]I got a decent 60ft - 2.3 seconds but Betsy just won't go that quick in 2nd. No matter what I do the best speed through the 660 has been 79 MPH. It's usually somwhere between 77 & 78[/quote]
my best 60ft is 2.390, yet my best speed over the 660ft is 77.19 (that was on my 14.557run)
Post 432919 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-05 17:53:09
This is very similar to my 14.50 second run - I think the 660 was about 78. However without a substantial increase in speed I am unlikely to see the subside of 14 seconds.
And yes I am clinging to the 1/2 a tenth ET.
Post 432923 by T5frankie on 2011-12-05 18:00:05
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432919]This is very similar to my 14.50 second run - I think the 660 was about 78. However without a substantial increase in speed I am unlikely to see the subside of 14 seconds.
And yes I am clinging to the 1/2 a tenth ET.[/quote]
lol, you will need to mate cos i'm chasing you down first target lol
Post 432932 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-05 18:09:50
BRING IT LOL - does this mean you have done the flintstone floorpan mod to the V70R?
Post 432934 by T5frankie on 2011-12-05 18:11:40
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432788]Hamish,
No Ellen has no idea about this & no I can't sleep either. I haven't worked out how to do either of them yet.
I was hoping to do this as my shed based project over the coming year.
My wobbly logic goes something like this....
Betsy's engine has a limited life span. The engine has done 170K on it.
I still enjoy the shape & currently I can think of nothing on the market that I would prefer. The new C70 torsional stiffness probably means that doing a full RS conversion on it will be too much for the chassis. I don't really want another S40 or V50. The S60 MY2005 is a logical choice to get the ME9 engine - but again I am not keen on the styliing. Going backwards towards 850s doesn't really do it for me either.
Betsy is mostly in fine form - a bit of paint on the front bumper wouldnt go amiss - but Ellen has already said she'd help me with that for my 40th present. So for the foreseeable future I am keeping the C70.
I was keen to engage discussions over extending the torque with a new turbo on a standard engine, like when we last discussed it at my recent wheel bearing change, but I am duly wary of doing a great deal more on an older engine.
That 19T on their is over 150K old now - having done work on all 3 T5s I ever owned. So my logic was - if the cambelt needs doing then perhaps sticking in a newer engine & a newer turbo would work.
Talking to smithy about Torque at the Ace Cafe, the graph his 940 made & the 8 kids he has, plus the arrival of James' T5R led to this latest drivel about me putting rods & pistons in too.
The engine project would in fact cost me twice as much as what anyone quotes - as I promised Ellen that I would give her what ever I spend, but rest assured that Ellen & the wibble will not go short.
So I have nearly 4000 euros saved up from my "vakantie spaargeld". This is over & above what I usually take home. I will sell the heated C70 seats sitting in my shed.
I am hoping that Bernie @ CTS will give me something back. The sensible thing to do would be to pay back my Barclaycard & get the bathroom retiled (which I will get done this year before the baby arrives).
At the moment I have spent 35 quid on a 2nd hand Sealey engine stand & offered a breaker 200 quid for a 2nd hand ME7 engine. I may yet just stick the engine on the stand & turn it around a few times. Apparently according to a recent BBC report I saw on Breakfast telly - men doing "stuff" in the shed is very good for their health & mental well being. I have just received all the new tools that got nicked & I was hoping to actually use some of them. I have also looked at the Carillo rods & JE pistons - which are a bit more expensive. I also thought I could just buy the parts & do the work myself (in my fort knox shed).
I was of course going to ask you about which turbo to use & can you map it up.
I was also going to ask about fitting this... http://www.ecotekplc.com/CB-26P.htm Web & magazine reviews seem very positive & about fitting the AP brakes.[/quote]
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432932]BRING IT LOL - does this mean you have done the flintstone floorpan mod to the V70R?[/quote]
lol i'll just use the 850 bound to win then (i say begrudgingly)
Post 432937 by p fandango on 2011-12-05 18:15:18
[quote=t5frankie;432934]lol i'll just use the 850 bound to win then (i say begrudgingly)[/quote]
looks like your finally coming round, 850's rule :)
Post 432941 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-05 18:22:50
listen - frankies wagon post mod...
Post 432942 by T5frankie on 2011-12-05 18:23:30
[quote=p fandango;432937]looks like your finally coming round, 850's rule :)[/quote]
never said they wern't quicker just not a nicer place to sit or to look at.
Has anybody on here tuned a manual v70r awd?
Post 432943 by T5frankie on 2011-12-05 18:24:00
[quote=Wobbly Dave;432941]listen - frankies wagon post mod...[/quote]
eh?
Post 434998 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-10 21:41:56
[quote=t5frankie;432943]eh?[/quote]
Sorry I was trying to download the Flintstone car .wav file - the one that sounds like bongos.
Post 435001 by T5frankie on 2011-12-10 21:43:37
[quote=Wobbly Dave;434998]Sorry I was trying to download the Flintstone car .wav file - the one that sounds like bongos.[/quote]
850 has been sold pending payment long live the 70's dave lol we are the minority on here lol
Post 435029 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-10 22:10:56
Well I have been beavering away a bit on Betsy today - fitted the Mehle ARB drop links - swapped to winter tyres & put my new samco coolant hoses on (with shiny new jubilees).
I am impressed with the Mehle's - these HD droplinks look the biz & also love the price. Previous attempts with IPD & QD have ended in disappointment & some ridicule from Hamish (with good justification). Now if these dont last - it doesn't matter as they are the same price as the standard OEM ones!
Thanks to Dicky for pointing me in the right direction
Am waiting for Niles's intake pipe & then I will put up some new engine bay shots (plus I ran out of light).
Here are the comparitive shots - (apologies for the poor picture quality but I was shaking due to the cold)
Post 435566 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-12 01:16:23
First post has been updated - so you don't have to read the whole 300 plus posts to get an idea.
Post 440492 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-26 22:51:25
Couple of updated engine shots with the custom intake.
Post 440573 by smithy on 2011-12-27 13:47:08
[quote=Wobbly Dave;440492]Couple of updated engine shots with the custom intake.[/quote]
nice and shiny but does it do anything for your car
Post 440575 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-27 14:10:16
Turbo does seem to spoil just a tad quicker & there is some improvement in throttle response. Noise is not much changed - perhaps a little more suction/whistle from the 19T.
But overall I dunno - only the dyno will tell.
I am happy enough with the mod.
Post 440578 by M-R-P on 2011-12-27 14:13:43
Looking good, tidy as always ;) enjoy!
Post 440579 by smithy on 2011-12-27 14:14:22
[quote=Wobbly Dave;440575]Turbo does seem to spoil just a tad quicker & there is some improvement in throttle response. Noise is not much changed - perhaps a little more suction/whistle from the 19T.
But overall I dunno - only the dyno will tell.
I am happy enough with the mod.[/quote]
good but the mod dont always show an increase on the dyno though it just improves the way the car drives and i think you can get a larger tb from sweden for yours.i know i can get up to a 4.5 in tb for mine 120 pounds nice lol
Post 440600 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-27 15:07:56
Accronym attach - larger TB?
Perhaps 1/2 a tenth on the 1/4 - or nothing at all. who knows. Air intakes are the same still (not surprised by that) - all I can say is there is no lag at all now on throttle response from the ETM/pedal. I hit the loud one & the revs rise pretty instantly.
I would like to increase the air intake without a bonnet scoop - (don't want to mess up the lines) whilst at the I don't want to create a water intake. The standard intake is now the smallest diameter part of the induction circuit.
If I could have the same thing - but wider & still flat enough to poke out beyond the rad pack then that would be a good mod.
Post 441506 by Wobbly Dave on 2011-12-30 01:29:52
Well done to Betsy today for making 160K & still pullin' strong.
My Dad is off to make the MAP & IAT sensor saddle in aluminium for me so I can have all metal pipe work going to the ETM - which will complete my R.I.P. conversion. So I am excited about that. I am certain that the prototype will prove popular with other ME7 owners upto 2004.
I have also ordered a length of fresh air pipe work (89mm) from Demon Tweaks just to see if I can't get a litte more air into the cone sheild. Do you think I should run both the OEM & the extra or just remove the standard pipe.
I plan to run the fresh air feed from the bottom valance. I think water intake will be a very minimal risk as any water coming in will have to climb uphill & jump the gap to the cone.
Post 452912 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-21 23:51:35
Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny!
Post 452928 by rikcougar on 2012-01-22 08:01:53
That is looking very tasty Dave, question is does it help with heat soak?
Post 452935 by M-R-P on 2012-01-22 09:48:08
That is indeed a very nice, shiny chewing gum hoover ;)
Post 452936 by JUDGENINJA on 2012-01-22 10:11:15
Dave - consider putting an AEM bypass valve on if you are putting the intake that low.
AEM bypass valve
Post 452950 by turbo-tuner on 2012-01-22 10:54:58
[quote=Wobbly Dave;452912]Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny![/quote]
Perhaps what you have made there is a hot air feed!
In the summer, the highest air temperature is just above the road surface and the temperature gradient is very high, which is why you get a mirage.
Post 452952 by T5frankie on 2012-01-22 10:57:51
not good there mate for big puddles or heavy rain on the ground
Post 452954 by p fandango on 2012-01-22 10:59:03
[quote=turbo-tuner;452950]What you have made there is a hot air feed!
In the summer, the highest air temperature is just above the road surface and the temperature gradient is very high, which is why you get a mirage.[/quote]
i've had my doubts about how effective air filter heat shields are in engine bays as well, inless you get it 100% perfectly sealed you might as well not bother
Post 452969 by JUDGENINJA on 2012-01-22 11:36:27
Pedro - wind chill in mine without the headlight where my cold air box is the size of a small car were fridge temperatures (3-4degC). The box was freezing even after I'd driven back to the pits from a 1/4mile run.
Post 452982 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-22 12:00:57
I have measure the air intake temps in the manifold & at idle throttle when moving & when not. There is not much in it - but the temp reads not much more than 1 degree difference.
Given that the hole in the shield is no different to when it was fed by the OEM pipe. So in terms of rain induction - I am doubtful - as there a 2 right hand bend in the flex tube.
I am not going green laning so unless I put the car into a puddle upto it ears - I am unlikely to hydrolock. Also if there is such a risk - I can drop the flex pipe off the front.
Post 452983 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-22 12:09:25
Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.
There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.
Post 452984 by T5frankie on 2012-01-22 12:16:18
[quote=Wobbly Dave;452983]Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.
There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.[/quote]
i'm talking about constant standing water
Post 452986 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-22 12:21:09
It's a coupe - not a boat!
use case #1
driving through deep puddles - contact with water is behind the intake.
use case #2
I only know of 1 ford in the West Midlands & the route to avoid it.
Post 452989 by JUDGENINJA on 2012-01-22 12:24:36
[quote=Wobbly Dave;452983]Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.
There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.[/quote]
Ah yes I see now.. Randomguy's Primera was filtered from the lower inner wing.
Post 452991 by T5frankie on 2012-01-22 12:26:54
[quote=t5frankie;452984]i'm talking about constant standing water[/quote]
there was a bloke selling an mgzs on ebay the other day on an 04 plate cheap cos of the exact same issue his a puddle and lkilled his car as the intake was at the bottom of the bumper, s'up to you mate looks good though, still wont beat me though ll
Post 452994 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-22 12:31:06
Is there an air gap on the MG??
Post 453156 by jardon on 2012-01-22 16:35:52
[quote=Wobbly Dave;452912]Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny![/quote]
I think you'd be very unlucky to get that "airbox" space to fill with water but it can be done - I filled a 406 to the brim but it lived to tell the tale. It does look like a neat and shiny job. Adam is right about the air temps on road though and you may be better off taking the air from a higher point anyway - not an issue until summer obviously. I like the idea of a cone filter with appropriate cold air feed and sealed off underbonnet space - purely for the induction noise as performance wise the stock piping and airbox are great. Does yours seal well with the bonnet?
Post 453277 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-22 20:19:31
Thing is I haven't changed the heat shield for the last 3 years. It is still the same IPD thing I bought donkeys ago..
All I have done is change the feed. The diameter is slightly larger.
If the temps rise to a point where it is important - then I can just take the flex hose part off the front. this is a compromise as I will then be sucking air past the end of the rad pack
What troubles me is the very small gap above the FMIC to squeeze in the air forward of the rad pack. So if I had the tech to build one - I love to make a scoop to replace the top inner valance.
So what I have now is a larger diameter - but yes there is a compromise on intake position - but there are only 2 positions where the intake faces forward. I could have drilled through the front bumper by the fog light or use the fog light hole itself - but that is no higher up.
Air box seals reasonably well. There is a gap between the edge & the inner wing. You can see the imprint on the sound deadening - & the temps seen at the manifold are just fine.
I could do with some new edging strips.
Post 453441 by jardon on 2012-01-23 08:44:30
Thanks Dave, could be something to try out this summer. I think with some Blue Peter style fabrication I could make an air tight seal. Do you get a louder induction note than with a stock airbox?
Post 453450 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-23 11:34:14
yes the noise was always much more pronouced. I am surprised you have not watched my videos. The recirc valve is clearly audiable.
It would not be that hard to make the IPD box entirely sealed. Personally I would like to chrome the whole thing up.
All I'd need would be some chromium sulphate, some strong acid (to clean it first) and a decent size tank (and obviously some electricity).
Alternatively - I could just find a plating company in the west mids. There are bound to be plenty of those.
Post 453478 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-23 15:32:21
As it appears the new rules mean I cannot edit old posts to make them clearer. The intake shield remains unchanged.
This was the before
This is the after
Post 453481 by daza-b on 2012-01-23 16:54:37
looking good matey :D
Post 453511 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-23 18:02:48
I thought so.
Post 453512 by daza-b on 2012-01-23 18:09:14
where do you get the chromed bits from??
Post 453535 by Jamest5r on 2012-01-23 18:56:01
[quote=Wobbly Dave;453478]As it appears the new rules mean I cannot edit old posts to make them clearer. The intake shield remains unchanged.
This was the before
This is the after
[/quote]
Dave i think that look's the nut's mate :)
Post 453543 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-23 19:08:41
where do you get the chromed bits from??
which? The battery cover & fuel rail thing were made by a former member - no longer around.
I made up the RIP kit from a universal pipe kit (57mm) from AST on E-bay. The new fresh airpipe work is from revotek on Demon Tweeks with a universal 89mm 45 degree pipe from the web.e
As you may already know Niles has been making the MAF to turbo airpipe.
Post 456661 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-30 00:23:36
Took a some time to get all the dirt out of them - thank God for Iron X soap - it really helped getting rid of the "burnt on" black bits - even so took a good 90 minutes of elbow grease to get these new to me 18s up. The light was fading so I did a run to the nearest Shell - sorry about the shaky pic mind.
Let me know what you think. Personally I am not convinced.
Post 456667 by bubba_1986 on 2012-01-30 01:07:18
They look " flat " to me mate. Like flat and to big, does that make sense, the 19's stood out
Post 456670 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-30 01:28:36
Yep, they are not floating my boat as much as I thought they would.
Post 456695 by The Flying Moose on 2012-01-30 11:31:23
I think they look well Dave.
How do they compare on the road to the feel of your old wheels?
Post 456697 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-30 11:34:48
I weighed one of each & the OZ rims are 2kgs heavier than the Comets. So there's little to speak off. I haven't been any great distance yet. I am going to HLM today for a brake service (prior to Cadwell), so will let you know.
I have a mind to hold out for Nathan's 19s off his Victor, but as yet it is unclear if he is looking to sell them separately, without some standard rims to put it on.
Post 456744 by rikcougar on 2012-01-30 15:18:29
Love the look of those Dave, have to admit though, the 19`s on Victor are spectacular, as is the price probably
Has yours been lowered by much?
They might suit a very slightly different coloured car :smile:
Post 456775 by LiamT4 on 2012-01-30 16:49:01
Not as nice as your last ones, but they still look good.
Maybe better in a darker colour?
Post 457085 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-30 22:12:52
[quote=rikcougar;456744]Love the look of those Dave, have to admit though, the 19`s on Victor are spectacular, as is the price probably
Has yours been lowered by much?
They might suit a very slightly different coloured car :smile:[/quote]
Decided - assuming you are still interested to let you have them for the price I sent via PM? If that's still OK?
Post 457219 by rikcougar on 2012-01-31 12:20:51
Agreed Dave, pm answered, look forward to collecting them at Cadwell
Post 457224 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-31 13:35:45
Can I drop them with you at home on Friday?
Post 457227 by rikcougar on 2012-01-31 13:46:02
You can drop them off anytime you like Dave, just let me know when and I`ll pm you details
Post 457228 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-31 13:48:41
It will just make it easier for you to put them on for the following day I thought?
Post 457230 by rikcougar on 2012-01-31 13:51:06
Sounds good to me Dave, are you staying over in Louth on the Friday, don`t want you going out of your way
Post 457233 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-01-31 14:01:17
Yes - I am staying at the Beaumont.
Post 457234 by rikcougar on 2012-01-31 14:02:09
No probs then, I`ll pm you addy details, thanks mate
Post 476480 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-21 23:02:46
Well I have been doing some trial starts & tweaks to get ready for Avon Park. Yesterday - bit of a woosh too far...
Can't say I am overly impressed with Samco boost hoses.
Only 18 months of service or so. The OEM one that I put on is much thicker. Cheers to HLM for helping me find the leak. Would have been a mare without the smoke generator.
Post 476482 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-21 23:04:41
On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s
Post 476485 by M-R-P on 2012-03-21 23:08:09
[quote=Wobbly Dave;476480]Well I have been doing some trial starts & tweaks to get ready for Avon Park. Yesterday - bit of a woosh too far...
Can't say I am overly impressed with Samco boost hoses.
Only 18 months of service or so. The OEM one that I put on is much thicker. Cheers to HLM for helping me find the leak. Would have been a mare without the smoke generator.[/quote]
OOh! nasty split (ooh-err)
[quote=Wobbly Dave;476482]On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s[/quote]
Liking the rubber Dave but WTF? you always had such good taste in wheels ;) I hope they're for track use only lol.
Post 476494 by Dangerous Dave on 2012-03-21 23:15:18
[quote=martinrpeachey;476485]Liking the rubber Dave but WTF? you always had such good taste in wheels ;) I hope they're for track use only lol.[/quote]
Aren't they the native C70 ones?
Post 476496 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-21 23:18:36
those are canistos - what I bought to swap onto Victor-ia. Thought I would do something with them.
The rubber is just for track days to save my road tyres. I take it then you are not keen on the colour?
these are the same wheels that I used to have on Felicity (rest in pieces)
Post 476502 by M-R-P on 2012-03-21 23:26:07
It's not the colour (have you seen my recent refurb pics? Gay blue they weren't when I first sprayed them) It's the wheel itself. imho, not the best desigh Volvo came up with - about as dull as mine? (awaiting backlash for insulting what could very well be a very popular design of wheel)
Just my opinion tho :)
Post 476504 by LiamT4 on 2012-03-21 23:30:18
[quote=martinrpeachey;476502]It's not the colour (have you seen my recent refurb pics? Gay blue they weren't when I first sprayed them) It's the wheel itself. imho, not the best desigh Volvo came up with - about as dull as mine? (awaiting backlash for insulting what could very well be a very popular design of wheel)
Just my opinion tho :)[/quote]
Strange design, i never thought that much of them in pics. But they look better in the metal and look quite good on 850s, when they have been lowered a bit.
Post 476508 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-21 23:35:51
I was doing them up to sell. But I am not sure now.
Post 476516 by theflyingbrick on 2012-03-21 23:53:05
well i like em ;)
Post 476518 by M-R-P on 2012-03-21 23:56:24
We all have preferences. some think my ameltheas look nice, I think they look turd ;)
Post 478766 by jardon on 2012-03-29 08:46:43
[quote=Wobbly Dave;476482]On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s[/quote]
I like them in that darker colour. My car runs Amaltheas or 1.2's. The Amaltheas look a bit dull in silver but really nice in Anthracite. Good job - I may try RSR's when my AD08's give up.
Post 478767 by M-R-P on 2012-03-29 08:49:27
Jardon, I've heard about your ameltheas, any chance of a pic ?;)
Post 478843 by jardon on 2012-03-29 15:03:12
Sorry:
Post 478846 by M-R-P on 2012-03-29 15:10:08
Nice!
Respray for mine this weekend lol :)
Post 478887 by T5frankie on 2012-03-29 17:18:32
i think 850's look good with canistos
or s70's
Post 478901 by Kingsford G on 2012-03-29 17:45:10
Keep that baby mate shes looking good.Would look great in saffron gold though lol
Post 479142 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-30 01:11:51
Well I have picked them up today - you'll see 'em on Sunday - those lucky enough to have the time to come.
Post 479213 by Jamest5r on 2012-03-30 12:11:23
Your lucky mate I nearly had the other two away :)
Post 479215 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-03-30 12:18:44
I will happily hire them out by the hour ;)
LOL - don't you still owe me £30 quid for the "r-spec" that I gave away last night. ;)
Post 481814 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-05 01:01:25
Been an exciting week - especially today.
My Dad - gawd bless 'im - has sent me the final piece in the jigsaw for the RIP kit I made. If you read back a few pages - you will have seen that putting in a RIP kit on early ME7 is complicated by the saddle that holds the manifold pressure & temp sensors.
I bodged something from the original pipe, cut, shut, glued & pop riveted it together. It leaks oil - so the glue doesnt work (araldite). Well no more problems now. Machine cut from a solid block of aluminium - it sits perfectly on top of the pipe. My Dad has also cunningly engineered a brass sleave to hold the temp sensor. The pressure sensor is held in place with 3 screws and the whole thing is held on with instant gasket & 3 jubilees - which are screwed onto the block.
The temp sensor dips into the pipe at the same height as before - so it is a proper job.
I also now have my tool to create bead lips for any soft pipe - aluminimum or copper. Anyone having cut a length of such pipe & wanting a new lip creating can get in touch. I will be happy to oblige.
Post 481816 by bubba_1986 on 2012-04-05 01:06:34
Glad you got it sorted mate, pm me your email address so i can send that money
Post 481817 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-05 01:22:06
Aye wee man - you have a PM.
I will put the pipe in this weekend & let you know.
Post 481890 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-05 11:32:52
Obviously not as impressive as Claymore's bonnet :cry:
Post 481898 by M-R-P on 2012-04-05 11:55:57
Mmm, nice Dave, very shiny ;)
Post 483108 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-07 23:37:00
Got to fix up the cut parts of my RIP kit with the new tool!
Check this out!!
Post 483179 by smithy on 2012-04-08 10:55:23
[quote=Wobbly Dave;483108]Got to fix up the cut parts of my RIP kit with the new tool!
Check this out!![/quote]
more shinny stuff enjoy mate lol.when you getting new block for rebuild mate
Post 483207 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-08 12:44:40
No the point was to show how I can now create pipe beads.
Post 483509 by smithy on 2012-04-08 23:16:06
[quote=Wobbly Dave;483207]No the point was to show how I can now create pipe beads.[/quote]
i know it was a joke mate lol
Post 483513 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-08 23:25:56
:hidesbehi:
ooops
Post 483540 by Dangerous Dave on 2012-04-08 23:47:41
Dave you seriously need to get a workbench :D
Post 483545 by M-R-P on 2012-04-08 23:52:41
Quite a mighty tool you have there Dave...:eek:
Post 483546 by deathrider311271 on 2012-04-08 23:52:48
The new pipe looks good Dave, so is it worth doing this mod on the ME7? any real noticable difference?
Simon
Post 486883 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-15 23:37:45
Cut out 50cm out of my turbo pipework - its argueable that this makes a difference. I liked it because it was something I made & now with the engineering from my father - I don't mind if it only makes a nominal improvement.
Post 486891 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-15 23:51:02
Bit of a detailing today (including the wife's). Since I had my rear arches rolled - the shut line on the rear bumper & 3/4 panel was abissmal & I finally fixed it today. Cable ties were used in an ingenious fashion to make up for the lack of support from the cut wheel arch liners.
Post 486895 by M-R-P on 2012-04-15 23:59:36
Very nice and shiney dave. Is there a reason Mrs. Wobbly's car only got the one pic? ;)
Post 486898 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-16 00:07:32
The other one I did was out of focus. Plus it was only intended as a bonus shot. - No disrespect to the S40 diesel - just serviced it on Friday at HLM.
Post 486900 by M-R-P on 2012-04-16 00:12:28
lol ;)
no T5 tho is it dave,
The 40 does look nice when it's all clean and sparkley :) That blue is really "deep" looking, with the light on it.
Post 486903 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-04-16 00:32:26
Spent ages getting it good when we bought it. Needs a spring clean - strip back, minor polish, glaze - to get it really good. Dark colours are more rewarding - but not many people I know can get a reflection in silver paint ;)
Post 538066 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-09-24 02:03:42
Bit of an update - not done one for a while.
Good stuff...
recently spent 700 quid on elective paintwork treatments. 2 wheel arches needed sorting out (one of the downsides from rolling my arches a few years back) and the front valence which has been letting the whole car down. I tried to fix my rear bumper with some wet sanding. Sadly I was not entirely successful - so they did that as well. Made a huge difference to the overall appearance.
Bad stuff
Sniffer test has confirmed that the current engine is now burning water (suspect head gasket?). The car still manages to go well enough - and this water consumption has been going on for a while. I have put in some K-Stop and it seems to have temporarily stopped the issue from getting any worse. I can't complain given that the current block has done 176K. Thankfully I don't have to worry about commuting with the car & we have the S40 to get about.
I guess if I was to call it a day with the current car then now would be a good time - but I am never going to see very much of the money so I am pushing on with the new engine.
Engine is clean & bored out to fit the wiseco pistons. I have the S60R manifold in place to be used for the new turbo which will probably be a garrett GT or GTX series.
The new turbo may yet have to be put on hold - obviously I need an engine pretty soon so the direct swap to the current 19T setup would buy some time if I want to continue to use the car.
The ugly stuff...
The wife is a little bit bemused about the fact I have not built any of the engine, despite having bought a large cleaning tank & engine stand - the fact is I am a bit scared of getting it wrong, particularly with the VVT exhaust port timing. So maybe I am not as mechanically minded as I would like to think. I messed up removing 5 of the head bolts - so the same company that did the bores (PICS BELOW) also did the rounded headbolts. I have asked them now to re-assemble. Is that the wrong thing to do?
Post 538071 by stribo on 2012-09-24 06:36:48
No mate, good call. Having spoken to the Volvo trained mechanic that changed the VVT unit on the R, he said it was a real PITA to time it up, and it took him a couple of attempts.
Post 538092 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-09-24 11:25:05
I could just jack it in & save my pennies towards a natty little Aston Martin on the trader. I have probably spent at least the value of the A/M over the years on tweaks, repairs & upgrades. However I'd still be scared of using or putting it on a track. Even with a FHT C70 T5 - I'd still feel obliged to start tinkering.
Post 538094 by JUDGENINJA on 2012-09-24 12:01:37
Go for the Aston!!
Like my mate who runs and plays with a R32 Skyline..."It's just a car"..
Post 538099 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-09-24 12:24:19
I think I still want something that if I crash into a wall (on a track day & lose everything).
1. I would feel relatively safe
2. I wouldn't feel to bad about it (just buy another one and move the parts).
It is however a bit weird that when you consider that out of the Volvo corale at Trax (camping the night before) - My C70 & Smiffy's S40 were the newest ones there?!
Post 539694 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-04 00:02:56
Well slowly but surely things are coming together. Just a couple of shots of the new engine block almost full assembled - just the timing belt & VVT cam to go on.
I have been very impressed with the work at Motorcast - so thanks to Colin & Paul for the local knowledge/recommendation. They have clean up everything including the t-stat housing - pressure tested the oil cooler; made their own crank locking tool (spot it on the picture); reworked the head; set up all the tappits. The attention to detail is amazing.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17190[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17191[/ATTACH]
Just need to get a turbo sorted.
Post 539698 by M-R-P on 2012-10-04 00:12:53
Wow, bloody good work there, you must be peased.
One question... No S60R manifold?
Post 539702 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-04 00:25:20
Bought an S60R - it is bent/warped - so it's going back. To be fair it is only marginally bent - but too much so for it to sit properly. Motorcast said they could grind it, but I am not spending all this money for it not to be 100% right.
You may have seen on the other thread I have been scouring the world for a decent manifold - tubular or cast to try to marry up to a garrett gt or gtx turbo.
Post 539709 by MoleT-5R on 2012-10-04 04:50:57
nice job, engine's looking sparkling, bet you can't wait for fire up day...?
Post 539715 by claymore on 2012-10-04 07:27:26
I have a manifold you can use, as long as you replace it when you find another, I won't need it till January.
Post 539735 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-04 10:07:24
Appreciate the offer Colin - I will make a final decision based on which turbo I can get.
Post 539768 by Jamest5r on 2012-10-04 13:43:29
Very nice Dave :)
Can't complain about your old engine concidering the abuse you gave it, so when you going to fit it?
Post 539774 by V70 Graham on 2012-10-04 14:37:19
Does look a very nice engine Dave, look forward to seeing it fitted.
Post 539780 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-04 15:34:05
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;539768]Very nice Dave :)
Can't complain about your old engine concidering the abuse you gave it, so when you going to fit it?[/QUOTE]
Nah it just a shame that it looks like it is on its way (or at least the H/G is) - as this puts an unwanted time pressure on the engine swap.
Engine should be ready by the middle of next week at the latest. Then I need to find some willing volunteers to help me swap it out.
My plan is to leave the existing map & turbo in situ & use the old engine to mock up the turbo swap.
Post 539786 by T5frankie on 2012-10-04 16:28:17
just put a 15g on then mate :wow:
Post 539789 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-04 17:11:51
[QUOTE=t5frankie;539786]just put a 15g on then mate :wow:[/QUOTE]
otherwise Frankie will never win?
Post 543180 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-21 23:56:59
Tomorrow is "E-day" - no I am not going on some 24hr rav binge - the new engine is going in. Got 2 days off work to get this new engine swapped over.
Post 543181 by Dangerous Dave on 2012-10-21 23:59:38
Sweet! Bet you can't wait Dave.
Post 543184 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-22 00:19:50
I am just praying it all comes together, without too many dramas.
Post 543185 by smithy on 2012-10-22 00:28:26
What about the turbo mate
Post 543188 by munster732 on 2012-10-22 05:17:23
A man of your calibre will have it in and runnin in no time mate.
Post 543198 by V70 Graham on 2012-10-22 08:39:30
Looking forward to the updates.....
Post 543205 by T5frankie on 2012-10-22 10:01:40
Good luck Dave
Post 543223 by stribo on 2012-10-22 13:31:51
Hope it all goes well for you Dave.
Post 543351 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-23 00:15:58
Day 1 - completed. Bit of a late start (11-ish). Engine not entirely out but nearly ready to drop.
All the induction kit off, shiny bits off, battery off, strut brace off,
Rad pack (narrow clearance with the 3" nissens FMIC) is out - bit tricky that, as I did not remove the front cowling/bumper.
d/p off;
fluid out (oil, coolant, G/Box emptied, PAS)
half shafts out
cabin heater hoses off,
gearbox cleared off (loom & cables)
Loom is all but finished - just need to disconnect the starter motor.
Few other minor bits to check but we will suspend the engine & remove the subframe.
Once off - the plan is to drop the engine onto a trolley and move it onto a suitable bench to start the swap process.
I don't think 2 days will be enough.
Post 543353 by smithy on 2012-10-23 00:19:05
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543351]Day 1 - completed. Bit of a late start (11-ish). Engine not entirely out but nearly ready to drop.
All the induction kit off, shiny bits off, battery off, strut brace off,
Rad pack (narrow clearance with the 3" nissens FMIC) is out - bit tricky that, as I did not remove the front cowling/bumper.
d/p off;
fluid out (oil, coolant, G/Box emptied, PAS)
half shafts out
cabin heater hoses off,
gearbox cleared off (loom & cables)
Loom is all but finished - just need to disconnect the starter motor.
Few other minor bits to check but we will suspend the engine & remove the subframe.
Once off - the plan is to drop the engine onto a trolley and move it onto a suitable bench to start the swap process.
I don't think 2 days will be enough.[/QUOTE]
Are you getting the turbo sorted at the same time that should only be a 48hr turn around mate.im glad your getting it sorted and how's doing it
Post 543354 by V70 Graham on 2012-10-23 00:23:31
Sounds like you have a job on your hands, take your time Dave, hope all goes well.
Post 543355 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-23 00:23:44
Turning the turbo around tomorrow - most likely using a 16T until the engine is bedded in.
Post 543356 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-23 00:24:42
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;543354]Sounds like you have a job on your hands, take your time Dave, hope all goes well.[/QUOTE]
working on a 2 poster with access to air tools makes a big difference.
Post 543357 by smithy on 2012-10-23 00:32:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543355]Turning the turbo around tomorrow - most likely using a 16T until the engine is bedded in.[/QUOTE]
That's a good idea who said that idea because then you can mod the other turbo then .weldone dave keep up the good work mate and keep intouch you miserable sod lol
Post 543365 by T5frankie on 2012-10-23 06:17:18
Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change
Post 543396 by smithy on 2012-10-23 15:30:49
[QUOTE=t5frankie;543365]Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change[/QUOTE]
You can change an engine in 7 hrs max dropping engine out of bottom mate
Post 543398 by M-R-P on 2012-10-23 15:54:26
world record for changing an engine is something like 40 seconds, set on a MKII escort rally car in the '70s :D
Post 543400 by smithy on 2012-10-23 16:03:13
[QUOTE=M-R-P;543398]world record for changing an engine is something like 40 seconds, set on a MKII escort rally car in the '70s :D[/QUOTE]
Everything is quick release on those cars though mate and the 940 2 hrs lol
Post 543401 by T5frankie on 2012-10-23 16:43:15
[QUOTE=smithy;543396]You can change an engine in 7 hrs max dropping engine out of bottom mate[/QUOTE]
really so why did it take you 3 months to do mine? :rotfl:
Post 543405 by M-R-P on 2012-10-23 17:17:08
[QUOTE=smithy;543400]Everything is quick release on those cars though mate and the 940 2 hrs lol[/QUOTE]
And I've eaten burgers bigger than the engine in a MKII pmsl.
Post 543406 by p fandango on 2012-10-23 17:25:12
[QUOTE=M-R-P;543405]And I've eaten burgers bigger than the engine in a MKII pmsl.[/QUOTE]
probably more powerful as well lol
Post 543408 by smithy on 2012-10-23 17:54:44
[QUOTE=t5frankie;543401]really so why did it take you 3 months to do mine? :rotfl:[/QUOTE]
Work and kids lol but you still got it back done and I also did not just do the engine and I was on my own too numpty
Post 543481 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-23 21:37:16
[QUOTE=t5frankie;543365]Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change[/QUOTE]
No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.
Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.
Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.
Post 543487 by jardon on 2012-10-23 21:49:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543481]No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.
Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.
Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.[/QUOTE]
It took me a week to change my front calipers. Well done on the job so far - don't set yourself an ambitious schedule.
Post 543488 by T5frankie on 2012-10-23 21:55:04
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543481]No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.
Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.
Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.[/QUOTE]
rope claymore in lol
Post 543509 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-23 23:34:26
I haven't left myself enough time to do this. Can't get anymore time off work to complete it, this week. Feeling a bit under pressure to get Betsy out of the way (even in semi-completed state). So I need to pull my finger out and get her back to a rolling state tomorrow.
Post 543517 by smithy on 2012-10-24 01:06:43
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543509]I haven't left myself enough time to do this. Can't get anymore time off work to complete it, this week. Feeling a bit under pressure to get Betsy out of the way (even in semi-completed state). So I need to pull my finger out and get her back to a rolling state tomorrow.[/QUOTE]
Good luck dave
Post 543617 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-24 23:21:38
Yes - well its silver-lining cloud day today. Got to the gearbox swap just before lunch (with all the other bits transferred). The issue is the Sach's clutch friction plate is nominal (less than 2mm off the rivets). Rather than ploughing on to the finish line (ramp was needed) by COP today - and then redoing the clutch at a later date - I have decided to wait for a new plate. On the upside this means there is enough time to send the 19T off to get it reworked.
I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17332[/ATTACH]
Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.
Post 543632 by smithy on 2012-10-25 00:31:33
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543617]Yes - well its silver-lining cloud day today. Got to the gearbox swap just before lunch (with all the other bits transferred). The issue is the Sach's clutch friction plate is nominal (less than 2mm off the rivets). Rather than ploughing on to the finish line (ramp was needed) by COP today - and then redoing the clutch at a later date - I have decided to wait for a new plate. On the upside this means there is enough time to send the 19T off to get it reworked.
I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17332[/ATTACH]
Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.[/QUOTE]
Best to wait and get it right mate than doing it again and again .get the turbo sorted and the new plate in and when it's finished you can enjoy mate.and I recognise that place mate were your car is.
Post 543633 by M-R-P on 2012-10-25 00:38:36
Me too and I've only seen it in pictures lol.
Post 543651 by Dangerous Dave on 2012-10-25 09:57:12
Nice one Dave!
Love the pic :D Perhaps some kind of electric shock method instead of the accelerator 'stick'?
Post 543653 by Nealevo on 2012-10-25 10:17:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;543617]
I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17332[/ATTACH]
Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.[/QUOTE]
Best place for Tom.. In a caged environment!!!
Post 543659 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-10-25 10:59:52
[QUOTE=bomb192uk;543651]Nice one Dave!
Love the pic :D Perhaps some kind of electric shock method instead of the accelerator 'stick'?[/QUOTE]
I see - sticking with the electronic rather than the manual throttle.
Post 543660 by Dangerous Dave on 2012-10-25 11:14:49
Yep, though the software update might cost a bit...
Post 545986 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-08 12:41:07
I have changed my mind about clipping the 19T - so it will be up for sale soon.
I love it when things I've spent ages thinking about come together, particularly when they arrive.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17419[/ATTACH]
T3 headache solved - no manifold welding required.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17420[/ATTACH]
5 bolt - V-band adapter should make it fairly easy to adapt my current 3 bolt d/p
I am more than a little bit excited about this now.
More parts/secrets will be revealed later.
Post 545987 by M-R-P on 2012-11-08 12:52:15
Lovely shiny things there Dave.
I can't help thinking though, You may be a little past needing a Haynes book of lies to assist you in your efforts. When looking up info on the turbo in my Haynes, all it says it refer to main dealer :D
Post 545990 by bubba_1986 on 2012-11-08 13:09:55
Dave sent you a pm mate :-)
Post 545995 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-08 13:23:06
I had thought originally going for this option
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17421[/ATTACH]
with a secondary "screamer" pipe...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17422[/ATTACH]
but I think that may be a bit OTT for my application. The idea being the back wash pressure from the main exhaust gas will interfere with the operation of the swing W/G valve, but given that I would have to rejoin the secondary back to the d/p before the cat (so that the 02 sensor gets a proper reading) I didnt feel it worth the hassle. Well that's my theory.
So instead the v-band option seemed easier to deal with...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17423[/ATTACH]
Post 545997 by M-R-P on 2012-11-08 13:24:45
Aren't screamer pipes banned from road and track use?
Post 545999 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-08 13:32:06
Yes I believe true screamer pipes are. Mine would have been something like this...
Post 546009 by jardon on 2012-11-08 14:32:49
Awesomeness - how much extra would it cost to go with the screamer pipe option? I've been reading about the down sides of wastegated gases merging immediately in the turbine. I half understood it.
Post 546012 by T5frankie on 2012-11-08 14:39:45
I'd better pull my finger out lol
Post 546016 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-08 15:11:30
[QUOTE=jardon;546009]Awesomeness - how much extra would it cost to go with the screamer pipe option? I've been reading about the down sides of wastegated gases merging immediately in the turbine. I half understood it.[/QUOTE]
I think the principle would be that as the exhaust gases leave the turbo, there could be a tendancy for that back pressure to push the swing valve shut - making the actuator less able to control the wastegate. As far as I can tell the separation of the main flow & the W/G flow will only work if you have a proper screamer pipe, which does not re-join the main d/p.
I would have to find someone to custom weld the pipes up & TBH having them join up 6 inches further down doesn't seem worth it, plus the V-band option gives greater flexibility when it comes to orientation of the d/p flange. Lobbing off the old 3 bolt flange & tig welding the 3" V-band adaptor is relatively easy.
If Betsy was a race car then I might have gone the other way.
The fact the WG is somewhat separate from the main flow will have to do.
Post 546035 by jardon on 2012-11-08 17:50:57
I think you're right - maybe not much gain in having the pipe join a few inches away.
Post 546076 by WOODY T5 on 2012-11-08 19:07:50
Very nice Dave wot map u going for then?
Post 546081 by T5frankie on 2012-11-08 19:12:28
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;546076]Very nice Dave wot map u going for then?[/QUOTE]
thats where he gets stuck lol
Post 546192 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-08 21:57:28
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;546076]Very nice Dave wot map u going for then?[/QUOTE] i think it'll be quite conservative to start with. i have a snabb tcv and we'll see how well the boost can be controlled. main issue is the speed the ecu can react with the car equivalent of windows 3.11
Post 549195 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-21 00:58:23
Well - I have finally bolted the V-band housing onto the turbine housing & bolted the whole thing together. What can I say... it's quite big!!
Main issue is finding the time to fettle it all. I need to sort out the circular lip on the manifold - get the CHRA properly orientated. Then I can start getting the oil feeds etc sorted - and get an actuator for it.
Long way to go yet!
Post 549289 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-21 19:39:29
Sent the S60R manifold to be skimmed and have the flange flattened today. I notice that ATP do a special flange conversion for the T3 to all for the raised ring - but it'll be more expensive to import, than to have the machining done.
I am more disappointed no-one has said owt about the new blower.. :cry:
Post 549290 by T5frankie on 2012-11-21 19:41:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;549289]Sent the S60R manifold to be skimmed and have the flange flattened today. I notice that ATP do a special flange conversion for the T3 to all for the raised ring - but it'll be more expensive to import, than to have the machining done.
I am more disappointed no-one has said owt about the new blower.. :cry:[/QUOTE]
its cos we is all jealous, couldnt just get a gt3071 no you had to get its replacement the gtx, i for one am very jealous, and i'm saving
Post 549292 by claymore on 2012-11-21 19:48:20
your water and oil feed pipes should line up Dave, it's just the oil return you have to 'fettle', looks like a nice turbo :)
Post 549294 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-21 20:02:22
[QUOTE=t5frankie;549290]its cos we is all jealous, couldnt just get a gt3071 no you had to get its replacement the gtx, i for one am very jealous, and i'm saving[/QUOTE]
Cost me more than most of the car's on here.
Post 549295 by T5frankie on 2012-11-21 20:05:34
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;549294]Cost me more than most of the car's on here.[/QUOTE]
you flogging your 19t now then? i need an angled housing :-)
Post 549299 by Jamest5r on 2012-11-21 20:13:26
You got a new turbo Dave? sorry must of missed it lol :)
Post 549300 by claymore on 2012-11-21 20:16:01
so, how much power do you expect at the end of all this?
Post 549303 by T5frankie on 2012-11-21 20:25:24
[QUOTE=claymore;549300]so, how much power do you expect at the end of all this?[/QUOTE]
450bhp
Post 549304 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-21 20:34:06
More than I had before - fingers crossed. I have certain project goals that I would like to make. 13.2 seconds on the 1/4. Be able to do 2 - 3 track days a year without serious problems (a modicum of reliability) - sub 5 seconds to 60.
Having done the maths if I can make and hold around 450 - 500 NM - the peak figures will take care of themselves. Same torque curve as before - just more of it.
400 horses has a nice ring to it - but that's a big leap from where I am now - another 25% leap.
Post 549306 by Jamest5r on 2012-11-21 20:37:38
Dave, just to save yourself a couple of days of pointless trying dont bother to try and map it through the tcv it will never cope,
Post 549310 by T5frankie on 2012-11-21 20:59:47
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;549304]More than I had before - fingers crossed. I have certain project goals that I would like to make. 13.2 seconds on the 1/4. Be able to do 2 - 3 track days a year without serious problems (a modicum of reliability) - sub 5 seconds to 60.
Having done the maths if I can make and hold around 450 - 500 NM - the peak figures will take care of themselves. Same torque curve as before - just more of it.
400 horses has a nice ring to it - but that's a big leap from where I am now - another 25% leap.[/QUOTE]
450nms? is what a 19t has mine was 478nms, so i'm sure you can expect alot more than that
Post 549311 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-21 21:05:07
Yes but it didnt push & hold that. Point being that you have to have the RPM & the torque at the right points to make the power.
Need to push it & keep that rotational force going. The shape of the torque curve is what I am interested in. Peak figs only tell 1/2 the story.
Post 549329 by Volvostorm on 2012-11-21 22:21:47
[QUOTE=claymore;549292]your water and oil feed pipes should line up Dave, it's just the oil return you have to 'fettle', looks like a nice turbo :)[/QUOTE]
None of mine did, had to make up all the pipes :rolleyes2
Post 549386 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-22 10:16:00
until I get chance to line it up - I am not sure. Hopefully get some time on Saturday, though the pug 205 club are doing a RR day - so Hamish is gonna be a bit busy.
Post 550476 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-26 23:33:38
Aside the court case today - I did manage to get some positive things today. The S60R manifold has been ground down to fit the T3 housing.
Compressor housing meant that the water return banjo pipe needed "manipulating" - but the oil feed & water feed were quite easy to get into position - just a couple of minor tweaks. Volvo outlet union works too.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19454[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19455[/ATTACH]
Only issues today - one of the manifold studs snapped off in the head :'( - hopefully the head can remain in place to get the offending stud out.
Now the orientation of the turbo is sorted - I can send the turbo back to have the actuator fitted. Still got the oil return to the sump to fabricate.
Stud holes on the T3 flange are larger than the old 19 - so there may yet be a bit more machine work needed to put in larger studs into the manifold, plus the T3 flange is not threaded at all - any suggestions as to the best method?
Post 550478 by smithy on 2012-11-26 23:53:25
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;550476]Aside the court case today - I did manage to get some positive things today. The S60R manifold has been ground down to fit the T3 housing.
Compressor housing meant that the water return banjo pipe needed "manipulating" - but the oil feed & water feed were quite easy to get into position - just a couple of minor tweaks. Volvo outlet union works too.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19454[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19455[/ATTACH]
Only issues today - one of the manifold studs snapped off in the head :'( - hopefully the head can remain in place to get the offending stud out.
Now the orientation of the turbo is sorted - I can send the turbo back to have the actuator fitted. Still got the oil return to the sump to fabricate.
Stud holes on the T3 flange are larger than the old 19 - so there may yet be a bit more machine work needed to put in larger studs into the manifold, plus the T3 flange is not threaded at all - any suggestions as to the best method?[/QUOTE]
Get a tap set mate and tap some holes in the flange and then get some studs of the same size and thread.if you cannot get that then get a threaded bar and cut that to size to make the studs.if you need a tap set I have one you can use.
Post 550483 by T5frankie on 2012-11-27 06:18:47
And cover that top hole on the Turbo
Post 550636 by Volvostorm on 2012-11-27 20:47:38
Think I remember why I had to make up new lines for my GT3071R, it wasn't the hard pipes that gave the trouble, the banjo's are a different size!
Also, check the oil feed in has a 1mm restricter in it, as BB turbos need less oil going through them, you can see the restricter by looking down the hole where the oil feed attaches, I was also advised to put an in-line oil filter in the feed.
Post 550688 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-11-27 22:28:22
[QUOTE=Pault5estate;550636]Think I remember why I had to make up new lines for my GT3071R, it wasn't the hard pipes that gave the trouble, the banjo's are a different size!
Also, check the oil feed in has a 1mm restricter in it, as BB turbos need less oil going through them, you can see the restricter by looking down the hole where the oil feed attaches, I was also advised to put an in-line oil filter in the feed.[/QUOTE]
I will take that up with turbo dynamics. They have to fit the actuator & tap a hole in the compressor housing. I plan to go back to motorcast to get a proper setup for mating the turbine housing with the manifold.
Post 550739 by lance on 2012-11-28 09:01:24
Can't wait for you to overtake me again when I have cooked my brakes please keep the tune mild for the feb track day so I can show you how much more 34 bhp makes ;-)
Post 551650 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-01 21:36:25
Well the turbo is back from turbo dynamics. The actuator is fitted now & they have tapped a hole in the compressor housing & fitted a brass junction. TD have also supplied a restrictor & a flange for the oil return.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19518[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19517[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19516[/ATTACH]
Sadly I found out that the water & oil feed banjos - even though they reach are not the right size. Some more fabrication will be needed. Good news is the oil return feed is the same size as the volvo one. Once everything is back on the car I should know how long to make it.
Post 551658 by Jamest5r on 2012-12-01 21:47:55
What actuator you go for Dave?
Post 551671 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-01 22:12:44
its that round shiny thing with the bar hanging out of it. derrr!
Post 551725 by merc85 on 2012-12-01 23:56:49
is that turbo not going to fowel the firewall/bulkhead??
Post 551749 by jardon on 2012-12-02 10:30:32
It's coming along there Dave - looks tidy. My thoughts on the actuator are that it may be necessary to get something adjustable when it comes to mapping. For instance to run 1.5 bar you may need a 1.5+ bar spring but there are so many variables when it comes to exhaust back pressure etc. What injectors are you going to fit?
Post 551753 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-02 11:00:56
[QUOTE=merc85;551725]is that turbo not going to fowel the firewall/bulkhead??[/QUOTE] There are already t5 volvo's out there running GT3071/76 turbos. Paul on here has one. I am not unduly concerned about clearance. If there are issues then a lump hammer/grinder mods may be deployed ;)
Post 551758 by stribo on 2012-12-02 11:28:35
[COLOR="#FF0000"][/COLOR][QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;551753]There are already t5 volvo's out there running GT3071/76 turbos. Paul on here has one.[COLOR="#FF0000"] I am not unduly concerned about clearance. If there are issues then a lump hammer/grinder mods may be deployed ;)[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
You can't beat precision engineering. :P
Post 551761 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-02 11:37:11
[QUOTE=stribo;551758]
You can't beat precision engineering. :P[/QUOTE]
main differences in the GTX is in the CHRA internals and the billet wheel. housing size is similar AFAIK.
Post 551763 by merc85 on 2012-12-02 11:41:24
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;551753]There are already t5 volvo's out there running GT3071/76 turbos. Paul on here has one. I am not unduly concerned about clearance. If there are issues then a lump hammer/grinder mods may be deployed ;)[/QUOTE]
Yeah i know there is just didnt know if you were going to have to modifiy or knew of a certain way you was going go about doing it?
Its gonna be a animal for sure lol
Post 551764 by p fandango on 2012-12-02 12:11:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;551753]There are already t5 volvo's out there running GT3071/76 turbos[/QUOTE]
are any of them non-850's?
Post 551772 by smithy on 2012-12-02 12:52:04
[QUOTE=merc85;551763]Yeah i know there is just didnt know if you were going to have to modifiy or knew of a certain way you was going go about doing it?
Its gonna be a animal for sure lol[/QUOTE]
Still wont catch my old tech 940 though
Post 551773 by stribo on 2012-12-02 12:55:28
[QUOTE=smithy;551772]Still wont catch my old tech 940 though[/QUOTE]
Is that your 140 bhp 940, that isn't on the road?:saythat:
Post 551775 by smithy on 2012-12-02 13:05:06
[QUOTE=stribo;551773]Is that your 140 bhp 940, that isn't on the road?:saythat:[/QUOTE]
Yes but it will be very soon doing loads of work on it over Xmas and I will have my brakes by then too .and everyone will beat me in the new season because I'm running stock ecus but next winter I go standalone l and then things will change lol
Post 551776 by jardon on 2012-12-02 13:07:19
[QUOTE=stribo;551773]Is that your 140 bhp 940, that isn't on the road?:saythat:[/QUOTE]
It's what I was thinking. Come on Smithy and Pedro - get your acts together. I'll bet Daves is on the road first.
Post 551777 by smithy on 2012-12-02 13:09:15
[QUOTE=jardon;551776]It's what I was thinking. Come on Smithy and Pedro - get your acts together. I'll bet Daves is on the road first.[/QUOTE]
Feb mine will be running and then running the old 8v in
Post 551778 by jardon on 2012-12-02 13:10:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;551753]If there are issues then a lump hammer/grinder mods may be deployed ;)[/QUOTE]
Pedro is handy with a grinder.
Post 551779 by jardon on 2012-12-02 13:12:23
[QUOTE=smithy;551777]Feb mine will be running and then running the old 8v in[/QUOTE]
Right we are - looking forward to seeing it in action.
Pedro?
Post 551781 by smithy on 2012-12-02 13:17:32
[QUOTE=jardon;551779]Right we are - looking forward to seeing it in action.
Pedro?[/QUOTE]
It will be mate I miss turbo power but my car has been running before and was pushing 265whp and 470nm torque only at 4200 rpm and at 16 psi on a t38 but now a t4
Post 551803 by p fandango on 2012-12-02 16:52:10
[QUOTE=jardon;551779]Pedro?[/QUOTE]
i've gave up setting targets & deadlines. I've got all the bits for my gearbox, rear brakes just need connecting up & got got a few other little jobs to do. Main issue now is funds for the Turbo Tuner so i can get the fuelling right
Post 551808 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-02 17:13:13
[QUOTE=p fandango;551764]are any of them non-850's?[/QUOTE]
Yes there was a P2 V70 on Volvospeed. Granted not everything is 100% certain, but nothing ever is.
Post 551809 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-02 17:25:53
[QUOTE=jardon;551749]It's coming along there Dave - looks tidy. My thoughts on the actuator are that it may be necessary to get something adjustable when it comes to mapping. For instance to run 1.5 bar you may need a 1.5+ bar spring but there are so many variables when it comes to exhaust back pressure etc. What injectors are you going to fit?[/QUOTE]
Currently I have greens. I will see have to see - tuning is a bit off (though always in my mind). The actuator is 1 bar.
Post 552036 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-03 11:57:26
[QUOTE=stribo;551758]
You can't beat precision engineering. :P[/QUOTE]
Yep, mine had a bulkhead massage, with a big hammer!, mainly to move the heat shielding a bit
Post 552037 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-03 12:09:45
Looks like mine will need similar treatment. Who made up your oil feed lines?
Post 552076 by jardon on 2012-12-03 17:52:48
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;551809]Currently I have greens. I will see have to see - tuning is a bit off (though always in my mind). The actuator is 1 bar.[/QUOTE]
Fair do's - be careful running that turbo on greens as it will run out of fuelling. My set up is the same as yours (bar the turbo) and greens neither greens or VXR's are up to the job - even with a Walbro (or equivalent). With a stock pump and VXR's I had no oomph above 4000 rpm. My 650's currently run a peak duty of 80% and I would anticipate you could use that 20% up easily with this turbo. Alan (Barnsley Bill) runs 750's on his 2871 equipped ME7. Alan also needed to wire his pump directly to the battery via a relay (as I now have) as he was lean at WOT in 4th. With the stock stock loom you lose 1 volt (which is ~7% pump capacity at 13 volts). Stock ME7 fuelling is poor in high power applications as there is no way for the system to increase fuel pressure. 1 bar actuator sounds like a sensible place to start - if it were me I'd have some other options up my sleeve for mapping as it would be annoying to be limited by such a simple piece of hardware.
Post 552084 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-03 17:59:39
I am mindful of injector duty cycle & fuel pressure but we are going to tune cautiously and build it up step by step. If I need s stronger spring/actuator then I will just have to get one. Slowly slowly catchy monkey, if you catch my drift.
Are you using the Deatschwerks 300 Series?
Post 552086 by stribo on 2012-12-03 18:13:56
Doesn't the S60R/V70R use greens? if so surely they'd be up for the job. As you say Dave, as long as the map is correct for the specified injector duty cycle wise.
Post 552087 by T5frankie on 2012-12-03 18:24:08
[QUOTE=stribo;552086]Doesn't the S60R/V70R use greens? if so surely they'd be up for the job. As you say Dave, as long as the map is correct for the specified injector duty cycle wise.[/QUOTE]
no no he needs much bigger injectors at least 650's i would of though
Post 552088 by stribo on 2012-12-03 18:27:27
What power is he/ are you aiming for?
Post 552090 by T5frankie on 2012-12-03 18:32:18
[QUOTE=stribo;552088]What power is he/ are you aiming for?[/QUOTE]
he can get 450bhp from that turbo
Post 552091 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-03 18:32:52
more than I had before
Post 552095 by T5frankie on 2012-12-03 18:37:31
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;552091]more than I had before[/QUOTE]
and maybe he can get some torque this time lol
Post 552096 by stribo on 2012-12-03 18:38:34
[QUOTE=t5frankie;552090]he can get 450bhp from that turbo[/QUOTE]
Yeah, but what about the rest of the engine. :P
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;552091]more than I had before[/QUOTE]
I should hope so. ;)
Post 552104 by LiamT4 on 2012-12-03 18:45:48
[QUOTE=stribo;552086]Doesn't the S60R/V70R use greens? if so surely they'd be up for the job. As you say Dave, as long as the map is correct for the specified injector duty cycle wise.[/QUOTE]
The turbo he's using can give MUCH more power than the one in the s60/v70r, so he'll need much bigger injectors.
Post 552105 by T5frankie on 2012-12-03 18:47:43
[QUOTE=stribo;552086]Doesn't the S60R/V70R use greens? if so surely they'd be up for the job. As you say Dave, as long as the map is correct for the specified injector duty cycle wise.[/QUOTE]
i have greens in my s70r
Post 552135 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-03 20:10:52
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;552037]Looks like mine will need similar treatment. Who made up your oil feed lines?[/QUOTE]
Made them myself, not hard to do, once you work out what size you need.
Used this for the oil feed
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-4-8mm-3-16-Stainless-Braided-Teflon-Hose-3m-/160610503864?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256521ccb8
Water feed is AN -08
Oil return is AN -12
[QUOTE=t5frankie;552087]no no he needs much bigger injectors at least 650's i would of though[/QUOTE]
I will be using Siemen Deka 630cc once mine is run in, at the moment its on blues/
Post 552161 by jardon on 2012-12-03 21:11:02
P2 ME7 fuelling is returnless and fixed pressure - utterly different to P2.5 T5's, P1's and all R models. This means fuel pressure at WOT is the same as at idle - 3.8 bar. At 1.4 bar boost the net fuel pressure is 3.8 - 1.4 = 2.4 bar in P2 ME7 T5's like mine and Dave's.
In a P1 car there is a fuel pressure regulator attached to the inlet manifold which adds fuel pressure in line with boost pressure so at 1.4 bar boost you have 3.0 + 1.4 = 4.4 bar fuel pressure. The later T5's and S60R have ecu controlled fuel pressure which again compensates for the loss of flow on boost.
The system I and Dave have is cheap and simple but requires disproportionately large injectors to acheive the fuel flow necessary for higher outputs.
It's hard to put a power figure on it as it will depend on target AFR but a stock stage 2 is the sensible ceiling for these cars as any more air flow (bigger turbo etc) will quickly overwhelm the stock fuel pump and injectors - greens included.
Greens are fine on mapped S60R's making 350+ BHP because the fuel pressure takes care of flow. Ditto within reason on P1 cars.
To date I am happy with my RC Engineering injectors but I hear good and bad about them in terms of potential for leaking and spray pattern. They do have volume of use on their side in terms of mapping as they very popular. If mine were to become problematic I would consider Siemens or Deka too but as all injectors have a specific dead time it might not be as simple as swapping without adjusting software. In Dave's position I would seek advice from the mapper (Autotech?) on what they like to use in a potential 450 BHP car of this model year.
Sorry for the long post but all is not as it would appear with injector capability and fuelling across the Volvo range and I'm not sure it's common knowledge. Typically Volvo experimented on P2's and then got their act together by P2.5.
Edit: I use a Deatschwerks DW300 which in theory delivers 300 lph (more than I need). A stock pump delivers 140-180lph depending on part number and a Walbro 255 delivers (obviously) 255lph. I went with a Deatschwerks after §§§§§§ing my Walbro - I would happily fit a Walbro again though. There are also good and bad Walbro copies to be had. Fitting a fuel pump to a P2 ME7 means pulling out the swirl pot and cutting out the stock pump. The new pump is attached by fuel hose which needs to be the correct length so the filter and pump inlet are at the bottom of the pot. Hose too short means "running out of fuel" at half tank. I have 2 swirl pot/sender units here with different return fittings - I modifyed the one I use to direct the return more positively into the pot as it was spraying over the pot and into the tank with an uprated pump. I have photos if required - it wasn't difficult.
Post 552222 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-04 00:27:39
[QUOTE=Pault5estate;552135]Made them myself, not hard to do, once you work out what size you need.
Used this for the oil feed
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-4-8mm-3-16-Stainless-Braided-Teflon-Hose-3m-/160610503864?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256521ccb8
Water feed is AN -08
Oil return is AN -12
[/QUOTE]
Just a bit paranoid about oil leaks & would prefer to use solid lines where possible - though I have no idea how to get an inline restrictor that TD sent me to work.
EDIT
Found this & will look to get properly swaged pipes - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/garrett-bb-chra-oil-feeds-175724.html?amp;
I have the restrictor already...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19596[/ATTACH]
Post 552247 by Nealevo on 2012-12-04 08:17:17
Dave, Martin T5r is breaking a 850R saloon, off this car it has a massive turbo like yours and he is selling the flexi oil feed lines ect, if these are any use to you... get in quick the vultures are coming.
Post 552261 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-04 11:29:56
That will save me so much effort - cheers Neal - IOU one.
Post 552352 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-04 20:13:45
Not had a problem with any leaks so far, well, had one, and that was due to a faulty 90 degree connector changed it, been fine since, they are designed to carry oil pressure, rated well above what the oil pump produces.
But, if you can buy 'ready made' ons, go for it! :)
Post 553592 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-11 16:59:21
My TIAL BOV recirc turned up today - as did the 3" weld flange & v-band clamp.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19626[/ATTACH]
Just like Christmas but slightly early.
Post 553617 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-11 20:11:06
Same setup I have on mine :)
Post 553825 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-12 14:16:45
How did you plumb in the return from the tial?
Post 553885 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-12 20:28:28
Sorry, I should have made myself more clear, the V-band setup is the same as mine, my GT is internally gated, I'm not running a Tial or any form of blow off valve.
(Not at the moment any way)
Post 553892 by claymore on 2012-12-12 20:56:27
[QUOTE=Pault5estate;553885]Sorry, I should have made myself more clear, the V-band setup is the same as mine, my GT is internally gated, [COLOR=#ff0000]I'm not running[/COLOR] a Tial or [COLOR=#ff0000]any form of blow off valve[/COLOR].
(Not at the moment any way)[/QUOTE]
Errrr, yes you are
Post 553932 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-12 22:07:03
Yeah, I just remembered, I am, an adjustable re-circ valve!
Post 553938 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-12 22:17:47
how much was your 3" V-band D/P and how come you split it near the steering rack?
Post 553940 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-12 22:34:41
The D/P, was made by the engine builder using jetex 90 bends. Nearly everything on my car is designed by me, or my friend.
It has been designed with a removable centre section, so, I can put a cat or silencer, or even a straight through pipe on it :)
Post 553941 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-12 22:35:31
The D/P, was made by the engine builder using jetex 90 bends. Nearly everything on my car is designed by me, or my friend.
It has been designed with a removable centre section, so, I can put a cat or silencer, or even a straight through pipe on it :) It doesn't stop by the steering rack any more, that is an old photo, it now joins under the floor about where the cat should be
After it had been ceramic coated, inside and out
Your more than welcome to come and look at the car.
Post 556728 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 17:29:32
Having now got the engine in with the subframe back on today - I can see I will need something very similar.
Post 556731 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 17:45:30
Need a bit of help with re-assembly as it has been a while & I have forgotten 1 or 2 bits.
The image below is from an S60 but its the closest to mine I can find - the blue pipe with the 1 way valves - goes to the base of the air intake? And the other end plumbs on to the brass connector on the centre of the inlet manifold?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19742[/ATTACH]
Can someone with an ME7 engine have a look also at the arrangement of the PCV banjo connection
I kinda took it apart & forgot where everything goes. In particular there is a small branch off this only a few mm
Can you tell me where it all plumbs into?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19743[/ATTACH]
I have the shot from VADIS but it doesn't show where most of the connections are
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19744[/ATTACH]
Post 556750 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 18:57:57
found a better pic of my banjo...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19745[/ATTACH]
I am still a little uncertain - particularly the routing of the fuel return.
Post 556759 by graemewelch on 2012-12-27 19:23:13
im sure ive got some pics of wear it gose. its about 6" away from the banjo. it gose through the pipe that ataches to banjo if that mskes sence. if remember rightly theres a sleeve on one of pipes
banjo end
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19746[/ATTACH]
other end
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19747[/ATTACH]
hope this helps
Post 556816 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 22:02:00
Also trying to work out where the canister purge valve goes [ATTACH=CONFIG]19749[/ATTACH]
All I have found is this article from Volvo & I know one rises from the bulbous piece in the centre of the inlet manifold.
Post 556820 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 22:09:28
Also trying to work out where the canister purge valve goes [ATTACH=CONFIG]19749[/ATTACH]
Am I correct in thinking this is part of the evap valve/canister system?
Post 556826 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-27 22:27:17
I think I have found a bit more info
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19750[/ATTACH]
Post 557233 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 00:42:13
Just a catch up - Progress since 18th Dec.
Once I got into the re-build it wasn't too bad. New friction plate went in with the gearbox. I was very pleased with the design changes and the pipes from Elliot's old car.
Took a while - about 3 hours to get the oil return line-up properly. It was literally about 4mm too long, so needed careful manipulation to make it fit properly. I was particularly pleased with motorcast & the rigging of the larger studs into the manifold to allow for the larger holes in the garrett t3 housing. I am very confident it is properly lined up & more importantly - it should not leak!
Getting the engine g/b into the car was not as bad as I imagined. I used a 4 castor square-tubed trolley - about 3 foot square and standing about 2 foot off the ground, with a small wooden pallet on it to raise the engine. Once the engine was roughly aligned we bolted up the top engine mount & suspensed the engine/gearbox on an engine brace between the wings on chains. On the first attempt it became apparent that the rear engine mount that clamps onto the gearbox was not going to clear the compressor housing on the GTX turbo. Things like this take a while to resolve, but with some angle-grinding, filing & painting (the material removed was mostly from just a small section of the black steel cover) & re-routing the water return took me upto the Christmas break.
After I got back the engine was offered up a second time.
Using the same trolley and some extra wooden blocks - we dropped the whole caboodle onto the subframe & surprisingly there were no real dramas. The extra wooden blocks made it quite simple to allow the engine to drop on the right parts of subframe and the trolley made it quite easy to move the whole lot about to line up the 4 main bolts. The GTX easily cleared the F/W without an manipulation. Having access to air tools & a 2 poster is very handy. There is no way on God's earth I would attempt this conversion on a drive way with regular hydraulic jacks or even engine hoists - I think it would be a very different challenge - going in from the top.
I've spent the last 2.5 days reconnecting - and it did eventually come back to me. We have put fluids in & the only drama so far is that the rad has a leak in it? How it developed a leak in between engine changes, I have not a clue, particularly as the leak is on the side facing the air con condensor? WTF??
I have a spare & it will only take an hour to change it out. I have fabricated the t-piece into my over the top pipe for the TIAL Recirc BOV.
Last puzzle piece in the re-construction phase is to get the D/P fabbed up - so the car will have to take a trip up the road to Redditch powerflow to get that bit made up.
Post 557235 by Jamest5r on 2012-12-30 00:48:16
Nice work Dave but where's the bloody pics mate we luv pics :)
Post 557236 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 00:50:00
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;557235]Nice work Dave but where's the bloody pics mate we luv pics :)[/QUOTE]
I was just getting to that - TBH - I was flat out & didn't take as many as I would have liked.
Post 557237 by t5 pete on 2012-12-30 00:50:14
bet your getting excited then dave nothing like putting something back together and being able to use it after so long
Post 557238 by M-R-P on 2012-12-30 00:51:24
No pics? ;)
Nice to see an update Dave, looking forward to the results of the test drive :D
Post 557242 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 01:10:39
These 2 are 20th Dec - gearbox on - turbo plumbed (before I found the rear mount issue).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19761[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19762[/ATTACH]
Post 557244 by M-R-P on 2012-12-30 01:13:33
PHWAR! that's one big lump of shinyness!
Tell the truth now Dave - you've been stroking it, haven't you? :)
Post 557245 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 01:15:35
This the only install shot from below I currently have - [ATTACH=CONFIG]19763[/ATTACH]
You can see that the rear mounting bracket has been on a diet.
I decided the old heater hoses were a bit knackered - so got the real deal from Volvo. However - My last top tip BTW for future builds is - don't throw out the old heater hoses until you look at the new ones properly. The yellow retaining clip is not included. I had to buy an entire plastic bulk head mount, just to get them (bins had been emptied). Oops.
Post 557247 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 01:18:40
[QUOTE=t5 pete;557237]bet your getting excited then dave nothing like putting something back together and being able to use it after so long[/QUOTE]
I am just trying to remain quietly focused on getting everything done right. That first key turn is however tantilisingly close. So much time & money put into this - I am just praying it all comes together.
Post 557248 by t5 pete on 2012-12-30 01:19:59
It will do dave i really hope every thing goes well for you
Post 557250 by Volvostorm on 2012-12-30 01:24:12
You can't beat the thrill of the first startup :D
Post 557252 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 01:29:37
[QUOTE=M-R-P;557244]PHWAR! that's one big lump of shinyness!
Tell the truth now Dave - you've been stroking it, haven't you? :)[/QUOTE]
It has certainly been emotional.
