Ive recently started to get over revs when i accelerate hard. So, i suspect the clutch is slipping, (i still have good bite i think) or the traction control is bonkers. I don't detect any wheel spin, (cant hear it). Any ideas guys.
Find a long steep hill and floor it in 4th. You'll know if the clutch is slipping at about 70+ mph. If you're nice to it, you should get another few k out of it but prepare for some open-wallet surgery in the long run. A clutch change isn't cheap on these.
[QUOTE=spacca;798327]I've recently started to get over revs when i accelerate hard. So, i suspect the clutch is slipping, (i still have good bite i think) or the traction control is bonkers. I don't detect any wheel spin, (cant hear it). Any ideas guys.[/QUOTE] You already said it mate! That's how I noticed mine was on it's way out. If I drove it normally, the clutch was fine but when I accelerated hard the revs would jitter about and go higher than normal....indicating clutch slip. Start making plans NOW to get it replaced. And no more hard acceleration until it's fixed ;) I would Seriously consider a single mass flywheel option which will be slightly cheaper that stock. When my clutch next lets go, I will be fitting a single mass AP clutch.
When I did mine, I got lucky and found a LUK dmf fir 375 quid, while the single mass was around 450. Depending on which type of gearbox you have - 20 tooth or 23 tooth (yours "should" be 20) the clutch kit itself will be around 100-200 quid, again, LUK, slave cylinder will be 70-100 quid (LUK again). It's best to replace rear main seal and driveshaft seals, along with flywheel bolts (about 65 quid from Volvo) Fitting will be around 400. I gathered all the bits over a few months to minimise the financial impact :(
I had the single mass fly wheel and AP clutch on my R, very happy with it, and if you consider how much some will charge you for a genuine Volvo clutch and flywheel I'd take the uprated part. Doesn't feel any different to me, especially when I had a good 6 months of occasional slip in 1st and 2nd if pushed hard
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30406[/ATTACH]Had a run on them recently, will have stock in around 4 weeks..... http://kalmar-union.com/parts/volvo-s60_s80_xc70_v70_-transmission/
[QUOTE=M-R-P;798352]When I did mine, I got lucky and found a LUK dmf fir 375 quid, while the single mass was around 450. Depending on which type of gearbox you have - 20 tooth or 23 tooth (yours "should" be 20) the clutch kit itself will be around 100-200 quid, again, LUK, slave cylinder will be 70-100 quid (LUK again). It's best to replace rear main seal and driveshaft seals, along with flywheel bolts (about 65 quid from Volvo) Fitting will be around 400. I gathered all the bits over a few months to minimise the financial impact :([/QUOTE] Thanks for info mate, is there a way to see if I'm 20 or 23 tooth before I start ordering.
[QUOTE=spacca;798417]Thanks for info mate, is there a way to see if I'm 20 or 23 tooth before I start ordering.[/QUOTE] If you give a Volvo Dealer your reg they can tell you the PN for your clutch.
It'll also be worth buying genuine Volvo transmission fluid to give to whoever does the work. I think the guys that did mine used the wrong stuff.
Thanks everybody for you advice and tips. After a long think i will probably get it through its MOT next month (handbrake failure) and then break it for spares on here. It only cost me £540 3 years ago and has done me well. Bestest and fastest car Ive had. And for those wondering, i ride my motorbike mostly to work, the cars for wet weather.
Assuming it's a P2 T5...? Shame.
[QUOTE=LeeT5;798445]Assuming it's a P2 T5...? Shame.[/QUOTE] Yeah, V70, matte grey wrap.
Car is now sold. Hopefully the buyer tips up tomorrow. If not i will let you all know and break it. looking at a S80 T6 at the mo so intend to stay loyal. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272189264763?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And yes im aware of the MOT advisories.