Purple 850 T5
Posts
Post 779681 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 15:17:53
Hi guys.
Time to start the project thread.
It starts with me rescuing this car
Intermittent starting issue (still not solved this), generally tatty interior but nice seats and a couple of few issues.
The clutch wasn't returning either, suspected slave dead.
As far as im aware its had Rica remap, and some lovely parma violet pipework put in, along with a dump valve, lowering springs, 16g turbo and a nice exhaust.
I was told it blew its engine out so they replaced it with an R engine, correct me if im wrong but aren't the only differences the map?
Again I was told it was 340hp, 310 at the wheels. Doing my research I knew this wasn't true, but hey ho I thought id try to fix her anyway.
Back at mine with all the stickers removed
They came of nicely so no issue there.
And straight on charge
All the plastics have been badly painted, not sure what ill do with that yet.
Interior is nice, all working bar the heated seats (which I had a look at the other day and found cut wires, so theres that to do.)
Looks ok.
Fixed the clutch. There was nothing but sludge in the reservoir. So fresh oil and a good bleed.
Heard a clicking inside with the ignition on.
Culprit, found out later that its a seatbelt warning so that went back in.
Post 779683 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 15:24:06
Ive noticed that I have 3 wheels and the spare matching, but the drivers front it different. I think its a mix of Perfos and Columbas. Ill get that swapped back as at the moment the spare has a different tire size. Ill be painting the wheels again aswell.
Post 779684 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 15:27:50
So back on the main starting issue. I have a separate thread for it but ill give a summary.
Im getting 1.7v to the Crank sensor. So I changed that, still not cured.
Coil seemed defective next, so we swapped that for a 12v motorbike one, had no differing effect.
Checked the fuel pump, and the relay, no problems there, it primes and cut out when it gets up to pressure.
Main ignition relay has those dodgy wires, but it seems to be clicking on and off with ignition. I took the lid off and confirmed this visually.
So now ive got low fuel and I think ill try some fresh fuel and see if that helps.
Ive also disconnected both terminals on the battery to try to reset the ECU, then im going to put it in the airing cupboard just incase theres moisture in it.
Then if that still doesn't work im stuck.
Thanks
Mark
Post 779685 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 15:32:17
Plans for it when its all gravy are, slam it, after I've sourced some appropriate wheels.
Give it a good cut and polish as there's black overspray on every panel. Then just keep it as a nice sleeper barge.
Also ill be painting the brakes back so they are not seen.
Another thread on here has highlighted some engine bay mods that ill do aswell.
Id also like to see what power it really has on the dyno.
I have an MOT booked this weekend, if I can start it ill see how it gets on.
Post 779689 by kmb on 2015-07-30 15:49:42
Brilliant work in recovering this, look forward to seeing the updates :)
Good luck with the MOT!
Post 779691 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 16:06:13
Thanks kmb. Something tells me Ill need it.
Post 779692 by p fandango on 2015-07-30 16:13:21
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;779683]Ive noticed that I have 3 wheels and the spare matching, but the drivers front it different. I think its a mix of Perfos and Columbas. Ill get that swapped back as at the moment the spare has a different tire size. Ill be painting the wheels again aswell.[/QUOTE]
Only just spotted your thread, but yes drivers front is a perfo while others are columba's. Which means you haven't got 302mm brakes as you'd need perfo's on both fronts
Post 779693 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 16:18:56
Are 302 brakes upgrades or downgrades?
Am I going to need some?
Post 779695 by oblark on 2015-07-30 16:22:15
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;779693]Are 302 brakes upgrades or downgrades?
Am I going to need some?[/QUOTE]
302's are a little bit better than standard brakes.
Post 779696 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 16:22:56
Ok, ill look into that when its all going good. Thanks
Post 779720 by nottsgreent5 on 2015-07-30 20:08:46
Ive always fancied doing a purple "R" rep love the colour
Post 779724 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 20:12:08
Thanks. When its polished its going to be a lovely colour
Post 779725 by martin_r_smith on 2015-07-30 20:17:00
I saw this advertised a while back and chuckled to myself at the bhp claims. But i really hope it turns out well for you, and you can find the missing 100bhp (lol).
Good luck
Post 779726 by The Flying Moose on 2015-07-30 20:17:01
Watching with interest, I had major starting issues recently after some work. Mine too had rough looking main ignition relay wires and relay, I chopped out and re-soldered in new wires and a new relay and it now works perfectly.
