Phase 1 S40 T4...project thread
Posts
Post 632139 by Tom163 on 2013-08-03 11:27:16
Hi all, This is my first Volvo and what a car it is! It is the S40 T4 with the older B4194T engine (forged bottom end IIRC) and 14T turbo with about 200 BHP from factory. This one has had 1 owner from new, full service, belts done at 80k, lightly tuned already, odd minor mark on the body and a bit of rust that will be getting sorted. For the age 15 years old it had been very well looked after and I am lucky in finding it I think.
Spec when I got it-
Koni Adj shocks, Eibach Springs, De-cat, Longlife Exhaust System, OZ Superlegerra 17s, Heico Tuning Grill, Hel Brake Lines, Panel Filter, Boosting 1 Bar on stock map, Tints, Sparco Strut, Boost Gauge in Carbon Pod etc
I am not sure how far I want to take it tuning wise but Youtube is a evil thing ;) Main thing is as its my daily it wont be a stripped out track car as I have done with previous cars I just want this a very well sorted fast road car.
My first update-
I have had the car about a week now and I don't know why but I go over every car I have ever had with a fine comb to make sure I find any problems at all with it. I was pleasantly surprised as I only found a few minor problems...Thermo needs doing and possibly the Coolant Temp Sensor, a very good service for piece of mind and a cold start issue which I am thinking fuel pressure reg, plugs, leaking injectors etc. I also found out common faults with T4s and will be sorting those too as I go.
Up to yet in my spare time I have replace the lower coolant rad hose clip as these are prone to snapping at high pressure (motorway) causing the pipe to come off dumping coolant every ware and then killing the engine in seconds. I have sorted a few other minor things but I am waiting on parts from Volvo at the minute.
I managed to order from the Volvo dealer-
90c Thermostat, gasket and 2 housing bolts
Coolant Temp Sensor
Oil Filter, gasket and Fuel Filter
Sump Gasket
3L of Volvo Coolant
All for £120 inc VAT which I was very impressed with especially from a main dealer. Those should be here Monday.
I also purchased the uprated green coolant tank cap as the black ones are known to not seal properly over time (black rated at 11psi and the green at 15)
Think thats about it for now.
Thanks for reading :)
Post 632140 by T5RatherAmusin on 2013-08-03 11:33:21
looks alright that man :)
Post 632143 by graemewelch on 2013-08-03 11:42:14
nie looking motor
Post 632145 by LiamT4 on 2013-08-03 12:07:40
Very nice, those wheels go well on it.
Post 632160 by Tom163 on 2013-08-03 12:44:13
Cheers lads!
Post 632695 by Tom163 on 2013-08-05 18:21:39
Just a mini update-
Picked my goodies up from Volvo today...
Oil filter/gasket/Sump Plug Gasket
Fuel Filter
Thermostat with Gasket & 2 Housing bolts
Coolant Temp Sensor
3 L of Volvo Coolant
Also picked up a green coolant res cap as I have read problems about the seal on the black ones only being rated to 11psi and Volvo uprated them to green 15psi later on (?)
Just waiting on my new Fuel Pressure Regulator and Oil Filter Housing Tool to come and we can get on with things :D :D
Was thinking of this oil anyone have any opinions? was going to be doing 5k changes.
http://www.thehappymotorist.co.uk/Millers-Oils-XSS-10W40--5223GG-5-Litres-2199.html
Post 632704 by LiamT4 on 2013-08-05 18:42:37
Any good 10-30 semi will do. 5k oil and filter changes will be good for the engine.
Post 632772 by AndysR on 2013-08-05 20:34:08
A good friend of mine has a highly modified T4 and that goes extremely well indeed, you should get yourself a Quaife diff as it will transform the handling ;)
As for the oil query there's loads of opinions on what's good and what's not, the most important thing is the frequency of change and I do mine every 3k maximum ;)
Post 632803 by Tom163 on 2013-08-05 21:21:19
[QUOTE=LiamT4;632704]Any good 10-30 semi will do. 5k oil and filter changes will be good for the engine.[/QUOTE]
Thanks mate I will look into oils around that weight then. :) What do you run in yours?
[QUOTE=AndysR;632772]A good friend of mine has a highly modified T4 and that goes extremely well indeed, you should get yourself a Quaife diff as it will transform the handling ;)
As for the oil query there's loads of opinions on what's good and what's not, the most important thing is the frequency of change and I do mine every 3k maximum ;)[/QUOTE]
I would love a Diff maybe once all the niggles are sorted and mapped a diff should compliment that rather nicely....I am still trying to find a happy medium between useable as a daily and so powerful it makes people hold on for dear life ;)
Post 632821 by smithy on 2013-08-05 21:34:12
Stick a 18/19t with a shortened t5 manifold and downpipe and some larger injectors then the car will fly mate
Post 632857 by Tom163 on 2013-08-05 22:35:57
[QUOTE=smithy;632821]Stick a 18/19t with a shortened t5 manifold and downpipe and some larger injectors then the car will fly mate[/QUOTE]
I am writing all these suggestions down on my "shopping list" :D
Post 632860 by smithy on 2013-08-05 22:53:27
[QUOTE=Tom163;632857]I am writing all these suggestions down on my "shopping list" :D[/QUOTE]
I did it recently on my mates t4 and what a difference it went like a scolded cat mate
Post 632866 by Tom163 on 2013-08-05 23:16:38
How much did it all cost roughly mate?
