Post 767868 by Ettienne on 2015-04-05 21:15:00
I'm going to have a go at this soon, does anyone know what bolts (sizes) need to be longer and associated washers etc.
I'm guessing it's just slip front bumper off to gain access (usual easy way) then just remove.
What's everyone doing about lower open grill? What's best way to mech cover it
Post 769041 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-18 19:58:04
[QUOTE=Ettienne;767868]I'm going to have a go at this soon, does anyone know what bolts (sizes) need to be longer and associated washers etc.
I'm guessing it's just slip front bumper off to gain access (usual easy way) then just remove.
What's everyone doing about lower open grill? What's best way to mech cover it[/QUOTE]
I bought a black grille that's very similar to what's fitted on an RS6 but I've not fitted it yet cos I can't be asked to remove the bumper....again!!!
Post 769050 by Ettienne on 2015-04-18 20:23:44
That was my thinking trying to fit at the same time lol
Post 769093 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-19 09:34:24
It's not so much I can't be asked but more....how to mount? I'm not pulling the bumper off to stand there and scratch my arse wondering how I'm gonna mount it. So for now it remains in the box.
Post 769140 by T5RatherAmusin on 2015-04-19 13:43:12
jst get some long m5 bolts think i used either 80 or 100mm 1 had to be cut a lil bit. so best go 100 and cut if need be
Post 769147 by Ettienne on 2015-04-19 15:05:34
Cool thanks I'll see what I have
Post 769163 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-19 16:26:55
Just get a length of 6mm threaded bar. Then you can cut to size. You'll need nuts and bolts at either end, makes for easier fitment.
Post 769166 by Ettienne on 2015-04-19 16:35:58
Plenty of stainless penny washers and nylocs, I'll see what I have but fitment is soon
Post 769271 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-20 05:43:21
yes. Make sure you got plenty of large washers....the size of 2p ones!
You'll also need a Dremel.
Post 769287 by Dream3r on 2015-04-20 11:06:57
What's the dremel for? It's been that long since I helped fit mine, just remember washers, bolts etc...
Post 769306 by Ettienne on 2015-04-20 16:34:46
Lee fitted the tim w intercooler, so may have been needed as a different install.
Post 769307 by Ettienne on 2015-04-20 16:47:52
How many bolts is it? I've ordered enough stud for 6 or so
Post 769309 by Dream3r on 2015-04-20 17:02:56
[QUOTE=Ettienne;769306]Lee fitted the tim w intercooler, so may have been needed as a different install.[/QUOTE]
That makes sense.
I can't remember how many bolts of the top of my head sorry.
Post 769374 by T5RatherAmusin on 2015-04-21 00:44:00
theres 4 bolts holding the rad pack together.
only thing i can think of is when the ac goes back the hole in the slam panel may not line up too well for ac...
Post 769382 by Ettienne on 2015-04-21 06:31:04
Thanks will attempt in next week or so and keep an eye out
Post 769385 by Dream3r on 2015-04-21 06:47:01
Mine went in the stock location and lines up.
There must be less room between the rad fan and inlet manifold now though.
Post 769390 by T5RatherAmusin on 2015-04-21 11:47:57
ye but if its to be front mounted. the ac rad will be locate a few inches back...
Post 769468 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-21 22:18:49
The Dremel was needed to cut the slam panel air con access hole. It needs to be made elongated otherwise you won't be able to get to the air con fill port, should you need to re gas.
You'll need 4 long bolts, plenty of large washers and nyloc nuts 6mm.
You'll fit, rear to front, coolant rad, condenser, FMIC; in that order.
You'll also need the Dremel to shorten the bolts the protrude on the steering oil cooler, otherwise you risk damaging the new IC when you mount The steering cooler.
Due to all FMICs being different thicknesses, no two installs are the same, unless they are the same coolers, obviously!
Make sure you use 6mm nuts (not nylocs) to space out the rad pack, otherwise you'll damage the plastic mountings on the coolant rad.
