Rydell's 850 Race Car
Posts
Post 420773 by Rydell on 2011-11-01 16:54:35
Hi there.
As I am now getting to the stage where I am going to need advice and help with all things 854 T5, i thought I would start a thread to chart the progress of what I assure you, will be a slow burn race car preparation thread.
If I can get the car in some sort of order, and out for the last race of next season I will be extatic!!!
So, where do I start?
Having competed in sprints and hillclimbs for around 5 seasons in a Clio 172 Cup, I had to give up due to the recession and a distinct lack of funds. Jump forwards 2 years and I was attending the end of season sprint event held by NSCC at Thoresby, just outside Ollerton, Notts.
I was talking to some of my old friends while watching the action, and talk turned to whether I would do any motorsport again?
I said yes, but this time I would like to do something a little different!!!!
At the time I had a picture on my phone of an 850 estate touring car rep, which I showed to my friends. There were a few raised eyebrows, but the general consensus was that it would be a good idea.
So, on returning home, I fired up the lap top and behold, an 854 T5 in white on Ebay for £600!!
A deal was struck and the Volvo made its way straight into the workshop, where it is going to spend the next few months undergoing its transformation into a 1995 BTCC replica.
The first job was to remove around 200kgs of interior trim etc.
I then started to remove chunks of the wiring loom that was no longer going to be required.
As per the works cars, we also removed the various cross members from the floor pan which we would not be needing.
The hand brake tower has now been modified and will be re welded at the rear of the tunnel out of the way. The gear lever platform has also been removed and will be re made to allow the gear lever to be mounted further back and a little higher than standard. These mods are all a result of me being 6’ 3” and sitting quite far back in the car!
All the sound deadening pads have also been removed from the floor pan to help reduce weight further.
We then borrowed a seat from another competitor so we could weld in some 30mm box section for the seat rails in the right position. While adjusting the seating position, it became clear that the steering wheel was going to have to move. The adjustment bracket has been modified to allow more of a drop and slightly longer reach, and with the new steering wheel and boss in place is just right.
At the moment the car just keeps getting taller and taller as we remove more and more weight!
Compared with it its original condition:
This weeks tinkering has resulted in:
Bonnet pins fitted to bonnet and boot lid.
The boot lids inner skin has been cut down.
Door inner skins have been trimmed back.
Switch panel has been fabricated for battery cut off and starter button etc.
All battery wiring has been re-directed into the car. The battery will sit in a box in the passenger footwell.
I have also sent some rollcage specs off to a pipe bender to get a quote for the main hoop and front legs of the cage I have designed. Once the quote is back and I have enough money, the cage can start to go in and the interior will then be painted and we can move on to the engine bay!
More pics and updates will follow. I now have to try and get her running again. Following advice given in another thread, I may have to reinstate the transponder ring so the car will start again.
I’m going to need lots of advice on getting the car to handle and releasing more power from the engine etc, so stay tuned!
Post 420793 by JT on 2011-11-01 17:26:08
oh the memories come flooding back!! lol
just shout as an when you need some help, the guys on here are "second to none"!
I might be able to help, but I wouldn't bank on it!! lol
keep up the great work.
JT
Post 420828 by Jamest5r on 2011-11-01 18:54:06
Getting quite common these race car's lol, wish i had the space/cash to do it, any reason no-one is going for the 855?.
Post 420831 by JT on 2011-11-01 18:56:24
one word!
aero.........:)
Post 420834 by AndysR on 2011-11-01 18:59:01
Welcome to the fold, sounds like a nice interesting project. Keep us updated with your developments.
Post 420838 by Jim S70R on 2011-11-01 19:03:34
Very nice, welcome to the club and keep up the great work.
Post 420849 by antz on 2011-11-01 19:15:41
looking forward to seeing this unfold...
Post 420924 by Rydell on 2011-11-01 21:25:32
Only reason I didnt do an 855 was there wasnt one available at the right money at the time! 855 was definitely the inspiration for this project. My previous experience of Volvos are an 855 T5 CD and and 855R.
Post 420934 by Volvostorm on 2011-11-01 21:41:26
Cool! Another replica, we will have to all meet up up one day :)
Its starting to look really good.
Post 420953 by M-R-P on 2011-11-01 22:12:44
Really liking the look of this project. The Flying Moose and Claymore will agree with you about getting the bonnet pins in early ;) Welcome to the loonybin and please keep us posted on the project. :welcome:
Post 420954 by Volvostorm on 2011-11-01 22:15:25
[quote=martinrpeachey;420953]Really liking the look of this project. The Flying Moose and Claymore will agree with you about getting the bonnet pins in early ;) Welcome to the loonybin and please keep us posted on the project. :welcome:[/quote]
Yeah! Got mine to fit too!
Post 421021 by t5_monkey on 2011-11-02 08:25:04
awesome project keep the thread updated with lots of photos please!
Post 421042 by The Flying Moose on 2011-11-02 11:33:56
Nice project, love the Replica BTCC cars... especially roadworthy ones. Anyone who doesnt give them a second glance must be insane!
Post 421067 by martybelfastt5 on 2011-11-02 15:58:50
nice these are getting popular lol,,,,,surprise pedro hasnt thanked you for them grinder shots lol
Post 421153 by Rydell on 2011-11-02 19:04:38
Rickard runs once more.
Re-connected the transponder ring and taped the key to it. Car fired 3rd time of asking on its new starter button!! Woohoo!