For the sake of some wire its worth getting it changed back as far as the loom and crimping some new plugs for the relay.
May not help yours as mine wouldnt start at all however worth a punt.
Post 779734 by Sparkysparks on 2015-07-30 21:07:07
Well it does need sorting so hopefully if thats the problem it'll be all good after a fix.
And about the bhp claim. I even said to the seller. I don't think so. But it'll still be quick
Post 779952 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-01 19:29:42
I think ive narrowed it down to a dodgy ignition amplifier. So ill get one of those on order.
Also got it started and went for an MOT this morning.
That is a fail, but only on emisions. Which im pretty stoked about.
Its pretty high on the COs are pretty wild and the lambda is out. But i think this is partly because it had sat for a year and partly because ive been flooding the crap out of it trying to get this ignition issue sorted.
Also as i couldnt turn it off it had to idle for what seemed like 2 hours. And it was absolutely fine, which is another load off my mind.
But on the way back i thought i better clean the cat out with some right foot. Floored it in second, kicked the clutch down and it never came back up. So had to be towed home.
When i got the car i had to clean the sludge out of the reservoir and had to bleed it, I think this time the master has had enough.
Another highlight, it sounded mental going down the road, handled okish, bit boaty but comfortable (as to be expected). Stopped fine. Boosted fine, but the dump valve wouldnt shut up haha.
So I need another lambda probe, Probably a new cat, fix whatever is wrong with the clutch and ignition amplifier/coil then I can enjoy him.
Mark
Post 780340 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-04 20:51:09
Clutch bled again. I think I had left the slave nipple loose causing the pressure to go.
New lambda probe installed.
Starting issue cured. Hooray!
It was the ignition coil/amplifier. Car bow starts everytime.
So when I can it'll go down for the retest.
Mark
Post 780341 by LiamT4 on 2015-08-04 21:13:14
Nice to see a car being rescued. Good look with it all.
Post 780351 by Dangerous Dave on 2015-08-04 21:56:07
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;780340]Clutch bled again. I think I had left the slave nipple loose causing the pressure to go.
New lambda probe installed.
Starting issue cured. Hooray!
It was the ignition coil/amplifier. Car bow starts everytime.
So when I can it'll go down for the retest.
Mark[/QUOTE]
Good news, now to start the modding :D
Have fun!
Post 780359 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-04 22:15:07
First thing id like to do is get a cone filter on it for some noise and ditch the dump valve. Then swap the front wheel back for a columba so I have a full set on the car.
Post 780497 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-05 19:20:27
He passed. Just about. So time to tax it
Post 782383 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-19 06:51:39
Its still got this starting issue so I tried to start it with easy start. It fired up straight away. So its a fuel delivery issue.
I rigged up a pressure gauge and I got 40 psi on ignition, eventually after about 5 seconds. But that stayed there when I started it, only going up to 45 when I blip the throttle.
Is this typically correct or do I indeed have a pressure issue?
Post 782384 by jamesy12345 on 2015-08-19 07:35:22
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;782383]Its still got this starting issue so I tried to start it with easy start. It fired up straight away. So its a fuel delivery issue.
I rigged up a pressure gauge and I got 40 psi on ignition, eventually after about 5 seconds. But that stayed there when I started it, only going up to 45 when I blip the throttle.
Is this typically correct or do I indeed have a pressure issue?[/QUOTE]
That sounds about right to me fella, 3 bar is OK. I don't know if 5 secs to build up to 40 psi is normal but doesn't sound too bad. If you switch on the ignition and wait say 10 secs does it start OK?
If you are thinking it is fuel delivery, has the filter been changed?
Post 782385 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-19 08:01:49
It doesn't seem to matter how long its been prepping itself for or how long its been on ignition for it still starts the same way,
Ive not checked the filter actually, ill check on that.
Post 783955 by kmb on 2015-08-30 20:31:15
What's that note in the glovebox about... along with the Ann Summers debt, very random :lol:
Post 783956 by emm on 2015-08-30 20:36:57
Looks amazing, it's nice to see another purple 850 as i thought my was the only one. Mines a saloon though.
On the starting issue mine had the same problem but it started out that if i left it running it would just cut out.
Turned out to be a the fuel pump relay. Changed it and never had the problem again.
