Had the car in to the garage today to have the thermostat changed because it's overheating, to be told it'sn got a cracked liner. (Awaits the "I told you so" posts) The plan now is to fit a 2.4 lump, but have a couple of questions. 1. Does the 2.4 engine have VVT on both cams, or will the heads have to be swapped over? 2. Is the turbo oil return in the same place as on the R?
I dont ever laugh at anyones miss fortune, dont to others that you wouldnt like done to yourself, thats how i live anyway. In response to the engines i thought the vvt was just on the exhaust cam tbh well the solenoid anyway, and id had thought the turbo return is in the same spot on both lumps, but im not that well up on the later engines. Hope you get it sorted out mate. By the looks of this > http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=235818&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=12011&modelYear=2007&ukey_category=7072&ukey_driveLine=483&ukey_trimLevel=24667 The vvt is on both cams
vvt on both cams. if you want my number so can i compare both engines. if need any info give me a shout
All the 2.4 t5 engines have the vvt on both cams mate. Can't you get the liner fixed and have it all shimmed? Must be cheaper than a replacement engine, less effort too.
So you didn't escape the pod unscathed :)
[QUOTE=stribo;632953]Had the car in to the garage today to have the thermostat changed because it's overheating, to be told it'sn got a cracked liner. (Awaits the "I told you so" posts) The plan now is to fit a 2.4 lump, but have a couple of questions. 1. Does the 2.4 engine have VVT on both cams, or will the heads have to be swapped over? 2. [COLOR="#FF0000"]Is the turbo oil return in the same place as on the R[/COLOR]?[/QUOTE] The oil return pipe is the same on ALL 5 cylinder blocks. I`ve fitted a K24 to a 2.3 block with no mods to the return pipe :)
Sorry to hear that mate :(
[QUOTE=Jamest5r;632969]So you didn't escape the pod unscathed :)[/QUOTE] Escaped Pod, but possibly not Shakespeare Raceway. ;)
[QUOTE=M-R-P;632967]All the 2.4 t5 engines have the vvt on both cams mate. Can't you get the liner fixed and have it all shimmed? Must be cheaper than a replacement engine, less effort too.[/QUOTE] Apparently liners can't be fixed once split, and shimming now wouldn't be guaranteed to sort the problem.
Just fix the liner mate, it's not difficult, it's worked on mine.
[QUOTE=stribo;632977]Apparently liners can't be fixed once split, and shimming now wouldn't be guaranteed to sort the problem.[/QUOTE] Rubish, whoever told you that don't know what they're talking about, if you need a 2.4 block, I've got one that's been repaired and shimmed by Tim Williams.
[QUOTE=stribo;632977]Apparently liners can't be fixed once split, and shimming now wouldn't be guaranteed to sort the problem.[/QUOTE] They can be. I'd have a word with Tim Williams. He's done a fair few 2.5's that have split their liners now.
[QUOTE=claymore;632978]Just fix the liner mate, it's not difficult, it's worked on mine.[/QUOTE] How is the liner fixed, any idea who could do it around here?
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;632980]They can be. I'd have a word with Tim Williams. He's done a fair few 2.5's that have split their liners now.[/QUOTE] Have you got a contact number for him?
As above mate, it can be done. Gutted for you tho mate, so soon after the remap too. (this is where I'd add a link to my first post on your remap thread but I'm not THAT mean)
do it yourself, just shim it with stainless steel, it will be hard th get the shim in on the damaged liner, and use jbweld to seal it all.
[QUOTE=M-R-P;632983]As above mate, it can be done. Gutted for you tho mate, so soon after the remap too. ([COLOR="#FF0000"]this is where I'd add a link to my first post on your remap thread but I'm not THAT mean[/COLOR])[/QUOTE] I know, I know, maybe I shouldn't have had the rev limiter raised. ;)
[QUOTE=stribo;632981]How is the liner fixed, any idea who could do it around here?[/QUOTE] My understanding is if you stop the split from opening by shimming the block you sort the problem.
[QUOTE=claymore;632985]do it yourself, just shim it with stainless steel, it will be hard th get the shim in on the damaged liner, and use jbweld to seal it all.[/QUOTE] That's a bit beyond my capabilities I'm afraid. I have noticed on another forum that some people say the shim should be the same level as the top of the block, and some say it should be below, any ideas?
Just below
[QUOTE=oblark;632995]Just below
[/QUOTE]
What holds the shim in place? Just the head?