The order for the roll cage main hoop and front legs is going in tomorrow. Should be ready in 1-2 weeks. Then fabrication can start on the rest of the climbing frame!
Must admit, the cage in Rickard is not as extensive as Johnny T's, biut is copied from the 1996 850 that is currently for sale in Holland. Anyone got £67,000 they dont want????
Post 421982 by Rydell on 2011-11-05 20:26:38
I have taken delivery of the 3mm steel that the feet of the cage and the base plates will be fabricated from. Can’t wait to try cutting this up!
So far so good!
Post 421983 by AndysR on 2011-11-05 20:26:43
Blimey, you have been busy...
Post 421985 by Rydell on 2011-11-05 20:34:31
[quote=AndysR;421983]Blimey, you have been busy...[/quote]
Mans got to have a hobby! I try and make the most of the time I get to play.
Post 421986 by Rydell on 2011-11-05 20:36:23
Anybody know of any major pit falls when dropping the engine out on the subframe. Want t o drop the lot out in one go so I can get around the engine and prep the engine bay. Also looking for uprated/solid bushed for the subframe, which will be seam welded.
Post 421988 by AndysR on 2011-11-05 20:39:02
[quote=Rydell;421985]Mans got to have a hobby! I try and make the most of the time I get to play.[/quote]
What a fantastic way to spend your spare time. I am insanely jealous.
I also love the fact that, despite it's age, there appears to be absolutely no rust and to add I bet it's not been treated like a fragile piece of china over the years either, coming to Volvo from a Ford background you really do appreciate how much thought and time has gone into the design and construction of a Volvo when compared to most other cars.
Post 422003 by Jamest5r on 2011-11-05 20:53:34
[quote=AndysR;421983]Blimey, you have been busy...[/quote]
Your not bloody wrong very good going make's my suspension and alternator change look like i was sitting around drinking beer all day :)
[quote=Rydell;421986]Anybody know of any major pit falls when dropping the engine out on the subframe. Want t o drop the lot out in one go so I can get around the engine and prep the engine bay. Also looking for uprated/solid bushed for the subframe, which will be seam welded.[/quote]
Dropping the sub-frame for a man of your obvious talent's will be easy lol, on tip i could suggest is do the steering from under the dash not by the sub-frame makes it so much easier to put back in.
Post 422017 by Jim S70R on 2011-11-05 21:09:53
You certainly have made good use of the day, I'm lovely the attention to detail your putting in this car. Great work!!
Itching to see the next update.
Post 422018 by JT on 2011-11-05 21:09:57
[quote=Rydell;421986]Anybody know of any major pit falls when dropping the engine out on the subframe. Want t o drop the lot out in one go so I can get around the engine and prep the engine bay. Also looking for uprated/solid bushed for the subframe, which will be seam welded.[/quote]
I have been searching for the same bushes, I think you (we...lol) are gonna have to get them made.
[quote=AndysR;421983]Blimey, you have been busy...[/quote]
at this rate, your be ready for the start of the season, Forget the last race!:)
[quote=jamest5r;422003]Your not bloody wrong very good going make's my suspension and alternator change look like i was sitting around drinking beer all day :)[/quote]
nothing wrong with a good beer mate!
quite agree, sooooo much easier done on the inside,especially having put mine back on today.
about time this thread was promoted to the projects section !!:B_thumb:
Post 422073 by Tomcat on 2011-11-05 22:04:14
Agreed, moved to 'Projects section'.
Post 422096 by T4Rick on 2011-11-05 22:47:03
That was a good read mate lol.how much do you rekon the car weights now
Post 422129 by Rydell on 2011-11-06 07:54:52
[quote=850Rick;422096]That was a good read mate lol.how much do you rekon the car weights now[/quote]
I'm hoping for around 1200 - 1250kgs and around 300 - 350bhp? Also hoping I can get the car to sit low enough on the suspension kits that are available.
Post 422130 by T4Rick on 2011-11-06 09:33:47
[quote=Rydell;422129]I'm hoping for around 1200 - 1250kgs and around 300 - 350bhp? Also hoping I can get the car to sit low enough on the suspension kits that are available.[/quote]
Sounds good mate i will be watching this thread
Post 422306 by Rydell on 2011-11-06 19:19:55
Order now placed for the cage hoops and material. The guy making them will be sending me a cad drawing of my design for sign off and will then make them up as soon as the material arrives at his workshop.
That will create quite a lot of work I think!
Post 422321 by JT on 2011-11-06 19:28:54
you going to fit the cage yourself??
Post 422618 by Rydell on 2011-11-07 19:08:58
Yes, once the main hoops are bent, everything else is a straight tube which we will measure, cut and profile ourselves before welding them in.
Cant wait to get started.
Post 422621 by JT on 2011-11-07 19:13:07
blimey, good luck with that
I'm sure you are but...
you are aware of the new roll cage regulations???
not sure if this is any use to you?
http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/11/152-190%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf
Post 422693 by Cubes on 2011-11-07 21:18:28
Loving this thread!
Post 422910 by Rydell on 2011-11-08 10:03:33
[quote=johnnytempest;422621]blimey, good luck with that
I'm sure you are but...
you are aware of the new roll cage regulations???
not sure if this is any use to you?
http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/11/152-190%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf[/quote]
We have been referring the the 2011 blue book and have spoken to scutineers at the last round of the CSCC series to make sure we are doing it right.
Post 422911 by Rydell on 2011-11-08 10:04:13
Here is the cad drawing of the front leg of the roll cage. Material should be in stock on Monday so cage bits should be ready Wednesday next week. Can’t wait.