Post 783985 by nottsgreent5 on 2015-08-31 08:58:10
Just a thought on the starting issue as its had a engine swap is it worth trying another crank sensor as theres 2 types from memory in the sales ad it stated it had a t5r engine which could have had fitted a early type sensor with your cars later type flywheel i can remember merc85 (gav) had a issue when he swapped hhis engine over
Post 783998 by Sparkysparks on 2015-08-31 11:05:52
Cheers guys. I have bypassed the fuel pump relay to eliminate it and the problem still persists.
I have also changed the crank sensor for a brand new one. Still the same. Yesterday I used easy start and it tried to catch. Then eventually started ran for about 5 seconds then cut out.
Post 786429 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-21 19:45:20
In another thread with much help from the forum, it was a fuse not fully home stopping the relay firing up.
It still has a cranking issue but it is useable again.
That being said. I got to prove its usefulness this weekend hauling rubble
Coilovers have been ordered!
Post 786430 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-21 19:48:07
Im also going to have a look at the rear passenger caliper as when i washed it the other day it sizzled. So thats been getting stuck on. Whilst i have thats off im going to get rid of the chav yellow brakes. Just black for me. Brakes shouldnt been seen in my opinion.
Post 786431 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-21 19:53:27
Still on the to do list.
Fix speedo gear.
Plumb in boost gauge (Im intending to tee off the original in the dash, someone tell me if this is a bad idea)
Re-black all the blacks, including the wheels.
Fix remote central locking.
Cut exhaust before cat for a straight through.
Sort PVC as it looks to be leaking.
Remove carbon canister and pipework.
Post 786432 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-21 19:56:14
Also pic dump for those interested of the nasty connector to the ignition relay. This is now fixed and all lovely where its supposed to be under the cowl.
Post 787135 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-29 23:33:16
I have made a start on fixing the speedo. Sure enough a snapped planet gear.
My question I are the kits on ebay the ones I want. Because the picture is not the same.
Before I took the dash apart I also unplugged the carbon canister valve. I assume that's what this is.
This in turn made the car a beast! Must be somewhat defective. That will be entirely removed at some point.
Also I assume that the fragile flexi in the front is the internal boost gauge.
I'm going to replace that. And the icv has a leak on the main inlet to the throttle body. So that will need addressing too.
And I have also had a delay on my coilovers. They were sent out with the wrong address and were subsequently sent back to sender...in Germany. So I'm expecting them in the near future now.
Post 787137 by M-R-P on 2015-09-29 23:46:54
Nice to see more progress.
All the little things add up in the end :)
Post 787149 by kmb on 2015-09-30 09:06:43
Hello Sparky, if that photo is from the right hand side of the engine near battery then yes the fragile joined pipe leads to the boost gauge - I can verify this as my gauge started reading zero on a journey last week, on closer inspection it was the little rubber joining sleeve that was weak and the pipe had blown out of one side. This was replaced and the pipe reconnected, all good.
FYI - My internal boost gauge has a white hard pipe that goes across the front bulk head, rather than a black one.
Tell me more about the location of the charcoal canister (that small black valve shape thing in your photo)? What was the affect when removed, do you know what it does?
Post 787150 by PNuT on 2015-09-30 09:32:55
its an evap valve & they can cause intermittent starting issues....
I just ditch mine completely!
Post 787163 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-30 12:56:56
Fantastic. I hoped I could just remove it as i always have before.
Once unplugged it was obviously not leaking where it shouldnt be and i was hitting some real feeling boost, but i will block off the outlet on the throttle body.
I shall replace that hose aswell. And tighten the ICV, thats also bound to help with starting aswell.
Ordered a new set of gears for the speedo, from Hungary.
Still waiting on coilovers.....
Post 787193 by PNuT on 2015-09-30 18:40:52
I should mention it is best to leave the evap valve connected electric wise & I just remove everything else!
You could have probably got a set of 70 clocks for less than the money it costs to buy the new gears for the speedo! I think my gears cost around 15 quid.... probably cost 0.5p to make!!!
Post 787199 by oblark on 2015-09-30 19:27:34
[QUOTE=kmb;787149]Hello Sparky, if that photo is from the right hand side of the engine near battery then yes the fragile joined pipe leads to the boost gauge - I can verify this as my gauge started reading zero on a journey last week, on closer inspection it was the little rubber joining sleeve that was weak and the pipe had blown out of one side. This was replaced and the pipe reconnected, all good.