Post 557253 by M-R-P on 2012-12-30 01:31:39
Seriously tho mate, Betsy was epic when you kindly scared the crap out of me up the M1 (within legal limits of course), she's gonna be something else soon ;)
Post 557254 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 01:41:33
I have to say at this point a massive thanks to Hamish, Tom & Billy at HLM for guidance, assistance, patience, reassurance and lots of other words ending in "nce" - although abuse doesn't.
They've pushed Betsy in and out of that garage every day for 6 weeks, keep it safe & I am eternally grateful for them endulging this madness.
Oh and they tuned my S40 - which has almost more torque than "Loose Women".
Post 557255 by smithy on 2012-12-30 01:47:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;557254]I have to say at this point a massive thanks to Hamish, Tom & Billy at HLM for guidance, assistance, patience, reassurance and lots of other words ending in "nce" - although abuse doesn't.
They've pushed Betsy in and out of that garage every day for 6 weeks, keep it safe & I am eternally grateful for them endulging this madness.
Oh and they tuned my S40 - which has almost more torque than "Loose Women".[/QUOTE]
They are good bunch of lads mate I'm going to be scared going against on the strip mate how is the 8v going to cope lol.mine will be on the rollers early next year for some mild mapping and I will only be running 20 psi for now till I get a better clutch that is lol
Post 557294 by lance on 2012-12-30 12:53:42
Watching and very excited for you matey! Will have to Defo hook up in the new year!
Post 557306 by jardon on 2012-12-30 14:33:20
Apologies for not helping with the pipe routing - just read the updates and it seems you've sorted it out. My PCV plumbing is different since fitting (and subsequently unfitting) a catch can. I would have been no help on the evap plumbing other than to say it exists. Well done on the job so far and I'm loving how big the turbo is.
Post 557324 by Wobbly Dave on 2012-12-30 16:40:51
[QUOTE=jardon;557306]Apologies for not helping with the pipe routing - just read the updates and it seems you've sorted it out. My PCV plumbing is different since fitting (and subsequently unfitting) a catch can. I would have been no help on the evap plumbing other than to say it exists. Well done on the job so far and I'm loving how big the turbo is.[/QUOTE]
It was OK in the end. I managed to figure it out - using the available holes vs available pipes plus the odd photo taken beforehand. Just cross your fingers I haven't forgotten anything.
Post 558822 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-04 00:48:39
First run up today. My heart was in my mouth - but it all went well. Cranked it without the coils connected. Primed engine then caught first time.
Only 1 minor leak from the oil feed (fixed) & a small drip from the banjo on the water return. All nipped up and working fine.
[video=youtube;WFS2-a_Vd5o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFS2-a_Vd5o[/video]
Radiator is swapped. There are a few issues with the intake shield and the downpipe is now the last piece in the jigsaw - hopefully sorted over the weekend.
Engine runs sweetly, couldn't be happier with progress so far.
Post 558845 by V70 Graham on 2013-01-04 09:02:00
Looking good Dave, glad your happy, hope the intake shield and downpipe work goes well at the weekend.
Post 561333 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-10 12:43:02
it's all for §§§§. According to the exhaust guys given the lower position of the CHRA & subsequent V-band opening - I have 6 inches to do 180 degree turn - essentiall the dp cuts back on itself. Comparing with Pauls picture -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/paulxr4x4/Volvo%20build%20and%20evos/cd2995ed.jpg
they say I don't have that extra 2" height. Not sure what to do without some specialist casting to screw onto the turbine housing.
Just right now I feel like jacking it all in.
Post 561341 by smithy on 2013-01-10 13:21:46
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561333]it's all for §§§§. According to the exhaust guys given the lower position of the CHRA & subsequent V-band opening - I have 6 inches to do 180 degree turn - essentiall the dp cuts back on itself. Comparing with Pauls picture -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/paulxr4x4/Volvo%20build%20and%20evos/cd2995ed.jpg
they say I don't have that extra 2" height. Not sure what to do without some specialist casting to screw onto the turbine housing.
Just right now I feel like jacking it all in.[/QUOTE]
No you don't mate just have think of another idea and have you got any pics of your problem mate
Post 561357 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-10 14:56:28
Need a proper custom fab place that can make stuff to go on the turbine housing in the W. Mids. I am not worried if the V-band thing is replaced by a custom collector or not.
perhaps using this kind of flange...
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Flanges/Steel/ATP-FLS-075_450-1.jpg
with a bell mouth style collector
http://www.radiumauto.com/admin/uploads/EDITED-_DSC6937.jpg
or even cake wedge pieces of pipe welded together to create the U bend..
Post 561360 by claymore on 2013-01-10 15:08:15
This is how I'm going to do mine next week:
Post 561370 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-10 15:45:05
I think -like Pauls - your GT is higher than mine?
Post 561371 by claymore on 2013-01-10 15:47:54
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561370]I think -like Pauls - your GT is higher than mine?[/QUOTE]
How is yours bolted to the manifold, has it got an adapter welded on?
Post 561372 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-10 15:50:18
Take it here Dave, http://www.custom-chrome.co.uk/
Post 561373 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-10 15:53:19
[QUOTE=claymore;561371]How is yours bolted to the manifold, has it got an adapter welded on?[/QUOTE] no weld adaptor. The TD04 ring was flattened off - larger diameter studs fitted and the T3 housing was bolted straight on.
Post 561381 by jardon on 2013-01-10 16:16:19
I would talk to Nigel Altiss - this sort of issue is right up his street. You could run it by Tim while you're there.
http://www.altiss.com/
Post 561408 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-10 17:04:46
Going with custom chrome for now - just need to get it over there.
Post 561415 by V70 Graham on 2013-01-10 17:30:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561408]Going with custom chrome for now - just need to get it over there.[/QUOTE]
Keep us up to speed Dave, and certainly don't give up hope, just think it will be sorted soon mate.
Post 561441 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-10 19:26:21
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561373]no weld adaptor. The TD04 ring was flattened off - larger diameter studs fitted and the T3 housing was bolted straight on.[/QUOTE]
Thats pretty much how mine was fitted, to gain some extra space, we cut and modified the heat shield around the steering linkage, its still there, just not as much.
Post 561474 by LiamT4 on 2013-01-10 21:13:55
I recommend custom chrome, they did an excellent job doing a full exhaust on my mates old r32 skyline.
Post 561557 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-11 14:09:08
I appreciate Smithy's contact & Hamish's help again. I am just praying CC can pull it off. Having spoke to the owner (is there anyone Smithy doesn't know??) I am cautiously optimistic.
Post 561565 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-11 15:11:32
If they have a telephone Smithy know's them :)
Post 561567 by smithy on 2013-01-11 15:14:48
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;561565]If they have a telephone Smithy know's them :)[/QUOTE]
Cheeky sod lol
Post 561573 by t5 pete on 2013-01-11 16:12:05
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;561565]If they have a telephone Smithy know's them :)[/QUOTE]
Pmsl
Post 561666 by MoleT-5R on 2013-01-12 00:21:41
now known as SMITHY 118 118, get a tache mate...lol
Post 561667 by M-R-P on 2013-01-12 00:23:32
[QUOTE=moleadrian;561666]now known as SMITHY 118 118, get a tache mate...lol[/QUOTE]
Got your number...
Post 561668 by MoleT-5R on 2013-01-12 00:30:36
[QUOTE=M-R-P;561667]Got your number...[/QUOTE
118 118...lol
]
Post 561909 by graemewelch on 2013-01-12 22:06:12
if this company dosnt work out im down you way on the 8th and 9th feb. id happily stop by yours and sort your pipe out. let me know and ill sort you a shopping list. even if get sorted in the mean time and want some pointers with tig welding ill bring my stuff down and your welcome to have a bit play. i only wish you were closer and i bet its so frustrating being so close to being finished.
Post 561912 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-12 22:17:06
Graham you're a superstar. It's comforting to feel that I have a backup plan. I think it will require some kind of custom collector that can be bolted to the turbine housing - & I hope that custom chrome can oblige.
Post 561918 by graemewelch on 2013-01-12 22:28:12
i havnt seen your set up up but im 99% sure you can keep the v band clamp.
Post 561930 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-12 22:42:40
That picture of my d/pipe is a very early one, we must have had it on and off the turbo, and later on the car, about 30 times or more.
This is where I got my bends from, part no U037690
http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/custom_parts.php?mat=Aluminised+or+mild&dia=3.0+inch
even then, we cut them about, and the pipe isn't 'flat' it bends in 3 different directions!
As I've said Dave, your more than welcome to come and look at the car yourself, its only just outside Shrewsbury.
Post 561937 by graemewelch on 2013-01-12 22:53:52
x1d 90 degree bends can be picked up around 15 quid. 304l stainless
Post 561942 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-12 23:07:45
I think it has more to do with the height & how sharp it has to turn down. I believe this is the majority of my problem. Your collector output is not level with the centre of the shaft (at least from your pictures it appears not), its slightly higher up - and that extra inch is important when it comes to coming back into the exhaust tunnel.
Hence the ATP v-band housing that I bought it that much lower & and it also goes further across to the nearside, making the cut back even more tight plus the T3 housing I bought has the internal gate built in - giving it more length.
I think if custom chrome can create an alternative collector where the V-band is actually pointing downwards relative to the floor or perhaps slightly angled as per the original td04 housing, it will make the turn feasible. At the mo the 1st exhaust place could not buy a turn tight enough to make it work within the space - so sadly buying in the turns is not the issue.
The other alternative is to create the same 5 bolt housing but use a smaller outlet - perhaps 2.5 inch which would create much needed room.
I am trying to remain optimistic that a reasonable compromise can be found.
Post 561947 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-12 23:13:12
Another thought - though it would be a pain, is to source the same housing as you paul, but what are you doing for a wastegate?
Edit - I think I know the difference....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/paulxr4x4/Volvo%20build%20and%20evos/919b99ad.jpg
See how short the flange stamp is relative to the one I bought.
your turbine wheel is a lot closer to the edge
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19399&d=1353459480
Post 561949 by smithy on 2013-01-12 23:21:21
Lets see what ccr say first mate before you go any further .
Post 561972 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-13 00:39:30
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561947]Another thought - though it would be a pain, is to source the same housing as you paul, but what are you doing for a wastegate?
Edit - I think I know the difference....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/paulxr4x4/Volvo%20build%20and%20evos/919b99ad.jpg
See how short the flange stamp is relative to the one I bought.
your turbine wheel is a lot closer to the edge
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19399&d=1353459480[/QUOTE]
Looks like you have found the problem, my housing came from Owen's, I don't know what make it is, and, like yours, my is internally gated.
Post 561976 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-13 01:01:32
I believe that it is possible to fit the GTX3071 into the same housing as that. Lets just see if CCr can work some magic into this. if not then using the same turbine housing may be the only way to rescue the project.
Post 561978 by M-R-P on 2013-01-13 01:09:22
Plan B - fit a N/A manifold and ditch the turbo. Then grab one of Colin's spare superchargers...:ukliam2:
Post 561979 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-13 01:19:49
Plan B involved 2 gallon of diesel & a match.
Post 561980 by M-R-P on 2013-01-13 01:26:33
Petrol burns better...
Besides, wedging a candle in the back seat can give you up to 3 hours to be somewhere else ;)
I prefer my plan B to yours tho :D
Stick with it Dave - you'll get there mate ;)
Post 562005 by LiamT4 on 2013-01-13 12:43:37
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;561979]Plan B involved 2 gallon of diesel & a match.[/QUOTE]
Can you ignite diesel with a match?? Thought it had to be under pressure for diesel to burn.
They always a way dave, sure someone will find a solution.
Post 562037 by graemewelch on 2013-01-13 15:05:58
he will find a solution. if they cant do it ill come down and do it for him.
Post 562039 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-13 15:14:51
I appreciate everyones support and encouragement.
Post 562045 by JT on 2013-01-13 15:44:50
to quote......."Sorry to hear of your woes - but least we're not short on JT drama now."
swings and roundabouts as they say! lol
hope you get it sorted,I'm looking forward to seeing some good figures from this:)
Post 562123 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-13 18:59:02
quote who?
Post 562148 by EddyP on 2013-01-13 20:20:06
This is fairly tight
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/76mm-3-90-degree-Tight-Mandrel-Bend-Stainless-Steel-/260838328648?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cbb2d0948
Look for dairy bends, they're usually very tight, i've used the Jetex one and it's not too bad but not as good as that one above, the jetex one is formed from two halves pressed out of a sheet and then welded together.
If all fails, i've got a 19T and some cash I could give you for the GTX ;)
Ed
PS. I was with Mark Stringer today, he said he's pleased to see you're still playing with Volvos, but please don't crash this one :slap:
Post 562172 by EddyP on 2013-01-13 21:00:19
Might be worth talking to these guys:
http://www.terraspan.co.uk/productsandstock.html
They're in the Midlands and stock the stainless bends that are a really tight radius.
Post 562286 by graemewelch on 2013-01-14 11:19:58
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19915[/ATTACH]
looks a simular set up to yours except its for a r.
Post 562287 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-14 11:27:30
That looks similar Graham but the turbo is higher & further towards my O/S - I wonder what manifold is being used?
EDIT This will be LHD - they have no brake servo in the way - so they can do that. Unless I can cut my brake servo in half not sure how far up I can come?
I found the thread by referencing the filename of that JPG picture.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?76551-Picture-Request-Downpipe-with-elbow-in-the-shape-of-a-question-mark.&
I see a lot of people using this kind of turbine housing - this one is not internally-gated
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4628/4681/24069840014_medium.jpg
Post 562292 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-14 11:57:53
You can see from this below shot that the exit from the V-band housing is directly below the brake servo...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19918[/ATTACH]
Post 562313 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-14 13:24:39
As I don't have an exact rear on view - I have tried to draw approx where my turbo sits relative to the block. LHD is much easier because the steering rack (in red here) is on the other side...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19919[/ATTACH]
In hindsight I wish I had dropped my steering rack onto the subframe and set it with the engine sitting in position on it. I guess that way, I would have had a much better idea of the routing of the DP - even so it would have been tricky to know how low the brake servo was.
If I have to change to a non-garrett turbine housing to get it to fit then so be it.
On a positive note the engine runs sweetly and there are no leaks.
Does anyone have a spare S60/S60R rear gearbox engine mount. I believe it will fit better than the one I have modified. You can see it on the picture above.
Post 562327 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-14 14:01:23
Wish I'd found this project a bit sooner....
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/64863-project-blackt5/
The GT35 is a lot bigger than what I have.
Post 562329 by graemewelch on 2013-01-14 14:03:03
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/319094-lets-talk-custom-downpipes-3.html
and some more. id do it in 15 or 30 degree mitres. do it so it 135 degrees the add a 1d 45 degree bend. i think that would get you past the steering rack and clearance issues would be no more. once past the rack 1d bends should do the trick. never say never. the job isnt impossible. just needs a bit custom work
Post 562337 by graemewelch on 2013-01-14 14:17:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;562334]You mean this cake slice job?
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/madmalc/10122008259.jpg[/QUOTE]
aye sumit simular. thats one huge turbo in that link.
Post 562479 by smithy on 2013-01-14 21:23:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;562327]Wish I'd found this project a bit sooner....
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/64863-project-blackt5/
The GT35 is a lot bigger than what I have.[/QUOTE]
Nice turbo in that link and them are the injectors I have in my car mate .them are the ones I was telling you about
Post 562505 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-14 22:13:13
Same injectors I have to go in mine too
Post 562573 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-15 00:09:12
I was thinking that 630cc was a bit OTT & I was worried about it being lumpy at low revs.
Post 562591 by smithy on 2013-01-15 00:34:38
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;562573]I was thinking that 630cc was a bit OTT & I was worried about it being lumpy at low revs.[/QUOTE]
If it is mapped properly mate then no you will have no probs.in USA peeps are using 1000cc injectors with just chips on 940/740s so you have no probs.
Post 562593 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-15 00:35:32
Where can I get the siemen 630s from? Are they in the UK?
Post 562609 by smithy on 2013-01-15 00:56:10
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;562593]Where can I get the siemen 630s from? Are they in the UK?[/QUOTE]
You might be able to get them in the uk mate I will text you the part number if you want .i know my ones came from the USA but the must be a supplier in the uk
Post 562714 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-15 15:55:29
Got mine off GavT4 on T5D5, think he can still get them
Post 563054 by jardon on 2013-01-16 17:34:08
[QUOTE=Pault5estate;562714]Got mine off GavT4 on T5D5, think he can still get them[/QUOTE]
GazT4R
Post 563116 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-16 20:18:40
[QUOTE=jardon;563054]GazT4R[/QUOTE]
Him as well, I even checked to see if I had the right, which I didn't, thought I had corrected it! :shifty::wallbash:
Post 564463 by graemewelch on 2013-01-20 21:46:54
how you getting on with the down pipe plans. just if you thing you might need some help ill pull my finger out and start cuting some material to make tight radious bends.
Post 564478 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-20 22:03:35
Everything is on hold.
Post 564529 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-20 23:28:28
I think I have stumbled upon my answer & they are UK based...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19987[/ATTACH]
http://www.goapr.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ttrs-stage3-prototype-008.jpg
Going to call them tomorrow to see if this collector is available
They are using the same swing gate turbine housing as me.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19988[/ATTACH]
Post 564535 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-20 23:49:02
If don't sell this prototype then this might work
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19989[/ATTACH]
Post 564570 by claymore on 2013-01-21 07:33:55
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;564529]I think I have stumbled upon my answer & they are UK based...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19987[/ATTACH]
http://www.goapr.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ttrs-stage3-prototype-008.jpg
Going to call them tomorrow to see if this collector is available
They are using the same swing gate turbine housing as me.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19988[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
How does that bolt onto the exhaust housing? the exhaust housing uses studs.
Post 564672 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-21 12:53:42
I would have to drill out the threads on the bottom 3 holes - as they have done. Look carefully at their swing gate housing - you can just see the remains of the threads.
http://www.goapr.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ttrs-stage3-prototype-012.jpg
Post 566955 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-27 17:30:06
What's happening the Dave?? you gone a bit quiet :)
Post 567006 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-27 19:24:55
Only to keep my excitement in check for tomorrow.
Post 567483 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-28 23:29:49
Great news - Chris Tullett - a welding genius has successfully taken on my commission and completed it. The quality is exemplary. He has completed the turn using the v-band exit from the turbo - something A44 exhausts said couldn't be done. I'll post some shots when it's light.
Drove her home from Aylesbury (thanks to Mrs Wobbly for dropping me down).
I have a minor PAS leak which needs to be sorted but other than that I couldn't be happier. Betsy is home - 1st time since last October.
http://www.christullettexhausts.com/
Post 567484 by t5 pete on 2013-01-28 23:33:19
Good news dave im glad you managed to get it all sorted and shepbomb will be happy
Post 567487 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-28 23:43:03
aye - he can finally have the ferrita
Post 567490 by smithy on 2013-01-28 23:57:59
Weldone dave next run it in and then tuning .how does the turbo feel
Post 567493 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 00:23:15
It makes suggestive whistling noises already. 120 miles done 1380 to go.
Post 567495 by M-R-P on 2013-01-29 00:32:06
Real pleased for ya Dave. Looking forward to the first 1/4 run ;)
Post 567503 by lance on 2013-01-29 08:09:27
Yeah cool glad betsy is safely home, can't wait to see her in action.
Post 567505 by T5frankie on 2013-01-29 08:14:59
Nice one Dave mapping next shark performance do custom mte maps in Mansfield
Post 567509 by V70 Graham on 2013-01-29 08:59:42
Really pleased for you Dave, worth all the blood sweat and tears you've put in, looking forward to seeing her soon.
Post 567511 by JUDGENINJA on 2013-01-29 09:17:16
So now it's all back together.... Now the real fettling starts..!!!
Will you start with a safe map and build up or just go for broke???!!!
Post 567512 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-29 09:44:08
Great news Dave, hope to see it soon
Post 567515 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 10:00:44
[QUOTE=JUDGENINJA;567511]So now it's all back together.... Now the real fettling starts..!!!
Will you start with a safe map and build up or just go for broke???!!![/QUOTE]
I need injectors and a fuel pump plus 1500 miles to bed the new bores in. Going to start off slowly and build it up. I set out some bench mark goals when I started. If I can reach those targets then I will be happy.
Post 567528 by rikcougar on 2013-01-29 10:59:17
Great news Dave, look forward to seeing it in action this year
What will you do now ???
Post 567541 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 11:45:22
[QUOTE=rikcougar;567528]Great news Dave, look forward to seeing it in action this year
What will you do now ???[/QUOTE]
Use up hideous amounts of fuel trying to get the engine ready. Anyone got any thoughts on the best way to bed an engine in?
Post 567542 by M-R-P on 2013-01-29 11:48:50
I've heard that sitting at the same speed/revs on the motorway should be avoided.
You're always welcome down in Poole for a Mc Donalds, I'll even buy you a Mc Flurry ;)
What about putting it on some rollers, with the cruise control on in 5th and just change the speed every now and again?
Post 567552 by Nealevo on 2013-01-29 12:02:45
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567541] Anyone got any thoughts on the best way to bed an engine in?[/QUOTE]
Dave when we bed in gearboxes, diffs and engines after big bangs, we are told never to sit on a motorway at constant speeds for more than 10 miles at a time, so keep it varied and take it easy, we flush the engine after 200 miles just incase and use thick oil, now this could be useless for volvos as im used to land rovers and jags but all information helps you decide...
Cant wait for the season to start, it should be a good one!!!! thats you (nearly) James (nearly) and claymore (nearly) ready
Post 567554 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 12:10:17
Oops - well I drove 120 miles at pretty much constant 2500 rpm. A change of approach is needed.
Post 567557 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-29 12:15:18
I did various driving including about 200 miles of motorway but never over 3k rpm, took me over 2 months to run mine in, also swooped oil after the first couple of hundred just in case there was any swaff hanging around
Post 567558 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 12:19:17
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;567557]I did various driving including about 200 miles of motorway but never over 3k rpm, took me over 2 months to run mine in, also swooped oil after the first couple of hundred just in case there was any swaff hanging around[/QUOTE]
Well I am planning on running over to HLM today - but I'll go the back way. I've already done 1 oil change after the first 20 minutes. Can't see me being ready for the 1st drag race, if I have 8 weeks. Probably do another oil change today if I can.
Post 567559 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 12:29:49
New D/P from above. Quality of the welds is astonishing...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20071[/ATTACH]
Post 567564 by M-R-P on 2013-01-29 12:42:07
Yep that is some really good work. Top marks to the fabricator.
Post 567566 by smithy on 2013-01-29 12:56:00
Dave just drive the car mixed driving like everyday driving for around 700 miles then start to stretch her legs abit and that don't mean beating her ether .change oil every 250 or so miles and filter too .
Post 567605 by graemewelch on 2013-01-29 17:24:50
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567559]New D/P from above. Quality of the welds is astonishing...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20071[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
looks like theyve done a nice job. bet your glad youve done. happy days now burning some optimax for the fun of it.
Post 567627 by stribo on 2013-01-29 19:25:14
Glad you've got it up and running Dave, look forward to seeing it in full flight later in the year.
Post 567633 by V70 Graham on 2013-01-29 19:44:41
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567558]Well I am planning on running over to HLM today.....[/QUOTE]
Anything found/bought/fitted ?
Post 567636 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-29 19:46:13
Nice looking work on that DP mate :)
One thing I did to mine, I had it ceramic coated to help keep the heat away from the servo.
Post 567687 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 21:10:52
Yes - do you have a contact for that?
Post 567689 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 21:12:40
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;567633]Anything found/bought/fitted ?[/QUOTE]
Yes - the top line going into the steering rack, the o ring seal had perished. 10p part job done leak fixed.
Post 567706 by claymore on 2013-01-29 21:37:42
DP looks great Dave, but for gods sake can you please get yourself a photobucket account
Post 567712 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-29 22:09:47
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567687]Yes - do you have a contact for that?[/QUOTE]
These are the people who done mine: http://camcoat.com/main/site/
I had mine double coated, i.e both in and outside, wasn't a bad price, about £70, give them a ring, they are only in Warrington, so not to far away
Post 567717 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 22:21:35
Why inside?
Post 567719 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 22:25:47
[QUOTE=claymore;567706]DP looks great Dave, but for gods sake can you please get yourself a photobucket account[/QUOTE]
What's wrong with stickin' 'em on 'ere?
Post 567721 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-29 22:27:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567717]Why inside?[/QUOTE]
Helps to keep the heat inside the exhaust, which helps with gas flow.
Post 567723 by claymore on 2013-01-29 22:30:31
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567719]What's wrong with stickin' 'em on 'ere?[/QUOTE]
it means having to click on the image to see it full size, then click again to go back to the thread, which is a pain in the §§§§.
Post 567725 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 22:32:20
Sorry. I will open one just now. You can SHIFT + click to avoid having to do that?
Post 567742 by shepbomb on 2013-01-29 23:21:26
Looking good there Dave, very NIiiiiiicccceee
Post 567745 by M-R-P on 2013-01-29 23:26:36
That is really god fabrication mate, I doubt you'll ever see better.
Post 567747 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 23:28:41
I am very chuffed the way they've put in the 3 bolt coupling - just to make things a bit easier, without me having to ask. Bought some heat wrap and shielding this evening to help shield the steering rack & brake servo from radiant heat.
Post 567748 by smithy on 2013-01-29 23:31:00
That looks like plasma welding to me .nice work
Post 567749 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-29 23:33:45
You'd have to ask Chris Tullett about that.
Post 567758 by graemewelch on 2013-01-30 00:36:01
[QUOTE=smithy;567748]That looks like plasma welding to me .nice work[/QUOTE]
its tig welded
Post 567769 by smithy on 2013-01-30 01:55:45
[QUOTE=graemewelch;567758]its tig welded[/QUOTE]
Nice welding any case
Post 567787 by M-R-P on 2013-01-30 08:28:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;567747]I am very chuffed the way they've put in the 3 bolt coupling - just to make things a bit easier, without me having to ask. Bought some heat wrap and shielding this evening to help shield the steering rack & brake servo from radiant heat.[/QUOTE]
Don't forget, as well as functionality, heat wrap (when done properly) looks the bogs dollocks ;)
Post 567809 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-30 10:13:46
Wondering weather to buy one of those titanium heat shield covers for the turbine housing too?
Post 567811 by M-R-P on 2013-01-30 10:20:11
It's shiny isn't it?
If so, then the car obviously needs it ;)
Post 567824 by M-R-P on 2013-01-30 11:07:17
Hmmm, not shiny but looks important :)
Post 567911 by jardon on 2013-01-30 18:20:23
That down pipe is a neat job in a very tight space - good find. I read (possibly inaccurately) that when bedding a new engine you shouldn't run a fully synthetic oil but use a mineral oil instead. Something to do do with future oil consumption?
Post 567925 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-30 19:12:26
Yeah, I've been told that too, mine has running-in oil in it, which I believe is 100% dinosaur!
Post 567926 by claymore on 2013-01-30 19:15:00
Just dumped the mineral oil out of mine, ready to put Semi synthetic and a new filter in tomorrow.
Post 567927 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-30 19:16:09
I think running in oil is far too thin, i used it for the 1st few miles and i mean a few the went onto the budget 10-40
Post 567930 by claymore on 2013-01-30 19:21:26
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;567927]I think running in oil is far too thin, i used it for the 1st few miles and i mean a few the went onto the budget 10-40[/QUOTE]
That's the whole point of it, it's to let the bores wear in, if you don't use crap oil to start with, the engine will be an oil drinker and have less compression in later life.
Post 567931 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-30 19:22:27
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;567927]I think running in oil is far too thin, i used it for the 1st few miles and i mean a few the went onto the budget 10-40[/QUOTE]
Yes, was told that too, I will be doing that as well, but, as mine has only done 3miles its ok for a while.
Post 567933 by Jamest5r on 2013-01-30 19:27:19
[QUOTE=claymore;567930]That's the whole point of it, it's to let the bores wear in, if you don't use crap oil to start with, the engine will be an oil drinker and have less compression in later life.[/QUOTE]
Just as well i used it for a few miles then lol
Post 567935 by LiamT4 on 2013-01-30 19:58:32
Anything on here that may help you dave
http://www.thermalprotectioninc.com/
Think silver is supposed to be the best, but it corrodes quicker than gold (think thats why they used gold in the mclaren f1)
Post 567938 by T5frankie on 2013-01-30 20:12:16
[QUOTE=M-R-P;567745]That is really god fabrication mate, I doubt you'll ever see better.[/QUOTE]
i think you'll find there is.
Post 567939 by Nealevo on 2013-01-30 20:18:30
Ha ha that looks like I welded it!!
Post 567946 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-01-30 20:57:42
[QUOTE=jardon;567911]That down pipe is a neat job in a very tight space - good find. I read (possibly inaccurately) that when bedding a new engine you shouldn't run a fully synthetic oil but use a mineral oil instead. Something to do do with future oil consumption?[/QUOTE]
Thought about mineral oil - but didn't want to damage the turbo bearings, so settled on a thicker semi-synth, for better or worse.
Post 567953 by Volvostorm on 2013-01-30 21:28:08
Mineral won't harm the bearings, just use the cheapest oil you can lay your hands on
Post 567965 by smithy on 2013-01-30 22:09:14
10/40 autolube cheap stuff is fine for running in but after you have done 650 miles then start putting better stuff in when you start to stretch things.
Post 567992 by M-R-P on 2013-01-30 23:15:33
[QUOTE=t5frankie;567938]i think you'll find there is.
[/QUOTE]
Holy poo!
That looks like it was stick-welded by Steevie Wonder!
Post 568535 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-01 19:52:11
I have been doing my research. I can get the D/P done by http://www.zircotec.com/ - the rolls-royce/F1 of thermal coatings for 120 quid in performance white. Turn around is a disappointing 5 days. Heat wrap would be pointless.
The contact Paul gave me said he'd do the same D/P - not quite such a good quality but done inside & out for 70. Heat wrap cannot be applied.
I've already bought heat wrap tape - s/s ties, heat shield and heat proof pipe surround (for the PAS pipes)
I could just wrap the d/p and have done. I know that heat wrap does not last for ever.
Post 568593 by rikcougar on 2013-02-01 22:13:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;568535]I have been doing my research. I can get the D/P done by http://www.zircotec.com/ - the rolls-royce/F1 of thermal coatings for 120 quid in performance white. Turn around is a disappointing 5 days. Heat wrap would be pointless.
The contact Paul gave me said he'd do the same D/P - not quite such a good quality but done inside & out for 70. Heat wrap cannot be applied.
I've already bought heat wrap tape - s/s ties, heat shield and heat proof pipe surround (for the PAS pipes)
I could just wrap the d/p and have done. I know that heat wrap does not last for ever.[/QUOTE]
The exhaust manifolds on the diesels that we build at work are often hot enough to see through Dave, we have tried various coatings on them but none are as efficient as the heat wrap at keeping the heat in. Lloyds the marine insurers will not accept coated manifolds, only wrapped
Post 568635 by Volvostorm on 2013-02-02 09:12:01
5 days turn around isn't bad, but I guess mine is off the road, so its not like I needed it.
The quaily oif the finish on my D/P is really nice, I also had all the stuff to wrap it, but chose not as I've seen that heatwrap can cause the exhaust to rot out quicker.
My system is wrapped though ;)
Post 569027 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-02 22:25:29
Have a packet of tissues at the ready - Carbon Fibre ITG intake filter. And I also managed to sort out the twist in the PCV tube (the one that goes into the PTC valve) at the bottom of the MAF to Turbo pipe - which was playing havoc with my idle & all kinds of problems on reappling the throttle after a trailing throttle.
As for the ITG intake - I've had my eye on it for a long time. Thanks to Hamish for letting pinch it finally. I will put the IPD shield & cone (their short RAM intake kit) up for sale soon.
Post 569030 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-02 22:32:05
That is a serious intake !
Glad the twist is sorted, project is in the home straight now.
Post 569035 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-02 22:40:18
As serious as cancer (as per the song). Hardly home straight but getting there for sure!
Heat proofing, recirc piping, injectors, fuel pump & then perhaps some remapping.
Engine revs nicely under no load - I've had her up to 5500 standing still. Sweet as a nut.
Post 569037 by Nealevo on 2013-02-02 22:47:15
Barsteward I had my eye on that intake :-) looks very good
Post 569043 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-02 22:49:52
[QUOTE=Nealevo;569037]Barsteward I had my eye on that intake :-) looks very good[/QUOTE] I'll let you have my IPD one?
Post 569080 by deathrider311271 on 2013-02-03 00:23:02
Dave how are you running a dump valve??? i was told it caused issues
Post 569082 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-03 00:39:41
Because the garrett GTX3071R doesnt have a built in one? Plus this will be plumbed into the MAF to Turbo pipe (as the recirc). I have to cut & weld on a pipe to recieve the dumped air. Current dump to atmosphere is only temporary and I am not running any boost during the run in period.
Post 569083 by smithy on 2013-02-03 00:50:22
Looks nice dave now drive it and get the mileage up
Post 571107 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 15:48:53
Look - heat protection stuff!
I know I can tell that you are all excited - but it is good when stuff turns up.
Flexible Heat shield, velcro pipe shroud, heat wrap tape & s/s ties.
Post 571113 by hybriduno on 2013-02-08 16:13:08
OOOOH pretty :)
Post 571115 by M-R-P on 2013-02-08 16:18:12
Stainless cable ties - covers so many manly needs...
Post 571141 by martybelfastt5 on 2013-02-08 18:24:36
looks great under the bonnet!
Post 571210 by jotter22 on 2013-02-08 20:20:17
Does Hamish stock induction kits ?
Tony.
Post 571239 by BlackBeast on 2013-02-08 21:17:38
TBH I'll be happy with anything over 400. Any tips you can give me would be appreciated - perhaps on another thread?
Found you project thread. You should be around the 470 mark minimum on a Maha dyno, can't speak for other dynos as I dont use those.
Anything you need to know, send me a pm as I dont often visit these parts.
As for tips, oil pressure/temp gauge is a must, decent size oil cooler, metal bearing cage for the turbo, heat jacket for the turbo, eeerrrrmmmmm...................
Post 571254 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 22:19:31
[QUOTE=jotter22;571210]Does Hamish stock induction kits ?
Tony.[/QUOTE]
No but he has performance panel filters. I have my old induction kit going for a decent offer. Hell I'll even throw in the elephant trunk mod if you wanted to replace your plastic fresh air pipe (the one that runs over the intercooler/rad).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20190[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20192[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20191[/ATTACH]
Post 571258 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 22:25:21
[QUOTE=BlackBeast;571239]Found you project thread. You should be around the 470 mark minimum on a Maha dyno, can't speak for other dynos as I dont use those.
Anything you need to know, send me a pm as I dont often visit these parts.
As for tips, oil pressure/temp gauge is a must, decent size oil cooler, metal bearing cage for the turbo, heat jacket for the turbo, eeerrrrmmmmm...................[/QUOTE]
Cheers BB - I appreciate you taking the time. I already had turbo dynamics work their magic on the CHRA - heat jacket, hopefully it will come as part of my birthday? I have torque app to monitor things.
I am curious as to why you think I can jump 150 bhp on that turbo?? I haven't lowered the compression - however anything over 400 would be a bonus.
Post 571264 by jotter22 on 2013-02-08 22:40:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571254]No but he has performance panel filters. I have my old induction kit going for a decent offer. Hell I'll even throw in the elephant trunk mod if you wanted to replace your plastic fresh air pipe (the one that runs over the intercooler/rad).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20190[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20192[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20191[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
does it come with fitting included? I will be at HLM on 27th march.
Tony.
Post 571265 by t5 pete on 2013-02-08 22:41:41
Im sure if all the parts are at hlm he will fit it for a fee
Post 571267 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 22:46:35
Induction kit has nothing to do with HLM - but they will fit it if you ask nicely. Or I can just send it to you? It is not difficult to fit.
Post 571276 by jotter22 on 2013-02-08 22:55:47
Dave are you far from HLM maybe i can do a round robin.
Tony.
Post 571280 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 22:59:22
Quite far - in Telford. It's an hour away (52 miles). I'd happily fit it for you or even send it to you.
Post 571282 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 23:03:12
Quite far - in Telford. It's an hour away (52 miles). I'd happily fit it for you or even send it to you. I'd even come over to HLM and do it.
Post 571283 by jotter22 on 2013-02-08 23:05:38
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571280]Quite far - in Telford. It's an hour away (52 miles). I'd happily fit it for you or even send it to you.[/QUOTE]
I have asked Nat for a book in time wait and see what it is then i can sort something out with you maybe pop up after the work or before depending on the book in time i would have you send it but i dont do paypal or anything out of interest pm me a price i might be able to get my boy to sort something out.
Tony.
Post 571287 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-08 23:09:23
Do you want the shiny trunk or are you going to stick with the black plastic one you have?
Post 571302 by jotter22 on 2013-02-08 23:17:50
HHHmmmm shiney sounds nice.....as long as its not too dear!
Post 571333 by BlackBeast on 2013-02-09 01:52:40
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571258]Cheers BB - I appreciate you taking the time. I already had turbo dynamics work their magic on the CHRA - heat jacket, hopefully it will come as part of my birthday? I have torque app to monitor things.
I am curious as to why you think I can jump 150 bhp on that turbo?? I haven't lowered the compression - however anything over 400 would be a bonus.[/QUOTE]
Not a problem.
On the GTX, as long as your using a T3 flange on the compressor housing? you should fairly easily make that sort of power imo. My set up (standard compression too) with pretty much standard T5 ignition timing and a rich fuel mixture makes a reliable 450bhp and thats with no water/meth injection.
Post 571432 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 17:46:54
Save you having to read everything so far.
The turbo is the ATP GT internally gated t3 flanged turbine housing (0.63 A/R), imported from the US, bolted onto an modified S60r (flange ring flattened off) manifold.
To that the ATP low profile 3" v-band 5 bold adaptor was added, custom 3" stainless D/P from Chris Tullett.
Compressor and GTX301R CHRA came from Turbo Dynamics who did the work up on the core, added the brass outlet & the actuator. They also supplied the TIAL recirc BOV.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20201[/ATTACH]
I'm using an uprated TCV from snabb.us (rated to 45 psi).
The head/block is a 2001 s60 donor which was fully overhauled, bored & rebuilt using wiseco forged 81.5mm pistons & k1 tech forged rods
I already have a rebuilt M56 with a quaiffe LSD, Nissens 3" core intercooler & Sachs motorsport clutch (new friction plate went in with the transplant).
I have also retained the Miltec cat back I've had since 2004.
Post 571439 by BlackBeast on 2013-02-09 18:06:21
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571432]Save you having to read everything so far.
The turbo is the ATP GT internally gated t3 flanged turbine housing (0.63 A/R), imported from the US, bolted onto an modified S60r (flange ring flattened off) manifold.
To that the ATP low profile 3" v-band 5 bold adaptor was added, custom 3" stainless D/P from Chris Tullett.
Compressor and GTX301R CHRA came from Turbo Dynamics who did the work up on the core, added the brass outlet & the actuator. They also supplied the TIAL recirc BOV.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20201[/ATTACH]
I'm using an uprated TCV from snabb.us (rated to 45 psi).
The head/block is a 2001 s60 donor which was fully overhauled, bored & rebuilt using wiseco forged 81.5mm pistons & k1 tech forged rods
I already have a rebuilt M56 with a quaiffe LSD, Nissens 3" core intercooler & Sachs motorsport clutch (new friction plate went in with the transplant).
I have also retained the Miltec cat back I've had since 2004.[/QUOTE]
Looks a very good spec and thanks for condensing it all.
Do you know if TD replaced the plastic bearing cage with a metal one or if it has a metal cage as standard?
Only thing I can add is that your Milltek cat back wont be sufficient, the amount of air you are pumping through, the Milltek will be the restriction. You need a 3" cat back. Another point, the Quaife depending upon how it is set up might be overcome due to the power/torque produced, all depends what tyres you use. And thats for both road and exiting slow corners on track.
If you only had waited a few months Dave, you could have bought the main parts from me, only done 10k miles
Post 571447 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 18:15:10
Cat back is relatively easy to replace & yes Hamish did kinda point at it, questionably. I am only giving away 1/4 inch.
Garrett ship the GTX CHRA with a plastic cage - & I got T/D to replace it with the metal one. That's what I was eluding to earlier.
I may yet take some bigger pieces off you - Did you have the GTX?
Post 571480 by BlackBeast on 2013-02-09 18:48:51
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571447]Cat back is relatively easy to replace & yes Hamish did kinda point at it, questionably. I am only giving away 1/4 inch.
Garrett ship the GTX CHRA with a plastic cage - & I got T/D to replace it with the metal one. That's what I was eluding to earlier.
I may yet take some bigger pieces off you - Did you have the GTX?[/QUOTE]
Hey, 1/4 of an inch makes all the difference LOL
Ah, sorry, completely missed your eluding.
No, I had the GT3071R with the same ATP housings all welded up to a ported S60R manifold.
Post 571484 by t5 pete on 2013-02-09 18:51:31
Sorry to jump in but what bit will you be selling bb
Post 571487 by BlackBeast on 2013-02-09 18:55:00
[QUOTE=t5 pete;571484]Sorry to jump in but what bit will you be selling bb[/QUOTE]
Every bit except for the block and crank as I'm breaking the car.
Post 571489 by T5frankie on 2013-02-09 18:56:35
i think this year we will have the most powerful volvos on this forum for a change
Post 571493 by hybriduno on 2013-02-09 18:59:18
coilovers? PLease ? lol
Post 571494 by smithy on 2013-02-09 18:59:30
[QUOTE=t5frankie;571489]i think this year we will have the most powerful volvos on this forum for a change[/QUOTE]
Who's we not me I will have 140 bhp and I will show the graphs to prove it too.
Post 571498 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 19:01:15
Maybe??
Post 571500 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 19:02:07
[QUOTE=hybriduno;571493]coilovers? PLease ? lol[/QUOTE]
Vultures are already circling
Post 571502 by T5frankie on 2013-02-09 19:03:09
[QUOTE=smithy;571494]Who's we not me I will have 140 bhp and I will show the graphs to prove it too.[/QUOTE]
wasnt talking about your effort lol
Post 571503 by hybriduno on 2013-02-09 19:04:18
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;571500]Vultures are already circling[/QUOTE]
Shut your gob you.....lol. i need some to progress project volvaxo lolz
Post 571508 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 19:16:52
[QUOTE=BlackBeast;571480]No, I had the GT3071R with the same ATP housings all welded up to a ported S60R manifold.[/QUOTE]
Did you have clearance challenges on the rear engine mount?
I haven't ported or polished anything.
Post 571519 by Volvostorm on 2013-02-09 19:31:45
I didn't with mine, is the ME7 slightly different?
Post 571520 by smithy on 2013-02-09 19:32:17
[QUOTE=t5frankie;571502]wasnt talking about your effort lol[/QUOTE]
Effort that's what it is and not a very good one ether .now daves car is something else
Post 571536 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 19:49:46
[QUOTE=Pault5estate;571519]I didn't with mine, is the ME7 slightly different?[/QUOTE] AFAIK only the VVT and the inlet shape.
I've seen that snabb.us offer delete plates for that.
Post 571541 by Volvostorm on 2013-02-09 19:55:11
No idea then Dave, I know mine is close too the rear mount, but it doesn't touch
If your going to the 2 Henrys tomorrow, pop over and have a look, its only 4 miles away, Claymore knows where it is.
Post 571551 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-09 20:07:10
I'll be there. So will Betsy & Erica. Don't get the 2 confused.
Post 571555 by Volvostorm on 2013-02-09 20:14:07
I'll try not too, I might be there, but I have to get some bits done on the camper, and weekends are the only time I can get them done.
Post 571912 by jardon on 2013-02-10 23:28:49
A 3" catback has 20% more cross section area than a 2.75". That's a significant difference. It might not make much difference on my car but you're going to be making a 1/3 more power so the air has to go somewhere. Not sure what I'd do but worth investigating exhaust flow restriction at ~450bhp. For its own sake moving from a stock downpipe (2.25") to 3" increases cross section by 80%. Flow volume is proportional to cross section.
Post 572182 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-11 20:34:07
My miltec has served me well - but perhaps it is time to let it go.
Post 574535 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-16 21:55:02
Engine is bedding in well. Spent most of the afternoon washing all the salt & stuff off both cars. Gave me an excuse to wash the grime of the top of the new engine, put down some C&G new look trim gel.
Enjoy the noise!!
[video=youtube;5qO08ADZ-wk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qO08ADZ-wk[/video]
Post 574546 by JUDGENINJA on 2013-02-16 22:12:15
Revs drop sweetly on that... sounds really nice..
Post 574551 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-16 22:18:24
[QUOTE=JUDGENINJA;574546]Revs drop sweetly on that... sounds really nice..[/QUOTE]
How do you mean? Is that a problem? #paranoidaboutnewengine
Post 574574 by the young mechanic on 2013-02-16 22:54:01
sounds loverly
Post 574576 by JUDGENINJA on 2013-02-16 22:55:30
Nope Dave... is sounds like a lightened engine..
Post 574577 by lance on 2013-02-16 22:56:16
Sounds nice
Post 575151 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-18 16:50:02
I went up to Shrewbury this afternoon to pick up some PAS fluid from the Volvo dealers - just a top up a small loss that occurred when muggins forgot to tighten the jubilee on the return pipe.
About 3 miles from home the radiaotr warning light came on. I guess I should have stopped right then, but being so close to home I decide to wait.
Water return from the turbo had worked its way free from the main water branch thing on the back of the engine. We'd cut about an inch off it during fabrication (including the bead) just to get the return to fit better - so it didn't pinch the water hose.
No water in the expansiion when I got back - just praying I got away with it & didn't damage anything - I wasn't boosting or anything.
Water temp seems OK on the dash.
YIKES!
Post 575160 by T5frankie on 2013-02-18 16:59:31
when that light comes on mate best to stop, you didnt know how fast the water was coming out
Post 575162 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-18 17:04:15
20/20 hindsight
Post 575222 by EddyP on 2013-02-18 18:50:03
You can put a small bead of weld on the pipe to stop the hose pushing off easily.
Fingers crossed it's all ok.
Post 575263 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-18 19:37:45
I think I am going to use that liquid metal stuff to hopefully achieve the same.
Post 575961 by graemewelch on 2013-02-20 16:22:58
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;575263]I think I am going to use that liquid metal stuff to hopefully achieve the same.[/QUOTE]
if you get another water pipe. cut to length you want and ill weld it back together for you. be a much better job.
Post 575966 by stribo on 2013-02-20 16:25:59
[QUOTE=t5frankie;575160]when that light comes on mate best to stop, you didnt know how fast the water was coming out[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;575162]20/20 hindsight[/QUOTE]
More common sense ;) which is unusual for Frankie. :lol:
Post 577037 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-22 18:29:54
How did you find the Mikalor hose clamp Dave, quality ok ?
Post 577056 by EddyP on 2013-02-22 19:17:36
I've used Mikalor clamps on all of my boost hoses, they're very good quality, i've also used the cheaper band type hose clamps, you really do get what you pay for. I'll only buy Mikalor again.
I'm even using 3" Mikalor clamps on my exhaust.
Post 577164 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-22 21:23:35
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;577037]How did you find the Mikalor hose clamp Dave, quality ok ?[/QUOTE]
Quality is top notch - but the tightening range is limited when using things that small. I ended up buying 3 different sizes. 19-21mm, 21-23mm, 23-25mm - even though I measured the hose at 22mm.
I do feel more confident that it will hold, but will keep a careful watch.
Post 577368 by graemewelch on 2013-02-23 18:41:40
not sure if you knew or not but i get mikalor clamps at trade prices. next day delivery to
Post 577371 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-23 18:46:22
[QUOTE=graemewelch;577368]not sure if you knew or not but i get mikalor clamps at trade prices. next day delivery to[/QUOTE]
Handy to know, I'll be needing some soon.
Post 577373 by T5frankie on 2013-02-23 18:52:51
ive just bought 11 of them for my new project
Post 577383 by graemewelch on 2013-02-23 19:33:37
[QUOTE=t5frankie;577373]ive just bought 11 of them for my new project[/QUOTE]
wear you buy them from and what what size. ive been getting 2.5" clamps £1.10
Post 577385 by stribo on 2013-02-23 19:37:39
Fingers crossed for you Dave. :B_thumb:
Post 577386 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-23 19:39:36
Seems very good, how much for these Graeme....
Mikalor 63mm - 68mm FULL Stainless Steel Mikalor Supra Pro Hose Clamp W4
.....on eBay for £5.29
Post 577389 by stribo on 2013-02-23 19:42:03
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;577386]Seems very good, how much for these Graeme....
Mikalor 63mm - 68mm FULL Stainless Steel Mikalor Supra Pro Hose Clamp W4
.....on eBay for £5.29[/QUOTE]
You'll never get the turbo spooled up enough to blow your boost hoses off. :P
Post 577390 by T5frankie on 2013-02-23 19:43:11
[QUOTE=graemewelch;577383]wear you buy them from and what what size. ive been getting 2.5" clamps £1.10[/QUOTE]
got them, from ebay mixture of sizes about £30 posted
Post 577393 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-23 19:47:01
[QUOTE=stribo;577389]You'll never get the turbo spooled up enough to blow your boost hoses off. :P[/QUOTE]
Anne might !
Post 577415 by stribo on 2013-02-23 20:09:32
Best fit them to the Golf then. ;)
Post 577441 by graemewelch on 2013-02-23 20:52:49
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;577386]Seems very good, how much for these Graeme....
Mikalor 63mm - 68mm FULL Stainless Steel Mikalor Supra Pro Hose Clamp W4
.....on eBay for £5.29[/QUOTE]
ill find out for you. will be less than that
Post 577443 by p fandango on 2013-02-23 20:55:02
i must sort out a list of sizes i need
Post 577531 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-24 00:00:53
I am hoping that a combination of the increased friction provided by the glue and the wider clamp will be sufficient. In 6 years of 19T ownership not once did I ever take that hose off at the water pipe branch end.
Popped by HLM for a 2nd opinion on oil colour/consistency - Billy seemed confident that I'd got away with it. Oil colour is good - I was just worried about a few small bubbles I saw in the oil on the dipstick.
Well Betsy has run all the way to Portsmouth today - no warning lights & levels remain pretty constant. I have though a small suspicion that there is a small oil weep somewhere - as I noticed some engine oil on my drive way this morning. If the leak is showing on the pavement where I parked her tomorrow - then I will know for sure. However this may not be related to the water pipe incident.
Post 577557 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-24 09:12:44
You in Portsmouth all day Dave, there's a 'Softies' meet this afternoon.
Post 577926 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-25 11:44:00
It would have been inappropriate for me to leave just to see everyone - but thanks for thinking of me.
Post 577927 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-25 11:45:10
Done fasand miles on me new enjin. Time to up the anti.
Post 577934 by Jamest5r on 2013-02-25 12:05:03
Whack da boost up matey :)
Seriously though who's mapping the me7
Post 577935 by T5frankie on 2013-02-25 12:12:39
Well done son, not long now, get it booked in for a custom map
Post 577941 by V70 Graham on 2013-02-25 12:18:17
Did you see any oil on the pavement this morning ?
Post 577950 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-25 12:46:08
Few things to sort out. Got to send my recirc branch pipe off to get it welded on to the turbo/MAF inlet pipe. It's all cut & ready.
Been talking to ASNU about injectors & a fuel pump. 650CC seems to be about where I need to be, with a 300lph pump.
Need an oil change. I haven't seen any leakage but will need to check it on the ramp. A/C needs regassing.
Post 577968 by T5frankie on 2013-02-25 14:18:21
air con? got to keep the luxury eh dave lol
Post 578052 by EddyP on 2013-02-25 18:44:56
If you're talking to ANSU about injectors ask them about their fancy ones that give a similar spray pattern to a direct injection unit, I spoke to them at the Autosport about them, they should give you a bit better fuel consumption as you get much better atomisation.
Post 578074 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-25 19:48:18
ASNU are the ones we've been discussing - http://www.asnuinjectors.co.uk/
Hamish also talked to them.
Post 578075 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-25 19:50:39
[QUOTE=t5frankie;577968]air con? got to keep the luxury eh dave lol[/QUOTE] nowt wrong with that. Going to HLM on Thursday - oil change, a/c regas & dyno run. See what we've got.
Post 578252 by T5frankie on 2013-02-26 16:23:04
so you have a set of rods then Dave? dont you think they are what they are supposed to be?
Post 578255 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-02-26 16:42:26
No I sold those on to JT. Bought the K1 tech rods instead from Coordsport
Post 578271 by jardon on 2013-02-26 17:14:28
Just as an aside you will need an upgraded fuel pump (you may already have fitted one so forgive me if I've missed that) and Coordsport supplied my Deatschwerks DW300. It has lasted longer than my Walbro 255 (which I broke to be fair) and has put up with me running all sorts of methanol mixtures through it (in the name of science).
Post 579397 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-01 22:02:57
[QUOTE=jardon;578271]Just as an aside you will need an upgraded fuel pump (you may already have fitted one so forgive me if I've missed that) and Coordsport supplied my Deatschwerks DW300. It has lasted longer than my Walbro 255 (which I broke to be fair) and has put up with me running all sorts of methanol mixtures through it (in the name of science).[/QUOTE]
ASNU recommended a Bosch 300lph pump - so I'll probably go with that.
Post 579399 by graemewelch on 2013-03-01 22:13:46
am pleased it dose what you wanted it to. almost there now. i bet im nearly as execited as you are to see what this motor can do.
Post 579403 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-01 22:19:51
And quite anxious that it will all be well. I haven't run it on WOT yet.
Post 579408 by graemewelch on 2013-03-01 22:29:46
im sure it will. if anything bad was to happen im sure it would of by now. i think we should all put a quid in and who ever ever gets the closest to the bhp wins. when its fully tuned of course
Post 579409 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-01 22:35:08
WHP sweepstake (Wobbly Horsepower) sounds good.
Post 579411 by smithy on 2013-03-01 22:39:25
But will you beat my 940 though with 140bhp lol.ps nice work there mate cannot wait to see it at Avon.
Post 579412 by graemewelch on 2013-03-01 22:41:12
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;579409]WHP sweepstake (Wobbly Horsepower) sounds good.[/QUOTE]
thats the word i was looking for. thought it was but didnt want to sound stupid lol
Post 579415 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-01 22:48:33
probably not. it seems a bit wierd when running partial throttle. I tried 3/4 throttle and fuel map seemed to be huntin/hesitant. I don't need to worry yet as I have no idea what AFR it runs yet. Patience is not my strong point.
Post 579417 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-01 23:34:54
Dave, 1st thing i would do is fit an afr gauge mate, you really need it otherwise your running blind
Post 579418 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-01 23:51:00
know any decent ones?
Post 579419 by t5 pete on 2013-03-01 23:51:48
Ive got the same as james aem
Post 579420 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-01 23:58:08
yep me to ^^^^
Post 579545 by T5frankie on 2013-03-02 17:07:19
this is my one
Post 579768 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-02 21:56:51
Thing is - I don't see how having a permanent AFR gauge will help me - as I cannot change the map. Lot of money to spend just admire the figures.
Bad news today was the sump plug is still weeping oil. We noticed this on the first oil change - someone re-tapped it but slightly on the pi$$. I've nipped it up as hard as I dare - but it's still weeping a bit. I have a spare sump, which can be swapped off the old engine - but I am wondering it PTFE tape may be easier?
Post 579773 by LiamT4 on 2013-03-02 22:00:28
But surely one of the advantages of having an afr gauge is that if there is an issue with your afrs then you'll know about it.
Post 579774 by oblark on 2013-03-02 22:00:38
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;579768]Thing is - I don't see how having a permanent AFR gauge will help me - as I cannot change the map. Lot of money to spend just admire the figures.
Bad news today was the sump plug is still weeping oil. We noticed this on the first oil change - someone re-tapped it but slightly on the pi$$. I've nipped it up as hard as I dare - but it's still weeping a bit. I have a spare sump, which can be swapped off the old engine - but I am wondering it PTFE tape may be easier?[/QUOTE]
Yeah either PTFE tape or loctite string :)
Post 579776 by t5 pete on 2013-03-02 22:00:56
The main reason to have a afr gauge is not just for setting the car up but to be able to monitor the car and how its running say some thing goes down and leads to running lean with out one all that money you have spent is gone without you knowing at least with a gauge you could be able to prevent it.
Just think of it like a boost gauge if the boost drops or raises you know some thing is wrong and can be inspected where as is you dont have a afr gauge you wont have a clue till its too late
Post 579778 by EddyP on 2013-03-02 22:01:08
You'd probably be better off trying a Dowty washer to replace the copper washer.
Post 579780 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-02 22:04:01
Awesome - I knew someone smart would know the answer.
Post 579781 by p fandango on 2013-03-02 22:04:14
[QUOTE=t5 pete;579776]The main reason to have a afr gauge is not just for setting the car up but to be able to monitor the car and how its running say some thing goes down and leads to running lean with out one all that money you have spent is gone without you knowing at least with a gauge you could be able to prevent it.
Just think of it like a boost gauge if the boost drops or raises you know some thing is wrong and can be inspected where as is you dont have a afr gauge you wont have a clue till its too late[/QUOTE]
i think it needs a box unit that shouts "STOP" when somethings up, so he doesn't carry on like he did with the water level light
Post 579783 by LiamT4 on 2013-03-02 22:07:19
[QUOTE=t5 pete;579776]The main reason to have a afr gauge is not just for setting the car up but to be able to monitor the car and how its running say some thing goes down and leads to running lean with out one all that money you have spent is gone without you knowing at least with a gauge you could be able to prevent it.
Just think of it like a boost gauge if the boost drops or raises you know some thing is wrong and can be inspected where as is you dont have a afr gauge you wont have a clue till its too late[/QUOTE]
So what i said, just padded out a bit ;-)
Post 579784 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-02 22:09:45
Touche - you're all probably right. The shouty STOP box - where do I get one of those?!
Post 579786 by LiamT4 on 2013-03-02 22:11:30
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;579784]Touche - you're all probably right. The shouty STOP box - where do I get one of those?![/QUOTE]
You usually get one of those with experience ;-)
Post 579791 by t5 pete on 2013-03-02 22:15:25
[QUOTE=p fandango;579781]i think it needs a box unit that shouts "STOP" when somethings up, so he doesn't carry on like he did with the water level light[/QUOTE]
Pmsl that would be a very good idea
Post 579792 by t5 pete on 2013-03-02 22:15:55
[QUOTE=LiamT4;579783]So what i said, just padded out a bit ;-)[/QUOTE]
Smarty pants lol
Post 579797 by LiamT4 on 2013-03-02 22:20:08
[QUOTE=t5 pete;579792]Smarty pants lol[/QUOTE]
I wrote less, so my reply would appear first ;-)
Post 579806 by p fandango on 2013-03-02 22:30:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;579784]Touche - you're all probably right. The shouty STOP box - where do I get one of those?![/QUOTE]
you can actually get them, intended for burglar alarms which are also normally 12v lol
Post 580794 by graemewelch on 2013-03-05 11:58:45
my going to take a guess that with out mapping and low boost you get about 260 bhp today. am sure read your running 7 psi
Post 580880 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 16:40:22
1.25 bar possibly. Lots of depends.
Post 580895 by V70 Graham on 2013-03-05 16:59:59
Did you get on the rollers today Dave ?
Post 581072 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 21:52:49
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;580895]Did you get on the rollers today Dave ?[/QUOTE]
Yes finally. Oil leak from the sump plug appears cured. Oil change done. A/C regas done - nice N cold. BTW Frankie - releasing to A/C air is illegal, I double checked.
Best news - it didn't blow up & didn't catch fire. We even managed 1 run at WOT. It's still very loud.
It tried to boost to 1.5 but was reigned in - so the boost was surging between 1 & 1.5 bar. AFR was marginal at 13.0 at higher RPM, but given that the boost was not sustained for any length of time it is difficult to pay much attention to the peak figures - other to say they are promising. But it was never dangerously lean - but still needs work.
She made 343bhp (crank) = 320WHP & peak torque was 460NM torque (wheels)
At 3/4 throttle the curve was pretty much what it was for the 19T at WOT. Long high & smooth.
I won't be running at Avon because it is not right yet & there would be little point. Fueling needs to be safer & the boost control needs revision.
She's passed the first test. I can now be confident about stretching her legs a little on the road.
Post 581076 by T5frankie on 2013-03-05 22:04:25
well done dave, now who is gonna custom map it?
as for air con, not bothered
Post 581079 by graemewelch on 2013-03-05 22:09:38
some nice figures here. add another silencer to the system. thatl sort it out. unless you like it loud
Post 581080 by t5 pete on 2013-03-05 22:09:46
Thats brilliant news dave im really please it all went well for you, it certainly will be a beast when fully done.
Post 581084 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 22:13:22
[QUOTE=graemewelch;581079]some nice figures here. add another silencer to the system. thatl sort it out. unless you like it loud[/QUOTE] It's loud inside the room where the dyno is. OTR probably not that loud.
Post 581087 by Nealevo on 2013-03-05 22:16:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581084]It's loud inside the room where the dyno is. OTR probably not that loud.[/QUOTE]
Well it sounded lovely today dave I do like over run burble backfires ;)
Post 581088 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 22:19:34
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581076]well done dave, now who is gonna custom map it?
as for air con, not bothered[/QUOTE]
I'd thought I'd check for you - but I guess it's up to you.
As for mapping it - Hamish is more than capable. We may get some input from Sweden/Autotech.
Post 581096 by V70 Graham on 2013-03-05 22:38:35
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581072]
She made 343bhp (crank) = 320WHP & peak torque was 460NM torque (wheels)
[/QUOTE]
Nice figures Dave.....and that's without a remap :B_thumb:
Post 581101 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 22:44:37
No that's with the custom 19T map - but it is not gonna work with the new setup. But thanks anyways.
Post 581103 by V70 Graham on 2013-03-05 22:46:16
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581101]No that's with the custom 19T map - but it is not gonna work with the new setup. But thanks anyways.[/QUOTE]
Sorry, meant without a CUSTOM map, my mistake :sorry:
Post 581105 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-05 22:48:02
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;581103]Sorry, meant without a CUSTOM map, my mistake :sorry:[/QUOTE] No it just me being pedantic. It's a good start though & will form the basis for the map going forward.
Post 581128 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-05 23:21:19
Glad it's all in 1 piece mate i know full well the 1st run after a rebuild i was §§§§ing myself lol, got hopefully my final test at 1.7bar sat and it dont get any easier lol
Post 581134 by martybelfastt5 on 2013-03-05 23:35:22
oohhh tasty
Post 581159 by lance on 2013-03-06 09:05:52
Good start
Post 581160 by lance on 2013-03-06 09:07:09
Good figures watching with great intrest can't wait to see her in action
Post 581166 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 09:51:37
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581128]Glad it's all in 1 piece mate i know full well the 1st run after a rebuild i was §§§§ing myself lol, got hopefully my final test at 1.7bar sat and it dont get any easier lol[/QUOTE]
The only difference between the s-h-it boxes is the colour ;) - Good luck with that.
Post 581191 by smithy on 2013-03-06 11:59:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581166]The only difference between the s-h-it boxes is the colour ;) - Good luck with that.[/QUOTE]
Are we talking about cars dave lol
Post 581193 by p fandango on 2013-03-06 12:10:06
how much more do you reckons to come?
Post 581194 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 12:10:15
Why didn't you map it yesterday Dave?
Post 581217 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 14:23:05
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581194]Why didn't you map it yesterday Dave?[/QUOTE]
Yesterday was about baselining what we have with the current custom map - looking at the AFRs, confirming our ideas about fueling, injectors etc - basically seeing what we are working with. Biggest reason - money & time. I have to buy the injectors & fuel pump yet. The kitty is a bit empty ATM.
[QUOTE=Pedro]how much more do you reckons to come?[/QUOTE]
It's difficult to say. I said that if I can make 400bhp - then anything above that is a bonus. I'd rather not set myself up for a fall - but I think she will make the numbers. The project goals which I sent to Hamish back in August 2012 were as follows...
Project Aims – Very fast Road/Race car.
[LIST]
[*]Driveability – this is not an entirely race focused project, some elements of road use need to be retained. I don’t want an all or nothing map – it needs to be as progressive as the current one just more of it. This is the hardest aim to achieve & hardest to measure.
[*]Speed & Power – I still intend to continue to compete in ¼ mile. 13.2 seconds is my goal. 7 tenths faster than current.
[*]I still intend to use it on 3 to 4 track days per year & be fairly confident it will retain its unbroken record so durability of 2 years – 20k miles
[/LIST]
Perhaps we can look back at this in a few months & see if I can tick any of these?
Post 581290 by claymore on 2013-03-06 18:33:25
Dave, I don't remember reading if you've shimmed your liners? I hope you have, or you'll be in the same boat as me once you turn your boost up.
Post 581291 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 18:35:47
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581217]Yesterday was about baselining what we have with the current custom map - looking at the AFRs, confirming our ideas about fueling, injectors etc - basically seeing what we are working with. Biggest reason - money & time. I have to buy the injectors & fuel pump yet. The kitty is a bit empty ATM.
It's difficult to say. I said that if I can make 400bhp - then anything above that is a bonus. I'd rather not set myself up for a fall - but I think she will make the numbers. The project goals which I sent to Hamish back in August 2012 were as follows...
Project Aims – Very fast Road/Race car.
[LIST]
[*]Driveability – this is not an entirely race focused project, some elements of road use need to be retained. I don’t want an all or nothing map – it needs to be as progressive as the current one just more of it. This is the hardest aim to achieve & hardest to measure.
[*]Speed & Power – I still intend to continue to compete in ¼ mile. 13.2 seconds is my goal. 7 tenths faster than current.
[*]I still intend to use it on 3 to 4 track days per year & be fairly confident it will retain its unbroken record so durability of 2 years – 20k miles
[/LIST]
Perhaps we can look back at this in a few months & see if I can tick any of these?[/QUOTE]
i love the way you undersell that set up, you know that you can make near on 500bhp with that turbo, i wouldnt be happy with anything less than 450bhp imo
Post 581455 by smithy on 2013-03-06 21:37:53
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581291]i love the way you undersell that set up, you know that you can make near on 500bhp with that turbo, i wouldnt be happy with anything less than 450bhp imo[/QUOTE]
I have a setup for over 600bhp but I'm only going to run 350 whp so I understand we're dave is coming from.
Post 581457 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 21:39:47
[QUOTE=smithy;581455]I have a setup for over 600bhp but I'm only going to run 350 whp so I understand we're dave is coming from.[/QUOTE]
not when you count how much you have spent bhp per £
Post 581465 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-06 21:43:33
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581457]not when you count how much you have spent bhp per £[/QUOTE]
Trust me mate Smithy's costs on parts are up with Dave's it's just taken him longer cos he keeps buying new bit's think he's caught a dose of the Fandango's :)
Post 581471 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 21:46:22
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581465]Trust me mate Smithy's costs on parts are up with Dave's it's just taken him longer cos he keeps buying new bit's think he's caught a dose of the Fandango's :)[/QUOTE]
and like duane, carls car won't ever see the light of day lol
Post 581475 by V70 Graham on 2013-03-06 21:47:28
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581465]..... think he's caught a dose of the Fandango's :)[/QUOTE]
Is that a proper medical condition ?
Post 581478 by stribo on 2013-03-06 21:47:57
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;581475]Is that a proper medical condition ?[/QUOTE]
Sounds painful.
Post 581482 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-06 21:49:33
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;581475]Is that a proper medical condition ?[/QUOTE]
Very common in Sweden i hear
[QUOTE=stribo;581478]Sounds painful.[/QUOTE]
Only on the wallet mate
Post 581485 by p fandango on 2013-03-06 21:50:41
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581471]and like duane, carls car won't ever see the light of day lol[/QUOTE]
it took you 6 years to beat the time i got with a 15g, when theirs some competition then i'll panic lol
Post 581488 by smithy on 2013-03-06 21:52:27
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581465]Trust me mate Smithy's costs on parts are up with Dave's it's just taken him longer cos he keeps buying new bit's think he's caught a dose of the Fandango's :)[/QUOTE]
The only reason mine has cost some money because I keep changing my mind and yes it will be on the road this year .i have only got to buy 1 part and then she will be running .
Post 581492 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 21:54:39
Looking at the numbers I'd have to be making 500NM at 6500rpm to make 450. More if revs are lower.
It's going to be a monster either way & I have a good feeling about it. It's not all about the pub & willy waving numbers. The curve has to be usuable.
Post 581493 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 21:55:06
[QUOTE=p fandango;581485]it took you 6 years to beat the time i got with a 15g, when theirs some competition then i'll panic lol[/QUOTE]
6 years? ive only been doing this 2 and that was a year ago lol so 1 year mate
Post 581494 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 21:55:54
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581492]Looking at the numbers I'd have to be making 500NM at 6500rpm to make 450. More if revs are lower.
It's going to be a monster either way & I have a good feeling about it. It's not all about the pub & willy waving numbers. The curve has to be usuable.[/QUOTE]
dean is making over 500nms and 345bhp on his 19t
Post 581496 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 21:56:51
Bought my 300lph fuel pump today.
Post 581504 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-06 21:59:33
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581492]Looking at the numbers I'd have to be making 500NM at 6500rpm to make 450. More if revs are lower.
It's going to be a monster either way & I have a good feeling about it. It's not all about the pub & willy waving numbers. The curve has to be usuable.[/QUOTE]
I agree, but it would be nice to have the most powerful c70 in the country would'nt it :)
Post 581506 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 22:00:50
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581504]I agree, but it would be nice to have the most powerful c70 in the country would'nt it :)[/QUOTE]
he probably already has
Post 581508 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 22:01:27
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581494]dean is making over 500nms and 345bhp on his 19t[/QUOTE]
depends whereabout in the rev range - this occurs. Peak figures are not the complete story.