Post 422914 by JT on 2011-11-08 10:09:32
Sounds like you have everything under control
I think the biggest revision was the front leg from the roof to the footwell
Is only allowed1 bend at the bottom of the wind screen.
There was a massive failure of the cage on a car with 2bends!
Look forward to see progress on weds then! Lol
Post 423261 by Rydell on 2011-11-09 09:10:16
[quote=johnnytempest;422914]Sounds like you have everything under control
I think the biggest revision was the front leg from the roof to the footwell
Is only allowed1 bend at the bottom of the wind screen.
There was a massive failure of the cage on a car with 2bends!
Look forward to see progress on weds then! Lol[/quote]
Dead right. My co-builder on this is co-ordinator for the tin tops series at Classic Sports Car Club and said that Peugeot 205's ran a cage with more than 2 bends and they were all pulled up on it at scrutineering. Ours has a bend at the dash and one at the top of the screen.
Post 423476 by Rydell on 2011-11-09 19:02:33
Just purchased this vital bit of kit. The tube notcher is used to profile the end of each roll cage tube so it fits perfectly onto another tube.
Here it is in action. Takes a maximum of 51mm tube (2in) which is lucky, as my cage will be made out of 50mm CDS tube. Will be interesting to see how long the hole saws last after a few cuts. I can feel a bit of trial and error coming on.
Post 423487 by p fandango on 2011-11-09 19:08:38
if found these hole cutters LINK to be good, but i'm not cutting CDS tubing lol. Nice bit of kit tho that notcher
Post 423881 by JT on 2011-11-10 17:14:06
[quote=Rydell;423476]Just purchased this vital bit of kit. The tube notcher is used to profile the end of each roll cage tube so it fits perfectly onto another tube.
Here it is in action. Takes a maximum of 51mm tube (2in) which is lucky, as my cage will be made out of 50mm CDS tube. Will be interesting to see how long the hole saws last after a few cuts. I can feel a bit of trial and error coming on.
[/quote]
proper bit of kit that!:)
at work I have always found Starret cutters to be the best.
http://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/holesaws/
Post 423886 by Rydell on 2011-11-10 17:24:53
Just received the drawings for the main hoop of the cage. 6 days and counting now!
Should receive the tube notcher at the workshop tomorrow as well.
The next job though is to finalise the position of the gear stick and weld in the new mounts etc. Might have a bit of a play with the notcher when making the gear stick mount. More pictures will follow over the weekend as I am at the workshop again on Saturday.
Post 425299 by Rydell on 2011-11-13 09:57:39
At this point, the argon ran out on the MIG welder, so play was halted until Monday morning when BOC open again. I did get some more blanking plates made up so they are ready for then.
As this was all done, I then started to take the front of the car apart, ready for when we drop the engine out. All did some prep work for bracing the strut tops back on to the bulk head. This involved moving some of the wiring loom, ABS pump and brake servo assembly.
On removing the front wings, I found the first bit of rust on the car! Looks like I will be needing a new O/S wing from the breakers.
That said, the rest of the structure was looking solid.
With the front bumper now off the car, which was a job and a half, I did a bit of weight removal in the same way as with the rear. The front beam isn’t nearly as substantial as the rear.
A huge chunk of polystyrene was removed which weighed more than you’d image.
And the lower half of the bumper/spoiler is just a plastic skin that clips onto the upper.
Also spotted another major bodge on the front suspension. The springs have obviously been cut and then, to hold them in place, they have been welded onto the bottom spring platform!
Post 425300 by Rydell on 2011-11-13 09:58:49
Not a major problem, as this lot will be binned in favour of some KW coilovers.
And, no, these aren’t mine. This is a picture of what I am looking at, but will come a lot later in the project.
Next steps are……….
Roll cage hoop and front legs should be ready on Monday, so I just need to get down to Solihull and pick them up. I then anticipate at least a month or so of weekends to get everything into place, plated , notched and cut, before all being seam welded up. I am also going to be adding more strength to the floor with some channels and flitch panels to the seat base. The channels will also for the platform for the fire extinguisher.
There will be a lot of trial and error I am sure, but this will see the interior fabrication finished and it can then be painted. Hopefully over the Christmas period!
Post 425387 by JT on 2011-11-13 17:10:20
so many memories.......lol
keep going mate, long way to go:)
Post 428066 by Tomcat on 2011-11-20 18:30:43
Don't door bars normaly go the other way around?...ie. lower at the front than the back?, that way getting in and out is easier..
Post 428074 by JT on 2011-11-20 19:04:59
here are the regs on cages TC
and if you understand any of it, can you explain it to me??
http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/10/160-195%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf? lol
Post 428132 by Rydell on 2011-11-20 21:24:05
[quote=Tomcat;428066]Don't door bars normaly go the other way around?...ie. lower at the front than the back?, that way getting in and out is easier..[/quote]
The 1996 works car has them higher at the front than the back. Johnny T has the full cross for door bars and Im undecided.
As long as you can get out in 7 seconds, and the door bars dont obscure more than a 3rd of the door aperture, then pretty much anything goes.
Post 428146 by JT on 2011-11-20 21:48:08
I only went for the crossover bars as my cage goes through the bulkhead to the suspension mounts at the front. otherwise mine would have just had the single bar higher at the back,lower at the front.
but as you say....personal choice
I think if you need to get out asap and the door wont open, the cage makes no difference.
looking great mate,keep up the great work:)
Post 428147 by Rydell on 2011-11-20 21:59:55
Going to brace the front struts to the bulkhead, purely because if the front takes a big knock and is connected to the cage, it could twist the cage which would involve loads of work to put right on top of whatever repairs the bodywork might need!
