Owner views on Phase 2 V70R
Posts
Post 805316 by britten_mark on 2016-09-14 14:35:35
I'm thinking about getting another P2 V70R. I had a wonderful 3 year old Sonic Blue example many years back, it was one of the few cars I ever made money on when selling!
I sold it for many reasons and went back to a Classic V70, but there are things about it I miss terribly and I don't think Volvo have made anything really *special* since.
I therefore wondered if several more years of enthusiast ownership had produced any accumulated wisdom? Are there any "what to look for" stickies anywhere?
Things that I didn't like:
1. Massive thirst (Not such a problem any more as overall mileage has dropped)
2. The turning circle of a supertanker
3. 4C suspension and possible costs
4. Too much dealer only servicing (flash coding of parts etc)
5. Worries about cylinder cracks
Things I miss:
1. Intercontinental speed and comfort
2. Those seats....
3. The feeling of being in something superior and special.
The car is an ex-Japan import from a dealer in Tamworth BTW
Post 805318 by Harvey on 2016-09-14 15:47:52
Good luck on your hunt ..
You need to see lots of paperwork.
Post 805320 by britten_mark on 2016-09-14 16:34:33
Oh dear, isn't that the thing that Jap imports have none of....not that it would mean anything to me even if it did!
Post 805332 by htomi on 2016-09-14 20:43:37
I don't know the UK regulations in terms of Insurance, but here in Ireland its usually pain to deal with the Insurance monkeys when it comes to a Jap import car.
I would suggest to get on a hunt for a good and well maintained UK car. As it was mentioned within this forum, 2xx are still on the road....
Post 805333 by Ettienne on 2016-09-14 21:01:47
I was just offer (thinking about) a last of the last sonic blue 07 plate manual 80k miles and 2 owners, fully loaded with attacama.
Still thinking about it hmmm
Post 805337 by DAN@ADRIAN FLUX on 2016-09-14 22:34:01
Hi,
If you need any help with insurance at all for a Japanese imported vehicle then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan.
Post 805346 by Redbrick on 2016-09-15 00:31:43
I was looking briefly a few years ago. Then I found my silver 855 T5 and the inline 5 turbo thirst was quenched (and some).
V70R is a Volvo estate with the running costs of a super car was how it was described to me.
P2's are all getting leggy now. The road tax on the last of the line is bonkers. Shocks AND SPRINGS need changing every couple of years, fine while Monroe are releasing stock but when Volvo buy them all up they are stupid money.
Cracked blocks as you've said. If you find a good one without a split liner then a block shim is a must. Listen for a slight stumble at idle and coolant usage.
If you find a good one with low mileage and sonic or that lovely titanium silver, manual and attacama then you are a very lucky man.
Post 805351 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-15 09:10:36
[QUOTE=Ettienne;805333]I was just offer (thinking about) a last of the last sonic blue 07 plate manual 80k miles and 2 owners, fully loaded with attacama.
Still thinking about it hmmm[/QUOTE]
Atacama has one T :wink:........and are you still, seriously thinking about it?? You'll never cross paths with one, ever again if you don't buy it!
[QUOTE=Redbrick;805346]I was looking briefly a few years ago. Then I found my silver 855 T5 and the inline 5 turbo thirst was quenched (and some).
V70R is a Volvo estate with the running costs of a super car was how it was described to me.
P2's are all getting leggy now. The road tax on the last of the line is bonkers. Shocks AND SPRINGS need changing every couple of years, fine while Monroe are releasing stock but when Volvo buy them all up they are stupid money.
Cracked blocks as you've said. If you find a good one without a split liner then a block shim is a must. Listen for a slight stumble at idle and coolant usage.
If you find a good one with low mileage and sonic or that lovely titanium silver, manual and attacama then you are a very lucky man.[/QUOTE]
That's not true and you know it! Either that or you've been misinformed. The first set of shocks on my car did 110k (granted they should have been changed sooner - but I didn't own it then). The second set are doing well on 40k.
Springs are not expensive either.
Post 805356 by Tim Williams on 2016-09-15 12:16:37
After about 40k of brisk use new R springs tend to sag reducing the ride height by about 15mm. If old springs are retained with new shocks the shocks last considerably less time.