FYI - My internal boost gauge has a white hard pipe that goes across the front bulk head, rather than a black one.
Tell me more about the location of the charcoal canister (that small black valve shape thing in your photo)? What was the affect when removed, do you know what it does?[/QUOTE]
You can complete remove the evap valve as it has been removed from the map
[QUOTE=PNuT;787150]its an evap valve & they can cause intermittent starting issues....
I just ditch mine completely![/QUOTE]
Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open.
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;787163]Fantastic. I hoped I could just remove it as i always have before.
Once unplugged it was obviously not leaking where it shouldnt be and i was hitting some real feeling boost, but i will block off the outlet on the throttle body.
I shall replace that hose aswell. And tighten the ICV, thats also bound to help with starting aswell.
Ordered a new set of gears for the speedo, from Hungary.
Still waiting on coilovers.....[/QUOTE]
Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open as it would cause a boost leak.
Post 787204 by PNuT on 2015-09-30 19:43:39
[QUOTE=oblark;787199]
Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open[/QUOTE]
The one i had problems with wasn't that clear cut! it would start from cold perfectly but if you switched it off & tried to restart it straight away it would not start.... leave it for 4-5 minutes & it would start fine!
wasn't much fun going to the petrol station that was for sure!
Post 787250 by Sparkysparks on 2015-09-30 22:58:30
Well once plugged back in I noticed the valve going nuts ducking then blowing. So it def needs bypassing or removing.
Post 787253 by Dangerous Dave on 2015-09-30 23:25:31
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;787250]Well once plugged back in I noticed the valve going nuts ducking then blowing. So it def needs bypassing or removing.[/QUOTE]
The evap valve should have a non return valve in between it and the inlet manifold. This is to stop the evap system pressurising when on boost (as the evap system is meant to vent any fuel fumes into the engine. When I checked my non return valve it was shot, allowing flow both ways. I got a price from Volvo, over £40 each!! and there were two of them in my system (the other one inline going back to the turbo inlet). I just got two 6mm metal fuel check valves off ebay for £4 each and they worked fine.
Maybe worth checking it out.
Looks like this (if yours is fitted with one) by the guy's finger
Post 787263 by PNuT on 2015-10-01 04:52:09
Yes that valve & its price is why I ditched the system as it broke when I tried to remove the pipe work..... so i just blanked it off at the inlet & never looked back!
Post 787265 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-01 07:02:31
I don't have that valve. I'll remove it all anyway.
Post 787484 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-03 22:12:23
Oh yeah. I'm replacing the broken bulbs behind the clocks. I have 3 popped bulbs. Is it worth getting led bulbs?
And what is tracs because there is no bulb behind it. And oil level low had no bulb behind.
Service bulb was gone aswell as parking light. Also missing was the cat. I don't think I should have that though.
Post 787502 by PNuT on 2015-10-04 07:37:53
tracs is traction control, some cars had it & some didn't
you will most likely have a tracs switch on the dashboard if you have it, other places to look if it has ever been fitted is on the brake servo & abs controller
Post 787506 by The Flying Moose on 2015-10-04 09:47:12
Nope not a standard dash/glove box trim. Looks like an aftermarket stick on part.
The 850's basically came with either wood effect trim or plain black/grey.
Post 787513 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-04 12:04:50
Ok, no traction control on this one. Thats good.
I didnt think this dash trim was standard. I can remove that then, I was hoping for more of a wood effect. or maybe carbon, hmm.
Post 787596 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-05 12:42:55
Actually its all coming off, id rather a black dash. My speedo gear arrived today.
I need to find 3 reasonably priced bulbs though before I put it all back in.
Post 787727 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-06 22:03:31
Good news. My sportfahrwerkes arrived.
Ive had them on my peugeot and thought they were reasonably good and tbh these are twice the size and strength.
Yet to fit them. I got tied up tonight, getting this sucker in
Tried it out and i have a working odo, yay.
The bulbs i got didnt go in easy/work/fill me with joy. So seeing as im not driving it at the moment anyway ive bought a set of T5 leds (coincidence on name) that should be here by thursday.
I also found some wires on a dash switch that i can tee into for the power for my boost gauge. Im also going to try a AFR gauge i have aswell, just splicing into the lambda probe.