As you say, personal choice.
Post 428149 by JT on 2011-11-20 22:13:53
thats a good idea.
having just had mine put on the jig, the guys said the front chassis legs are so strong on these cars the dont really bend,but in the event of a front impact the whole leg goes inwards.which is quite a major job to replace anyway.it goes all the way under the floor plan.
anyway, whatever you decide, I'm sure will be fine and fingers crossed you never need it!!!
:)
Post 428184 by Jim S70R on 2011-11-20 23:36:18
The cage has come together really nicely, welding looks good as well.
Post 428458 by AndysR on 2011-11-21 23:42:31
Very neat work, you've clearly welded before and your attention to detail is commendable. Looking forward to your future updates
Post 430153 by Rydell on 2011-11-27 17:33:12
Fire extinguisher mounts, doubling as floor strengthening.
Starting to look like a race car now!
Post 430159 by AndysR on 2011-11-27 17:43:09
[quote=Rydell;430153]Fire extinguisher mounts, doubling as floor strengthening.
Starting to look like a race car now![/quote]
Excellent work :)
Post 433668 by Rydell on 2011-12-07 15:50:38
The roll cage is now finished!
Next job is to prep the inside for paint. Gun metal grey is the colour Ive chosen. Should be done just before Xmas.
The next job will be to drop the engine and front suspension out and prep all of that. More pics to follow as soon as I get to the workshop.
Post 433783 by Leeds_finest on 2011-12-07 19:26:14
Awesome project - I myself have a VW Polo that i've been modifying for about 2 yrs now and the hardest part is documenting all the progress :(
Top work :)
Post 436502 by Rydell on 2011-12-14 18:09:45
Been working away this week and been generally busy with the whole “run up to Christmas” thing, so was very pleasantly surprised when these two pictures dropped into the inbox of my phone.
My good friend Stuart has finished the prep of the Volvo’s interior and spent a good 5 hours masking and painting it gun metal grey.
I am hoping to get over to the workshop tomorrow to get some more detailed pictures and see it in the metal.
More to come soon.
Post 436654 by t5steve on 2011-12-14 21:31:28
looking very good...........keep up the high standards you have put in place throughout this build as it will pay huge dividends in the finished car............looking forward to next installment
Post 437966 by Jim S70R on 2011-12-18 20:28:11
That looks awesome, I bet you can't wait to get this out on track once it's complete.
Post 437993 by JT on 2011-12-18 21:18:47
yep, I have to agree, looking great!
I assume your gonna wrap the dash?
(I cant remember the tech name for the finish?? lol)
JT
Post 438052 by t5steve on 2011-12-18 22:32:00
[quote=johnnytempest;437993]yep, I have to agree, looking great!
I assume your gonna wrap the dash?
(I cant remember the tech name for the finish?? lol)
JT[/quote]
i think you mean flock the dash?
looking good ..love the colour....very nice
Post 438624 by JT on 2011-12-20 19:50:33
[quote=t5steve;438052]i think you mean flock the dash?
looking good ..love the colour....very nice[/quote]
yea thats it!! :slap:
that will give it that proper works team look!!:)
Post 440027 by Rydell on 2011-12-25 11:55:44
Just checked through my pictures of the 1996 car doesnt have a flocked dash! Thats £75-£100 saved towards my fire extinguisher then!!
Post 444949 by Rydell on 2012-01-05 17:31:09
Hi Guys.
As dome of you may know, I am currently in the middle of preparing my 854 T5 for circuit racing.
When it comes to turbo charged engines, however, I am a complete novice and am finding it difficult to get to grips with all the acronyms flying around the forum like PCV, RIP, MBC etc etc.
I really need some advice on what I need to get more reliable power out of the T5.
My shopping list at the moment is:
Bigger intercooler with appropriate ducting in aluminium to maintain boost pressure.
Cold air intake.
New/uprated head gasket.
Inspect bottom end and possibly replace main shells and replace main bolts with ARP?
Uprate all bushes with proflex equivalent.
Cat free exhaust system from turbo back.
A manual boost controller, whatever one is and however it works!
Oil cooler.
I think that is everything, but I welcome any and all advice. I'm looking for around 280-300 bhp at the flywheel initially.
Look forward to any help.
Post 445066 by Volvostorm on 2012-01-05 19:55:53
Cool, some nice figures, for not many mods :)
Post 445070 by p fandango on 2012-01-05 20:01:37
[quote=Pault5estate;445066]Cool, some nice figures, for not many mods :)[/quote]
yep, Sam really knows what he's doing lol
Post 445089 by Volvostorm on 2012-01-05 20:29:18
[quote=p fandango;445070]yep, Sam really knows what he's doing lol[/quote]
Does he want to try a car with a lots of mods!? ;)
Post 448852 by Rydell on 2012-01-13 18:52:55
[quote=johnnytempest;444976]Hi mate,
all I did was: A K&N induction kit,3" turbo back exhaust, a 16T turbo and a Turbo Tuner ecu and got these results:
http://www.turbo-tuner.co.uk/
http://www.jt-tuning.se/shop/default.aspx?lng=ENG&cur=EUR
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/induction-kits/car/volvo/850-t5/kn-filters-57i-performance-induction-kit
JT[/quote]
So you haven't rebuilt the bottom end or changed the head gasket or anything then? How many miles does your engine have on it?