Post 581511 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-06 22:02:29
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581506]he probably already has[/QUOTE]
True not many hair dresser's tune car's :)
Post 581513 by graemewelch on 2013-03-06 22:04:05
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581504]I agree, but it would be nice to have the most powerful c70 in the country would'nt it :)[/QUOTE]
most powerful isnt always the fastest though. but if i was in wobblys position though common sense would go out the window and id be saying i want 1000bhp.
Post 581515 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-06 22:05:45
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581504]I agree, but it would be nice to have the most powerful c70 in the country would'nt it :)[/QUOTE]
I am trying not to get too excited about it.
Post 581516 by smithy on 2013-03-06 22:06:03
I think 360whp would be good for dave and same for me
Post 581518 by T5frankie on 2013-03-06 22:07:41
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;581511]True not many hair dresser's tune car's :)[/QUOTE]
pmsl
Post 581520 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-06 22:11:13
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581494]dean is making over 500nms and 345bhp on his 19t[/QUOTE]tis mate but think it needs a clutch now ;-(. @ 1.4
Post 581812 by EddyP on 2013-03-07 20:22:36
These look very good to me:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321083827105
You can get pretty much any sensor on the display, boost, AFR, EGT, charge temp etc....
Post 581858 by T5frankie on 2013-03-07 21:46:30
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;581520]tis mate but think it needs a clutch now ;-(. @ 1.4[/QUOTE]
turn the boost down then lol
Post 581864 by danny-R on 2013-03-07 21:50:50
I think you will be giving the fast 850's some hassle on the drag strip WD. Will it be mapped before york?
Post 581869 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-07 21:55:24
[QUOTE=T5frankie;581858]turn the boost down then lol[/QUOTE]could just be down to cold damp weather tho;-)
Post 581914 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-07 23:16:09
Hoping it'll be ready for avon. Next week we'll run her again. Bought my ASNU 650cc injectors today. Put those & the 300LPH fuel pump in - see what we've got & go from there.
Post 581917 by danny-R on 2013-03-07 23:29:03
I think dean and James will be sweating now lol
Post 581924 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-08 00:24:48
it'll be defo ready for York. I am also hoping to hold up our end/ Volvo honours at Brighton speed trials in September.
Post 584276 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-14 22:34:44
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20743[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20744[/ATTACH]
Progress today has been successful if not a little slow. The Bosch 300lph pump is too big to go inside the tank. So I am mounting in the boot space. The other thing you can see is the inline pre-pump filter we installed.
ASNU injectors are in. Car runs fine (a little lumpy as it is overfuelling a bit). Tomorrow I am going to tidy up the install and start mapping.
TBH I am disappointed that the new pump didn't fit into the tank, but it is the pump that ASNU recommended for their injectors. I am also amazed by how small the original pump is.
Post 584279 by M-R-P on 2013-03-14 22:36:59
Phwar!
Keep it going Dave, looking forward to the dyno results after mapping ;)
Post 584281 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-14 22:54:08
I am still in 2 minds - on one hand the bosch 044 is a proven 300lph pump in motorsport circles. On the downside - having it outside means the whine is audible (though I may not hear it in the cabin), you can knock it and plumbing it in has been more difficult. And can I find a 60mm P clamp in a shop? Can I like thump.
I am going to mount it inside a junction box I bought. I may hide it behind the carpet wall yet.
Post 584285 by M-R-P on 2013-03-14 22:59:52
Stick it inside an amp/sub box? (obviously not with an amp in there with it lol)
Or make a feature of it with chrome and neons ;)
Post 584288 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-14 23:06:27
I am now paranoid about some fireblazing catastrophe - not that it leaks or anything.
Post 584290 by M-R-P on 2013-03-14 23:11:35
That's why they call it a firewall *ahem*
Post 584298 by stribo on 2013-03-15 00:24:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;581924]it'll be defo ready for York.[COLOR="#FF0000"] I am also hoping to hold up our end/ Volvo honours at Brighton speed trials in September.[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
I used to go down there regularly to what the trials, and now I know you're running we'll be down this year, don't ecpect a decent time though, there's literally no grip.
Post 584303 by p fandango on 2013-03-15 02:48:47
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584276][ATTACH=CONFIG]20743[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20744[/ATTACH]
Progress today has been successful if not a little slow. The Bosch 300lph pump is too big to go inside the tank. So I am mounting in the boot space. The other thing you can see is the inline pre-pump filter we installed.
ASNU injectors are in. Car runs fine (a little lumpy as it is overfuelling a bit). Tomorrow I am going to tidy up the install and start mapping.
TBH I am disappointed that the new pump didn't fit into the tank, but it is the pump that ASNU recommended for their injectors. I am also amazed by how small the original pump is.[/QUOTE]
LINK
Post 584319 by V70 Graham on 2013-03-15 07:25:48
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584288]I am now paranoid about some fireblazing catastrophe - not that it leaks or anything.[/QUOTE]
Are you allowed to mount it outside ?
I'm sure it will be safe but with the whine etc maybe a custom housing of some kind.
Post 584344 by Brett855tdi on 2013-03-15 10:11:19
Older cars did have them outside like how the filters are mounted on these volvos... i had a little old mk1 golf gti that had an external pump fitted under the back, it used to make it feel like i was waking the car up and bringing it to life when ever i turned the key lol i thought it was kinda cool
Post 584364 by jardon on 2013-03-15 11:41:43
Dave, why not fit an in-tank pump? Petrol pump in the boot space is madness - I'm up for some risk but that is completely uneccesary. The deatschwerks pump is good for >300 lph and will fit in the stock pot. The Bosch pump could be mounted outside the cabin.
Post 584402 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 13:14:45
[QUOTE=Brett855tdi;584344]Older cars did have them outside like how the filters are mounted on these volvos... i had a little old mk1 golf gti that had an external pump fitted under the back, it used to make it feel like i was waking the car up and bringing it to life when ever i turned the key lol i thought it was kinda cool[/QUOTE]
Post pump filters are underneath the car near the o/s wheel arch.
Post 584403 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 13:17:31
[QUOTE=jardon;584364]Dave, why not fit an in-tank pump? Petrol pump in the boot space is madness - I'm up for some risk but that is completely uneccesary. The deatschwerks pump is good for >300 lph and will fit in the stock pot. The Bosch pump could be mounted outside the cabin.[/QUOTE]
It's not madness - it's just a bit more complex that I wanted. Currently I will have to mount the pre-filter & pump in the boot space.
Post 584404 by smithy on 2013-03-15 13:20:41
[QUOTE=jardon;584364]Dave, why not fit an in-tank pump? Petrol pump in the boot space is madness - I'm up for some risk but that is completely uneccesary. The deatschwerks pump is good for >300 lph and will fit in the stock pot. The Bosch pump could be mounted outside the cabin.[/QUOTE]
That's the pump I'm fitting to the 940
Post 584620 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 22:26:20
Brief update. Car is running fine. Bosch 44 is noisy. We made no changes to the map & made 350whp (445NM), 365bhp. Betsy will hopefully run next weekend.
Still a bit to go yet but it's a promising start. Just to enough to say that it proper f&*ks off now - not that she was slow before hand.
Post 584623 by T5frankie on 2013-03-15 22:31:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584620]Brief update. Car is running fine. Bosch 44 is noisy. We made no changes to the map & made 350whp (445NM), 365bhp. Betsy will hopefully run next weekend.
Still a bit to go yet but it's a promising start. Just to enough to say that it proper f&*ks off now - not that she was slow before hand.[/QUOTE]
whats with the low torque dave? what boost is it running?
Post 584629 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 22:36:50
Trust me the torque is not low.
Post 584631 by T5frankie on 2013-03-15 22:39:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584629]Trust me the torque is not low.[/QUOTE]
it is dave, for that turbo its low its capable of much more, thats alot less than my 19t produced at 18psi
Post 584641 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 22:48:21
Overall the torque is higher & it's also far from being finished. This is the starting point. No changes have been made to the ATP map.
Post 584642 by T5frankie on 2013-03-15 22:50:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584641]Overall the torque is higher & it's also far from being finished. This is the starting point. No changes have been made to the ATP map.[/QUOTE]
be good to see what it runs now, both you and jim have more powerful t5's than dean now so should be good to watch
Post 584648 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-15 22:52:21
Nice Dave well done mate, still a lot of refining to do its a steep learning curve lol, going to be good seeing you next to me at the strip :)
Post 584650 by T5frankie on 2013-03-15 22:55:24
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;584648]Nice Dave well done mate, still a lot of refining to do its a steep learning curve lol, going to be good seeing you next to me at the strip :)[/QUOTE]
ill video you both getting beaten by corsas lol
Post 584653 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-15 22:56:36
Nice result dave Yeah 13.3 to beat let's hope u and jim can do it.
Post 584657 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-15 23:00:34
[QUOTE=T5frankie;584642]be good to see what it runs now, both you and jim have more powerful t5's than dean now so should be good to watch[/QUOTE]
Ive got budget tyres and §§§§ too soft suspension (getting my excuses in early) :)
Need's a few more pennies to make it right for me but that will come......
Post 584665 by p fandango on 2013-03-15 23:05:22
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;584657]Ive got budget tyres and §§§§ too soft suspension (getting my excuses in early) :)
Need's a few more pennies to make it right for me but that will come......[/QUOTE]
you still running the stock diff?
Post 584666 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 23:05:30
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;584648]Nice Dave well done mate, still a lot of refining to do its a steep learning curve lol, going to be good seeing you next to me at the strip :)[/QUOTE]
I think many believe that racking up with a big turbo & forged rods = instant massive result. TBH I am just pleased that it doesn't leak and hasn't blown up.
Now just a case of eliminating the next bottleneck. And that is a never ending process. Next on the shopping list is a bigger MAF housing. Anyone know where I can get one of those?
Post 584667 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-15 23:06:55
Lol I dint have any good tyres mate just turned up and run could always turn the boost up bit more see if that works;-)
Post 584668 by p fandango on 2013-03-15 23:08:35
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584666]I think many believe that racking up with a big turbo & forged rods = instant massive result. TBH I am just pleased that it doesn't leak and hasn't blown up.
Now just a case of eliminating the next bottleneck. And that is a never ending process. Next on the shopping list is a bigger MAF housing. Anyone know where I can get one of those?[/QUOTE]
make one, admittedly i'd already got off-cuts of the right size tubing. An hour(ish) making the flange & drilling the holes, & £10 to get it welded together (estimate as i had other work done at the same time)
Post 584673 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-15 23:12:28
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584666]I think many believe that racking up with a big turbo & forged rods = instant massive result. TBH I am just pleased that it doesn't leak and hasn't blown up.
Now just a case of eliminating the next bottleneck. And that is a never ending process. Next on the shopping list is a bigger MAF housing. Anyone know where I can get one of those?[/QUOTE]
Yeah i was over the moon nothing went pop last weekend it was the big test for mine got some confidence in it now to boot it proper lol
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;584667]Lol I dint have any good tyres mate just turned up and run could always turn the boost up bit more see if that works;-)[/QUOTE]
Coil over's must help a touch :)
Post 584676 by WOODY T5 on 2013-03-15 23:16:43
In wot way?
Post 584680 by Jamest5r on 2013-03-15 23:21:21
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;584676]In wot way?[/QUOTE]
Mine lift's too much and goes light so losing grip got to be better staying flater
Post 584681 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 23:21:23
[QUOTE=p fandango;584668]make one, admittedly i'd already got off-cuts of the right size tubing. An hour(ish) making the flange & drilling the holes, & £10 to get it welded together (estimate as i had other work done at the same time)
[/QUOTE]
I think at a push I can get something organised. I looked on-line but it's unclear about the mounting plate.
Post 584682 by p fandango on 2013-03-15 23:24:19
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584681]I think at a push I can get something organised. I looked on-line but it's unclear about the mounting plate.[/QUOTE]
i just used the sensor as a template. Drill a 40mm hole (or was it 45mm) in the sheet aluminium, push the sensor into it then draw round it
Post 584683 by smithy on 2013-03-15 23:25:33
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584681]I think at a push I can get something organised. I looked on-line but it's unclear about the mounting plate.[/QUOTE]
I'm making mine fit in a 4 in tube lol
Post 584684 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-15 23:30:24
MAF above 5200 is maxed out - so I need a bigger housing to slow the intake air down & fool the sensor. I am in 2 minds about running 4" all the way down, which will involve in extending the heater hoses or whether 3" will do the trick. hmmm.
Post 584687 by smithy on 2013-03-15 23:39:25
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584684]MAF above 5200 is maxed out - so I need a bigger housing to slow the intake air down & fool the sensor. I am in 2 minds about running 4" all the way down, which will involve in extending the heater hoses or whether 3" will do the trick. hmmm.[/QUOTE]
A 3in maf housing will be fine mate .i have a 4in opening on my filter too
Post 584782 by claymore on 2013-03-16 09:17:05
V6 Vauxhall Omega maf housing is 80mm.
Post 584788 by graemewelch on 2013-03-16 09:33:02
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;584281]I am still in 2 minds - on one hand the bosch 044 is a proven 300lph pump in motorsport circles. On the downside - having it outside means the whine is audible (though I may not hear it in the cabin), you can knock it and plumbing it in has been more difficult. And can I find a 60mm P clamp in a shop? Can I like thump.
I am going to mount it inside a junction box I bought. I may hide it behind the carpet wall yet.[/QUOTE]
ill try and get you one. i deal with a mikalor supplier
Post 584826 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-16 11:07:02
I bought some online. It was more to get one for Friday. I have secured the pump with cable ties for now inside the junction box.
Post 590592 by smithy on 2013-03-31 02:08:42
I like your new pump mate looks very nice .and I cannot wait to see the car on the strip against James should be a good race .i will be there to whatch this .
Post 590595 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-03-31 02:13:51
I expect James to beat me TBH.
Post 590597 by smithy on 2013-03-31 02:22:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;590595]I expect James to beat me TBH.[/QUOTE]
All I have to say we will see on the day mate .we don't know what is going to happen on the day mate .but I will be there to watch though.
Post 593769 by jardon on 2013-04-06 23:46:13
Glad you got that fuel pump fixed Dave. I've been pleased with my DW300 and I have mistreated it. Seems quite robust.
Post 605320 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-12 21:56:53
It seems such a long time since everything was working properly. I've had to swap a sump over - sump plug would not stop leaking, steering rack needed doing after my 2nd hand one gave out (4 years after fitting mind), idle map development is very slow, MAF sensor seemed to give out unexpectedly & I am not sure whether the codes I still get are part of that.
Car hasn't run properly since late Feb, when it had a proper sneeze at WOT on the motorway slip road. Coffers are at an all time low & I feel anxious most of the time.
Regardless, I've been pushing on with plans to slow the air down going into the GTX. The MAF sensor was maxing out with a 3" MAF housing.
So today I bought this....
http://www.jbsautodesigns.co.uk/product/3909/jbs-4-maf-housing
and Graeme W has been helping me with the rest of the 4" system (MAF>> Turbo). GTX has a 4" inlet - clearance on the rear G/B mount is very tight. I stuck the joiner on it & it basically is sitting on it. Some dremel work may be required to get the juby clip to fit - YIKES.
Ripsta sent me some extra heater hoses, which I have taken the brass adapters off. I can just jubilee extra pipe on it. As yet I have no idea if I'll be ready for York.
Post 605323 by t5 pete on 2013-05-12 22:02:56
Keep in there dave it will be worth it in the end what happend in feb on the slip road or is that when you lost coolant
Post 605325 by M-R-P on 2013-05-12 22:03:41
C'mon Dave, you've dealt with tougher situations. Of it's not done sooner, it'll be later but you'll get there;)
Post 605334 by graemewelch on 2013-05-12 22:34:19
ill have the pipe work with you by friday at latest. i realy hope to see you and your beast at york. the teething problems on a project like this are often the most frustrating. youll get there though. like has already been said. the hard work has been done.
if you want to go down the mikalor route let me know. i can them at very good prices
Post 605336 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-12 22:38:15
Hang in there Dave, ive been there as most who have modded car's, it will be worth it :)
Post 605337 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-12 22:40:28
[QUOTE=t5 pete;605323]Keep in there dave it will be worth it in the end what happend in feb on the slip road or is that when you lost coolant[/QUOTE]
Actually it was more like March. I was charging up the slip road - seemed to be fine, but either the MAF gave up or the fresh air pipe got sucked into the engine bay (because muggins 'ere forgot to secure it). Not sure which but the throttle snapped shut & nearly propelled me through the windscreen. Upto that point it was running & holding 1.5 bar & going like a train.
After the sneeze it kept misbehaving - overboosting to 1.8 bar (and detonating).
Then I sold a genuine Bosch MAF sensor 1 week before hand for 20 quid - which in hindsight was stupid. I didn't realise the new ones on ebay are cheap chinese knock-offs & the genuine onese are 150 quid new.
I was worried for a while that I'd damaged the new engine - but the sniffer test was negative & compression was equal and good across all 5.
I just get worked up about the whole thing. Spending all this money & then just having a collection of vaguely shiny bits in a 13 year old coupe. i shouldn't gripe about it I know but I just feel a bit down. It is unique in a sense that no-one else has stuck a GTX3071 on the t5 engine to my knowledge. Perhaps with good reason.
Post 605345 by smithy on 2013-05-12 23:18:01
You will get there in the end mate
Post 605354 by Volvostorm on 2013-05-12 23:39:16
Honestly Dave, I don't think you have had that many problems, bearing n mind, you are in uncharted territory, first GTX on a ME7, keep going, it will be worth it! :D
Post 605385 by V70 Graham on 2013-05-13 09:24:13
As Paul and others have said Dave, you are doing things no one else has. There will be problems, and when you get over this, and get everything running well you know it will all have been worth it.
Keep up the great work mate.
Post 605414 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-13 12:49:32
Sorry about last night - I was feeling sorry for myself & a tad mopey. If this was easy - everyone would be doing it, right?
I've ordered the extra heater hose I need - because the stuff A.S.H. had sent was breather hose in silicon - which is all well and good but not much use for carrying the wet stuff.
Sometimes internet ordering is not as good as shopping for real. Waiting for stuff to turn up etc. sending it back, but it is cheaper, I guess, than having to pay for someone else's overheads.
Post 605416 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-05-13 13:00:05
looking good dave.
Post 605418 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-13 13:14:11
[QUOTE=partsforvolvos.com;605416]looking good dave.[/QUOTE]
Your support & everyone else's encouragement is appreciated.
Post 605430 by jardon on 2013-05-13 14:16:32
Have you tried running it without the BCS ie: compressor plumbed directly to the actuator. Bear in mind that you are running this new hardware (in particular significantly bigger turbo, Snabb BCS and 1 bar actuator) with a 19t map so the ECU will be seeing all sorts of unfamiliar figures and making the "wrong" decisions. That might include closing the ETM due to higher than expected boost. Overboost might occur if the ECU detects the larger turbo not building boost like the spool-happy 19t and increases the BCS duty. These are all "might" type suggestions but are easy to play around with. Thorough data logging of sensor activity would be helpful eg: MAF, BCS duty, Injector opening times, ETM angle, Lambda, and ignition advance. You shouldn't be able to make it detonate but if you get significant enough knock sensor activity then all manner of engine protection will make WOT running flat or unpredictable. For instance if you look at my ignition advance compared to Husseins on T5D5 (450whp) they are chalk and cheese - I could run a lot more because my 19t was not efficient enough to cause a problem. You couldn't run that ignition map on a turbo built to flow 500bhp. Just blue sky thinking here but logging it with a DiCE could be illuminating.
Post 605446 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-13 15:05:00
[QUOTE=jardon;605430]Have you tried running it without the BCS ie: compressor plumbed directly to the actuator. Bear in mind that you are running this new hardware (in particular significantly bigger turbo, Snabb BCS and 1 bar actuator) with a 19t map so the ECU will be seeing all sorts of unfamiliar figures and making the "wrong" decisions.
[/QUOTE]
Yes I have - and it ran a really nice curve, good power but not where I want to end up. All of this is up in the air.
[QUOTE=jardon;605430]
That might include closing the ETM due to higher than expected boost. Overboost might occur if the ECU detects the larger turbo not building boost like the spool-happy 19t and increases the BCS duty. These are all "might" type suggestions but are easy to play around with. Thorough data logging of sensor activity would be helpful eg: MAF, BCS duty, Injector opening times, ETM angle, Lambda, and ignition advance. You shouldn't be able to make it detonate but if you get significant enough knock sensor activity then all manner of engine protection will make WOT running flat or unpredictable. For instance if you look at my ignition advance compared to Husseins on T5D5 (450whp) they are chalk and cheese - I could run a lot more because my 19t was not efficient enough to cause a problem. You couldn't run that ignition map on a turbo built to flow 500bhp. Just blue sky thinking here but logging it with a DiCE could be illuminating.[/QUOTE]
It is all too early to say. Nothing is finished yet. I am guilty of opening my mouth too soon. The original 19T was intended as a starting point not the finished article. MAF saturation was seen, so it is imperative to slow the inbound air & trick the MAF at WOT above 5200 rpm = 4" intake. That's what the GTX compressor housing has anyway.
It will more than likely end up on old skool mechanical boost control because the ME7 isn't smart/fast enough - which is a shame as I had high hopes for the snabb TCV. It's not the TCV fault.
Once I have the MAF saturation sorted out - there will be more testing and fettling to do. I wasn't really looking for solutions or to go anywhere near T5D5 TBH. Last night's diatribe was more of a mid-project whinge.
Post 605460 by jardon on 2013-05-13 16:02:59
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;605446]It will more than likely end up on old skool mechanical boost control because the ME7 isn't smart/fast enough - which is a shame as I had high hopes for the snabb TCV. It's not the TCV fault.
[/QUOTE]
The stock TCV or the Snabb should be fine but with some hefty alterations to the map. I ran an MBC a few months ago just for fun but could not get it to hold say 1.4 bar without boosting off the end of my 2 bar gauge. I could get it to peak at 1.4 bar but then it would hold at around 1 bar. It may have been a duff MBC or may poor workmanship. The issue you may face is the the way your ETM functions relative to boost. In a cable throttle car spool is controlled by your right foot to some extent but in your car the ETM will spend a lot of it's time wide open with the torque being controlled by BCS duty. I would try an MBC but but use a good quality one. The 19t map will not be suitable so don't throw the BCS away just yet - if you got a nice boost response with the BCS unplumbed then with low BCS duty you should able to control boost far better than with an MBC. Bear in mind you will need to alter other aspects of the map anyway even with an MBC. With an MBC my car pulled timing a lot sooner as the spool was riotous. It's OK to whinge!!
Post 605466 by smithy on 2013-05-13 16:13:46
You can borrow my forge mbc dave no problems
Post 605467 by MoleT-5R on 2013-05-13 16:15:40
Just keep chipping away Dave, we all have our down days, I've no doubts that you'll conquer Betsy's troubles Mate
Post 605476 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-13 16:39:17
[QUOTE=smithy;605466]You can borrow my forge mbc dave no problems[/QUOTE]
Jardon said a quality MBC - derrr! LOL
Post 605509 by MoleT-5R on 2013-05-13 18:33:37
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;605476]Jardon said a quality MBC - derrr! LOL[/QUOTE]
lol.. sense of humour has not gone then...quality
Post 605589 by smithy on 2013-05-13 21:07:58
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;605476]Jardon said a quality MBC - derrr! LOL[/QUOTE]
What can I say to that errrr sorry the swear filter is on lol
Post 605697 by iancho on 2013-05-14 08:04:54
We are all behind you Dave :smile: it was never going to be easy or straight forward, i admire your guts for sticking with it.
Post 606612 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-16 00:52:10
This evening I have fabricated my extended heater matrix hoses
and shaved part the rib on the top of the rear gearbox mount so that the 4 inch clears it with a few microns to spare. I can get the mikalor clamp in without having to put it on first then squeezing the silicon joiner - like I had to before - which is nice.
Some may observe the strategic use of cable ties on one heater hose. This is holding a sacrificial wrap of hose because the new hose sits against the rear mount & I don't want it rubbing through the heater pipe, however unlikely that maybe. I still don't understand how water flows in & out of the main branch at the back.
hopefully tomorrow my new MAF housing will arrive, along with the welded pipe work. I'll need to cut the hole for the PTC valve grommet.
Feeling pretty pleased even though it isn't all that much.
Frankie - 11 blades mate (count 'em & weep LOL)
Post 606621 by T5frankie on 2013-05-16 05:48:30
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;606612]This evening I have fabricated my extended heater matrix hoses
and shave the rib on the top of the rear gearbox mount so that the 4 inch clears it with a few microns to spare. I can get the mikalor clamp in without having to put it on first then squeezing the silicon joiner - like I had to before.
Some may observe the strategic use of cable ties on one heater hose. This is holding a sacrificial wrap of hose because the new hose sits against the rear mount & I don't want it rubbing through the heater pipe, however unlikely that maybe.
hopefully tomorrow my new MAF housing will arrive, along with the welded pipe work. I'll need to cut the hole for the PTC valve grommet.
Feeling pretty pleased even though it isn't all that much.
Frankie - 11 blades mate (count 'em & weep LOL)[/QUOTE]
I am mate, I can't wait to see it run Dave I get my modded 19t back today and for the 1St time I have a 3'' downpipe to match
Post 606649 by M-R-P on 2013-05-16 08:26:31
I notice you're still using the ptc valve. Is it THAT crucial? I removed mine as there was no port for it in the 3" maf to turbo. I've just plumbed the ptc hose in on a spare 12mm port.
Post 606737 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-16 11:42:45
My logic is just using what was already there. I thought about deleting it. I'd need to research it first.
Post 606772 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-16 14:38:26
Well today is a good day - more pieces of the jigsaw arrived. New 104mm ITG & the welded pipes from Graeme - (cheers very much for your help). Need to fit the ribbed breather adaptors & cut the thing to size.
All that remains is the 4" MAF housing, top up the coolant & set the new cold air feed. I'll probably need a bracket to keep the thing from running around.
Post 606773 by M-R-P on 2013-05-16 14:57:02
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;606737]My logic is just using what was already there. I thought about deleting it. I'd need to research it first.[/QUOTE]
Well, I was pushed for time, started fitting the pipe and when it came to fitting all the pipes, I realised there wasn't a cutout for the valve so I thought "sod it". I unplugged the valve and just attached the pipe to the port on the inlet. I was expecting the car to throw a fit, in true ME7 fashion, but all is well and she's running fine :)
I suppose I should look into exactly whet the valve does, but it's permanently open (is it supposed to close?) and has a smaller port than the pipe connected to it so it's one less part of the PCV to get blocked.
Ho-hum :D
Post 606777 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-16 15:27:13
I've always thought it was a control valve for the PCV system - I bet that it varies the amount of stuff going back depending throttle state?
Post 606778 by M-R-P on 2013-05-16 15:34:30
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;606777]I've always thought it was a control valve for the PCV system - I bet that it varies the amount of stuff going back depending throttle state?[/QUOTE]
Worthy of some investigation I feel.
Post 606786 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-16 16:04:35
Search is our friend..
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?35645-WTF-does-the-PCT-Valve-actaully-do
Sorely tempted to get rid, if indeed it's not a valve at all, just a small heater.
Post 606822 by graemewelch on 2013-05-16 18:49:31
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;606772]Well today is a good day - more pieces of the jigsaw arrived. New 104mm ITG & the welded pipes from Graeme - (cheers very much for your help). Need to fit the ribbed breather adaptors & cut the thing to size.
All that remains is the 4" MAF housing, top up the coolant & set the new cold air feed. I'll probably need a bracket to keep the thing from running around.[/QUOTE]
.
hope the bits i done are ok. just wish id had more time todo complete job. looking forward to seeing your motor at york
Post 606829 by T5frankie on 2013-05-16 19:04:18
cool, do you think you will run it at york Dave?
Post 607051 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-17 00:39:14
Touch n go - I will try my hardest to get there.
Post 607066 by M-R-P on 2013-05-17 07:32:56
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;606786]Search is our friend..
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?35645-WTF-does-the-PCT-Valve-actaully-do
Sorely tempted to get rid, if indeed it's not a valve at all, just a small heater.[/QUOTE]
The idea of it being a heater has been in my mind for a while actually. I'd read something about it on matthewsvolvosite.
The other thing that's bothering me is the PTC has about a 4-5mm hole to vent through but the rest of the pipework is about 9mm I/D. Could the smaller hole in the valve be there to reduce/restrict flow? could I be pulling loads of extra crud into the turbo? Hmmm... I'll pull a few pipes off in a week or so and see what the Bobby-Moore is.
Post 607471 by Dangerous Dave on 2013-05-18 01:24:59
Very nice Dave :)
Post 607480 by smithy on 2013-05-18 08:45:05
Very very nice mate
Post 607486 by V70 Graham on 2013-05-18 09:13:11
Very nice Dave, it's gonna be a tight fit to get it all in the engine bay.
Post 607491 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-18 09:51:54
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;607486]Very nice Dave, it's gonna be a tight fit to get it all in the engine bay.[/QUOTE]
Yes, I've already turned some jubilee clips around just to get the extra 5mm back taken up by the bolt.
Post 607827 by LiamT4 on 2013-05-19 00:02:40
Looks very nice in there, very professional.
What about removing a fog light and using the gap to have another cold air feed? Or would that spoil the look without giving much benefit?
Post 607829 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-19 00:05:41
Glad to see its all coming together mate, but i cant hear nothing but bird song :)
Post 607830 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-19 00:07:13
I'm already using the gap in the splitter - no need to remove a fog light - plus I like them (the fog lights)
Post 607833 by LiamT4 on 2013-05-19 00:09:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;607830]I'm already using the gap in the splitter - no need to remove a fog light - plus I like them (the fog lights)[/QUOTE]
Doesn't sound like your temps are that high anyway, either.
Post 607848 by iancho on 2013-05-19 06:45:00
Dave, it's a work of art under your bonnet and that video is frightening... Well done :smile:
Post 607855 by V70 Graham on 2013-05-19 07:17:30
Great work Dave, amazing how you fitted it all in.
Post 607864 by T5frankie on 2013-05-19 08:44:46
looks great Dave, that pipe is mahoosive
Post 607869 by MIKESC70T5 on 2013-05-19 08:53:28
Wow that's very impressive and looks very professional, glad to see people doing things properly and not just mashing things together to get good power for 10 miles then blowing up lol. This is how Volvo should of originally built the c70 t5 engine, well done.
Post 607920 by graemewelch on 2013-05-19 11:23:21
looking good dave. good to see its coming together and hopfully another little hurdle out the way for way
Post 608255 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-19 23:55:32
[QUOTE=graemewelch;607920]looking good dave. good to see its coming together and hopfully another little hurdle out the way for way[/QUOTE] Couldn't have done it without your help.
Post 608257 by stribo on 2013-05-20 00:04:01
Good to see it coming together Dave, hope it now proves to be problem free.
Post 608260 by c70geoff on 2013-05-20 00:15:21
now thats what I call a dam good looking engine bay
sounds awesome and loving the time and effort you have put in to make this
well impressed with all the effort you have put into this fella
Post 609682 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:09:46
Well this is where I am running 1.3Bar on actuator pressure + MBC. We made at the wheels more or less the same HP figure as Mr Clancy, peak figures are not as high in the torque department on the run in question - but it is hugely long and properly grabs hold of the horizon at WOT.
I include my best run on the 19T for comparison. Now to see what will happen at York. All being well I should be able to get to the mid 13s.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21567[/ATTACH]
Post 609683 by M-R-P on 2013-05-24 14:16:41
Nice graph there Dave, looking forward to seeing the times :D
Post 609686 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:18:35
Fueling is bang on - and it is still smooth but in a violent way.
Post 609690 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 14:23:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;609682]Well this is where I am running 1.3Bar on actuator pressure + MBC. We made at the wheels more or less the same HP figure as Mr Clancy, peak figures are not as high in the torque department on the run in question - but it is hugely long and properly grabs hold of the horizon at WOT.
I include my best run on the 19T for comparison. Now to see what will happen at York. All being well I should be able to get to the mid 13s.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21567[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
That's what Jim thought
Post 609692 by V70 Graham on 2013-05-24 14:26:48
....and all the way to 7000rpm, me thinks you'll be worrying some peeps come Sunday.
Post 609694 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:27:59
[QUOTE=T5Frankie]That's what Jim thought[/QUOTE]
And by that you mean the results from Shakey recently? Difference is I was consistently pulling 14.2s all day long last year.
Post 609695 by graemewelch on 2013-05-24 14:29:07
i hope i make it to see this go down the strip. i take it the 4" maf has sorted your fueling.
Post 609696 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:31:04
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;609692]....and all the way to 7000rpm, me thinks you'll be worrying some peeps come Sunday.[/QUOTE]
VVT - it's the only advantage the ME7 has - because the idle & part throttle map has been a bit of a PITA.
I think though as a starting point for further development (this is still the original 19T map with a few tweaks to the part throttle) - I think I can live with it.
Post 609697 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:34:00
[QUOTE=graemewelch;609695]i hope i make it to see this go down the strip. i take it the 4" maf has sorted your fueling.[/QUOTE]
Yes - absolutely - no problems there. Idle map has a mind of it's own sometimes, particularly after initial start up - just part of the joys of taking the T5 to places it never expected to go.
Post 609699 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 14:53:15
Yeah but your wheels will have cope with that extra power and finding the grip
Post 609702 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 14:57:21
I also have a quaiffe LSD. I'll be bringing spare slicks for Jim to try out - though I found that road tyres worked better at York.
Post 609704 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-24 14:58:29
Nice one Dave, very happy its all coming together mate, fine tuning is the fun part now you know there are no leaks etc, see you tomorrow for a congrats beer :)
Post 609706 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-24 15:00:55
[QUOTE=T5frankie;609699]Yeah but your wheels will have cope with that extra power and finding the grip[/QUOTE]
I've turned my boost right down and actuator up to 19psi trying to calm it down, will get there in the end :)
Post 609707 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 15:02:46
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;609704]Nice one Dave, very happy its all coming together mate, fine tuning is the fun part now you know there are no leaks etc, see you tomorrow for a congrats beer :)[/QUOTE]
Looking forward to it immensely Mr Clancy.
Post 609708 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-24 15:06:03
You coming to mine tomorrow for the drive up
Post 609710 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 15:11:06
Meeting at Gale's K9 grooming place around 15:00 tomorrow.
Post 609715 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 15:47:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;609702]I think you should read what you write sometimes but I get the idea...
I also have a quaiffe LSD. I'll be bringing spare slicks for Jim to try out - though I found that road tyres worked better at York.[/QUOTE]
I ain't gonna comment on your threads anymore, you feel the need to teach me English all the time and it's boring, enjoy your car
Post 609733 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 16:57:30
the abuse is not exclusive. Someone else wrote "my patients is running out with my car" - to which my quip about letting other people drive it was not appreciated.
What can I say - Am sorry Frankie - I promise not to nit pick - your comments & opinions are most precious to me.
Please don't say it's over....
Post 609737 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 17:09:14
For Frankie
[video=youtube;1Tl-c_puzbM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Tl-c_puzbM[/video]
Post 609739 by WOODY T5 on 2013-05-24 17:15:16
Lol keep up the good work mate and the vids^^^^
Post 609741 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 17:24:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;609733]the abuse is not exclusive. Someone else wrote "my patients is running out with my car" - to which my quip about letting other people drive it was not appreciated.
What can I say - Am sorry Frankie - I promise not to nit pick - your comments & opinions are most precious to me.
Please don't say it's over....[/QUOTE]
gay!!!!!!!!!
for that i will show you my rear end on sunday you can count on it, don't count me out my car is pretty nippy now
Post 609746 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 17:30:38
damn i just posted..............and again
Post 609753 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 17:45:18
[QUOTE=T5frankie;609741]gay!!!!!!!!!
for that i will show you my rear end on sunday you can count on it [/QUOTE]
and I'm gay?? LOL
Post 609754 by Jamest5r on 2013-05-24 17:47:02
Bum bandits the pair of you,
Post 609756 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 17:50:43
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;609754]Bum bandits the pair of you,[/QUOTE]
and your kipping near him sat night lol careful
Post 609758 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-24 18:02:40
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;609739]Lol keep up the good work mate and the vids^^^^[/QUOTE]
If you like videos - here's one I made yesterday
[video=youtube;o1G_c2VsYJI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1G_c2VsYJI[/video]
Post 609766 by WOODY T5 on 2013-05-24 18:22:22
She sounds very nice dave
Post 609770 by T5frankie on 2013-05-24 18:32:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;609758]If you like videos - here's one I made yesterday
[video=youtube;o1G_c2VsYJI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1G_c2VsYJI[/video][/QUOTE]
sounds pretty quiet to me :haha:
Post 609776 by graemewelch on 2013-05-24 18:44:23
sound very beeft to me
Post 609835 by smithy on 2013-05-24 20:52:29
Sounds a average to me lol
Post 612378 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-05-31 23:55:17
Decided to straighten the airflow past the MAF sensor - see if it would help with the idle (which it seems to).
Still a little unhappy with the 2nd gear pickup but it is difficult to find a safe place to test it.
I put the air feed in from beneath as well as from infront. The homemade shield should hopefully preference the air from those rather than the air around the engine
Post 612380 by merc85 on 2013-06-01 00:16:32
Dont quite get the 4" pipe work with only a minimal air intake? But your 1/4 times speak for themselves so you must have done summit right lol
Post 612381 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-01 00:27:25
There is an additional cold air feed coming via an 89mm flexible pipe from underneath (you can't see it here)
the 4 inch intake is purely to fool the MAF sensor which on the OEM 3" housing became saturated at 5200 rpm. The 4 inch effectively "slows" the air down, plus the anti-surge intake on the GTX garrett is already 4".
Post 612382 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-01 00:34:10
Sorry about the picture quality
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21654[/ATTACH]
you can just make out the cold air feed from beneath - it comes in from the mouth of the splitter beneath the reg plate.
Post 612389 by craigoodwood on 2013-06-01 06:52:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612378]Still a little unhappy with the 2nd gear pickup but it is difficult to find a safe place to test it.[/QUOTE]
B to C is a nice straight quarter mile on fresh tarmac, my house overlooks it ill keep my ear open for ya ;)
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?saddr=Shepherd%27s+Ln&daddr=B5072+to:Lawley+Dr%2FA5223&hl=en&ll=52.680441,-2.474327&spn=0.027787,0.055189&sll=52.673897,-2.485292&sspn=0.006948,0.013797&geocode=Fa73IwMdA2Pa_w%3BFR_GIwMdgx7a_w%3BFeK2IwMdKhfa_w&t=h&mra=dme&mrsp=2&sz=16&z=14
Post 612403 by lance on 2013-06-01 08:58:36
Loving your work there mate looks cool and sounds awesome
Post 612414 by T5frankie on 2013-06-01 09:36:02
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612378]Decided to straighten the airflow past the MAF sensor - see if it would help with the idle (which it seems to).
Still a little unhappy with the 2nd gear pickup but it is difficult to find a safe place to test it.
I put the air feed in from beneath as well as from infront. The homemade shield should hopefully preference the air from those rather than the air around the engine
[/QUOTE]
your right about 2nd gear, thats where deans is so good, at the 1/8 mile he was 8mph faster than me already and at the 1/4 mile marker he was only 9mph faster, you can both get 2.2 60fts so 1st is good, its when he goes to 2nd he flies away from everyone, so you're right Dave 2nd is where to look at
Post 612422 by graemewelch on 2013-06-01 10:09:46
its 2nd gear down to mapping though. correct me if im wrong. are you planning on a full custom map
Post 612436 by smithy on 2013-06-01 10:56:34
I think his actuator needs fighting up he is on low boost 1.1 bar in second and 1.3 bar in 3rd 1.1 bar is too low boost for that turbo.dont forget he is using actuator pressure only .
Post 612443 by T5frankie on 2013-06-01 11:38:11
[QUOTE=graemewelch;612422]its 2nd gear down to mapping though. correct me if im wrong. are you planning on a full custom map[/QUOTE]
he needs one its still on the 19t map
Post 612722 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-01 22:11:43
My map doesn't control the boost ATM. I will see if I can get better control by tightening the actuator. Had some bad news about my contract on Friday. Suddenly buying Blitz SBC doesn't seem so important.
Post 612754 by LiamT4 on 2013-06-01 23:01:34
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612722]. Had some bad news about my contract on Friday.[/QUOTE]
Hope everythings ok mate. At least what you do is a specialised thing, hopefully if it is bad news you can find something quickly.
Post 612768 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-01 23:23:55
After 5 years on this contract the Germans want to reduce my hours from 40 to 32 (effectively a 20% rate cut) or face the chop at the start of July. Bit out of the blue TBH. All contracts come to an end. Guess I am back on the hunt again - at least it is not a dead stop. Time to move on.
Post 612770 by LiamT4 on 2013-06-01 23:26:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612768]After 5 years on this contract the Germans want to reduce my hours from 40 to 32 (effectively a 20% rate cut) or face the chop at the start of July. Bit out of the blue TBH. All contracts come to an end. Guess I am back on the hunt again - at least it is not a dead stop. Time to move on.[/QUOTE]
A lot of instability around at the minute mate, hopefully you'll get something sorted quickly. I think my place will lose its current contract by the end of the year, early next year at the latest.
Post 612784 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-01 23:48:27
Guess we'll find out this coming month
Post 612787 by LiamT4 on 2013-06-01 23:52:28
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612784]Guess we'll find out this coming month[/QUOTE]
Remember, if theres nothing you can do about it, then theres no point in worrying. Just get a plan together, in case it does go tits up.
Post 612859 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-02 10:56:57
My plan as it has been for the last 8 years of contracting is feel the fear and do it anyway. Worst case is I have to take less money for a while, which means all the bills are paid, food on the table but very little spare for projects. Even so it gives me time to find a new contract.
So with that in mind, I've bought the blitz SBC regardless.
Post 612862 by graemewelch on 2013-06-02 11:04:05
what is it you do dave
Post 612879 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-02 12:02:50
I am an IT database administrator/consultant on MS SQL Server. I've been working contract for the last 8 years - 5 of which have been on this gig with a small Dutch outfit you may have heard of ;). Actually it's a bit more complicated as I am contracted into the outsourcing branch of Deutsche Telecom - T-Systems (you may have heard of T-Mobile?) supporting Shell.
Previous engagements include Crawfords Insurance, Toyota Financial Services & JLR.
I specialise in tuning & performance - global escalation point for high severity problems and general go-to-guy when de stront aan de kikker to use the Dutch venacular.
Post 612915 by graemewelch on 2013-06-02 15:07:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;612879]I am an IT database administrator/consultant on MS SQL Server. I've been working contract for the last 8 years - 5 of which have been on this gig with a small Dutch outfit you may have heard of ;). Actually it's a bit more complicated as I am contracted into the outsourcing branch of Deutsche Telecom - T-Systems (you may have heard of T-Mobile?) supporting Shell.
Previous engagements include Crawfords Insurance, Toyota Financial Services & JLR.
I specialise in tuning & performance - global escalation point for high severity problems and general go-to-guy when de stront aan de kikker to use the Dutch venacular.[/QUOTE]
i got the t mobile bit. rest went over my head lol.
Post 612980 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-02 19:09:08
Just think of me next time a Shell station runs out of V-Power.
Post 613416 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-04 16:49:27
Today all the affected contractors in NL had a meeting with management - it appears nothing is changing after all. It's been miscommunicated - p$$ing a lot of people off - but it looks like my hours are safe after all? There's yet more to be finalised but I think it looks like it'll be ok after all.
Post 613421 by V70 Graham on 2013-06-04 17:03:47
Glad to hear your good news Dave, Betsy will be pleased !
Post 613428 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-04 17:11:34
More over the wife!!
Post 617811 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-18 16:28:30
it took a while to land from the other side of the pond - but it's finally here...
BNIB...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21782[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21783[/ATTACH]
just need now to figure out how to fit it.
Post 617812 by T5frankie on 2013-06-18 16:36:50
good luck working that thing out lol
Post 617813 by M-R-P on 2013-06-18 16:38:07
Nice Dave, did the towels come free?
Post 617842 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-06-18 17:58:52
No - I had to marry the girl who owned them.
Post 617858 by M-R-P on 2013-06-18 18:53:47
Bummer ;)
That's how I got a leather sofa.
Post 617884 by stribo on 2013-06-18 19:36:33
[QUOTE=M-R-P;617858]Bummer ;)
That's how I got a leather sofa.[/QUOTE]
And a ball and chain. ;)
Post 617890 by T5frankie on 2013-06-18 19:41:12
[QUOTE=stribo;617884]And a ball and chain. ;)[/QUOTE]
and the enormous thumb print on his forehead :crazy:
Post 624290 by Jamest5r on 2013-07-10 18:14:09
Any updates mate? hoping it's good ish :)
Post 624357 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-10 21:03:32
I am a slow mechanic because when I rush things, stuff breaks. I've stripped off the inlet manifold taken most of the pipework off, drained the fluids.
Plugs are giving nothing away - they all looked fine (only 3 days old). I rotated the engine on the crank pulley by hand - couldn't really tell much. All I heard was a slight slurping noise which I can only assume is a lifter?
Inlet valves all move up & down as expected.
I got the turbo off last night & booked it for inspection at Turbo Dynamics - I am pleased that there is no apparent damage but I remain unhappy with the thrust & cyclical play in the main shaft. Perhaps nothing - maybe o
overreacting but with a turbo costing that much seems only sensible. Didn't enjoy the drenching when I took the water return off.
Gonna whip the exhaust manifold off later.
Oh yeah - dropped my long forged hex 14mm socket I need to take the head bolts off - it vanished & I have searched aimlessly for it. Annoying is not the word. It fell down by the auxiliary belt - there's nothing below but can I find the blighter??! Can I vpcuk.
Post 624360 by graemewelch on 2013-07-10 21:07:25
what lifter have you fitted. are they solid or hydralic
Post 624370 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-10 21:12:48
TBH I am not certain - they were what ever was in the donor s60 engine - head was completely overhauled.
Think I may yet put the fuel pump fuse & turn it over on the starter to see if I can work it out before stripping it out further.
Post 624383 by graemewelch on 2013-07-10 21:33:12
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;624370]TBH I am not certain - they were what ever was in the donor s60 engine - head was completely overhauled.
Think I may yet put the fuel pump fuse & turn it over on the starter to see if I can work it out before stripping it out further.[/QUOTE]
thats what id do if was you. i read somewear that certain lifter were prone to failure. not sure which one though. any sign of scoring on your cam shafts. hope its nothing major
Post 624462 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-10 23:50:53
Bearing in mind there's no oil in the engine other than what's normally left behind after a drain down - this is what I hear...
[video=youtube;ldMr5-sV5NY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldMr5-sV5NY[/video]
It's quite noisy so I will run a compression test tomorrow & then at least I can discount the dropped valve theory for good.
Post 624555 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-11 14:01:02
Hmm still not 100% sure.
2 compression tests per cylinder (values in bar). Cylinder 1 to me has always been the one closest to the cambelt
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21885[/ATTACH]
Cylinder 1 is a little down relative to 3, 4 & 5
Most unhappy with 2
I don't think I have a dropped valve because if I did - I'd have no compression at right?
Post 624614 by graemewelch on 2013-07-11 20:05:55
just listened to the video. dosnt sound healthy at all. dont no what to make of the compression test. have you had the rocker cover off to see what the cams are like. anything loose or broke around that area.
Post 624620 by Jamest5r on 2013-07-11 20:14:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;624555]Hmm still not 100% sure.
2 compression tests per cylinder (values in bar). Cylinder 1 to me has always been the one closest to the cambelt
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21885[/ATTACH]
Cylinder 1 is a little down relative to 3, 4 & 5
Most unhappy with 2
I don't think I have a dropped valve because if I did - I'd have no compression at right?[/QUOTE]
To be honest mate im going with Smithy's theory of a small piece chipped off a valve, ask Pete he had exactly the same happen might have some figures or thoughts for you.
Post 624621 by t5 pete on 2013-07-11 20:15:37
With the plugs removed have you had a look at the top of the pistons it sounds like some things hitting have a look with a torch to see for marks etc
Post 624623 by Harvey on 2013-07-11 20:19:12
Have you tried all the cylinders at TDC or just on there way back down,to see if there is any play in the rod bearings by pushing the piston down one at a time,as this would lower the compression as well.
Post 624624 by t5 pete on 2013-07-11 20:20:14
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;624620]To be honest mate im going with Smithy's theory of a small piece chipped off a valve, ask Pete he had exactly the same happen might have some figures or thoughts for you.[/QUOTE]
Sorry dude but gunner have to shoot you down lol deff not a burnt or broken valve as it would only be running on 4 clyinders and the clyinder with burt or broken valve would not have any compresion by the sounds of it the noise it set in time so must be with rotation my geuss either piston related or depending on where the knocking is coming from it could be crank sliped bearing etc after inspecting the piston through plug hole if nothing is found use a long screw driver with solid handle to see if the knocking is coming from lower down.
Post 624626 by Jamest5r on 2013-07-11 20:23:28
[QUOTE=t5 pete;624624]Sorry dude but gunner have to shoot you down lol deff not a burnt or broken valve as it would only be running on 4 clyinders and the clyinder with burt or broken valve would not have any compresion by the sounds of it the noise it set in time so must be with rotation my geuss either piston related or depending on where the knocking is coming from it could be crank sliped bearing etc after inspecting the piston through plug hole if nothing is found use a long screw driver with solid handle to see if the knocking is coming from lower down.[/QUOTE]
That's exactly why i said ask you lol :) i have no idea it's beyond my knowledge of engine's just knew you had something similar to Smithy's theory happen.
Post 624628 by Harvey on 2013-07-11 20:34:24
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;624555]Hmm still not 100% sure.
2 compression tests per cylinder (values in bar). Cylinder 1 to me has always been the one closest to the cambelt
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21885[/ATTACH]
Cylinder 1 is a little down relative to 3, 4 & 5
Most unhappy with 2
I don't think I have a dropped valve because if I did - I'd have no compression at right?[/QUOTE]
I did get this a week or to ago,I can post it to you if you think it would be any help. It does have a mirror that can be fitted in the end to look back on its self.
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?51347-Called-in-to-Aldi-and-got-this-bargin
Post 624668 by jardon on 2013-07-11 23:22:26
[QUOTE=Harvey;624628]I did get this a week or to ago,I can post it to you if you think it would be any help. It does have a mirror that can be fitted in the end to look back on its self.
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?51347-Called-in-to-Aldi-and-got-this-bargin[/QUOTE]
I've seen Tim use one of those when visibility is poor - very useful. No idea on the engine unfortunately.
Post 624676 by smithy on 2013-07-12 00:11:19
The only way to find out what is wrong with the engine is take the head off .then you can see if it is a valve issue or a spun bearing etc .we will find out the weekend when the engine is dismantled and is investigated more clearly .just hoping its nothing serous than the ideas that peeps have come up with .
Post 624679 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-12 01:08:35
Thanks for your feedback all & thanks for the offer of tools to look inside.
I've ordered the locking tools from the bay of e & will hope to have a proper diagnosis soon.
Post 624689 by Biff on 2013-07-12 04:05:36
Good luck Dave, must be gutting having this after so much money & time invested.
Hope the old girl comes back to terrorise again.
Post 624702 by lance on 2013-07-12 08:51:17
Good luck WD
Post 624705 by claymore on 2013-07-12 08:58:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;624679]Thanks for your feedback all & thanks for the offer of tools to look inside.
I've ordered the locking tools from the bay of e & will hope to have a proper diagnosis soon.[/QUOTE]
§§§§, I've got the locking tool set here, sorry mate I should have offered it .
Post 624706 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-12 09:11:33
Can I borrow it anyway, as my set is unlikely to turn up before Smithy does? Are you in this evening?
Post 624707 by claymore on 2013-07-12 09:38:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;624706]Can I borrow it anyway, as my set is unlikely to turn up before Smithy does? Are you in this evening?[/QUOTE]
I should be home after 7pm
Post 624710 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-12 09:51:22
Could you possibly buzz me your postcode & house number again?
Post 624978 by graemewelch on 2013-07-13 12:49:54
thats not good but i dont think its out enough to bend a valvo. if was bent i think compression would be a lot lower. id reset cam belt and vvc and do another compression test. i wouldnt be very impressed with the company who done engine build. are all the cam pullets tight. is it possible that the vvc has slippef
Post 624979 by graemewelch on 2013-07-13 12:53:19
just re read it. thats not good that vvc slipped. but im 99% sure thats not enough to bend valve. i hope im right.
Post 624980 by t5 pete on 2013-07-13 12:54:11
Thought the knocking sounded in time with the firing of the engine as graham has said re time and do a compression test also listen to how it sounds, tbh with the power of the engine I would like to strip it and have a good inspection its obviously been hitting so most likely will have bent a little
Post 624984 by graemewelch on 2013-07-13 13:10:33
just a off chance but could the knocking not be the vvc banging about. i agree with pete though. id def be stripping it but id asking the question of the company who reconditioned the head.
Post 624987 by graemewelch on 2013-07-13 13:17:50
can you get a asstant to crank the engine while you use a metal bar as a stephascope to try and pin point the noise just incase you can see anything once head is off. more clues you have to start with the easier itll be if its not so obvious.
Post 624989 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-13 13:23:50
The VVT pulley sits on the end of the cam - there is no key. It works via oil pressure - sorta like a cam within cam. If the cam has slipped relative to the pulley that much then it is entirely possible that the piston has tapped a valve out of alignment. I am wondering whether to attempt to re-time it before taking the head off? Got to be at least 1 tooth off ATM on the exhaust cam.
Post 624997 by graemewelch on 2013-07-13 13:50:54
1 tooth wont bend a valve. even though its hydraulic the bolts must be loose enough for it to move. it cant .do anyharm to take belt off reset timing. will the vvc need retensioning the same was as the 2.4's do. if in doubt whip plugs out and turn by hand. what ever you do though dave keep.your chin up and keep your cool. i feel frustrated for. if i was closer id hope along and lend a hand
Post 625250 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-14 01:27:56
3 times I have tried to time up that bloody exhaust cam, put the reference tool on the back of the cams, locked it against the crank locker - popped the cambelt off - turned the pulley on the cap fully clockwise & popped the belt back on - tensioned it up.
Each time - I rotated the engine by hand, clockwise, and each time the final position on the back of the cam is wrong - similar to the shot above, with the exhaust cam off by 5 - 10 degrees to the horizontal - meaning I can't put the cam lockers back in
Baffled.
Post 625254 by M-R-P on 2013-07-14 04:25:35
Stretched belt?
Post 625256 by graemewelch on 2013-07-14 06:40:12
befor fitting the belt. fully rotate the vvc dor then fit gelt. rotate engine two full turns. then nip up the three bolts. hope that works for you
Post 625258 by graemewelch on 2013-07-14 07:10:55
Set the crank correctly (not TDC) lock both cams on number 5 cylinder end and turn the exh pulley all the way D.O.R. then refit the the belt. once tensioned tighten the 3 8mm bolts in each pulley if you get my drift.
hope that makes more sense dave. best of luck with it today
Post 625263 by stribo on 2013-07-14 07:36:03
I remember when we had the VVT unit changed on the R, our mechanic had a nightmare timing it up, and he's ex Volvo.
Post 625433 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-14 17:22:05
Well I deliberately have done FA with the car today. Smithy reckons I need a new VVT pulley - so I will probably order one tomorrow.
Post 625444 by smithy on 2013-07-14 17:52:08
It's only a thought because they have been known
To go and that would also explain
The cam timing being out.
Post 625455 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-14 18:11:06
My only other thought is that the centre nut is loose?
Post 625476 by Harvey on 2013-07-14 18:54:48
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;625455]My only other thought is that the centre nut is loose?[/QUOTE]
Has yours still got the Torx drive cap fitted if so just remove it to get to the nut,I can email you the dealers guide of how to set it up if that woulD help you. It does sound long winded way but thats what they say.
Post 625498 by jardon on 2013-07-14 19:22:14
My VVT was out but it didn't take Tim long to resolve the problem. Quite a few get incorrectly set up and I'm not even sure that all main dealers can get it right. Symptoms can be subtle but erratic idle and driveability issues are common - sometimes not diagnosed as the ECU allows a wide range of adaptation in VVT operation and symptoms can consequently be intermittent with misleading codes. I'm not sure how reliable the units are but just be sure it was set up correctly before buying a new one - a quick Googling suggests that they are north of £100. I'm not knocking your skills in aligning it just letting you know people §§§§ the process up reasonably frequently!
Post 625501 by T5frankie on 2013-07-14 19:27:35
[QUOTE=jardon;625498]My VVT was out but it didn't take Tim long to resolve the problem. Quite a few get incorrectly set up and I'm not even sure that all main dealers can get it right. Symptoms can be subtle but erratic idle and driveability issues are common - sometimes not diagnosed as the ECU allows a wide range of adaptation in VVT operation and symptoms can consequently be intermittent with misleading codes. I'm not sure how reliable the units are but just be sure it was set up correctly before buying a new one - a quick Googling suggests that they are north of £100. I'm not knocking your skills in aligning it just letting you know people §§§§ the process up reasonably frequently![/QUOTE]
your idle was very erratic Dave
Post 625508 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-14 19:58:08
[QUOTE=Harvey;625476]Has yours still got the Torx drive cap fitted if so just remove it to get to the nut,I can email you the dealers guide of how to set it up if that woulD help you. It does sound long winded way but thats what they say.[/QUOTE]
Torx T55 holds the cap in place. thanks for the offer of help - all information would be gratefully received.
Post 625512 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-14 20:07:06
Too §§§§ed off with it to even bother lifting the bonnet today.
Post 625863 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-15 23:22:20
Well a new day dawned & it's still nice outside. Finally figured out what I was doing wrong. By winding anti-clockwise against the crank locker - this was allowing the exhaust cam to wind backwards against the VVT - thus making it look like the cams are not aligned. I am satisfied that the timing is good for now. Good enough to try the compression test again.
So I have tensioned the belt again & reinstated the starter. Bad news is the battery is too flat to retest the compression. Wife is stealing the diesel to go to see her parents & I don't have a battery charger - so I'll have to get on my bike and go down to Halfords.
Either way I think I will still replace at least the bolt holding the VVT pulley on if not the pulley itself. TBH I don't really know how to tell if the VVT pulley is faulty or not - just that I'd feel happier replacing it.
Post 625866 by Harvey on 2013-07-15 23:31:11
Let's hope that was all that was wrong.
Post 625873 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-15 23:42:22
[QUOTE=Harvey;625866]Let's hope that was all that was wrong.[/QUOTE]
Major big thanks for sending me the instructions
Post 625883 by graemewelch on 2013-07-16 06:30:47
fingers crossed for you. im fairly confident that this is the problem and you wont need to remove the head. will you still be sending the turbo off to be checked over
Post 625914 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-16 11:11:42
turbo came off last week & went to Turbo Dynamics - intial feedback, when I spoke to Tom @ T/D yesterday is that bearing feels ok to him - but they are going to strip it down to the CHRA, put some oil pressure through it & spin it up on their balancer any way just to be sure.
I have essentially stripped the top half of the engine back to just the bear head. All that remains on it are the cams, belt, rocker cover. I too am praying that against the odds I have gotten away with it.
Battery last night was only just strong enough to lock the car. So I unlocked it, left the bonnet on just the safety catch & pushed the tabs down by hand.
Post 626061 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-16 21:22:54
Bad news I'm afraid. Battery is charged
1 came up to 12 bar. 2 is still down at 10 bar - rest are as they were - 12 bar.
Guess I have no choice now but to take the head off. Bummer.
Post 626064 by stribo on 2013-07-16 21:27:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626061]Bad news I'm afraid. Battery is charged
1 came up to 12 bar. 2 is still down at 10 bar - rest are as they were - 12 bar.
Guess I have no choice now but to take the head off. Bummer.[/QUOTE]
That doesn't sound good mate, lets hope it hasn't damaged a piston as well.
Post 626117 by graemewelch on 2013-07-17 01:00:54
as above hope theres no serious damage and its a false alarmmight be worth droping a bit oil.in cylinder no 2"and doing another test just incase ifs dry. ill keep my fingers crossed for you
Post 626118 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-17 01:06:40
Can I do a compression test now that the rocket cover & the cams are out? Probably not.
Well there are no marks on the cam lobes - and the tops of the lifters (silly name really - surely "pusher downerers" is better LOL) look fine.
Nope tomorrow the head is coming off. Then I might know something - or I might stand there scratching various body parts (not uncommon for me - LOL).
Post 626124 by Biff on 2013-07-17 01:18:47
Keeping everything crossed for you WD. Be a shame for it to dent your wallet after building such a bang on engine. Like your term for lifters too.
Ps that picture of it on 19's you posted is possibly the nicest c70 I've seen. You need those wheels back in your life even if it does look a right sleeper on the comets.
Post 626130 by graemewelch on 2013-07-17 01:27:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626118]Can I do a compression test now that the rocket cover & the cams are out? Probably not.
Well there are no marks on the cam lobes - and the tops of the lifters (silly name really - surely "pusher downerers" is better LOL) look fine.
Nope tomorrow the head is coming off. Then I might know something - or I might stand there scratching various body parts (not uncommon for me - LOL).[/QUOTE]
cant see why not. all the valves will be shut. just take plugs out of pot thats not getting tested
Post 626132 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-17 01:31:58
Tell that to the thieves that half-inched them.They were imported from the US & cost a lot of dosh. Company that sold them to me no longer exists.
I am thinking I will do some extra bits on the pieces I have off. Improve the head a bit more.
Polish the exhaust manifold & get it coated. Get the DP coated too.
Not looking fwd to finding that my cylinders are goosed or something else even worse.
Post 626135 by graemewelch on 2013-07-17 01:41:19
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626132]Tell that to the thieves that half-inched them.They were imported from the US & cost a lot of dosh. Company that sold them to me no longer exists.
I am thinking I will do some extra bits on the pieces I have off. Improve the head a bit more.
Polish the exhaust manifold & get it coated. Get the DP coated too.
Not looking fwd to finding that my cylinders are goosed or something else even worse.[/QUOTE]
§§§§§§§s!!!
ceramic coating isnt cheap. i dont see the point init. not if already using stainless parts. have you considered a bigger inlet plenum. sumit like smithys. think its his.
Post 626181 by V70 Graham on 2013-07-17 10:20:16
Hopefully some good news coming your way, I have my fingers crossed mate.
Post 626302 by EddyP on 2013-07-17 18:15:02
You could do a leak down test, make an adapter up to screw into a spark plug hole and connect to an airline, then blow some air in slowly and see if you can hear where it's leaking, I did this with mine and could noticeably hear it down the dipstick tube, so I knew it was a bottom end issue rather than valve gear issue.
Post 626309 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-17 18:49:18
Sadly I don't own a compressor & to keep costs down I am doing all the work on the driveway
Post 626311 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-17 18:52:54
Dave
when you did the engine rebuild did you shim the block??
Post 626315 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-17 18:55:31
nope - why do you think I cracked a liner?
Post 626317 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-17 19:05:33
not at all mate was just asking as i know Tim Williams does it as a matter of course on all high performance engine builds. was also thinking as your taking the head off maybe worth getting it done for piece of mind.
just a thought mate, i know its extra expence
Post 626318 by claymore on 2013-07-17 19:13:05
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;626317]not at all mate was just asking as i know Tim Williams does it as a matter of course on all high performance engine builds. was also thinking as your taking the head off maybe worth getting it done for piece of mind.
just a thought mate, i know its extra expence[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't cost anything to do it, it only takes 10 minutes, and I could do it, but Daves is a 2.3 isn't it, so doesn't need doing.
Post 626323 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-17 19:21:04
[QUOTE=claymore;626318]Wouldn't cost anything to do it, it only takes 10 minutes, and I could do it, but Daves is a 2.3 isn't it, so doesn't need doing.[/QUOTE]
yes i know Daves is a 2.3, but this doesnt stop the liners moving at high rpm/boost, so therefore i would have thought it was still a possibility
Post 626326 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-17 19:30:37
Still working database performance issues for Shell Treasury - engine performance issues may not get seen to yet - or even this evening :cry:
Post 626328 by V70 Graham on 2013-07-17 19:43:22
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626326]Still working database performance issues for Shell Treasury - engine performance issues may not get seen to yet - or even this evening :cry:[/QUOTE]
You really must get your priorities right Dave lol
Post 626386 by graemewelch on 2013-07-17 21:47:32
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;626328]You really must get your priorities right Dave lol[/QUOTE]
im with graeme on this one
Post 626466 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 01:20:39
Well good news is I got all the head bolts out this time without rounding any heads.
and the bad news....
[video=youtube_share;8bUubfi9r-w]http://youtu.be/8bUubfi9r-w[/video]
The valves look fine - but I'll send the head off to be checked anyway.
Bore shots of number 2 all look good. No chips, cracks or scoring.
I have no idea how the 4mm play in the stroke of number 2 has come about. Is this engine even salvageable?
I think I can remove the sump without dropping the subframe
In hindsight could I have resolved the issue without taking the head off? It's done now & yes I feel thoroughly deflated. If there was one thing I thought was going to hold together I would have sworn it would've been the bottom end.
Spun bearing?
Time to sit down & have a real hard think of where I want to go with this.
Post 626468 by smithy on 2013-07-18 01:28:09
Need to check if you have spun a shell by taking the sump off mate or the cap has come loose some how .
Post 626469 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 01:38:09
I have this dreadful sinking feeling that it is all my own fault. Oil filler cap seal was poor allowing some oil to escape across the top engine cover. I noticed the oil warning light come on out of the corner of my eye when I was going round corners. I hadn't check the oil level for a while - and it wasn't even showing on the dipstick. As soon as I noticed I topped it up. Perhaps the damage was already started? I put a complete oil change in before Santa Pod.
If this is a spun bearing then I am not sure if the engine is saveable?
Post 626470 by smithy on 2013-07-18 01:42:29
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626469]I have this dreadful sinking feeling that it is all my own fault. Oil filler cap seal was poor allowing some oil to escape across the top engine cover. I noticed the oil warning light come on out of the corner of my eye when I was going round corners. I hadn't check the oil level for a while - and it wasn't even showing on the dipstick. As soon as I noticed I topped it up. Perhaps the damage was already started? I put a complete oil change in before Santa Pod.
If this is a spun bearing then I am not sure if the engine is saveable?[/QUOTE]
Best not get ahead of yourself mate .take the sump off and have alook it could be alot of things .you would not know your piston was like that unless you took the head off so it was not a wasted excercise mate.
Post 626471 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 01:47:15
if its spun a shell youll.be able to get a regrind on that joural. i feel for you dave. this is worst case sernario come true
Post 626472 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 01:55:07
[QUOTE=graemewelch;626471]if its spun a shell youll.be able to get a regrind on that joural. i feel for you dave. this is worst case sernario come true[/QUOTE]
I truly hope it isnt that then.
Post 626473 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 02:12:57
put a spaner on crank pulley and turn the engime so no 2 is tdc then take it a tiny bit past. youll be able to if theres any up and down play. at this point id bempted to drop the lot out and get it on a engine stand. most of all keep your cool with it.
Post 626474 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 02:26:08
ive just watched video again. im 99% youve spun a shell. the tapping noise has been piston slap. ive had this befor on a zetec engine. once you inspect the bearing youll be able to see if was due to lack of oil. its easy fixed though. its time thats the trouble. if your mega lucky theyll be no scoring on crank or conrod and you can fit new bearings with out taking block out. id offer my help but im no use to you in my present condition but will offer my advice wear i can.
Post 626483 by oblark on 2013-07-18 08:03:44
Did I read somewhere that you thought the noise was from the top of the engine ?
The only brg that would allow that much play would be the gudgeon pin brg.
Post 626489 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 09:15:50
Yes I did - AA recovery said dropped valve - so that's where I started - and what's BRG?
Post 626491 by claymore on 2013-07-18 09:23:46
BRG, short for bearing
Post 626503 by t5 pete on 2013-07-18 10:28:45
Sorry to see that Dave ide lean towards the gudgen pin to allow that sort of movement if you take the sump of it will be much better to see and then you will be able to remove the rod and piston aswell
Post 626504 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 10:40:19
but the gudgeon pin is pressed in. i dont see how it could have that much play. surley it would drop out. i tbink theres a flat spot on shells causeing this. have the piston and valve kissed at all
Post 626507 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 10:51:01
The pin on those wiseco pistons is inserted & held in place with a sirclip. Spoke to motorcast (the peeps that helped me build it) and they will collect the head & test it. They also suggested I take all 5 pistons out - so we can inspect them all.
Post 626508 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 11:07:34
that makes sense are you going to rebuild your self or get the same company to do it
Post 626509 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 11:10:31
Depends what is wrong & more importantly why it went wrong. I think there will be a bit of both this time.
Post 626539 by smithy on 2013-07-18 15:12:27
Rip the block out mate
Post 626541 by T5frankie on 2013-07-18 15:15:01
i feel for you mate, glad you seem positive, anyone else would have broken it by now lol
Post 626543 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 15:29:07
ATM the head is being collected by motorcast tomorrow. Once the sump is off - not sure if I'll do it today or tomorrow then I will make a firm decision which way to go.
I've never really been a polish it & admire it BKV kinda person. I like to do things properly which is why I am bitterly disappointed with only a 4 month run of this engine.
It feels like the gearbox saga all over again.
Post 626550 by Biff on 2013-07-18 16:16:46
Keep at it Dave, it'll come good. I know many a bloke who's had an engine go & that's not just through abuse or in regard of who built it. This thing will be a monster at its full potential.
Post 626575 by mitchyboy01 on 2013-07-18 18:14:50
Sorry to hear of your troubles Dave. If you have the finances to carry on and fix it I defintely would!
When my RS turbo press fit gudgeon pin came loose it tapped like crazy and wore a huge 1.5mm deep line into the side of the bore!
Post 626583 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-18 19:11:03
least my bores look trouble free.