Sorry to hear the bad news..... could it be a result of the recent remap at DNA Tuning or just totally coincidental? But a split liner just a few short weeks after a remap sounds suspicious.
[QUOTE=stephenevans99;633005]Sorry to hear the bad news..... could it be a result of the recent remap at DNA Tuning or just totally coincidental?[/QUOTE] Possibly the result of the remap, but not DNAs fault, just an inherent problem with the 2.5s.
I believe so.....it's like a plague on the ST Owners Club. But those boys tend to go for the aggressive maps..
[QUOTE=stribo;633001]What holds the shim in place? Just the head?[/QUOTE] The shimming is a push fit in the block, so as the engine gets hot it grips the shimming :)
Was there any running signs when this happened
[QUOTE=stribo;633006]Possibly the result of the remap, but not DNAs fault, just an inherent problem with the 2.5s.[/QUOTE] it dosnt just happen on mapped cars. lots of standard ones crack to. id says its being going for quiet acwhile
[QUOTE=volvokid;633015]Was there any running signs when this happened[/QUOTE] It's recently started overheating, but I believe water loss is a typical sign, which we haven't had.
[QUOTE=stribo;632953]Had the car in to the garage today to have the thermostat changed because it's overheating, to be told it'sn got a cracked liner. (Awaits the "I told you so" posts) The plan now is to fit a 2.4 lump, but have a couple of questions. 1. Does the 2.4 engine have VVT on both cams, or will the heads have to be swapped over? 2. Is the turbo oil return in the same place as on the R?[/QUOTE] That sucks mate sorry to hear it :(
Trust me mate, its not that hard. Bad times its got to come apart, time consuming but its possible. Good luck with it, its just the labour that's expensive the job itself is sound really. As Colin said some stainless will do & I'd be tempted to do them all & enjoy the raised rev limit a bit more!
if you did do the job your self the hardest bit will be stting the vvc when the belt is refited, whats the milage on your car
Hmmm, interesting, might do this to my 2.4 engine which is waiting completion. Don't get how shimming would fix a cracked liner though, wouldn't the sheer forces involved still find a way through? And what about the reason why the slit is there in the first place?
Im having mine shimmed I hope next year from tim
I take it they've has a scope down it? All the others I've read about monstered coolant, or at least sipped it.
[QUOTE=volvokid;633033]Im having mine shimmed I hope next year from tim[/QUOTE] Best thing you can do mate. You'll be able to hit the train to Tim's and back as well, East Coast with one switch.
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;633032]Hmmm, interesting, might do this to my 2.4 engine which is waiting completion. Don't get how shimming would fix a cracked liner though, wouldn't the sheer forces involved still find a way through? And what about the reason why the slit is there in the first place?[/QUOTE] When the engine is cold the crack closes rigth up but when the engine is at normal running temp the crack opens up, So shimming the block stops the crack from opening up.
[QUOTE=Dream3r;633035]Best thing you can do mate. You'll be able to hit the train to Tim's and back as well, East Coast with one switch.[/QUOTE] Yeah I know. I think its inevitable that all r engines will fail like this at some point
Some info on the Passionford http://passionford.com/forum/ford-focus-st/445728-focus-st-block-mod-info-inc-secret-block-mod.html Apologies Stribo, if I have steered this thread further off topic (ish) And another on VS http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159452-liner-shimming/
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;633032]Hmmm, interesting, might do this to my 2.4 engine which is waiting completion. Don't get how shimming would fix a cracked liner though, wouldn't the sheer forces involved still find a way through? And what about the reason why the slit is there in the first place?[/QUOTE] Shimming the liners does not fix a crack, but it will stop them splitting in the future. I believe the splitting is caused by the flexing in gap between the liners this small amount of flexing allows the liners to spit over time, and If I am not mistaken others have also called it trumpeting in the past as well, which is a result of to much pressure in the cylinder at the point where everything ignites and again the pressure has to go some where! Shimming your block will help with both of these!
[QUOTE=stribo;632953]Had the car in to the garage today to have the thermostat changed because it's overheating, to be told it'sn got a cracked liner. (Awaits the "I told you so" posts) The plan now is to fit a 2.4 lump, but have a couple of questions. 1. Does the 2.4 engine have VVT on both cams, or will the heads have to be swapped over? 2. Is the turbo oil return in the same place as on the R?[/QUOTE] The days of people fitting the 2.4 due to liners is over! Loads of people on T5D5 have had their 2.5 blocks shimmed for a long time with heavy modification and no problems! I would stick with the 2.5 as there is no replacement for displacement as they say!