Post 448857 by JT on 2012-01-13 19:05:14
[quote=Rydell;448852]So you haven't rebuilt the bottom end or changed the head gasket or anything then? How many miles does your engine have on it?[/quote]
at that point I had not changed a thing.
101k on the clock,completly standard
but.........
but possibly a bad turbo rebuild is the cause of this,not the power I was putting through it??
I'm sure someone will argue that point.
Post 449384 by Rydell on 2012-01-15 09:22:06
So did you replace with uprated rods or standard rods?
Post 449391 by JT on 2012-01-15 09:31:47
I've got forged rods going in.
Not sure of the figures, but I have 300bhp in my head as max on standard rods, but I think boost levels play a part in there somewhere too???
With any luck, someone who knows what they are talking about will post here soon and be a bit more specific! Lol
Post 449398 by claymore on 2012-01-15 09:42:42
I think standard rods can take in excess of 350bhp if the car is mapped properly, but you can bend the rods with around 260bhp with the wrong use of a MBC
Post 449410 by Rydell on 2012-01-15 09:56:59
So, to sumarise, uprate or die! Have to confess, at this stage I am really torn between building for more power (expensive) or getting the car up and running and out on circuit to see what it actually does. Would hate to get out there with all that power only to find the car doesn't go round corners very well or wont pull up quickly enough.
Just added up some engine tuning basics and got to £2500 without new rods, ARP bolts, head gasket etc.
Post 449414 by claymore on 2012-01-15 10:02:51
[quote=Rydell;449410]
Just added up some engine tuning basics and got to £2500 without new rods, ARP bolts, head gasket etc.[/quote]
How on earth did you get to that price? My car stands me about £1500 in total, that includs the price of the car, the brakes and the suspension.
Post 449442 by JT on 2012-01-15 10:53:09
[quote=Rydell;449410]So, to sumarise, uprate or die! Have to confess, at this stage I am really torn between building for more power (expensive) or getting the car up and running and out on circuit to see what it actually does. Would hate to get out there with all that power only to find the car doesn't go round corners very well or wont pull up quickly enough.[/quote]
That was my idea and think it was the best way forward.
get a sensible amount of power,otherwise you could find yourself getting left behind ( as I did in my second race! lol) and just run the car,get used to it and sort out those gremlins that will show up once your up and running.
looking forward to seeing this finished,do you think it might be done intime for trax???
Post 449499 by Rydell on 2012-01-15 12:44:57
When is Trax?
Cant see it being ready this year. Once you start adding up how much all these bits cost, it soon mounts up. Priced up the brake system plumbing yesterday and got to £200 without much trouble. Fire extinguisher is £100, poly windows £150, seat another £400-500! Rich on enthusiasm, poor on budget!
Post 449501 by Rydell on 2012-01-15 12:47:43
[quote=claymore;449414]How on earth did you get to that price? My car stands me about £1500 in total, that includs the price of the car, the brakes and the suspension.[/quote]
Turbo tuner, Samco hoses, CDA cold air filter, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, 18t turbo, exhaust system, and engine overhaul (plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, cambelt, all fluids etc.
Post 449509 by JT on 2012-01-15 12:59:43
check out this thread.
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=40195
be great if you get there,give it a blast round silverstone and plenty of guys around who can help with probs or info
and of course a great pic of them side by side!!:B_thumb:
Post 449533 by Rydell on 2012-01-15 13:43:43
I will be there.........not so sure about the car. My friend and co-builder wants the car fully tested before he will let me put the livery on it! Still not sure on the engine spec, not to mention a whole heap of money to be spent on things like suspension, wheels, brakes etc. Will be doing everything I can though:smile:
Post 449548 by JT on 2012-01-15 14:39:35
i see what he's saying
mine looked like this at the first test:
we even bolted the suspension on at the track!! lol
Post 450094 by Rydell on 2012-01-16 15:31:40
Thats the one!
I think a decision has been reached and the car will be remaining relatively standard as far as the enginew spec goes at the minute. That said, I still need a full exhaust, air filter ecu and new hoses etc.
Will be running in invitation for the first season to ensure that we havent built something that will blitz the rest of the field. Also be good to get experience of the race tracks and general set up of the car.
That said, I can still see around £5k changing hands before it is somewhere near!!
Nobody said racing is cheap.
Post 450879 by JT on 2012-01-17 20:27:20
[quote=Rydell;450094]Thats the one!
I think a decision has been reached and the car will be remaining relatively standard as far as the enginew spec goes at the minute. That said, I still need a full exhaust, air filter ecu and new hoses etc.
Will be running in invitation for the first season to ensure that we havent built something that will blitz the rest of the field. Also be good to get experience of the race tracks and general set up of the car.
That said, I can still see [COLOR="Red"]around £5k changing hands[/COLOR] before it is somewhere near!!
Nobody said racing is cheap.[/quote]
oh yea!!
do you have any performance bits yet? wheels,tyres,suspension etc?
Post 457322 by Rydell on 2012-01-31 18:18:38
Just finishing off the interior now.
Got seat, harness, poly windows, extinguisher all in.
Just got to make up the new door cards and get the windscreen fitted and the interior is about there.
Next on the shopping list are, wheels, exhaust and engine bits.
Post 457421 by JT on 2012-01-31 19:57:03
looking great! :B_thumb:
any idea on your race weight?