You must ensure the pack does not rub against each other, yet you need to keep the gaps to the absolute minimum, otherwise you'll find it difficult fitting the bumper back on.
Space is very tight.
Refer to my project thread if you want up close pictures of the rad pack and mountings.
Post 769909 by lewjt on 2015-04-24 21:13:59
90% through fitting mine along with changing the Pcv, the amount off little pots with bolts and fixings got to a me a it worried at one point!
I went with the do88 instructions with the addition of taking off the front bumper
I fitted it in the stock location so I didn't have too cut any off the slam panel
Defiantly need two pairs of hands at the point of removal and fitting but it's manageable on your own with a lot of swearing (ask my neighbour )
Thanks again for setting up the gb and those that carted it up north for me
Post 769939 by stribo on 2015-04-24 22:56:48
[QUOTE=lewjt;769909]90% through fitting mine along with changing the Pcv, the amount off little pots with bolts and fixings got to a me a it worried at one point!
I went with the do88 instructions with the addition of taking off the front bumper
I fitted it in the stock location so I didn't have too cut any off the slam panel
Defiantly need two pairs of hands at the point of removal and fitting but it's manageable on your own with a lot of swearing (ask my neighbour )
Thanks again for setting up the gb and those that carted it up north for me[/QUOTE]
What? no how to?
Post 770006 by T5RatherAmusin on 2015-04-25 00:58:58
No need for 2 hands at all.
What might help is unboltin the rack pack bolts that go up into the wing. Then u can push the rad further back so it's real easy to lift out the of from the middle...
Post 770443 by LeeT5 on 2015-04-27 14:12:48
[QUOTE=T5RatherAmusin;770006]No need for 2 hands at all.
What might help is unboltin the rack pack bolts that go up into the wing. Then u can push the rad further back so it's real easy to lift out the of from the middle...[/QUOTE]
Too true! I did mine by myself. Just take your time....No rush!!!
Made easier by using a jack and a block of wood to support the rad pack when removing and fitting.
Less risk of damage too if you remove the bumper and bumper bar. Makes it much easier to line everything up. Although I only had about 2mm each side for maneuver with the TW IC.
Post 773290 by Ettienne on 2015-05-16 16:33:03
Did people clean these out before installation?
Post 773380 by Ettienne on 2015-05-17 08:02:43
Just incase of debris during manufacturing
Post 773497 by LeeT5 on 2015-05-18 09:38:46
I don't think it's necessary as I know each unit is pressure tested before packaging. I'm sure they would blow debris out the units before hand.
Post 773521 by Ettienne on 2015-05-18 16:12:04
[QUOTE=LeeT5;773497]I don't think it's necessary as I know each unit is pressure tested before packaging. I'm sure they would blow debris out the units before hand.[/QUOTE]
Well I'm glad I cleaned mine as we had swarf in mine and we cleaned it through and found more, about half a tea spoon full, enough not to want it going in the engine.
Post 773545 by LeeT5 on 2015-05-18 20:07:51
I suppose that's the perils of buying cheap!
Mine was clean.
Besides, I doubt any award would find its way into the engine after negotiating all the tiny air galleries in the cooler.
Post 776835 by Ettienne on 2015-06-26 09:40:45
Just come home from school run and throttle is not shutting down properly, it's had a new Volvo fitted tb.
Took off at 3,000 rpm like a scalded cat and idled about 2,500 not nice in an auto, very nearly couldn't stop it.
I'll have to take intercooler to throttle pipe off and have a look me thinks, I can always drive the gul until it's sorted a pain in the bum.
I wouldn't have thought it would be sticking / dirty so soon after a new volvo one.
Post 776840 by Ettienne on 2015-06-26 10:42:14
A cable tie had somehow worked it's way into the tb, must have been when intercooler was off.
I wondered why the cruise was floating about the other day, tb must not have been closing properly.
Cheap fix but potentially could have been costly