I think it's about £350 for 4 springs and about £1400 for 4 shocks with front insulators and bearings. That's over double the price of a set of BCs that come with adjustable front top mounts for a FWD P2.
I love the cars but if you get a neglected one (like most) they cost a fortune to fix all issues. I had one in last week that had had over 12k spent on it in the last two years at a Main Dealer. The car was standard and didn't have any major components like the engine or gearbox changed. It arrived with me needing £1800 of vital work so it would be driven safely, it wouldn't of passed an MOT as it was.
Post 805359 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-15 12:57:56
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;805356]After about 40k of brisk use new R springs tend to sag reducing the ride height by about 15mm. If old springs are retained with new shocks the shocks last considerably less time.
I think it's about £350 for 4 springs and about £1400 for 4 shocks with front insulators and bearings. That's over double the price of a set of BCs that come with adjustable front top mounts for a FWD P2.
I love the cars but if you get a neglected one (like most) they cost a fortune to fix all issues. I had one in last week that had had over 12k spent on it in the last two years at a Main Dealer. The car was standard and didn't have any major components like the engine or gearbox changed. It arrived with me needing £1800 of vital work so it would be driven safely, it wouldn't of passed an MOT as it was.[/QUOTE]
Which is precisely why I replaced my springs with new oe ones when I removed my Eibachs.
The new OEM shocks had only done about 12k by this stage.
I can't remember the cost of the springs but I don't recall them being anything like £350 and I can't find the invoice. £60 per corner with my discount springs to mind :smirk:
Post 805368 by stricky1967 on 2016-09-15 14:20:00
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805359]I don't recall them being anything like £350 and I can't find the invoice. £60 per corner with my discount springs to mind :smirk:[/QUOTE]
Just had a price for some-
V30639016 £118.20 inc VAT Each Fronts
V30645725 £91.20 inc VAT Each rear
Post 805370 by Ettienne on 2016-09-15 15:13:49
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805351]Atacama has one T :wink:........and are you still, seriously thinking about it?? You'll never cross paths with one, ever again if you don't buy it!
Looking at buying another Volvo but I've already got a fully loaded sonic minus attacama put me off plus the s60r manual which has only covered 70k, again a well spec'd car. If I don't go for it I have a friend who is after one.
Post 805374 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-15 16:40:05
[QUOTE=stricky1967;805368]Just had a price for some-
V30639016 £118.20 inc VAT Each Fronts
V30645725 £91.20 inc VAT Each rear[/QUOTE]
Wow!! They have gone up in price.
Post 805390 by Shinsplintz 101 on 2016-09-15 19:25:34
With 4c your looking at about £400-500 a corner supplied & fitted for a fully rebuilt suspension from abn independent using Monroe shocks but Volvo springs. It'll be more if you have to buy your shocks from Volvo. I'm now having to do mine (2005 V70 t5 w/4c) after the previous owner had the front shocks only done - no new springs (one of the very few things he didn't do to be fair! Good man is Paul :) ) So pricing up the rest as an example:
Front
Springs (pair) £220
Bump stops (pair) £20
Gators (pair) £20
Top rubber mount (pair) £90
Top mount (pair) £110
Sundries £15?
Total parts - £475 from RUFE, all OE Inc del.
Ontop of that you'd need to be allowing for a new strut (£400 the pair from Monroe?) And fitting. So allow 4 hrs at £50 hr, £200.
So front 4cs on a t5, which should be similar costs to an r is going to see your wallet lightened by just shy of £1100.
The backs should be a bit cheaper, say £800 all in.
So full suspension refresh on an R or T5 w/4C and your not getting much change out of 2k.
My advise would be to buy one that's had the work done or haggle hard to allow you to do it.
Cheers, Morgan
Post 805405 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-15 22:04:56
[QUOTE=Shinsplintz 101;805390]With 4c your looking at about £400-500 a corner supplied & fitted for a fully rebuilt suspension from abn independent using Monroe shocks but Volvo springs. It'll be more if you have to buy your shocks from Volvo. I'm now having to do mine (2005 V70 t5 w/4c) after the previous owner had the front shocks only done - no new springs (one of the very few things he didn't do to be fair! Good man is Paul :) ) So pricing up the rest as an example:
Front
[B]Springs (pair) £220
Bump stops (pair) £20
Gators (pair) £20
Top rubber mount (pair) £90
Top mount (pair) £110
Sundries £15?[/B]
Total parts - £475 from RUFE, all OE Inc del.