Post 457552 by AndysR on 2012-01-31 21:31:12
Still looking fantastic :)
Post 457642 by t5steve on 2012-02-01 00:01:04
good work mate..............keep updates coming.............
Post 458826 by Rydell on 2012-02-03 19:26:20
[quote=johnnytempest;457421]looking great! :B_thumb:
any idea on your race weight?[/quote]
Not at the moment. Hope to get it weighed once its up and running again.
Maybe 1150kgs???
Post 458951 by Jim S70R on 2012-02-03 22:27:43
Looking good....
Post 458960 by JT on 2012-02-03 22:37:50
[quote=Rydell;458826]Not at the moment. Hope to get it weighed once its up and running again.
Maybe 1150kgs???[/quote]
does the series your going into not have a race weight reg?
ie a target weight????
Post 460029 by streaky744 on 2012-02-07 00:07:20
great project and good read this thread.
the v70 that i stripped and raced on short curcuits weighed 930kg and i'm guessing your car won't be much heavier so should fly.
as others had mentioned i thought roll cage now had to have a bar front top of front hoop to the door bar where your brace bar is, as well as your brace bar?also from the rear hoop to the outer roof bar? and from someone who has had a drivers door hit i would have gone for a double drivers door bar as well. but your car your choice or is the group you intend to race in restricted on cage sizes?
i've attached a couple of pics to show type of bars i mean and the door bar set up. sadly know its not cheap any of this but your saftey can't have a price on it when it comes to a roll cage
Post 465403 by JT on 2012-02-21 17:36:59
allo mate,
no updates for a while??
I was just wondering what series you will be running in,as I might need to look at other options..........
Post 465466 by Rydell on 2012-02-21 20:31:02
Tell me about it! Been working the past few Saturdays which all help pay for the build but mean I have no time to work on the car. Just got back off holiday too, so hope to get some more done this weekend.
The series I will be racing in is the Future Classics with the Classic Sports Car Club. The first season will be in the invitation class as the co-ordinator wants to see how the car goes to make sure that we dont just blitz the field! The 850 runs right at the end of the period covered by Future Classics (70s, 80's and early 90's upto 93 I think).
No weight limit as far as I know. The guy that is helping me with the build is also a co-ordinator for CSCC (Tintops series) so I keep very well informed through him. Regs etc no doubt are on CSCC web site, so take a look. Two 850's in the pack would look awsome!
Post 465790 by JT on 2012-02-22 18:38:48
will do
and quite agree 2 on the grid would look great!!!
Post 465876 by JT on 2012-02-22 20:35:53
I'm liking the 40 minute races, but not sure about the pitstops??
you can just imagine me pulling up into a box,getting out,changing the wheels,having a sandwich, then getting back in, putting the harness on and driving off!!
the race would be all over!!! lmao!!
I might be better suited to the special saloons!:)
Post 465888 by woody on 2012-02-22 20:53:58
Brilliant effort, loving the progress!
Post 467640 by Rydell on 2012-02-27 20:16:31
Quick update for tonight. Windscreen is now fitted!
Forgot that I had also recently purchased some V70R front caliper carriers. Got them cleaned up and painted over the weekend too.
Post 469904 by kyboy on 2012-03-04 17:21:01
looking good mate, you know what they say "just add lightness"
Post 470061 by Jim S70R on 2012-03-04 19:46:33
I do like the work your doing and have done to this car, can't wait to see the finished result.
Post 470077 by JT on 2012-03-04 19:58:01
good work!
you are putting my prep to shame! lol
are you sure you really want to put this in harms way when its finished?? lol
Post 470098 by Jim S70R on 2012-03-04 20:16:43
[quote=johnnytempest;470077]good work!
you are putting my prep to shame! lol
are you sure you really want to put this in harms way when its finished?? lol[/quote]
Don't worry JT I still think yours is great too ;)
Post 470115 by JT on 2012-03-04 20:26:15
ahhh thanks mate! lol
did u see the vid?:)
Post 470120 by Jim S70R on 2012-03-04 20:34:44
[quote=johnnytempest;470115]ahhh thanks mate! lol
did u see the vid?:)[/quote]
No what vid??
Post 470125 by JT on 2012-03-04 20:37:18
on my thread mate
soon we will have two cars racing together!! cant wait!:)
Post 470126 by Jim S70R on 2012-03-04 20:38:26
[quote=johnnytempest;470125]on my thread mate
soon we will have two cars racing together!! cant wait!:)[/quote]
I'll have alook :)
Post 479604 by bigrotch on 2012-03-31 14:49:43
looks good mate replied to ya pm my koni fsds would be nice on that ;0)
Post 481571 by Rydell on 2012-04-04 18:24:55
Well, its been an eventful few days to say the least.
I have managed to secure some blue injectors, throttle body and IC pipework to suit and a HLM 304 ECU from a forum member (cheers bigrotch).
I also thought I had sourced a suspension kit through another forum, but that has fallen through!
So, I have now spoken to Kev a BC Racing about their coilover kit for the 850. Very knowledgable chap and happy to talk about all things suspension, unlike others I have tried! Even discussed the possibility of developing a external reservoir kit with them if the factory agrees! What a mine field.
I am just waiting on some advice from another source before finally deciding which way to go with it. Things are starting to get interesting now!
Post 481574 by claymore on 2012-04-04 18:29:35
Always look forward to updates on this car :) , getting a bit closer to completion now.
Post 481746 by JT on 2012-04-04 22:00:00
Must be starting to gain that smile,that goes from ear to ear!! lol
cant wait to see this finished!