Post 626603 by graemewelch on 2013-07-18 20:02:00
did you pull the sump off tonight. reading the other topic on your spec im confused. are you running forged low comp pistons with h beam rods.
Post 626629 by oblark on 2013-07-18 20:44:45
[QUOTE=graemewelch;626504]but the gudgeon pin is pressed in. i dont see how it could have that much play. surley it would drop out. i tbink theres a flat spot on shells causeing this. have the piston and valve kissed at all[/QUOTE]
Yeah the gudgeon pins are a push fit and held in place by a snap ring but the brg on the end of the con rod is a bronze brg,
If this brg is aloud to run dry it will wear and cause a rattling noise when the engine is running.
Post 626717 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-19 01:21:39
[QUOTE=graemewelch;626603]did you pull the sump off tonight. reading the other topic on your spec im confused. are you running forged low comp pistons with h beam rods.[/QUOTE]
No - I went down the pub wiv me mates.
the wiseco pistons are forged but not low comp AFAIK. they are 81.5mm
K1 Tech rods were bought from co-ord sport on the recommendation of a certain mr smiffy.
Post 626718 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-19 01:28:50
There is evidence of some piston slap - I looked again at the bottom of the cyl. head on #2 - if you look carefully at the 2 edges of the piston crown & the sides of the valve recess there are matching shiny bits.
My next door neighbour is a mechanic & I showed him - it was something I had not initially spotted.
He is of an opinion that the cap bolts have some how come loose.
Post 626720 by JUDGENINJA on 2013-07-19 01:41:55
Come on Dave... It's only the engine!! A good race engine is rebuilt every year so crack on buddy!!! This is part of the fun..(seemingly)
Post 626722 by smithy on 2013-07-19 04:56:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626717]No - I went down the pub wiv me mates.
the wiseco pistons are forged but not low comp AFAIK. they are 81.5mm
K1 Tech rods were bought from co-ord sport on the recommendation of a certain mr smiffy.[/QUOTE]
Thanks mate blame me lol
Post 626724 by iancho on 2013-07-19 06:16:11
I don't know what to say Dave it appears nothing will go right for you at times after all the effort you have put in... I feel for you and hope that a solution can be found... Gutted to be reading this.
Post 626749 by claymore on 2013-07-19 07:44:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626718]There is evidence of some piston slap - I looked again at the bottom of the cyl. head on #2 - if you look carefully at the 2 edges of the piston crown & the sides of the valve recess there are matching shiny bits.
My next door neighbour is a mechanic & I showed him - it was something I had not initially spotted.
He is of an opinion that the cap bolts have some how come loose.[/QUOTE]
That was my initial thought, I think there's too much movement for a spun bearing.
Post 626954 by V70 Graham on 2013-07-20 04:45:39
Sorry to hear this Dave, was hoping for a better outcome for you.
Glad you are continuing with the project though, like I said earlier this is a 'one of a kind' build and when you have it finished 'Betsy' will be one hell of a quick motor.
Post 626956 by dtp on 2013-07-20 06:30:13
Not good news Dave. Did you use a new Volvo oil pump as a few have had issues with them on their rebuilds.
I think it's time to source a low mileage 2.4 T5 engine and start from there. (Use the original oil pump with the new engine)
Post 626962 by stribo on 2013-07-20 07:40:34
Gutted for you Dave. After all the time, effort and money you've put into this, for that to happen is a right kick in the made. You have far more patience than me, I think if I was in the same position I'd have taken a match to it by now.
Post 626969 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 09:17:24
dave im realy gutted for you. i wanted to be wrong about the the shells. previous experience had me almost sure it was what you found. is the crank realy bad. it get it checked out. you may get away with a regrind and oversized shells. i dont think youve done anything wrong on the build. youve just been very unlucky. i didnt see any corners being cut. keep your chin up dave and if i can help with out let me know.
Post 626971 by WOODY T5 on 2013-07-20 09:20:48
Gutted for u Dave after all that hard work but stick with it son will come very good after the rebuild
Post 626992 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 10:37:22
I have another crank in my old engine - so that's one option. I have no idea why this shell self-destructed - other than some low oil condition existed and how that occured is a mystery.
The crank didn't look bad (but I don't know what a bad crank looks like) but it would need measuring.
Little end bearings all feel fine.
the oil pump was new AFAIK.
I think I will be installing oil temp & pressure sensors - so that something like this cannot happen again - or if it does I can catch it before anything bad happens.
Post 626994 by Yosser on 2013-07-20 10:43:51
Curiously enough dooby's car seized on no.2 when it failed, is there a reason why no.2 would go first?
Post 626995 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 10:49:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;626992]I have another crank in my old engine - so that's one option. I have no idea why this shell self-destructed - other than some low oil condition existed and how that occured is a mystery.
The crank didn't look bad (but I don't know what a bad crank looks like) but it would need measuring.
Little end bearings all feel fine.
the oil pump was new AFAIK.
I think I will be installing oil temp & pressure sensors - so that something like this cannot happen again - or if it does I can catch it before anything bad happens.[/QUOTE]
wise move with gauges. heres a pic of a bad crank from megane dci i rebuilt earlier this year
Post 627036 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 15:17:12
Comparing just 2 of the lowest journals (I couldn't be bothered to get my tools out just to take the photos)
Journal 5...
vs
Journal 2...
Whaddaya think?
To me there seems some of the edge missing but I can't really tell - they just look different.
Post 627040 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 15:36:57
youll get away with a polish on that dave. at most youll need a new conrod. youve been very lucky. that could of wiped the crank out. conrod might even be ok. any close up pics
Post 627041 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 15:56:21
Can that happen in-situ or does the crank still have to come out?
Post 627047 by t5 pete on 2013-07-20 16:10:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627041]Can that happen in-situ or does the crank still have to come out?[/QUOTE]
Really bad news dave I really do feel for you as for the polish of the crank it will need to be removed and sent to a machine shop for a polish or re gring then polish
Post 627049 by Biff on 2013-07-20 16:28:30
That looks alright to me Dave, I'd expect a lot more signs of massive heat like in Graeme's picture for it to of bent or warped.
Bad luck mate but it could've been a lot worse. A polish wont cost you a fortune. Just the labour involved removing it really.
Post 627050 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 16:31:08
But given I have a spare crank - which would be the best to use?
Post 627051 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-20 16:32:29
i would put money on it being the oil pump at fault here, there have been several cases of this on new engine builds, Dave speak to Tim Williams he has a solution to the new oil pump problem.
Post 627055 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 16:41:30
what fault is that?
Post 627056 by T5frankie on 2013-07-20 16:45:04
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;627051]i would put money on it being the oil pump at fault here, there have been several cases of this on new engine builds, Dave speak to Tim Williams he has a solution to the new oil pump problem.[/QUOTE]
simon do you mention Tim williams in every post? lol
Post 627057 by t5 pete on 2013-07-20 16:45:05
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;627051]i would put money on it being the oil pump at fault here, there have been several cases of this on new engine builds, Dave speak to Tim Williams he has a solution to the new oil pump problem.[/QUOTE]
I was quite concerned about that also it seem doubling the pick up seal is a good idea which is what I did with myne I also put the original oil pump back in and didnt bother with a new one after all the problems as they seem to be cheeply made
Post 627058 by t5 pete on 2013-07-20 16:46:20
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627055]what fault is that?[/QUOTE]
What fault is what
Post 627059 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-20 16:46:21
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627055]what fault is that?[/QUOTE]
im not 100% sure but i know its a problem with oil pressure when using the power. im pretty sure Alan (barnsley bll) had a simalar problem on his engine build.
best off speaking to Tim as he knows the problem and how to resolve it
Post 627060 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 16:47:38
get both checked dave. if you can afford to take this opertunity to get the crank smf clutch lightened and balanced. if its oil pump failure who supplied the pump. if the engine builder they havnt got a leg to stand on just like me
Post 627061 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-20 16:47:39
[QUOTE=T5frankie;627056]simon do you mention Tim williams in every post? lol[/QUOTE]
only when relevent mate lol
Post 627064 by T5frankie on 2013-07-20 16:50:09
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;627061]only when relevent mate lol[/QUOTE]
yeah on t5d5 maybe
Post 627066 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-20 16:56:41
[QUOTE=T5frankie;627064]yeah on t5d5 maybe[/QUOTE]
he knows more than most about these engines and associated problems, i have used his services and seen some of the cars he has built, very talented bloke
Post 627067 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 16:58:49
the oil pump came as part of the engine - it was supposedly new & it looked new at the time.
Perhaps a lighter crank would be suitable.
Post 627068 by T5frankie on 2013-07-20 17:00:20
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;627066]he knows more than most about these engines and associated problems, i have used his services and seen some of the cars he has built, very talented bloke[/QUOTE]
not doubting his abilities, he wouldnt do mine, too noisy lol
Post 627070 by claymore on 2013-07-20 17:18:57
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627067]the oil pump came as part of the engine - it was supposedly new & it looked new at the time.
Perhaps a lighter crank would be suitable.[/QUOTE]
If it was a new pump, I would be very concerned, there is definitely an issue with the new Volvo pumps. Have a chat with Tim.
Post 627071 by smithy on 2013-07-20 17:19:37
I never had these problems with the v70 2.5t .i would use your spare crank and get the engine sorted with the oil pump in the other engine if its a good one .
Post 627073 by p fandango on 2013-07-20 17:23:46
[QUOTE=T5frankie;627056]simon do you mention Tim williams in every post? lol[/QUOTE]
Post 627075 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 17:29:37
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627067]the oil pump came as part of the engine - it was supposedly new & it looked new at the time.
Perhaps a lighter crank would be suitable.[/QUOTE]
so if its oil pump failure wouldnt that make them liable. saying that if oil pump failed youd think the top end would go first
Post 627076 by V70 Graham on 2013-07-20 17:29:39
[QUOTE=T5frankie;627056]simon do you mention Tim williams in every post? lol[/QUOTE]
He has to, it's in his (10%) contract lol
Post 627083 by smithy on 2013-07-20 17:46:46
[QUOTE=graemewelch;627075]so if its oil pump failure wouldnt that make them liable. saying that if oil pump failed youd think the top end would go first[/QUOTE]
If the pump failed then yes the top end would rattle its tits off.but I have never heard of a Volvo pump failing to be honest .but if peeps are saying the new pumps are rubbish then I would put the pump out of the engine .but check it for play first of course .once this engine has been built the last thing dave needs is a inferior pump in there.
Post 627088 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-20 18:04:51
[QUOTE=graemewelch;627075]so if its oil pump failure wouldnt that make them liable. saying that if oil pump failed youd think the top end would go first[/QUOTE]
Perhaps I wasn't clear - the donor engine came off ebay - sold as it was with new cam belt & new oil pump.
Motorcast in Wem used that engine as the starting point - it was completely reworked from top to bottom.
The oil pump was part of the original package I gave to Motorcast.
Post 627090 by T5frankie on 2013-07-20 18:09:43
all this seriously puts me off tuning mine any further
Post 627092 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 18:14:12
[QUOTE=smithy;627083]If the pump failed then yes the top end would rattle its tits off.but I have never heard of a Volvo pump failing to be honest .but if peeps are saying the new pumps are rubbish then I would put the pump out of the engine .but check it for play first of course .once this engine has been built the last thing dave needs is a inferior pump in there.[/QUOTE]
im wary of hearsay on forum. best taking some things with a pinch of salt. a lot of coments get made on forums by people who have no knolodge or experience with cars then then they read a few threads and then try to offer advise on what theyve read. ill only offer advise on something i have first hand experience of.
Post 627094 by graemewelch on 2013-07-20 18:16:38
[QUOTE=T5frankie;627090]all this seriously puts me off tuning mine any further[/QUOTE]
even if daves car was standard the same thing would of happened. wear as no affence you destroy cause your a boost junky. thats meant in the nicest possible way.
Post 627095 by deathrider311271 on 2013-07-20 18:18:58
[QUOTE=graemewelch;627092]im wary of hearsay on forum. best taking some things with a pinch of salt. a lot of coments get made on forums by people who have no knolodge or experience with cars then then they read a few threads and then try to offer advise on what theyve read. ill only offer advise on something i have first hand experience of.[/QUOTE]
Thats why i said to Dave too speak to the man that knows about these things, as far as i can see its 1 of 2 things oil starvation causing excess heat in the shell or simply a bad cast shell.
Post 627097 by smithy on 2013-07-20 18:22:02
[QUOTE=graemewelch;627092]im wary of hearsay on forum. best taking some things with a pinch of salt. a lot of coments get made on forums by people who have no knolodge or experience with cars then then they read a few threads and then try to offer advise on what theyve read. ill only offer advise on something i have first hand experience of.[/QUOTE]
As I have said before mate check the pump first .whatever happens everything has to be checked and double checked to make sure things are 100 percent before this car goes back in the road.whatever parts are used check for any wear .the old engine was a good engine so I would use the crank etc from that block and use the top block off the new one .
Post 627102 by T5frankie on 2013-07-20 18:37:39
isnt this why blackbeast broke his motor? oil pump problems?
Post 627105 by smithy on 2013-07-20 18:50:28
I'm still using the original pump in my 940 no wear at all .and very soon starting again
Post 627301 by GregE102 on 2013-07-21 01:44:59
Sorry to see this Dave
But What the guys are saying about the oil pumps looks right to me!
The problem with the new/reworked oil pumps is there are a literally a few screws missing, In mine, a new Pump was used! but it needed said screws replacing and it also needed 2 O rings on the pick up pipe to stop oil passing when it got hot!
I know Some folk here have a T5D5 hate thing going on but times like this everyone should club together to figure out such problems!
Speaking to Tim Williams would be a good start as said if you can get hold of the guy he is a very busy man!
If not try Also Asking BarnsleyBill had an engine failure due to the oil pump, so did Black Beast, but was able to catch it before it failed, Steve's car went on to do Multipul Track days, was nothing short of brilliant and was broken because he wanted to try something different!
Try asking one of them guys?
Hope you put here back on the road
Post 627393 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-21 11:45:02
Given this information I may well be tempted to use the oil pump (used on multiple track days) from my old engine.
I've read T5D5 and there appear to be some contention about materials used in the newer pumps, which struggle when they get proper hot - which it would have done on that day.
Post 627396 by graemewelch on 2013-07-21 11:50:28
is it posible to get a uprated high pressure oil pump.
Post 627560 by EddyP on 2013-07-21 18:46:35
The only way you'd be able to use any sort of uprated oil pump would be to go with a dry sump setup i'd have thought?
If you want a lighter crank go for the later crank, IIRC it's 3.7kg lighter, that's what I swapped to when I rebuilt my engine recently. I also fitted two O rings on the oil pickup tube, off Tim's recommendation, they're a §§§§§§ to fit in, but once they're in it's a good tight fit.
If you want the name of a good crank grinding guy let me know, he's out near Leicester though, works in the same workshop as a balancer, I took all of my engine over there and got everything dynamically balanced before building it. (Bargain price too!)
Post 627564 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-21 18:51:10
Assuming you mean the oil pickup in the middle of the sump right? - the one with the gauze on the inlet?
Post 627579 by t5 pete on 2013-07-21 19:19:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627564]Assuming you mean the oil pickup in the middle of the sump right? - the one with the gauze on the inlet?[/QUOTE]
Yep double ring it
Post 627583 by BlackBeast on 2013-07-21 19:23:29
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627564]Assuming you mean the oil pickup in the middle of the sump right? - the one with the gauze on the inlet?[/QUOTE]
Yep, thats the one Eddy means.
Have a look at the oil pump, any wear on the gears, relief valve or casing throw it in the bin.
Were the rods checked for tolerances before fitting? There have been a few cases where the chinese forged rods are too tight, pinches on the bearing/crank and you can guess the rest.
Post 627584 by BlackBeast on 2013-07-21 19:25:23
Guess which one is worn :D
Post 627600 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-21 20:01:37
Definitely going to push for a greater attention to detail. I did not oversee the build to that level. But for sure I am upping the ante this time.
Post 627609 by stribo on 2013-07-21 20:19:10
TBF mate if you thought it was a new oil pump, then why would you expect it to fail?
Post 627611 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-21 20:32:55
But what I am reading is that the new pumps are not that good - but you're right it was the last thing on my mind.
Post 627614 by BlackBeast on 2013-07-21 20:41:18
[QUOTE=stribo;627609]TBF mate if you thought it was a new oil pump, then why would you expect it to fail?[/QUOTE]
Because Volvo have let their standards slip. They supply new oil pumps when they are actually remanufactured, they should have 2 bolts holding the 2 cases together, however they only have the one bolt from 'new' and the pressure relief valve is made out of plastic rather than metal.
Post 627616 by stribo on 2013-07-21 20:47:04
[QUOTE=BlackBeast;627614]Because Volvo have let their standards slip. They supply new oil pumps when they are actually remanufactured, they should have 2 bolts holding the 2 cases together, however they only have the one bolt from 'new' and the pressure relief valve is made out of plastic rather than metal.[/QUOTE]
I know what you're saying, and obviously that's the case, but when one buys a new pump they expect it to be brand new, and not fail.
Post 627679 by BlackBeast on 2013-07-21 22:05:24
[QUOTE=stribo;627616]I know what you're saying, and obviously that's the case, but when one buys a new pump they expect it to be brand new, and not fail.[/QUOTE]
But they aren't brand new, they take an old one, machine it and sell it as brand new when it is infact remanufactured. Never buy a 'new' Volvo oil pump.
Post 627682 by stribo on 2013-07-21 22:07:50
[QUOTE=BlackBeast;627679]But they aren't brand new, they take an old one, machine it and sell it as brand new when it is infact remanufactured. Never buy a 'new' Volvo oil pump.[/QUOTE]
We know now, it's a kick in the guts to find out the hard way though.
Post 627729 by AndysR on 2013-07-21 23:23:57
I can't believe what I've just read, that's seriously bad luck Dave, I hope you can get it resolved quickly so you can be out in the car again soon :)
1 thing re. the oil supply issue, if that was the failure..I'd have expected the bearing furthest away from the oil pump to breakdown first if it was an oil supply/pressure issue?
Post 627750 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-22 00:51:30
Another few hours spent. Top half of the engine is all cleared away ready for the drop. Tomorrow I'll be working underneath again. It's a PITA from a design perspective that the PAS hard pipe passes right under the block so there's no way to clear it to one side.
One advantage of doing it at home - means I can take my time & not have to worry about being in someone's way.
Post 627769 by iancho on 2013-07-22 08:05:26
Good luck Dave I don't envy you today sounds like a right PITA... Let us all know how its going :smile:
Post 627862 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-22 12:57:43
Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.
Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.
I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.
I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.
The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.
And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.
Post 627895 by T5frankie on 2013-07-22 15:12:40
Have you got to buy pistons and rods again Dave?
Post 627912 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-22 16:08:42
Probably 1 conrod for sure. The other 4 look ok, but visual inspection will only be part of it. I'll be looking to be sure that the balance and setup is spot on.
Turbo at least has the all clear now & will be returning shortly.
I am hoping to re-use the Pistons.
Post 628090 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-23 02:04:55
All but ready to fall out now. Just the crank pulley side mounting bolts x2 to undo then the subframe can come down.
long half shaft is out, bottom ball joints off, rack is unbolted from the subframe, gearbox is drained, short half shaft refuses to come out of the diff (even when I asked nicely) - but it is all separate from the 2 struts.
i wouldn't mind a hand if anyone is willing?
Plan is to suspend the steering rack - what remains of the engine & gearbox - probably remove the exposed oil feed stop it getting damaged.
This is the point where the 2 poster comes into its own. Oh well never mind. Thinking the front bumper may need to come off just to give me extra room.
Only real bless is that as this thing has only recently been bolted together - there is nothing that is rusted solid or being awkward, Even the crank pulley nut came undone without too much fuss - just an almighty craaaaack!!
Post 628425 by GregE102 on 2013-07-24 09:09:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627862]Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.
Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.
I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.
I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.
The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.
And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;627862]Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.
Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.
I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.
I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.
The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.
And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.[/QUOTE]
What ever spec you go for? If I was you building it again I would do every thing to make it safe I think with the power you are running and the size of the Turbo getting the liners shimmed is a must, using your old oil pump is a good Idea, People on here don't like water injection or Methanol but it is actually a coolant so on a hot day it will help a little bit with AIT's, also an additional oil cooler like the ones used on the focus RS and the D5's, yes you will have to fit a different sump but it will massively help oil temps, and Gauges with your mods are a must, oil temp & pressure and AFR, these 3 things will tell you if there is a problem again! For cash reasons I would stick with the same 2.3 block, the option of fitting a 2.4 is there, these are little gems of an engine but then you would have to change other things, standard Volvo cranks are good for more power then you will ever reach! once quoted by RT Mechanics just make sure you get the right bearing shells and bits for it
What ever you decide to do Good luck!
Post 628440 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-24 10:21:11
So well written I've been quoted twice LOL. Thanks for your feedback. Planning to get the subframe, remains of my engine & g/b dropped this evening. Gonna clean up the frame, sand it back & spray paint it.
Post 628504 by smithy on 2013-07-24 13:51:30
[QUOTE=GregE102;628425]What ever spec you go for? If I was you building it again I would do every thing to make it safe I think with the power you are running and the size of the Turbo getting the liners shimmed is a must, using your old oil pump is a good Idea, People on here don't like water injection or Methanol but it is actually a coolant so on a hot day it will help a little bit with AIT's, also an additional oil cooler like the ones used on the focus RS and the D5's, yes you will have to fit a different sump but it will massively help oil temps, and Gauges with your mods are a must, oil temp & pressure and AFR, these 3 things will tell you if there is a problem again! For cash reasons I would stick with the same 2.3 block, the option of fitting a 2.4 is there, these are little gems of an engine but then you would have to change other things, standard Volvo cranks are good for more power then you will ever reach! once quoted by RT Mechanics just make sure you get the right bearing shells and bits for it
What ever you decide to do Good luck![/QUOTE]
The cranks on a whiteblock start the flex after a certain bhp they have found this out in Sweden when pushing mad power out of the whiteblock but we are talking 500 bhp onwards though.the redblock never had the same problem .if peeps can speak Swedish then you find alot of info regarding mods that we don't know over here .like you can buy billy coil overs for a 940 in Sweden but now were else .
Post 628526 by GregE102 on 2013-07-24 16:07:25
Cheers Smithy
Did not know that! I had heard from a fair few people over the years that they where good for 600 ish but did not know of the flexing!
But Not many people in the UK have gone over the 500 mark apart from one that I can think of and its proved nothing but unreliable in that state of tune! Also not being in to building another engine I have forgotten a lot of what I asked the guys with regards to different blocks and stuff!
I would say the most WD could get out of his car BHP wise, if he was to fit ported and flowed head with the bigger valves and the use of water injection kit with methanol would be close to the 500 Bhp give or take 10 Bhp, As Black beast had pretty much full spec apart from Big valve head and WI Methanol which we know to be worth 25-30 Bhp also steve did not have the massive 70mm intercooler as well which is worth more again and what every the big valve head gives? which has got again to be an improvement! Plus WD has the GTX series which is worth a few more horses to!
But to be honest having driven Steve's Car and Tim Williams as well, you had better bring a fresh pair of pants with you when giving them the beans and had a good pot of coffee that morning!
I think to want more than what they have is not necessary!
Cheers Greg
Post 628619 by LiamT4 on 2013-07-24 19:32:35
I'm surprised you don't already have an extra oil cooler dave.
Post 628696 by GregE102 on 2013-07-24 21:12:29
[QUOTE=LiamT4;628619]I'm surprised you don't already have an extra oil cooler dave.[/QUOTE]
If he already has a front mounted oil cooler, knowing that WD dose track days would go for both given that it's an ME7 and it will pull timing with heat anyway!
Post 628787 by dtp on 2013-07-25 04:33:36
I have the D5 water/oil cooler fitted its a direct replacement and twce as big as a T5 cooler. Works well and I don't suffer any loss of oil pressure like you can with an extra external one. Part number 31201912
Post 628808 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-07-25 09:03:11
those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .
then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.
Post 628810 by S70T5Chris on 2013-07-25 09:25:38
[QUOTE=partsforvolvos.com;628808]those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .
then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.[/QUOTE]
That's interesting. Not something I've heard of before. None of the people I know using the D5 oil cooler (and there are a fair few of us now) have had any problems as far as I'm aware.
Post 628811 by dtp on 2013-07-25 09:43:51
[QUOTE=partsforvolvos.com;628808]those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .
then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.[/QUOTE]
That's the first I have heard of it as well. When did you have the returns? I am going to google this to see if anything comes up.
Post 628818 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-07-25 11:20:11
we had a few of them over several years- within and out of warranty.
there was line of though that the sump valve might have been responsible for causing excess pressure and the cooler failing, but as this could not be tested directly the best thing to do was to change the sump as a precaution whenever this happened.
i cant remember a petrol one failing off the top of my head. - is the oil pressure higher in a diesel?
Post 628830 by dtp on 2013-07-25 13:15:21
[QUOTE=partsforvolvos.com;628818]we had a few of them over several years- within and out of warranty.
there was line of though that the sump valve might have been responsible for causing excess pressure and the cooler failing, but as this could not be tested directly the best thing to do was to change the sump as a precaution whenever this happened.
i cant remember a petrol one failing off the top of my head. - is the oil pressure higher in a diesel?[/QUOTE]
I googled D5 oil cooler problems and only came up with three between 2008-2013. All fitted to a D5. I don't know if the oil pressure is higher on a diesel but I would have thought no. I have an S60R with the D5 oil cooler fitted so my sump might be different to a D5 sump. Only time will tell
Post 628836 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-07-25 13:39:49
fingers crossed, it if has already been ok, it will carry on that way.
Post 628840 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-25 14:06:15
What empirical data exists to require additional oil cooling? Or is this just a feeling?
Post 628844 by GregE102 on 2013-07-25 14:17:41
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;628840]What empirical data exists to require additional oil cooling? Or is this just a feeling?[/QUOTE]
I have an additional front mounted oil cooler and have observed high temps on track after multiple laps, I know other's with the D5 cooler who don't even have to think about oil temps! I have to watch them!!
Post 628845 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-25 14:22:45
Outside the operating range for the oil?
Post 628874 by GregE102 on 2013-07-25 16:03:03
On a hot day with prolonged hard use I see my oil warning light flash on my oil temp gauge!
But you have the one attached to the back of the sump which is the one to have! If your not using the D5 one then I would imagine its not a problem for you to fit it!
Cheers Greg
Post 628876 by S70T5Chris on 2013-07-25 16:09:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;628840]What empirical data exists to require additional oil cooling? Or is this just a feeling?[/QUOTE]
The info I went on, is the data logging and testing on track that Ashok and Tim Williams carried out on Ashoks S60R. I can't remember the precise figures, but there was about a 15/20 degree (IIRC) reduction in peak oil temps after fitting the D5 oil cooler. What ever the peak oil temperature was (125ish degrees I think), it wouldn't go any higher, even after half an hour on track.
Post 628878 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-25 16:50:09
Well if a few bods have tried it & it seems to keep things a bit more stable then I feel the risks on not fitting it outweigh the risks of fitting it.
Good news today is the turbo is back with a clean bill of health. Bad news is there may be an issue getting 1 conrod so I may have to fork out for a complete set.
I still have this nagging doubt that early ME7 (just like geartronic) is not the way forward. But alternative manual throttle C70s are all one colour these days (and I know I'll get flamed for saying so) but G/G is just wrong.
Post 628883 by graemewelch on 2013-07-25 17:07:54
will those rods fit a t4. least youll get some of your hard earned back
Post 628896 by stribo on 2013-07-25 17:49:35
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;628878]Well if a few bods have tried it & it seems to keep things a bit more stable then I feel the risks on not fitting it outweigh the risks of fitting it.
Good news today is the turbo is back with a clean bill of health. Bad news is there may be an issue getting 1 conrod so I may have to fork out for a complete set.
I still have this nagging doubt that early ME7 (just like geartronic) is not the way forward.[COLOR="#FF0000"] But alternative manual throttle C70s are all one colour these days (and I know I'll get flamed for saying so) but G/G is just wrong.[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
If you can find a manual pre ME7 C70 T5 in any colour you'll be lucky, and there's nothing wrong with gay gold. :P
Post 628897 by T5frankie on 2013-07-25 17:52:05
i think a new project entirely will get you more motivated dave, join the 850 crew :wave23d:
Post 628902 by dtp on 2013-07-25 18:00:45
I was worried about my S60R 2.5 engine splitting liners so two years ago I obtained a low mileage 2.4T5 engine. Tim Williams built it to my specs at the time. Forged rods using the standard pistons. Ported the head. Shimmed the liners. I also have a FMIC. Farita down pipe with cat back. And progressive water injection. Tim used the original oil pump because of the high failure rate of the new Volvo pumps. I am still running the k24 that has been on he car from day one which has covered 108,000 miles. I have a mte custom map and running 1.5 bar boost. 366.6 bhp which is the maximum that my turbo can put out. I have done about 20,000 miles since this engine was installed. Seven track days and I have had no problems at all with it. What I have posted above is not ment to come across as any type of bragging, it is to inform you how strong and reliable the 2.4 T5 engine is.
You are not many miles away from me so if you want we can meet up and show you
I would suggest that you couldn't go far wrong if you did something similar with yours
Post 628912 by S70T5Chris on 2013-07-25 18:42:17
[QUOTE=dtp;628902]I was worried about my S60R 2.5 engine splitting liners so two years ago I obtained a low mileage 2.4T5 engine. Tim Williams built it to my specs at the time. Forged rods using the standard pistons. Ported the head. Shimmed the liners. I also have a FMIC. Farita down pipe with cat back. And progressive water injection. Tim used the original oil pump because of the high failure rate of the new Volvo pumps. I am still running the k24 that has been on he car from day one which has covered 108,000 miles. I have a mte custom map and running 1.5 bar boost. 366.6 bhp which is the maximum that my turbo can put out. I have done about 20,000 miles since this engine was installed. Seven track days and I have had no problems at all with it. What I have posted above is not ment to come across as any type of bragging, it is to inform you how strong and reliable the 2.4 T5 engine is.
You are not many miles away from me so if you want we can meet up and show you
I would suggest that you couldn't go far wrong if you did something similar with yours[/QUOTE]
Another point to make about Dave's post, is the spec he's running, is the same spec as me(apart from the Owens 19t), Ashok, Gaz, and others. The main point being that it's a tried and tested method, that works consistantely well on the road and track. And for a solid, safe and useable 350+bhp it's perfect.
But I understand that you are going a step beyond that with the GTX30 and aiming for higher power 400+bhp, that opens a whole new can of worms in almost every aspect, as you're aware. But it has been done on several cars on T5D5, even on ME7's. I wish I could be of more use to you Dave, but I just give the car to Tim, and he works his magic, 80% of it goes right over my head! I hope you get everything sorted Dave, and you end up with what you're after. I wouldn't be afraid of joining up on T5D5, the knowledge between a few key guys on there really would be of great help to you I'm sure.
Post 628922 by dtp on 2013-07-25 19:16:34
Hi Cris. I am happy with my car ATM but the next thing for more power is to change the turbo and get it mapped for that. I haven't decided what route I am going for yet. I am watching Dream3r's idea of a 20g. When are you putting yours on a rolling road so I can see the improvement with the Owens 19t hybrid?
Post 628931 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-25 19:32:08
I chose the GTX because it was newer than the GT series and seemed to provide a good bandwidth to play with over what I believed to be better at the time than the 19T.
It doesn't have magic powers, despite what Frankie might believe - and it's been PITA to fit. The GTX does not give me guarenteed HP.
The engine development grew from the mess I got myself in when trying to take of the head of the donor engine.
The cylinder head specialists reworked the head onces they'd got the bolts out, that I rounded. The engine rebuild grew from that.
I probably should have moved to a more specialist firm & spent more time getting the engine just so.
Post 628933 by T5frankie on 2013-07-25 19:35:37
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;628931]I chose the GTX because it was newer than the GT series and seemed to provide a good bandwidth to play with over what I believed to be better at the time than the 19T.
It doesn't have magic powers, despite what Frankie might believe - and it's been PITA to fit. The GTX does not give me guarenteed HP.
The engine development grew from the mess I got myself in when trying to take of the head of the donor engine.
The cylinder head specialists reworked the head onces they'd got the bolts out, that I rounded. The engine rebuild grew from that.
I probably should have moved to a more specialist firm & spent more time getting the engine just so.[/QUOTE]
not surprised given that you were running a 19t map
Post 629155 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 02:11:59
Yeah but the turbo isn't controlled by the map. But regardless - just a quick note to add that I only lost a small amount of skin getting the engine out from under the car. So far I've split the gearbox off, removed pretty much everything (still got the clutch/flywheel to do). I've already ordered the ARD lighter crank pulley & the plasticy inlet manifold spacer from snabb.
I need to retrieve the crank from my old engine & look at both oil pumps - see which is best & then start the deep cleaning process of my block and sump.
I tell you what though - the snap-on gun I bought from ebay - may not undo the very tightest nuts but it does do most & has made things 10 times easier, given I don't have access to air tools this time.
I've bagged & tagged as I've gone along - hopefully I can remember where it all goes. So I am getting there - slowly.
Post 629156 by p fandango on 2013-07-26 03:14:40
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629155]Yeah but the turbo isn't controlled by the map. But regardless - just a quick note to add that I only lost a small amount of skin getting the engine out from under the car. So far I've split the gearbox off, removed pretty much everything (still got the clutch/flywheel to do). I've already ordered the ARD lighter crank pulley & the plasticy inlet manifold spacer from snabb.[/QUOTE]
are you using a TTV flywheel already or standard?
Post 629226 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 10:29:39
I am toying with the idea of the TTV - I am using a Volvo OEM DMF, because I was advised that it would be kinder to the driver train. Could it potentially harm it & does it make it more difficult to idle & does it cause more stalls?
Post 629243 by p fandango on 2013-07-26 12:09:44
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629226]I am toying with the idea of the TTV - I am using a Volvo OEM DMF, because I was advised that it would be kinder to the driver train. Could it potentially harm it & does it make it more difficult to idle & does it cause more stalls?[/QUOTE]
BT's TTV is still sat on the shelve in the garage till i'm ready to swop the gearbox so no direct experience, i do know there are a few people using them now & made a noticable difference to the rpm pick-up. These have been 850's tho so already fitted with a SMF
Post 629245 by M-R-P on 2013-07-26 12:14:14
Graeme is running a TTV iirc.
Post 629262 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 14:27:11
toe-less graeme or captain slow?
Post 629263 by M-R-P on 2013-07-26 14:30:58
Toeless Graeme (not slow Graham)
Post 629268 by graemewelch on 2013-07-26 14:48:17
[QUOTE=M-R-P;629263]Toeless Graeme (not slow Graham)[/QUOTE]
well thats one way to tell us apart. im running a s60r dmf and clutch. it was matt who had the smf. i asked him about it befor i got my clutch and he said if was me hed go dmf. said was rattling on tickover and bite didnt feel the same
Post 629269 by M-R-P on 2013-07-26 15:04:12
Matt - oh yeah, where did he go?
Post 629270 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 15:04:38
I thought it sounded more gansta?
"Why they call him Toeless Graeme?"
"Don't arsk - last man that did - they never found him again"
Post 629271 by graemewelch on 2013-07-26 15:10:19
[QUOTE=M-R-P;629269]Matt - oh yeah, where did he go?[/QUOTE]
he sold his s60 after the ecu failed and bought a civic 2.2 cdti
Post 629272 by M-R-P on 2013-07-26 15:11:28
[QUOTE=graemewelch;629271]he sold his s60 after the ecu failed and bought a civic 2.2 cdti[/QUOTE]
That's right. I loose track sometimes.:uglyhamme
Post 629273 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 15:17:34
does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?
Post 629274 by T5frankie on 2013-07-26 15:19:26
[QUOTE=M-R-P;629272]That's right. I loose track sometimes.:uglyhamme[/QUOTE]
lose..................
Post 629277 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-07-26 15:43:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629273]does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?[/QUOTE]
Ask eddie with the kit car- he seems to speak very highly of it from what i have seen on his thread.
Post 629278 by smithy on 2013-07-26 15:43:51
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629273]does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?[/QUOTE]
My 940 has ttv and had no probs at all .and you can push loads of power though them and they will never break .peeps with skylines and thrown over a 1000 bhp though the ttv flywheel with no probs .
Post 629477 by Tim Williams on 2013-07-26 23:21:12
I've read the last 10 pages of the thread and think that when you ran the car with not enough oil and it leaking was the time you caused the start of all the damage.If the oil pressure light ever comes on with an engine speed of 2000RPM or more you will NEVER get away without any damage. It's quite normal to have the same damage as yours as a result of momentary loss of oil pressure, if the car is then carried on being used. I would in future check you oil level more often and always address oil leaks.
The piston to cylinder head clearance is less than the thickness of the bearings so if the engines are ran once the bearings are so badly worn than a very loud knocking can be heard the piston WILL hit the cylinder head as in your case. From your pics I can clearly see that the piston has contacted the head for quite some time and will of damaged the head to some degree and might of closed up the top piston ring grove so that should be carefully measured. When the head is being repaired make sure that it is very clean and heated up before being welded, I would TIG weld it and not MIG weld it if possible if a skim doesn't get down to the level of the damage. I can get it TIG welded at work if you need?
The crank and affected rod won't be salvageable if there was 4mm of vertical piston movement, I would also replace everything on the lubrication system. It should be fine to flush out the turbo oil feed if done well. I won't speak ill of Turbo Dynamics but I would strongly advise you to be very clear with ALL wording to them and ensure you get replies from them using the terms you used and not "to customers spec". Also it might help if if you see the wording of the invoice before paying them any money.
For rebuilding it I would still advise shimming the block even with 81.5mm bore and as Colin said he can do that easily for you. I have proven air is drawn past the oil pick up pipe with just one O ring so as Eddy pointed out fitting two is a good idea. I would if possible fit an oil pump with a metal relief valve cap not a plastic one. Also if there is not a very good reason genuine gaskets ect would be wise and definitely genuine engine sealant as that affects some engine bearing clearances.
Sorry to see your engine failures, if the post seems blunt it is just because it's intended to help you.
Post 629482 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-26 23:53:19
I appreciate your candor.
Trust me this is an oil pressure lesson hard learnt. All I knew was that I had a small blow by on the oil cap seal - which I did sort out. I am not entirely certain where all the oil went. I'd feel a little incredulous if it all came out of the top. However it happened - something I hope to find out - fact is the shell let go because it got too hot. The shell got too hot because of friction = no oil - end of.
I am banking the double o-ring thing. I am still a little uncertain about the block shim, so if someone could kindly explain what the process is and what risk it mitigates then fine.
Head is still with motorcast so I will ask them to check that. I don't know if the harder material in the wiseco piston will have saved it or even caused more harm.
Post 629484 by Tim Williams on 2013-07-27 00:00:08
Shimming the block mitigates the risk of the liner flexing to the degree that it will crack where the expansion joint is next to the other liner. If it helps plenty of members will have pics of shims in place if that help.
Post 629487 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-27 00:11:05
But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?
Post 629489 by t5 pete on 2013-07-27 00:16:32
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629487]But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?[/QUOTE]
The liners/clyiner walls have casting lines between them ready for shims to fit directly in
Post 629490 by WOODY T5 on 2013-07-27 00:18:39
dave i feel your pain mate but all this to get to where how far do u go?
Post 629496 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-27 00:32:31
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;629490]dave i feel your pain mate but all this to get to where how far do u go?[/QUOTE]
Ah yes the futility of it all.
Post 629511 by jardon on 2013-07-27 01:17:12
I liked my TTV/Kalmar flywheel. More rattle from the transmission at idle and more transmission NVH under load relative to a DMF but otherwise all positive. If increased NVH is not an option then I would stick with the DMF but if Betsy is track/quarter focused then you'll find it freer revving and clutch engagement will be more positive (which I really liked).
Post 629513 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-27 01:33:02
Silly question again - NVH?
Post 629514 by jardon on 2013-07-27 01:36:14
noise vibration and harshness
Post 629536 by claymore on 2013-07-27 09:12:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;629487]But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?[/QUOTE]
Dave, I don't think you understand what shimming involves.
This is before shimming:
This is after:
All you are doing is filling the 10mm deep gap between the cylinder liners.
Post 629915 by MoleT-5R on 2013-07-28 00:18:04
just a bit of suitable shim and some araldite or smiliar... simples
Post 629918 by MoleT-5R on 2013-07-28 00:46:41
just a bit of suitable shim and some araldite or smiliar... simples
Post 629933 by claymore on 2013-07-28 08:42:31
[QUOTE=MoleT5-R;629918]just a bit of suitable shim and some araldite or smiliar... simples[/QUOTE]
Lol, I certainly wouldn't use araldite, no you need to use JB Weld of the right grade that can withstand the heat.
Post 629936 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-28 09:01:57
this one??
Post 629938 by claymore on 2013-07-28 09:07:30
yep, that would do. I've got plenty if and when you need it.
Post 630203 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 00:00:15
Saturday - I picked up my old engine which had been sitting out the back of HLM. I'd already had the sump off it due to a sump plug weep issue.
Had just a few hours spare today so I got both oil pumps off. I had a mare with one of the hex bolts holding the 2 halves together. In the end I had to cut a slot it in with a dremel grinding wheel & use an impact driver & a hammer to get it to budge. Really annoying when you have limited time. Anyway - I got to use the cleaning bath my wife bought me in 2011. Both have the metal caps as previously discussed - so I am not sure which I should use?
I've sort of got to a point where I am unsure how much more to do I need to remove the crank out of my old engine - if I do take the crank out of my dead new engine - what do I look for in the big end shells? Would now be the best time to throw the hole thing to an engineering firm/engine builder - so they can diagnose the faults?
Should I use my big red tank to clean the block up? Any cleaning tips would be appreciated.
Post 630214 by Redbrick on 2013-07-29 00:44:16
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630203]
Would now be the best time to throw the hole thing to an engineering firm/engine builder - so they can diagnose the faults?[/QUOTE]
Yes IMHO. You've probably learnt a lot in the process and I certainly admire your efforts this far. My 850 is sat on the drive way with a blown engine, no way I'm even going to attempt it, but I know a man who is at the top of his game and once I've saved my pennies it will be straight to him on a trailer.
Post 630274 by GregE102 on 2013-07-29 12:09:15
If your old Engine was working fine??? then I would use that! but only if it had no known problems?
My T5 Engine came from an Auto T5 (so not had a hard life) as the other one had a rod go through the block, the serial numbers where taken from the crank to get the correct size shells, there was a 1000th of an inch skimmed of the liners and OS1 pistons fitted, China rods fitted, the head was ported and flowed, even the intake and outtake right through to the zorst, new valves re-ground and fitted, TTV fly wheel fitted VXR injectors and it's been fine ever since! touch wood!
I firmly believe you are throwing money away by keep going to engineering firms asking them to do this and that and commissioning them? As all businesses will take a persons money, You need to find one person not a firm, I am sure there are a few builders on here who could do a build all day long! rather than a Engineering firm or builder or you are going to spend a small fortune again, the recipe for a solid engine build with all sorts of power & turbo's has been posted time and time again over on T5D5 and they are still going strong today!
I think you should have a good read over on T5D5 and ask questions here and there before you part with anymore of your hard earned money and then make a discussion, as no one wants to see thing go wrong for you again Dave!
Cheers Greg
Post 630283 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 12:50:32
The old engine was using water & had shown that the H/G was on it's way (confirmed on a sniffer test). That doesn't matter so much to me.
My RCA is going nowhere - I am no closer to the truth about where the oil went. Turbo has a clean bill of health. The 2 oil pumps look identical & I still don't know if pushing on with ME7 will even work.
Post 630287 by jardon on 2013-07-29 13:00:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630283]The old engine was using water & had shown that the H/G was on it's way (confirmed on a sniffer test). That doesn't matter so much to me.
My RCA is going nowhere - I am no closer to the truth about where the oil went. Turbo has a clean bill of health. The 2 oil pumps look identical & I still don't know if pushing on with ME7 will even work.[/QUOTE]
Sorry, RCA? What are your doubts about ME7?
Post 630291 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 13:17:42
I am under some pressure to get the job finished by her indoors & then not touch it again for a long time. I can't give her any assurances. Perhaps the whole notion of pushing the 2319 this hard is flawed?
Post 630294 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 13:21:30
[QUOTE=jardon;630287]Sorry, RCA? What are your doubts about ME7?[/QUOTE]
Root cause analysis - something I have to deal with a lot in IT problem solving.
Doubts about the ME7 in terms of throttle response. I have to ask it & if the ECU on closed loop says it's not going there it can override me - at least that's what I think it does, which is not condusive to a decent 1/4.
Post 630296 by MoleT-5R on 2013-07-29 13:32:50
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630294]Root cause analysis - something I have to deal with a lot in IT problem solving.
Doubts about the ME7 in terms of throttle response. I have to ask it & if the ECU on closed loop says it's not going there it can override me - at least that's what I think it does, which is not condusive to a decent 1/4.[/QUOTE]
could this problem be programmed around ?, by the right person, obivously above my level at present
Post 630298 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 13:41:57
The whole purpose of the on-demand throttle is to make it smoother because the engine can control the phased cam timing, which if I understand it correctly alters the relative position of the exhaust cam.
Only way to program around it would be to go simpler. Delete the VVT cam & use a vernier pulley (which in itself is a compromise) and return to a manual cable throttle.
Simply means buying 850 which I'm not sure I want or preferably a 1998 C70 which are virtually impossible to find. The auto is not a problem because the gearbox swap would have to happen.
That's a lot of headaches & Wife-based grief just to set a time?
Other option is - I cut my losses now - sell up and move onto something else.
Post 630299 by graemewelch on 2013-07-29 13:55:28
dont quit dave. even if you had to bolt the subframe back on and get itback on its wheels and park up in the corner for a few months. if it was me in your position id be doing on of two things. it either be buying a engine stand and doing the work my self as and when feel like it. or bite the bullet and ask tim willams if hed be willing to rebuild and fit engine. with out doubt hes one of the most trusted people inthe world of volvos and he knolodge and experience will help you like no other can. youve gone to far to quit now.
Post 630302 by V70 Graham on 2013-07-29 14:05:10
I can imagine how you feel Dave, maybe just speak to Tim (and a few others) and pick his brains on which way to head, I'm sure he'd give you 15 mins of his time.
Post 630311 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-07-29 14:18:28
Already have an engine stand, I don't have the precision engineering tools or experience to make this work.
I am more uncertain about the ME7 as a design - just like no-one would run a standard geartronic g/b to go down the drag strip either.
Post 630319 by MoleT-5R on 2013-07-29 14:37:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630298]The whole purpose of the on-demand throttle is to make it smoother because the engine can control the phased cam timing, which if I understand it correctly alters the relative position of the exhaust cam.
Only way to program around it would be to go simpler. Delete the VVT cam & use a vernier pulley (which in itself is a compromise) and return to a manual cable throttle.
Simply means buying 850 which I'm not sure I want or preferably a 1998 C70 which are virtually impossible to find. The auto is not a problem because the gearbox swap would have to happen.
That's a lot of headaches & Wife-based grief just to set a time?
Other option is - I cut my losses now - sell up and move onto something else.[/QUOTE]
I was meaning to re-program the ecu to get around the bits you don't like and keeping what you do, as there appears to be knowledgeable people out there who are able to re-program the ME7 ecu, thus you don't need 850 throttlebodies and cables, pedal, harness etc
Post 630326 by jardon on 2013-07-29 14:47:34
John (Dream3R) has been doing some ME7 programming. I don't know why you're worrying about vvt - it might make a 5% difference to the finished performance. Ignore the vvt. You just need control of throttle opening, fuelling, boost and spark advance. The "point" of ME7 is emissions control and engine protection.
Post 630339 by graemewelch on 2013-07-29 15:27:31
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630311]Already have an engine stand, I don't have the precision engineering tools or experience to make this work.
I am more uncertain about the ME7 as a design - just like no-one would run a standard geartronic g/b to go down the drag strip either.[/QUOTE]
befor you get to far into the build again id be speaking to the likes of shark performance and see what they say about mapping this kind of management. ask as many question to as many people who have the proven knolodge of these systems and builds. i know nowt about ME7 so thats about the only advise i can offer.
Post 630364 by GregE102 on 2013-07-29 16:06:51
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;630283]The old engine was using water & had shown that the H/G was on it's way (confirmed on a sniffer test). That doesn't matter so much to me.
My RCA is going nowhere - I am no closer to the truth about where the oil went. Turbo has a clean bill of health. The 2 oil pumps look identical & I still don't know if pushing on with ME7 will even work.[/QUOTE]
Dave You now must be sick of people telling you to do? try this and do that? I would be! And I have been in your shoes as well so i know how it feels, under pressure from the Missis, something you have loved and enjoyed as a project gone wrong! Got the T shirt! Your questions remind me of mine!
But I would place a months wages on the fact that Tim's diagnosis of you engine failure, from your postings is right! so why bother to keep looking? It failed! so if you build it right with safeguards in place the second time! (Gauges will help) it should not happen again!
Jardon and other's on T5D5 have successful run tuned ME7 engine for some time! so if you want to stick with ME7 there there really is no problem! Jardon's was close to 400bhp with a hybrid 19t and he never had any problems with his engine!
And a good bit of advise would be to ask Tim Williams his opinion on the build?
On another note I also see a lot of stigma still! from Members who have the us and them thing going on! (Why?) Well Tim has already been good enough to post his opinion, and offered advise! he has no prejudice to which forum anyone comes from! And has only ever helped out people who have problems no matter what?
Example! Many years ago when i was an ££££ (and still am) and only frequented this forum i would always go T5D5 and stir it up and ask question by a garage owner who shall remain unnamed, I would make all sorts of accusations get warnings from Ben, but after all i said and did, at the end of the day when my problems reared their head! he still helped me, and what I had said or where I came from did not matter one bit! So drop him a pm and see what he thinks?
Cheers Greg
Post 632465 by EddyP on 2013-08-04 18:14:51
Dave,
I run the TTV flywheel with an S60R clutch on an M66 gearbox, not had any issues. There is a noticeable rattle in the box at idle, and you can sometimes here a bit of back lash when you're at low engine speed and on/off the throttle, but it doesn't really bother me.
The main reason I went down that route was I wanted a lightened flywheel to allow for a quicker response and also it made life easier mating a 850 engine to an M66 box.
One thing to note is the quality of the TTV flywheel, the machining is top notch, and when I balanced the engine before building it, the flywheel was perfectly balanced.
Finally, I get the impression that you're not confident to build this new engine yourself, so you're thinking of going to some pro engineering shops etc.. have you asked Tim if he could build you one? he's not that far away from you and with his vast Volvo knowledge he's bound to do a better job than the vast majority of places I would have thought. His builds are also well proven!
I'd offer to give you a hand but my first major rebuild is still only about 100 miles into it's testing phase, so want to prove it's a good job before offering to help anyone else :eclipsee_
Post 632497 by deathrider311271 on 2013-08-04 20:40:55
I tell you what there is no helping some people!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Post 632502 by t5 pete on 2013-08-04 21:11:56
[QUOTE=deathrider311271;632497]I tell you what there is no helping some people!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/QUOTE]
Why do people talk in riddles the amount of time I scratch my head on here with wondering what some one is meaning its like ive got nits
Post 632515 by claymore on 2013-08-04 21:28:04
[QUOTE=t5 pete;632502]Why do people talk in riddles the amount of time I scratch my head on here with wondering what some one is meaning its like ive got nits[/QUOTE]
yep, I couldn't understand that post either?
Post 632522 by Jamest5r on 2013-08-04 21:33:19
Deathrider is pointing WD in the direction of Tim, like the previous post's. Not a bad thing at all just some people attend different churches, im an athiest :)
Post 635357 by graemewelch on 2013-08-14 19:26:09
hows the rebuild going. you decieded on a new plan of attack?
Post 635361 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-08-14 19:36:28
Like your foot repair - Slowly.
I picked up the inspected head on Monday. There is a very slight burr on the contact patch which will disappear soon. I had them measure the number 2 rod big end which is defo oval now - so that will be going on the wall - or be made into next year's fastest Volvo trophy at York??
Massive thanks to Smiffy for sourcing the 1 spare rod I needed, by using his considerable influence.
The crank's been taken out the original engine & the rest sent to the scrapyard.
Just a case of trying to get the time & money together to get the shopping list done.
Not expecting to be back on the road anytime soon. I have a few things up my sleeve that I want to do - but I am not giving the game away just yet.
Post 635365 by graemewelch on 2013-08-14 19:45:36
sounds good, i cant wait, have you thought about running a external wastegate on your setup. its somthing im thinking about when i upgrade
Post 635368 by V70 Graham on 2013-08-14 20:00:28
Looks like its TRAX in Mrs Wobbly's car.
Post 635370 by MoleT-5R on 2013-08-14 20:02:59
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;635368]Looks like its TRAX in Mrs Wobbly's car.[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't be the first time WD did trax in the S40
Post 635377 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-08-14 20:20:28
[QUOTE=graemewelch;635365]sounds good, i cant wait, have you thought about running a external wastegate on your setup. its somthing im thinking about when i upgrade[/QUOTE]
I thought about it & considered it unnecessary. I'm not sure that I am going to run enough boost to warrant one - plus the extra plumbing would make revising back to an external gate expensive. If it was designed from the outset then perhaps it would have been viable.
Post 635394 by stribo on 2013-08-14 20:44:40
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;635361]Like your foot repair - Slowly.
I picked up the inspected head on Monday. There is a very slight burr on the contact patch which will disappear soon. I had them measure the number 2 rod big end which is defo oval now - so that will be going on the wall - or be made into next year's fastest Volvo trophy at York??
Massive thanks to Smiffy for sourcing the 1 spare rod I needed, by using his considerable influence.
The crank's been taken out the original engine & the rest sent to the scrapyard.
Just a case of trying to get the time & money together to get the shopping list done.
Not expecting to be back on the road anytime soon. I have a few things up my sleeve that I want to do - but I am not giving the game away just yet.[/QUOTE]
Glad to see you've started the process of rebuilding it, does that mean I've got the fastest C70 at the moment. ;) Along with the slowest S60R. :(
Post 635401 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-08-14 20:51:44
Well I am done with taking anything else apart AFAIK.
Post 635447 by Dream3r on 2013-08-14 22:14:45
Re ME7 Dave. Just look at the VAG stuff there is some mental B5 RS4's running the same ECU as your car.
It comes down to the mapping.
IMO, ME7 is far safer with it's wideband and component protection systems. You are limited to 1.55 bar of boost though.
Post 635523 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-08-14 23:50:08
Is the 1.55bar a limit set in the map or ECU?
Post 635531 by AndysR on 2013-08-15 00:04:01
I went away from this thread feeling as there were vibes that you were giving up, now I am getting vibes that your getting stuck in so well done Dave, looking forward to reading your updates as things progress even if it takes a while it looks and sounds like bigger and better is theme to Betsy's revival :)
Post 635536 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-08-15 00:11:44
Undoubtably the redevelopment will be slower, more cautious and yes there have been moments when looking at FHT C70s
Post 635540 by AndysR on 2013-08-15 00:13:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;635536]Undoubtably the redevelopment will be slower, more cautious and yes there have been moments when looking at FHT C70s[/QUOTE]
Slow and steady wins the race ;)
Post 660490 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-14 00:01:47
Realising that my project thread had almost slipped out of mind, languishing in the irrelevant pages some where almost as obscure as Smithy's 940 rebuild, I figured a small update may be overdue.
More out of annoyance that this evening I discovered that using a TTV replacement for my DMF is a bad idea - because the sachs motorsport friction plate in my clutch has no damping and more than likely will end up tearing my gearbox limb from limb - I have the sad task of returning it or selling it on. Budgetary constraints dictate that it is not worth breaking the gearbox just for the sake of a few KGs. I'd have to change clutch - TBH something I am not keen to do knowing that the sachs performance version works very well.
The rest of the engine re-build is in quite a primative state, but there is a plan of action, including some of the following
3 cut valves & seats
gas flow, ported & polished head
dynamically balance crank
lower compression ratio
bespoke cylinder shiming
top secret cam redevelopment - I could tell you but then I'd have to kill you - and that could prove expensive.
I'm hoping that the engine may be ready before Xmas - fingers crossed.
Post 660496 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-14 05:19:26
Glad to see there are plans in place Dave to see you getting 'Besty' back on the road, maybe nicely run in by the 'Rolling Road' day in Febuary.
Post 660526 by M-R-P on 2013-11-14 09:56:47
Hope it all goes to plan Dave, I was wondering what was going on after chatting with Hamish yesterday.
Post 660529 by Biff on 2013-11-14 10:07:00
Well done Dave, keep at it.
She will return to put a smile on your face I'm sure.
Post 660530 by stribo on 2013-11-14 10:13:08
You take your time mate, I want to make the most of having the quickest C70.;)
Post 660537 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-14 11:38:16
[QUOTE=M-R-P;660526]Hope it all goes to plan Dave, I was wondering what was going on after chatting with Hamish yesterday.[/QUOTE] I heard your visit went well.
Post 660539 by M-R-P on 2013-11-14 11:45:27
Indeed it did mate, and a big thankyou for your input ;)
Hamish is an entertaining fella :)
Post 660542 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-14 11:50:51
[QUOTE=M-R-P;660539]....Hamish is an entertaining fella :)[/QUOTE]
Awwww he wasn't that good, the juggling was ok but his fire eating leaves something to be desired lol
Post 660544 by graemewelch on 2013-11-14 11:53:26
cant wait to see this fire up again. all being well ill be coming to give you a hand.
Post 660546 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-14 11:58:45
[QUOTE=graemewelch;660544]cant wait to see this fire up again..[/QUOTE]
me neither
[QUOTE=graemewelch;660544] all being well ill be coming to give you a hand.[/QUOTE]
I am counting on it.
Post 660573 by graemewelch on 2013-11-14 14:55:55
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;660546]me neither
I am counting on it.[/QUOTE]
Just let me know whats needed closer to the time, ive got a engine hoist i can bring down. no shortage on tools either
Post 660593 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-14 17:17:57
hoist would be useful for sure - will help with raising the nose of the car as I am planning to slide the blighter on the subframe. Come to think of it what would be very useful would be creating metal casters on a metal box frame as low as you like to help move the engine about on the subframe.
It was only marginally successful with the wheeled frame I have from my engine stand because it only has 3 sides and is not a perfect fit for the dimensions of the subframe.
If you can fab up a frame with the right dimensions (which I can provide) then that would be amazing
Post 660602 by graemewelch on 2013-11-14 18:01:03
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;660593]hoist would be useful for sure - will help with raising the nose of the car as I am planning to slide the blighter on the subframe. Come to think of it what would be very useful would be creating metal casters on a metal box frame as low as you like to help move the engine about on the subframe.
It was only marginally successful with the wheeled frame I have from my engine stand because it only has 3 sides and is not a perfect fit for the dimensions of the subframe.
If you can fab up a frame with the right dimensions (which I can provide) then that would be amazing[/QUOTE]
no probs at all. ill check ebay for some wheels/castors. ive got a half decent trolley jack to thatll get a resonable amount of hieght.
Post 661720 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-18 15:55:22
More pipe dreaming. Polestar blue body, boot & bonnet and black roof & pillars (A & C).
Dark wheels.
Discuss...
Post 661721 by M-R-P on 2013-11-18 15:58:07
Been done - sort of...link
Post 661723 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-18 16:15:55
[QUOTE=M-R-P;661721]Been done - sort of...link[/QUOTE]
That's rotten ! :yikes:
Post 661725 by graemewelch on 2013-11-18 16:20:54
[QUOTE=M-R-P;661721]Been done - sort of...link[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;661723]That's rotten ! :yikes:[/QUOTE]
thats awful. keep it silver dave. looks nice as it is
Post 661726 by smithy on 2013-11-18 16:22:19
Don't do it leave the car silver .better sleeper that way
Post 661727 by M-R-P on 2013-11-18 16:25:47
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;661723]That's rotten ! :yikes:[/QUOTE]
He who shal not be named posted it on the other forum with "one for stribo..." hahahha
Post 661737 by claymore on 2013-11-18 17:17:05
[QUOTE=smithy;661726]Don't do it leave the car silver .better sleeper that way[/QUOTE]
Sleepers are over rated
Post 661741 by Nealevo on 2013-11-18 17:28:20
Polestar blue mmmmmm or jaguar French racing blue:)
Post 661748 by stribo on 2013-11-18 17:49:54
[QUOTE=M-R-P;661727]He who shal not be named posted it on the other forum with "one for stribo..." hahahha[/QUOTE]
Missed that, I'll have to have words with him. ;)
Post 661825 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-19 00:12:09
[QUOTE=M-R-P;661721]Been done - sort of...link[/QUOTE]
Nothing like what I had in mind. Only the roof & pillars would be black.
Post 661828 by MoleT-5R on 2013-11-19 02:19:30
ok who out bid me? I thought it was at least worth a tenner....lol
Post 661850 by iancho on 2013-11-19 08:13:14
I got a price yesterday Dave for wrapping the roof, £250+ so I will be getting mine Sprayed Black instead as it will probably be about the same price.
He said the roof is incredibly difficult to wrap without getting creases so I'm thinking it's less worrying to paint it.
I'm also thinking of getting my pillars done and various other areas. I'm going to see a guy on Friday for prices.
I think Betsy needs a bit of make up mate.... all girls like to feel 'Special' :)
Post 661856 by M-R-P on 2013-11-19 08:57:05
[QUOTE=iancho;661850]I got a price yesterday Dave for wrapping the roof, £250+ so I will be getting mine Sprayed Black instead as it will probably be about the same price.
He said the roof is incredibly difficult to wrap without getting creases so I'm thinking it's less worrying to paint it.
I'm also thinking of getting my pillars done and various other areas. I'm going to see a guy on Friday for prices.
I think Betsy needs a bit of make up mate.... all girls like to feel 'Special' :)[/QUOTE]
£250 is a rip off mate. I was quoted £180 to wrap my roof. I wasn't happy paying that so me and Graham did it with £50 of fleabay vinyl and it still looks good 18 months later.
Post 662078 by MoleT-5R on 2013-11-20 01:25:42
can't quite see WD doing vinyl, If he did want to tart the SSB up I'm sure he'd come up with a nicely executed paint job
Post 662083 by stribo on 2013-11-20 07:09:08
[QUOTE=M-R-P;661856]£250 is a rip off mate. I was quoted £180 to wrap my roof. I wasn't happy paying that so me and Graham did it with £50 of fleabay vinyl and it still looks good 18 months later.[/QUOTE]
And how much fun did you have wrapping it?
Post 662085 by M-R-P on 2013-11-20 08:09:55
[QUOTE=stribo;662083]And how much fun did you have wrapping it?[/QUOTE]
Oh, loads mate :)
Post 662093 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-20 09:27:13
[QUOTE=stribo;662083]And how much fun did you have wrapping it?[/QUOTE]
Loved every second, but the result was worth it.
Post 662095 by ExternalError on 2013-11-20 10:22:50
errm graham and martin getting sticky with vinyl now thats an image i dont want to see
Post 662101 by stribo on 2013-11-20 13:05:08
[QUOTE=ExternalError;662095]errm graham and martin getting sticky with vinyl now thats an image i dont want to see[/QUOTE]
I believe there are pics.;)
Post 662102 by ExternalError on 2013-11-20 13:18:43
you mean there were pics but they have since been censored from any google search due to the indecent nature
Post 662115 by ExternalError on 2013-11-20 17:09:39
whats graham doing in the 4th pic
Post 662116 by ExternalError on 2013-11-20 17:10:13
joking aside now we need to get back on track of what dave is going to do to the SSB next
Post 662147 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-20 19:27:09
Today I was looking at jacking it all in and getting a C30 T5 instead
Post 662149 by WOODY T5 on 2013-11-20 19:28:49
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;662147]Today I was looking at jacking it all in and getting a C30 T5 instead[/QUOTE]why why why dave
Post 662150 by stribo on 2013-11-20 19:32:27
I quite like the look of the C30, but the T5's seem to be quite rare. Stick with the C70 mate, you've come this far, would be a shame to throw it all in now.
Post 662157 by T5frankie on 2013-11-20 19:53:39
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;662147]Today I was looking at jacking it all in and getting a C30 T5 instead[/QUOTE]
oh dear lol
Post 662158 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-20 19:56:51
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;662147]Today I was looking at jacking it all in and getting a C30 T5 instead[/QUOTE]
Noooooo how long before you'd regret it ?
Post 662178 by graemewelch on 2013-11-20 20:54:05
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;662147]Today I was looking at jacking it all in and getting a C30 T5 instead[/QUOTE]
get a car cover and just forget about it for a few months.
Post 662187 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-20 21:13:10
I am just growing impatient for my engine to be finished.
Post 662190 by stribo on 2013-11-20 21:22:14
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;662187]I am just growing impatient for my engine to be finished.[/QUOTE]
Everything comes to he who waits. :)
Post 662198 by t5 pete on 2013-11-20 21:32:54
[QUOTE=stribo;662190]Everything comes to he who waits. :)[/QUOTE]
Very true and he who rushes has trouble later on
Post 662199 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-20 21:32:54
[QUOTE=stribo;662190]Everything comes to he who waits. :)[/QUOTE]
Yup, cars/engines like yours aren't built overnight.
Post 662212 by craigoodwood on 2013-11-20 22:16:10
victory loves preparation
Post 662213 by Biff on 2013-11-20 22:46:34
Dave don't do it, you might aswel get a focus st & a fix or repair daily tshirt.
Have patience... ;)
Post 662215 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-20 23:31:14
Ford ST will handle better than the SSB, but it is true I don't want to own one.
Post 662900 by AndysR on 2013-11-23 17:19:58
Good to hear the project is still moving Dave, be good to see it up and running again :)
Post 664962 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-30 21:38:43
It's finally moving slowly. I went to see my engine builder today. They've finished balancing the new crank. They've measured, balanced and fettled the conrods and wiseco pistons. Apparently there was quite a lot of difference in the pistons which has now been corrected. I did take a photo but it didn't come out - bit rushed and out of focus.
They can start building up the bottom end next week and work can start on the cylinder head - porting, polish and gas flow - 3 angle valve seats etc.
I've got the new flywheel back to return to Kalmar.
Post 664963 by stribo on 2013-11-30 21:43:47
Great that it's moving on mate, just annoying (for you) that it takes so long, but these things can't be rushed.
Post 664965 by V70 Graham on 2013-11-30 21:48:35
Do we have a rough idea when the engine will be complete Dave ?
Post 664968 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-30 21:58:29
I am hoping all the engineering work can be finished in the next 2 weeks. Block should be re-assembled wih the head on - end of this year?
I've set no particular timescale. I'll be happy enough if the car is up and running by end of January.
Post 664969 by danny-R on 2013-11-30 22:01:28
Fingers crossed mate. See you at york?
Post 664971 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-30 22:04:21
[QUOTE=danny-R;664969]Fingers crossed mate. See you at york?[/QUOTE]
Yep - I've got a Dean to beat LOL. ;)
Post 664972 by danny-R on 2013-11-30 22:05:21
That's the spirit
Post 664973 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-30 22:12:10
Most of the delays were down to getting the flywheel ordered only then to decide against it - which is a tad irritating.
Post 664975 by t5 pete on 2013-11-30 22:18:46
Brilliant news Dave look forward to seeing you back up and running
Post 664981 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-11-30 22:31:04
[QUOTE=t5 pete;664975]Brilliant news Dave look forward to seeing you back up and running[/QUOTE]
me too. As much as I have tried, I just cannot get excited about the blue R-design diesel S40.
Post 669246 by stribo on 2013-12-14 01:35:28
Good to see an update, coming along nicely.
Post 669260 by AndysR on 2013-12-14 08:38:51
Good to see progress being made Dave :)
Post 669300 by smithy on 2013-12-14 10:57:07
Nice work keep it going
Post 669320 by V70 Graham on 2013-12-14 13:03:12
Glad to see the engine is coming along nicely Dave.
Post 669325 by rikcougar on 2013-12-14 13:13:11
Looking good Dave
When are you hoping to have her back in action?
Post 669329 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 13:18:08
looking good. i best pull my finger out and do my part
Post 669465 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-12-14 20:58:49
[QUOTE=graemewelch;669329]looking good. i best pull my finger out and do my part[/QUOTE]
Yes plz.
Post 669467 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-12-14 21:00:09
[QUOTE=rikcougar;669325]Looking good Dave
When are you hoping to have her back in action?[/QUOTE]
I am hoping to have her ready to race for March/April - shakedown at Avon & then the main deal to challenge Dean at York.
Post 669469 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 21:04:54
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669467]I am hoping to have her ready to race for March/April - shakedown at Avon & then the main deal to challenge Dean at York.[/QUOTE]
Lol every one is gunning for dean.
There has been alot of money spent because of that man
Post 669470 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 21:10:00
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669465]Yes plz.[/QUOTE]
on to it already dave. be done in the new year for you unless you want it earlier.
Post 669471 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-12-14 21:11:38
[QUOTE=t5 pete;669469]Lol every one is gunning for dean.
There has been alot of money spent because of that man[/QUOTE] tell me about it. I can remember when 14.5 was the forum record. Letting him get away with it 5 years on the trot would be just wrong.
Post 669472 by claymore on 2013-12-14 21:14:04
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669467]I am hoping to have her ready to race for March/April - shakedown at Avon & then the main deal to challenge Dean at York.[/QUOTE]
Me too :)
Post 669473 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 21:16:33
[QUOTE=claymore;669472]Me too :)[/QUOTE]
Me three
Post 669474 by claymore on 2013-12-14 21:17:14
[QUOTE=t5 pete;669469]Lol every one is gunning for dean.