Post 632867 by smithy on 2013-08-05 23:21:38
[QUOTE=Tom163;632866]How much did it all cost roughly mate?[/QUOTE]
The main cost is the turbo and sorting the downpipe ,and if you can get it custom mapped you are talking 300 bhp
Post 632934 by martybelfastt5 on 2013-08-06 13:44:59
get some evo brakes fisrt lol!!
Post 632958 by Tom163 on 2013-08-06 18:14:34
Got some very bad news...this afternoon the front drivers side Koni Adjustable Strut has collapsed completely :( on closer inspection it looks like it has been subject to 10 years rust!
Now the main thing is it passed an MOT on the 18th of July with not 1 minor...surely they should have spotted that??
Now I am trying my hardest to find a Koni shock for a 98 S40 T4 :(
Post 633009 by LiamT4 on 2013-08-06 18:56:28
[QUOTE=Tom163;632803]Thanks mate I will look into oils around that weight then. :) What do you run in yours?[/QUOTE]
I used castrol in mine (my t4 is long gone now unfortunatly) but i'm sure the millers 10-40 semi will be fine.
Post 633278 by Tom163 on 2013-08-07 17:44:24
I got some Castrol GTX in the end as it was a very good price. I had a look at review and they seemed good to be honest. I used to stay clear away from that oil but that must have been down to being un educated lol.
Post 637158 by LiamT4 on 2013-08-20 19:56:36
Coming along well, good to see a t4 project for a change, instead of all those common t5 builds ;-)
Post 637272 by Tom163 on 2013-08-20 23:39:11
Hahaha thanks mate!
Post 637367 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-08-21 13:17:31
looking good Tom. if the regulator has not cured it, possibly the fuel pump might be on the way out - fairly common for it not to hold back pressure if left overnight.
is it any better or worse depending on tempreture?
Post 637572 by Tom163 on 2013-08-21 22:41:59
[QUOTE=partsforvolvos.com;637367]looking good Tom. if the regulator has not cured it, possibly the fuel pump might be on the way out - fairly common for it not to hold back pressure if left overnight.
is it any better or worse depending on tempreture?[/QUOTE]
Thanks mate! all thanks to your help with parts fast though lol
I hope not :( I don't have enough for that at the minute as got a coolant leak and need a clutch....I have not noticed it different in varying temps...it cranks for about 5 secs then splutters into life if I tap the accel pedel quickly once.
I was going to do the plugs after the cts as they have been in there 3 years.
Cheers
Post 637628 by mike 850 on 2013-08-22 08:27:17
Try priming it a few times before cranking, if this works it may be the check valve as PFV said, this I believe is part of the pump and stops the fuel returning back down the lines.
Post 637675 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-08-22 13:39:37
yes that is correct mike about the valve - and why didnt i think of that trick.
Post 637854 by Tom163 on 2013-08-22 22:53:44
Hi guys,
By priming do you mean pumping the accel pedal a few times before starting? if so that makes no difference unfortunately. It starts perfect when the engine is warm to hot just first start from stone cold.....which is making me think of the ecu not enriching the fuel mixture enough.
Thanks for the help :)
Post 637905 by mike 850 on 2013-08-23 07:56:10
No I meant priming the pump, as in turn the key to the ignition lights(but dont crank) and you should hear the pump whirring away, when it stops turn the ignition off again, do maybe 3-4 cycles of this then try cranking if it fires normally it would appear you check valve is gone
Post 638009 by Tom163 on 2013-08-23 17:28:59
[QUOTE=mike 850;637905]No I meant priming the pump, as in turn the key to the ignition lights(but dont crank) and you should hear the pump whirring away, when it stops turn the ignition off again, do maybe 3-4 cycles of this then try cranking if it fires normally it would appear you check valve is gone[/QUOTE]
Rite! Thanks for that I will give that a go and report back.
Thanks alot
Post 638195 by Tom163 on 2013-08-24 09:18:15
Ok guys so this morning after leaving the car overnight I primed the fuel pump 4 times and it made no difference to the starting...about 5 seconds then with a quick tap of the accel pedal it came to life.
Cheers
Post 638202 by mike 850 on 2013-08-24 10:11:16
If you could get a pressure gauge on the fuel rail just to make sure its holding pressure and you don't have a leaky injector or something. Other than that I think it gets a bit tricky from here as it could be sensors etc, I dont know enough about s40s to help with that, if it were an 850 I could go through the lot with you but its useless here.
Post 658507 by frenchman on 2013-11-06 23:00:13
Nice to see another S40 on here. I've just got one myself. Build thread coming soon ;)
Post 658534 by partsforvolvos.com on 2013-11-07 08:58:08
Hello tom, if you have still got that cold start problem, take the injector rail out of the manifold , turn it around with everything still connected and rest the injectors on a piece of kitchen towel. now leave overnight and re-check in the morning.
if you find damp patches over some or all (like i did) or the injectors then these are weeping fuel into the cylinder whilst it is parked up and possibly causing your cold start issue. - it wont fire until the fuel has gone away a bit like a head gasket leaking water into a cylinder. it runs badly until said water has gone.