Sorry to here the bad news,just how much did you have the red line raised ?. When I read this even more than happy to leave it stock,engine that. Do hope you can get it back on the road soon.
[QUOTE=Harvey;633044]Sorry to here the bad news,just how much did you have the red line raised ?. When I read this even more than happy to leave it stock,engine that. Do hope you can get it back on the road soon.[/QUOTE] i dont think it makes that much difference. its a common fault standard or remaped it can still happen.
[QUOTE=graemewelch;633045]i dont think it makes that much difference. its a common fault standard or remaped it can still happen.[/QUOTE] What I have seen on the web almost all liners have cracked when a remap has been done and driven hard.
[QUOTE=Dream3r;633034]I take it they've has a scope down it? All the others I've read about monstered coolant, or at least sipped it.[/QUOTE] Not that I know of, just changed the thermostat, and as it continued overheating said it was either cracked liner, or head gasket, but head gasket is rare.
[QUOTE=Harvey;633044]Sorry to here the bad news,just how much did you have the red line raised ?. When I read this even more than happy to leave it stock,engine that. Do hope you can get it back on the road soon.[/QUOTE] It's been raised to 6700.
[QUOTE=Harvey;633046]What I have seen on the web almost all liners have cracked when a remap has been done and driven hard.[/QUOTE] remaping will slightly increase the odds on it failing but it dosnt mean it wont happen when its remapped. its a daft mistake by volvo. they tried to make the R better by making it 100cc bigger but instead made it weaker. to behonest im tempted to shim my liners and ive got the 2.4. if i do ill kill two birds with one stone and polish and remove cast marks on the head
When you shim the cracked liner you must use jbweld as well, to help seal the crack, so you might as well use jbleld on all the shims, here is one that Tim repaired with 2 cracked liners:
[QUOTE=stribo;633048]Not that I know of, just changed the thermostat, and as it continued overheating said it was either cracked liner, or head gasket, but head gasket is rare.[/QUOTE] have they done a compression test. for all they know the propeller on the water pump could be loose. i know im obcessed with compression tests but they can get so much info about whats going on
why change a 2.5 turbo with 300 brake for a 2.4 with less power?
[QUOTE=claymore;633051]When you shim the cracked liner you must use jbweld as well, to help seal the crack, so you might as well use jbleld on all the shims, here is one that Tim repaired with 2 cracked liners:
[/QUOTE]
are the liners removed befor jibwelded. are the liners alloy or steel
[QUOTE=Volvo_Mad;633054]why change a 2.5 turbo with 300 brake for a 2.4 with less power?[/QUOTE] The engine makes no difference, near as dammit. A 2.4 T5 is 260bhp, and a standard S60R is generally 280bhp despite the book figures. The difference in power is purely down to software. Apart from the tiny increase in engine size, the hardware is exactly the same.
[QUOTE=graemewelch;633055]are the liners removed befor jibwelded. are the liners alloy or steel[/QUOTE] You just squeeze some jbweld in the slot and then push the shims in
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;633058]The engine makes no difference, near as dammit. A 2.4 T5 is 260bhp, and a standard S60R is generally 280bhp despite the book figures. The difference in power is purely down to software. Apart from the tiny increase in engine size, the hardware is exactly the same.[/QUOTE] ^ This. The 2.4 software is just a seriously detuned R file. Don't write the block off without confirming. The liner 'fix' doesn't work 100% but does work in a lot of cases. If it was me and I had blown liners I'd try it, the man's a magician! BTW, my redline is 7600RPM, and yes I drove it bouncing off the rev limiter at Combe all morning lol.
gutted for you mate, now we both have loads to do before trax!:B_steerin
Sorry to hear about your woes, hope its sorted for TRAX
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;633058]The engine makes no difference, near as dammit. A 2.4 T5 is 260bhp, and a standard S60R is generally 280bhp despite the book figures. The difference in power is purely down to software. Apart from the tiny increase in engine size, the hardware is exactly the same.[/QUOTE] I love it when you talk dirty Chris! And your right the Engine makes no Difference, I have always found a Tim is what makes the difference between an engine going FUBAR and not!! And we have both been down that road, but since using a Tim its not happened! It speaks for its self!