There has been alot of money spent because of that man[/QUOTE]
A lot of the big power cars had teething problems all this year, I wouldn't be surprised to see Dean go down about 4 or 5 places next year ;)
Post 669475 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:22:35
[QUOTE=t5 pete;669469]Lol every one is gunning for dean.
There has been alot of money spent because of that man[/QUOTE]bring it dudes lol
Post 669476 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:23:17
[QUOTE=claymore;669474]A lot of the big power cars had teething problems all this year, I wouldn't be surprised to see Dean go down about 4 or 5 places next year ;)[/QUOTE]yeah like the last 3 years col
Post 669477 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:24:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669471]tell me about it. I can remember when 14.5 was the forum record. Letting him get away with it 5 years on the trot would be just wrong.[/QUOTE]just hope u and your man don't break anything trying lol
Post 669478 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:25:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669467]I am hoping to have her ready to race for March/April - shakedown at Avon & then the main deal to challenge Dean at York.[/QUOTE]do I need my rods now :)
Post 669479 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:26:38
And to think my car is on standard rods and self built with bolt on's
Post 669481 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:27:33
Where's frankie anyway doh
Post 669482 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 21:30:20
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669481]Where's frankie anyway doh[/QUOTE]
Probley out trying to get above 20 odd psi
Post 669484 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 21:45:50
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669479]And to think my car is on standard rods and self built with bolt on's[/QUOTE]
mine to. just need to get my knackered shafts sorted and ill be chasing you on the strip to. got a few more tweaks to make first though
Post 669486 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 21:49:11
York will certainly be fun next year lets hope for good weather
Post 669489 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:52:35
[QUOTE=graemewelch;669484]mine to. just need to get my knackered shafts sorted and ill be chasing you on the strip to. got a few more tweaks to make first though[/QUOTE]lol u don't have any times yet let a loan try and chase me its lonely out there on the strip it's not all bout bhp mr virgin :)
Post 669491 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:53:27
[QUOTE=t5 pete;669486]York will certainly be fun next year lets hope for good weather[/QUOTE]for u 4 yeah don't forget each year I get faster ;)
Post 669492 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:54:45
There's someone or two missing from this tho!
Post 669493 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 21:56:58
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669489]lol u don't have any times yet let a loan try and chase me its lonely out there on the strip it's not all bout bhp mr virgin :)[/QUOTE]
i dont expect to beat you but ill have good fun trying. yorks not to far away from me. i might get some practice in
Post 669494 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 21:57:21
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669491]for u 4 yeah don't forget each year I get faster ;)[/QUOTE]
Yup and I get slower every time I go if I dont improve this year im putting it down as a bad job
Post 669495 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 21:58:13
[QUOTE=graemewelch;669493]i dont expect to beat you but ill have good fun trying. yorks not to far away from me. i might get some practice in[/QUOTE]i would let me know when meet u down there :)
Post 669496 by smithy on 2013-12-14 21:58:38
I will be at York even though my car don't like going up north lol .should get a 15 sec quater first time out then I will say bye bye to dean and yes you will need your rods lol
Post 669499 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 22:00:46
[QUOTE=smithy;669496]I will be at York even though my car don't like going up north lol .should get a 15 sec quater first time out then I will say bye bye to dean and yes you will need your rods lol[/QUOTE]heres one of them just jim to go now lol hello mate how's things :)
Post 669500 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 22:01:35
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669499]heres one of them just jim to go now lol hello mate how's things :)[/QUOTE]
Pmsl
Post 669502 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 22:02:13
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669495]i would let me know when meet u down there :)[/QUOTE]
will do. aslong as you give me some tips lol. i fancy having a bash a in the new year if the snow keeps away.
Post 669503 by t5 pete on 2013-12-14 22:02:25
[QUOTE=smithy;669496]I will be at York even though my car don't like going up north lol .should get a 15 sec quater first time out then I will say bye bye to dean and yes you will need your rods lol[/QUOTE]
Time will tell ive yet to see the 940 get any where near york
Post 669505 by smithy on 2013-12-14 22:04:49
[QUOTE=t5 pete;669503]Time will tell ive yet to see the 940 get any where near york[/QUOTE]
Every time I try to go north the car throws a hissy fit lol.even if I have to put it on a trailer it will be there .just hope the weather is good to us .
Post 669506 by smithy on 2013-12-14 22:06:20
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669499]heres one of them just jim to go now lol hello mate how's things :)[/QUOTE]
I'm fine mate and yes the car will be there I cannot wait to drive the bloody thing .its about time it come out to play.
Post 669508 by graemewelch on 2013-12-14 22:14:01
[QUOTE=smithy;669505]Every time I try to go north the car throws a hissy fit lol.even if I have to put it on a trailer it will be there .just hope the weather is good to us .[/QUOTE]
we never have good weather up north
Post 669510 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-12-14 22:15:34
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;669479]And to think my car is on standard rods and self built with bolt on's[/QUOTE]
It is a truth that there are just some engines and systems that hook up together. I find it quite frustrating that I've tried to do things the right way and so far have come up short.
Post 669511 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 22:16:04
[QUOTE=graemewelch;669508]we never have good weather up north[/QUOTE]til me bout 13.5 @ York in the rain and sun mate
Post 669513 by WOODY T5 on 2013-12-14 22:22:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;669510]It is a truth that there are just some engines and systems that hook up together. I find it quite frustrating that I've trie to do things the right way and so far have come up short.[/QUOTE]i can til dave but its just one of them cars that works well with all the bits i do think a lot of its down to its map tho don't really won't to touch it @ mo might just do one more year on standard rods just do some little bits here and there but the spec u have it should or will come very good soon when I will be chasing u:)
Post 669516 by Wobbly Dave on 2013-12-14 22:30:52
Early on when Betsy had her original engine - which showed more promise than the one that replaced it - it ran 250bhp out the box with no mods. Sadly it popped just after fitting the 19T.
Post 677465 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-04 22:45:47
Talked to my engine builder on Friday - Bottom end is finished and the sump is back on. Head is nearly finished. I should have the engine back by the end of Jan. It is dragging a bit, due to resourcing issues. Hope to be back on the road in Feb.
Post 677468 by stribo on 2014-01-04 22:48:12
Look forward to seeing it up and running Dave.
Post 677469 by t5 pete on 2014-01-04 22:49:38
Great news
Post 677470 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-04 22:49:42
[QUOTE=stribo;677468]Look forward to seeing it up and running Dave.[/QUOTE]
You & me both.
Post 677488 by V70 Graham on 2014-01-04 23:14:02
Great news Dave.
Post 677516 by AndysR on 2014-01-04 23:51:07
Fantastic news Dave, can't wait to see it up and running again :)
Post 677523 by foammanmark on 2014-01-04 23:57:36
Looking good for York then, and I look forward to the 'Dean' challenge.
Post 677526 by smithy on 2014-01-05 00:01:30
Great news
Post 677527 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-05 00:04:45
There is a way to go yet.
Post 677529 by foammanmark on 2014-01-05 00:08:30
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;677527]There is a way to go yet.[/QUOTE]
You'll be ready in time though, as it's 5 months away or so. Are you on those 19's of mine yet?
Post 677533 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-05 00:23:04
Had to sell them on.
Post 677559 by T5frankie on 2014-01-05 10:33:16
great news dave
Post 678010 by lance on 2014-01-06 15:06:48
Excellent news :-)
Post 679386 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-10 22:00:49
Rang my engine builder today for a brief chat/ update today. Great news is that the head is finished (though I forgot to ask if it has been bolted on). Skimmed, ported, polished & gas flowed - all new valves & 3 angle seat job.
Compression has been lowered - 7.93 to 1
My engine builder put his best cam profile SME to look at my cams & decided that it wasn't worth doing. I've talked this over with Hamish and I am happy with that.
Anyway I am trying to keep calm, but it looks like we're nearly there. Hope to go down mid week to bring the bits and the rocker cover tool & get the engine timed up/ finished off.
Post 679388 by smithy on 2014-01-10 22:04:03
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679386]Rang my engine builder today for a brief chat/ update today. Great news is that the head is finished (though I forgot to ask if it has been bolted on). Skimmed, ported, polished & gas flowed - all new valves & 3 angle seat job.
Compression has been lowered - 7.93 to 1
My engine builder put his best cam profile SME to look at my cams & decided that it wasn't worth doing. I've talked this over with Hamish and I am happy with that.
Anyway I am trying to keep calm, but it looks like we're nearly there. Hope to go down mid week to bring the bits and the rocker cover tool & get the engine timed up/ finished off.[/QUOTE]
Weldone Dave looking forward to the finished article .
Post 679389 by stribo on 2014-01-10 22:05:06
Good news Dave, I'm looking forward to seeing it back at it's best, even if it means getting thrashed again.
Post 679392 by theflyingbrick on 2014-01-10 22:15:40
that's good news dave im well chuffed for you mate and look forward to seeing it running once more ;)
Post 679396 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-10 22:36:29
Certainly feels more genuine this time rather than just a bunch of expensive parts bolted together.
Post 679417 by graemewelch on 2014-01-10 23:58:01
[PHP]h[/PHP]Whats the standard compression ratio on the t5. Aet said nosh lost the bhp he would of gained on a flowed head cause he lowered the compresion
Post 679418 by p fandango on 2014-01-11 00:02:15
[QUOTE=graemewelch;679417][PHP]h[/PHP]Whats the standard compression ratio on the t5[/QUOTE]
8.5:1
Post 679420 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-11 00:06:57
8.5 to 1. With NA engines I'd agree - usually you want to raise the compression to get the maximum efficiency from the same amount of fuel. With forced induction can utilise the lowered compression to get more F&A into the cylinder to compensate - force the bleedin' stuff in & avoid det. which is why it is normally lower than NA engines for that reason.
Post 679422 by Jamest5r on 2014-01-11 00:12:30
Going to be nice Dave :) run in by the end of March then and then go and get it properly mapped or were all going to gang up and bitch slap you :)
Post 679424 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-11 00:21:32
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;679422]Going to be nice Dave :) run in by the end of March then and then go and ...[/QUOTE]
break it again?
Post 679458 by claymore on 2014-01-11 09:34:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679386]
Compression has been lowered - 7.93 to 1
.[/QUOTE]
I don't quite understand the reasoning for this, unless your going to be running 30psi. Your car is going to be completely gutless before the turbo spools with a cr that low, can you explain exactly why the engine builder has suggested this (Alarm bells are starting to ring in my head) unless you're aiming for well over 500 bhp. and again, why would you not use NA cams if you're doing all this work?
Post 679459 by claymore on 2014-01-11 09:37:57
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679420]8.5 to 1. With NA engines I'd agree - usually you want to raise the compression to get the maximum efficiency from the same amount of fuel. With forced induction can utilise the lowered compression to get more F&A into the cylinder to compensate - force the bleedin' stuff in & avoid det. which is why it is normally lower than NA engines for that reason.[/QUOTE]
Weare all aware that you need to lower the cr for a turbo engine, which is why the cr is lowered to 8.5 to 1, lowering it as low as you have has just killed any performance gains you may have had in gas flowing the head...I really don't trust your engine builder, does he normally work on Volvo engines?
Post 679465 by smithy on 2014-01-11 10:08:55
[QUOTE=claymore;679459]Weare all aware that you need to lower the cr for a turbo engine, which is why the cr is lowered to 8.5 to 1, lowering it as low as you have has just killed any performance gains you may have had in gas flowing the head...I really don't trust your engine builder, does he normally work on Volvo engines?[/QUOTE]
S60r runs at 8 to 1 ratio and they run fine .and my v70 2.5lpt ran well into the 7s on the compression ratio and never a problem and it pulled very well .you can also map round lower compression wilst off boost to keep the torque up .
Post 679492 by stribo on 2014-01-11 12:27:09
TBH off boost the S60R feels pretty sluggish, once on boost however....:D
Post 679493 by graemewelch on 2014-01-11 12:41:13
[QUOTE=stribo;679492]TBH off boost the S60R feels pretty sluggish, once on boost however....:D[/QUOTE]
thats strange i thought it would of drove exactly the same as the t5. my engine is same as yours except 100cc smaller.
Post 679500 by claymore on 2014-01-11 12:52:17
[QUOTE=smithy;679465]S60r runs at 8 to 1 ratio and they run fine .and my v70 2.5lpt ran well into the 7s on the compression ratio and never a problem and it pulled very well .you can also map round lower compression wilst off boost to keep the torque up .[/QUOTE]
But why do you need to lower it that far in the first place, I run 8.5 to 1 with no detonation problems, and if I did get close to the limit I would rather water inject it rather than compromise performance, seems like a huge backward step to me.
And I don't understand the bit I've highlighted in bold?
Post 679502 by jamesy12345 on 2014-01-11 12:59:27
[QUOTE=claymore;679500]But why do you need to lower it that far in the first place, I run 8.5 to 1 with no detonation problems, and if I did get close to the limit I would rather water inject it rather than compromise performance, seems like a huge backward step to me.
And I don't understand the bit I've highlighted in bold?[/QUOTE]
Somewhere between 7.0:1 and 7.9:1 compression ratio on his 2.5 LPT
Post 679504 by claymore on 2014-01-11 13:09:08
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;679502]Somewhere between 7.0:1 and 7.9:1 compression ratio on his 2.5 LPT[/QUOTE]
Still makes no sense, I see no reason to lower the compression that far: This from Garrett's own web site:
There are numerous factors that affect the maximum allowable compression ratio. There is no single correct answer for every application. Generally, compression ratio should be set as high as feasible without encountering detonation at the maximum load condition. Compression ratio that is too low will result in an engine that is a bit sluggish in off-boost operation. However, if it is too high this can lead to serious knock-related engine problems.
I can only assume that Dave is trying to go for well over 500 bhp
Post 679505 by WOODY T5 on 2014-01-11 13:19:33
[QUOTE=claymore;679504]Still makes no sense, I see no reason to lower the compression that far: This from Garrett's own web site:
There are numerous factors that affect the maximum allowable compression ratio. There is no single correct answer for every application. Generally, compression ratio should be set as high as feasible without encountering detonation at the maximum load condition. Compression ratio that is too low will result in an engine that is a bit sluggish in off-boost operation. However, if it is too high this can lead to serious knock-related engine problems.
I can only assume that Dave is trying to go for well over 500 bhp[/QUOTE]because he is going to need col lol
Post 679568 by stribo on 2014-01-11 17:06:45
[QUOTE=graemewelch;679493]thats strange i thought it would of drove exactly the same as the t5. my engine is same as yours except 100cc smaller.[/QUOTE]
But its a heavier car.
Post 679615 by graemewelch on 2014-01-11 18:04:14
[QUOTE=stribo;679568]But its a heavier car.[/QUOTE]
cant be that much heavier. that probobly the difference between 2wd and awd. well have to try each others car if your at rolling road day. be intresting to compare the two
Post 679623 by stribo on 2014-01-11 18:12:14
[QUOTE=graemewelch;679615]cant be that much heavier. that probobly the difference between 2wd and awd. well have to try each others car if your at rolling road day. be intresting to compare the two[/QUOTE]
Yeah, are you going to Uxbridge?
Post 679639 by V70 Graham on 2014-01-11 18:42:39
[QUOTE=stribo;679623]Yeah, are you going to Uxbridge?[/QUOTE]
Keep up speedy, he's already paid his deposit !
Post 679640 by graemewelch on 2014-01-11 18:43:15
[QUOTE=stribo;679623]Yeah, are you going to Uxbridge?[/QUOTE]
sure am payed the deposit today
Post 679752 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-12 01:01:14
[QUOTE=claymore;679504]Still makes no sense, I see no reason to lower the compression that far: This from Garrett's own web site:
There are numerous factors that affect the maximum allowable compression ratio. There is no single correct answer for every application. Generally, compression ratio should be set as high as feasible without encountering detonation at the maximum load condition. Compression ratio that is too low will result in an engine that is a bit sluggish in off-boost operation. However, if it is too high this can lead to serious knock-related engine problems.
I can only assume that Dave is trying to go for well over 500 bhp[/QUOTE]
I appreciate what you're saying Col. However I don't have a particular power figure in mind. I trust what Hamish has told me about CR & the need for higher lift cams. Only time will tell if that trust is misplaced. The engine builder runs his own autosport engineering firm, with many years based in competitive engine building.
AFAIK the C70 coupe has a kerbside weight of 1450kg. They aren't heavier than any other Volvo of the same era - if anything they're a bit lighter? Perhaps if I get the time I will get it weighed.
Post 679765 by stribo on 2014-01-12 07:51:03
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679752]I appreciate what you're saying Col. However I don't have a particular power figure in mind. I trust what Hamish has told me about CR & the need for higher lift cams. Only time will tell if that trust is misplaced. The engine builder runs his own autosport engineering firm, with many years based in competitive engine building.
AFAIK the C70 coupe has a kerbside weight of 1450kg. They aren't heavier than any other Volvo of the same era - if anything they're a bit lighter? Perhaps if I get the time I will get it weighed.[/QUOTE]
The C70 is definitely heavier than the V70, don't know about the S70.
Post 679770 by T5frankie on 2014-01-12 10:08:47
[QUOTE=stribo;679765]The C70 is definitely heavier than the V70, don't know about the S70.[/QUOTE]
the s70 is lighter than the v70
Post 679794 by stribo on 2014-01-12 11:36:06
[QUOTE=T5frankie;679770]the s70 is lighter than the v70[/QUOTE]
So the sportiest car is also the heaviest lol, but also the stiffest.;)
Post 679798 by graemewelch on 2014-01-12 11:39:44
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679752]I appreciate what you're saying Col. However I don't have a particular power figure in mind. I trust what Hamish has told me about CR & the need for higher lift cams. Only time will tell if that trust is misplaced. The engine builder runs his own autosport engineering firm, with many years based in competitive engine building.
how well this set up is going to work is going to be mostly down to mapping. hope you get it set up how you want it this year as i remember last year didnt go so well as far as the mapping went
Post 679831 by jamesy12345 on 2014-01-12 15:36:12
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;679752]I appreciate what you're saying Col. However I don't have a particular power figure in mind. I trust what Hamish has told me about CR & the need for higher lift cams. Only time will tell if that trust is misplaced. The engine builder runs his own autosport engineering firm, with many years based in competitive engine building.
AFAIK the C70 coupe has a kerbside weight of 1450kg. They aren't heavier than any other Volvo of the same era - if anything they're a bit lighter? Perhaps if I get the time I will get it weighed.[/QUOTE]
My S70 has a kerb weight listed of 1376 kg I think. And the 5 turbo compression ratio is 7:1, that is known for being a bit of an 'on-off' switch as far as power is concerned. But that has a little engine, 1.4 (so the tax is cheap :)). Maybe the 2.3 will get away with it.
Post 679862 by claymore on 2014-01-12 17:08:14
Thing is, the 5 is old school and doesn't have the sophisticated engine management of a more modern car so it needed low compression.
Post 679869 by LiamT4 on 2014-01-12 17:17:52
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;679831]My S70 has a kerb weight listed of 1376 kg I think. And the 5 turbo compression ratio is 7:1, that is known for being a bit of an 'on-off' switch as far as power is concerned. But that has a little engine, 1.4 (so the tax is cheap :)). Maybe the 2.3 will get away with it.[/QUOTE]
The 1376kg is dependent on spec and yours will be over 1400 because of the gearbox and torque converter.
Post 679879 by jamesy12345 on 2014-01-12 17:28:42
[QUOTE=claymore;679862]Thing is, the 5 is old school and doesn't have the sophisticated engine management of a more modern car so it needed low compression.[/QUOTE]
An ancient T3 and mechanical fuel injection for starters!
http://www.5turbo.org/t9309-le-k-jectronic-l-injection
[QUOTE=LiamT4;679869]The 1376kg is dependent on spec and yours will be over 1400 because of the gearbox and torque converter.[/QUOTE]
Could be I was just going off the Parkers site....you wouldn't want it on your foot either way :)
http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/volvo/s70/saloon-1996/12841/
Post 681074 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 01:12:13
There is a bit to go yet but decent progress has been made today.
Well all the engineer shananigans is complete. A lot of work has gone into this engine - but as with all these things most of it is hidden away now. I went to the engineers in Bromsgrove today to help with the timing of the engine (new VVT sprocket). It is a little tricky setting up the VVT cam from scratch. It is difficult to remember how it came apart after 6 months but we got there. I dashed over to HLM to have a peak at VIDA, made a bit more complex finding out that HLM's copy was offline (PC is broken).
Anyway here are some pics now the engine is timed up - shame you can't see half the trick stuff inside.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23526[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23527[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23528[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23529[/ATTACH]
bizarrely things like the idiot sensor switch, the outer cambelt cover, cam position sensor and a few other bits have done a runner.
I have a few gaskets to get hold off. I also need somewhere I can get a tapped drain plug from suitable for the blitz oil temp sensor - [COLOR=#444444][19210] Temp Sensor set - [/COLOR]I have bought. Need a few Euros in my account before I can buy the adaptor from Euro tuning for the [19211] Oil Pressure Sensor
I've purchased the blitz sensors because they integrate into the single display for the blitz I-color - so I don't end up with loads of different gauges. When funds allow I also intend on getting their AFR wideband sensor package.
BTW my engine has been measured and it now has 2320cc. Bore is 81.5, stroke is 89.00 and CR of 7.93.
If anyone would like to help get this engine back from Bromsgrove and help me recover it home - it'd be appreciated as I have limited space in the S40.
Post 681100 by MoleT-5R on 2014-01-17 05:23:54
looking nice dave, does it feel like your getting somewhere now mate ?
Post 681148 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 11:44:31
Yes - all the engineering is finished. I need to bolt all the bits back together, add the new sensors, add the Blitz SBC. Need GWE to fab up my new cat back.
Post 681150 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-01-17 12:30:26
good news dave, keep on it mate
Post 681152 by stribo on 2014-01-17 12:37:10
Looking good, I'm guessing that's a S60R exhaust manifold.Are they more efficient than the Jap ME7 manifolds, as the R is 3-1-1, whereas the Jap is 2-2-1.
Post 681157 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 12:53:22
You'd be guessing correctly then.
I looked at many alternatives including having one fabricated up. In the end this particular manifold was flattened to mate properly with the GTX's T3 housing which is not recessed like the TD04 is.
I have no stats on the relative flow rates for either.
Post 681158 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 12:53:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681074]There is a bit to go yet but decent progress has been made today.
Well all the engineer shananigans is complete. A lot of work has gone into this engine - but as with all these things most of it is hidden away now. I went to the engineers in Bromsgrove today to help with the timing of the engine (new VVT sprocket). It is a little tricky setting up the VVT cam from scratch. It is difficult to remember how it came apart after 6 months but we got there. I dashed over to HLM to have a peak at VIDA, made a bit more complex finding out that HLM's copy was offline (PC is broken).
Anyway here are some pics now the engine is timed up - shame you can't see half the trick stuff inside.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23526[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23527[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23528[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23529[/ATTACH]
bizarrely things like the idiot sensor switch, the outer cambelt cover, cam position sensor and a few other bits have done a runner.
I have a few gaskets to get hold off. I also need somewhere I can get a tapped drain plug from suitable for the blitz oil temp sensor - [COLOR=#444444][19210] Temp Sensor set - [/COLOR]I have bought. Need a few Euros in my account before I can buy the adaptor from Euro tuning for the [19211] Oil Pressure Sensor
I've purchased the blitz sensors because they integrate into the single display for the blitz I-color - so I don't end up with loads of different gauges. When funds allow I also intend on getting their AFR wideband sensor package.
BTW my engine has been measured and it now has 2320cc. Bore is 81.5, stroke is 89.00 and CR of 7.93.
If anyone would like to help get this engine back from Bromsgrove and help me recover it home - it'd be appreciated as I have limited space in the S40.[/QUOTE]
looking good dave. do you need bosses for the sump or drill and tap them just i could do either for you. ive got various bspt taps and a few npt taps adn a lathe to make bosses and a ac welder
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681148]Yes - all the engineering is finished. I need to bolt all the bits back together, add the new sensors, add the Blitz SBC. Need GWE to fab up my new cat back.[/QUOTE]
funny you should mention that ive got a pile of bits here. just waiting on a phone call for the last parts from the laster profilers. then i can crack on.
Post 681160 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 12:55:48
That's good news G. I will be looking for volunteers soon to help me get this engine & gearbox back in.
Post 681162 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 12:58:51
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681160]That's good news G. I will be looking for volunteers soon to help me get this engine & gearbox back in.[/QUOTE]
ill come down and help you. be a day out for me. you any idea when your planning on fitting it. im going on holiday for week on the 27th jan.
Post 681165 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 13:00:07
if im around on the dates ill bring a hoist exhaust jack and tools if need be
Post 681167 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 13:01:49
Engine hoist would be very useful to lift up the car nose. When are you available?
Post 681169 by smithy on 2014-01-17 13:03:48
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681167]Engine hoist would be very useful to lift up the car nose. When are you available?[/QUOTE]
I have a engine hoist mate
Post 681171 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 13:07:06
In that case it may not be necessary for GW to bring his. Can I count on your assistance Carl?
Post 681172 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 13:08:45
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681167]Engine hoist would be very useful to lift up the car nose. When are you available?[/QUOTE]
my trolley jack will get the car up high enough to slide the engine and subframe underneath. then can use the hoist to raise the sub and engine.
Post 681174 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 13:16:36
My jack was only just enough with the cyl. head off - so I have no hope going back in. My plan is to get the chassis rolling again and trailer the whole car to HLM so we can double check it - do all the fluids and gas the A/C & then turn it over for the first time.
Post 681233 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 17:12:05
would i be right in saying about 4-6 hrs work to get the engine and plumbed in. should be just plug and play. i would check it wear it was then then take it some wear to get the mapping sorted. or have you got the use of the ramp at hlm for a few hrs.
Post 681237 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 17:29:44
It should be a bit easier to fit this time because there are no unknown fabrication issues and there is no engine to remove.
Mr Clancy has agreed to help me get the engine back from Bromsgrove. I've even managed to find both the crank & cam position sensors. I won't be firing it up on the driveway.
Post 681239 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 17:39:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681237]It should be a bit easier to fit this time because there are no unknown fabrication issues and there is no engine to remove.
Mr Clancy has agreed to help me get the engine back from Bromsgrove. I've even managed to find both the crank & cam position sensors. I won't be firing it up on the driveway.[/QUOTE]
once bitten twice shy lol. whens the plan to fit it then and ill i make plans to be available. im available weekdays and weekends
Post 681252 by stribo on 2014-01-17 17:59:46
Make sure it's got oil in it. ;)
Post 681346 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-17 21:24:50
[QUOTE=graemewelch;681239]once bitten twice shy lol. whens the plan to fit it then and ill i make plans to be available. im available weekdays and weekends[/QUOTE]
I can't guarantee anything - but weather dependent I should be ready within a week?? I've ordered the cheap adaptor off ebay. Still not sure how to put the temp sensor in - anyone have a link to a tapped sump plug?
Post 681348 by graemewelch on 2014-01-17 21:26:57
so next weekend. i should be able to do that. will need a few days notice though. ill drop you line one day next week to make some arangements
Post 681512 by Jamest5r on 2014-01-18 18:26:13
Just got to fit it now wobbles :)
Post 681557 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-18 20:54:33
Thanks very much today to James for his help.
Post 681561 by stribo on 2014-01-18 20:57:43
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681557]Thanks very much today to James for his help.[/QUOTE]
You could have structured that sentence better. ;)
Post 681562 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-18 21:00:04
I was addressing the forum at large.
Post 681569 by stribo on 2014-01-18 21:08:49
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681562]I was addressing the forum at large.[/QUOTE]
But if you move today to the end of the sentence it will read a lot better. :P
Post 681576 by Jamest5r on 2014-01-18 21:23:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;681557]Thanks very much today to James for his help.[/QUOTE]
Dave your welcome mate :)
Post 682622 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-22 15:20:12
Gaskets & adapters are here. Any considered opinions on the sump plug adapter? Should I put an O ring or copper washer down the hole where the new temp sensor goes. Worried about it leaking. Similarly the pressure sensor goes down as far as you can see in the photo. What should I do to make sure it doesn't leak?
Post 682668 by dant5r on 2014-01-22 18:02:29
Hydraulic loctite, seals the thread and stops it from shaking loose.
Post 682987 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-23 01:46:11
Well its been a good day. Mysteries solved and a few more bits stuck on. Gearbox is on - got the fuel line installed along with the auxiliaries (PAS pump, alternator and AC pump) - starter motor - pretty much everything on the inlet side bar the inlet manifold itself. I still need the main water branch manifold gasket (next to the end of the exhaust manifold before I can bolt anything else to the back, but it wont take long to put the turbo on. Then I need to lift the whole lot onto the subframe.
Post 682988 by JUDGENINJA on 2014-01-23 01:50:42
Nice one Dave... Back out playing very soon...??
Post 682989 by Harvey on 2014-01-23 01:56:18
How much running in is required,what oil grade are you going to be using to run it in ?.
Post 682990 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-23 02:05:32
Engine builder said 500 miles. All the shells have been replaced, but the piston rings are from before. I guess there is less bedding. Not sure about the oil - likely to be quite thin - 5w40?
Post 682996 by V70 Graham on 2014-01-23 06:44:48
Great to see this coming along nicely, glad you still have 'the love' for Betsy.
Post 683001 by Jamest5r on 2014-01-23 07:39:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;682987]Well its been a good day. Mysteries solved and a few more bits stuck on. Gearbox is on - got the fuel line installed along with the auxiliaries (PAS pump, alternator and AC pump) - starter motor - pretty much everything on the inlet side bar the inlet manifold itself. I still need the main water branch manifold gasket (next to the end of the exhaust manifold before I can bolt anything else to the back, but it wont take long to put the turbo on. Then I need to lift the whole lot onto the subframe.[/QUOTE]
Dave why didn't you build it up on the subframe??
Post 683003 by Nealevo on 2014-01-23 07:58:40
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;683001]Dave why didn't you build it up on the subframe??[/QUOTE]
its wobbly!!!!!
Post 683027 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-23 10:24:42
[QUOTE=Nealevo;683003]its wobbly!!!!![/QUOTE]
Nah - my n/d neighbour has an engine hoist so I figured I'd bolt the steering rack back on to the s/f and lift the engine & gearbox etc onto the frame.
Post 683148 by theflyingbrick on 2014-01-23 18:44:19
good news dave looking forward to seeing the fire up vid ;)
Post 683475 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-24 15:49:22
Got my loctite stuff from a local motor factors. New idiot pressure switch and other ancillaries have showed up today. Weather is a bit pants and I missed the gasket for the main water branch (the one by the exhaust manifold) so that may show up tomorrow. The to do list is getting shorter. The weather is a bit pants & the irony is I am working in front of my massive double garage - which is filled with my wife's now acquiesced curtain making business - so no dry work space for me. Not to worry.
Post 683494 by T5frankie on 2014-01-24 16:16:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;683475]Got my loctite stuff from a local motor factors. New idiot pressure switch and other ancillaries have showed up today. Weather is a bit pants and I missed the gasket for the main water branch (the one by the exhaust manifold) so that may show up tomorrow. The to do list is getting shorter. The weather is a bit pants & the irony is I am working in front of my massive double garage - which is filled with my wife's now acquiesced curtain making business - so no dry work space for me. Not to worry.[/QUOTE]
you have a gazebo don't you?
Post 683495 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-24 16:17:36
[QUOTE=T5frankie;683494]you have a gazebo don't you?[/QUOTE]
Not a bad idea
Post 683498 by T5frankie on 2014-01-24 16:19:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;683495]Not a bad idea[/QUOTE]
keep the rain going down your neck anyway, if it doesn't blow away
Post 683500 by M-R-P on 2014-01-24 16:21:38
[QUOTE=T5frankie;683498]keep the rain going down your neck anyway, if it doesn't blow away[/QUOTE]
Just tie it to all the bits of engine laying about :)
Post 683507 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-24 16:30:16
That's the one thing that stops me using it more. I loaned it to my FIL (in welsh Wales) and it was windy and it bent some of the stays. I have spares I need to swap into the frame. TBH that blue thing is getting tired. I need a few patches sewing into the canopy (or a new canopy).
If I do buy another in the future then I'd go for one with CF tubes - for lightness and flexibility in the wind
Post 684292 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 01:34:27
Tricky day - almost ended in tears of frustration. I had to take the already fitted exhaust manifold off because the main water branch doesn't slip underneath. Bit paranoid because last time a year ago (by accident) one of the studs snapped off which led to a whole load of hassle. This time as I was tightening the studs and the lower one on number 2 started to spin. I saw some swarf down the hole. Great I thought - now I am gonna have to get the hole re-engineered - possibly break down all the work I'd done over. Distraught I went out with Erica & my wife for a bit. I later discovered that the wrong stud was being used and it had pulled out some of the thread from the hole in the cylinder head. The stud in question didn't have thread all the way down. I found an alternative stud from when I stripped a different engine a while back. Thankfully there was enough thread deeper in the hole that I was able to secure against. It also happened on another stud at the end by the water inlet. Grrr! I was able to fix that too. After many hours of stressing it was good to get it working. On a brighter note at least I was able to take photos of the custom gasket and porting on the exhaust side. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23617[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23618[/ATTACH]
Post 684293 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 01:55:02
Anyway - back of the engine is finished - turbo is now on, all connected up. Just need to put the inlet manifold on and set the whole lot onto the subframe.
Post 684312 by stribo on 2014-01-26 08:48:27
You didn't expect it to be easy did you?;) Good to see some more progress.
Post 684315 by Biff on 2014-01-26 09:09:50
Happy days Dave! Hope to hear it fire up again & make all your graft worth while.
Bet you really miss it, I've missed mine so much.
Post 684317 by claymore on 2014-01-26 09:14:01
I must have missed it somewhere, what has been done to the exhaust gasket?
Post 684321 by jamesy12345 on 2014-01-26 09:37:13
[QUOTE=claymore;684317]I must have missed it somewhere, what has been done to the exhaust gasket?[/QUOTE]
I heard that the V50 exhaust gasket could be used with some mods?
Post 684322 by claymore on 2014-01-26 09:46:17
[QUOTE=Biff;684315]Happy days Dave! Hope to hear it fire up again & make all your graft worth while.
Bet you really miss it, I've missed mine so much.[/QUOTE]
Yep, you just have to cut one corner off, but that would hardly make it a custom gasket.
Edit:quoted wrong post.
Post 684329 by T5frankie on 2014-01-26 10:06:09
i use the v50 gasket everytime my fanimold comes off
Post 684336 by V70 Graham on 2014-01-26 10:28:55
Glad to see this is moving forward, all the small problems will be worth it when you fire Betsy up again.
Post 684340 by Harvey on 2014-01-26 10:49:28
[QUOTE=claymore;684322]Yep, you just have to cut one corner off, but that would hardly make it a custom gasket.[/QUOTE]
looking at the photos hope Dave did trim it before he went much further with the built sure he would have.
So what is the diffrance from the stock gasket to this one ,I have seen a copper one that is from the states or is it just that's it's in one piece and easy it does look like a sandwich with the spot welds on it
Post 684342 by T5frankie on 2014-01-26 10:54:04
[QUOTE=Harvey;684340]looking at the photos hope Dave did trim it before he went much further with the built sure he would have.
So what is the diffrance from the stock gasket to this one ,I have seen a copper one that is from the states or is it just that's it's in one piece and easy it does look like a sandwich with the spot welds on it[/QUOTE]
the stock gasket comes in pieces and makes it hard to put on when engine is in the car already
Post 684353 by p fandango on 2014-01-26 11:14:01
[QUOTE=claymore;684322]Yep, you just have to cut one corner off, but that would hardly make it a custom gasket.
[/QUOTE]
I didn't had to trim any off mine!
Post 684356 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 11:18:12
[QUOTE=Harvey;684340]looking at the photos hope Dave did trim it before he went much further with the built sure he would have.
So what is the diffrance from the stock gasket to this one ,I have seen a copper one that is from the states or is it just that's it's in one piece and easy it does look like a sandwich with the spot welds on it[/QUOTE] Yes I spotted that just as I offered up the water branch gasket - marked it and trimmed it with a dremmel.
Post 684363 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 11:24:52
[QUOTE=claymore;684322]Yep, you just have to cut one corner off, but that would hardly make it a custom gasket.
Edit:quoted wrong post.[/QUOTE] It was more a surprise as I was expecting to see the regular 5 pieces.
Post 684364 by T5frankie on 2014-01-26 11:25:59
[QUOTE=p fandango;684353]I didn't had to trim any off mine![/QUOTE]
you do on a v50 one as you wont get the gasket on otherwise
Post 684365 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 11:26:00
[QUOTE=stribo;684312]You didn't expect it to be easy did you?;) Good to see some more progress.[/QUOTE] I did begin to wonder when it was going to go wrong. Hopefully this is the only blip!
Post 684366 by T5frankie on 2014-01-26 11:28:46
[QUOTE=claymore;684317]I must have missed it somewhere, what has been done to the exhaust gasket?[/QUOTE]
sarcastic git lol
Post 684368 by p fandango on 2014-01-26 11:29:55
[QUOTE=T5frankie;684364]you do on a v50 one as you wont get the gasket on otherwise[/QUOTE]
I'll check the part number of my one, defo didn't cut it & the turbos on so it fits
Post 684507 by p fandango on 2014-01-26 18:44:21
[QUOTE=T5frankie;684364]you do on a v50 one as you wont get the gasket on otherwise[/QUOTE]
the gasket i got was part number 8699467, one piece & as said didn't cut any & fit straight on
Post 684525 by t5 pete on 2014-01-26 19:42:31
Looking great Dave looking forward to the convoy to York
Post 684533 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 20:12:31
Next technical challenge is to source a speed and RPM signal for the Blitz SBC I-color, wot I bought. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23636[/ATTACH]
Post 684544 by AndysR on 2014-01-26 20:35:01
Nice work Dave it's come along loads since I last visited this thread :)
Post 684551 by WOODY T5 on 2014-01-26 20:43:56
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;684533]Next technical challenge is to source a speed and RPM signal for the Blitz SBC I-color, wot I bought. [ATTACH=CONFIG]23636[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]very good bit of kit the blitz Dave ad mine for 3years now with probs at all.also your build is coming along very nice keep up the good work;)
Post 684553 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 20:51:04
I did my research (and obviously was influenced by your choice). I was also impressed by the integration - that's why I've got the oil temp/pressure sensors to go with it. Dean - where did you tap your signal from & was it RPM &/or speed? I assume it is post ECU?
Post 684576 by WOODY T5 on 2014-01-26 21:24:36
My one the old school dual blitz one Dave only needs a live and earth feed then from the solenoid to actuator very easy to set up
Post 684590 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-01-26 21:30:00
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;684576]My one the old school dual blitz one Dave only needs a live and earth feed then from the solenoid to actuator very easy to set up[/QUOTE]
No worries - my best mate is a bit of a electronics whizz - so with bit of online research & the wiring diagram - I hope to be able to source the right loom. In the words of TG - "How hard can it be?!"
Post 686652 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 00:38:52
good day today - got the engine onto the subframe - finessed the 4 inch (removed a bit more material from the rear engine mount) - the DP is now wrapped. I toyed with getting it coated - a possible mod for the future if I get the tubular manifold. I ordered some VHT sealant in black which I will spray the wrap with once it arrives. Pretty much ready to go with the re-install.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23716[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23717[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23718[/ATTACH]
Apologies for the shaky close-up.
Post 686653 by smithy on 2014-02-03 02:10:40
Nice Dave
Post 686658 by p fandango on 2014-02-03 03:38:06
i'd be tempted to make a bracket/clip to get the coolant pipe off the actuator arm, the last thing you want is the actuator failing to open because its caught on anything
Post 686695 by MoleT-5R on 2014-02-03 09:30:49
If you like dave,I could bring the green thing around for you to drop that engine into and I'll run it in for you and let you know if it's any good mate....lol
Far do's though, that is a nice bit of work you have there, it will be interesting to see what it will achieve on the rollers, strip and track
Post 686697 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-03 10:00:17
All coming together nicely, not long to go now.
Post 686702 by stribo on 2014-02-03 10:11:55
Looking good Dave.
Post 686726 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 12:19:17
[QUOTE=p fandango;686658]i'd be tempted to make a bracket/clip to get the coolant pipe off the actuator arm, the last thing you want is the actuator failing to open because its caught on anything[/QUOTE]
It might look like the water feed is resting on the actuator arm - but in actual fact it isn't. It's close but the movement loci of the arm actually moves it further away.
Post 686728 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 12:27:16
[QUOTE=MoleT5-R;686695]If you like dave,I could bring the green thing around for you to drop that engine into and I'll run it in for you and let you know if it's any good mate....lol
[/QUOTE]
Talk is cheap - you'll need deep pockets.
[QUOTE=MoleT5-R;686695]
Far do's though, that is a nice bit of work you have there, it will be interesting to see what it will achieve on the rollers, strip and track[/QUOTE]
I just hope it stays together this time, as this is the last roll of the dice.
Post 686730 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-02-03 12:45:02
good progress dave, is the powerflex top mount staying? just wondered why it was out of the frame?
Post 686748 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 13:43:05
I was using the hole with a crowbar across the top of the engine between the hoisting loop by the PAS pump, in order to get a better balance point. In an ideal world I would have had one of these...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23730[/ATTACH]
I was able to strap the crowbar in place & move the pick up point (using a lorry strap as a strop) so that it balanced. I was worried that if I put the lorry strap just through the hole that it might put an unwanted sideways pull of the top mount housing. Using the hole in this way means that all the weight is in the vertical plane.
In short yes - the yellow thing is going back in.
I have also uprated the transmission torsion strap with the solid IPD bush - http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5666/113970-polyurethane-transmission-torque-mount-bushing-soft
except I have the harder black one. (courtesy of Mr A. Partington).
Post 686754 by graemewelch on 2014-02-03 14:06:22
How long you rekon to get it all plumbed in. Ive got a plan for coming down but ill give you a bell. Think ive got your number in a old pm
Post 686757 by ExternalError on 2014-02-03 14:20:50
looking good dave cant wait to see it running
Post 686759 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 14:46:18
[QUOTE=graemewelch;686754]How long you rekon to get it all plumbed in. Ive got a plan for coming down but ill give you a bell. Think ive got your number in a old pm[/QUOTE]
The tricky bit is getting the car high enough to slide the engine & subframe under - which is why I was thinking how hard would it be to develop jockey wheels that can be temporarily attached to the frame to aid maneuvering. Either that or roll it under on the legs of the engine hoist I borrowed.
Once in it will probably take 1/2 a day to get it connected. Call me super cautious but I am not planning to start it on my driveway - however this shouldn't stop you being able to do a final fit of the catback.
Post 686772 by graemewelch on 2014-02-03 16:09:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;686759]The tricky bit is getting the car high enough to slide the engine & subframe under - which is why I was thinking how hard would it be to develop jockey wheels that can be temporarily attached to the frame to aid maneuvering. Either that or roll it under on the legs of the engine hoist I borrowed.
Once in it will probably take 1/2 a day to get it connected. Call me super cautious but I am not planning to start it on my driveway - however this shouldn't stop you being able to do a final fit of the catback.[/QUOTE]
Ive got a jack that should sort the height out. Ill bring that a few other bits of tools. Let me if you think of anything i need to bring.
Post 686777 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 16:30:55
Having extra wooden blocks - I have a lot of tools. The extra jack will be useful.
Post 686779 by t5 pete on 2014-02-03 16:37:03
Looking great dave I may consider wrapping the down pipe for the gul while its out
Post 686784 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 16:56:07
I wrapped it using the soaked wrap method. Makes things a bit trickier but now it is dry it feels a lot tighter. In an ideal world I'd have preferred the F1 treatment at Zircotec (but it is 3 times more expensive)
Post 686787 by LiamT4 on 2014-02-03 16:58:36
There's something about that engine that gives it a "serious" look to it, it looks properly put together.
Post 686788 by graemewelch on 2014-02-03 17:00:54
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;686784]I wrapped it using the soaked wrap method. Makes things a bit trickier but now it is dry it feels a lot tighter. In an ideal world I'd have preferred the F1 treatment at Zircotec (but it is 3 times more expensive)[/QUOTE]
Is that a ceramic coating. Id like to get mine done in white
Post 686796 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-03 17:27:37
Zircotec performance white is the coating I looked at. AFAIK white is the only colour choice.
Post 686806 by JT on 2014-02-03 18:09:32
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;686759]The tricky bit is getting the car high enough to slide the engine & subframe under - which is why I was thinking how hard would it be to develop jockey wheels that can be temporarily attached to the frame to aid maneuvering. Either that or roll it under on the legs of the engine hoist I borrowed.[/QUOTE]
looking good Dave:)
fingers crossed for you, I hope this 1 lasts a bit longer, we've had our fair share of failures............
as for the jockey wheels, I would suggest a trolley/platform separate from the subframe
If its not high enough, you will clash with the legs from the hoist.
Post 688820 by M-R-P on 2014-02-11 10:10:46
Good effort there lads, well done :)
Post 688822 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-11 10:26:31
Glad to see you had a productive time, he's not a bad lad that Graeme.
Post 688826 by Nealevo on 2014-02-11 10:44:55
Good effort gentlemen, having met Graeme on Saturday (RR Day) he seemed a top bloke, and this just proves it.
Post 688832 by martybelfastt5 on 2014-02-11 11:02:26
Great update top work and effort
Post 689015 by AndysR on 2014-02-11 22:04:53
Great update and top work by the sounds of things. Glad to see this car in the final stages of rebuild, wouldn't be a VPC 1/4 mile session with WD and Betsy :)
Post 689025 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-11 22:30:29
I tell you - my heart was in my mouth when the bolt in the blind hole started to play up. I was able to save it with a slightly longer bolt that was just able to grab what was left further down the hole. I had visions that the head would need to come off (just a nightmare!!).
Post 689030 by theflyingbrick on 2014-02-11 22:49:54
looking good dave well done mate and credit to gw for putting in some effort as well :D
Post 689032 by artfulflounder on 2014-02-11 22:53:00
Job well done
Post 689040 by graemewelch on 2014-02-11 23:30:02
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;688822]Glad to see you had a productive time, he's not a bad lad that Graeme.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Nealevo;688826]Good effort gentlemen, having met Graeme on Saturday (RR Day) he seemed a top bloke, and this just proves it.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;689030]looking good dave well done mate and credit to gw for putting in some effort as well :D[/QUOTE]
cheers fellas. its just the way im am. ill help anyone if i can. realy looking forward to seeing ths car run in and it was nice of dave to trust me to do some work on his pride and joy. i turned up and for all dave new i might not of had a clue about cars and just talked a good job. so big thanks to dave for trusting me to do some work on his pride and joy.
Post 689043 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-11 23:55:08
Mind? - I was hoping you'd pop up soon & post these. I am slightly embarrassed how bad the paintwork looks and that my tool kit couldn't quite stretch to a warm garage with a 2 post ramp and hot & cold running sockets LOL.
Post 689044 by M-R-P on 2014-02-12 00:20:38
excellent work as always G. :D
Post 689051 by stribo on 2014-02-12 07:08:53
Good to see Betsy with her heart back in, and another example of Graemes's skills.
Post 689059 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-12 08:39:41
Good work Graeme.....after you had your lie in lol
Post 689062 by ExternalError on 2014-02-12 09:29:39
nice to see the SSB all back together can't wait to see it in action
Post 689063 by MoleT-5R on 2014-02-12 09:44:51
excellent work Dave and Graeme, will be interesting to see the results on the strip
Post 689697 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-15 21:29:29
It's all connected! I have a few minor bits, such as the cold air feed to put in.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23783[/ATTACH]
Got to sort out the tax/SORN & put some fluids in it.
Post 689699 by t5 pete on 2014-02-15 21:32:55
Awesome Dave carnt wait to see her back up and running
Post 689701 by stribo on 2014-02-15 21:36:13
Nice one Dave, hoping to give you a bit more competition this year. :)
Post 689702 by Harvey on 2014-02-15 21:36:24
Very nice,so when the big day then ?,looks great.
Post 689708 by WOODY T5 on 2014-02-15 21:51:15
Well done Dave hope she's ok ;)
Post 689722 by Jamest5r on 2014-02-15 23:16:56
:):):)
Post 689731 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-16 07:56:43
Looking good Dave, when are you 'turning the key' ?
Post 689786 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-16 16:40:19
Perhaps this evening. I think I've messed up when buying top up for the gearbox. Halfords have given me dextron 3 which I think IIRC is ATF. I dont think it will effect the 1st key turn as the car is still SORNed.
Post 689789 by stribo on 2014-02-16 16:43:19
Dextron 3 does sound like ATF do Volvo gearboxes not use 75w90?
Post 689790 by siamblue on 2014-02-16 16:45:50
If it was cheap it probably is dex 3 Dave,don't mess it up Dave,get the proper oil in her..
Post 689792 by JT on 2014-02-16 16:52:22
don't do it!!!!!
Post 689794 by graemewelch on 2014-02-16 17:27:11
i paid about £8 a ltr from euro parts. mine took less than 2 ltrs and about 45 mins to fill it
Post 689805 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-16 17:46:48
Don't mess up because your not sure of the oil, better to wait another day mate just to be sure.
Post 689815 by AndysR on 2014-02-16 18:41:54
Great work Dave, fantastic to see this nearly running, gearbox oil is definitely wrong though so don't use it as they've given you autobox oil ;)
Post 689836 by siamblue on 2014-02-16 20:00:37
There's a little bit of auto in all of us,then we see the light :eclipsee_
Post 689837 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-16 20:08:17
[QUOTE=stribo;689789]Dextron 3 does sound like ATF do Volvo gearboxes not use 75w90?[/QUOTE]
On reflection it is wrong, I had a lot on my mind & I will have to wait until tomorrow & take the dextron back. Its annoying as I kept the oil that came out as it was only 6 months old, as such I only wanted a top up. However on a brighter note at least I've been able to get my key fob battery fixed/replaced so I can lock the car!
Post 689877 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-17 01:34:20
Despite the lateness I was tempted to start her up. Got all the fluids in & double checked the unions. I thought the busted jubilee on the PAS pump reservoir feed was going to be my only worry. Sadly no - the main water branch feed to the turbo water inlet, was dripping even before I started. Given that there is minimal clearance & no more spare pipe left the split in the end pretty much puts a hold on it. Either I get another banjo pipe made - with a bit more length or I create a small extension from the branch end. The 2nd option is a bit of a bodge, however access to the 17mm banjo with engine out was tricky enough.
I think I will just have to cut the bad end off - and put a sleeve up it.
Nevermind. If this is the only headache then I think I've come off lightly.
I also don't quite have enough spare coolant to top it up.
Does anyone know what fitting that water feed pipe is going to be? its a 17mm banjo & and if anyone knows where I can get a proper pipe made up in the West Midlands then please let me know.
Post 689992 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-18 01:45:20
So I've fixed up the temp repair on the water turbo feed/main water branch, despite being made into a pin cushion by the end of the steel braiding (if you ain't bleeding you can't be doing it right??!) only to find that the union on the other end is now weeping. Can anyone recommend me a place to get a replacement (although undoing the banjo is going to be tedious). Gonna do it right & once. Never buying 2nd hand turbo parts again. LOL
Post 690400 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 01:54:44
In the beginning.....
[video=youtube;dfe8tCcHnKY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfe8tCcHnKY[/video]
Will add the video tomorrow when it loads - in the meantime here is the music...
Thought I would share with you the 1st key turn. It took a while to put the new turbo water hose in, which I got made up at Pirtek for the princely sum of 20 pounds.
So far so good - no leaks - hunts like bitch on idle and the PAS is notchy, but I expect that will die down soon enough, I hope.
Feeling some what relieved and feeling pleased.
Now the real work can begin (assuming I can find my insurance cert. & MOT cert. where ever they disappeared to). Let the De-SORNing commence.
Post 690404 by T5frankie on 2014-02-20 05:51:10
Well done David, happy for you mate, wish I could get my v70 done so I can get on with the 850
Post 690407 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-20 06:04:13
Well done Dave, looking forward to the video.
Post 690412 by Nealevo on 2014-02-20 07:15:32
yipeeeeee, congrats Mr Dave, that first turn of the key is a little bit nerve wrecking..
Post 690415 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 07:52:52
Dave you bloody tease!
Well done mate, bet you're like a pig in poo... :)
Post 690418 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 08:40:33
Probably overly long but I got carried away with checking things.
"Fingers crossed" - famous last words
[video=youtube;z1F51Vbjt0Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1F51Vbjt0Q[/video]
Post 690420 by Jamest5r on 2014-02-20 08:48:12
Happy days Dave, now get it mapped properly :)
Post 690421 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 08:48:28
Aah, the rhythmic groan of ME7 going "WTF?"
Mine was doing something very similar straight after the remap.
Running though, that's the important bit sorted :)
Post 690424 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 08:56:43
[QUOTE=M-R-P;690421]Aah, the rhythmic groan of ME7 going "WTF?"
Mine was doing something very similar straight after the remap.
Running though, that's the important bit sorted :)[/QUOTE]
ME7 WTF indeed LMAO. But the map adaption needs to kick in & it will probably clear up once driven. I accept a certain amount of uneveness as I am running way outside usual parameters.
Running & not leaking. I've left the cardboard underneath all night (I check it later), but could not see any weeping from any of the unions & once the heatwrap around the DP had stopped smoking & the water temp came up - gave a few tickles on the loud pedal & she sounds OK.
Post 690425 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 09:00:01
How does GWE's mod sound? or can't you tell properly yet?
Post 690428 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 09:38:16
[QUOTE=M-R-P;690425]How does GWE's mod sound? or can't you tell properly yet?[/QUOTE]
Throaty! I'll do an up the tailpipe vid later.
Post 690429 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 09:39:28
"throaty" and "up the tailpipe"...
Sounds like something for the over 18s section :hilarious
Post 690430 by JamesT5 on 2014-02-20 09:54:30
Nice one Dave, glad to see it's up and running again. I noticed the smoke from the Turbo at the end of the video, that looked like my car yesterday when I sprayed WD40 on my actuator rod! :D
Will you have to remap it from scratch or will it just need a tweak at HLM? By the way, I love your comment "It idles like an absolute pig", made me chuckle.... :hilarious :D
Post 690434 by WOODY T5 on 2014-02-20 10:30:30
well done dave sounds very nice now get it mapping done right ;)
Post 690441 by jdavis on 2014-02-20 10:51:57
Well done Dave!
Post 690442 by stribo on 2014-02-20 10:54:51
Great to hear it's running, I'll check the vids out when I get home.
Post 690445 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-02-20 10:57:09
almost there dave.
Post 690452 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 12:06:38
[QUOTE=JamesT5;690430]Nice one Dave, glad to see it's up and running again. I noticed the smoke from the Turbo at the end of the video, that looked like my car yesterday when I sprayed WD40 on my actuator rod! :D
Will you have to remap it from scratch or will it just need a tweak at HLM? By the way, I love your comment "It idles like an absolute pig", made me chuckle.... :hilarious :D[/QUOTE]
I wrapped the dp & I am certain it was just a bit of oil & grease burning off - it disappeared later. As for the map I think it will all need sorting out. New head & different compression & to make the most of the head mods.
Partial throttle may also need tweaking to see if we can settle the idle out.
Post 690453 by graemewelch on 2014-02-20 12:15:04
great to see it running, well done. if anything that ive done needs tweaking just give me a shout and well sort sumit. the conditions wernt great when we wear working on the car so if ive missed anything or you think somthing can be improved give me a shout and well get it sorted. hopfully it wont but i thought id mention it just incase
Post 690464 by martybelfastt5 on 2014-02-20 14:01:17
exellent!
Post 690467 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 14:57:07
Showed Ellen, the engine start. Betsy promptly dumped her fuel line on the ground. Ellen said "there's a gushing noise". Hopefully it will stay put now?
My NDN who is a mechanic heard the noise & came to look. He said - that's your MAF sensor (referring to the pig aweful idling). How can that be - the darn thing is genuine Bosch & less than 1 year old. So we unplugged it. And low and behold - idles straight as a pin.
Luckily - I had a spare in the shed. So we switched it and low and behold...
[video=youtube;7Ja-C6k0bUw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ja-C6k0bUw[/video]
Post 690471 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 15:40:27
nom nom :)
Post 690473 by ExternalError on 2014-02-20 15:44:51
very nice wobbly can't wait to see it in person
Post 690475 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-20 15:49:17
VERY nice.
Post 690478 by T5frankie on 2014-02-20 16:29:48
its gonna be a long 1000 miles lol
Post 690481 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 16:33:37
500 as I am not bedding in the piston rings - just the shells. That's 2 tank fulls. I feel a Southern Softies meet coming on.
Post 690483 by graemewelch on 2014-02-20 16:36:43
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;690481]500 as I am not bedding in the piston rings - just the shells. That's 2 tank fulls. I feel a Southern Softies meet coming on.[/QUOTE]
2 tanks. i get just under 500 mile out of a tank if i drive sensible.
Post 690484 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 16:39:45
Normally I get about 350 - 400. PB was 460. So more like 1.5 tanks.
Post 690487 by M-R-P on 2014-02-20 16:58:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;690481]500 as I am not bedding in the piston rings - just the shells. That's 2 tank fulls. I feel a Southern Softies meet coming on.[/QUOTE]
This Sunday Dave if you can make it :B_thumb:
Post 690490 by siamblue on 2014-02-20 17:33:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;690481]500 as I am not bedding in the piston rings - just the shells. That's 2 tank fulls. I feel a Southern Softies meet coming on.[/QUOTE]
Might jump on the bike and come down as well.well done Dave..
Post 690501 by smithy on 2014-02-20 18:59:30
Your car sounds nice Dave weldone
Post 690504 by LiamT4 on 2014-02-20 19:08:43
Well done dave. The exhaust looks very understated..........doesn't sound understated though lol
Post 690509 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 19:20:49
TBH I wasnt sure which tip to have. I think understated works.
I found my newer V5 today, whilst hunting for MOT (found) and Insurance (not found) so I was able to apply for my Tax disc online!
I might run her around the block!
Post 690512 by Jamest5r on 2014-02-20 19:29:29
How much running in need on the 2nd build?
Post 690513 by JT on 2014-02-20 19:34:19
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;690512]How much running in need on the 2nd build?[/QUOTE]
surely if it needs running in............it needs running in??????
500 min
Post 690514 by munster732 on 2014-02-20 19:41:03
superb news Dave, so pleased you 're getting there.
Post 690575 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-20 23:58:30
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;690512]How much running in need on the 2nd build?[/QUOTE]
Minimum 500 miles was what MJA, my engine builders said. Clock currently reads 171504 - somewhere in the 172K should do it.
Post 690678 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-21 15:09:49
Well a bit more news. I finally got TORQUE onto my Samsung GN3 and was able to read the codes. I cleared them & they came back immediately.
MAF sensor low circuit
Injector #5 low circuit
Now we'd put in the MAF which I believed was faulty. Car reverts to a default if the MAF is disconnected (or busted).
I found that the plug on injector #5 & then later #2 was not quite on properly. I swapped back the MAF from yesterday & initially it was lumpy but calmed down. Most importantly I have no codes & no EM light.
Got issues with my first test drive - brakes were not particularly good and I can't hillstart up anything with a gradient.
I think I am going to run her gently the 50 miles to HLM and leave it there for more tests/fettling
Post 691518 by GregE102 on 2014-02-24 20:22:12
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;690678]Well a bit more news. I finally got TORQUE onto my Samsung GN3 and was able to read the codes. I cleared them & they came back immediately.
MAF sensor low circuit
Injector #5 low circuit
Now we'd put in the MAF which I believed was faulty. Car reverts to a default if the MAF is disconnected (or busted).
I found that the plug on injector #5 & then later #2 was not quite on properly. I swapped back the MAF from yesterday & initially it was lumpy but calmed down. Most importantly I have no codes & no EM light.
Got issues with my first test drive - brakes were not particularly good and I can't hillstart up anything with a gradient.
I think I am going to run her gently the 50 miles to HLM and leave it there for more tests/fettling[/QUOTE]
Glad your up and running again Dave!
Post 691582 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-02-25 00:47:21
Well the run over to HLM was actually really good - all the fears about hill start/lack of power disappeared as Betsy found her feet again. Idles well & just seems really well. Hamish will double check it all. Only slight niggle was a vibration/rattle coming through at tickover & it may be a slight adjustment needed with the dp/ or new exhaust.
Post 691584 by smithy on 2014-02-25 01:12:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;691582]Well the run over to HLM was actually really good - all the fears about hill start/lack of power disappeared as Betsy found her feet again. Idles well & just seems really well. Hamish will double check it all. Only slight niggle was a vibration/rattle coming through at tickover & it may be a slight adjustment needed with the dp/ or new exhaust.[/QUOTE]
I'm glad everything is going well mate
Post 691599 by lance on 2014-02-25 07:38:46
Sounding positive, hope alls better and stays together this time
Post 691608 by V70 Graham on 2014-02-25 08:49:58
[QUOTE=smithy;691584]I'm glad everything is going well mate[/QUOTE]
Likewise, keep us all up to date.
Post 691610 by Jamest5r on 2014-02-25 09:07:57
Top result Dave :)
Post 696530 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-20 16:32:10
There have been many ups and downs since taking the C70 over to HLM for them to shake it down. The radiator gave out, so I had to get a new one. A few loose jubilees on the water circuit, plus I didnt quite tighten up the oil filter housing causing a minor oil slick on the workroom floor.
I think I found the final oil leak today - missing bolt from the cam cover - but with a fair wind I think we are getting there. Glad to have the car back home now, though I still get the feeling the ECU is still trying to fathom out WTF happened over the last 6 months - a few codes appeared today along with an intermittant rough idle.
[COLOR=#333333][FONT=ProximaNova-Regular]P0140 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 )
[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#333333][FONT=ProximaNova-Regular]P0014 - B Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1[/FONT][/COLOR]
I replaced the VVT unit with a brand new one, when we put the cambelt on - and she decided to have an allergic reaction, throwing http://www.obd-codes.com/p0014 but it didn't persist for very long - cleared itself - so I am not 100% sure what that meant. Going to keep a close eye on that - perhaps the solenoid itself it suspect?
If it continues to appear I will have to see if Colin will lend me the cam lock tools so I can double check the timing.
I am off to see Graeme for final finsihing on the 3 inch cat back this Saturday - first proper long run out. Just hope everything stays in one piece.
Post 696532 by JUDGENINJA on 2014-03-20 16:38:01
Good luck... Sounds like you're beginning to enjoy the fruits of your labours..
Post 696533 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-20 16:47:34
Still feel a little edgy towards it. I still need to install the electronics for reading the oil pressure & temp. Its always the little pieces e.g. copper washers or some random auxiliary system that gives me the grief.
Don't get me wrong, getting it back is a major achievement & I was very happy last night, but I have this nagging doubt it's all going to blow up in a minute.
Post 696534 by Storm-Troll on 2014-03-20 16:51:07
chop chop Wobbles.... get it back on the road :)
Post 696538 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-20 17:06:22
It is back on the road (it doesn't have wings) & where did you spring from?
Post 696544 by claymore on 2014-03-20 17:30:55
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;696533]Still feel a little edgy towards it. I still need to install the electronics for reading the oil pressure & temp. Its always the little pieces e.g. copper washers or some random auxiliary system that gives me the grief.
Don't get me wrong, getting it back is a major achievement & I was very happy last night, but I have this nagging doubt it's all going to blow up in a minute.[/QUOTE]
Yep, I know that feeling only too well, you will gradually forget about every little sound the more you use it. :)
Post 696545 by MoleT-5R on 2014-03-20 17:31:30
Just take it gently and one step at time and it will bare all the fruits you want it to, It's been a while but good to hear Betsy is treading the tarmac once more, good job Dave.
Post 696550 by Storm-Troll on 2014-03-20 18:04:48
oh I have been away to The Planet Troll. but thought it about time I returned lol.!!!
Post 696552 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-20 18:11:41
[QUOTE=Storm-Troll;696550]oh I have been away to The Planet Troll. but thought it about time I returned lol.!!![/QUOTE]
How is your C70 these days. Still behaving itself?
Post 696560 by S70T5Chris on 2014-03-20 18:26:15
Wanna sell the Miltek yet?!
Post 696561 by Storm-Troll on 2014-03-20 18:26:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;696552]How is your C70 these days. Still behaving itself?[/QUOTE]
Perfectly Mate. Enjoying having the roof down with this good weather. Just about to buy some 19" black alloys then the Heico Exhaust goes on. :)
Post 696563 by V70 Graham on 2014-03-20 18:45:14
Glad to hear she's running and you have her back, hopefully onwards and upwards now, I'm sure those minor niggles will all be ironed out.
Post 696565 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-20 18:58:31
[QUOTE=Storm-Troll;696561]Perfectly Mate. Enjoying having the roof down with this good weather. Just about to buy some 19" black alloys then the Heico Exhaust goes on. :)[/QUOTE]
Are you going to get the rear diffuser?
Post 696566 by theflyingbrick on 2014-03-20 18:59:31
brilliant news dave well done mate :)
Post 696601 by stribo on 2014-03-20 19:53:21
Glad it's not going too bad, did you go for a standard rad? as I'm sure my do88 one must give me an extra 10 bhp. lol
Post 696666 by Brett855tdi on 2014-03-20 23:34:45
Looking good Dave
Post 696668 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-21 00:45:45
[QUOTE=stribo;696601]Glad it's not going too bad, did you go for a standard rad? as I'm sure my do88 one must give me an extra 10 bhp. lol[/QUOTE]
Coolant temp is bang on 90 degrees. HLM pressurised it to 1.5bar and left it for an hour - with no losses. I am pretty confident I have that bit covered.
last oil leak seems ok. Levels on my 80 mile round trip to see friends in Brum was uneventful though the P0014 code keeps re-occuring. I have ordered a new VVT solenoid. Should be with me by Monday.
Post 696680 by stribo on 2014-03-21 06:48:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;696668]Coolant temp is bang on 90 degrees. HLM pressurised it to 1.5bar and left it for an hour - with no losses. I am pretty confident I have that bit covered.
last oil leak seems ok. Levels on my 80 mile round trip to see friends in Brum was uneventful though the P0014 code keeps re-occuring. I have ordered a new VVT solenoid. Should be with me by Monday.[/QUOTE]
You should have said, I have a VVT solenoid, that I bought for the R, but it was the wrong one.
Post 696702 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-21 09:55:17
I can always send the new one back, if I don't open the packaging.
Post 696703 by stribo on 2014-03-21 10:04:12
PM me your address, and I'll send it up to you.
Post 696705 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-21 11:01:49
I am grateful for this assistance.
Post 696708 by graemewelch on 2014-03-21 12:45:00
is there a chance the vvc hasnt been set right. id be checking that first befor spending your hard earned
Post 696725 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-21 15:43:38
It should have been - I've done it enough times now & I was there when it was done. New bolt, new VVT hub. Only old thing is the solenoid. I am going to change the solenoid first as it is relatively easy to do.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24160[/ATTACH]
However I may ask to borrow Colin's cam locking kit if the new solenoid doesn't solve it.
Post 696740 by claymore on 2014-03-21 17:56:53
No problem mate, I told you it would be best for you to hang on to it....lol
Post 696741 by Storm-Troll on 2014-03-21 18:04:22
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;696565]Are you going to get the rear diffuser?[/QUOTE]
Im looking into it. I emailed Heico about the price etc as they dont have prices for it on their website but thatwas a week ago and they still have not replied... from what I can find out so far its over £1000 and thats only the back quarter and the diffuser. so might be a tad expensive but we will see :uglyhamme
Post 696755 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-21 21:01:39
[QUOTE=Storm-Troll;696741]Im looking into it. I emailed Heico about the price etc as they dont have prices for it on their website but thatwas a week ago and they still have not replied... from what I can find out so far its over £1000 and thats only the back quarter and the diffuser. so might be a tad expensive but we will see :uglyhamme[/QUOTE]
Yeah but it looks soooo coool!!
Post 697010 by graemewelch on 2014-03-22 20:52:28
Well dave turned up today. First time ive heard the exhaust in person and i have to say it sounds awsome. The whole car dose. Inside the car you can hardly tell its got a 3" turbo back system but outside the burble is awsome. Big thanks today to dave for putting up anal crap and taking up most of his day
Post 697030 by stribo on 2014-03-22 21:14:29
[QUOTE=Storm-Troll;696741]Im looking into it. I emailed Heico about the price etc as they dont have prices for it on their website but thatwas a week ago and they still have not replied... from what I can find out so far its over £1000 and thats only the back quarter and the diffuser. so might be a tad expensive but we will see :uglyhamme[/QUOTE]
Sorry to go off topic, but are there any pics/links to said diffuser?
Post 697031 by stribo on 2014-03-22 21:15:48
[QUOTE=graemewelch;697010]Well dave turned up today. First time ive heard the exhaust in person and i have to say it sounds awsome. The whole car dose. Inside the car you can hardly tell its got a 3" turbo back system but outside the burble is awsome. [COLOR="#FF0000"] Big thanks today to dave for putting up anal crap and taking up most of his day[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
What you two get up to together is best kept to yourselves. ;)
Post 697063 by AndysR on 2014-03-22 21:53:05
How did I miss this! Great to hear it's up and running again, be good to see it out and about this year :)
Post 697080 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-22 22:45:04
[QUOTE=AndysR;697063]How did I miss this! Great to hear it's up and running again, be good to see it out and about this year :)[/QUOTE]
All things being equal I plan to get to the next southern softies meeting.
Thanks to GW for all his hard work today. Can't be easy with the next orthopod operation looming.
As for the anal thing - we both share an eye for detail and seek perfection. I appreciate all that he's done today.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24177[/ATTACH]
Post 697084 by graemewelch on 2014-03-22 22:50:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;697080]All things being equal I plan to get to the next southern softies meeting.
Thanks to GW for all his hard work today. Can't be easy with the next orthopod operation looming.
