Post 793374 by Mart5in on 2015-12-17 23:21:04
Yeah this post is as exciting as it sounds.
I snapped my half inch drive 4 foot breaker bar this evening trying to remove a front hub nut on my 850. :cry:
Just about hit myself in the face! I was jumping on it, pulling etc and I just couldn't get it to budge. Going to try an even bigger bar on it tomorrow, if not I'm not sure what I'll do if that doesn't work. Maybe hold the impact gun on it for 30 mins or something :rolleyes:
How many supposedly "strong" tools (or tools perceived as indestructible) have you broken unexpectedly?
Post 793379 by FIREBOLT on 2015-12-17 23:51:54
My 3/4" impact gun wouldn't budge the hub nut on my T4 & I have a massive compressor to run it. I have inch drive sockets but they start at 45mm & the gun would probably sheer the nut off. In the end I just heated the nut up with a blow torch, undone so easily I wondered why I gave myself white finger with the air tools.
Post 793380 by Mart5in on 2015-12-18 00:05:21
[QUOTE=FIREBOLT;793379]My 3/4" impact gun wouldn't budge the hub nut on my T4 & I have a massive compressor to run it. I have inch drive sockets but they start at 45mm & the gun would probably sheer the nut off. In the end I just heated the nut up with a blow torch, undone so easily I wondered why I gave myself white finger with the air tools.[/QUOTE]
I'll definitely be bringing my blow torch with me tomorrow then! Cheers haahaha
Post 793383 by FIREBOLT on 2015-12-18 00:17:09
Don't go too mad with the blow torch though as you don't want to cook the wheel bearing. I left the disc in place to help dissipate the heat. Tbh when I removed the cv joint I checked the bearing & it was stone cold, the heat hadn't even travelled though the hub. I just remembered I didn't heat it to start with for fear of knackering the bearing but in the end the nut had to come off.
Post 793388 by claymore on 2015-12-18 07:48:06
I usually use a good size breaker bar and put a hydraulic jack under the end of the bar and pump, the gentle pressure seem to crack the nut every time.
Post 793392 by MoleT-5R on 2015-12-18 08:24:39
3/4" breaker bar and a bit of scaffold tube shifts mine normally, I wouldn't use 1/2" ones we've broken too many of them in the past at work trying to undo things.
Post 793394 by petrolh34d on 2015-12-18 10:12:00
Twas the opposite for me.
Lost the key for the locking nuts on my old A6 estate. I unsuccessfully spent ages trying various ways to loosen the locking bolt at my mates house with only rudimentary tools available. Ended up having to leave in a rush.
After a period of time, the rear of the car felt... "odd". My mates who were in the car at the time asked what would be the chances of the wheel actually coming off, and I said "basically no chance".
At the same time I'm thinking to myself "Did I remember to more than hand tighten the rest of the bolts when I was leaving the house in a rush?... Ah, I must've done, only an eejit wouldn't, and anyway, that feckin' locking nut's ain't going anywhere."
I'd no sooner finished that mental note than we experience a loud BANGING, SCRAPING, silence and then raucous laughter, as the rear passenger wheel shot up the road, and into the hedge in front of us!
Luckily I was driving slowly, due to the way that the car was feeling odd. At least the wheel nut was out though.
Post 793404 by Mart5in on 2015-12-18 18:13:38
[QUOTE=FIREBOLT;793383]Don't go too mad with the blow torch though as you don't want to cook the wheel bearing. I left the disc in place to help dissipate the heat. Tbh when I removed the cv joint I checked the bearing & it was stone cold, the heat hadn't even travelled though the hub. I just remembered I didn't heat it to start with for fear of knackering the bearing but in the end the nut had to come off.[/QUOTE]
The bearing is buggered anyway, I need the nut off to change it :p
[QUOTE=claymore;793388]I usually use a good size breaker bar and put a hydraulic jack under the end of the bar and pump, the gentle pressure seem to crack the nut every time.[/QUOTE]
Yeah... I had the front wheel bouncing off the ground trying to undo it. pulling it up sharply and letting it drop. :bounce:
going to a friends, he as a 1" drive with a 6 point 36mm socket. And I'm going to heat it.
I'll post up how I get on later! hehehe
Post 793405 by Harvey on 2015-12-18 18:32:20
Was it made by snap-off or snap-on must say have broken a number over the years very easy with a bit of pipe..
Post 793418 by MoleT-5R on 2015-12-18 22:12:03
[QUOTE=Harvey;793405]Was it made by snap-off or snap-on must say have broken a number over the years very easy with a bit of pipe..[/QUOTE]
found that the out of the 1/2" breakers the Draper ones seem to last longer than some of the more expensive ones...:)
Post 793420 by Dangerous Dave on 2015-12-18 22:21:44
I use a halfords 1/2" breaker bar and a 6 foot piece of scaffold. Its a tight biatch!
Post 793421 by Harvey on 2015-12-18 22:22:27
Couldn't agree more that's what's in the van .Draper ones good value
Post 793423 by MoleT-5R on 2015-12-18 22:49:39
[QUOTE=Harvey;793421]Couldn't agree more that's what's in the van .Draper ones good value[/QUOTE]
but the beta ones are replaced when they break, I honestly don't believe this was under warranty though, I think its just are stores guy just getting a new one ordered in and taking his time so we think it was a warranty job.....:(
Post 793427 by JUDGENINJA on 2015-12-18 23:49:53
I had to buy a 1" breaker for my T4 hub nut after it ate my 1/2" 3ft bar and it ruined a wheel stud when levering against a torque multiplier
Post 793430 by Mart5in on 2015-12-19 01:42:14
Got the nut loose!
3/4" drive bar was used, a 4 foot one. Still couldn't loosen it.
Added 12 foot scaffold pipe to the end of it. after that no problem :)
got the bearing changed but man, what a bugger of a job...
Post 793473 by Doingitsideways on 2015-12-19 20:58:00
Good lad!
I couldn't believe how tight the hub nuts are.
My trusty 3' 1/2" breaker bar found its demise when trying to undo a mate's hub. (why is it always on a mate's car, ffs?!)
That bar had never been beaten by anything before, even the crank pulley on my old d24 960 - 380nm + loctite + rust and it still shifted it!
Replaced with a Halfords Advanced 2 foot 1/2" when on offer. Lifetime guarantee on the Advanced tools pays for itself after a while. ;)
Post 793480 by MoleT-5R on 2015-12-19 22:31:15
[QUOTE=Doingitsideways;793473]Good lad!
I couldn't believe how tight the hub nuts are.
My trusty 3' 1/2" breaker bar found its demise when trying to undo a mate's hub. (why is it always on a mate's car, ffs?!)
That bar had never been beaten by anything before, even the crank pulley on my old d24 960 - 380nm + loctite + rust and it still shifted it!
Replaced with a Halfords Advanced 2 foot 1/2" when on offer. Lifetime guarantee on the Advanced tools pays for itself after a while. ;)[/QUOTE]
but if asked when it fails and you're claiming under the lifetime warranty, no tube or strong men were used in the demise of said tool.....lol
Post 793482 by Doingitsideways on 2015-12-19 23:35:51
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;793480]but if asked when it fails and you're claiming under the lifetime warranty, no tube or strong men were used in the demise of said tool.....lol[/QUOTE]
Noooooooooo! ;)