I'll be bending Tim's ear tomorrrow. ;)
[QUOTE=stribo;633048]Not that I know of, just changed the thermostat, and as it continued overheating said it was either cracked liner, or head gasket, but head gasket is rare.[/QUOTE] I dunno, my 2.4 lpt headgasket has gone twice, and my dads needs doing now as well. [QUOTE=claymore;633051]When you shim the cracked liner you must use jbweld as well, to help seal the crack, so you might as well use jbleld on all the shims, here is one that Tim repaired with 2 cracked liners: [/QUOTE] Are those shims flush with the top of the block? Was reading one of the threads with a debate whether or not to have them flush or a couple of mm below.
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;633091][COLOR="#FF0000"]I dunno, my 2.4 lpt headgasket has gone twice, and my dads needs doing now as well.[/COLOR] Are those shims flush with the top of the block? Was reading one of the threads with a debate whether or not to have them flush or a couple of mm below.[/QUOTE] Speaking to my mechanic today, he said even when he'd done head gaskets at the dealer he worked at, they never held, but he hadn't had to do that many as they're not that common.
[QUOTE=stribo;633097]Speaking to my mechanic today, he said even when he'd done head gaskets at the dealer he worked at, they never held, but he hadn't had to do that many as they're not that common.[/QUOTE] Theres must be a reason for the failing head gaskets after being replaced weve never had one fail so some thing must have been a mistake
[QUOTE=t5 pete;633124]Theres must be a reason for the failing head gaskets after being replaced weve never had one fail so some thing must have been a mistake[/QUOTE] Yeah, me and my remapping skills and thrashing the engine LOL My last HG replacement lasted a week, though I think it's something more serious than that, will find out when I rip out the engine
Oh ££££££... Are you going to done by TRAX??
[QUOTE=JUDGENINJA;633136]Oh ££££££... Are you going to done by TRAX??[/QUOTE] Hopefully.
Just read through this.....sorry to hear you bad news Steve, hopefully you will have her back on the road soon with not too much expense. As you know I recently purchased from Halfords a 'professional' socket set, I also own a hacksaw (I think the blades blunt though) and a bit of sandpaper, if I can be of any use to you whatsoever don't hesitate to give me a shout, I'll be only too willing to help, how hard can it be ?
lol Graham....go to bed.
[QUOTE=stribo;633049]It's been raised to 6700.[/QUOTE] ???? P2 T5s have a 7250rpm limiter, is it lower on the R?
[QUOTE=M-R-P;633166]???? P2 T5s have a 7250rpm limiter, is it lower on the R?[/QUOTE] He forgot a zero, he had it raised to 67,000......there's a lot to be said for not going above 3000 rpm :redface:
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;633171]He forgot a zero, he had it raised to 67,000......there's a lot to be said for not going above 3000 rpm :redface:[/QUOTE] sure is graham, it gets you know wear fast
[QUOTE=M-R-P;633166]???? P2 T5s have a 7250rpm limiter, is it lower on the R?[/QUOTE] John who did the remap said as standard it's 6250.
Must be an R thing then. I got nowhere near the limiter on this video (filmed in a private driveway) [video=youtube;LDDh-IbW8Ps]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDDh-IbW8Ps[/video]
[QUOTE=stribo;633186]John who did the remap said as standard it's 6250.[/QUOTE] I've never hit my limiter but its higher than that
Maybe you were just very unlucky.
Spoke to Tim today, what a genuinely nice, and helpful bloke. We'll be taking the R to him to have it shimmed, which will hopefully sort the problem, if not then we'll be going down the 2.4 route. [QUOTE=volvokid;633188]I've never hit my limiter but its higher than that[/QUOTE] Your car's been remapped though hasn't it Martyn? The limiter was probably raised when they did that.
[QUOTE=stribo;633282]Spoke to Tim today, what a genuinely nice, and helpful bloke. We'll be taking the R to him to have it shimmed, which will hopefully sort the problem, if not then we'll be going down the 2.4 route. Your car's been remapped though hasn't it Martyn? The limiter was probably raised when they did that.[/QUOTE] good to hear your taking to one of the best around. least you know itll be sorted on way or another.i just hope he can save your 2.5 lump. if not ill have to take the mick and call your car half a R half T5. hope dosnt hit your pocket to hard and you get it sorted very soon.
