As a above what's the best cutting compound after wet sanding new paint i have seen the 3m range with the 3 bottles and also the "G"range what would you recommend to use with the machine polisher. When I first got my machine polisher it can with auto glym two stage renovate compounds which were great but getting ready for some more so what would you recommend.
Menzerna is what I use. Never wet sanded before but its still the same principle.
I use 3m gear http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CBkQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cleanyourcar.co.uk%2F3m%2Fcat_88.html&ei=SznHUZP3KvCb1AWs0YDwDA&usg=AFQjCNFzlXGzO0JaDpGgwH_NKqU26XOaVw 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish is specifically designed to remove swirl marks and holograms left by machine polishing, this polish results in a blemish free deep gloss appearance. I do like this compond gives a great finish ,you must use the blue pad with it.
[QUOTE=Harvey;619171] 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish is specifically designed to remove swirl marks and holograms left by machine polishing, this polish results in a blemish free deep gloss appearance. [/QUOTE] Got to laugh at that description though.
I normaly use G3 if I've cut paint back but it depends what grade you've cut it back with? if you've used a fairly course grade (1200's) then G3 is the one otherwise go for a finer grade.
[QUOTE=Tomcat;619215]I normaly use G3 if I've cut paint back but it depends what grade you've cut it back with? if you've used a fairly course grade (1200's) then G3 is the one otherwise go for a finer grade.[/QUOTE] You use G3 because your a painter I bet most detailers wouldn't touch the stuff lol. Its really messy stuff .
Menzerna IP is what I used after wet sanding my stone chips - Lake country Cs yellow cutting pad.
[QUOTE=volvokid;619217]You use G3 because your a painter I bet most detailers wouldn't touch the stuff lol. Its really messy stuff .[/QUOTE] Lol, yeah your probably right, it is rather messy.
i usse the 3m system at work, the green fast cut, then yellow to remove swirls and get the reflections back and then blue to remove holograms. to be honest we only use blue on very dark colours. for home use i have meguiars. ultra cut 105 is the strongest i have ever used but dries up very quickly. you need to use the 3m products with the colour coded pads to get the best results. if you want to up the power of the 3m fast cut or 105 ultra cut set up to a wool pad.
Cheers every one as for wet sanding I was thinking around 2000 grit or do you think that wont be harsh enough I will get doing some pricing on all the above products and see which works best i do like the 3m kit which is about £110 for all three bottles and pads which will last a while
Just to add when i first started out i went to polished bliss who sell both menzerna and the 3m range, they recommended menzerna for volvo paint.
megs mirror glaze'
[QUOTE=T5RatherAmusin;619275]megs mirror glaze'[/QUOTE] if that's what it says it is and is just a glaze, it not going to have nearly enough cut in it to remove sanding marks. It will hide them but only very slightly.
always start gentle and only go harsher if needs be. so i would start with 2000's try a small area. if you start with anything harsher you really run the risk of striking through. volvo didn't put enough clear on for people to start wet sanding on there cars. if your first go with 2000's didn't cut enough have another go with 2000's rather than going to say 1500's. all i will say is be careful and take your time, and if you start thinking ohhh ill just give it a little bit more of a rub dont because sod's law will stike lol
[QUOTE=no1tosh;619288]always start gentle and only go harsher if needs be. so i would start with 2000's try a small area. if you start with anything harsher you really run the risk of striking through. volvo didn't put enough clear on for people to start wet sanding on there cars. if your first go with 2000's didn't cut enough have another go with 2000's rather than going to say 1500's. all i will say is be careful and take your time, and if you start thinking ohhh ill just give it a little bit more of a rub dont because sod's law will stike lol[/QUOTE] don't think i would try wet sanding, not without plenty of practice on old panels and advice. I seen it done once and the guy literally did two passes with the sanding block and that was all that was needed, then he polished it up nicely
[QUOTE=volvokid;619270]Just to add when i first started out i went to polished bliss who sell both menzerna and the 3m range, they recommended menzerna for volvo paint.[/QUOTE] its megs cutting range as no1tosh said up ther^^^ strongest hes used - 105
[QUOTE=T5RatherAmusin;619295]its megs cutting range as no1tosh said up ther^^^ strongest hes used - 105[/QUOTE] im just passing on advice from one of the top detailing companies in the uk. There's a reason they can charge two grand to polish a car, because they have been there and tried it all before so know what's best for most cars.
[QUOTE=no1tosh;619288]always start gentle and only go harsher if needs be. so i would start with 2000's try a small area. if you start with anything harsher you really run the risk of striking through. volvo didn't put enough clear on for people to start wet sanding on there cars. if your first go with 2000's didn't cut enough have another go with 2000's rather than going to say 1500's. all i will say is be careful and take your time, and if you start thinking ohhh ill just give it a little bit more of a rub dont because sod's law will stike lol[/QUOTE] Brilliant info cheers it will be on new paint so not original Volvo I did read it was wise to give the clear a extra coat for thickness
[QUOTE=t5 pete;619262]Cheers every one as for wet sanding I was thinking around 2000 grit or do you think that wont be harsh enough I will get doing some pricing on all the above products and see which works best i do like the 3m kit which is about £110 for all three bottles and pads which will last a while[/QUOTE] If your wet sanding with 2000's you'll be ok, it's quite gentle (provided you've got enough paint on the panel to start with). Just use plenty of soapy water and a squeegy, give it a flat, then squeegy the water off and you should see where it's taken all the tops off the orange peel, only sand until it looks even and flat, also watch corners and swage lines, it's very,very easy to break through the paint in these places and that's the last thing you want.
good advise above from tomcat, and in all honesty i wouldn't use meg's 105 with a wool pad unless you know what your doing. Its scary how fast it cuts and levels paint. it will knock out 1000's marks with a couple of passes:ready2go:
If you have plenty of paint on it then wet sand with 2000 grit, lots of soapy water, VERY light pressure, as Tomcat says be very careful around swage lines corners etc etc, If you have painted it with rattle cans then there wont be that much paint on it and cutting through the paint can happen very very fast indeed. Its not hard, but just take your time and don't rush anything. I used 2000 grit then followed with 3000 grit, then used SMALL amounts of G3 on a rotary, lots and lots of water. A lot of the G3's break down from a rough cut to a fine polish now which makes things easier, after G3 then use a less aggressive polish ( I used auto glym super resin polish) then use a finishing polish. If you've not done it before then the tendency is to go too fast, especially with the rotary. I cut through the paint 4 times when I first tried it. The wet sanding is the easy bit, its the rotary that will catch you out.
im considering wet sanding mine rather than repainting. it needs a hell of a lot of touching in, but trying to find time and space at work to do a full hit is a pain up the §§§§.
[QUOTE=no1tosh;619601]im considering wet sanding mine rather than repainting. it needs a hell of a lot of touching in, but trying to find time and space at work to do a full hit is a pain up the §§§§.[/QUOTE] Myne is deff in need for a re spray so no going back, main thing for me with the wet sanding is to get rid of any orange peel left over ive been watching a brilliant thread on voc by John H with his 245 and the finish he has achieved is brilliant.
tbh mine has gone to far aswell but i hate not having shiny, deep paint so its just to get me by until i can get some spare time. im doing a volksrod and just about to start a full resto on a bay window camper in my spare time. if you want some awsome learning matiral go on youtube and type in "meguiars open garage". there are 5 vid's on wet sanding and buffing form 2 of the worlds best detailers