Ontop of that you'd need to be allowing for a new strut (£400 the pair from Monroe?) And fitting. So allow 4 hrs at £50 hr, £200.
So front 4cs on a t5, which should be similar costs to an r is going to see your wallet lightened by just shy of £1100.
The backs should be a bit cheaper, say £800 all in.
So full suspension refresh on an R or T5 w/4C and your not getting much change out of 2k.
My advise would be to buy one that's had the work done or haggle hard to allow you to do it.
Cheers, Morgan[/QUOTE]
+ £60 for a proper full wheel alignment (which you will need to do after replacing your front suspension).
Post 805430 by britten_mark on 2016-09-16 10:03:05
Thanks everyone. See this is the sort of thing I have missed whilst away - liner shimming? Must dig around some posts about that.
All this advice is reminding me what a money pit they can be, but....if you are a Volvo man and want to update slightly there is not much else for all wheel drive performance estates. Volvo certainly don't make anything that interests me any more, and I don't want to become another ££££££££ In An Audi.
When I had mine I was told I couldn't even fit a sub to the stereo without delaer coding. That lack of DIY or specialist servicing capability put me right off, have things changed?
Post 805431 by Ettienne on 2016-09-16 10:12:40
[QUOTE=britten_mark;805430]Thanks everyone. See this is the sort of thing I have missed whilst away - liner shimming? Must dig around some posts about that.
All this advice is reminding me what a money pit they can be, but....if you are a Volvo man and want to update slightly there is not much else for all wheel drive performance estates. Volvo certainly don't make anything that interests me any more, and I don't want to become another ££££££££ In An Audi.
When I had mine I was told I couldn't even fit a sub to the stereo without delaer coding. That lack of DIY or specialist servicing capability put me right off, have things changed?[/QUOTE]
Shimming is easy and not terrible money same cost as head gasket and stops liners from splitting. I've put a sub in mine and it's a straight forward fit if the cable is there already. A lot of the issues are easily sorted know and costs are much lower with specialists such as Tim or Shem, both of which are better than main dealers for knowledge. I've managed to train get a lot of work done I don't want to at my local Indy, they were used to working on t5's and xc90s so wasn't really an issue. Only thing I use maindealers for is parts.
Post 805432 by britten_mark on 2016-09-16 10:16:37
Cheers. Just a PS and something i always wondered even when I had mine - is there any way of dumping the ££££ 4C system and going "analogue" like Range Rover owners do? I never liked it and it seemed more of a marketing gimmick than anything else, and like the Audi allroad just becomes a curse eventually.
Post 805447 by kevinking2020 on 2016-09-16 13:20:20
If you have a good search on the internet, you can get some good deals on the 4C Shocks.
(X2 Front monroe shocks) - £325.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311501776638?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(X2 Rear monroe shocks) - £300.25
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391339123588?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
£625.25 for all 4 shocks is a bargain.
Post 805449 by Ettienne on 2016-09-16 14:23:33
[QUOTE=britten_mark;805432]Cheers. Just a PS and something i always wondered even when I had mine - is there any way of dumping the ££££ 4C system and going "analogue" like Range Rover owners do? I never liked it and it seemed more of a marketing gimmick than anything else, and like the Audi allroad just becomes a curse eventually.[/QUOTE]
I'm gonna try the resistor mod and go coilovers on the s60r or decent shocks and springs never been a massive fan of the 4c
Post 805459 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-16 16:04:02
[QUOTE=kevinking2020;805447]If you have a good search on the internet, you can get some good deals on the 4C Shocks.
(X2 Front monroe shocks) - £325.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311501776638?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(X2 Rear monroe shocks) - £300.25
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391339123588?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
£625.25 for all 4 shocks is a bargain.[/QUOTE]
I'd be very careful as they look like copies of a Monroe shock, not genuine!