And after taking out alot of split hoses and boost leaks it really shifts now. Much happier.
Post 787736 by oblark on 2015-10-06 22:21:59
The lambda is narrow band (0-1v) & afraid gauges are wide band (0-5v) so a afr gauge on the standard lambda won't work.
Post 787742 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-06 22:44:01
Ah damn. Scrap that idea then.
Post 788079 by kmb on 2015-10-11 12:28:20
Looks a nice ride height, how's the ride? Did you replace all the top mounts etc?
Post 788080 by p fandango on 2015-10-11 12:31:06
thats the same suspension i've got. The rear wasn't low enough so got some different springs
Post 788083 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-11 13:02:48
Kept all the topmounts, actually i didnt use the spiders on the top of the shocks, they didnt seem necessary, but ive been left with lots of thread at the top.
The ride is nice. Much more like a car with power should ride.
P fandango, which wprings did you use because i was expecting alot more of a drop. I was considering using the original mounts instead of the new ones to give me an inch or so.
Post 788085 by p fandango on 2015-10-11 13:08:32
[QUOTE=Sparkysparks;788083]P fandango, which wprings did you use because i was expecting alot more of a drop. I was considering using the original mounts instead of the new ones to give me an inch or so.[/QUOTE]
the springs were custom ones from JT's race car (no idea on spec), but i still ended up raising the shock mounts to get lower anyway
Post 788097 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-11 18:41:22
Wow, that seems an extreme solution.
Ive just replaced the adjustable spring mounts for the standard ones. And spun a spline on the captive bolt. So the spring is not fully confined, but its not going anywhere. Itll do till i can cut it out and get a through bolt on it.
Sits about an inch lower than before. Ill leave it there for now.
Post 788108 by p fandango on 2015-10-11 20:36:16
i've ditched the rear adjusters as well
Post 788113 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-11 21:15:28
It didn't seem needed as it was on maximum low anyway and it was taking up room.
Post 789330 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-26 09:51:51
My carefully selected DPDT momentary switch arrived
First test in the engine bay..........worked! problem solved at long last.
Procedure is hold switch down, start car (within 2 cranks i might add), release switch, drive off. So happy about that.
Aldo tried my new grille on, donated by MoleT5-R
I got the exhaust off the other day and hated every moment of doing it, and snapped a bolt. Tthe intention was to cut the cat out and rear box leaving a straight through exhaust, but that means changing the cat back for mot time and i really dont want to do that again. So ive put it all back, i will loose the rear box at some point though.
I had a go in the car with no exhaust, it sounded ridiculous. I loved it, but within the 1 minute of driving i had thrown exhaust gasses all over the conduit grommet that i had just fed my new starting mechanism wiring through and melted it, so that was pretty annoying. Also it melted the boost gauge pipe, so ive had to replace that aswell.
So the finished article in the engine bay taps into the loom connector and looks like this.
I need to finish putting the switch in the dash somewhere, it doesnt quite fit into a blank yet, i just need to fit it with a file.
Post 789331 by jamesy12345 on 2015-10-26 10:20:14
Good news mate but what are you switching out (or in)?
Post 789333 by Sparkysparks on 2015-10-26 10:42:14
Its switching the polarity of the crank sensor for a good start. Saves me taking the gearbox out and finding an OBD1 flywheel.
Intermittent starting issue (still not solved this), generally tatty interior but nice seats and a couple of few issues.
The clutch wasn't returning either, suspected slave dead.
As far as im aware its had Rica remap, and some lovely parma violet pipework put in, along with a dump valve, lowering springs, 16g turbo and a nice exhaust.
I was told it blew its engine out so they replaced it with an R engine, correct me if im wrong but aren't the only differences the map?
Again I was told it was 340hp, 310 at the wheels. Doing my research I knew this wasn't true, but hey ho I thought id try to fix her anyway.
Back at mine with all the stickers removed
They came of nicely so no issue there.
And straight on charge
All the plastics have been badly painted, not sure what ill do with that yet.
Interior is nice, all working bar the heated seats (which I had a look at the other day and found cut wires, so theres that to do.)
Looks ok.
Fixed the clutch. There was nothing but sludge in the reservoir. So fresh oil and a good bleed.
Heard a clicking inside with the ignition on.
Culprit, found out later that its a seatbelt warning so that went back in.
