Post 778722 by MoleT-5R on 2015-07-21 11:26:58
Since the weekends little start line disaster, when the engine appears the have managed to move enough to rip the flexy joint no the exhaust clean off, I was toying with the idea of solid mountings to remove the risk of further troubles on launch with the new found grip and lowered final drive. I don't see any real problems with this as the subframe its all bolted to has rubbers in so some vibration will be damped. Was wondering if any one out there has experience good or bad of this or any better ideas for engine mounting ???
Post 778723 by stribo on 2015-07-21 11:58:26
I wouldn't know about solid mountings, but I'd have thought new OEM one's would be up to the job, your existing ones are probably well past their best.
Post 778724 by MoleT-5R on 2015-07-21 12:11:03
[QUOTE=stribo;778723]I wouldn't know about solid mountings, but I'd have thought new OEM one's would be up to the job, your existing ones are probably well past their best.[/QUOTE]
had 100,000 on them and came from the 2.0l v70 and were in tidy condition, I like the idea of new, but it could happen again, I am thinking of replacing the exhaust flexi joint with a compensator joint to allow for some movement, but I would like the limit any engine movement as this is in turn moving the driveshafts out of alignment (not that I suffered any real torque steer on sunday) which I worry could lead to premature failures. Just find and working around the next weak links
Post 778725 by Jamest5r on 2015-07-21 12:21:05
Mine are brand new and you know my results, :)
Post 778728 by Nealevo on 2015-07-21 13:11:39
new should suffice along with the torque damper, mine hardly moves when on dyno, i dont really launch my car as i like it too much...
Post 778732 by stribo on 2015-07-21 13:23:01
[QUOTE=Nealevo;778728]new should suffice along with the torque damper, mine hardly moves when on dyno, i dont really launch my car as i like it too much...[/QUOTE]
That would explain your times. :P
Post 778734 by MoleT-5R on 2015-07-21 14:30:13
[QUOTE=Nealevo;778728]new should suffice along with the torque damper, mine hardly moves when on dyno, i dont really launch my car as i like it too much...[/QUOTE]
better suspension is probably also required to control the extra traction I now have and the lowered final drive does seem to be helping, just got to drive it more to find how to get the best out of it...:)
Post 778853 by claymore on 2015-07-22 16:50:05
[QUOTE=weagie;778852]Hockey pucks?[/QUOTE]
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Official-Standard-Sized-Vulcanised-Rubber-Ice-Hockey-Puck-Black-/331318572517?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d242035e5
[URL="http://s170.photobucket.com/user/claymore2k/media/T10%20Projects/20140805_114121.jpg.html"]
[/URL]
Post 778854 by MoleT-5R on 2015-07-22 16:51:13
[QUOTE=weagie;778852]Hockey pucks?[/QUOTE]
well I'd imagine there about the right size and shape, bloody hard, will take a good battering and most importantly cheap I would think, compared to off the shelf components
Post 778855 by claymore on 2015-07-22 16:54:26
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;778854]well I'd imagine there about the right size and shape, bloody hard, will take a good battering and most importantly cheap I would think, compared to off the shelf components[/QUOTE]
About a fiver for two :)
Post 778857 by claymore on 2015-07-22 17:00:14
Front mount is standard, as the rear is so solid now, it can't really move, but if it does look like it needs more, then I'll use more pucks.
Post 778859 by Doingitsideways on 2015-07-22 19:36:36
How will you combat body roll, replace the springs for hockey pucks? ;)
Post 778863 by Bones on 2015-07-22 20:23:21
I'm with claymore, I used hockey pucks in a Saxo I shoehorned a 2.1 turbo lump into. Used to get shocking torque steer, axle tramp, snapping driveshafts etc. hockey pucks although they didn't eradicate the issues they made it a lot better.
Also used them on my mk 2 golf to raise the engine and box to stop it scuffing the sump on cats eyes during a lane change on a motorway!
Post 778870 by t5 pete on 2015-07-22 22:04:14
Arnt we taking this a little too far as from my perspective that looks to have broken on the rotted weld also this doesn't seem to be a common problem with people running a fair chunk more power with good engine mounts the top two bulk head ones the gear box and the one next to the crank pully the engine shouldn't be moving thay much and if it does that's why the flexi is there.
Get a good quality stainless down pipe and ide put money on it not failing again with the above in good condition.
Post 778875 by stribo on 2015-07-23 05:53:21
[QUOTE=t5 pete;778870]Arnt we taking this a little too far as from my perspective that looks to have broken on the rotted weld also this doesn't seem to be a common problem with people running a fair chunk more power with good engine mounts the top two bulk head ones the gear box and the one next to the crank pully the engine shouldn't be moving thay much and if it does that's why the flexi is there.
Get a good quality stainless down pipe and ide put money on it not failing again with the above in good condition.[/QUOTE]
Totally agree mate.
Post 778894 by MoleT-5R on 2015-07-23 15:12:21
[QUOTE=t5 pete;778870]Arnt we taking this a little too far as from my perspective that looks to have broken on the rotted weld also this doesn't seem to be a common problem with people running a fair chunk more power with good engine mounts the top two bulk head ones the gear box and the one next to the crank pully the engine shouldn't be moving thay much and if it does that's why the flexi is there.
Get a good quality stainless down pipe and ide put money on it not failing again with the above in good condition.[/QUOTE]
There is no broken rotted weld the joint has failed. The flexi section is crimped by an inner collar that is in turn is welded to the outer pipe, so as to speak and has ripped out of the fitting completely. I had expected a least one of my dodgy welds on top or bottom of the joint to be the culprit, but other than looking a tad ugly seem to be holding up weld. Some seem to be missing original point of why I'm thinking of upgrading the mounting components. I don't want this problem to be able to happen again whilst Drag racing this car and as I'm slowly upgrading her to a weekend/track fun car it seems silly not to make up better components myself than using standard parts, don't get me wrong if the issue had happened on the Gul or the V70R awd this question above would not have been asked and standard volvo components fitted, but Olive is a project car and with that I wish to do things differently and was just asking if anyone else has done this themselves, which the answer is yes and thank you Colin for your answer which was the sort of constructive info I was aiming at.