Personally, I'd rather pay more and get genuine than risk a cheap knock off copy.
The clues in the title....'OE quality'
I'd wanna see the Monroe box they came in OR the Monroe sticker that proves they are genuine items and I can't see a Monroe sticker anywhere on either shock. It should be on the leg facing the outside of the car and very visible.
Post 805468 by Tim Williams on 2016-09-16 18:29:26
I fitted some of the cheap ebay rear shocks this morning, I think they are genuine. Everything on them was spot on.
Post 805469 by Harvey on 2016-09-16 19:00:40
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;805468]I fitted some of the cheap ebay rear shocks this morning, I think they are genuine. Everything on them was spot on.[/QUOTE]
Were they boxed or any stickers to say who made them ?, might get a rear set just in case.
The seller has been around for a long time , would guess they are the real thing.
Post 805470 by Yosser on 2016-09-16 19:19:02
Must say I'm tempted to buy a full set while they're available.
Post 805472 by Harvey on 2016-09-16 19:30:42
[QUOTE=Yosser;805470]Must say I'm tempted to buy a full set while they're available.[/QUOTE]
I've got a pair for the front in store .
Post 805477 by jamesy12345 on 2016-09-16 20:43:55
Fronts on my s60 have been changed & I have a set of rears to go on..! Got them from Amazon there was a thread about it on here somewhere
Post 805581 by Harvey on 2016-09-20 10:30:01
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805459]I'd be very careful as they look like copies of a Monroe shock, not genuine!
Personally, I'd rather pay more and get genuine than risk a cheap knock off copy.
The clues in the title....'OE quality'
I'd wanna see the Monroe box they came in OR the Monroe sticker that proves they are genuine items and I can't see a Monroe sticker anywhere on either shock. It should be on the leg facing the outside of the car and very visible.[/QUOTE]
Just had a chat about these they say OE as they are not volvo shocks but OE as Monroe are the brand not volvo so got my rears on the way as the price is so good on them, it can only go up £ to € etc.
Post 805587 by volvokid on 2016-09-20 15:09:03
Those shocks are the ones I bought for the rear :)
Post 805601 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-21 09:45:49
[QUOTE=britten_mark;805432]Cheers. Just a PS and something i always wondered even when I had mine - is there any way of dumping the ££££ 4C system and going "analogue" like Range Rover owners do? I never liked it and it seemed more of a marketing gimmick than anything else, and like the Audi allroad just becomes a curse eventually.[/QUOTE]
Sounds to me like yours was never working 100%.
Four-C was just a name for the electronic suspension (Continuously Controlled Chassis Concept).
Trying to 'disconnect' it from the car is extremely difficult as Four-C is integrated with the traction control, braking systems and engine management so removing it is not a simple matter.
You'd be better off getting the suspension working properly rather than replacing loads of bits, at great expense, and hoping the car handles well. Asides from the Insurance risks by doing this, you'll likely invalidate your insurance entirely and or not get insurance all together.
There really is only five main things that affect the performance of the Four-C and it's ability to function 100% as it was intended and these are:
1. Proper four wheel alignment within Volvo spec.
2. Suspension bushes - Rear bushes wear, especially on V70R. These really tighten up the back end when replaced. Any worn bush will make suspension feel vague and unresponsive. (future proof them with Poly)
3. Rear height level sensor - Known for coming loose and or the blind rivets break off and the sensor hangs away from the rear subframe (This makes an enormous difference when fixed)
4. SUM software and calibration - Volvo's latest SUM update smooths out the shocks response time, making them less harsh. This also removes any knocking felt in COMFORT at low speed and minor road bumps.
5. The shocks and springs themselves - Yes they are expensive and springs sag but the car cost £42,000 OTR so what do you expect?! They should be changed around the 80-100k mark and the difference is night and day!
In my experience of R ownership for the past 10+ years I can honestly say, running issues and engine problems aside, if you ensure the above is all complete there is no reason why your R shouldn't drive absolutely sweet.
Granted, my cars not 100% perfect but nobody's will be unless they are brand new. Suspension wise, my car is pretty much spot on.
:eclipsee_
Post 805656 by Harvey on 2016-09-22 20:45:43
[QUOTE=Harvey;805472]I've got a pair for the front in store .[/QUOTE]
Now have a rear set aswell, They are Monroe units.
