Post 696181 by S.Herb on 2014-03-19 08:43:00
Some of you may have seen my 'Introduce Yourself' post from the weekend. Well I just wanted to update you guys on my progress with my fault finding.
So this morning bright and early me and my can of carb cleaning go hunting for leaks. Good news is I didn't seem to find any!! Woohoo!! This was only a temporary thing anyway as I really want to look at replacing the vacuum lines anyway, I just wanted to check if there was anything that needed to be addressed sooner.
It was good news that I couldn't find any leaks but it then was a little disappointed because it eliminated the easiest and cheapest reason why I feel like I'm down on boost. So this left two other things that I would think are the next easiest things on the list. One of them being the BCV or the wastegate itself is out of calibration. So going agents James's advice i decided to just take the wastegate line off and test to see if more boost was produced. I so i did this warmed the car up and went for a quick drive around the block to see if there was any difference. Well to say there was a difference would be an understatement!! she felt like a different car. I know that this didn't really rule out weather it is the BCV making the wastegate open to early or the wastegate is out of calibration but what it did do was prove that everything else was working well. So now I need to test the wastegate so i need to get hold of or make something to apply pressure to the actuator and sent the arm, iv heard this can be done with a bike pump with a pressure gauge:s is that right?? and somehow test the BCV, any advice on how to test the BCV would be helpful:)
The other problem I investigate was the sticky idle iv had. i unplugged the ICV and went for a little spin again (after reconnecting the wastegate line) and the problem was gone, the car was fine to drive and sat at idle perfectly. So i pulled the ICV off. This is obviously something that the car has been having trouble with for a while because the top hose was held on with a removable zip tie and the bottom with a jubilee clip. So i sprayed it out with carb cleaner till there was no more dirt coming out and shook it to hear for the rattle can sound. i repeated till i was happy and put it back on. Now i was expected the error light to turn back off but it didn't and the idle is back to its old ways so cleaning it just doesnt seem like an option and I am going to have to get a new ICV by the seems of it.
So any site recommendations for getting parts?? iv used partsforvolvosonline before now.
Let me know if there is anything you think iv missed, and thanks for reading:D
Steve
Post 696192 by claymore on 2014-03-19 09:11:20
I run my T-5R with the icv disconnected, and I use a manual boost controler instead of the bcv as I had both of your problems, car is fine now and will be back on the dyno on the 30th of March
Post 696195 by V70 Graham on 2014-03-19 09:22:16
[QUOTE=S.Herb;696181].....so now I need to test the wastegate so i need to get hold of or make something to apply pressure to the actuator and sent the arm, iv heard this can be done with a bike pump with a pressure gauge:s is that right??
[/QUOTE]
I had exactly the same problem, needed to test the actuator pressure and adjust.
Hopefully M-R-P will see this post and reply as he made a pukka bit of kit which worked a treat, if not drop him a pm and I'm sure he'll point you in the right direction.
Post 696196 by jamesy12345 on 2014-03-19 09:33:58
Glad you have at least narrowed it down a bit
If you removed the line from the actuator, and now the wastegate doesn't open whereas it did before - surely that means the TCV or hoses are at fault?
Jamie from Parts for Volvos Online is a member on here so yes that is a good place to get parts from. Alternatives would be the dealer or second hand e.g. Ebay or post up a wanted advert
Post 696198 by S.Herb on 2014-03-19 09:39:41
i thought that maybe it was starting to open too early... but if thats your thinking then i will go with that as you will know a lot more about it then me:)
Post 696199 by jamesy12345 on 2014-03-19 09:42:16
[QUOTE=S.Herb;696198]i thought that maybe it was starting to open too early... but if thats your thinking then i will go with that as you will know a lot more about it then me:)[/QUOTE]
lol don't listen to me))) I'm just learning also. The TCV is not a service item but they seem to need replacing more frequently than other parts (says he with his original one)
Post 696200 by S.Herb on 2014-03-19 09:42:22
Did you get the light on the dash?? does it cause any other effects with the ICV disconected?? There is a BCV on parts for volvo that is an after market one that seems to be what iv seen everywhere iv look when searching for a way to solve this problem. so im thinking ill just go ahead and get it as its a decent price. i will just disconnect the ICV for now or leave it as it is, i havnt decided. i do what to get it replaced but i will have to wait a week of two as its a little more expensive.
thanks:)
Post 696201 by S.Herb on 2014-03-19 09:44:14
[QUOTE=jamesy12345;696199]lol don't listen to me))) I'm just learning also. The TCV is not a service item but they seem to need replacing more frequently than other parts (says he with his original one)[/QUOTE]
i think i will just get the after market one from parts for volvo. its not too dear and at least i know that it will be 100% as it is designed to work on cars running higher boost pressure.
thanks again mate:)
Post 696202 by S.Herb on 2014-03-19 09:45:00
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;696195]I had exactly the same problem, needed to test the actuator pressure and adjust.
Hopefully M-R-P will see this post and reply as he made a pukka bit of kit which worked a treat, if not drop him a pm and I'm sure he'll point you in the right direction.[/QUOTE]
Thanks very much, ill see if he does if not ill send him a PM later today:)
Post 696203 by M-R-P on 2014-03-19 09:56:23
If you've checked all the hoses to and from the TCV, then the TCV will be a suspect. although I can't see it throwing a warning light unless you actually disconnect the the electrical connection from the TCV.
I have a known working TCV in the toolbox I can send you to play with as buying a new one without knowing for sure what the problem is could be a false economy.
A quick way to know if the actuator is knackered or not would be to get a bike pump with the pointy (usually red) inflatable toy adapter and ram it up the actuator hose. Give it a pump, watch the arm extend and see how long it takes to retract. This will tell you if the diaphragm in the actuator is perished.
After that, to get a rough idea if the spring is any good, try pulling it toward the driver's side of the car, if you can't move it with one hand but can with both, the spring is ok.
Remove the actuator rod from the lever and tighten (shorten) it until you need to pull the rod 2-4mm to get it back on the lever.
After that, if you want to borrow the test rig (it's not laser accurate but it's pretty good) I can post it to you sometime.
Post 696665 by S.Herb on 2014-03-20 23:04:34
[QUOTE=M-R-P;696203]If you've checked all the hoses to and from the TCV, then the TCV will be a suspect. although I can't see it throwing a warning light unless you actually disconnect the the electrical connection from the TCV.
I have a known working TCV in the toolbox I can send you to play with as buying a new one without knowing for sure what the problem is could be a false economy.
A quick way to know if the actuator is knackered or not would be to get a bike pump with the pointy (usually red) inflatable toy adapter and ram it up the actuator hose. Give it a pump, watch the arm extend and see how long it takes to retract. This will tell you if the diaphragm in the actuator is perished.
After that, to get a rough idea if the spring is any good, try pulling it toward the driver's side of the car, if you can't move it with one hand but can with both, the spring is ok.
Remove the actuator rod from the lever and tighten (shorten) it until you need to pull the rod 2-4mm to get it back on the lever.
After that, if you want to borrow the test rig (it's not laser accurate but it's pretty good) I can post it to you sometime.[/QUOTE]
Hia mate, thanks a lot for the reply:) the light came up after unplugging the ICV. Couldn't get my obd2 reader to connect to the car to shut it off but it's gone off now by its self:)
I think I understand the method of testing the actuator so I'll be able to test it as iv got all the bits I'll need I think. Thank you hugely for the offer though!! I'll test that before I fork out for a new tcv. I agree it's bad economy to just buy another one but not hugely worried about spending the money as at least I know it's done:) I want the car perfect:)
I'm so over whelmed how help full everyone has been so far. Thanks all:D