As for the anal thing - we both share an eye for detail and seek perfection. I appreciate all that he's done today.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24177[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
its a epic car and i cant wait to see its full potental. i hope the journey home wasnt to bad. i just love the sound of that recirc valve.
Post 697086 by stribo on 2014-03-22 22:50:55
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;697080]All things being equal I plan to get to the next southern softies meeting.
Thanks to GW for all his hard work today. Can't be easy with the next orthopod operation looming.
As for the anal thing - we both share an eye for detail and seek perfection. I appreciate all that he's done today.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24177[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
I'd imagine it would be hard for Graeme working on a hairdresser's car that is so much quicker than his. ;)
Post 697091 by graemewelch on 2014-03-22 22:59:01
[QUOTE=stribo;697086]I'd imagine it would be hard for Graeme working on a hairdresser's car that is so much quicker than his. ;)[/QUOTE]
i stuffed a bug in the middle silencer to make sure it slower than mine.
the way this car revs once all the T's are crosses and the I's are dotted its going to be a reet weapon. the way it revs from idle to redline is unreal. maybe ill be lucky enough to race dave up the strip at york later this year
Post 697093 by MoleT-5R on 2014-03-22 23:03:29
[QUOTE=stribo;697086]I'd imagine it would be hard for Graeme working on a hairdresser's car that is so much quicker than his. ;)[/QUOTE]
so funny mr stribo, but you'll have to make yours that quick, before you can take the p!ss, I bow down to wd power but different budgets will give different routes to the same end goal, but we all know we can do it on a shoestring, proving it is the next milestone and we will do it, the underdogs route to power will unfold soon ....
Post 697099 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-22 23:16:25
I look forward to the challenge. - Steve BTW this is the C70 C/C with the Heico rear diffuser fitted.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24178[/ATTACH]
I wish they'd do one for mine.
Post 697133 by ExternalError on 2014-03-23 04:39:54
[QUOTE=MoleT5-R;697093]so funny mr stribo, but you'll have to make yours that quick, before you can take the p!ss, I bow down to wd power but different budgets will give different routes to the same end goal, but we all know we can do it on a shoestring, proving it is the next milestone and we will do it, the underdogs route to power will unfold soon ....[/QUOTE]
when claymore works out his 2 engine build
must say there are 2 cars on this forum that i really would like a ride along with 1 is claymore when he gets his dual engine build up and running because one engine was a beast the other is daves.
Post 697141 by stribo on 2014-03-23 07:59:16
[QUOTE=MoleT5-R;697093]so funny mr stribo, but you'll have to make yours that quick, before you can take the p!ss, I bow down to wd power but different budgets will give different routes to the same end goal, but we all know we can do it on a shoestring, proving it is the next milestone and we will do it, the underdogs route to power will unfold soon ....[/QUOTE]
I'm taking the pee out of Graeme, not WD, as he likes to remind me at every opportunity that the the C70 is a hairdresser's car.
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;697099]I look forward to the challenge. - Steve BTW this is the C70 C/C with the Heico rear diffuser fitted.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24178[/ATTACH]
I wish they'd do one for mine.[/QUOTE]
That looks lovely. :D
Post 697145 by siamblue on 2014-03-23 08:54:31
I thought only the cab's were the HD cars? that pic does look nice though.
Post 697232 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-23 16:37:34
[QUOTE=ExternalError;697133]when claymore works out his 2 engine build
must say there are 2 cars on this forum that i really would like a ride along with 1 is claymore when he gets his dual engine build up and running because one engine was a beast the other is daves.[/QUOTE]
Certainly next time we go to the 2 Henry's - I will try to ensure you get a ride.
Post 697234 by rikcougar on 2014-03-23 16:46:35
Good to see it is finally coming together Dave
Hope to see it at a meet this year
Post 697249 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-23 17:02:48
Another milestone achieved today - first oil change after 500 miles.
Post 697258 by rikcougar on 2014-03-23 17:31:43
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;697249]Another milestone achieved today - first oil change after 500 miles.[/QUOTE]
It`s a great feeling Dave, went through the same process with my Cossie engine
Now on 2100 miles without fault
Here`s to a the next oil change :beer:
Post 697307 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-03-23 20:26:55
I did have a little help.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24199[/ATTACH]
Post 698855 by c70geoff on 2014-03-28 22:34:02
That rear diffuser looks the danglys
This is why I'm in the hunt for something
Got myself an rx8 rear bumper to chop and see but need to find more ideas
Hats off to you Dave if you get that and blend into your already stunning car
Post 698884 by jamesy12345 on 2014-03-29 04:31:03
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;697307]I did have a little help.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24199[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
You are setting her future expectations of car engines very high!!
Post 700971 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-05 00:30:16
More work at HLM occurred today. Ongoing parts tally continues to mount up. A leaky/holed outer CV gator on the O/S was replaced. The ball joint had a damaged boot on it and was worn so I replaced the lower arm. The bottom engine mount (by the crank pulley) was replaced to try to stop the off-power clunk which has becoming more noticeable.
Despite GW's best efforts the DP is still resting on the ARB. I think we may need to tack the V-band or create a key way to stop it rotating down?
Most disturbingly, despite all our efforts - the "clunk" appears to be coming from inside the quaiffe modified M56 itself. The clunk is characteristed by a single mechanical noise, when the throttle is released at low speed or when engaging reverse (recreated on the ramp by jabbing the clutch in reverse, when holding the car on the handbrake).
At the moment I plan to seek advice from the people who installed the quaiffe in 2011 & take action from there.
On the plus side - I've never felt in 10 years a T5 engine like it.
If the gearbox appears to be a life-limiting factor for this project then despite what I said - I can't bring myself to give up.
The Blitz SBC is in - but missing the RPM signal - so at the moment is just running as an aux gauge - for oil pressure, temp & boost. The SBC unit itself is not yet controlling the boost.
Part of me thinks that just putting in a boggo M56 without the LSD is the way out? Is fitting an LSD a step too far for the gearbox?? If I refit then this would be my 4th gearbox in as many years.
Yes I am in a bit of a flap about it. I think I write this as much to vent my frustration.
Maybe I just throw it down the track next Sunday & see what happens?
Post 700973 by smithy on 2014-04-05 02:06:44
Stick a standard box in and see if the clunk goes away or it might be dmf .just an idea that's all.as long as the fueling is fine then have some fun with it for a change .just make sure the mapping is right that's all and don't run high boost if it is not mapped right .
Post 700979 by stribo on 2014-04-05 07:56:32
A standard diff will do your times no favours at all. How about a M66 with LSD?
Post 701016 by graemewelch on 2014-04-05 10:47:50
Cant beleve that v band has moved again. Maybe a extra mount/hanger is the soloution
Post 701083 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-05 16:13:02
Might look to see if I can raise it & lock it off a bit better
Post 701512 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-06 22:08:50
Good News -
Blitz SBC speed sensor signal is calibrated & working.
Blitz Oil Pressure & Temp are working - these are the separate sensors I bought.
Bad News -
Still not managed to find a tacho signal that will directly interface into the SBC unit - however I think there may be 1 or 2 ways out of that.
Gearbox clunks - need to seek advice of a specialist.
Tial T-piece keeps blowing off - need GW to make a top pipe with the Tial flange welded in place - though I may have to get one made up locally, because of GW's availability (get well soon!)
DP clearance over the ARB is still to be sorted.
Post 701926 by AndysR on 2014-04-08 20:03:11
Getting there Dave, good to read your update. Fingers crossed the gearbox issue is easily resolved :)
Post 702044 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-09 00:23:58
I think Andy must have the golden touch or something. Can you pick my lottery numbers too?
I was feeling a bit down about it all so I thought I spend 30 minutes faffing around to see if I could get the DP & the ARB to stop loving each other quite so much. Maybe muggins 'ere didn't tighten up the V-band clamp but it was possible just by pushing upwards to get the 2 separated. I then tightened the V-band up TAF
I wiggled & jiggled the flexi & cat as much as possible & it didn't fall down as it had before.
Just in case I strapped a piece of water pipe which I cut down the side in a spiral (like the inner tube of a loo roll) to let it sit on the ARB and cable-tied it on (I learned from the master).
I went for a short run and you'll never guess what - only the "gearbox" clunk has vanished. I will confirm tomorrow but perhaps after all the heartache this gearbox is still OK??? WTF!! Usually clunks coming from my stupid top mounts (its the only thing left I haven't changed yet) but other than that it was pretty silent.
I can't tell you how relieved I am. If this gets the all clear then I will dyno Friday if I can get a slot to check my AFRs and Sunday shakedown at Avon.
Its not all shaken down yet & its a long way off the final finished product but there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Going to send a letter to Rome to get Andy beatified LOL
Post 702047 by Harvey on 2014-04-09 00:27:41
Hope the noise is now gone & turns out to be this easy.
Post 702109 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-09 16:40:10
Spoke to soon - went out for another run & the clunk is back again.
On a brighter note the dp seems to be holding in position.
Post 702119 by Jamest5r on 2014-04-09 17:00:14
I say just go with it for the moment Dave, get it running well and if the box goes bang so be it.
Post 702135 by T5frankie on 2014-04-09 19:18:40
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;702044]I think Andy must have the golden touch or something. Can you pick my lottery numbers too?
I was feeling a bit down about it all so I thought I spend 30 minutes faffing around to see if I could get the DP & the ARB to stop loving each other quite so much. Maybe muggins 'ere didn't tighten up the V-band clamp but it was possible just by pushing upwards to get the 2 separated. I then tightened the V-band up TAF
I wiggled & jiggled the flexi & cat as much as possible & it didn't fall down as it had before.
Just in case I strapped a piece of water pipe which I cut down the side in a spiral (like the inner tube of a loo roll) to let it sit on the ARB and cable-tied it on (I learned from the master).
I went for a short run and you'll never guess what - only the "gearbox" clunk has vanished. I will confirm tomorrow but perhaps after all the heartache this gearbox is still OK??? WTF!! Usually clunks coming from my stupid top mounts (its the only thing left I haven't changed yet) but other than that it was pretty silent.
I can't tell you how relieved I am. If this gets the all clear then I will dyno Friday if I can get a slot to check my AFRs and Sunday shakedown at Avon.
Its not all shaken down yet & its a long way off the final finished product but there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Going to send a letter to Rome to get Andy beatified LOL[/QUOTE]
i may make a trip to avon just to watch you and jim battle it out
Post 702315 by Jamest5r on 2014-04-10 12:58:37
[QUOTE=T5frankie;702135]i may make a trip to avon just to watch you and jim battle it out[/QUOTE]
Want revenge over you as well you've kicked my ass enough times lol
Post 703162 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-13 21:50:19
Spent my day trying to fix a few things. The top mounts have been bothering me for a while - so I bought some IPD H/D ones from PFV. OS came apart quite easily and I borrowed a set of spring clamps from next door. Without my snap-on rattle gun I think this would have been much more challenging. So that went together quite nicely. Indeed there was a crack almost all the way around the central bush. The NS was a different story. The top bolt in the hub sheered in half. Also found that the top bearing was completely FUBAR. So I gave up at that point. Need to order a new seatbelt assembly, top mount bearing and knuckle bolt. This car's still putting up a fight. Condition of the bilsteins is fair - not as stiff as I would prefer. They were new in Aug 2009. I may have to save up and get some more/or something different. I have managed to fix my flaky OS HID and hidden the ballast inside the ECU box.
Post 703170 by T5frankie on 2014-04-13 22:07:57
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;702315]Want revenge over you as well you've kicked my ass enough times lol[/QUOTE]
lol only just seen this, you may do one year lol
Post 703425 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-14 21:17:56
Phoned Bilstein - they are chasing the new camber bolt down. I just used a standard one for now. Got a new top mount bearing from Eurocar parts for 30 quid.
Rocking the car side to side - still can't get rid of the clunking from the suspension. Guess I'll have to look at the ARB bushes, again.
New seatbelt will be a week travelling by road from Sweden (can't be flown because it has "explosives"). Given I plan to keep the car for the foreseable future & the youngest 2nd hand part will be 12 years old I think I can justify the 250 quid it cost.
Post 703428 by stribo on 2014-04-14 21:28:29
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;703425]Phoned Bilstein - they are chasing the new camber bolt down. I just used a standard one for now. Got a new top mount bearing from Eurocar parts for 30 quid.
Rocking the car side to side - still can't get rid of the clunking from the suspension. Guess I'll have to look at the ARB bushes, again.
New seatbelt will be a week travelling by road from Sweden (can't be flown because it has "explosives"). Given I plan to keep the car for the foreseable future & the youngest 2nd hand part will be 12 years old I think I can justify the 250 quid it cost.[/QUOTE]
Just a thought, have you checked the subframe bushes, or changed them, as I'm guessing it's been off a few times. If you want a really clonky car fit coilovers, as my ali top spring cups knock against the top mounts constantly. :(
Post 703429 by graemewelch on 2014-04-14 21:28:34
might be somthing else for your car coming your way on friday. if you can pm me your address ill do my best to get it to you for friday. if not itll be monday
Post 703463 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-14 22:09:50
Super - I've been looking forward to it. Can't go very far until the seatbelt arrives.
Post 703501 by AndysR on 2014-04-15 00:08:24
Be interesting to see if you notice the difference with the upgraded top mounts :)
Post 703504 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-04-15 00:21:22
I just hope they're longer lasting than most IPD stuff. I imported the repair kit (new bushes) from IPD USA maybe 3 years ago & I am convinced that this is where the remaining clunk is coming from.
Post 712323 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-16 23:17:47
I finished late on Weds (about 2:30 am) sorting out the last few pieces on the Blitz SBC & I have a tacho signal I can use, but in the end I didn't really need it, although I may look to utilise it more fully later. More of that in a bit.
Firstly I built this out of SS cable ties & then attached the aluminium honeycomb (imported from the US in the end, via ebay) into the 4 inch MAF housing.
I was very determined to be 100% sure there was no risk of it being ingested, so it is glued, pop riveted it. I am chuffed with my own ingenuity as SS cable ties offer no air resistance but there is no way that the honeycomb can buckle. Sadly the glue was complete pain to use so was not as neat as I would have liked.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25142[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25143[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25144[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25145[/ATTACH]
Post 712325 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-16 23:23:07
Nice work Dave, I'm impressed with the SS cable tie set up.
Post 712327 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-16 23:44:24
Anyway more important than the new air straightener/ MAF screen was the dyno result. Well finally after 8 years of development (2.5 on the GTX turbo) she made 404 bhp crank (376 bhp with 500Nm @wheels) - running 1.7 bar. Peak IAT was 49 degrees. Ambient 20 degrees.
Started on just actuator pressure which peaked at 1.5 without any input from the Blitz SBC.
We tried 1.75 bar but it made less power. It is mind-bendingly fast. Just how well this will translate on the drag strip is anyones guess, but I am very pleased. Curve is a good shape. Holds AFR about 12.5 without any knock.
Hamish some months ago said that if my car made 400 he'd eat his workboots. Today I said "how would you like those done sir?". Apparently bar the RS Focus - its the most powerful T5 that's ever run on that dyno. We did about 10 runs but this is the best. Sorry but the WINPEP7 on my machine doesn't show crank figs.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25146[/ATTACH]
Looking forward to York immensely.
Sounds quite good?
[video=youtube;1Kc7zyr9KLc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kc7zyr9KLc[/video]
Post 712329 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 00:01:40
Still carnt drive it tho lol
Post 712330 by smithy on 2014-05-17 00:04:05
Weldone Dave and yes it does sound good
Post 712333 by Biff on 2014-05-17 00:46:00
That's very impressive Dave & well done for persisting with it & getting those figures.
Hope it transpires to a good 1/4 mile time.
Cracking Q car.
Post 712335 by martybelfastt5 on 2014-05-17 00:48:38
awsome!!
Post 712336 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 01:01:24
[QUOTE=Biff;712333]That's very impressive Dave & well done for persisting with it & getting those figures.
Hope it transpires to a good 1/4 mile time.
Cracking Q car.[/QUOTE]
Limited talent don't forget. LOL
Post 712345 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-17 07:27:05
Well done sir, worth persevering with.
Post 712351 by Harvey on 2014-05-17 08:58:10
Perseverance on an epic scale well done Dave:eclipsee_
Post 712353 by Hybusamini on 2014-05-17 09:29:02
Good work m8
Post 712354 by stribo on 2014-05-17 09:30:20
Nice figures Dave, looks like I've got even more catching up to do now.
Post 712357 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 09:40:12
right all this limited talent is bull££££, Dave knows how to do a 1/4 mile like anyone else, so if he cant beat deans time now it aint cos of hi talent, well done dave i cant wait to see it fly
Post 712372 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-17 11:09:27
Quality work Mr wobbly well done mate, see you next week for a.beer and a.race :)
Post 712373 by JUDGENINJA on 2014-05-17 11:10:03
Congrats Dave... Now we need to see it put to full use!!!
Post 712379 by T5RatherAmusin on 2014-05-17 12:10:30
nice one dude!
Post 712385 by p fandango on 2014-05-17 12:27:55
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712357]right all this limited talent is bull££££, Dave knows how to do a 1/4 mile like anyone else[/QUOTE]
theirs a difference between knowing it, & being good at it. When you look at the theory side there is nothing to a 1/4mile run, but putting it into action & having the natural ability is another thing. Look at Spesh, give him a car & sometimes he was over half a second quicker than the best the owner could get out of it
Post 712410 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 15:40:16
I was thinking about bringing Spesh as my secret weapon, that's if I can get him off a jet ski for long enough. I am just hoping they'll let me run on the rubber start. Got myself in a right flap last year. And it's There's not their's as in the contraction of "there" & "is"
Post 712436 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 17:28:45
going to york aint gonna get you a good time mate, santa pod is where you need to be
Post 712437 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 17:29:15
[QUOTE=p fandango;712385]theirs a difference between knowing it, & being good at it. When you look at the theory side there is nothing to a 1/4mile run, but putting it into action & having the natural ability is another thing. Look at Spesh, give him a car & sometimes he was over half a second quicker than the best the owner could get out of it[/QUOTE]
dave is good, ive been in the car with him
Post 712438 by p fandango on 2014-05-17 17:30:22
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712437]dave is good, ive been in the car with him[/QUOTE]
on the 1/4mile?
Post 712440 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 17:32:10
[QUOTE=p fandango;712438]on the 1/4mile?[/QUOTE]
yes
Post 712444 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 17:52:15
I've had to work at it. Best time at York was only 14.088 (6th in my all time best). Santa Pod was were I did my PB as you remember because the engine gave up on the way home.
Post 712448 by stribo on 2014-05-17 18:07:52
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712437]dave is good, ive been in the car with him[/QUOTE]
Was you not at North Weald last year when he finished in the wrong lane? More work on talent needed I think.;)
Post 712449 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 18:08:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712444]I've had to work at it. Best time at York was only 14.088 (6th in my all time best). Santa Pod was were I did my PB as you remember because the engine gave up on the way home.[/QUOTE]
we both did our pb's that day, i picked your ticket up for you and was a little gutted as i thought i had done ya lol
Post 712451 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 18:08:58
[QUOTE=stribo;712448]Was you not at North Weald last year when he finished in the wrong lane? More work on talent needed I think.;)[/QUOTE]
there is no lines there
Post 712457 by stribo on 2014-05-17 18:19:51
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712451]there is no lines there[/QUOTE]
There are no corners either. :P A straight line is a straight line. ;)
Post 712466 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 18:48:14
[QUOTE=stribo;712457]There are no corners either. :P A straight line is a straight line. ;)[/QUOTE]
you'd be hard pushed to keep up with him on any track steve, perhaps he was being wobbly, who ££££ed up at york doing something similar?
Post 712467 by stribo on 2014-05-17 18:50:43
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712466]you'd be hard pushed to keep up with him on any track steve, perhaps he was being wobbly, who ££££ed up at york doing something similar?[/QUOTE]
I'm not slating him Frankie, and yeah, he was being very wobbly. I've never been to York, so no idea.
Post 712468 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 18:51:30
[QUOTE=stribo;712467]I'm not slating him Frankie, and yeah, he was being very wobbly. I've never been to York, so no idea.[/QUOTE]
probably was dave also lol
Post 712472 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 19:05:12
I had an epic fail at North Weald but Wobbly is as Wobbly does. I was focused so hard on gear changes & revs that I drifted slightly off line and then couldn't make out which exit was mine & chose the wrong one LOL. OOPS.
it would be good if we could all go to Cadwell or Oulton - but after York I'll be lucky to go anywhere.
Post 712473 by stribo on 2014-05-17 19:08:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712472]I had an epic fail at North Weald but Wobbly is as Wobbly does. I was focused so hard on gear changes & revs that I drifted slightly off line and then couldn't make out which exit was mine & chose the wrong one LOL. OOPS.
it would be good if we could all go to Cadwell - but after York I'll be lucky to go anywhere.[/QUOTE]
Because you're expecting the car to fail, or because of your wife?
Post 712478 by stribo on 2014-05-17 19:14:29
Sounds about right. lol The thing I most remember about Dave at North Weald last year was he'd get back from his run and complain about how he'd cocked it up. lol
Post 712479 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 19:15:31
[QUOTE=stribo;712478]Sounds about right. lol The thing I most remember about Dave at North Weald last year was he'd get back from his run and complain about how he'd cocked it up. lol[/QUOTE]
don't mention about cleaning blackdogs car either lol
Post 712481 by t5 pete on 2014-05-17 19:16:50
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712479]don't mention about cleaning blackdogs car either lol[/QUOTE]
pmsl poor wobbly
Post 712503 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 20:17:49
13.3 is all u have to beat dave ;)
Post 712508 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 20:29:27
[QUOTE=stribo;712473]Because you're expecting the car to fail, or because of your wife?[/QUOTE]
Family commitments. Engine is much stronger & better built this time. I accidentally ran 2.4 bar through it - and it didnt break.
Post 712509 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-17 20:29:49
ill have a fiver on dave getting in the 13 second club without breaking a sweat :)
Post 712511 by stribo on 2014-05-17 20:32:08
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;712509]ill have a fiver on dave getting in the 13 second club without breaking a sweat :)[/QUOTE]
Dave's already in the 13 second club.
Post 712519 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 20:36:50
I already am - my pb is 13.93 set at Santa Pod last year. Pay pal is acceptable.
Post 712520 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-17 20:37:16
[QUOTE=stribo;712511]Dave's already in the 13 second club.[/QUOTE]
so whos paying me the fiver then hahahaha as I posted it I thought he was but I was at the point of no return lol ok a fiver on dave making dean 2nd fastest ;)
Post 712524 by stribo on 2014-05-17 20:41:26
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;712520]so whos paying me the fiver then hahahaha as I posted it I thought he was but I was at the point of no return lol ok a fiver on dave making dean 2nd fastest ;)[/QUOTE]
That's the safest fiver you'll ever bet. ;) You want a fiver on which is quicker at North Weald, the S60R, or your 850?
Post 712530 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-17 20:51:51
[QUOTE=stribo;712524]That's the safest fiver you'll ever bet. ;) You want a fiver on which is quicker at North Weald, the S60R, or your 850?[/QUOTE]
whats the best time on the s60?
Post 712533 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 20:59:57
i reckon lee's car will be a 13 second car, not at north weald though
Post 712536 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-17 21:06:11
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712533]i reckon lee's car will be a 13 second car, not at north weald though[/QUOTE]
heres to hoping lol
Post 712545 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 21:21:44
Bring it lol
Post 712548 by stribo on 2014-05-17 21:39:29
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;712530]whats the best time on the s60?[/QUOTE]
15 seconds ;)
Post 712549 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 21:39:52
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;712530]whats the best time on the s60?[/QUOTE]
By his missus LOL
Post 712551 by stribo on 2014-05-17 21:42:48
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712549]By his missus LOL[/QUOTE]
'Tis true. :( But it's not so funny she's only 0.01 behind you is it mate?
Post 712554 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-17 21:47:32
I'm not taking anymore bets already lost a tenner to Frankie lol looks like u have no chance again this year lad!
Post 712563 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 21:58:49
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;712554]I'm not taking anymore bets already lost a tenner to Frankie lol looks like u have no chance again this year lad![/QUOTE]looks like u no chance this year again pal
Post 712564 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 22:00:46
Well I've been looking at the graphs from everything, for interest & to give you a comparison.
[LIST]
[*]19T back in March 2012 (run 3 in green) about 320 bhp
[*]last year in March with MBC 1.3 bar (no detonation) Run 30 -
[*]the more wiggly MBC 1.5 bar run from March 2013 (with it pulling out ignition due to det) Run 12
[*]and the new 404bhp run 38 in red.
[/LIST]
I think the main difference is the back end of the run 38 from 5.5 onwards & it hits max power at 6500rpm.
My only bother is the small torque dip between 4200 and 4700. I should like that to be a bit smoother and fuller.
Post 712573 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-17 22:36:01
so does that mean youll be putting some pressure on woody then??
Post 712576 by graemewelch on 2014-05-17 22:48:09
Good result but are you happy with those figures or is custom mapping still on the cards
Post 712577 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 22:51:33
I really don't know, is the gods honest truth. Should be good fun finding out though. What really sticks in my throat is not the 2.5 grand or so I've ploughed into getting it up again, its I actually really like Dean. No pressure at all LOL. Oh well it's only money I guess.
Post 712578 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 22:53:17
[QUOTE=theflyingbrick;712573]so does that mean youll be putting some pressure on woody then??[/QUOTE]not me that as been trying for last 3 years mr brick
Post 712579 by WOODY T5 on 2014-05-17 22:54:38
Thanks dave me like u too but good luck tho
Post 712582 by graemewelch on 2014-05-17 22:59:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712577]I really don't know, is the gods honest truth. Should be good fun finding out though. What really sticks in my throat is not the 2.5 grand or so I've ploughed into getting it up again, its I actually really like Dean. No pressure at all LOL. Oh well it's only money I guess.[/QUOTE]
Guess the proof is in the pudding as they say. Bet it gose well. Im going to try and get to york this year so hopfully ill get to see how she gose
Post 712584 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 23:05:18
i still dont reckon that will be enough to beat dean though
Post 712587 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-17 23:59:41
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712584]i still dont reckon that will be enough to beat dean though[/QUOTE]
Yeah but if play my Top Gun CD really loud it makes me feel better.
Anyone else wanna pop at me before I've turned up (including Pedro)
Post 712596 by p fandango on 2014-05-18 06:49:58
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712587]Anyone else wanna pop at me before I've turned up (including Pedro)[/QUOTE]
have i been posting in my sleep again?
Post 712603 by T5frankie on 2014-05-18 09:11:52
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712587]Yeah but if play my Top Gun CD really loud it makes me feel better.
Anyone else wanna pop at me before I've turned up (including Pedro)[/QUOTE]
we all know deans car already goes like a 400bhp car,
Post 712631 by LiamT4 on 2014-05-18 13:53:44
Nice one dave, proper Q car.
Post 712638 by martybelfastt5 on 2014-05-18 14:19:05
think this thread title is due an update! :funkybana
Post 712641 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-18 14:34:16
[QUOTE=martybelfastt5;712638]think this thread title is due an update! :funkybana[/QUOTE]
It had crossed my mind. Will one of the moderators oblige?
Post 712645 by Nealevo on 2014-05-18 14:55:44
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;712641]It had crossed my mind. Will one of the moderators oblige?[/QUOTE]
New thread title... Wobbly Dave VFSSB..... ;)
Post 712764 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-18 21:35:45
[QUOTE=Nealevo;712645]New thread title... Wobbly Dave VFSSB..... ;)[/QUOTE]
You been talkiing to our mutual friend again?
Post 712769 by AndysR on 2014-05-18 22:04:08
Very well done, well worth the wait for you no doubt :)
Post 712781 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-18 22:29:24
there is a different feeling about the whole thing just because it's gone North of 400. Not that I would have been upset with slightly less.
Post 712786 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-05-18 22:36:04
Title changed :)
Post 712821 by lance on 2014-05-19 07:01:12
Nice one Dave a good result well deserved :-)
Post 712863 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-05-19 11:49:21
nice one mate, well done.
Post 713887 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 15:06:42
When pushing an engine this hard I know that reliability is going to be compromised & I accept that. Coming back last night from Brum I "tickled" the engine a couple of times. Sods law just as I was getting back into Telford itself, when I heard a noise. It was late & the exhaust is noisy so I left it without really looking into the problem. Today I turned it over & discovered exhaust manifold has a blowing noise. Car sounds like a tractor. I've noticed there is a small drop in the coolant level.
Either I have a cracked manifold or its blown out the gasket. I hope its nothing worse.
However there is not a cat in hell's chance of making York Raceway - so I am to say the least extremely miffed. So from the elation of the dyno runs last week to the pits of despair. Fluids will need to be drained down, turbo off (cos there's no room down the back) - manifold off & just pray that it is only the gasket that's gone. I don't know if you'd get a blowing noise from a cracked head but lets not even go there.
Post 713889 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-05-23 15:08:55
I've never heard of it dave so fingers crossed gasket only.
Post 713892 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 15:10:50
I've ordered a new gasket from MJA who built the engine.
Post 713894 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-23 15:16:20
Fingers crossed it's only a gasket Dave and your quickly sorted.
Post 713895 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 15:21:08
I have tried with help from my NDN mechanic friend to nip the bolts up. It made the blow less significant but its not right & there's no point in pushing it.
Post 713896 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-23 15:30:32
Just a shame that as it's so tight in the engine bay that you have to remove a fair bit to get to anything.
Post 713901 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 15:57:16
I have my suspicions but I think the sequence of events is as follows. On Wednesday evening I change 2 of the hanger rubbers for the exhaust in an attempt to stop it clunking around.
Smiffy gave me the idea & I ran with it.
They weren't the best fit, but they did stop the exhaust moving about laterally and vertically. However I noticed today that one had fallen off the hanger underneath. its down to the material. I should have strapped them in place, as unlike the rubber ones they don't stretch (but that's the whole point).
The extra weight of the exhaust & all that jazz may have just been the straw that broke the camels back. Well there's no point grumbling about it now - what's done is done.
Perhaps I should have left it as was. just sometimes need to stop messin' - FFS.
Post 713929 by stribo on 2014-05-23 17:24:52
Hopefully the gasket will sort it, though not sure why it would lose water, unless there was still some air in the system when you put it back together, and it's now found its way out.
Post 713940 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 18:21:28
I will only know for sure once I've got it apart & it's chucking it down outside.
Post 713941 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-05-23 18:22:18
Fingers crossed it's an easy fix Dave
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;713940]I will only know for sure once I've got it apart & it's chucking it down outside.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I wanted to get on with mine today (day off), but no chance of that :(
Post 713943 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-23 18:41:36
Is it a 1 piece gasket Dave or multi?
Post 713948 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 18:55:07
Its this single 3 ply steel gasket.[ATTACH=CONFIG]25227[/ATTACH]
Post 713953 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 18:57:48
Could be that the manifold has warped or lifted.
Post 713957 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-23 19:00:16
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;713953]Could be that the manifold has warped or lifted.[/QUOTE]
Can't see.why your turbo not generating that much heat in reality to others
Post 713958 by claymore on 2014-05-23 19:02:26
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;713957]Can't see.why your turbo not generating that much heat in reality to others[/QUOTE]
Mine generated enough heat to boil the brake and clutch fluid and melted the plastic pipe going into the servo.
Post 713961 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-23 19:05:06
[QUOTE=claymore;713958]Mine generated enough heat to boil the brake and clutch fluid and melted the plastic pipe going into the servo.[/QUOTE]
Fair enough I'll stand corrected :)
Post 713962 by graemewelch on 2014-05-23 19:05:23
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;713940]I will only know for sure once I've got it apart & it's chucking it down outside.[/QUOTE]
Put your gazibo up youll be ok
Post 713963 by graemewelch on 2014-05-23 19:06:40
Ive got a cad drawing for the inlet gasket. I was going to get some copper ones water jet cut
I can forward you the dxf file if you want it
Post 713979 by stribo on 2014-05-23 19:35:35
[QUOTE=claymore;713958]Mine generated enough heat to boil the brake and clutch fluid and melted the plastic pipe going into the servo.[/QUOTE]
I guess your heatshield had been removed. ;)
Post 713985 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 19:42:31
[QUOTE=graemewelch;713963]Ive got a cad drawing for the inlet gasket. I was going to get some copper ones water jet cut
I can forward you the dxf file if you want it[/QUOTE]
I bought the uprated one from Snabb.us - but thanks.
Post 713987 by t5 pete on 2014-05-23 19:56:08
Bad news dave shame you havent got the gasket a eairly morning could have had it done tomorrow
Post 713989 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 20:00:22
Yeah - if I'd had a few more days even - timing is abysmal
Post 713992 by Jamest5r on 2014-05-23 20:10:52
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;713989]Yeah - if I'd had a few more days even - timing is abysmal[/QUOTE]
Can't you borrow the s40 and just come for the beer :)
Post 713995 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-23 20:16:58
I think I would find that even more depressing - I am not a watcher.
Post 713996 by T5frankie on 2014-05-23 20:17:49
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;713995]I think I would find that even more depressing - I am not a watcher.[/QUOTE]
no harm in voyeurism :uglyhamme
Post 714115 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-24 13:42:19
Well what do you do at 10:30 in the evening when you're bored of the TV & the internet. Go to bed?
Nope you partially strip the engine down. My watch battery ran out at 12:15 & I lost track of the time.
Good news is the gasket & manifold appear to be fine. The blow by appears to be coming from the v-band at the turbo/dp junction.
Bad news is I've drained the fluids & will need new manifold stud nuts. I will reuse the gasket because there is nowt wrong with it. I guess if i hadn't taken it apart we would not have known
Post 714119 by graemewelch on 2014-05-24 13:48:51
If the nuts are copper squash them in a vice. Just enough to put a flat spot on them
Post 714120 by M-R-P on 2014-05-24 13:50:33
Not a total fail then Dave (glass half full) bet thats a relief of sorts :)
Post 714148 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-24 16:39:34
[QUOTE=M-R-P;714120]Not a total fail then Dave (glass half full) bet thats a relief of sorts :)[/QUOTE]
Yes it is.
Post 714778 by martybelfastt5 on 2014-05-26 22:51:49
great news its not too serious
Post 714784 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-05-26 23:01:20
Ah good, not too bad then :)
Post 714789 by theflyingbrick on 2014-05-26 23:12:45
great news dave
Post 714795 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-26 23:23:10
I forgot to say it took me 5 hours to get it all off - didnt realise it was 3am until I got my mobile out & checked.
Post 714796 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-05-26 23:30:37
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;714795]I forgot to say it took me 5 hours to get it all off - didnt realise it was 3am until I got my mobile out & checked.[/QUOTE]
Best time to do it, when no one can disturb you
Post 715552 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-30 14:24:58
Again I pulled an all-nighter putting it back together again. Had to wait till lunchtime to start it as the wife was still resting. Still blows & got worse as it warmed up. I put some exhaust putty around the inside of the v-band clamp. I suspect that it may have blown it out or it is something else. I've ordered a brand new v-band clamp, which should land on Monday. If it doesn't resolve the issue then I guess the dp will have to come off & be unwrapped & checked. Rapidly approaching the gallon of diesel & matches method.
Post 715555 by graemewelch on 2014-05-30 14:33:11
Befor you go to mad check the lambda sensors havnt come loose. Im guess the manifold has been of head and new gasket fitted so it shouldnt be leaking there. If you can hear it s
You should be able to feel the gases escape and have a rough idea wear its leaking
Post 715558 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-30 15:06:17
There was no evidence to show any blow by on the gasket - which was a single piece 3 ply metal one. I didn't replace it because there was nowt wrong with it. It is very difficult to see where the leak is coming from.
Post 715681 by t5 pete on 2014-05-30 21:46:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;715552]Again I pulled an all-nighter putting it back together again. Had to wait till lunchtime to start it as the wife was still resting. Still blows & got worse as it warmed up. I put some exhaust putty around the inside of the v-band clamp. I suspect that it may have blown it out or it is something else. I've ordered a brand new v-band clamp, which should land on Monday. If it doesn't resolve the issue then I guess the dp will have to come off & be unwrapped & checked. Rapidly approaching the gallon of diesel & matches method.[/QUOTE]
Petrol works better wobbly but joking aside keep your chin up these things happen with cars especially when tuning/modding things regarding exhaust paste use some exhaust silicone there is less chance of it blowing out I had a similar prob where two faces of the flanges didn't meet exactly not much off but enough to keep blowing out used the silicone and job done
Post 715719 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-30 23:59:29
That's just the thing. The very same clamp & v-band have been working perfectly all the way through last year until just now - & the only evidence of blow-by was on the clamp. The only changes made since the dyno run was the powerflex hangers (because I've been trying to iron out the clunking noises), which were not a perfect fit. I couldn't see any issues with the mating faces on the v-band other than the soot from the blow by. I just hope the new clamp will sort it out.
Post 715720 by graemewelch on 2014-05-31 00:05:33
If you can check the flanges havnt distorted. They shouldnt of but its possible if the clamp wasnt tight. Stainless is a bitch for distorting unlike carbon steels
Post 715721 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-31 00:11:08
I'll double check them when I take off the clamp again.
Post 715722 by graemewelch on 2014-05-31 00:14:56
If you have feeler gauges butt the two of them together hand tight and check for gaps.
Post 715726 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-05-31 00:32:47
I've decided to get a SS v-band gasket too - sadly had to import them from the states.
Post 716047 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-01 01:12:26
My new v-band clamp arrived from Blackpool via e-bay. Bolt was thinner than the old one :( but I am not sure that will make too much difference. I got the old clamp off and there was soot on the shaft of the bolt. This is just one part of the circle not covered by the clamp. Hope this old photo shows what I am on about.
I reverted the hangers back to the original rubber ones for now. Exhaust still touches the rear ARB. :(
I will try & find some better fitting powerflex ones.
I cleaned off the exhaust putty from last week as best I could given the difficult access. the mating surfaces did not appear to show any gaps. I bought & now appear to have lost the feeler gauge - but as I said could only see soot in one spot.
I applied a new bead of putty & tightened it to 40NM (as much as i dare) & will leave it to set till tomorrow.
Post 716048 by stribo on 2014-06-01 01:25:28
I hope it's sorted mate, but it doesn't really matter if you can't try it out on the strip. :(
Post 716529 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-02 22:15:24
I put the new clamp on - with exhaust putty. It was better but it still blows. Will have to wait till next week to see if my last hope the v-band gasket. I will probably take the downpipe off completely & clean it up. Luckily it can be split off the cat, as it has a 3 bolt flange, just before the cat.
Post 716552 by M-R-P on 2014-06-02 23:07:44
Ball ache Dave, I think I speak for most of us when I say I hope you pin the problem down and it's a simple fix.
keep at it mate.
Post 716556 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-02 23:12:59
There was still soot showing on the old clamp. I am convinced it has to be that interface. Its so irritating because until 2 weeks ago it was perfect. GRRRR!
Post 716557 by M-R-P on 2014-06-02 23:14:22
It's a Volvo... And ME7 too... Nothing's ever simple.
Post 716561 by theflyingbrick on 2014-06-02 23:38:07
ive got all my fingers and toes crossed for you and hope that you've sussed it out and get it sorted mate :)
Post 716658 by BlackBeast on 2014-06-03 19:38:11
If it isn't the vband, other possibilities include any of the other sealing flanges with the exhaust housing. Mine were welded up, so manifold to exhaust housing and exhaust housing to internal wastegate. Never had an issue with the vband though. Are you buying ATP versions? Are the clamps and flanges stainless versions?
Post 716660 by Biff on 2014-06-03 19:41:30
[QUOTE=M-R-P;716557]It's a Volvo... And ME7 too... Nothing's ever simple.[/QUOTE]
Your not exactly filling me full of confidence there Martin. :(
Keep trying Dave, you'll sort it in the end!
Post 716664 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 20:05:30
Martin was bitten by a DIM & has been bitter ever since.
Post 716667 by stribo on 2014-06-03 20:08:28
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716664]Martin was bitten by a DIM & has been bitter ever since.[/QUOTE]
Now you've done it, he'll be posting that bloody vid next. ;)
Post 716668 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 20:10:19
[QUOTE=stribo;716667]Now you've done it, he'll be posting that bloody vid next. ;)[/QUOTE] Still on my favourites on Youtube.
Post 716669 by Biff on 2014-06-03 20:11:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716664]Martin was bitten by a DIM & has been bitter ever since.[/QUOTE]
Well at least I don't have that worry. Lol
I've been cramming revision on me7. ;)
Post 716671 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 20:14:34
Yes mine is a bit more dim witted. (geddit LOL)
Post 716672 by Biff on 2014-06-03 20:15:39
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716671]Yes mine is a bit more dim witted. (geddit LOL)[/QUOTE]
Does yours have a dim Dave?
Post 716680 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 20:37:43
No just an instrument binnacle & a CEM. Unfortunately it means you can't swap ECUs like you can with 850s & earlier 70 series.
Post 716685 by Biff on 2014-06-03 20:48:09
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716680]No just an instrument binnacle & a CEM. Unfortunately it means you can't swap ECUs like you can with 850s & earlier 70 series.[/QUOTE]
I'm really unsure about getting it mapped. Can't help feeling it'll be more reliable left standard. Although with your list of modifications on Betsy I'm not sure your the best person to comment. ;)
Post 716690 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 21:05:44
Have you bought "it"? I had 7 years of pretty reliable motoring with the 19T - 4 custom maps. Engine started to consume water & it was only at that point - 2.5 years ago I decided to make or break.
Post 716696 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 21:35:57
[QUOTE=Biff;716685]I'm really unsure about getting it mapped. Can't help feeling it'll be more reliable left standard. Although with your list of modifications on Betsy I'm not sure your the best person to comment. ;)[/QUOTE]
The only real worry you'll have with the ME7 C70 would be the ETM. Everything else is very simple and nowhere near as awkward as the later ME7.1 stuff in the P2 where bloody everything is connected to something that might have a hissy fit.
Mapping it wont hurt it too, it's a stronger engine than the 850 and the off the shelf maps are nice and safe. Its when you go outside the norm you have to be careful.
Post 716698 by Biff on 2014-06-03 21:44:50
Trains booked, insurance is sorted & Friday is the day! :) I'm like a kid at Christmas.
That's good to hear Martin, Dave has also mentioned the etm's aren't programmed so that's a relief!
I'm hoping it will reward me better than the v70r but with 220,000 miles less I reckon it will. Lol
Post 716700 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 21:49:54
I've many maps and the ATM map that I am running now is by far the smoothest & most powerful, although not quite so torqueful upfront.
Post 716701 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 21:52:28
C70 T5 manual coupes are becoming increasingly rare.
Post 716703 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 21:57:05
[QUOTE=Biff;716698]Trains booked, insurance is sorted & Friday is the day! :) I'm like a kid at Christmas.
That's good to hear Martin, Dave has also mentioned the etm's aren't programmed so that's a relief!
I'm hoping it will reward me better than the v70r but with 220,000 miles less I reckon it will. Lol[/QUOTE]
220k is just a run in mate lol. So the new one has under 100k? Sweet, youll struggle to kill it then haha.
Post 716705 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 21:58:32
So Dave, my video is on your favs list? Well you were responsable for the sequence of events lol. :)
Post 716706 by stribo on 2014-06-03 21:59:42
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716701]C70 T5 manual coupes are becoming increasingly rare.[/QUOTE]
Not as rare as manual gay gold pre ME7 C70 T5 GTs. ;)
Post 716707 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 22:01:15
[QUOTE=stribo;716706]Not as rare as manual gay gold pre ME7 C70 T5 GTs. ;)[/QUOTE] Yeah but the colour is rubbish!! LOL
Post 716708 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 22:02:15
[QUOTE=stribo;716706]Not as rare as manual gay gold pre ME7 C70 T5 GTs. ;)[/QUOTE]
Thank fudge for that.
2003 V70 T5s in polar white are even rarer tho - 4 left at the last count.
Post 716717 by stribo on 2014-06-03 22:47:44
[QUOTE=M-R-P;716708]Thank fudge for that.
2003 V70 T5s in polar white are even rarer tho - 4 left at the last count.[/QUOTE]
Difference is, mine isn't a money pit, and has a lot more torque than yours. lol
Post 716719 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 22:59:44
[QUOTE=stribo;716717]Difference is, mine isn't a money pit, and has a lot more torque than yours. lol[/QUOTE]
Mine is no longer a money pit and has a lot more bhp than yours, can carry an Ikea kitchen and scares motorists that would usually be laughing at yours :D
Post 716720 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-03 23:03:07
Can you two find your own thread thrash out this willy waving contest LOL??
BTW Did I mention I have a 400 bhp C70?
Post 716724 by M-R-P on 2014-06-03 23:06:07
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;716720]Can you two find your own thread thrash out this willy waving contest LOL??
BTW Did I mention I have a 400 bhp C70?[/QUOTE]
...please feel free to drive it somewhere pretty and take a photo ;)
Post 718705 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-13 14:05:39
I am a at a bit of a loss what to do. I got bored of waiting for the gasket to arrive from the states so I bought a 3 inch SS gasket and cut the lugs of it. I reassembled the dp putting it on at the top first then the 3 bolt pre-cat flange (with putty) but the blow still continues. I've tightened the manifold bolts to 34Nm which is 9 more than the book figure of 25.
Post 718711 by Plodmonkey on 2014-06-13 14:26:35
Nitrous
Post 718720 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-13 15:08:51
I think the v-band is still blowing. I will strip it down for the 4 time - this time I will remove the heat wrap (shame really) to ensure the d/p isn't cracked.
Post 719291 by partsforvolvos.com on 2014-06-16 12:07:53
[QUOTE=Plodmonkey;718711]Nitrous[/QUOTE]
dunno, how much more can the gearbox take without major risk ? that would be a hell of a lot more instant torque.
Post 719446 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-06-16 23:22:52
Not really helping with my v-band leak though is it??
Post 722841 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-07-07 01:01:49
I went to HLM to use the smoke machine, just over a week ago, as I was no longer certain if it was the v-band still leaking.
Turned out it wasnt the V-band after all. No the main culprit was one of the 6 bolts holding the semi-circular clamps on the turbine hosing. It'd worked its way out. Finally got the replacement bolt in this evening (been a bit pre-occupied). You can see the offending article just to the right of the CHRA water connector.
Oh & she passed her MOT too. thanks again to Hamish for the loan of the smoke machine, without which I would still be chasing my own tail.
Very happy that it has stopped blowing. Just a shame I wont get to use the car in anger this year (at least I doubt it).
Post 722850 by t5 pete on 2014-07-07 08:46:57
Great news you found it dave minds well let me use that turbo now saves you having to put it back in
Post 722851 by Nealevo on 2014-07-07 09:19:12
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;722841]Just a shame I wont get to use the car in anger this year (at least I doubt it).[/QUOTE]
Its ok Dave ill run it for you if you wish:)
Post 722867 by stribo on 2014-07-07 10:29:23
[QUOTE=Nealevo;722851]Its ok Dave ill run it for you if you wish:)[/QUOTE]
He wants it in the 13s, not the 15s. ;)
Post 722870 by WOODY T5 on 2014-07-07 11:01:40
[QUOTE=Nealevo;722851]Its ok Dave ill run it for you if you wish:)[/QUOTE]yeah and someone with a gay gold c70's ^^^^^^
Post 722874 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-07-07 12:11:46
[QUOTE=Nealevo;722851]Its ok Dave ill run it for you if you wish:)[/QUOTE]
If you bring it back in 1 piece. I'd sooner have it put in a time this year than not.
Post 722875 by stribo on 2014-07-07 12:17:21
[QUOTE=WOODY T5;722870]yeah and someone with a gay gold c70's ^^^^^^[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I'll run it, I know what it's like to get into the 13s. ;)
Post 722878 by JUDGENINJA on 2014-07-07 13:36:56
Problem is your car should be in the 13s standard!!!
Post 727770 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-04 00:41:36
As you may know I've had a few issues with my ETM - well the codes & the light & the rough idle all pointed towards the unit being at fault. Anyway I used VolvoDiagnostic to prove the contactless upgrade/repair. I put the unit back on this evening. Still not 100% happy, so I think I will replace the throttle position sensor, at the top of the throttle pedal. Oddly on the test drive I was able to get the full range of pedal/throttle movement, but when I tried to heel'n'toe the downshift, I got no throttle response at all. Still feels a little hesitant/unwilling - not all the time mind.
Is there a bedding in period for the new ETM? Should I leave the battery off overnight?
Post 727773 by stribo on 2014-08-04 01:12:10
I'd imagine (though I could be talking ££££££££) that if the ECU detects the brake switch has been activated, it would cut the throttle.
Post 727774 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-04 01:23:43
it always used to heel n toe without any issue, when it was running right.
Post 727787 by M-R-P on 2014-08-04 08:00:22
How long was the test drive Dave?
Like a TCV, it "might" take a while to adjust to the way the engine reacts to the throttle input. Might be worth pulling the battery for a couple of hours, then going for a gentle drive, then a slightly spirited drive etc.
Post 727846 by Dream3r on 2014-08-04 16:47:36
Did you look that the tps voltages when pressing it? Should be linear afaik.
I'd be suspect of the ETM if it's the only thing changed.
Post 727884 by Jamest5r on 2014-08-04 20:08:53
[QUOTE=Dream3r;727846]Did you look that the tps voltages when pressing it? Should be linear afaik.
I'd be suspect of the ETM if it's the only thing changed.[/QUOTE]
Can you map this thing?? is is the technology below what you work with??
Post 727907 by Dream3r on 2014-08-04 21:30:12
ME7 is ME7 :) But, I'm not interested in tuning any other stage 3 cars until I've wrung the neck of my caR first.
One thing I have just thought of, back OT. The ETM position is one of the very few variables stored in the Volvo ME7 EEPROM, which will survive battery off etc as it is non-volatile memory. A code read and clear of the ECU/ECM should clear those stored values, idk tbh, but it might help.
Post 727951 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-05 00:02:17
The purpose of the ETM repair was 2 fold. To keep the need for having to code a new ETM to the car and to future proof it against the original design flaw in the original sensor.
ETS light came on again this evening. I was going to run Betsy up to the hospital (as I was going up there to see my new daughters), but decided against it.
I am going to HLM tomorrow. I will change the pedal as both parts were over 120 K old. To my mind keeping the maintenance in step makes sense. Then if there are still issues then we can address them.
Post 728108 by deathrider311271 on 2014-08-05 20:38:07
the ECU needs to learn the new values of the ETM, do as dream3r said and get rid of all codes with vida dice, then switch the ignition to [position 2 (dash lights on) but do not start the car, leave it in this position for a MINIMUM OF 10 MINUTES. Turn to off position for a MINIMUM OF 2 MINUTES, then take for a drive gently at first slowly introducing more throttle.
It will take a minimum of 50 miles for the ECU to completly learn the new values.
Your accelerator is the throttle position sensor, you cant just change the top part, Volvo will sell you a P2 accelerator as you cant get the P1 version anymore, mine was about £90 from FRF swansea
Post 728125 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-05 22:57:45
Some of the snag list was resolved. Service light was done. SRS light is the SIPS bag in the drivers seat. I have a spare seat - its not the GT seat I prefer but funds are limited. So although not resolved - at least I know where it is.
ETS turns out to be a P1172 code - long term fuel triim. Few issues though, which oddly seem to resolve themselves. There was also an intermittent ETS fault registered. The ETS light has been on but for other reasons. Oddly the previously inoperative cruise control has returned & the heel'n'toe issue has now returned to normal.
I may yet pull the battery overnight, reset the fuel trim & see how we go. Need to check the system for airleaks following the ETM restoration. Temperamental or what??
Air con has been regassed - so thats nice and cool - even though the nice weather has done a runner.
Post 729409 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-12 23:20:21
Lit up like a fkin Christmas tree FFS. Betsy is sorely trying my patience.
I did reset the fuel trim by leaving the battery off and tried to retrim the throttle response. Drive Train & ETM warning lights were coming on and off with a mixture of Turbo Overboost Condition (P0234) & then to cap it all the ABS light put in an appearance which might explain the intermittant/ mostly absent cruise control. DTC said P1550 (speed signal).
So I changed out the ABS ECU for a spare I had - after finally discovering the safe place I'd put it - even though the one coming off was one of my own repairs from 2008.
I disco'd the battery when I unplugged it all, just to be on the safe side. Put it all back together & started her up.
ABS light has now been joined by the brake warning light (the red one with the circled exclamation mark in it).
Idle is irratic but as far as I can tell the long term fuel trim code has not returned, but most annoyingly the ODBII port/ECU is no longer talking to the code reader bluetooth device - so I can't bleedin' tell what the brake warning light is doing on.
I am also paranoid that the rate of coolant depletion is something slightly more sinister than an air trap. I have a headgasket sniffer test kit but I am somewhat reluctant to use it, as I am almost certainly in denial. Not a happy camper
Post 729412 by Dream3r on 2014-08-12 23:27:24
Well that Sucks :(
Remember the etm calibrations are stored in permanent ram so a code clear with a DiCE is required there. Battery off will not work.
What injectors are you running re poor idle?
Post 729413 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-12 23:33:25
Doesn't it just.
ASNU 650cc injectors - Deatchwerks DW300 pump.
Post 729421 by Dream3r on 2014-08-12 23:58:04
Assuming that the data sheet I found is right then they'll be nonlinear at the normal idle injection pulse width of your car. Unless they only started going that recently then I'm talking crap :)
Does it hunt at idle after about 30 secs of a hot start?
Post 729424 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-13 00:09:53
yup, sometimes. It rises like as if I was gently blipping the throttle. I assumed it was just part of having non-standard injectors.
Post 729436 by stribo on 2014-08-13 08:08:18
On the subject of your ABS/brake warning lights, does your speedo still work? When the ABS ecubwent on the S70, we got the same warning lights and no speedo. I know you've just changed it, but maybe the replacement unit is duff.
Post 729445 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-13 09:51:18
I need a code reader that will do it all. TORQUE is cheap (LOL) - but doesn't pick it all up. Without proper codes it is all just guess work.
Post 729476 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-08-13 15:01:14
Pity I'm not at home, I have vol-fcr on the laptop which I used on my abs unit the other day.
Post 729490 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-13 16:07:17
Some good news - I have bit the bullet and did my sniffer test. HG is fine. I was worried because I accidentally did a frankie on my engine & ran 2.4 bar (for a watch this moment), due a kinked hose on the MBC (prior to going to the Blitz SBC). I do wonder how good the seal is on the expansion tank.
If I was to buy a DICE reader which one is the best for my model year?
Other questions that appear to worry me are - partial throttle map and how the engine sorts out the idle speed and how ME7 warns on the turbo overboost issue/what the thresholds are and can they be altered in the map.
Post 729491 by M-R-P on 2014-08-13 16:09:14
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;729445]I need a code reader that will do it all. TORQUE is cheap (LOL) - but doesn't pick it all up. Without proper codes it is all just guess work.[/QUOTE]
I found with Graham's car, torque doesn't even pick up lambda readings :(
Works fine on mine tho :)
Post 729495 by p fandango on 2014-08-13 16:41:23
have you had it properly mapped for the injectors/turbo, or is it just a file Hamish already ran that "seems to work"
Post 729496 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-13 16:57:42
I have had the partial throttle map tweaked for the injectors, but essentially it is still the same custom ATM map for 19T. I think there is scope for additional mapping.
Post 729497 by claymore on 2014-08-13 16:58:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;729490]Some good news - I have bit the bullet and did my sniffer test. HG is fine. I was worried because I accidentally did a frankie on my engine & ran 2.4 bar (for a watch this moment), due a kinked hose on the MBC (prior to going to the Blitz SBC). I do wonder how good the seal is on the expansion tank.
If I was to buy a DICE reader which one is the best for my model year?
Other questions that appear to worry me are - partial throttle map and how the engine sorts out the idle speed and how ME7 warns on the turbo overboost issue/what the thresholds are and can they be altered in the map.[/QUOTE]
Time to change to Evans coolant
Post 729519 by Dream3r on 2014-08-13 18:32:00
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;729424]yup, sometimes. It rises like as if I was gently blipping the throttle. I assumed it was just part of having non-standard injectors.[/QUOTE]
That's generally the fuel trims starting up that causes that. I can't speak about those exact injectors but generally the idle issue can be fixed by the tuner.
Post 729583 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-13 23:05:53
I can see where my coolant is going. There is a misty steam rising from the top o/s edge of the bonnet when I pull into the drive and turn off. Must be evap around the cap. evans may be the way forward?
@Dream3R - do you have any insight into the overboost P0234 code?
Good news - the ODBII dongle started/ECU started spontaneously started working again?? WTF?
The speedo currently only reads 50% of what it should do. I am therefore fairly convinced that the brake light of death and ABS light will be linked to a failed ABS sensor. Need more diagnostics to find out which.
Still need better diagnostics - any recommendations?
Some ar_se has left some of their brown paint my bumper, which my wife pointed out earlier today. I think most of it will come off with clay bar.
Post 729597 by Dream3r on 2014-08-14 00:07:31
Overboost/underboost could be a lot of things.
Assuming the hardware is ok, then you'd need to properly datalog the car to find out. You mentioned 1.7 bar, that's waaaay beyond the normal me7 map limit. So it may be that.
There is positive and negative deviation maps in the diagnosis functions for boost. Could be either.
Post 729637 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-14 12:33:26
Datalogging has always been an issue for me. I have no faith in TORQUE Pro, even if it is nice & simple - I am just not believing the values.
I know that Hussein Holland is using OT2/ Innovate Logworks. Any recommendations would be welcomed.
I am seeing the overboost code regardless of whether I am on the pedal or not. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to its appearance. Currently OTR I am just running actuator pressure which peaks out at 1.42 bar.
I will only use the 1.7 bar for competitions.
The long term fuel trim returned last night on the way home. I need to seek a session with a smoke machine to check for air leaks.
Post 729639 by ExternalError on 2014-08-14 12:45:00
Dreamer uses his own data logging sofware he developed
Post 729728 by Dream3r on 2014-08-14 23:58:58
That's correct I have a DiCE based datalogger which I wrote.
Forgive me if this is wrong, but iirc you're running a larger maf housing and injectors with no map adjustments for them? That right there could be the reason for the fuel trim codes. Obviously checking physical first makes the most sense.
Post 730033 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-08-16 23:48:36
Well there is some good news today. Found the air leak, with the smoke generator at HLM. The PCV system pipe that has a 3 way connector under the OS end of the intake manifold was disconnected. That would explain many of the trim codes.
Also we sorted out the ABS faults - replaced both front ABS sensors - we suspect the frayed wiring sheath was the main issue. The swapped ECU was showing faults too - & the original WD repaired unit was actually fine. So I've swapped it back. The ABS & the brake warning light of death and the 50% speedo - all rectified. Sadly cruise remains offline. I am now regretting slightly the ETM repair. I think we need to re-calibrate/update the software?
Coolant leak has been tracked down, but I haven't had chance to repair it. There is seepage around one of the coolant pipes going into the oil cooler.
I still don't think I am out of the woods completely. I do think more work needs to be done on the partial throtlle map & the repaired ETM. I do wonder if the cruise control issue is linked to the ETM repair?
If you want some cash and can point me in the right direction for hardware & the license/code for your datalogger then PM me the details.
Post 730037 by deathrider311271 on 2014-08-17 00:18:50
the cruise issue will not be anything to do with the ETM repair, my money is on the brake switch in the servo
Post 738293 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 15:43:47
As you may have read on the Avon Park meeting thread - my new race engine has not lasted as long as I would have liked.
Before I could line up for the 3rd run against Jimbo - I started her up in the fire up lane and basically threw out enough smoke/steam to cloud the entire queue behind me & bring over a fire marshall. First time I have ever gone out the back door by the tower. Thanks to Stu for following me the 3 miles back to Stratford. I basically emptied the header tank in that short distance and knew that it was necessary to get recovered.
AA confirmed on the recovery (Old Tramway pub - again) that they believed that H/G had blown. A fair number of post Avon Park meetings and number of recoveries have been done from that location. Lazlo the hungarian recovery agent - was such a nice guy. Went out of his way to make it nice and easy for me & as a VW fan was sympathetic to my modification hobby. He'd put a VR6 engine, in a Mk 1 Golf and supercharged it!
I had the SSB dropped over to HLM - where Hamish had kindly gone out of his way to drop the Astra diesel out of the unit, so at least I had transport. Top bloke.
Hamish had a chance yesterday to triage the damage and confirmed further - there is combustion gasses in the coolant, a plugs out compression test shows consistent but substantive decrease across the board and the boroscope showed evidence of coolant in all 5 cylinders - but no cracks seen as of yet. I think I will pick up the rest of the issues on my project thread.
Right so what now. I have no time to repair it. My wife was surprisingly sympathetic but reckons I should break the bits and use it in another project car. I've been mulling it over.
Cons
There are still cosmetic issues with a serious rust bubble in the ns rear quarter. SBS light is on still even though I've swapped the Drivers seat.
Question over being able to run 1.7 bar through that gasket/engine - desperately poor reliability (even for a race road car).
Pro's
I still love the car. I still need to beat Dean, do track days & hill climbs. Even though I said this was the last roll of the dice. Still want my BBK and coilovers and another remap and to get the best out of the current setup.
Just wonder if I wouldn't be better throwing money into a slightly younger car - possibly a 2002 late model & no I don't want an S60 - or track down a V70 as the practicality would be useful now.
As ever time and money is even more limited. The Scottish referendum did nothing to improve my Euro salary and the triplets are a handful.
I do think I will need to rationalise my wheel & tyre collection & generate funds from other spares to help pay for it.
FYI - Colin - Yes the compression is lowered - 7.9:1
Post 738297 by M-R-P on 2014-09-30 15:51:44
Bummer Dave :(
Potentially, it's just a HG, Head bolts, cleanup and some effort...?
OK, potentially it's a lot worse but being positive until you know either way...
Post 738302 by T5frankie on 2014-09-30 16:00:51
I'm thinking 854 Dave??
Post 738306 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 16:11:39
I think I would go forward in time. Not back.
Post 738310 by V70 Graham on 2014-09-30 16:23:41
Hard luck mate, whatever you decide take your time doing so.
Post 738311 by T5frankie on 2014-09-30 16:26:59
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738306]I think I would go forward in time. Not back.[/QUOTE]
Volvo's are timeless and the newer stuff is junk
Post 738313 by smithy on 2014-09-30 16:33:48
I would look for a good body pre me7 c70 because I know you like the c70s and stick most of the bits on that one .or something go a bit different a s70 pre me7 manual t5 .all you parts fit without the hassle of me7 too .a winner to me and more practical .
Post 738315 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 16:46:41
looking at Foamy's ME7 - as it already has the coilovers and many of the features I was going to get. And I really want a dark car.
Post 738336 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 18:51:52
Thanks I saw it earlier and I am not keen on the tan interior
Post 738338 by S70T5Chris on 2014-09-30 18:53:39
I would be looking at a Pre-ME7 Dave.
There are plenty of examples of high powered Pre-ME7's running for thousands of reliable miles on road and track. If car is getting a complete overhaul what does the age matter?
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Post 738339 by Jamest5r on 2014-09-30 18:56:53
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;738338]I would be looking at a Pre-ME7 Dave.
There are plenty of examples of high powered Pre-ME7's running for thousands of reliable miles on road and track. If car is getting a complete overhaul what does the age matter?
Good luck with whatever you decide.[/QUOTE]
A few of us have been trying to tell him that but he's a stubbon old goat :)
Post 738342 by T5frankie on 2014-09-30 19:01:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738336]Thanks I saw it earlier and I am not keen on the tan interior[/QUOTE]
dave you have a full interior in betsy, i agree pre me7 too
Post 738344 by graemewelch on 2014-09-30 19:09:13
Whats all the pre me7 non sense. Both of daves failures have been down to engine failure. Nothing to do with management. If i was in your shoes dave id park the car up forget about and enjoy your4 kids growing. It must be a right nightmare for you.1 new born is hard enough but 3 i have nothing butvrespect for any one who can cope with that. But a lump of metal would be the last of my worries.
Post 738346 by S70T5Chris on 2014-09-30 19:17:37
[QUOTE=graemewelch;738344]Whats all the pre me7 non sense. Both of daves failures have been down to engine failure. Nothing to do with management. If i was in your shoes dave id park the car up forget about and enjoy your4 kids growing. It must be a right nightmare for you.1 new born is hard enough but 3 i have nothing butvrespect for any one who can cope with that. But a lump of metal would be the last of my worries.[/QUOTE]
I agree to a point mate, but you've got to have your hobbies, otherwise you'll go mad!
Post 738349 by Jamest5r on 2014-09-30 19:29:29
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;738346]I agree to a point mate, but you've got to have your hobbies, otherwise you'll go mad![/QUOTE]
2nd that and i aint got no kids :)
Post 738352 by Nealevo on 2014-09-30 19:32:51
Everyone needs a hobby, mine is golf, as this 1/4 mile malarkey is too expensive.
O and cos I'm rubbish at it :)
Post 738353 by stribo on 2014-09-30 19:36:56
[QUOTE=smithy;738313]I would look for a good body pre me7 c70 because I know you like the c70s and stick most of the bits on that one .or something go a bit different a s70 pre me7 manual t5 .all you parts fit without the hassle of me7 too .a winner to me and more practical .[/QUOTE]
I agree with Carl, and others, I think you'd have fewer mapping problems than with the temperamental ME7.
Post 738354 by stribo on 2014-09-30 19:40:57
[QUOTE=Nealevo;738352]Everyone needs a hobby, mine is golf, as this 1/4 mile malarkey is too expensive.
O and cos I'm rubbish at it :)[/QUOTE]
Since when has golf been cheap? I've heard you're rubbish at that too. lol
Post 738357 by t5 pete on 2014-09-30 19:46:21
[QUOTE=stribo;738354]Since when has golf been cheap? I've heard you're rubbish at that too. lol[/QUOTE]
Pmsl
Post 738358 by Jamest5r on 2014-09-30 19:47:15
[QUOTE=Nealevo;738352]Everyone needs a hobby, mine is golf, as this 1/4 mile malarkey is too expensive.
O and cos I'm rubbish at it :)[/QUOTE]
Im rubbish at both but i break less playing golf :)
Post 738363 by p fandango on 2014-09-30 19:55:55
I am actually lost. Your thinking of buying a new car, to put it an engine you've blown up into?
Post 738365 by Jamest5r on 2014-09-30 20:01:53
[QUOTE=p fandango;738363]I am actually lost. Your thinking of buying a new car, to put it an engine you've blown up into?[/QUOTE]
Yep :)
Post 738366 by p fandango on 2014-09-30 20:03:49
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;738365]Yep :)[/QUOTE]
Ah, it all makes perfect sense now
Post 738379 by Jamest5r on 2014-09-30 20:53:48
[QUOTE=p fandango;738366]Ah, it all makes perfect sense now[/QUOTE]
Wobbly is what Wobbly does :)
Post 738411 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 22:55:24
I was thinking that with the BC coilovers, paintwork, SBS and the ETM in good order on Victor-ia, I could fix up the the good bits from Betsy including the broken engine and almalgamate into 1
vs. just fixing up Betsy as she is and then addressing the other issues and desired improvements.
or just give it all up - break the car
or park her up, stick a waterproof cover on her and forget about it.
Post 738415 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 23:03:12
[QUOTE=T5frankie;738342]dave you have a full interior in betsy, i agree pre me7 too[/QUOTE]
I have lots of interiors.
Post 738417 by MoleT-5R on 2014-09-30 23:13:16
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738411]I was thinking that with the BC coilovers, paintwork, SBS and the ETM in good order on Victor-ia, I could fix up the the good bits from Betsy including the broken engine and [COLOR=#ff0000]almalgamate[/COLOR] into 1
vs. just fixing up Betsy as she is and then addressing the other issues and desired improvements.
or just give it all up - break the car
or park her up, stick a waterproof cover on her and forget about it.[/QUOTE]
You are so close now with Betsy it seems mad not to see it though, but then it wasn't me doing the work and footing the bill and taking the heartache, so I do understand. But to be fair to Betsy, you have gone into a whole new area and some teething troubles are to be expected, it will just be down to how much you can take before you and betsy succeed in your 1/4 mile targets, as I sure she will great out on track too. These annoying hiccups are a real pita for you and jimbob but your both so close, so please don't give up on her yet, she has more to give
P.s [COLOR=#ff0000]almalgamate[/COLOR] maybe should have been amalgamated.....lol ;)
Post 738418 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-09-30 23:26:39
I don't think I am done yet either - even though I said in January this was the last roll of the dice.
There are also other technical reasons for wanting a later ME7 C70 - particularly in reference to the tacho signal for the Blitz. Due to the early nature of the wiring loom it is near impossible to get the right signal. I've had to make do.
Even the MY2000 has a slightly different loom and a signal you can easily tap from the binnacle.
Then the cosmetic issues and the fact that the black one is black (a preferred colour) and has the coilovers I've been after and the ETM may well be better. On the downside the map is not transferable, though I do need to fix up the map anyway.
Is 1.7 bar too much ?? Do I need to re-evaluate how much boost to run and FYI I didnt run the full bore boost on the road (just actuator pressure).
Post 738419 by stribo on 2014-09-30 23:40:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738418]I don't think I am done yet either - even though I said in January this was the last roll of the dice.
There are also other technical reasons for wanting a later ME7 C70 - particularly in reference to the tacho signal for the Blitz. Due to the early nature of the wiring loom it is near impossible to get the right signal. I've had to make do.
Even the MY2000 has a slightly different loom and a signal you can easily tap from the binnacle.
Then the cosmetic issues and the fact that the black one is black (a preferred colour) and has the coilovers I've been after and the ETM may well be better. On the downside the map is not transferable, though I do need to fix up the map anyway.