Post 805657 by Harvey on 2016-09-22 20:46:43
[QUOTE=Harvey;805472]I've got a pair for the front in store .[/QUOTE]
Now have a rear set aswell, They are Monroe units.
Post 805786 by britten_mark on 2016-09-27 13:20:56
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805601]
4. SUM software and calibration - Volvo's latest SUM update smooths out the shocks response time, making them less harsh. This also removes any knocking felt in COMFORT at low speed and minor road bumps. [/QUOTE]
This sounds interesting. I recall watching Tiff Needell doing a Volvo promotional film for the R demostrating how smooth it was yet it was never anything but harsh for me. I popped 2 18" P-Zero sidewalls on potholes my T5 would have glided over.
The scariest thing for me at the time was the intonation that so many replacement parts had to be flash coded by the main dealers, like the shockers. How do you get around that these days?
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805601]Granted, my cars not 100% perfect [/QUOTE]
Doesn't look far off though!
Post 805788 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-27 13:58:00
[QUOTE=britten_mark;805786]This sounds interesting. I recall watching Tiff Needell doing a Volvo promotional film for the R demonstrating how smooth it was yet it was never anything but harsh for me. I popped 2 18" P-Zero sidewalls on potholes my T5 would have glided over.
The scariest thing for me at the time was the intonation that so many replacement parts had to be flash coded by the main dealers, like the shockers. How do you get around that these days?[/QUOTE]
That's debateable mate! In my job on a daily basis I see 16", 17", 18" and 19" tyres with sidewall damage caused by driving through potholes. All depends on the size of the hole and the speed at which you hit it! It's totally down to luck if you even get away without damaging your rim, let alone the tyre.
Buy VIDA/DICE yourself and a suitable laptop. Not all things on the car have to be 'coded' as such, but the shock absorbers do need to be recalibrated after any suspension component change and the list is not exhaustive, including ALL bushes, bearings, shocks, springs, lower arms, level and ride height sensors.
You can even calibrate the shocks with you seated or unseated, full tank of fuel or empty....Your choice!!
All a calibration does is tells the SUM the shocks are rested on flat level ground and this then sets a datum. Any deviation + or - of this datum affects the shocks behaviour in relation to the road surface you are driving on and the inputs from the other sensors on the car, ie YAW sensors.
Things that are measured are:
the rotational speed and vertical movement of each wheel
steering wheel deflection and velocity
cornering (yaw rate)
engine torque (calculated)
braking interventions by ABS and DSTC.
There are other sensors too but that's for another thread entirely on it's own.
Post 805795 by htomi on 2016-09-27 18:39:31
[QUOTE=Ettienne;805449]I'm gonna try the resistor mod and go coilovers on the s60r or decent shocks and springs never been a massive fan of the 4c[/QUOTE]
Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.
Ask me how I know ;)
Post 805797 by Ettienne on 2016-09-27 20:41:06
[QUOTE=htomi;805795]Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.
Ask me how I know ;)[/QUOTE]
Best shocks I had on one of my guls was b6's especially for everyday use.
I'm guessing using 2.5t awd non R suspension would work ok.
I've got a spare set of 4c (used) to remove sensors from as well.
Post 805801 by LeeT5 on 2016-09-28 02:30:53
[QUOTE=htomi;805795]Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.
Ask me how I know ;)[/QUOTE]
Can you elaborate on that please? What do you mean?
Post 805803 by Yosser on 2016-09-28 07:02:09
There's a thread on Swedespeed about cutting out the sensors, if I find it I'll post the link.
Personally I'd rather retain the 4c and keep it maintained in good working order. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.
Post 805805 by Ettienne on 2016-09-28 08:25:31
[QUOTE=Yosser;805803]There's a thread on Swedespeed about cutting out the sensors, if I find it I'll post the link.
Personally I'd rather retain the 4c and keep it maintained in good working order. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.[/QUOTE]
I've got two so may try it on the s60r at some, I've def driven cars with better suspension, it's a shame as it could possibly be better as it was an early active suspension.