Post 482094 by Rydell on 2012-04-05 18:27:53
[quote=johnnytempest;481746]Must be starting to gain that smile,that goes from ear to ear!! lol
cant wait to see this finished![/quote]
Well, I was until I started delving into the merky world of suspension!
I've spoken to everybody from BC Racing to Ohlins! OMG
Post 482115 by JT on 2012-04-05 19:14:45
Well if it makes you feel better, I'm still struggling with my set up 18months in! Lol
Post 482322 by charlesboya on 2012-04-06 10:28:11
Beautiful project, just what Volvo Cars UK are missing, a bit of passion at grass roots level. Well done on such a fantastic effort to make a dream come true. Love the car !
Post 482329 by Rydell on 2012-04-06 11:02:59
[quote=charlesboya;482322]Beautiful project, just what Volvo Cars UK are missing, a bit of passion at grass roots level. Well done on such a fantastic effort to make a dream come true. Love the car ![/quote]
Thank you very much!
Post 489545 by Rydell on 2012-04-21 17:08:15
Not an update I will enjoy writing or posting after all this progress!
Due to pressure of work and family commitments and losing my workshop facilities, I now have to let this project go to a new home.
Serious thanks go to Stuart at RWS for all the time and hard work he has put into this car, not to mention putting up with me dropping in when I can.
I took some time out this week to put the car back together as far as I can. Gave it a quick polish and removed the film from the Lexan windows. Also fitted the last bit of roll cage padding above the drivers head.
Here is the car as it stands today.
Now up for sale and will be kept under wraps until a new owner is found.
Post 489546 by claymore on 2012-04-21 17:11:08
That's not good news :(
Post 489549 by Gunscrossed on 2012-04-21 17:54:05
[quote=Rydell;489545]Not an update I will enjoy writing or posting after all this progress!
Due to pressure of work and family commitments and losing my workshop facilities, I now have to let this project go to a new home.
Serious thanks go to Stuart at RWS for all the time and hard work he has put into this car, not to mention putting up with me dropping in when I can.
I took some time out this week to put the car back together as far as I can. Gave it a quick polish and removed the film from the Lexan windows. Also fitted the last bit of roll cage padding above the drivers head.
Here is the car as it stands today.
Now up for sale and will be kept under wraps until a new owner is found.
[/quote]
How much you looking for?
Post 489683 by Rydell on 2012-04-22 07:04:35
Dont have enough posts to put up a for sale ad! Dont want to upset any moderators.
The car stands me at £4500 at the mo. I already have takers for the seat, harness and steering wheel. Open to any sensible offers.
Post 489703 by JT on 2012-04-22 10:49:49
not good news!
:(
if I had the money.................:(
Post 489705 by JUDGENINJA on 2012-04-22 10:58:59
Get it on race car sales website. You may get a far bit more than from one of us..
JT you buy it and finish it... I'll be your second driver!!
Post 489719 by JT on 2012-04-22 11:31:41
[quote=JUDGENINJA;489705]Get it on race car sales website. You may get a far bit more than from one of us..
JT you buy it and finish it... I'll be your second driver!![/quote]
I would if I could! :B_steerin
Post 489724 by claymore on 2012-04-22 12:09:46
I's a shame the cage is welded in :(
Post 489741 by AndysR on 2012-04-22 13:42:56
That's an update I wasn't expecting :(
Good luck with the sale of the car though..
Post 489800 by martybelfastt5 on 2012-04-22 16:24:40
sorry to hear she is for sale,,,
Post 490159 by Kerry_T-5R on 2012-04-23 13:23:02
Thats a shame, was hoping to see a good update! Good luck with your sale.
Post 491222 by spesh on 2012-04-25 11:40:45
Pm'd
Post 491574 by Rydell on 2012-04-26 10:59:51
[quote=spesh;491222]Pm'd[/quote]
Pm'd back!
Post 492029 by Gunscrossed on 2012-04-27 16:27:47
Keep coming back to this, what would it take to make it road legal again?
Post 492174 by Rydell on 2012-04-27 21:10:15
Spesh has currently got first refusal on the rolling shell. Car should be sold by 9.00am tomorrow. Will just be left with a pile of parts!
Post 492330 by Rydell on 2012-04-28 12:53:00
Rolling shell has gone to its new home in Wales. Cant wait to see it running 500bhp!
Post 492341 by charlesboya on 2012-04-28 14:08:32
Good to know the project is still alive.
As mentioned previously, I have lightened a few panels etc. Here is the boot lid:
Doors
Rear bumper and brackets:
Dash
I’ve even taken the saw and grinder to the steering column:
Bonnet and boot pins installed ready:
I’ve been using copex to tidy up the wiring as I go:
Also re fitted the immobiliser module to the column which was the route of the starting problems I had last week.
Now all the wiring has been tied up and the dash is out of the way, I could start removing seam sealer from the sills where the cage feet will be welded and generally tidy up spot welds that had been drilled and other bits and pieces.
The last of the sound deadening from inside the car being chipped away:
Once it had all been knocked off, I cleaned up the panel with some gun wash
Removing the seam sealer with a strip and clean wheel
In its new position I have had to re-route the cables, which has worked quite well
Also gave the seat mounts a bit of a clean up with the strip and clean wheel
Something I have found is that since cutting the inner skin from the boot lid, there is a lot of flex when you pull the boot lid shut. Once it is locked in place, its fine. We decided that a bit of a tack weld in the corner of the boot would help
One of the last bits to give up its hold on the shell was the rear seat pivot brackets. These are pretty heavy duty and the spot weld cutter wasn’t doing it. Bought out the grinder and they soon gave in
While im waiting for the cage to be fabricated, I will need to tidy up the wiring in the boot.