[COLOR="#FF0000"][/COLOR][QUOTE=graemewelch;633284]good to hear your taking to one of the best around. least you know itll be sorted on way or another.i just hope he can save your 2.5 lump.[COLOR="#FF0000"] if not ill have to take the mick and call your car half a R half T5.[/COLOR] hope dosnt hit your pocket to hard and you get it sorted very soon.[/QUOTE] Nothing less than I'd expect hop along. ;)
Good news that Tim is sorting you out mate. Once you start using him, there'll be no turning back!
[QUOTE=S70T5Chris;633288]Good news that Tim is sorting you out mate. Once you start using him, there'll be no turning back![/QUOTE] Thanks for letting me have his number mate, I can see why you (and others) rate him so highly now.
[QUOTE=stribo;633289]Thanks for letting me have his number mate, I can see why you (and others) rate him so highly now.[/QUOTE] ive always said he was the best..............:uglyhamme
[QUOTE=T5frankie;633308]ive always said he was the best..............:uglyhamme[/QUOTE] Thought YOU were the best !
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;633320]Thought YOU were the best ![/QUOTE] at breaking engines not fixing them
The MT R limiter is 6500rpm. But, there are two a hard and soft limit, it's NMAX plus 250rpm so I can see why they thought 6250rpm. That makes your limiter 6950 rpm.
hows the 20g research going. i was reading a project thread the other day of one fitted to a s60r. im heading up your way one day next week. going for a look around newton hall. that anywear near you
Going ok, think youll be within 30 miles mate. Welcome for a cuppa if I'm not working.
30 mile south or north, think ill be ready for beer never mind cuppa. wedding venue viewing. sounds like wont be much fun for me
So when is the head coming off to see what gone on,I do hope it's just a head gasket if your are lucky.
[QUOTE=graemewelch;633375]30 mile south or north, think ill be ready for beer never mind cuppa. wedding venue viewing. sounds like wont be much fun for me[/QUOTE] lol, north mate, prob 40 min drive on the A1.
Mate I've just seen this thread! I'm so sorry to hear that. Got my fingers tightly crossed that it can be saved!
Indeed, if it makes you feel better, Tim has been to the ring and back and multiple track days with a block that had been fixed this way by him. That block lasted, I think, until he blew it overboosting to 2.6 bar in his 850.
sorry to hear of your troubles, hopefully it is just the head gasket, but shimming the block whilst the head is off, regardless of whether it has cracked a liner or not will be worth it in the long run, for the longevity of the block and if not just for the peace of mind, good luck with the repairs
how you getting on with getting the R sorted
Quick update, I've been unable to get in contact with Tim to arrange a date to get the car up to him, but have been having my doubts it's the liners, as the car's usedf no water since it was diagnosed. I thought I do some of my own investigative work, so took the car in for a sniff test today, and it's come back clear. :D This leads me to think it's the water pump, and has been all along. When I got the car home it was nearly in the red on the temp guage, the top rad hose was really hot (unsurprisingly), but the bottom hose was stone cold. This would point to either water pump, or a blocked rad. I'm assuming as the problem emerged all of a sudden the water pump's gone.
Interesting... Have you done a compression test at all? It'll be pretty bloody handy if it's just the pump... providing nothing's been cooked in the meantime.
Haven't done a compression test, but the sniff test told me what I kind of knew already, as they drink water when they split liners, and ours hasn't used a drop, also the fact the top rad hose is hot and the bottom one is stone cold points to a cooling problem.
Thermostat? Water pumps normally leak when knacked?
Glad to hear it could be just the pump mate, will you get to try a new one before TRAX ?
[QUOTE=Dream3r;638801]Thermostat? Water pumps normally leak when knacked?[/QUOTE] I think he suspected the thermostat first of all, he's had a new one fitted iirc
[QUOTE=Dream3r;638801]Thermostat? Water pumps normally leak when knacked?[/QUOTE] It's had a new thermostat, after it was fitted the mechanic said it was liners. The top hose gets hot, so the thermostat's opening, but I'm guessing the water isn't getting pumped round it.
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;638802]Glad to hear it could be just the pump mate, will you get to try a new one before TRAX ?[/QUOTE] Oh yes, hopefully ready for Trax.