Post 805806 by htomi on 2016-09-28 08:41:21
[QUOTE=Ettienne;805797]Best shocks I had on one of my guls was b6's especially for everyday use.
I'm guessing using 2.5t awd non R suspension would work ok.
I've got a spare set of 4c (used) to remove sensors from as well.[/QUOTE]
Yes, the T5 fronts B6/B8 are bolt on. Rear Bilstein B6 (24-018050) This one is for a Jaguar as the T5 rears aren't sufficient - at least according to the us folks.
Bilstein part numbers:
Front: 35-052210
Rear: 24-018050
I'm running on B6s on fronts and the rears are still the original 4C. (rears are still holding off, so will leave them there till they die)
Proper SS thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208080-Four-C-strut-shock-delete-replaced-with-HD-BILSTEIN
My thread about the same here in VPCUK: http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?62059-Billstein-B6-2004-V70-R
I've done the swap back in June and still happy with the B6s. Firmness feels between comfort and sport mode, but more towards to the sport firmness. I would say its a hairline softer than the sport setting. I would certainly recommend it for daily driving.
Post 805807 by htomi on 2016-09-28 08:47:41
[QUOTE=LeeT5;805801]Can you elaborate on that please? What do you mean?[/QUOTE]
Extract the 4C sensors from the busted one by cutting (round) the strut pipe at the bottom and then unscrew the sensor from the strut housing. Place the sensors inside the engine bay and plug back. No error messages.
No need to cut it at the side = horizontally just cut the strut housing (round), then grab the valve with a clamp gently, but firm and start unbolting it from the strut. That's it. It will come out with the plug together.
Page 6 will give you an idea.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208080-Four-C-strut-shock-delete-replaced-with-HD-BILSTEIN/page7
Post 805808 by htomi on 2016-09-28 08:55:23
[QUOTE=Yosser;805803]There's a thread on Swedespeed about cutting out the sensors, if I find it I'll post the link.
Personally I'd rather retain the 4c and keep it maintained in good working order. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.[/QUOTE]
Exactly. IMHO it comes down to personal preference. Some may want to keep the car original and also happy with the 4C.
Others like myself prefer something else. I don't want to convince anybody to swap over to Bilstein, KW etc. It is just an alternative over the factory struts.
Post 805811 by Ettienne on 2016-09-28 12:22:28
[QUOTE=htomi;805806]Yes, the T5 fronts B6/B8 are bolt on. Rear Bilstein B6 (24-018050) This one is for a Jaguar as the T5 rears aren't sufficient - at least according to the us folks.
Bilstein part numbers:
Front: 35-052210
Rear: 24-018050
I'm running on B6s on fronts and the rears are still the original 4C. (rears are still holding off, so will leave them there till they die)
Proper SS thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208080-Four-C-strut-shock-delete-replaced-with-HD-BILSTEIN
My thread about the same here in VPCUK: http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?62059-Billstein-B6-2004-V70-R
I've done the swap back in June and still happy with the B6s. Firmness feels between comfort and sport mode, but more towards to the sport firmness. I would say its a hairline softer than the sport setting. I would certainly recommend it for daily driving.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for that very useful, what springs you running and what jag are the rears off
Post 805814 by htomi on 2016-09-28 13:12:52
Stock springs. Left the original springs in place as those were still fine.
The main reason I went with the B6s and not the B8s is the overall road quality in Ireland = wanted something sporty without really sacrificing the ride comfort on the **** roads.
The rears are for DAIMLER XJ 40, 81 Double Six 6.0, Sovereign 3.6, Sovereign 4.0 (09/89-09/94) or JAGUAR XJ (XJ 40, 81) 4.0, 6 2.9, 6 3.2 24V, 6 3.6, 6 4.0 (09/89-11/94) according to bilstein-shocks.co.uk
The guy on the SS forum who invented into this mod the first time ever, figured that a strut from an RWD car with similar weight would be ideal candidate.
As far as I read on his thread, lowered his 850 first on Jag shocks and then applied the same idea on his S60R.
I do really recommend to read his topic about the conversion: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?208080-Four-C-strut-shock-delete-replaced-with-HD-BILSTEIN
And some inspiration about other mods he completed:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?159820-Dougy-s-S60R