Talking of the cage, here are some pics of the template I made using 20mm plastic conduit and a bending spring! One of Stuarts customers thought it looked a bit thin for a roll cage!!!!!
Here are some pics of the cage as I hope it will look
Next item to receive attention was the gear lever. As the Volvo has a cable shift, we have been able to move the gear stick back and up for a more comfortable position. This involved plating the tunnel with some 3mm steel to add strength and give a flat platform. I then fabricated 4 posts from 20mm tube and welded captive nuts into the top. And just to finish off, and add some strength fore and aft, I used the tube notcher to make 2 braces between the towers (needed to have a practice).
Next up was to add some strength back into the rear of the floor where the back seat used to be. This plate will also serve as the base for 2 cross braces from the main hoop down to the floor to help absorb any side impacts!
First thing was to flatten the buldge in the floor. This was done by slicing through the hump in a T shape and then flattened using a hammer and dolly.
This is the under side of the floor, where the exhaust center box used to sit.
3mm plate cut and bent to shape with a huge hammer.
And seam welded into place.
The holes left when removing the rear seat squab were also plug welded and then ground flat.
The front of the cage has been bolted to the rear as we cannot get a continuous weld around the tube. The same will be true of the windscreen tube along the top of the screen. All plates, cage feet and joints have to be seam welded.
An additional brace for side impact resistance!
Here is the tube notcher earning its keep. My trusty old black and decker drill provides the power, although it does struggle a bit sometimes.
This is the finished article. One of the diagonal braces for the rear cage. The excess was ground off the side that the cutter didn’t quite catch.
Here is the rear bracing taking shape.
And finally, the door bars taking shape. Not decided which way to go with these yet.
Where possible, the cage tubes have also been welded directly to the shell. There will also be additional gussets fabricated to tie the cage into the shell and to reinforce certain junctions between tubes. (Hoping James RScos has made a tool for this)
Door bar position changed from original design.
Decided on a last little strengthener for the door bar to front leg.
Stuart doing more welding
Strut bracing cut and ready to go.
Steering column brace.
Heater inlet blanked off.
Gear lever mount finished.
Windscreen pillar strengtheners front and back of screen pillar.
This is where the cables for the cut off switch and extinguisher go through the bulk head. I have moved these out of the way as the new windscreen is going in today.
Aluminium foot rest and clutch foot rest now fitted
Just need to get some M8 allen bolts to put the seat in place.
Then turned my attention to the engine bay. Got the inner wings cleaned up a bit and put the ecu and wiring loom back in place.
Then I got all excited and put the headlight panel back on and even offered up a front wing! I have cut out the middle section of the headlight panel, hoping to increase air flow.
Almost looks like a Volvo again. Next steps are to get the bits and pieces for the engine bay, including, intercooler, oil cooler, boost hoses, air filter and then give the engine a service and get it up and running again to see what we have to start with.
Note the state of the bonnet, more later!
Quickly whipped off the front strut so as to gain full access to the front o/s arch.
Here are the befores:
And the after:
Here is the n/s arch with a few more pics of the preparation involved prior to painting:
And the afters:
Now the screen is in, I could finalise the position of the extinguisher and cut off switch pull cables.
Just got to trim the cut off cable to length and then attach it to the switch in the centre console.
Here are the 2 cables for the extinguisher in place. One from the scuttle and one from the center consoile.
Lap timer mounted on Velcro for ease of removal.
Seat now bolted in with 8.8 cap head allen bolts. Harness is in place, so couldn’t resist strapping myself in to see how it felt!
As the end of the day loomed, I thought I would give the car a quick wipe down to remove some of the dust it is hiding under. The bonnet had a number of coffee cup rings on it which wouldn’t budge without a bit of G3 compound. Then gave the bonnet a once over with some G10 and here is the result.
Here is the car as I left it this week. Note the holes in the bumper which are there to allow quick access to the bolts for removal should we have an incident!
Thanks for reading.
Also got my Powerflex bush kit in the post. This includes:
Wishbone bushes, top engine mount and lower front engine mount. I have also been advised to get some solid aluminium mounts made for the anti-roll bar and adjustable drop links to suit. These will come into play when the coilovers go on.
Here is a pic of my first single wiper conversion attempt. The wiper blade could be a couple of inches longer and I will be playing about with the sweep in the next few weeks by making the main armature adjustable in length.
A little pic of the cut-off switches with their corresponding stickers!
Just waiting on my Samco water hose kit now.
I have just made an offer on a HML 304 ECU and some blue injectors and intercooler piping. Waiting to hear back from the guy as we speak!
Will actually get down to some work on the car next weekend. Stay tuned.
Need another length for the main hoop where it passes over my head and something to glue to the cage foot adjacent the pedal box. That could make a mess of my ankle if we get a knock!
Here are the other bits. Didn’t really have time to do anything with these yet.
Just ordered one of these:
Now I have my 17 inch wheels, I can get my larger caliper brackets fitted and the brakes plumbed in from the original master clylinder. Just need to measure how much brake hose I need and find out which ends to order to suit the callipers and master cylinder etc. The rear brake pressure will be controlled in the car with the valve.
Plenty to be getting on with. Hopefully back in the workshop next weekend.