[COLOR="#FF0000"]Is 1.7 bar too much ?? Do I need to re-evaluate how much boost to run[/COLOR] and FYI I didnt run the full bore boost on the road (just actuator pressure).[/QUOTE]
The fact that Dean only runs 1.3 bar, and is quicker than the rest of us probably means you should be looking at other short falls in the car, the set up, or maybe even the driver. ;)
Post 738421 by MoleT-5R on 2014-09-30 23:53:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738418]I don't think I am done yet either - even though I said in January this was the last roll of the dice.
There are also other technical reasons for wanting a later ME7 C70 - particularly in reference to the tacho signal for the Blitz. Due to the early nature of the wiring loom it is near impossible to get the right signal. I've had to make do.
Even the MY2000 has a slightly different loom and a signal you can easily tap from the binnacle.
Then the cosmetic issues and the fact that the black one is black (a preferred colour) and has the coilovers I've been after and the ETM may well be better. On the downside the map is not transferable, though I do need to fix up the map anyway.
Is 1.7 bar too much ?? Do I need to re-evaluate how much boost to run and FYI I didnt run the full bore boost on the road (just actuator pressure).[/QUOTE]
some good reasons there Dave, so with those in mind I can no longer comment on it, Just didn't want you to give up on what I think is a great car, but I do see where you think the shortfalls are with Betsy ( is this just a harness issue and can you upgrade it or tap in elsewhere ) best of luck in which ever way you go mate
Post 738423 by graemewelch on 2014-10-01 00:07:39
first thing id be looking at is why has the head failed. Oil in each cylinder suggests the head has lifted to me. If it was gasket failure then youd only expect isues with on or two pots. Chin up though dave youve got another winter to play with it and get it write. On the mapping side it might be worth having a bit crack with john. He seems to have the me7 stuff sussed out
Post 738432 by T5frankie on 2014-10-01 04:26:30
Sounds like what happened to my red 850r, I'd take the engine to where Jim had his built seems to be a much more reliable build his is mapped at 2 bar remember and never has any issues.
Post 738436 by claymore on 2014-10-01 07:47:12
1.7bar (25psi) is nowhere near enough to lift a head, mine was fine at 2.4bar until it split a liner and still runs 2 bar with the liner repair.
Post 738453 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-10-01 09:53:48
Back in March following a "Watch this" demo with a friend, I accidentally spiked the engine to 2.4 bar, because the MBC hose was kinked following the reworking of the engine top mount or something innocuous.
I had sniffer tested it since then and it came up clear but I can't think it would have helped.
No I am of a mind to buy the black one - for political reasons as well as practical, as it will show that I have listened to Ellen's advice about getting a new project car. Still mulling it over.
Post 738458 by p fandango on 2014-10-01 10:03:39
Your still going to have to either fix this engine, or fit the rods into the blacks current engine so got a good chance of having the same issues. But now you've got the time & extra expense of putting it all into the new car
An etm shouldnt be a hard fix for the right person, yes coil-overs are expensive to buy but is it just in buying a whole car for
Post 738487 by smithy on 2014-10-01 12:54:30
What about the c70 gt t5 in Scotland did that sell and that was pre me7 too .remember keep the Mrs happy to keep the projects going .
Post 738489 by stribo on 2014-10-01 13:07:26
[QUOTE=smithy;738487]What about the c70 gt t5 in Scotland did that sell and that was pre me7 too .remember keep the Mrs happy to keep the projects going .[/QUOTE]
I think Flying Banana still has it.
Post 738490 by oblark on 2014-10-01 13:10:50
Sort out the engine by changing the head gasket.
Then de-me7 it and fit it a pre me7 car.
Post 738493 by JT on 2014-10-01 13:27:16
Why change the car at all??
Fix the engine= happy days???
Post 738496 by V70 Graham on 2014-10-01 13:45:31
It's got now't to do with me but I quite like Betsy.
Post 738500 by Wobbly Dave on 2014-10-01 14:17:09
[QUOTE=p fandango;738458]Your still going to have to either fix this engine, or fit the rods into the blacks current engine so got a good chance of having the same issues. But now you've got the time & extra expense of putting it all into the new car
An etm shouldnt be a hard fix for the right person, yes coil-overs are expensive to buy but is it just in buying a whole car for[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=JT][COLOR=#3E3E3E]Why change the car at all?? [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#3E3E3E]Fix the engine= happy days???[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
It is not just a single issue or I would agree changing the car just for coilovers is a pointless exercise. I think it is taken as read that the engine will be fixed regardless. It is too expensive to redevelop a different engine for a 3rd time.
Reasons for buying the black one
Coilovers
paintwork
Arches have not been rolled - which is why I have issues with Betsy not least on the bumper fit and rust.
Rust on Betsy's A-Pillar on can only be sorted by putting in a new windscreen vs. the cosmetic rust on the black bonnet, far easier to do.
ETM - already been "fixed" but needs calibrating - which means losing the current map on Betsy.
SBS is working properly AFAIK
Possible Later loom model year (TBC)
Interior
Exterior - Cosmetics I like the black one for the colour - it has a sunroof and I like the alloys.
I'd be able to sell some bits like wheels, engine. gearbox and spares to cover the costs or to retain as spare stock going fwd.
Luck?
Politically it would look like I was changing to a new project car?
Reasons for staying with the SSB - most of which are time constraints
Loss of map - remapping the new ECU.
Loss of money on the repaired ETM.
New car paint will need mopping out to my own standard.
Swapping the ICE inc. Hands Free, antenna downswitch
Swapping the HIDs ?
Swapping the fixed engine and other up-rated parts - ARBs, exhaust, Blitz SBC, DW300 Fuel pump.
Having invested in refreshing the VVT on the new engine - I don't really want to junk the ME7 - plus I am a stubborn old git and still think I can make it work.
Post 738617 by smithy on 2014-10-01 20:00:45
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;738500]It is not just a single issue or I would agree changing the car just for coilovers is a pointless exercise. I think it is taken as read that the engine will be fixed regardless. It is too expensive to redevelop a different engine for a 3rd time.
Reasons for buying the black one
Coilovers
paintwork
Arches have not been rolled - which is why I have issues with Betsy not least on the bumper fit and rust.
Rust on Betsy's A-Pillar on can only be sorted by putting in a new windscreen vs. the cosmetic rust on the black bonnet, far easier to do.
ETM - already been "fixed" but needs calibrating - which means losing the current map on Betsy.
SBS is working properly AFAIK
Possible Later loom model year (TBC)
Interior
Exterior - Cosmetics I like the black one for the colour - it has a sunroof and I like the alloys.
I'd be able to sell some bits like wheels, engine. gearbox and spares to cover the costs or to retain as spare stock going fwd.
Luck?
Politically it would look like I was changing to a new project car?
Reasons for staying with the SSB - most of which are time constraints
Loss of map - remapping the new ECU.
Loss of money on the repaired ETM.
New car paint will need mopping out to my own standard.
Swapping the ICE inc. Hands Free, antenna downswitch
Swapping the HIDs ?
Swapping the fixed engine and other up-rated parts - ARBs, exhaust, Blitz SBC, DW300 Fuel pump.
Having invested in refreshing the VVT on the new engine - I don't really want to junk the ME7 - plus I am a stubborn old git and still think I can make it work.[/QUOTE]
If you really want to stick to me7 then get the black one as long as the is no rust on the car .if so then get the last of the c70 model you have and start a fresh .u can also sell the stuff off new car too
Post 738634 by T5frankie on 2014-10-01 20:14:52
seb has a really nice 2002 model supposed to be the tits
Post 755066 by Nealevo on 2015-01-08 17:08:41
You won't regret the BCs mate, and good luck with the rest of the rebuild
Post 755067 by M-R-P on 2015-01-08 17:10:37
Nice to see an update Dave,
Speedy swede award next year?
Post 755071 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-01-08 17:18:18
[QUOTE=M-R-P;755067]Nice to see an update Dave,
Speedy swede award next year?[/QUOTE] Only if the award runs Feb>> August LOL
Personally I think SSB is a misnomer - surely FANY (Fix Again Next Year) or Lotus (Lots of Trouble usually serious) is more suitable? And yes I did plagiarize TG for the latter.
I think after all the money I have spent/will continue to spend I deserve a bit of luck this year.
Post 755073 by WOODY T5 on 2015-01-08 17:29:15
Well if u dont do it this year u can borrow my turbo next year dave good luck tho ;)
Post 755087 by Jamest5r on 2015-01-08 18:38:54
Great to see some progress mate, once the heads back on and you get some logging/mapping done the full potential will be released, I'll see you at the strip but not until the summer for me as I have a good bit of work to do on mine.
Post 755092 by stribo on 2015-01-08 18:50:50
Glad to see you haven't given up on it mate, must get around to sorting mine.
Post 764795 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-21 23:25:52
Spent some more time on the rebuild today. Sorted out the timing - CVVT was off and I had about 5 attempts getting it to line up properly. I swear I was about to set fire to it. Sadly because (as some of you may know) my mum is terminally ill so on top of a hectic home life there has been even less time to dedicate to the rebuild. I hope to make York but that may be all I get this year.
So anyway on the final attempt I tweaked the exhaust sprocket to take out the slack between the inlet sprocket and the belt so it fitted exactly. Span it round a few times and got it to come back onto the marks. YAY! - What a PITA.I have the exhaust manifold and turbo to refit then a few other bits but then we should be able to fire her up.
Anyway she has been there long enough now that she's acquired stickers!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28416[/ATTACH]
Post 764797 by stribo on 2015-03-21 23:31:14
Sorry to hear about your Mum mate, not good at all. When we had the exhaust VVT unit replaced on the R the indie had trouble getting it right.
Post 764812 by jdavis on 2015-03-22 05:53:23
glad to see your sticking with it.
sorry to hear about your mum
Post 764821 by Dream3r on 2015-03-22 08:37:44
Glad to see your are sticking with it, if you want my datalogger I'll need a copy of the original file, before whoever tuned it, so I can make the definition.
Tuned files work but I don't want or need them as it can alienate the tuner.
You'll have to let me know for sure as I was thinking about removing it from sale after April as there has been zero sales.
Best of luck matey.
Post 764950 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-22 22:46:23
The guy in Sweden has wrapped up his tuning business so the ability to change the original file is extremely limited or unlikely. I just want a viable alternative to Torque which despite investment in an expensive ODBII Bluetooth interface. No-one else is likely to invest in developing the relevant software for such an old car.
Post 764980 by Dream3r on 2015-03-23 10:32:36
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;764950]The guy in Sweden has wrapped up his tuning business so the ability to change the original file is extremely limited or unlikely. I just want a viable alternative to Torque which despite investment in an expensive ODBII Bluetooth interface. No-one else is likely to invest in developing the relevant software for such an old car.[/QUOTE]
I thought it was mapped @ HLM? If so they are the tuner and have wholesaled it? At least that's how I think it would normally work?
Torque has it's place for sure but is limited and fairly slow.
Assuming the above is true then I'd really want something from HLM to say that they're happy having the car read, if it wasn't HLM then I guess it's up-to you.
I just don't want to step on anyone's toes. Plus there may be failsafes (copy protection) built-in to the ECU software by the tuner that may cause issues if it's read out, I have some custom written assembler code that causes chaos (in my development stage 4 map on my car) when readout/copied, for example. That part is unlikely though.
Post 765020 by Biff on 2015-03-23 15:31:45
Sorry to hear about your mum Dave. With your family I'm suprised you have done anything.
Hope things work out & you get to put the poops up woody.
Sorry woody. Lol
Post 765076 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-23 21:45:31
[QUOTE=Dream3r;764980]I thought it was mapped @ HLM? If so they are the tuner and have wholesaled it? At least that's how I think it would normally work?
Torque has it's place for sure but is limited and fairly slow.
Assuming the above is true then I'd really want something from HLM to say that they're happy having the car read, if it wasn't HLM then I guess it's up-to you.
I just don't want to step on anyone's toes. Plus there may be failsafes (copy protection) built-in to the ECU software by the tuner that may cause issues if it's read out, I have some custom written assembler code that causes chaos (in my development stage 4 map on my car) when readout/copied, for example. That part is unlikely though.[/QUOTE]
The custom 19T map (the 4th custom map I had for that turbo) was put onto the car by Hamish but the file came from a Swedish tuner and certainly I got the best result out of the 4 that I tried - including RICA.
I cannot seek any further improvements as much as I would have liked to with that guy - because he sold up and is doing work for Chrysler or Ford or Polestar or something really big and expensive. There was talk way back when about data logger etc but nothing ever came of it. Given that the person who wrote the file is not involved or contactable anymore & this is a non-transferable map as it was unique to my setup at the time, I think it is fairly safe to assume I can do as I please.
The map is at least 6 years old. To be honest it is probably time to draw a line under it and look to a new file (or build on the top of this one??) - but without the data logger I am running a bit blind. I've been talking to Shemtek over the last couple of days & maybe we can do some work in redeveloping the dp/turbine housing collector, but before I trot off down that route I really need to get a better picture of what is going on.
Post 765118 by t5 pete on 2015-03-24 13:27:24
Keep up the good work dave will be good to see it at York again and while your not running it I can look after that nice turbo of your s
Post 765131 by MA'R'K on 2015-03-24 14:13:24
I defo admire the intensity Dave!!!! Goes way over my head though.... unless I can see and touch something it's all Greek to me :lol:
Post 765133 by Rebel Rebel on 2015-03-24 14:31:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;755071]Only if the award runs Feb>> August LOL
Personally I think SSB is a misnomer - surely FANY (Fix Again Next Year) or Lotus (Lots of Trouble usually serious) is more suitable? And yes I did plagiarize TG for the latter.
I think after all the money I have spent/will continue to spend I deserve a bit of luck this year.[/QUOTE]
Surely sticking with the volvo theme would be more appropriate - IRS
I roll sometimes...
Post 765147 by Dream3r on 2015-03-24 16:14:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765076]The custom 19T map (the 4th custom map I had for that turbo) was put onto the car by Hamish but the file came from a Swedish tuner and certainly I got the best result out of the 4 that I tried - including RICA.
I cannot seek any further improvements as much as I would have liked to with that guy - because he sold up and is doing work for Chrysler or Ford or Polestar or something really big and expensive. There was talk way back when about data logger etc but nothing ever came of it. Given that the person who wrote the file is not involved or contactable anymore & this is a non-transferable map as it was unique to my setup at the time, I think it is fairly safe to assume I can do as I please.
The map is at least 6 years old. To be honest it is probably time to draw a line under it and look to a new file (or build on the top of this one??) - but without the data logger I am running a bit blind. I've been talking to Shemtek over the last couple of days & maybe we can do some work in redeveloping the dp/turbine housing collector, but before I trot off down that route I really need to get a better picture of what is going on.[/QUOTE]
As long as HLM are happy about that matey.
Post 765149 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-24 16:50:15
[QUOTE=MA'R'K;765131]I defo admire the intensity Dave!!!! Goes way over my head though.... unless I can see and touch something it's all Greek to me :lol:[/QUOTE]
Let me illuminate you then. There was a discussion on social media between myself and a nottingham-based volvo specialist - Shemtek - that perhaps I should be disappointed with the results of the turbo and some of it may be down to higher than normal exhaust gas temperatures EGT. Shemtek said that I had the wrong turbine housing and that the one I had bought would be artificially increasing the EGTs. This is all purely conjecture without some proof. So I was looking to Dream3r to provide me with some data logging so I could get the WOT values for EGT amongst other things. At the moment the amount of data I have is limited to merely 10 runs on HLM's dynojet from last year.
https://youtu.be/1Kc7zyr9KLc
There probably is some wisdom in changing the collector after the turbo to either include a separate exhaust pipe just for the wastegate...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28452[/ATTACH]
using this flange that works with the GTX housing
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28453[/ATTACH]
as opposed to what I have right now -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28450[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28451[/ATTACH]
or even a wide mouth collector welded onto a 5 bolt flange.
Post 765150 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-24 16:59:29
Even though the space is tight - I think the dedicated 2" W/G exhaust pipe is a better option as it means minimal changes to the actuator. Removing the V-band and altering the DP slightly is much easier.
Post 765208 by Dream3r on 2015-03-24 22:55:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765149]Let me illuminate you then. There was a discussion on social media between myself and a nottingham-based volvo specialist - Shemtek - that perhaps I should be disappointed with the results of the turbo and some of it may be down to higher than normal exhaust gas temperatures EGT. Shemtek said that I had the wrong turbine housing and that the one I had bought would be artificially increasing the EGTs. This is all purely conjecture without some proof. So I was looking to Dream3r to provide me with some data logging so I could get the WOT values for EGT amongst other things. At the moment the amount of data I have is limited to merely 10 runs on HLM's dynojet from last year.
https://youtu.be/1Kc7zyr9KLc
There probably is some wisdom in changing the collector after the turbo to either include a separate exhaust pipe just for the wastegate...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28452[/ATTACH]
using this flange that works with the GTX housing
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28453[/ATTACH]
as opposed to what I have right now -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28450[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28451[/ATTACH]
or even a wide mouth collector welded onto a 5 bolt flange.[/QUOTE]
I'm sorry to say that ME7 has an EGT reading but it's only a modeled one based on engine VE and relative cylinder charge, yours will be miles off. There is no EGT sensor to speak of.
Post 765211 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-24 23:17:34
I don't know why I imagined that the value could pull it off the top o2 sensor - derrr!
Can I wire one in? (goes off to the internet to find out)
Post 765213 by Dream3r on 2015-03-24 23:28:19
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765211]I don't know why I imagined that the value could pull it off the top o2 sensor - derrr!
Can I wire one in? (goes off to the internet to find out)[/QUOTE]
Lol, yes of course. But to integrate it into the ecu would require something special written in assembly code. A simple gauge would be easier.
Post 765217 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-25 00:45:14
My blitz i-color sadly cannot be expanded to include EGTs - only AFR and I would have to buy the MMD upgrade to include it and even then [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Verdana]There are 2 plugs for optional sensors. One is strictly for Temperature and the other is for either Pressure OR A/F Analyser. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Verdana]The unit is not able to display both Pressure and A/F. [/FONT][/COLOR]
Blitz's EGT standalone gauge is quite expensive at 200 quid.
Not sure which gauge to get.
Post 765218 by jamesy12345 on 2015-03-25 00:54:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765211]I don't know why I imagined that the value could pull it off the top o2 sensor - derrr!
Can I wire one in? (goes off to the internet to find out)[/QUOTE]
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=175
??
Post 765222 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-25 01:16:46
Do I really need to tap my exhaust manifold?
Post 765226 by jamesy12345 on 2015-03-25 07:08:23
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;765218]http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=175
??[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765222]Do I really need to tap my exhaust manifold?[/QUOTE]
that's what the advice seems to say. The guy (Chris) is pretty knowledgeable if you give him a call. I was thinking about getting one for the Renault and would need to go into the manifold also if I wanted to fit the sensor before turbo..although that is a tubular one so would be less of a worry - drawn piping as opposed to a cast item
Post 765227 by Rnash2002 on 2015-03-25 07:44:56
Would it not be easyer to change the turbo all together?
Post 765228 by jamesy12345 on 2015-03-25 07:50:43
[QUOTE=Rnash2002;765227]Would it not be easyer to change the turbo all together?[/QUOTE]
no disrespect to Shem by any means - but change the turbo based on the advice of one guy? I think we haven't seen all this turbo can do yet...although 400 hp is not small
Post 765230 by Rnash2002 on 2015-03-25 07:56:12
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;765228]no disrespect to Shem by any means - but change the turbo based on the advice of one guy? I think we haven't seen all this turbo can do yet...although 400 hp is not small[/QUOTE]
Yes i see your point but if Dave is struggling to make more power with more boost then something is wrong?
Post 765234 by claymore on 2015-03-25 08:07:34
[QUOTE=Rnash2002;765230]Yes i see your point but if Dave is struggling to make more power with more boost then something is wrong?[/QUOTE]
I think the main reason Dave isn't getting the power is the modified 19T map, I think if it was mapped properly he would see in excess of 450bhp, although I still question the size of his boost pipes and I would be inclined to change the exhaust housing for something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Downpipe-Flange-for-GT28-GT28RS-GT2871R-GT3071R-V-band-2-5-Turbo-Exhaust-V-band-/271759793545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f46255d89
Post 765238 by Rnash2002 on 2015-03-25 08:11:00
[QUOTE=claymore;765234]I think the main reason Dave isn't getting the power is the modified 19T map, I think if it was mapped properly he would see in excess of 450bhp, although I still question the size of his boost pipes and I would be inclined to change the exhaust housing for something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Downpipe-Flange-for-GT28-GT28RS-GT2871R-GT3071R-V-band-2-5-Turbo-Exhaust-V-band-/271759793545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f46255d89[/QUOTE]
Did not know it was a 19t map on there, now that could be one of the problems then.
Post 765240 by jamesy12345 on 2015-03-25 08:11:21
[QUOTE=Rnash2002;765230]Yes i see your point but if Dave is struggling to make more power with more boost then something is wrong?[/QUOTE]
Yosser was very successful getting his (now my) S70R custom mapped for the mods on his car - I think the forum should have a whip round and fund 3 new maps from different tuners for comparison for Wobbly, in the name of science :). It's not all about peak numbers anyway....depends how the car drives & what it will be used for.
Post 765258 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-25 11:59:08
[QUOTE=claymore;765234]I think the main reason Dave isn't getting the power is the modified 19T map, I think if it was mapped properly he would see in excess of 450bhp, although I still question the size of his boost pipes and I would be inclined to change the exhaust housing for something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Downpipe-Flange-for-GT28-GT28RS-GT2871R-GT3071R-V-band-2-5-Turbo-Exhaust-V-band-/271759793545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f46255d89[/QUOTE]
My V-band is 3 inch and I think there might be some mileage in refining the design. But does everyone really think that this...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28455[/ATTACH]
is so restrictive. It is after all only the flow from the waste gate that has to turn the corner? How much gas come out of there?
Post 765259 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-25 12:03:50
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;765228]no disrespect to Shem by any means - but change the turbo based on the advice of one guy? I think we haven't seen all this turbo can do yet...although 400 hp is not small[/QUOTE]
The most I would do would be to change the collector. There is too much rework involved in changing the housing for benefit which is ATM speculative at best.
Post 765262 by Dream3r on 2015-03-25 12:42:35
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;765222]Do I really need to tap my exhaust manifold?[/QUOTE]
What happens if it breaks up in there? Exhaust housing maybe or in the DP and account for the temp difference somehow?
Post 765265 by t5 pete on 2015-03-25 13:08:17
Yeah dave get a new turbo ill ale use of your old one lol
Post 765267 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-03-25 13:39:24
Don't like the idea of tapping holes in cast pieces.
Post 766688 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-01 11:31:28
This garrett flange landed today (Volvo end cap for scale).
I have a mind to have a short divorced pipe run from the top for the Wastegate. Bearing in mind that the flap doesn't open fully (max angle - 30 to 45 degrees?) so the gas will still bounce around. The wastegate is still divorced in the housing anyway
I don't want to change the garrett housing because it will mean completely reworking the DP.
Rate things are going currently it will be winter again before this car is even back together.
Post 766698 by MoleT-5R on 2015-04-01 12:12:10
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;766688]This garrett flange landed today (Volvo end cap for scale).
I have a mind to have a short divorced pipe run from the top for the Wastegate. Bearing in mind that the flap doesn't open fully (max angle - 30 to 45 degrees?) so the gas will still bounce around. The wastegate is still divorced in the housing anyway
I don't want to change the garrett housing because it will mean completely reworking the DP.
Rate things are going currently it will be winter again before this car is even back together.[/QUOTE]
will you be getting Graeme to modify your downpipe to include the new wastegate output and eliminate the v-band, or will you be starting from scratch ??
Post 766721 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-01 13:43:11
No I will go back to Chris Tullett, where the DP was made if anywhere. It is likely that additional tubing will need to be added to the existing 3 inch pipe because the low profile v-band adaptor was taller although it is possible to weld another 3 inch v-band flange on the new flange - but the design begins to get too complicated.
The only other way would be to remove the middle piece in this flange, create a bellmouth collector based around the whole thing and collect it into a V-band. Not particularly keen on this, as this is essentially what the original cast low profile thing does - albeit a bit more tightly packaged.
No I think a short divorced pipe is as good as a divided bell-mouth.
At the end of the day I am trying to design something that is relatively cheap to achieve for the minimum amount of changes and maximum free flow. The gas in the main channel even now hits no change of direction till it is into the dp.
My other thoughts include using this new flange to create an angle v-band , to reduce the turn on the dp itself. But this is again means throwing away the current DP.
Nah - I am getting a divorce(d).
Post 766811 by Rebel Rebel on 2015-04-01 20:11:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;766688]This garrett flange landed today (Volvo end cap for scale).
[/QUOTE]
Nice flange WD!
Post 766889 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-01 21:07:55
Yes you can't beat a good bit of flange.
Post 769313 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-20 17:37:12
Well only a small update to say that I got sometime on the SSB on Saturday. I think I have broken the back of the main re-assembly. Turbo and exhaust manifold are back on. At the moment despite the new flange thing - I am just running to get it running again, if you know what I mean. I am not sure there is room to pass the brake servo??!
I need to order a new cam end cap (where you non-ME7 peeps have that ancient thing called a distributor cap)
and 1 or 2 ancillaries. Just the DP to reattach, put the coilpacks in, air feed, water and oil.
If it doesn't go bang after the May dyno run - then perhaps I may look at re-designing some of the DP/collector section, but I would like to get my coilovers on and finish the new pipe work (I bought the DO88 in the end)- but it needs a TIAL flange welding on to it.
Post 769351 by MoleT-5R on 2015-04-20 21:46:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;769313]Well only a small update to say that I got sometime on the SSB on Saturday. I think I have broken the back of the main re-assembly. Turbo and exhaust manifold are back on. At the moment despite the new flange thing - I am just running to get it running again, if you know what I mean. I am not sure there is room to pass the brake servo??!
I need to order a new cam end cap (where you non-ME7 peeps have that ancient thing called a distributor cap)
and 1 or 2 ancillaries. Just the DP to reattach, put the coilpacks in, air feed, water and oil.
If it doesn't go bang after the May dyno run - then perhaps I may look at re-designing some of the DP/collector section, but I would like to get my coilovers on and finish the new pipe work (I bought the DO88 in the end)- but it needs a TIAL flange welding on to it.[/QUOTE]
good to hear your making progress on the SSB and look forward to see it on the road again soon
Post 770521 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-28 00:54:12
Did a lot today. Replaced the 2 water hose connectors for the oil cooler. Aux belt back on and pretty much everything else. Mocked up the top pipe from the DO88 RIP kit - and marked the position for the tial flange. Unfortunately the one in the kit is aluminium so I will have to wait for a S/S one to land.
Hamish was his usual supportive self LOL. First restarts are always a bit terrifying...
https://youtu.be/2hi6NtERmWQ
Found out what the problem was - namely there was no fuel left in the tank. Soon rectified and she caught on the 3 or 4th turn. Bit more fettling/re-assurance (checking for leaks etc) but a very satisfying.
Post 770526 by stribo on 2015-04-28 06:22:51
Great news mate.
Post 770528 by Jamest5r on 2015-04-28 06:26:29
Nice one :)
Post 770531 by jamesy12345 on 2015-04-28 07:50:39
She's alive....will be ready for RR day..?
Post 770534 by t5 pete on 2015-04-28 08:39:31
Awesome news dave
Post 770539 by V70 Graham on 2015-04-28 09:36:02
Great news, well done Dave.
Post 770540 by Ettienne on 2015-04-28 09:40:47
Result, hopefully you'll get some good times and bhp figures
Post 770545 by MoleT-5R on 2015-04-28 10:34:47
well done, will be nice to see what she can do now
Post 770548 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-04-28 11:48:49
Without making any other changes I am expecting a small improvement because the exhaust cam timing may well have been slightly out.
Next comes the suspension change - perhaps Saturday if I can get the time - surprisingly without the need to remove my driveshafts. Check for leaks and give her a long awaited wash.
After that I am looking to consolidate and get some decent data logging.
Post 770550 by Hound on 2015-04-28 12:37:37
Without the need to remove the driveshafts..? But James said.... oh wait. :cuckoo:
Post 770552 by Ettienne on 2015-04-28 13:09:54
Funnily I changed, shock legs, wishbones, drop links, krust and underseal the wheel arches without the need to fiddle with the brakes or remove driveshafts.
Post 773069 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 00:13:06
I bought my Silver C70 T5 9 years ago in April/May 2006 - so I am not new to this game - like anyone would need telling that. For 6 years (basically from box to bin) I ran a TD04-19T on that car with varied success. Since the end of 2012 I've been pushing the envelope with this GTX garrett conversion project.
Lets face it - I haven't been very successful with it to date. Span a shell on the 1st engine within 6 months in 2013 and last year the Garrett managed separated the block from the head.
I was hopeful that the damage was limited to just the headbolts. I got a set of ARP headbolts and have duly been trying to rebuild.
So after a quick wash and refuel - I had high hopes last Saturday that the leak free engine was going to be ok.
So after initial DTC resolution (new coil packs on 3 & 5) I went out for a run. It was enough to know that the engine is not good. I emptied the expansion tank of water twice on a short 3 mile run.
You can see here before I went out on the shakedown run that not all was well. Well it only got worse.
[video=youtube_share;9CfExBVnUNo]http://youtu.be/pcIpnMXX4fI[/video]
I ran a sniffer test (to see if there were combustion gases in the water). This was negative.
Turns out that through either miscommunication or assumption the refitted head wasn't checked (pressure tested), prior to re-assembly.
I think it is fairly safe to assume that with the age of the turbo (virtually new) and the fact that when the water feed was temporarily clamped, it made no difference to the water consumption that the head is cracked. On the bright side the bottom end seems sound enough.
So what now. Well I am obviously very disappointed with the outcome. This stuff has kept me awake for 2 nights already this week.
My situation is that I have very little spare cash due to the Euro downturn since last Nov (damned Greeks), a dying mother on the IoW, busy home life with 4 girls all under 3 y/o. The resulting lack of time plus a few issues with the house that need resolving, means time to work on the SSB is very limited too. I promised to take my family away on holiday this summer - breaks have been few and far between.
I can no longer keep the C70 out of the way at HLM, plus it is too far away to work on. I know that Hamish is not keen to work on it, plus he has no employees to assist. At the same time I don't want to admit defeat and despite Hamish's insistence that this will never work. So on the one hand I have a car that has been pretty unreliable for the last 2 and a bit years, I know my wife doesn't believe in it - I sit here trying to answer the question - "When did I last enjoy it?".
The issue is that I am not certain the project is sustainable or reliable enough with the current design. Clearly the turbo is capable of tearing the engine to bits. It has long since stopped being a car I could use regularly because I don't want to use up the mileage on knife-edge reliability.
The options are
Break the car for bits. Recovery of costs but fundamentally heartbreaking.
Sell as a whole/going concern. Unlikely to achieve anything like what it is worth in parts, particularly in a broken state.
Stick a sheet over it on the driveway. Limited tolerance from her indoors, but at least I could work on it.
Find a sympathetic mechanic to help get her up and running again. Expensive.
I am finding it very hard to give this up, but on the other hand does it really add up to a hill of beans. Will anyone give 2 hoots if I beat Dean or not? But there again does any of this matter??
Even if I fix it - will it tear itself apart again - or more over how long will it take to tear itself apart? Is the design fundamentally flawed?
I've looked long and hard for something I could get interested in and either it is too expensive (I don't really want to take on any more credit commitments ATM) or just not floating my boat.
I am fairly settled on not giving up just yet, but with all of this ^^^ bombing around my head every night - no small wonder I am not getting much sleep. I appreciate anyone taking the time given the length of this post
Post 773076 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 01:02:05
Most immediate issue is I have maybe 2 weeks tops to get the SSB moved to a new location. I'd rather not waste money moving it more than once. I think bringing it home is most likely.
Post 773077 by Shinsplintz 101 on 2015-05-15 06:07:56
I sympathise fella, its no fun driving a car you don't trust, especially if you've poured your heart, soul & most of the contents of your wallet into it. Have you thought about just returning it to standard? Remove your lump & custom DP & just drop in a standard t5 lump & DP [and probably the ecu]. Relatively inexpensive & at least the car will drive whilst you sort out the modified lump as & when funds allow - plus its easier to store an engine rather than a whole car :)
I wish you well which ever way you go but try to resist breaking it if you can, I think you may regret it further down the road...but sometimes needs must
All the best, Morgan
Post 773079 by S70T5Chris on 2015-05-15 06:37:27
Wow, Dave. I really feel for you mate. We've sat on different sides of the fence on occasion over the last 10+ years, but the fact is we have know each other for quite some time now and it was actually quite hard to read what you put above, quite saddening.
First things first. As much as we all absolutely love our cars, and it is incredibly heartbreaking when they go bad (I've been there), it's just a thing. We all deserve and need our hobbies and interests, we work hard for it, but if something is dragging you down to the point where you're not sleeping, hemorrhaging money and feeling like you do, maybe it's time to pull the plug. At least for a while. Cover it up and forget it for 6 months.
And don't be daft enough to worry about the expectations of everyone. Whether it's running well or not, whether you're faster than Dean or not, whether your driving the 400bhp monster everyone would want or not... It's hard I know, I've been there. But in the grand scheme of things it all means nothing mate, and no-one will think any less of you.
If there was any way I could help, I would and I really mean that. I'm fortunate enough that I have Tim, I just hand the car to him and he does what I need, and he's never let me down in fact he has gone way above and beyond on many occasions. Without him I wouldn't be where I am now and that is a fact. I don't know if Tim is your answer? I don't know if there is too much water under the bridge, or it just wouldn't be a viable option for him to inherit such a job, or viable for yourself?
I don't know what the answer is Dave, but moth balling it and walking away for a while sounds sensible to me. Forget the car, get your sanity back and then decide down the road how you want to continue.
All the best with what ever you decide.
Post 773085 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 09:31:07
Chris I appreciate your thoughts.
Does anyone actually believe it will work or is this just some stupid pipe dream. I've had the "300 bhp car" for 6 years (& I confess I got a little bored). In hindsight perhaps this last adventure is flawed? But the 19T was shot - all used up - and the old engine was beginning to chew water. So either it was time to quit or time to push on.
I think now I would only push on further with a re-think on the whole design. 1.7bar is from experience perhaps too knife-edge?
Post 773088 by S70T5Chris on 2015-05-15 09:46:59
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;773085]Chris I appreciate your thoughts.
Does anyone actually believe it will work or is this just some stupid pipe dream. I've had the "300 bhp car" for 6 years (& I confess I got a little bored). In hindsight perhaps this last adventure is flawed? But the 19T was shot - all used up - and the old engine was beginning to chew water. So either it was time to quit or time to push on.
I think now I would only push on further with a re-think on the whole design. 1.7bar is from experience perhaps too knife-edge?[/QUOTE]
It's not a pipe dream Dave. What you are after is quite achievable, it just needs the guidance of someone who knows what they are doing and how to get the best out of what you've got, not wishing to sound disrespectful to yourself, Hamish and others for where it's at right now. I have the utmost respect for the way you tackle a lot of the jobs yourself, I wouldn't know where to start. And it's not like you've skimped on cheap parts!
I don't think 1.7bar is high at all, let a lone knife edge for the turbo you've got.
Mapping is one of the biggest issues you face I think. Finding someone competent to cover that base would be the first bridge to cross I think.
Post 773096 by Jamest5r on 2015-05-15 10:47:28
Gutted to hear that news mate, I also have known you a fair amount of years now and we've had some great weekend's of racing, beer and banter :). By reading the above post is it solely the wanting of a new head that's now delaying the completion? if so I'm sure we could source one for you get Tim to fit it together and onto shark for mapping, i know it sounds simple when written like that and in reality it is funds allowing but don't give up mate.
Post 773100 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 12:21:56
I don't feel ready to give up, Jim just yet. There is a selfish core that says - how quick can I fix up the house issues so I can get back to getting it right? and feel quite guilty about it.
I miss the racing and the banter very much indeed, but without something vaguely competitive, what's the point of showing up. I've never been a good spectator.
For the very reason that you shouldn't be using a FWD Volvo on a drag strip, is the perverse reason for doing just that.
If I was to get into the 12s then would it matter? Probably not.
[CENTER]Here Lies David Palmer
Born 11.02.1972 Died XX.XX.20XX
Husband to Ellen
Father to 4 Daughters Erica, Zoe, Megan and Lydia
12.62 sec @ 115.4 MPH - Told you it would work!
Rest In Peace
[/CENTER]
Maybe I should alter my will now?
Certainly don't want the SSB to become grounds for divorce and Ellen in her good grace has said that she will not make me get rid.
Post 773109 by Gold 'N' Brown on 2015-05-15 14:04:08
My 2 cents worth....
Family is the most important thing, and from what you've said I'm amazed your managing to get by as it is, without car commitments! I find life draining enough with just one toddler! So put yourself and your family first, draw a line under it and move on. Bring it home, break it, make the most money you can, enjoy life for a while and move on to a new project some time in the future when circumstances are better.
I've a 205 GTI in my garage that's sat doing nothing for years. I've never enjoyed (had 3 before it that were great) it even before it was taken off the road, it's been a ball and chain around my ankle for years. I hate the bloody thing, but at the same time I can't bare to see it sold for peanuts. It's always a difficult decision when you've got so much time, money, love (or all 3) invested in a car, but some times you just have to sever the ties. I'm probably about 99% of the way to making that choice too.
Post 773110 by t5 pete on 2015-05-15 14:06:33
Just spend some time away from the car dave while doing the house and come back with a fresh mind and eager to get it right as said above I would seriously get in touch with Tim regarding it he's certainly pushing the boundaries with his set up and it's working he has some great knoledge of these engines and what works.
Post 773112 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 15:09:38
I am talking to Tim on T5D5 - I hope to put it to one side and crack on with the house for now.
Post 773124 by jamesy12345 on 2015-05-15 18:55:05
Easy to say, but...is it not just a case of sticking that head on it from Barnsley Bill, getting it custom mapped + adding a dash of nitrous then 12's here we come? Family comes first of course though, esp when someone is ill (sorry to hear that). As Chris & Peter said maybe step away from it a little. 400 hp is still a good achievement though IMO.
The roller coaster that is the Oil & gas industry should be picking up at some point, maybe next year.
Post 773131 by stribo on 2015-05-15 19:21:45
How much needs doing to the house Dave, is it just a case of a bunch of us descend on your house one Saturday, and do a D.I.Y. S.O.S. sort of job? If so, I'd gladly lend a hand, then once the house is sorted, you'll have more time for the family, and SSB.
Post 773138 by V70 Graham on 2015-05-15 19:37:16
[QUOTE=stribo;773131]How much needs doing to the house Dave, is it just a case of a bunch of us descend on your house one Saturday, and do a D.I.Y. S.O.S. sort of job? If so, I'd gladly lend a hand, then once the house is sorted, you'll have more time for the family, and SSB.[/QUOTE]
Not a bad idea, I can make tea !
Post 773144 by Jamest5r on 2015-05-15 20:03:51
[QUOTE=stribo;773131]How much needs doing to the house Dave, is it just a case of a bunch of us descend on your house one Saturday, and do a D.I.Y. S.O.S. sort of job? If so, I'd gladly lend a hand, then once the house is sorted, you'll have more time for the family, and SSB.[/QUOTE]
That's a very good idea Steve, I'm in and I'm sure Pete (master builder:))would come down and Ellen and the kid's could stay at mine for the weekend while it's sorted.
Post 773153 by Biff on 2015-05-15 20:55:13
Really sorry to read this Dave.
Completely understand where you are coming from with the family & low on time. I have 1 child so I don't know how you cope with your tribe.
If your lucky enough to have a daily I think your mad to get rid, in fact I think you would regret it when your wallet is flush & the kids have grown up a bit. Surely it's worth the ear bashing off the wife for a bit to get it sorted even if it's back on the 19t.
Problem is it will always find the week spots & will make it unreliable.
Me personally would want it reliable & putting a smile back on my face.
Post 773176 by JUDGENINJA on 2015-05-15 21:45:13
Dave - remember my 850 hasn't been on the road since 2006!!! I'm not giving up on it yet.. Maybe Tim is the way to go, maybe not.... But don't stress... Switch off.... Walk away for a while and don't even consider doing anything..... and if in the end it never gets done........ So what!!!! It was fun whilst it lasted.
Post 773182 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-05-15 22:15:42
Thank you all for your kind words. I am going to get the SSB transported to home.
As a family we do have a daily runner - many of you saw it at the last Shropshire meet. So the SSB can remain parked up - so there is no great rush to get the SSB back up and running. I am more worried that Dean will get bored and sell up.
I need to get the damp thing sorted. I've got a builder coming to look in a couple of weeks. The big headache is the artexing. Whole house is covered in it, save the bathroom & Kitchen and Ellen wants it gone. Not something that can be resolved in a weekend. Salting under the artex has pushed & cracked it off in places.
Post 786574 by Dream3r on 2015-09-23 00:47:28
maf = underscaled load = huge timing and knock on your aet map....
log it properly you will see, good luck
Post 787049 by Wobbly Dave on 2015-09-29 00:46:01
[QUOTE=Dream3r;786574]maf = underscaled load = huge timing and knock on your aet map....
log it properly you will see, good luck[/QUOTE]
Any chance of gettng some logging S/W?
Post 794422 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 00:33:51
Been a bit of a while since I last did or said anything on the silver dream machine. I rotated the wheels and pumped them up. I managed to find a couple of hours in the festive hols to have at least 1 look. Drained the oil out ready for the engine drop. The grey cappuccino that came out confirmed that more than likely have a cracked head. I am a little peeved that it wasn't checked properly but I guess there is no point dwelling on it.
On the bright side I have acquired a 2nd hand BBK and I still have the coilovers bought xmas 2014.
I managed to grab a pint with an engineering pal - he was on the team that developed the 5 litre V8 in most modern jags.
Assuming the bottom end is still sound - I have a spare head, so I think I will push on and redevelop it. port and polish the spare. I don't think the crack one will be repairable.
I plan to drop the turbo pressure back down to 1.5 to 1.6 bar, reduce the cylinder pressure, but to keep up the power, increase the rev limit. I need to reduce the rotational inertia. I plan to swap the DMF and have the clutch friction plate redeveloped to include springs
I am wondering if I need to have stiffer valve springs if I raise the limiter towards 8500 rpm?
More than anything I want a bit more stability, as time to fix things is low.
I also need some recommendations as to where to take this machine once it is back together.
Post 794424 by Dangerous Dave on 2016-01-05 01:16:12
Nice to hear you're forging ahead with it Dave :)
Look forward to future updates.
Post 794425 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 04:04:42
You need to keep it below 1.6 bar as it's past ME7 limits. 1.5 like you said but the boost pid will need work.
Scale your maf properly and up the load correctly in all maps, you can log timing and AFR with VIDA.
It's not just boost that has a affect on cylinder pressure either, you were running a big maf with no corrections, so would have been requesting 30 degrees timing instead of say 20, that would increase cylinder pressures a bit. AFR too.... it all adds up to heat.
Also think about CR
It's a good tuning job, get the maf, fueling and idle correct, then POWER :) the turbo will be later spooling rpm wise so use the lambda driver request map to dump a bit of preemptive fuel in there or you'll run lean.
I didn't see the post about logging software I don't sell it anymore :)
Post 794428 by claymore on 2016-01-05 07:56:47
I was running the T-5K when it was on the road at 8500rpm limit for over a year without any problems, it seemed to have a second wind over 7000rpm.
Post 794430 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 09:31:01
So you think the OEM valve springs will cope with the higher redline?
Post 794432 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 09:33:03
[QUOTE=Dream3r;794425]You need to keep it below 1.6 bar as it's past ME7 limits. 1.5 like you said but the boost pid will need work.
Scale your maf properly and up the load correctly in all maps, you can log timing and AFR with VIDA.
It's not just boost that has a affect on cylinder pressure either, you were running a big maf with no corrections, so would have been requesting 30 degrees timing instead of say 20, that would increase cylinder pressures a bit. AFR too.... it all adds up to heat.
Also think about CR
It's a good tuning job, get the maf, fueling and idle correct, then POWER :) the turbo will be later spooling rpm wise so use the lambda driver request map to dump a bit of preemptive fuel in there or you'll run lean.
I didn't see the post about logging software I don't sell it anymore :)[/QUOTE]
Any particular organisation you would care to recommend John, to take on this tuning task?
Post 794436 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 10:25:53
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794432]Any particular organisation you would care to recommend John, to take on this tuning task?[/QUOTE]
I'd have done it back in the day but it's not a basic remap, if it takes less than 2-3 lazy days it won't be done right. Really it needs done in stages than all at one, maf, injectors, power like I said before. It needs datalogged and an EGT gauge if not already so the calibrator can correctly set the exhaust temp maps.
I don't know why you didn't take my advice about the maf and injectors last year either so am a bit hesitant to say more buddy.
What turbo is on it again and injectors? I remember u saying it didn't idle very well that's fixable.
I'm turning my PM's back on if theirs anything you wish to as in private. It would be good to see it fly reliably. With my 2.4 map and ported head we were seeing around 350 bhp and was running out of fuel on the VXR's at 5 BAR fuel pressure absolute.
Post 794439 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 10:57:02
Last year (2015) nothing much occurred. There was a mechanical failure of the stretch head bolts (the whole cylinder head lifted) in Oct 2014 at the drag strip (Avon Park). Car was recovered and I asked HLM to take the head off and refit with ARP bolts
CH was not properly checked (don't ask:cussing:) so when the engine was reassembled - it appears to be consuming vast amounts of water - although the sniffer test was negative. I believe that the CH is cracked. I don't have 100% proof but the grey frappacino oil that came out last week would seem to imply that's where the water is going. I subsequently saw on a Swedish T5 build - they used stretch bolts which were double tightened (slackened off after the 1st tightening) on a 600 bhp build.
I am basically sort of back to the drawing board. I thought it would be good to draw a line under that one and re-use if possible the bottom end and build it up again.
Bottom line is Hamish doesn't want anymore of it - so I seek a like minded engine builder perhaps tim?? Shemtek? I don't really know.
I am still keen enough to not throw in the towel, though I find myself increasingly time limited.
The full spec is available in the garage. The spec is as follows
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Turbo Garrett GTX3071R - Spec...[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Compressor wheel - 11 blade[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Inducer – 54.10mm[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Exducer – 71.40mm[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Trim – 58[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Turbine Wheel[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Trim – 84[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Compressor A/R – 0.60.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]TIAL QR BOV (recirc) - DIY RIP kit (57mm).[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]ASNU 630cc (@ 3 BAR) Injectors - OEM 3.8 bar FPR[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Deatchwerks DW300 (300 lph) in tank fuel pump.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]K1 Tech forged 139.5 mm con rods.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Wiseco forged 81.5mm pistons[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Donor engine came from a 2001 S60 overhauled & bored out to match pistons.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Nissens 3" core FMIC (57mm O/D connections)[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Custom 3" DP (Chris Tullett) with 200 cell cat.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]4" MAF[/FONT][/COLOR]
Post 794448 by stribo on 2016-01-05 13:07:48
Good to see you've not given up on it Dave. :)
Post 794468 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 19:41:21
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794439]Last year (2015) nothing much occurred. There was a mechanical failure of the stretch head bolts (the whole cylinder head lifted) in Oct 2014 at the drag strip (Avon Park). Car was recovered and I asked HLM to take the head off and refit with ARP bolts
CH was not properly checked (don't ask:cussing:) so when the engine was reassembled - it appears to be consuming vast amounts of water - although the sniffer test was negative. I believe that the CH is cracked. I don't have 100% proof but the grey frappacino oil that came out last week would seem to imply that's where the water is going. I subsequently saw on a Swedish T5 build - they used stretch bolts which were double tightened (slackened off after the 1st tightening) on a 600 bhp build.
I am basically sort of back to the drawing board. I thought it would be good to draw a line under that one and re-use if possible the bottom end and build it up again.
Bottom line is Hamish doesn't want anymore of it - so I seek a like minded engine builder perhaps tim?? Shemtek? I don't really know.
I am still keen enough to not throw in the towel, though I find myself increasingly time limited.
The full spec is available in the garage. The spec is as follows
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Turbo Garrett GTX3071R - Spec...[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Compressor wheel - 11 blade[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Inducer – 54.10mm[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Exducer – 71.40mm[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Trim – 58[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Turbine Wheel[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Trim – 84[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Compressor A/R – 0.60.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]TIAL QR BOV (recirc) - DIY RIP kit (57mm).[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]ASNU 630cc (@ 3 BAR) Injectors - OEM 3.8 bar FPR[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Deatchwerks DW300 (300 lph) in tank fuel pump.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]K1 Tech forged 139.5 mm con rods.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Wiseco forged 81.5mm pistons[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Donor engine came from a 2001 S60 overhauled & bored out to match pistons.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Nissens 3" core FMIC (57mm O/D connections)[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Custom 3" DP (Chris Tullett) with 200 cell cat.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]4" MAF[/FONT][/COLOR][/QUOTE]
That was my point the cylinder pressures must have been huge to do that!
Post 794473 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 19:53:51
Contact Shem he might take it on as a project car, he's got a couple on the go already and is gaining quit a rep in the EU for Engine building.
The injectors seem small
Post 794481 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 20:39:36
AFR looked fine but 1.7bar is quite high.
Post 794483 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 20:59:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794481]AFR looked fine but 1.7bar is quite high.[/QUOTE]
Where was your ignition? I ran my R at 2 Bar to the redline in 6th at 11 degrees when I was developing the 5 bar mod.
It would be knocking like hell at that AFR and boost unless the timing was retarded.
Post 794484 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-05 21:32:03
sadly I don't know what the ignition timing was.
Post 794491 by Dream3r on 2016-01-05 23:16:10
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794484]sadly I don't know what the ignition timing was.[/QUOTE]
You can see it leaning out a bit on spool, that's fixable as well.
It's definitely under-scaled (via larger maf) as it would have dumped fuel at the top end there based on the load and Volvo's general EGT strategies for component protection.
I hope it works out and you get your engine builder etc :)
Post 794497 by Dream3r on 2016-01-06 05:54:07
Here's an early dev map log with the lean out fixed as I has the same issue (quicker spooling turbo when it starts lol), work still needed though at this stage. It was actually the inlet manifold or gasket as when I changed that out it ran a lot better (pressure sensor agreed with inlet manifold pressure map again). I wouldn't like more knock really but 5 is acceptable imo.
Food for thought, you can see the component protection dumping fuel (fixable as well, I limited it to 0.75 for this run).
Obviously your hardware is going to produce different results, but this was around 400bhp dev run, so similar in some respects, it also shows you what can be done with the correct tools, ME7 needs logged to tune, as you can probably see the injectors wasn't right when 0.75 was commanded (again fixed afterwards)
Edit, this was the 5 bar software i made so not limited.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30115[/ATTACH]
Post 794500 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-06 10:59:14
Sorry struggling to understand the graph - which legend refers to which Y axis. Can you also confirm my aging recollection that lambda 1 is a AFR of 14.7:1 right?
Is the avg knock retard the angle before TDC?
Post 794501 by Dream3r on 2016-01-06 12:13:39
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794500]Sorry struggling to understand the graph - which legend refers to which Y axis. Can you also confirm my aging recollection that lambda 1 is a AFR of 14.7:1 right?
Is the avg knock retard the angle before TDC?[/QUOTE]
Open the image in a new tab with a right click then you should see.
Lambda 1 is 14.7:1 AFR, yes sorry I never use AFR just lambda as that what the car uses.
retard is what the ecu is pulling from the various timing maps and is seen in the timing graph as it's already been taken in-to account. It's an average over 5 cylinders I have per cylinder counts too and about 60 other variables.
So blue = desired boost
red = actual
yellow = retard
purple = actual lambda
green = component protection lambda variable
You can see the fuel dive too far when it's activated, injectors are not linear so I adjusted for that later in another revision.
Post 794502 by jamesy12345 on 2016-01-06 12:43:58
[QUOTE=Dream3r;794501]Open the image in a new tab with a right click then you should see.
Lambda 1 is 14.7:1 AFR, yes sorry I never use AFR just lambda as that what the car uses.
retard is what the ecu is pulling from the various timing maps and is seen in the timing graph as it's already been taken in-to account. It's an average over 5 cylinders I have per cylinder counts too and about 60 other variables.
So blue = desired boost
red = actual
yellow = retard
purple = actual lambda
green = component protection lambda variable
You can see the fuel dive too far when it's activated, injectors are not linear so I adjusted for that later in another revision.[/QUOTE]
sorry to interrupt...on the graph max Lambda value looks to be about 0.87 or [0.87*14.7 =] 12.8:1....is that not a bit high at approx. 1.5 barg?
Post 794504 by Dream3r on 2016-01-06 13:21:17
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;794502]sorry to interrupt...on the graph max Lambda value looks to be about 0.87 or [0.87*14.7 =] 12.8:1....is that not a bit high at approx. 1.5 barg?[/QUOTE]
Which RPM range do you see that? part of the point of the post was to show how important logging is, clearly the injectors needed work at this point as it goes over rich when component protection kicks in, but you don't know without a tool like this. It's richer than Dave's though ;) this is where I found the best torque around 0.8 ish lambda
Post 794505 by jamesy12345 on 2016-01-06 13:46:40
[QUOTE=Dream3r;794504]Which RPM range do you see that? part of the point of the post was to show how important logging is, clearly the injectors needed work at this point as it goes over rich when component protection kicks in, but you don't know without a tool like this. It's richer than Dave's though ;) this is where I found the best torque around 0.8 ish lambda[/QUOTE]
In between 3800 and 3900 fella, purple line spikes across the 0.85 mark
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30116[/ATTACH]
I don't know much about it tbh but would expect 11's at high boost as you say
Post 794521 by Dream3r on 2016-01-06 20:00:52
Purples bts ram cell iirc mate not actual
Post 794609 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-08 12:08:41
Managed to get a few hours to begin the head removal. I probably have to drop the whole thing in the end, otherwise how am I to get the bottom end checked and get rid of the grey junk in the pan?
I've cleared the top & 2 sides of the engine (I wasnt rushing it). If the weather is clear again tonight - I will crack on with the cam belt and the exhaust manifold.
I confess I really enjoyed just pottering, doing it my way.
Post 794614 by Nealevo on 2016-01-08 14:53:34
Good to hear, I've just changed the engine and bits on mine and I have liked not having to rush and miss/beeak things, hopefully it will all work out well.
Post 794617 by Dangerous Dave on 2016-01-08 15:33:25
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;794609]
I confess I really enjoyed just pottering, doing it my way.[/QUOTE]
It is nice to have that intimacy with ones jalopy....
Post 794619 by t5 pete on 2016-01-08 15:54:57
I'm looking forward to seeing the ssb up and running again dave and if you can just hit that sweet spot for performance and a decent ammount of reliability that car should fly.
Is this eairly version of the me7 a total pain to tune I know people run large turbo on 4.3 amd 4.4 and don't seem to have much issues with tuning but when it gets into your car's era Ive never came across much.
Post 794737 by Dream3r on 2016-01-10 02:11:50
[QUOTE=t5 pete;794619]I'm looking forward to seeing the ssb up and running again dave and if you can just hit that sweet spot for performance and a decent ammount of reliability that car should fly.
Is this eairly version of the me7 a total pain to tune I know people run large turbo on 4.3 amd 4.4 and don't seem to have much issues with tuning but when it gets into your car's era Ive never came across much.[/QUOTE]
No in fact it's simpler to tune less maps etc.
Those XDF's are simple map packs but seen to-do the job for you guys.
8000 maps in med9.1 or so iirc 4000 in me9 I had to modify over 100 maps iirc for my 5 bar file with code changes to boot. It just gets more complex per generation. MED17 is well difficult.
You're using a mastersystem (8 bit) new cars have an xbox one ecu to put it into perspective
Post 794833 by GregE102 on 2016-01-11 02:35:21
[QUOTE=Dream3r;794737]No in fact it's simpler to tune less maps etc.
Those XDF's are simple map packs but seen to-do the job for you guys.
8000 maps in med9.1 or so iirc 4000 in me9 I had to modify over 100 maps iirc for my 5 bar file with code changes to boot. It just gets more complex per generation. MED17 is well difficult.
You're using a mastersystem (8 bit) new cars have an xbox one ecu to put it into perspective[/QUOTE]
What is a 5 bar file please?
Post 795333 by Dream3r on 2016-01-20 09:47:56
ME7 is limited to controlling 2500 mBar of boost I modified it over 7 months to allow it to support 5 bar as a personal challenge.
It's the only one in existence for 2005 Volvo, their is one for 2004 and we collaborated a bit and found one issue in his file and he was happy with mine. It's the ECU that runs the 800BHP German one, so potential for a mega build was there, but decided B8 S4 was better lol. It was fun though, if you like reading binary and hex and assembly.
Obliterated my power target as well so job done move on.
Post 795334 by Dream3r on 2016-01-20 09:51:48
[QUOTE=t5 pete;794619]I'm looking forward to seeing the ssb up and running again dave and if you can just hit that sweet spot for performance and a decent ammount of reliability that car should fly.
Is this eairly version of the me7 a total pain to tune I know people run large turbo on 4.3 amd 4.4 and don't seem to have much issues with tuning but when it gets into your car's era Ive never came across much.[/QUOTE]
It will take a bit of tuning for sure lol
Post 795444 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-22 23:31:39
I've managed to get the cams off and exposed more of the grey cappuccino water/oil mix underneath. Not great. [ATTACH=CONFIG]30177[/ATTACH]
Post 795446 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-22 23:46:33
The progress continued and the head is now off. There is a split in the liner in cylinder 2. The piston crown is quite clearly washed out and a palpable crack is apparent.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30179[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30178[/ATTACH]
I am going to clean up the head and get rid of the gunk - and get it tested.
As for the block - I have read about Colin's repair but I am still a bit dubious about reassembling on a clearly dodgy cylinder. So I can get another block and have it engineered for the wiseco oversized pistons (would new piston rings be needed?) - or go the more expensive route and buy a set of darton liners?
I am uncertain that the oily watery mess is caused by a split liner? So it may well be that both the head is cracked too. I am trying to remain positive.
Post 795447 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-23 00:08:21
Looking at the cylinder 3 pic in this previous post http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?26282-Silver-C70-T5-Manual-400BHP&p=755065&viewfull=1#post755065 it is possible that the pot was already cracked at the top.
Post 795448 by MoleT-5R on 2016-01-23 00:08:39
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795446]The progress continued and the head is now off. There is a split in the liner in cylinder 2. The piston crown is quite clearly washed out and a palpable crack is apparent.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30179[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30178[/ATTACH]
I am going to clean up the head and get rid of the gunk - and get it tested.
As for the block - I have read about Colin's repair but I am still a bit dubious about reassembling on a clearly dodgy cylinder. So I can get another block and have it engineered for the wiseco oversized pistons (would new piston rings be needed?) - or go the more expensive route and buy a set of darton liners?
I am uncertain that the oily watery mess is caused by a split liner? So it may well be that both the head is cracked too. I am trying to remain positive.[/QUOTE]
sorry to see the damage is this bad, I think is beyond the Colin fix as the split is outside the shimmed area, big jubilee clip or a new block in my book, man that must have been some boost spike WD, feel your pain but she will fly again..:)
Post 795450 by Jamest5r on 2016-01-23 00:11:17
That's not good news mate :(
Post 795452 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-23 00:21:38
So it looks like either the Darton route or new block (and get it shimmed properly this time). Which would be best?
Post 795453 by claymore on 2016-01-23 08:50:10
I think the shimming was fine, I just think the split was already there :( , it looks a lot worse than my split liner so I think you need another block :(
Post 795454 by MoleT-5R on 2016-01-23 09:09:13
I did see some talk about closing the deck, iirc Shem was able to do that but it did cost a bit.
is the block split on more than one cylinder dave ??
p.s only joking about jubilee clips
Post 795457 by stribo on 2016-01-23 10:39:43
Wow, how much boost were you running to split a liner on a 2.3 block? How about a shimmed 2.4 block for the next build?
Post 795462 by Nealevo on 2016-01-23 15:40:54
Dave I have a 2.3 complete engine if it helps 24000 from new. It was in my car, so I know it's healthy, don't know if it will fit in yours thou.
Post 795473 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-24 09:38:54
1.7bar
Post 795474 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-24 09:57:48
Still undecided as to which route to go.new engine is unnecessary. I picked up a spare head b4 xmas. There is a just a block on ebay however for darton liners i would reuse the current block as the cylinders get machined out.
Post 795475 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-24 10:09:14
I think i am leaning towards longevity so lower pressures but higher rpm so darton liners seems excessive.
Post 795477 by claymore on 2016-01-24 11:46:08
I would have a word with Shem, see if he's got any of his closed deck blocks left.
Post 795512 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-25 11:14:55
[SIZE=2]Thanks Jim but pressing them out isn't gonna save much money, as I suspect the engineering time required to re-introduce to another block will be as expensive as starting from scratch.
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Bought a 2nd hand block from e-bay in Germany from a 2003 S60.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=helvetica]Going to get it shimmed and honed and go from there. The oil/water mixing is only since the reassembly last year - never run properly. I will check the wiseco gudgeon wrist pins and see if they need replacing but bear in mind the reassemble engine has less than 5 miles on it. I will get new shells anyway, as the new block/crank ladder will be different.[/FONT][/COLOR]
I will get in touch with Tim or Shem to get the new block shimmed or closed completely.
Fingers crossed that the head is not cracked.[/SIZE]
Post 795514 by ExternalError on 2016-01-25 11:45:41
they do look a thing of real beauty in real life, they are a really professional job if mine wasn't shimmed already i'd be going closed deck
Post 795518 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-25 13:39:07
The annoying things is I asked MJA to put in some deck support when they were doing it the first time. No point crying over it now.
Post 795519 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-25 13:46:55
My only concern about closed desk is the issue of cooling.
Post 795520 by Doingitsideways on 2016-01-25 14:25:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795519]My only concern about closed desk is the issue of cooling.[/QUOTE]
To my knowledge, below the deck the liners still have coolant all around them, so still plenty of cooling.
Post 795522 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-25 15:28:44
I will be going down the Evans waterless coolant route this time anyway.
Post 795523 by GregE102 on 2016-01-25 15:34:46
I personally think Closed Decking is not necessary. If you really want to go down that path then there is other options which remove the cooling discussion of is cooling reduced or not and you can still have the liners shimmed as well http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/850-s70-v70-c70-s60-s80/products/2-5l-max-cool-block-reinforcement, Yes it's for a 2.5 block but I have also seen them in a 2.3 block I just can't remember who it was who had it?
A big freeze would help all remaining components of your build Dave
Post 795525 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-25 15:40:54
I am also looking to the cryogenic processing you pointed out.
Post 795526 by Yosser on 2016-01-25 16:08:14
There's a massive mud slinging fest over on Swedespeed about block guards : http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?278329-Re-Volv-Kaplhenke-Racing-BlockGuard-for-R-2-5L-Status
I have no real clue if it's worthwhile or not, but I suspect not - certainly for most of us.
Amongst all the poop flinging was a link to a Polish firm doing a similar thing ; http://satistech.com/offer/closing-volvo-engine-blocks/
That seemed to appeal to more folks than the other way on that thread. I don't know what Shem does to be fair.
Post 795531 by t5 pete on 2016-01-25 17:41:10
They cryogenic process is interesting another option for you is with the new block to shim and also add extra support around the clyinders in the water jackets
Post 795532 by GregE102 on 2016-01-25 18:07:11
[QUOTE=t5 pete;795531]They cryogenic process is interesting another option for you is with the new block to shim and also add extra support around the cylinders in the water jackets[/QUOTE]
A friend who builds and runs cars in a BMW series used to go though components at an accelerated rate gear boxes mainly used to last 3-5 races he started using cyro treatment now boxes last hole seasons with refresh before the next season, he also has dipped pretty much hole engines in parts and his mechanical success has been excellent!
Another mate is now sending his O2J golf box away as they keep failing so will be able to see what the affects are on a normal box very soon as his last box only lasted 2 track days and it was given a clean bill of health after a rebuild so we will get to see with in a 3 months the results
Post 795536 by GregE102 on 2016-01-25 18:26:35
[QUOTE=Yosser;795526]There's a massive mud slinging fest over on Swedespeed about block guards : http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?278329-Re-Volv-Kaplhenke-Racing-BlockGuard-for-R-2-5L-Status
I have no real clue if it's worthwhile or not, but I suspect not - certainly for most of us.
Amongst all the poop flinging was a link to a Polish firm doing a similar thing ; http://satistech.com/offer/closing-volvo-engine-blocks/
That seemed to appeal to more folks than the other way on that thread. I don't know what Shem does to be fair.[/QUOTE]
That made for interesting reading Nick!
Tim runs just a shimmed block no other decking or nothing like it and runs over 400 bhp all day long and has never had no issues with liners splitting, there was another option as well on the engine build guy on Chanel 5 screwed studs down the side of the liners in the cooling jackets which was supposed to help but was running close to 6 or 700 bhp can't remember which?
Cheers
Post 795538 by t5 pete on 2016-01-25 18:37:37
[QUOTE=GregE102;795536]That made for interesting reading Nick!
Tim runs just a shimmed block no other decking or nothing like it and runs over 400 bhp all day long and has never had no issues with liners splitting, there was another option as well on the engine build guy on Chanel 5 screwed studs down the side of the liners in the cooling jackets which was supposed to help but was running close to 6 or 700 bhp can't remember which?
Cheers[/QUOTE]
I remember watching that also while looking at videos on net at freezing there was a few open deck blocks with that method of bars in the water jackets for extra support being used in motor sport applications.
Personally I think Tim would be the best to ask on this situation as ypu say he's running the sort of power levels dave is wanting to achieve.
Post 795546 by GregE102 on 2016-01-25 19:29:19
[QUOTE=t5 pete;795538]I remember watching that also while looking at videos on net at freezing there was a few open deck blocks with that method of bars in the water jackets for extra support being used in motor sport applications.
Personally I think Tim would be the best to ask on this situation as ypu say he's running the sort of power levels dave is wanting to achieve.[/QUOTE]Tim has on many occasions tested to destruction with constant track use the weak points of these engines and has just about ironed out all the little fixes there is! Steve also ran 458bhp and had no liner issues for the life span of his car and when it was broken the where no issues found with splitting liners Tim had also shimmed that block!
Post 795547 by jamesy12345 on 2016-01-25 19:32:52
[QUOTE=Yosser;795526]There's a massive mud slinging fest over on Swedespeed about block guards : http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?278329-Re-Volv-Kaplhenke-Racing-BlockGuard-for-R-2-5L-Status
I have no real clue if it's worthwhile or not, but I suspect not - certainly for most of us.
Amongst all the poop flinging was a link to a Polish firm doing a similar thing ; http://satistech.com/offer/closing-volvo-engine-blocks/
That seemed to appeal to more folks than the other way on that thread. I don't know what Shem does to be fair.[/QUOTE]
:lol: a great many engineering assumptions on that first thread
Post 795556 by Doingitsideways on 2016-01-25 20:50:17
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;795547]:lol: a great many engineering assumptions on that first thread[/QUOTE]
You call yourself an engineer?!
:lol:
Post 795560 by jamesy12345 on 2016-01-25 21:17:33
[QUOTE=Doingitsideways;795556]You call yourself an engineer?!
:lol:[/QUOTE]
naa not a liner engineer :) I know when not to comment cos I know nowt about the subject - I know my own limits of knowledge. If people are willing to use their engine to test different methods of reinforcing liners then that's up to them. Pointless arguing about whose method is better without either loads of testing or decent analysis like finite element/CFD/whatever the F1 teams use....not many people have the spare coin for that!! Hoop stress my hoop!
Post 795589 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-26 12:18:44
I have given this a great deal of thought & read a lot of opinions & talked to Mr. Williams - I have decided to just shim the B5234T3 block and leave the deck open. Money will be diverted into a SMF/ new clutch arrangement - to reduce the rotational inertia, even though this may slightly reduce driveability - I am already fully committed to have one of the fastest Volvo's in the UK.
I will be using a waterless coolant option this time & seek to get some kind of water/methanol injection.
Credit card is going to get spanked - long & hard this year! But the EURO has strengthened against GBP & with my new day rate secured I think we should be OK. Let the buying commence!!
Post 795606 by t5 pete on 2016-01-26 16:14:30
We're also going with waterless coolant on the 16v builds there's alot of benefits to using it
Post 795607 by smithy on 2016-01-26 16:43:16
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795589]I have given this a great deal of thought & read a lot of opinions & talked to Mr. Williams - I have decided to just shim the B5234T3 block and leave the deck open. Money will be diverted into a SMF/ new clutch arrangement - to reduce the rotational inertia, even though this may slightly reduce driveability - I am already fully committed to have one of the fastest Volvo's in the UK.
I will be using a waterless coolant option this time & seek to get some kind of water/methanol injection.
Credit card is going to get spanked - long & hard this year! But the EURO has strengthened against GBP & with my new day rate secured I think we should be OK. Let the buying commence!![/QUOTE]
Good to see you are going to build the car again mate .im glad you said one of the fastest volvos in the uk lol .see you on a strip near you matey and you too Pete .
Post 795612 by GregE102 on 2016-01-26 18:13:00
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795589]I have given this a great deal of thought & read a lot of opinions & talked to Mr. Williams - I have decided to just shim the B5234T3 block and leave the deck open. Money will be diverted into a SMF/ new clutch arrangement - to reduce the rotational inertia, even though this may slightly reduce driveability - I am already fully committed to have one of the fastest Volvo's in the UK.
I will be using a waterless coolant option this time & seek to get some kind of water/methanol injection.