[QUOTE=stribo;638798]Quick update, I've been unable to get in contact with Tim to arrange a date to get the car up to him, but have been having my doubts it's the liners, as the car's usedf no water since it was diagnosed. I thought I do some of my own investigative work, so took the car in for a sniff test today, and it's come back clear. :D This leads me to think it's the water pump, and has been all along. When I got the car home it was nearly in the red on the temp guage, the top rad hose was really hot (unsurprisingly), but the bottom hose was stone cold. This would point to either water pump, or a blocked rad. I'm assuming as the problem emerged all of a sudden the [COLOR="#FF0000"]water pump's gone[/COLOR].[/QUOTE] Didn`t I say at the last southern meet it was the water pump !!!!!!!!
[QUOTE=oblark;638812]Didn`t I say at the last southern meet it was the water pump !!!!!!!![/QUOTE] You did mate, which is why I got the sniff test done, to rule out the liners.:D
id also do a compression test if was you.
[QUOTE=graemewelch;638823]id also do a compression test if was you.[/QUOTE] To what end?
Just because the sniffer came up negative and there's no loss of water, doesn't necessarily mean there isn't a cracked liner and for the effort involved in a compression test, wouldn't it be worth it to gauge the health of the engine?
Or get a scope down it and look for the tell tale carbon build up at the top of the cylinder... That's how most garages confirm.
It's going into a different Volvo specialist in Basingstoke this afternoon, for some investigative work, and hopefully a new water pump, and 3rd cambelt in 18 months.
[QUOTE=stribo;638830]It's going into a different Volvo specialist in Basingstoke this afternoon, for some investigative work, and hopefully a new water pump, and 3rd cambelt in 18 months.[/QUOTE] Keep us informed mate, I've got my fingers crossed its just the pump.
Heard back from the garage today, engine checks out O.K, but the plastic impeller on the water pump has broken up, so a new water pump is being fitted tomorrow, and the car will be back to full health. :D
[QUOTE=stribo;639466]Heard back from the garage today, engine checks out O.K, but the plastic impeller on the water pump has broken up, so a new water pump is being fitted tomorrow, and the car will be back to full health. :D[/QUOTE] Congrats on the good news mate :)
Like I said earlier mate, I'm really pleased that you've gotten away with a water pump and timing belt.....two cars at TRAX now !
i thought you could get a water pump with a metal blade?
[QUOTE=p fandango;639473]i thought you could get a water pump with a metal blade?[/QUOTE] Id had thought you could
I made a bit of an error with this water pump, an bought a cheap one off eBay, just after we'd bought the car. Lesson learnt the hard way. lol
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;639471]Like I said earlier mate, I'm really pleased that you've gotten away with a water pump and timing belt.....two cars at TRAX now ![/QUOTE] Yep, see you at Cherwell, in just over a week. :D
[QUOTE=merc85;639474]Id had thought you could[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=stribo;639475]I made a bit of an error with this water pump, an bought a cheap one off eBay, just after we'd bought the car. Lesson learnt the hard way. lol[/QUOTE]
this one looks metal, so hopefully it was just the ebay one that was plastic & the Volvo one will be stronger
[QUOTE=stribo;639476]Yep, see you at Cherwell, in just over a week. :D[/QUOTE] That reminds me.....I'd better be leaving soon lol
[QUOTE=stribo;639466]Heard back from the garage today, engine checks out O.K, but the plastic impeller on the water pump has broken up, so a new water pump is being fitted tomorrow, and the car will be back to full health. :D[/QUOTE] Didnt I say the pump impeller could have come off !!!
[QUOTE=oblark;639485]Didnt I say the pump impeller could have come off !!![/QUOTE] Technically it didn't come off, it broke up. ;) But yes it was what you said that made me think about the water pump, and get the sniff test done. Cheers Rob. :B_thumb:
glad its turned out to be a cheap fix for you.
What a relief Steve I'm really pleased for you and I did admire how you handled the whole situation from start to finish, I would of been close to tears! Will be great to see both your cars at TRAX and to catch up again (and share secrets) ;)
[QUOTE=stribo;639487]Technically it didn't come off, it broke up. ;) But yes it was what you said that made me think about the water pump, and get the sniff test done. Cheers Rob. :B_thumb:[/QUOTE] So if the pump broke up, where's the bits gone? Hopefully, they'll all come out when the coolant is flushed and not get stuck in the thermostat or heater matrix.
[QUOTE=M-R-P;639551]So if the pump broke up, where's the bits gone? Hopefully, they'll all come out when the coolant is flushed and not get stuck in the thermostat or heater matrix.[/QUOTE] I haven't seen it yet, so don't know if it broke into big bits or little bits. I'm sure the garage won't leave them floating around the engine.