Credit card is going to get spanked - long & hard this year! But the EURO has strengthened against GBP & with my new day rate secured I think we should be OK. Let the buying commence!![/QUOTE]
Glad to hear your going ahead with the build Dave if your after Methanol injection I have a tank which fits under my spear wheel and holds about 13 litres and the pump is hidden in the boot on the rear wheel arch under the liner. I use the AEM progressive system. I have had Devils own but running neat methanol as i do eats plastic internals where as the AEM pump just keeps on trucking all day long.
Have you thought about mapping? for running in you need the fuelling to be spot on. I would discuss this with Shark sooner rather than later to see what they can do? boost needs to be low with a low rev limit and standard ignition position just for running in. As you know if the fuelling is not spot on to start with it will brake down the oil and in a very short space of time leading to bearing failure.
Also have you though anymore about getting another head dipped as the ME7 heads are prone to cracking at times?
Cheers Greg
Post 795658 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-01-27 14:06:46
Are you selling the Meth/Water kit?
I will dip the head if it comes back from testing ok. I suspect from the amount of grey cappuccino in the oil channels that it is unlikely to be good news.
As for mapping Shark would be my 1st choice.
Speaking of good news - this showed up today...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30192[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30193[/ATTACH]
from Germany. It looks to be in pretty good nick.
Plan is to re-bore & hone it & shim it. Dunno if it is worth cryo-dipping.
Post 795661 by t5 pete on 2016-01-27 14:38:21
Must be the day for delivering
This came from Bosnia
Post 795670 by GregE102 on 2016-01-27 17:33:17
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795658]Are you selling the Meth/Water kit?
I will dip the head if it comes back from testing ok. I suspect from the amount of grey cappuccino in the oil channels that it is unlikely to be good news.
As for mapping Shark would be my 1st choice.
Speaking of good news - this showed up today...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30192[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30193[/ATTACH]
from Germany. It looks to be in pretty good nick.
Plan is to re-bore & hone it & shim it. Dunno if it is worth cryo-dipping.[/QUOTE]
I got my AEM kit from ebay in the Xenon uk store and the tank was made through Tim
Post 795671 by GregE102 on 2016-01-27 17:36:59
[QUOTE=t5 pete;795661]Must be the day for delivering
This came from Bosnia
[/QUOTE]
You can't beat a bit of south east European head action Pete. Very Nice!
Post 795676 by GregE102 on 2016-01-27 18:15:01
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;795675]Greg - was it this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-WATER-METHANOL-INJECTION-KIT-NO-TANK-V2-P-N-30-3302-/121219869415?hash=item1c39446ae7[/QUOTE]
Yes thats the pump I have but my control is different and older and the price for my kit was less having a look around I can't see my controller Tim will be able to tell you if that controller is any good or Chris S70 who has the M3 up for grabs might be able to tell if the controller is the same as his?
Post 795680 by WOODY T5 on 2016-01-27 19:23:32
that`s the one i have dave
Post 796358 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-10 16:01:14
Wish me luck the head goes tomorrow to be checked. Fingers crossed it comes back without any bad news.
Post 796414 by Doingitsideways on 2016-02-11 20:13:24
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;796358]Wish me luck the head goes tomorrow to be checked. Fingers crossed it comes back without any bad news.[/QUOTE]
Erm... Good luck getting good head.
Post 796419 by Jamest5r on 2016-02-11 20:25:18
[QUOTE=Doingitsideways;796414]Erm... Good luck getting good head.[/QUOTE]
Well it is his birthday today so who knows :)
Post 796420 by Doingitsideways on 2016-02-11 20:26:17
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;796419]Well it is his birthday today so who knows :)[/QUOTE]
As long as it stops there.
He has enough kids :lol:
Post 796478 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-12 13:50:15
Good news - I am still alive after 44 years. Better news is that the head came back with no cracks! Been cleaned and faced and is ready to be used on the next evolution.
I cleared down more stuff out of the bay. Still in 2 minds whether to junk the air-con (it still works).
Post 796480 by t5 pete on 2016-02-12 13:59:05
Awesome news Dave
Post 796494 by Jamest5r on 2016-02-12 20:33:58
Happy days mate :)
Post 796505 by MoleT-5R on 2016-02-13 00:55:50
Could be back on track sooner than september then Dave ???
Post 796713 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-16 16:41:05
Trial fitting of my BBK (WP brakes from ShemTek) need some work but I think they will do the job & look the part once services. Uses 330 disks from the XC90.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30253[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30254[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30255[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30256[/ATTACH]
Sadly they do not clear the 7.5J alloys I have & I think I will need spacers?
Post 796778 by Dream3r on 2016-02-18 00:34:20
Hi mate, did you decide on a map, if not speak to Shem he's got some interesting news indeed.
Anti-lag ? Nls? Datalogging etc. It's all ready via Shem.
:)
Post 796788 by jamesy12345 on 2016-02-18 06:57:59
[QUOTE=Dream3r;796778]Hi mate, did you decide on a map, if not speak to Shem he's got some interesting news indeed.
Anti-lag ? Nls? Datalogging etc. It's all ready via Shem.
:)[/QUOTE]
Sounds interesting....:)
Post 796891 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-19 20:44:15
[QUOTE=Dream3r;796778]Hi mate, did you decide on a map, if not speak to Shem he's got some interesting news indeed.
Anti-lag ? Nls? Datalogging etc. It's all ready via Shem.
:)[/QUOTE] Anti is interesting from a drag racing perspective but I am worried how it might shorten the life of my exhaust housing/ manifold. Mapping I was thinking Shark as they are quite near to me. Data logging is important. I would have used yours if I had not had so many technical challenges with the engine.
Post 796893 by MoleT-5R on 2016-02-19 21:05:03
[QUOTE=Dream3r;796778]Hi mate, did you decide on a map, if not speak to Shem he's got some interesting news indeed.
Anti-lag ? Nls? Datalogging etc. It's all ready via Shem.
:)[/QUOTE]
if I'm reading this post correctly, for my me7 v70r this is very interesting to me...:)
Post 796900 by The Flying Moose on 2016-02-19 22:29:15
Just noticed the brakes, are the calipers not too small for the disc on that picture? Ie pad not fully covering diameter of disc?
Post 796952 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-21 01:55:48
[QUOTE=The Flying Moose;796900]Just noticed the brakes, are the calipers not too small for the disc on that picture? Ie pad not fully covering diameter of disc?[/QUOTE]
I believe this is part of the compromise of using those cheaper XC90 disks. I had another try on the other side with wheels that were in better condition. The comets still shave the inner side of the caliper, but it does rotate - so I believe the setup with a little fettling will work or I could just get the proper bells/disks. We'll just wait n see.
On a brighter note the engine is down and out - I can begin the strip down tomorrow time & weather permitting.
Post 796955 by Dream3r on 2016-02-21 03:16:19
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;796893]if I'm reading this post correctly, for my me7 v70r this is very interesting to me...:)[/QUOTE]
Yup - See Shem
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;796891]Anti is interesting from a drag racing perspective but I am worried how it might shorten the life of my exhaust housing/ manifold. Mapping I was thinking Shark as they are quite near to me. Data logging is important. I would have used yours if I had not had so many technical challenges with the engine.[/QUOTE]
The logger is now built in-to the flash tool, but I'm fairly sure you could get you a separate one, depending on the owner consenting, then there's Shark of course.
Basically speak to Shem - he's got access to everything inc custom mapping, ME9 very soon as well.
Post 797142 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-24 11:34:38
It was bleedin' cawd last night but with the moon and the stars overhead I cracked on regardless. The block is pretty much stripped (I gave up when it got to 1:30am). Separation was not easy as I was trying to keep both half shafts in the gearbox with the rear gear box engine mount still bolted on. Simply not possible I found and I had to relent and take the long half shaft out - and all for 3 pound bolts in the hubs (my mind is funny that way).
Anyway it is split now (took ages on my own) & just have the clutch & flywheel to remove.
There has to be an easy way to mate & unmate the gearbox right?
I am probably going to leave the sump on and let someone else deal with the contaminated oil/grey crap in there.
Then I think I need to finally decide who to use to do the engineering work.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30320[/ATTACH]
On a less depressing note I have bought the ATP housing & ultimate collector with internal W/G for the GTX, AEM V2 kit for water/meth injection, lightened flywheel from Kalmar Union. I will need a new friction plate as the sachs one has no damper springs.
I also think this time I will get the engineers to tap my turbo return in the sump so I can use flexible return.
Going to get my cleaning on - with all the bits that came off the block. So tonnes to do.
Tips on remating gearboxes on your own would be appreciated.
Post 797154 by t5 pete on 2016-02-24 15:03:17
As for tips for the gear box ide a case of big balls it's easier to do it in the floor like the engine is now than when the engine is in the car.
Clean the locating pins up slide the box on and get the two top bols in then do the rest round the sides and remember to fit the bottom ones when the engine is in the car or lift the engine with engine crane and do them then
Post 797155 by Doingitsideways on 2016-02-24 15:47:08
Could you not rig up a few suitably placed blocks of timber, stand the block on it's end and drop the gearbox onto it that way?
Would need draining though, if not already done.
Post 797162 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-24 16:32:06
I think I will keep the scrap block, remove the crank ladder section and make it into a coffee table.
Post 797263 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-02-25 22:46:08
I quite like it when stuff starts to turn up...
Post 797273 by WOODY T5 on 2016-02-25 23:28:20
Nice Dave just re fitted mine tonight ��
Post 798845 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-03-30 16:21:16
The BBK I bought means that I may have to increase my wheel size. I have acquired some Federal RSR in 18"
Just wondered what you thought of these Y spoke alloys? I would replace the tragic wheel centres but I thought these had an element of polestar about them??
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30470[/ATTACH]
Post 798846 by M-R-P on 2016-03-30 16:55:16
Look like TSW Venoms :)
Post 798848 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-03-30 18:15:56
[QUOTE=M-R-P;798846]Look like TSW Venoms :)[/QUOTE] but a bit less fat and round in the spoke.
Post 798849 by Jamest5r on 2016-03-30 18:26:55
I quite like them
Post 798853 by martin_r_smith on 2016-03-30 19:31:04
I like them too, think they would suit the ssb well.
Post 798870 by The Flying Moose on 2016-03-31 01:21:15
I like them alot Dave, they will look very good fitted Im sure, best of all original and not "just another set of pegs".
Post 798878 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-03-31 09:36:28
I am just waiiting to see how big the centre bores are. Likely that i will buy if it comes back ok
Post 799933 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-04-22 01:22:05
Not had much to update on until today. My new ATP housing for the GTX arrive so I did some side by side shots. The new housing is more compact and I think the main benefit will be in allowing a wider radius on the 1st part of the downpipe. THe exit is much higher up relative to the central axis. The T3 mounting plate will also make the core higher relative to the engine/ exhaust manifold.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30578[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30579[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30580[/ATTACH]
Call me daft but do you not think it would be worth machining/polishing the inside to the collector to remove the casting?
I am also thinking of having the housing treated with the plasma coating.
Post 799940 by Tim Williams on 2016-04-22 08:24:25
Polishing it will make it more prone to cracking, remember to use good quality studs and nuts.
Post 799944 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-04-22 10:09:52
The holes are the same size as the exhaust manifold for a Volvo - so I plan to get some genuine studs and the locking nuts (the copper flashed ones). M8 IIRC?? right?
Post 800580 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-05 11:39:58
Studs have arrived. Sneaky peaky at the new cylinder block...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30635[/ATTACH]
Post 800592 by claymore on 2016-05-05 17:44:19
that looks fantastic
Post 800594 by MoleT-5R on 2016-05-05 19:14:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;800580]Studs have arrived. Sneaky peaky at the new cylinder block...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30635[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
OOOH.....I like that very much, will be interesting to see how this performs when you get it on track.
Post 800596 by ExternalError on 2016-05-05 19:42:29
Nice Shems work is top quality just need to get it all put back together and then decide what your doing with mapping
Post 800599 by Jamest5r on 2016-05-05 22:47:13
Very nice mate
Post 800800 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-11 00:39:38
It has to be bored yet. Shem is working up the TTV SMF and a replacement clutch plate - get it all nicely balanced.
I ordered some proper ARP studs for the housing but because of their design and thickness of the collector flange - they are not quite long enough - so I have reverted to using old Volvo ones which are the perfect length and new copper flashed nuts. I can't see it coming away.
I've ported the new collector and the turbine housing entry (as far as I could get with the dremel).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30658[/ATTACH]
Post 800801 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-11 00:40:28
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30654[/ATTACH]
Looking into the T3 flange from above.
Post 800802 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-11 00:47:20
Getting the old housing off was difficult, but I managed to separate it without bending any fins.
Orientation should be a bit more flexible as I planned to get the sump tapped, and use flexible oil pipe for the return.
I have had to chop the old actuator mounting bracket as the angle to the W/G arm was much greater than before.
Needs a bit more finessing and then hopefully find someone (Colin!?) to tack it for me.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30655[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30656[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30657[/ATTACH]
Post 800803 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-11 00:54:02
I guess I can't really finalise the orientation of the CHRA until the block and head are re-united -but I am fairly sure it is not too far off the mark. The project feels like I have a slow but steady momentum. I am waiting on the WMI tank for the boot. The new block will be bored out soon and new piston rings fitted onto the wiseco pistons. Shem says it all looks pretty good.
Once that is ready with the new shells and bottom end then I can finally start to move towards re-assembly. And this time I am doing it then I know it will be right (or my fault).
Post 800981 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-05-16 10:35:31
My next door neighbour has helped me out with the bracket and welded it up. Probably not the most exciting update ever but still good progress. And thanks to Pete for offering to do the welding.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30673[/ATTACH]
Post 803666 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 17:35:34
It's amazing how I have stuck steadfast to this dream because many would have thrown in the towel by now.
New donor block had to be scrapped because there was a compromising crack in the crank ladder, just adjacent to the oil pump recess - so I have a 600 quid closed deck that had to be redone with another block.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30931[/ATTACH]
I will either turn it into a coffee table or sell it on as a going concern. The deck is sound, but I wasnt prepared to compromise. FFS I didn't even spot it. So setting the heartache aside the mark 2 block will be ready hopefully this weekend.
Post 803668 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 17:48:50
So while the bottom end works were going on I've been doing some polishing work - some cosmetic, some with an engineering purpose.
Cam cover
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30932[/ATTACH]
GTX3017R compressor housing & I have ported it internally (removed any casting marks) as far as my tools would reach
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30933[/ATTACH]
Hopefully this will help the spool up.
I have also internally worked the S60R manifold
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30934[/ATTACH]
and finessed the previous P&P job inside both exhaust and inlet ports in the head
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30935[/ATTACH]
Post 803669 by M-R-P on 2016-08-02 17:52:14
Saw the shiny stuff on Facebook Dave, was meaning to ask... Have you put anything on the polished surfaces to stop them dulling over time?
Post 803670 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 18:06:41
I finessed my first attempt on the new turbine housing collector
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30936[/ATTACH]
The polishing of the combustion chambers showed no evidence of the 3 angle valve job and given all the work done I have sent the head away to be professionally reworked and they said they would back cut the valves too, to remove the lip on the back - and thanks to Jamie @ PFV I have replaced the inlet valve below
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30937[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30938[/ATTACH]
Post 803671 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 18:08:03
It is increasingly unlikely that the SSB will be ready for York but I will give it my best shot. If not I will come anyway and bring the cabbie.
Post 803672 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 18:18:07
[QUOTE=M-R-P;803669]Saw the shiny stuff on Facebook Dave, was meaning to ask... Have you put anything on the polished surfaces to stop them dulling over time?[/QUOTE]
Thought about possibly using a clear coat lacquer but that itself is problematic, given that I would have to use rattle cans. With oversprays and all that malarky - I thought it will just have to do.
The aluminium reacts with the o2 in the air instantly, so the layer of aluminium oxide will be there as soon as I expose it thus will always be dull - I think it will just have to do & I can maintain it as & when, with metal polish and a flexible line on my dremel. The main work is done (i.e. the flat and polish).
I don't really know what else you can do - it is not like paint where you can wax it ?
Post 803673 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-02 18:24:17
Some of the exhaust valves will be re-cut too to remove the pitting.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30940[/ATTACH]
Post 803677 by M-R-P on 2016-08-02 20:03:20
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;803672]Thought about possibly using a clear coat lacquer but that itself is problematic, given that I would have to use rattle cans. With oversprays and all that malarky - I thought it will just have to do.
The aluminium reacts with the o2 in the air instantly, so the layer of aluminium oxide will be there as soon as I expose it thus will always be dull - I think it will just have to do & I can maintain it as & when, with metal polish and a flexible line on my dremel. The main work is done (i.e. the flat and polish).
I don't really know what else you can do - it is not like paint where you can wax it ?[/QUOTE]
Maybe some sort of silicone?
There's high temperature clear lacquer on the market, its not cheap and with basic masking and some patients, it's Do-able
Post 803876 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-08 17:22:48
In my ruthless pursuit for additional bling and engineering efficiency - namely the faster the air flows, the better the engine goes - I have been working up my inlet manifold.
Before we started - it is pretty crudely put together - 2 halves sandwiched together, casting flash everywhere.
outside
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30946[/ATTACH]
inside the bowl
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30947[/ATTACH]
up the runners...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30948[/ATTACH]
These had all been port matched on the previous evolution - but only the 1st inch of the runners had been touched. I didn't really want to remove any more material from the gasket ends, but I was going to improve the finish on them anyway.
Post 803877 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-08 17:37:26
First I cleaned off the crap off the outside with a brass brush and brash cleaning wheel.
The seams in the bowl and down the runners were flattened wit' tungsten carbide burrs.
Then I set to with the 80 grit on the long shank. I used the port where the vacuum for the brake servo comes off and was able to reach 80% of the inside of the plenum but sadly some flash had to be left untouched.
Then 120 then 360 and finally some speed-clic buffs for the dremel. Last stage was a cutting polish. I'd say in all about 12 man hours on the inside.
I am doing cosmetic work on the outside and that is nearly done - so for now you can see the work completed on the inside...
close up down #2 - seamless
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30949[/ATTACH]
Runners & 4
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30950[/ATTACH]
inlet bowl
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30951[/ATTACH]
I don't know if it will make that much difference given the angles the air has to turn to get into the cylinder head, but I am happy with the result and I am certainly getting better at metal polishing.
Post 803880 by Tomcat on 2016-08-08 20:02:54
Nice work Dave, love the eye for detail on this build
Post 803899 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-09 10:38:25
[QUOTE=Tomcat;803880]Nice work Dave, love the eye for detail on this build[/QUOTE] To be honest there are 2 things here - I am tired of being a push over when it comes to farming out work, so I am keeping the oversight much tighter and yes I am a bit anally retentive/OCD.
If I had the wherewith-all to do it all in house on this evolution - then I would. I seem to be learning the hard way. But there again - I know the risks when pushing this hard against the design. Hussein Holland in the US had that XC70 AWD thing up for 40K miles with 450bhp+ - so it is difficult pitching my reliability expectations versus what I have seen worldwide. The bike destroying 667bhp C70 (speeding.nu sponsored) is dead - though it was rolled rather than blew up.
I question my sanity on a daily basis when it comes to this project. E.g. I saw a DB9 last night in silver and thought surely V12 goodness would be better?
Anyway I think I am fairly settled on going lightweight, though I am going to keep the ICE - namely the Alpine head-unit, speakers and amp. This will mean more money on seats, I was going to recover some old ones. Not sure about junking the A/C as it still worked perfectly well.
Post 803910 by Tomcat on 2016-08-09 18:17:45
Always better doing stuff yourself wherever you can Dave, that way you know exactly what's been done rather than relying on someone else's say so.
Post 804193 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-16 21:53:24
Some of you may have seen this album on FB - but I thought I would keep my thread up to date. I have completed the exterior refinement of the inlet manifold.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31011[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31012[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31013[/ATTACH]
Post 804202 by draven666 on 2016-08-17 03:05:10
hi dave sorry to highjack the thread but followed some of your work and i am after some advise if possible. looking to mod a ME7 C70 t5, and looking at the best way to go, wanting to make a track car out of it and was hoping for around 300hp with a bit of kick, any pointers??
Post 804203 by Sparkysparks on 2016-08-17 08:17:29
Manifold looks lovely, lots of hours with the dremel id say.
Are you going to cover it with the injector shield or is that shiny aswell?
Post 804231 by Dangerous Dave on 2016-08-17 22:26:06
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;804193]Some of you may have seen this album on FB - but I thought I would keep my thread up to date. I have completed the exterior refinement of the inlet manifold.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31012[/ATTACH]
[/QUOTE]
Some serious elbow grease gone into that mate, cracking job!!!
Post 804236 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-18 01:24:19
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;804203]Manifold looks lovely, lots of hours with the dremel id say.
Are you going to cover it with the injector shield or is that shiny aswell?[/QUOTE]
Already had a shiny one from years back...
and the dremel was used but mostly sanded back using my rotary polisher, bosch multitool and various flap wheels
Post 804237 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-18 01:41:41
[QUOTE=draven666;804202]hi dave sorry to highjack the thread but followed some of your work and i am after some advise if possible. looking to mod a ME7 C70 t5, and looking at the best way to go, wanting to make a track car out of it and was hoping for around 300hp with a bit of kick, any pointers??[/QUOTE]
I ran a 19T turbo on this car for 7 years, eventually achieving 320bhp. The most successful mix (on standard internals) was with a larger FMIC, Bosch Green injectors, custom ATM remap, IPD ram air induction kit, home made RIP kit, feritta dp with 200 cel race cat and miltec exhaust. Boosted to 1.25 bar. Was very good on track. I had standard 302mm brakes with ferodo DS2500 pads all round, quaiffe LSD, thicker ARBs (from IPDUSA), eibach prokit springs and bilstein b6 dampers.
Some of this will becoming available soon because I am moving to BC coilovers, which for a track day machine would be widely recommended.
Post 804390 by 4v6 on 2016-08-22 17:33:22
Quick word about polishing the interior of the intake manifold and ports.
Usually a 180 grit finish is about as fine as youd want to go, further polishing wont acheive anything other than look nice for a while and as youve undoubtedly found out it takes ages.
Nice work on the exterior though it looks as good as chrome. :)
Post 804397 by draven666 on 2016-08-22 20:27:27
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;804237]I ran a 19T turbo on this car for 7 years, eventually achieving 320bhp. The most successful mix (on standard internals) was with a larger FMIC, Bosch Green injectors, custom ATM remap, IPD ram air induction kit, home made RIP kit, feritta dp with 200 cel race cat and miltec exhaust. Boosted to 1.25 bar. Was very good on track. I had standard 302mm brakes with ferodo DS2500 pads all round, quaiffe LSD, thicker ARBs (from IPDUSA), eibach prokit springs and bilstein b6 dampers.
Some of this will becoming available soon because I am moving to BC coilovers, which for a track day machine would be widely recommended.[/QUOTE]
Thankyou for your time.... ive just acquired a standard c70T5 and looking for a bit extra power without braking the bank. am i right in thinking its running a 16t turbo as it it is, if so what kinda of horsepower is achievable without changing the turbo, and what mods would be advisable? thankyou
Post 804400 by Doingitsideways on 2016-08-22 20:56:54
[QUOTE=draven666;804397]Thankyou for your time.... ive just acquired a standard c70T5 and looking for a bit extra power without braking the bank. am i right in thinking its running a 16t turbo as it it is, if so what kinda of horsepower is achievable without changing the turbo, and what mods would be advisable? thankyou[/QUOTE]
About 280-ish with the 16t.
First up though give it a good stage-0 and assess things as they stand before gunning for more horses ;)
Post 804403 by draven666 on 2016-08-23 01:09:41
is anyone still doing mapping?
Post 804431 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-23 19:31:16
I'll be looking towards either Shark or Shemtek this time.
Post 804433 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-23 21:14:27
[QUOTE=draven666;804403]is anyone still doing thread hijack?[/QUOTE]
you are..
Post 804435 by ExternalError on 2016-08-23 21:40:36
Dave loving the build so far wish i had the your patience to do all that polishing, the end result does look good though. Hopefully we we will see each other at a meet at somepoint again once my own 400 break beasts mapping is all finished,I'm currently in the tweaking phase to ea the most out of the garrett.
Post 804439 by MoleT-5R on 2016-08-23 22:00:11
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;804193]Some of you may have seen this album on FB - but I thought I would keep my thread up to date. I have completed the exterior refinement of the inlet manifold.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31011[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31012[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31013[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
Loving the effort and love you are putting into Betsy in this new evolution, I hope it all bares the fruits of what you are striving to achieve
Post 804440 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-23 22:01:08
Gonna get a new pair of boots for Hamish to chew on LOL
Post 804441 by MoleT-5R on 2016-08-23 22:13:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;804440]Gonna get a new pair of boots for Hamish to chew on LOL[/QUOTE]
Is he going to pop along and see you beat Dean...;)
Post 804445 by sye73 on 2016-08-23 23:22:02
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;804237]I ran a 19T turbo on this car for 7 years, eventually achieving 320bhp. The most successful mix (on standard internals) was with a larger FMIC, Bosch Green injectors, custom ATM remap, IPD ram air induction kit, home made RIP kit, feritta dp with 200 cel race cat and miltec exhaust. Boosted to 1.25 bar. Was very good on track. I had standard 302mm brakes with ferodo DS2500 pads all round, quaiffe LSD, thicker ARBs (from IPDUSA), eibach prokit springs and bilstein b6 dampers.
Some of this will becoming available soon because I am moving to BC coilovers, which for a track day machine would be widely recommended.[/QUOTE]
I might be interested in the eibach/bilstein suspension, depending on condition, price and when it might be available
Cheers
Post 804452 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-08-24 11:46:17
[QUOTE=sye73;804445]I might be interested in the eibach/bilstein suspension, depending on condition, price and when it might be available
Cheers[/QUOTE]
The bilsteins were bought new and fitted 2009. The springs are a bit older but still in good condition. You can probably find the exact details in this thread. I think they are about 60- 70K miles in overall wear. Car shows 176K miles at the moment - they were fitted just after it hit 6 figures IIRC.
Edit - sorry but the 1st post on this thread is after they were fitted.
Post 804462 by sye73 on 2016-08-24 20:02:56
OK. They're going to be a bit old for me I think - cheers for the message anyway
Post 806632 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 16:47:08
2 months further down and progress has been debilitatingly slow due primarily with delays on the new closed deck block. The donor block had a broken headbolt down one of the holes. Following its removal the ARP stud would not tighten up so more work has been done to fix the problems. I have been assured that the block will be ready this week and the cylinder head/block will be returned to me fully assembled.
In the meantime I have not been idle. I have refurbed the WP 6 pot BBK that will go onto the front. I have also had Zircotec wave their magic fingers over the hotside and exhaust manifold. Also my parts list has grown - usual suspects - PVC system, expansion tank & PAS tank will all be refreshed and my sexy new ITG enclosed filter has arrived (125mm inlet, 102 mm Outlet - good for 600bhp).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31166[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31167[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31168[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31169[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31170[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31171[/ATTACH]
Post 806633 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 16:48:20
Final reassembly with gaskets and new copper flashed nuts...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31172[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31173[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31174[/ATTACH]
Post 806634 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 16:50:45
And today my new sparco 4 point harnesses arrived to compliment the new cobra seats going in. Planning to use a harness bar, with a stripped interior (removed rear seats). The dash will be retained and so will the ICE. This will be a road-legal TDM, however due to the changes in MOT - it seems that you either have to remove all SRS or have it all working - no missing bulbs etc.
I do with to retain the front 3 point inertia reel seat belts, just so it is easier to use.
Post 806639 by MoleT-5R on 2016-10-26 17:23:12
I sorry to here of your delays along the way, but it has at least allowed you enough time to solve your Rubik's Cube....;)
Great update Dave and some real progress, really like the Zircotec coated parts. Did the head stud that wouldn't tighten need heli-coiling to make good, just asking as I've a block here that I have a broken stud to extract from it, fingers crossed it comes out without further remedial work being necessary.
Post 806640 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 17:29:21
Shem's engineers have removed the broken stud and I believe a threaded insert will be used to make good the hole. I have been assured that it will be stronger than new, but only time will tell.
I have been able to solve the rubics cube for about 4 years now, as the original picture when the GTX landed will show.[ATTACH=CONFIG]31175[/ATTACH]
Post 806641 by MoleT-5R on 2016-10-26 18:09:00
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;806640]Shem's engineers have removed the broken stud and I believe a threaded insert will be used to make good the hole. I have been assured that it will be stronger than new, but only time will tell.
I have been able to solve the rubics cube for about 4 years now, as the original picture when the GTX landed will show.[ATTACH=CONFIG]31175[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
done it once and left it like it.....lol
Heli-coil inserts are great, we use them regularly at work where the monkeys strip out the threads by over tightening or cross threading, then drill out and tap, wind in the coil insert and bob's your uncle all good again, should give just as good clamping force as a normal thread.
Post 806646 by Tim Williams on 2016-10-26 18:41:43
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;806641]done it once and left it like it.....lol
Heli-coil inserts are great, we use them regularly at work where the monkeys strip out the threads by over tightening or cross threading, then drill out and tap, wind in the coil insert and bob's your uncle all good again, should give just as good clamping force as a normal thread.[/QUOTE]
I think it's a thread insert not a Helicoil.
Post 806650 by MoleT-5R on 2016-10-26 18:47:17
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;806646]I think it's a thread insert not a Helicoil.[/QUOTE]
everydays a learning one, whats the difference Tim?..want get it right as I may have to do this to my block yet
Post 806657 by Craigyt on 2016-10-26 21:43:51
I guessing it will be a threaded hole down the centre of a threaded bar that will then be screwed into the block that has had the hole drilled and tapped bigger.
Power station stuff, but is a good strong fix.
Love the progress, just read most of it from the start, mainly just skimming to the pics!
Post 806660 by Harvey on 2016-10-26 22:17:36
I helicoil looks like a spring & comes with special drill bit , tap , special tool install it all comes in the kit.
Post 806664 by claymore on 2016-10-26 22:31:08
Nice to see progress Dave, I haven't touched mine since Cosford :(
Post 806665 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 22:47:10
Progress has been frustrating at times, but I remain determined to get this evolution completed. I have bought some proper drag radials this week - proper compound for 17 inch wheels. I am of a mind to get the 17s dipped with carbon fibre pattern - though I am still in 2 minds. I also have a set of 18 inch tyres (federal RSR) but no alloys and I still cannot make up my mind about which way to go.
Post 806666 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 23:12:53
Nearly forgot to mention I have taken delivery of the 15mm H&K wheel spacers and a set of elongated wheel bolts, so that the 17s will fit over. It increases the track width for better cornering. I am however quite drawn towards Bola as an alloy choice.
I have also bought ducting hose for the new ITG enclosure. Junking the air con and pipe work will mean that the larger 5 inch tube will fit nicely into the NSF corner.
I plan to get a set of ordinary backing plates and weld some tubes onto the back and create a ducted solution for the brakes running from where the front fogs are (front fogs are coming off).
I am also looking a front traction bars (removable for drag race use only) - the aim of which is to resist the movement of weight to the rear inherent with FWD drag racing. I will make them removable so that they can be taken to the strip - installed and then removed when the day is done. - something like this... [ATTACH=CONFIG]31176[/ATTACH]
Post 806669 by Wobbly Dave on 2016-10-26 23:17:07
More than anything I need to learn how to weld. Paying for these - it can't be that hard to weld some tubes onto the standard backing plates??
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31177[/ATTACH]
Post 806673 by MoleT-5R on 2016-10-26 23:39:13
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;806669]More than anything I need to learn how to weld. Paying for these - it can't be that hard to weld some tubes onto the standard backing plates??
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31177[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
and your only paying for a few spots of weld.....
Post 806675 by claymore on 2016-10-27 08:04:12
Get some back plates, then you can bring them to me to either weld, or you can have a go for yourself.
Post 806706 by M-R-P on 2016-10-28 01:52:19
Keep it up Dave, it'll soon come together.
Baggsies first passenger ride...
Post 808467 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-01-03 16:30:54
Happy New Year to all - I have done quite a bit of reassembly over the last 3 months - most of which I have moaned and droned on about on my new project drivetribe channel (linky below).
Had some fun installing a helicoil or 2 - and discovered that the engine mounts on an 850 block section are indeed different to that of C70 ME7. The new inner timing belt cover that I ordered from FRF underwent some significant plastic surgery with no anaesthetic. The more observant will see that my new AC pump is a bit smaller and lighter than before.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31301[/ATTACH]
I have also deployed some rivnuts to move the removed AC condensor to make more room for the engine. The interior is stripped back too - just waiting on some fabrications for the harness bar - I am retaining the 3 point inertia seat belts up front but the rears have been junked now, as have the rear seats. I am trying to retain some of the daily use - but with the new SRS regulations for MOT - they also might have to go as with the front air bag.
The other blue things are now fitted to the back of the engine [ATTACH=CONFIG]31302[/ATTACH].
All I am waiting on now is a new engine crane as I am not lifting this bugger on my own.
Post 808473 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-01-03 20:08:30
Nice one Dave, that blue stuff is very striking.
I remember putting my engine together and thinking how good it looked. Only problem is once it's in the car it gets hidden by all the other stuff :(
Post 808476 by LiamT4 on 2017-01-03 20:25:43
It does look very nice.
Post 808477 by Doingitsideways on 2017-01-03 21:50:16
Does look awesome :)
I'm not shy of trundling up and down the country with my crane in the boot.
Give us a shout if you get stuck and could do with someone to swear at it 'til it fits.
Post 808478 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-01-03 23:58:47
I have ordered the new crane now, so I am just waiting for it to arrive.
Post 808481 by stribo on 2017-01-04 07:46:56
Looking good. :)
Post 808483 by stricky1967 on 2017-01-04 12:10:38
wow, looks great
Post 809429 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-02-06 14:22:52
I haven't been entirely idle or lacking in Wobblyness. https://drivetribe.com/p/EUQXEkuPS8Sm078waEjSSg/FSTNJ2LDSHqbqMlslB5Icg
Besides this I also fitted my bottom pulley (for the aux. belt) on backwards, which is why it didn't line up and the belt was half hanging off. DOH! And yes I did thing for a while that the crank or bottom timing belt pulley was a different width/length. But other than that - it is perfect (ahem).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31352[/ATTACH]
Post 812274 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-05 14:24:51
Moved on a bit..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31613[/ATTACH]
I'd say I was 90% of the way there now. Still battling a few minor niggles - but the stupid rebuild following me bending the exhaust valves on #5 on the first cam cover fit are now behind me. I have a long term fuel trim error that I am chasing down (bought some smoke pellets). Talked to Shark today about tuning the damn thing. Craig is designing me some custom covers. I have finally managed to recess the chassis (lump hammer style) to stop the 3" from catching. The GWE sounds nice (if not a little loud) but the new collector has pulled it up some so it was necessary to knock several shades of poo in various places to stop it pinging on various bits going over bumps in the road.
Post 812279 by t5 pete on 2017-06-05 17:21:11
Good news dave
Post 812280 by MoleT-5R on 2017-06-05 19:54:34
Good to here your progress Dave, is the fuel trim issue lean or rich..??
Post 812283 by t5 pete on 2017-06-05 21:48:22
Minds well ask the question alotbof us are thinking will we be seeing the ssb at York or Avon this year
Post 812285 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-05 22:02:08
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;812280]Good to here your progress Dave, is the fuel trim issue lean or rich..??[/QUOTE] VIDA states long term fuel trim upper limit.
Post 812286 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-05 22:06:49
[QUOTE=t5 pete;812283]Minds well ask the question alotbof us are thinking will we be seeing the ssb at York or Avon this year[/QUOTE] I dearly hope so. I have high hopes, proper sticky tyres and it looks like Dean has upped his game too.
Post 812291 by t5 pete on 2017-06-05 23:07:15
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;812286]I dearly hope so. I have high hopes, proper sticky tyres and it looks like Dean has upped his game too.[/QUOTE]
God knows with Dean it's all top secret
Post 812298 by MoleT-5R on 2017-06-06 09:42:54
With the long term trim fault, air/vac leak looks most likely, but did see mention of faulty/on its way out oxygen sensor could contribute to this code without throwing its own code, might be worth swapping out if you have a spare to see if that clears the issue. Failing that as you mentioned, smoke testing I'd do next as I'd not think that your maf is at fault.
Post 812312 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-06-06 21:03:41
Sounds like we need another Shrewsbury meet.......
Post 812318 by ExternalError on 2017-06-07 09:25:57
id be up for a Shrewsbury meet ill be in a merc now though, I'll park well out the way
Post 812328 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-08 01:30:48
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;812298]With the long term trim fault, air/vac leak looks most likely, but did see mention of faulty/on its way out oxygen sensor could contribute to this code without throwing its own code, might be worth swapping out if you have a spare to see if that clears the issue. Failing that as you mentioned, smoke testing I'd do next as I'd not think that your maf is at fault.[/QUOTE]
MAF & ETM are brand spanking new from FRF. I replaced a check valve in the EVAP line and did 90 miles yesterday and it seemed much happier. There were some flutters at the same point 2800 under mild acceleration/ partial throttle, but they seemed to dissolve as the miles rolled by, so it could be MAF scaling or bad partial mapping? There were no lights until I got a bit carried away, on the way and pushed her up to 1 bar. Again she complained of long term fuel trim upper limit. I think the fuel trims get reset when the DTC is reset, because after I did it, using TORQUE PRO - the fuel trim was all over the place. She wouldn't start and stay started, idle went weird and it didn't settle down again for 20 minutes or so. So I am happy enough to think that this is more likely to do with the map itself, though it wouldn't harm to do a swap on the lamdba sensor (which one - I assume you mean the front one?). Sadly I don't have one I can use. I need to do the 2nd oil change now. Just toying with the decision to either use mineral oil again or start on the semi-synth?
Post 812329 by MoleT-5R on 2017-06-08 07:10:46
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;812328]MAF & ETM are brand spanking new from FRF. I replaced a check valve in the EVAP line and did 90 miles yesterday and it seemed much happier. There were some flutters at the same point 2800 under mild acceleration/ partial throttle, but they seemed to dissolve as the miles rolled by, so it could be MAF scaling or bad partial mapping? There were no lights until I got a bit carried away, on the way and pushed her up to 1 bar. Again she complained of long term fuel trim upper limit. I think the fuel trims get reset when the DTC is reset, because after I did it, using TORQUE PRO - the fuel trim was all over the place. She wouldn't start and stay started, idle went weird and it didn't settle down again for 20 minutes or so. So I am happy enough to think that this is more likely to do with the map itself, though it wouldn't harm to do a swap on the lamdba sensor (which one - I assume you mean the front one?). Sadly I don't have one I can use. I need to do the 2nd oil change now. Just toying with the decision to either use mineral oil again or start on the semi-synth?[/QUOTE]
front was the one I was thinking of, I think the plugs differ from the 850 ones, I do have a v70 one here that I could send you to try if the plug is right, good to hear your getting out and about in her, that will spur you on to get her finished and on the strip...:)
Post 812335 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-08 11:42:37
Even with discount FRF will want 250 quid for a new front O2. I wish I knew more about how VIDA works - I've really only scratched the surface. Apparently you can log AFR? I have a wide band AFR gauge but no where to screw it in & TBH once the mapping is done I don't think I will have the mental space to track AFR AND boost whilst driving.
Post 812336 by Wobbly Dave on 2017-06-08 11:56:58
GIYF - just reading up on VS how to log using VIDA.
Post 812362 by MoleT-5R on 2017-06-09 16:04:19
I will soon be logging with 4.4 and tunerpro and just in the process of setting up vida on my laptop....that could take a while with my computer skill set these days, I used to be good with all that stuff but I have lapsed some what over the years and now need to try and catch back up very quickly.
Post 817021 by Wobbly Dave on 2018-08-09 10:35:01
GWE exhaust was replaced for one fabricated by ShemTek. There is a long list of additional work going on not just including replacing the fuel sender with an 850 so that a return line can be added. Rising rate FPR and Nuke fuel rail is going in. There is additional fabrication on the harness bar. Rear trailing arm bushes have been done too (I think they were original?).
Sadly I couldn't get the Momo steering wheel to fit. The boss doesn't have the right fitting for turn signal cancel and it is too much of a pain in the ar$e to have a car that doesn't have self cancelling signals.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32195[/ATTACH]
Hopefully once the fueling is sorted out the real tuning with all the new mods including WMI can be completed. Some days I find it hard to maintain the enthusiasm to keep this going, but I don't want this car to go onto the long list of failed projects. BTW I've not seen the car since March.
Post 817022 by MoleT-5R on 2018-08-09 11:10:10
It's good to here that work is still progressing Dave, but as you say, it is hard to keep pushing on with these projects and even harder when our main 1/4 mile playgrounds have been closed. Hopefully York will be back up and running by the time the SSB is ready for action.
Post 817035 by Wobbly Dave on 2018-08-10 14:33:14
I still have your closed deck spare engine thing here.
Post 820180 by MoleT-5R on 2020-08-05 20:06:25
Update time surely Dave....???
Post 820329 by Wobbly Dave on 2020-09-02 21:31:15
A long overdue update.
I sent Betsy to Shemtek back in March 2018. My Volvo SME list has grown shorter over time and I still like Shem, however communication over that time was protracted and difficult, with sporadic IMs over social media.
Back in 2009 when this thread started I had little to care about. When I started the Garrett GTX conversion, in 2012 - I similarly was pretty care free. These days time is not my friend, so it was less important to push for a final solution. This is as much a contributory factor in the delay. Combine with the distance, balance family needs, my work and the "dream" - who's purpose has diluted over time, all added up to a 30 month holiday. TBH over the last year I was just wanting to get her back.
I like the new exhaust and the poor clutch feel has been resolved.
Anyway I've cleaned her up and started resolving the issues.
Originally when I got Betsy back - she was making no boost. This was due to a sticky actuator and the fact that the intake temp sensor had popped out of the hole in the DO888 pipework.
I have resolved this now, but now I have the opposite issue.
The boost is creeping. I thought this was originally down the the Blitz valve unit, not letting the boost out - which I have changed for brand new unit, but it appears to be a limitation of the turbine hole. With the gate wired fully open she's creeping up to 1.6 bar above 5K rpm. I fully intend to get this sorted either using an external wastegate or modifying the existing port. I also think that the angle to the W/G arm is sub-optimal, but unless I can get the gasses out, this cannot be resolved.
Over the last few times I've been out trying to sort the boost or at least establish the root cause, the long-term fuel trim upper limit code has illuminated my dashboard. (DTC error code 261A). It was pointed out to me yesterday that the idle fuel pressure was on the low side according to the gauge on the aeromotive FPR - just 2 bar. Anyway this evening I was going to adjust it up. I clamped off the vacuum line and it appears that the FPR was sticking or something, as it now reads 3 bar clamped and about 2.75 bar under idle vacuum.
I need to get some AFR logging to understand how the fueling is going and hopefully get the car dialled in.
I hope soon to get the brakes less squeaky, fit the overdue parts for harness and sort the rusty body panels. I am not 100% happy with the ride on the BC coilovers. Last night on B roads kinda made me feel a bit queezy.
Tonnes to do, but I am not ready to throw in the towel. 8.5 years into fitting this damn GTX and still not quite there.
Post 820331 by MoleT-5R on 2020-09-03 01:10:19
Looked to ride lovely from where I was sitting, as I've said in another post you do need to get an afr gauge in there, if not just for peace of mind on a build like yours, but with the right one it can also give some datalogging, which going by what are small niggles, could possibly point you in the right direction, keep going as you are very close now to what I think you where trying to achieve, it's all a massive learning curve, as are my next steps...:hidesbehi
Post 820334 by Wobbly Dave on 2020-09-03 13:14:02
Well after looking through some recommendations - I went ahead and ordered the AEM X series AFR gauge from DemonTweeks - which comes with an ODBii pass-through connection. It has a very high sample rate and has the added benefit that it appears to be able to piggy back into existing data log software - though with my ECU it is not a given.
Hopefully this will provide the missing data, so I can finally baseline the fueling. I've lubbed up the FPR spring and can see that the gauge is moving when the inlet vacuum changes. I pinged Shem and he said that 3 bar was correct, so we will see what happens once the gauge is installed. What I need now is recommendations for rolling road, who aren't too far away and don't want many thousands of pounds to get the baseline.
Post 820342 by MoleT-5R on 2020-09-04 09:58:18
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;820334]Well after looking through some recommendations - I went ahead and ordered the AEM X series AFR gauge from DemonTweeks - which comes with an ODBii pass-through connection. It has a very high sample rate and has the added benefit that it appears to be able to piggy back into existing data log software - though with my ECU it is not a given.
Hopefully this will provide the missing data, so I can finally baseline the fueling. I've lubbed up the FPR spring and can see that the gauge is moving when the inlet vacuum changes. I pinged Shem and he said that 3 bar was correct, so we will see what happens once the gauge is installed. What I need now is recommendations for rolling road, who aren't too far away and don't want many thousands of pounds to get the baseline.[/QUOTE]
I do believe there is a rolling road in Rednall near Oswestry, what they are called I can not recall at present but I can find out for you. Good to here you are putting in an afr gauge, that will really help with seeing what it happening with the fuelling. I do love the AEM range of products, I just wish they did a combined Oil Pressure/Oil Temperature Gauge, as I have a space in dash for one gauge only and want to be able to see both of those at a glance.
Post 820344 by Wobbly Dave on 2020-09-04 12:14:27
I have the oil temp and the oil pressure coming through on additional sensors into the Blitz already. I think my oil pressure is fine. Not sure where my oil temps should be in reference to the coolant. Generally under load it will run about 4 bar oil press and max out on 103 degrees on oil temp. So long as it remains in a good operating window for those parameters, that's all I care about.
Typically it runs around 100 degrees C
Currently running gulf competition oil 10w-60
Post 820347 by Wobbly Dave on 2020-09-04 22:53:13
Gauge landed today. Think I will need to mount it on the a pillar. Where's the best place for the boss?
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Post 820351 by MoleT-5R on 2020-09-05 12:31:26
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;820347]Gauge landed today. Think I will need to mount it on the a pillar. Where's the best place for the boss?
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
I think I worked the distance out from the measurement the instructions gave and applied that from the outlet flange on the turbo back down the downpipe IIRC.
Post 821280 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-04-30 00:28:25
Again with COVID and time passing away - my thoughts on where I am going next. There is boost creep. I originally thought the SBC was playing up so at some expense I replaced the twin solenoid controller. Makes no difference. Boost is uncontrolled above 5K and peaks out around 1.7 bar. Thankfully the engine appears strong enough to take it.
I still have an AFR bung to fit. My main thoughts now are towards boost control. I don't think I want to change the exhaust manifold - not after all that work and money, to fit something with an external w/g fitting. e.g. http://swedenexhaust.se/en/volvo/198-grenror-850-v70-s70-5-cyl.html#/wastegate-external_wastegate/turbo_flange-t3/egt_1_8_npt-0/type_of_wastegate-tial_v60mm_v_band/material-mildsteel plus I am not sure this would clear the brake booster on a LHD car. TBH boost creep was never an issue I'd thought I'd have to face. I can either port the W/G hole further and increase the flapper size? or fit an intercept between the manifold and the gtx, with some kind of v-band flange or feed pipe to an external w/g.
Post 821284 by MoleT-5R on 2021-04-30 10:36:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;821280]Again with COVID and time passing away - my thoughts on where I am going next. There is boost creep. I originally thought the SBC was playing up so at some expense I replaced the twin solenoid controller. Makes no difference. Boost is uncontrolled above 5K and peaks out around 1.7 bar. Thankfully the engine appears strong enough to take it.
I still have an AFR bung to fit. My main thoughts now are towards boost control. I don't think I want to change the exhaust manifold - not after all that work and money, to fit something with an external w/g fitting. e.g. http://swedenexhaust.se/en/volvo/198-grenror-850-v70-s70-5-cyl.html#/wastegate-external_wastegate/turbo_flange-t3/egt_1_8_npt-0/type_of_wastegate-tial_v60mm_v_band/material-mildsteel plus I am not sure this would clear the brake booster on a LHD car. TBH boost creep was never an issue I'd thought I'd have to face. I can either port the W/G hole further and increase the flapper size? or fit an intercept between the manifold and the gtx, with some kind of v-band flange or feed pipe to an external w/g.[/QUOTE]
I'm assuming that you think the wastegate is not allowing enough exhaust gases to by-pass the turbine, thus boost creeps up uncontrolled, is the the wastegate actually opening fully under pressure conditions ?? is the start point of the wastegate set correctly and is it sprung correctly for your application ?? finally if you back off the wastegate set load at rest, does this improve/reduce the boost creep or make it worse, or even have no effect at all ?? Worth having a play with the wastegate with a mittyvac and seeing how it's operating and open. Also playing with the setting on the rod may help (reducing it's load at rest), as it costs nothing but a bit of time in the grand scale of things and may help point you in the right direction or even possibly even solve the issue. Good luck Dave hope you find these ideas useful.
Post 821293 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-05-01 10:11:25
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;821284]I'm assuming that you think the wastegate is not allowing enough exhaust gases to by-pass the turbine, thus boost creeps up uncontrolled, is the the wastegate actually opening fully under pressure conditions ?? is the start point of the wastegate set correctly and is it sprung correctly for your application ?? finally if you back off the wastegate set load at rest, does this improve/reduce the boost creep or make it worse, or even have no effect at all ?? Worth having a play with the wastegate with a mittyvac and seeing how it's operating and open. Also playing with the setting on the rod may help (reducing it's load at rest), as it costs nothing but a bit of time in the grand scale of things and may help point you in the right direction or even possibly even solve the issue. Good luck Dave hope you find these ideas useful.[/QUOTE]
I have tested the car with the wastegate flap wired fully open to prove the boost creep, which is self evident. I have played around with different settings and used the mittyvac I bought recently to ensure that the SBC was working properly (generating a false pressure into the SBC solenoid to check that it is releasing the boost) and to ensure that the pretention on the W/g actuator was correct. I definitely have boost creep, because above 5K even with the flapper wired fully open it made over 1.5 bar boost.
Post 821294 by MoleT-5R on 2021-05-02 12:47:21
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;821293]I have tested the car with the wastegate flap wired fully open to prove the boost creep, which is self evident. I have played around with different settings and used the mittyvac I bought recently to ensure that the SBC was working properly (generating a false pressure into the SBC solenoid to check that it is releasing the boost) and to ensure that the pretention on the W/g actuator was correct. I definitely have boost creep, because above 5K even with the flapper wired fully open it made over 1.5 bar boost.[/QUOTE]
It would seem that the wastegate is under spec for your application as it's still driving the turbine to give 1.5 bar of boost even when fully open, is there a larger option one for your turbo?? as it seems a bit undersize compared to the turbine housing in one of your earlier pics in your thread.
Post 821295 by MoleT-5R on 2021-05-02 14:38:04
Scrub that as I've just been further back in your thread and can clearly see the hole is in the GTX turbine housing and not on the wastegate as I had assumed, that said it does seem a very small hole for all those gases to by-pass the turbine when your hard on the loud pedal and the wastegate is trying to control the boost, could the hole diameter be increased to give a bit more control when the flap is open, just a thought....
Post 821299 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-05-02 22:20:40
Ade - I looked at these and this also was my first reaction. For a kick off the zircotec coating has been set into the hole. So my plan now is to remove the GTX and see how much the hole can be increased without replacing the flapper and clear out the blue ££££ out of the hole.
Post 821301 by Dangerous Dave on 2021-05-02 22:38:21
That hole looks smaller than a factory TD04HL turbo wastegate.
Post 821302 by MoleT-5R on 2021-05-03 07:35:52
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;821301]That hole looks smaller than a factory TD04HL turbo wastegate.[/QUOTE]
It does look tiny for such a large turbo tbh.
Post 821389 by Morgan Harris on 2021-05-24 03:21:03
How was this build so far? Its been weeks since the last upgrade.
Post 821398 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-05-27 12:02:11
Been years more like. I am in the process of moving house. The turbo needs to come off. And I can't really do this until after the house move. Betsy is going to stay with my FIL in Wales very soon.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Post 821399 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-05-27 12:09:25
Been years more like. I am in the process of moving house. The turbo needs to come off. And I can't really do this until after the house move. Betsy is going to stay with my FIL in Wales very soon.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Post 821711 by Wobbly Dave on 2021-10-07 22:12:48
Volvos never die - they just live off old ones.
I used the opportunity to have some long overdue paintwork done on Betsy. Windscreen has been removed to sort the rust around the apperture particularly at the top n/s corner of the A pillar. Also the massive wart of rust pushing through the ns rear quarter has been sorted. I got hold of a donor quarter from someone breaking a C70 coupe. I sent him some spot weld drilling tools and he got me most of the quarter. My repair shop guy in Telford took what he needed from the donor panel to essentially replace most of area under the crease line. I've also had the bonnet and rear bumper redone for cosmetic damage, so she'll look like a new car when I get her back.[ATTACH=CONFIG]33131[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33132[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33133[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33134[/ATTACH]
Post 821713 by Dangerous Dave on 2021-10-07 23:05:10
Ah she'll look lovely. That's one of the things on the list for my green beast, respray.
Post 821715 by MoleT-5R on 2021-10-09 08:17:21
As above, she'll look lovely..... especially flying through the highlands and also as above I need a respray to, but on Gul.
Post 821928 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-02-27 20:39:09
Picking Betsy up with new MOT and paint job from the body shop end of this week. Really looking forward to it. Once I've got her to Jedburgh - I can start trying to remediate the overboost and hopefully find a final remap to suit. I just don't think I have the budget for stand alone.
Post 821930 by Dangerous Dave on 2022-02-28 22:26:20
Nice one Dave, will be nice to see it on the road again.
I was around your old haunt Telford today at Newdale Primary.
Post 821931 by MoleT-5R on 2022-03-01 10:22:57
You thinking of using Vast for your tune Dave ?, I think that's who jimbob used, afaik they have good reputation.
Post 822024 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-04-30 20:15:08
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33162[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33163[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33164[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33165[/ATTACH]
The new actuator bracket has been painted and fitted now and the port on the W/G opened out to as much as possible. I've had the bung welded in to the downpipe and redone the wrap and painted it in cool-tec bronze.
Post 822026 by MoleT-5R on 2022-05-02 07:26:03
How much bigger is the wastegate hole now, to how it was originally Dave, if you don't mind me asking, do you have a before and after measurement....?
Post 822030 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-05-04 22:23:44
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;822026]How much bigger is the wastegate hole now, to how it was originally Dave, if you don't mind me asking, do you have a before and after measurement....?[/QUOTE]
I fenced the work out to someone else. I only noted the fact that by the hinge side there was a few mm of meat left that could be taken away. I have been assured that it will do the business.
Post 822031 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-05-04 22:38:43
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33166[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33167[/ATTACH]
Wife overlocked a section of heat wrap to form a heat shield for the new AFR sensor loom. Fits nicely into the space. A bit of fettling to do (suspect that there is a small exhaust leak) - or maybe just burn off from some oil or something. Should be able to get the gauge in reasonably easily - though the plug is quite large, so getting it through the OS firewall may be a small issue. Getting there!
Post 822033 by MoleT-5R on 2022-05-05 08:56:08
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;822030]I fenced the work out to someone else. I only noted the fact that by the hinge side there was a few mm of meat left that could be taken away. I have been assured that it will do the business.[/QUOTE]
That's great, hopefully this will iron out the issue. Good to she Betsy progressing again, I now have to pull my finger out and get on with my projects, the have been waiting way to long now for attention.
Post 822061 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-05-16 21:27:39
Our new house has a steep drive and getting in and out of the garage is a PITA, especially with the low ground clearance on BR coilovers. I finally finished the necessary ramps needed to get Betsy over the threshold & more over managed to get her out of the garage completely. So I was able to go out on Sunday evening for a brief shakedown up the A68 just to the top of the Anglo-Scots border (awesome hairpin bends - its almost alpine). The good news is that the SBC boost controller and the ported W/G means that the overboost is now resolved. Held exactly what I told it to do (I only went upto 1.25 bar). Pulls smooth as silk. I need to get my wheel balance & alignment checked but as far as I can tell - there are no significant leaks.
Also my replacement oil sensor (the old one snapped off the plug) for the SBC. I was worried that after all this time they would stop supplying it. Ideally I would like to tap the sump properly so that is wasn't necessary to twist the loom every time I change the oil.
Epic sunset pics looking back towards my new home. Didn't stay long - it was bloody freezing up there!
Next on the list is to fit the replacement sensor and get the AEM AFR gauge wired in and connected. Hopefully then I can book a dyno session and get the mapping finished/ optimized.[ATTACH=CONFIG]33169[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33170[/ATTACH]
Post 822066 by JT on 2022-05-17 18:08:56
looking good :cool:
Post 822092 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-15 23:18:11
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33173[/ATTACH]
Bricking it a bit now. Going to Sitech in Dumfermline on Friday for a RR day. I feel very nervous about what may or may not happen. Looking for 1.5 bar and see what kind of figures Betsy makes. Been a long time coming.
Post 822093 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-16 08:13:29
Good luck Dave, will have been a long time since she was last on a rolling road I guess, it will be interesting to see what she makes.
Did you get the AFR gauge fitted in and working..??
Post 822094 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-17 00:03:37
Yes I am very pleased with the install - but unfortunately it doesn't provide data logging as I originally thought it would.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33174[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33175[/ATTACH]
The mount is excellent and the vent still works though the direction of flow is now fixed, but you can still close the shutter at the back.
Post 822095 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-18 01:49:18
I got to Sitech Racing in Dunfermline just before 1 pm. We put Betsy on the dyno & started fairly gently around 1.25 bar just to see what was going on. We did 14 runs in just under 90 minutes tweaking the FPR and the methanol as we went.
The best figures are lower on torque than my 2014 run on HLM however Shem did say that the values in the original map were fairly suicidal as witnesses when that engine let go at Shakespear. Simon at Sitech thought that was probably as a result of the EGT's getting too high which warped the head slightly. Hopefully that can't happen now with the ARP studs and less aggressive map
She's definitely more than 400 - maybe as high as 420 at the crank. Still it's a good day and Simon seemed to know his stuff. The graph profile is very smooth and feels progressive on the road & also we have made the idle a little better too.
These are the numbers I recorded using Torque pro during run 8 which is very similar to the ones above - Torque pro only polls once per second.
[TABLE="width: 954"]
[TR]
[TD] Device Time[/TD]
[TD]Engine RPM(rpm)[/TD]
[TD]Intake Air Temperature(°C)[/TD]
[TD]Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s)[/TD]
[TD]Throttle Position(Manifold)(%)[/TD]
[TD]Timing Advance(°)[/TD]
[TD]Turbo Boost & Vacuum Gauge(psi)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:15[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]1845[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]28[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]31.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]100.0[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]-1.63[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:16[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]2110[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]27[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]39.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]100.0[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]24.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]-0.25[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:17[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]2773[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]27[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]61.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]99.6[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]2.37[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:18[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]3053[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]27[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]76.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]100.0[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]22.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]3.92[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:19[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]3561[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]27[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]171.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]99.2[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]20[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]17.86[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:20[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]4735[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]22[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]253.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]99.6[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]7.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]27.52[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:21[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]5476[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]22[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]331.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]96.9[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]9.5[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.60[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:22[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]6631[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]22[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]341.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]99.2[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]14[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]23.01[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]17/06/2022 14:02:23[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]7204[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]20[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]354.25[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]96.9[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]14[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]20.62[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
The meth timing seems better and you can see how well the IATs are managed once it starts.
There are a few more bits to do & maybe one day I can go back and see if we can't squeeze some more torque out?
Post 822096 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-18 07:17:55
Good to see You and Betsy survived the rolling road, the water/meth certainly does make a big difference to the IAT's, I must get my gauges fixed in olive, so I can see what's happening at the intake and at the TB, I mistakenly plugged them in wrong and fried them I'm guessing as they don't read right at all.
As for your Aem AFR gauge not datalogging, did you buy the failsafe one, that's the one I fitted and it datalogs 45-60mins or something like that.
Post 822097 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-18 09:35:10
Dean was selling his Aem wmi with loom if that's what you need
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Post 822098 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-18 17:10:50
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;822097]Dean was selling his Aem wmi with loom if that's what you need
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
Thanks, but my wmi is fine, it's the auxillary IAT guages I fried, I have new ones but need to mill down the plastic casings to get them to fit my mounting plate in the spare din radio slot.
Post 822101 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-20 01:39:09
Here is a sobering thought after the recent euphoria. The 2014 graph on the dead MJA engine in red vs. the ShemTek engine in blue ( from Friday last) . I am giving away a lot of torque lower down -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33177[/ATTACH]
I seem to be a fair way down on torque particularly around 4.5K rpm on the ShemTek map vs. the old 19T map. Bear in mind that Shem said at the time that the mapping was almost suicidal. I wonder if I should "shut up and put up" with it & also if you run the dyno from 1700 rpm in 4th vs. the 3K that Hamish did whether that has any bearing on it?
Post 822102 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-20 09:59:32
I'd guess Hamish ran from 3k to avoid any possible rod bending low down issues, as for mapping have you thought of using Vast, I'm sure JamesT5R has used them with good results and all done remotely.
Post 822107 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-20 20:10:14
I emailed Simon @ Sitech and he wondered if the new ported W/G might not be shutting properly so I think I might put an extra turn on the pre-load & see if it spools a bit quicker.
Post 822109 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-20 22:25:04
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;822102]as for mapping have you thought of using Vast, I'm sure JamesT5R has used them with good results and all done remotely.[/QUOTE] But my car is no M4.4 its ME7
Post 822111 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-21 10:25:24
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;822109]But my car is no M4.4 its ME7[/QUOTE]
Oh yes, I was forgetting that slight stumbling block, there must be good me7 tuners out there by now surely...??
Post 822113 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-21 22:29:47
Shem is a good tuner - but really hard work. Betsy was with him for the best part of 2 years & progress was painfully slow - I had more patience than most hospitals & saints combined - in the end I got the mechanical work completed but there was little or no interaction with regards getting the most of out of it. The fuelling is fine. My problem is that the vast gaps in time - I forget how to work the SBC properly. I also think Shem didn't know how to & his solution was to go aftermarket ECU, which is too much now for me. So no - I won't be re-looming the car from scratch. It's taken 10 years to get here. There is some element of compromise. I am just looking to finesse this and just enjoy it - get some clowns back together and see if we can't get to York Raceway/ Hill climb/ track day/ RR day or just a car park.
I've been re-reading the Blitz SBC instructions again today & I think I can tweak the boost map to increase the gain (rate at which the turbo spools up) & get more torque earlier on. She did it in 2014 and I think I can have the 500Nm again too.
Post 822115 by Moonpiemagic on 2022-06-23 10:57:51
Yeh I had my T5 initially mapped by Shem and I have to say it was an absolutly appauling job and it took him 6 months to still leave my car incomplete. I have always had issues finding tuners for my car.
But I found a good garage down in Portsmouth called PSL performance who specialise with ECU on the bench jobs and thy did a brilliant job. So if you are ever stuck for mapping, they are defenitly work having a word with. They mapped my 2009 Volvo S40 T5 to 410bhp, completly pulled out everything Shem did.
Post 822117 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-23 19:38:35
I have yet to master my blitz boost controller, it's way more simple than yours, but I don't see how mine can see rpm and don't believe it does, then again I have yet to get olive back on the road to test it anyway, so it will be a while yet, good to see your still pushing on with Betsy
Post 822122 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-06-28 00:40:04
The gain on my controller was set right down to zero - so this explains why the torque was lower than expected. I put a new powerflex lower torque mount on the transmission. I also noticed that the inner CV on the short half shaft had decided to empty all the grease onto the subframe - which is less than ideal.
Post 822123 by MoleT-5R on 2022-06-28 07:54:44
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;822122]The gain on my controller was set right down to zero - so this explains why the torque was lower than expected. I put a new powerflex lower torque mount on the transmission. I also noticed that the inner CV on the short half shaft had decided to empty all the grease onto the subframe - which is less than ideal.[/QUOTE]
So back to the rolling roll again soon then...?
Post 822206 by claymore on 2022-08-16 19:06:03
I think I'd like to keep the torque as low as you can, to much torque low down ruins gearboxes and drive shafts, I seem to remember I had a really flat torque curve and only 365lb ft, but 434bhp.
Post 822213 by Wobbly Dave on 2022-08-28 23:04:58
The pin hole in the inner CV boot is fixed. There was a minor oil weep from the oil return which I have tweaked today.
However I am feeling a bit frustrated. One of the main issues was running too much boost in low gear which caused detonation and a loss of power at 5K rpm from a standing start.
I have managed to figure out how to program the boost map across the 4 available channels in the Blitz SBC i-color. I was trying to set it so that it would stay lower until a certain speed is reached to prevent the knock back I was experiencing from a standing start. So I set channel 1 to run 1.4 bar and channel 2 as 1.6 bar above 40 mph. Each section is about 12.5 mph. I tested each channel individually and the boost it makes is pretty spot on. So then I set the whole thing up to run under the MAP mode & it just doesn't do what it promised. Both channels in map mode only make about 1.1 bar, in stark contrast to what they do when individually selected. This is really annoying because as far as I can tell the only difference is the mode that the SBC is running in.
I don't really understand why the ignition timing gets pulled back so much around 5K and why this boost cut/fuel cut occurs above a certain pressure. Is this just the nature of the P80 beast or is this more about the mapping.
You can see the map mode in this video - https://youtu.be/HOM5SIDuGeY?t=128
Post 822559 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-06 12:49:41
Replaced the oil return seal again, as the other one was clearly still weeping a bit. Tightened to 20Nm - which is 8Nm more than the book value. I am toying with the idea of an aftermarket ECU, because I can't figure out how to get the best of the current set-up.
Post 822564 by Dangerous Dave on 2023-06-06 23:04:46
I was thinking the same Dave, some kind of aftermarket ECU as mine just cannot cope with the all the changes, especially the injectors, just cannot get it to fuel right.
Post 822566 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-07 12:32:52
DM'ed Shem on WhatsApp about what he'd recommend. He said the MaxxECU Race Premium, with open ended harness. Not wishing to appear stupid but I guess an open ended harness is just the wires? Dunno not sure.
My main worry is what will happen to all the functions you take for granted, such as turn indicators, clocks etc, once the ECU is replaced.
If this was just a purely a track car/ no MOT then I wouldn't be that bothered. But it isn't.
Anyway I am waiting on a house sale before committing any additional funds to this project.
Post 822579 by Dangerous Dave on 2023-06-08 18:32:15
Yeah I'd guess open ended is just wires as you can get some harnesses that are pre terminated for specific vehicle plugs/sockets.
The lights and other functions will be controlled by the CEM and you'd just be replacing the ECM though there would probably need to be some CAN communication for the dash instruments like RPM, engine temp, etc.
Post 822581 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-12 09:57:36
Good news bad news. Last week I change the oil (10w 60 fully synth - the expensive stuff). Not driven that far since 2021 (maybe 1500 miles) - https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=V706+KGJ and passed the MOT. I went for a couple of runs and pulling onto the driveway saw a long line of oil. Dumped all 5L somewhere along the way. I noticed the oil temps go up to 114 and backed off/ coasted home. Oil pressure was still OK. I think the engine is OK. Some had got onto the aux belt and subsequently sprayed it everywhere. Initially I thought it was the PAS fluid, but that's green.
I just hope I haven't done any long term damage. I hate entropy. I am wondering if the stock breather system, which is relatively new is up to the task?
Post 822583 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-16 09:45:21
Isolated the leak to the inlet cam oil seal. FRF are sending one and I'll get it in over the weekend.
Post 822584 by Dangerous Dave on 2023-06-16 22:11:28
Oh no Dave. hopefully it's not caused any damage!
Post 822589 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-20 15:39:24
Leak looks fixed. Managed to do the fix without locking up the cams. I also reworked the BBK so hopefully it wont squeal as much. Weather has been a bit damp, so not had chance to test it yet.
Post 822591 by Wobbly Dave on 2023-06-23 22:25:26
Tested and seems fine. No leaks. Brakes still squeal like a stuck pig. Can't find any metal shims online - what material should I use?
Post 822594 by Dangerous Dave on 2023-06-24 22:35:10
[QUOTE=Wobbly Dave;822591]Tested and seems fine. No leaks. Brakes still squeal like a stuck pig. Can't find any metal shims online - what material should I use?[/QUOTE]
Bigg Red pads?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brake-Anti-Squeal-Backing-Universal-fitment/dp/B07QBCGP17
says for Mini but think they're just generic
Good - init?
Heat shield installed around the PAS pipe - has velcro type backing which made it easy to wrap around the pipe without having to disconnect it.
I dremelled the branch with a cutting tool a fraction behind the line
and smoothed it with a file head. Beading was created with the beading tool.
Similar process for the hole - Cut...
Smoothed off
Few shots of the installation with the wire re-enforced AST silicon.
Roll on Tuesday.
But it really was a much more elegant solution. I went to see the guys at Co-ordsport with the spare pump mount. They assured me the brushless motors in these new pumps are the muts nuts & will easily run rings around the bosch 044.
The OEM loom plugs straight in. I did have to do some fine adjustment on the bottom holder
but the earth loop and all the pipes went on without any modification.
All tested - it works well - I need a dyno run to confirm but the lack of noise is a blissful thing & having my boot back without being paranoid about things getting trapped or kinking the fuel line at the wrong time. Anyway - "job's agood'n"
Other mod is the new poly top mount I got from PFS. Absolutely no movement in the engine at the top at all. There is a vibration/noise offset that I can live with. Engine response is sharper. You should see the play in the old one. LOL
Need lastly to sort out the idle map. Long term fuel trim is too rich & will do my race cat no favours. I hope to have that done this coming week. Really looking forward to next weekend & the 1st drag meeting. Look to put down some base figures to improve from.
I also added AEM's EGT gauge and mounted in the spare radio din slot....
and now mounted to the left of the EGT gauge are these temparature gauge stacked on top of each other...
