v70 p1 t5 ETM issues

Post 807038 by Mun802 on 2016-11-10 09:31:53

hi first post on here. Owned my 99 v70 t5 for a month or so now. Running few little mods but nothing major. rica 304, exhaust, intake etc etc ETS light is coming on more frequent. Revs hunting at idle and sudden power loss whilst driving along hesitating/bogging down. Believe this to be an ETM issue. Checked last night and im running one of the white sticker modules. I believe this is an earlier unit and the yellow sticker units seem to be stronger/more reliable. What are my options? Swap for a yellow, then they have to be reprogrammed? Does anyone offer rebuilding services for them? Located just outside Blackpool, North West. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Post 807043 by Coral gt t5 on 2016-11-10 12:09:47

Himun802 the best solution with these cars is book in with your local dealer my last two c70 t5s had same problem cost me £375 all in for new etm module fitting and downloading data this is a Volvo fixed price job so don't pay anymore than that my local dealer was Harrets in Sheffield it was dun in day after booking in its just one of the hits you got a take with these cars am on my third c70 t5 now but it's got a cable throttle body hallelujah !! This is the best option and I know I'm in the trade hope this helps Dean

Post 807044 by jamesy12345 on 2016-11-10 12:33:01

Are you sure it's the ETM, maybe check through this to help diagnose... http://xemodex.com/us/pdf/ETM%20Flow%20Chart%2099-00-new-final.pdf

Post 807046 by Mun802 on 2016-11-10 13:00:00

[QUOTE=Coral gt t5;807043]Himun802 the best solution with these cars is book in with your local dealer my last two c70 t5s had same problem cost me £375 all in for new etm module fitting and downloading data this is a Volvo fixed price job so don't pay anymore than that my local dealer was Harrets in Sheffield it was dun in day after booking in its just one of the hits you got a take with these cars am on my third c70 t5 now but it's got a cable throttle body hallelujah !! This is the best option and I know I'm in the trade hope this helps Dean[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=jamesy12345;807044]Are you sure it's the ETM, maybe check through this to help diagnose... http://xemodex.com/us/pdf/ETM%20Flow%20Chart%2099-00-new-final.pdf[/QUOTE] I have a spare MAF to try tonight. That flow chart is great, thanks Jamesy. Theres a local volvo specialist 1mile from work. Will pop down this afternoon and see if they can bring up the codes. Thanks for the help

Post 807067 by Mun802 on 2016-11-10 20:37:23

how

Post 807073 by Mun802 on 2016-11-11 06:57:27

[ATTACH=CONFIG]31203[/ATTACH] Managed to get my codes read yesterday. Errrmmmm........... Will start with the front and rear o2 sensors and go from there.......

Post 807074 by jamesy12345 on 2016-11-11 07:25:41

wow that's some list. Although TPS codes stored with no MAF or misfire codes present seems to point at the ETM..at least according to the Xeomodex flowchart Before changing anything though how's the battery/charging system - just a thought but with all those codes covering different parts of the car maybe battery voltage is too low (or high even). If it was my car I'd be making sure battery & alternator output are within limits, then clearing the codes & seeing what comes back prior to spending time & cash changing things out

Post 807076 by LeeT5 on 2016-11-11 08:20:23

[QUOTE=Mun802;807038] ETS light is coming on more frequent. Revs hunting at idle and sudden power loss whilst driving along hesitating/bogging down. Believe this to be an ETM issue. Checked last night and im running one of the white sticker modules. I believe this is an earlier unit and the yellow sticker units seem to be stronger/more reliable. What are my options? Swap for a yellow, then they have to be reprogrammed? Does anyone offer rebuilding services for them? Thanks[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=Mun802;807073][ATTACH=CONFIG]31203[/ATTACH] Managed to get my codes read yesterday. Errrmmmm........... Will start with the front and rear o2 sensors and go from there.......[/QUOTE] Why would you want to waste money replacing O2 sensors, when you've read the codes and there is clearly a fault with the ETM.......ETM-91A7?! My P1 V70R had exactly the same symptoms. I'm not saying that I'm diagnosing it, just by looking at your fault code list...I'm just going with the facts and my experience, knowledge and along with what I see on your fault code list! If you were a garage and you said to me you were going to start by replacing the O2 sensors, I'd be deeply concerned and probably drive away, taking my Volvo with me! From experience, O2 sensors generally become lazy with age and less responsive. They can last 200k if the cars not had too hard a life, but generally last 100k before they really should be replaced. As Jamesy says, you need to FIRST clear all the fault codes. Start car and check charging voltage is above 13.5v (under load) and then drive the car for about 50 miles with at least 3 drive cycles (ie switch off and restart). Then reread the car. I would also select 'live data' and actually see what the O2 sensor voltage's are and that they are within spec. Granted, replacing the O2 sensors will undoubtedly improve throttle response and idle but O2 sensors won't cause the car to cut out. Knowing what I know and seeing what you've showed us, I'd be more concerned about the ETM and this would be the first thing on my list. To answer your question, there are places you can have it refurbished and these guys are probably the best in the UK...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Magneti-Marelli-Throttle-Body-REPAIR-SERVICE-1738000108-/401168510615?hash=item5d6781ae97 Their website: https://www.bba-reman.com/us/index.aspx Turn around is generally 3 days and come with a lifetime warranty! I've used them for a dash pod on an Audi TT and they saved me a cool £728!! Alternatively, a trip to your Dealer will see the ETM software updated first followed by a road test and monitor live readings. If that doesn't work, then a new ETM and software reload will solve the problem and that will cost you £300. My guess is your ABS sensor fault will return and you may as well get them to replace that too while it's in. From memory, any ABS sensor fault will automatically disable the TRACS, ABS and any DSTC system you have and they are pretty crucial with the cold, wet weather now on us. :smile:

Post 807077 by Mun802 on 2016-11-11 08:22:40

Quite the list. Battery is fine, never struggles to fire. No battery warning lights. Alternator is caked in oil/power steering fluid and it's met the belt and splattered it all over underside of bonnet. I believe it's been there for some time though. Will get a multimeter on it this afternoon, what should it be reading? Was advised cleaning the ETM may solve some problems so will look into that before replacing? Worth replacing both o2 sensors though first? Thanks

Post 807078 by Mun802 on 2016-11-11 08:29:26

[QUOTE=LeeT5;807076]Why would you want to waste money replacing O2 sensors, when you've read the codes and there is clearly a fault with the ETM.......ETM-91A7?! My P1 V70R had exactly the same symptoms. I'm not saying that I'm diagnosing it, just by looking at your fault code list...I'm just going with the facts and my experience, knowledge and along with what I see on your fault code list! If you were a garage and you said to me you were going to start by replacing the O2 sensors, I'd be deeply concerned and probably drive away, taking my Volvo with me! From experience, O2 sensors generally become lazy with age and less responsive. They can last 200k if the cars not had too hard a life, but generally last 100k before they really should be replaced. As Jamesy says, you need to FIRST clear all the fault codes. Start car and check charging voltage is above 13.5v (under load) and then drive the car for about 50 miles with at least 3 drive cycles (ie switch off and restart). Then reread the car. I would also select 'live data' and actually see what the O2 sensor voltage's are and that they are within spec. Granted, replacing the O2 sensors will undoubtedly improve throttle response and idle but O2 sensors won't cause the car to cut out. Knowing what I know and seeing what you've showed us, I'd be more concerned about the ETM and this would be the first thing on my list. To answer your question, there are places you can have it refurbished and these guys are probably the best in the UK...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Magneti-Marelli-Throttle-Body-REPAIR-SERVICE-1738000108-/401168510615?hash=item5d6781ae97 Their website: https://www.bba-reman.com/us/index.aspx Turn around is generally 3 days and come with a lifetime warranty! I've used them for a dash pod on an Audi TT and they saved me a cool £728!! Alternatively, a trip to your Dealer will see the ETM software updated first followed by a road test and monitor live readings. If that doesn't work, then a new ETM and software reload will solve the problem and that will cost you £300. My guess is your ABS sensor fault will return and you may as well get them to replace that too while it's in. From memory, any ABS sensor fault will automatically disable the TRACS, ABS and any DSTC system you have and they are pretty crucial with the cold, wet weather now on us. :smile:[/QUOTE] sorry Lee just seen this. Appreciate your help. Will check charging voltage this afternoon. Thanks for the link for replacement ETM. Car is on a smudge under 200k, i was told front o2 was replaced a month before I obtained the car but obviously was nonsense. Car has never cut out on me......yet. Just hesitates and bogs at certain rpm. ABS light/traction control light comes on over harsh bumps then sometimes will dissapear over another bump. Will get that replaced. Not ideal in this weather no. Thanks for the help

Post 807079 by LeeT5 on 2016-11-11 08:38:26

[QUOTE=Mun802;807077]Quite the list. Battery is fine, never struggles to fire. No battery warning lights. Alternator is caked in oil/power steering fluid and it's met the belt and splattered it all over underside of bonnet. I believe it's been there for some time though. Will get a multimeter on it this afternoon, what should it be reading? Was advised cleaning the ETM may solve some problems so will look into that before replacing? Worth replacing both o2 sensors though first? [/QUOTE] Charging voltage: 13.5v - 14.5v. It's common for the P/S reservoir to pump hose to leak at the pump end. My guess is you have the old type reservoir with the Orange writing on it? You're be best placed to replace the reservoir and hose to the pump. They are modified from 05> and you'll need 3 bottles of CHF fluid to do a system flush and refill. Well worth it mate....see my project thread for a 'How too'. http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?51462-LeeT5-s-V70R-Project/page20 (page#383) Cleaning the ETM will NOT fix the fault! It's an electrical/internal fault with the module. All cleaning it will do is maybe remove some unwanted sticky carbon residue from the butterfly, but the motors are incredibly strong and it will have a minor effect on performance. Do not replace the O2 sensors first mate...trust me. You'll be pis sing in the wind.

Post 807080 by LeeT5 on 2016-11-11 08:43:31

[QUOTE=Mun802;807078]sorry Lee just seen this. Appreciate your help. Will check charging voltage this afternoon. Thanks for the link for replacement ETM. Car is on a smudge under 200k, i was told front o2 was replaced a month before I obtained the car but obviously was nonsense. Car has never cut out on me......yet. Just hesitates and bogs at certain rpm. ABS light/traction control light comes on over harsh bumps then sometimes will dissapear over another bump. Will get that replaced. Not ideal in this weather no. Thanks for the help[/QUOTE] If the O2 sensor is only a month old, look over the back of the engine and inspect the lume. It will be obviously very clean and the plastic clips that hold the heatshielding to the harness will be very black and very new looking. The sensor plug will also be a dead give away as it will be new compared to the female plug. If it's not, then assume it's not been replaced, unless you have an invoice? If you do get a new sensor, only get a BOSCH one. The difference in driving between old/new is pretty remarkable. However, you won't notice it with a faulty ETM and or a faulty MAF! You'll also need a 22mm O2 sensor tool to remove it: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/draper-55540-expert-22mm-3-8-inch-square-drive-oxygen-sensor-socket?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=xtlammqllm&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:627838503|agid:32471678884|tid:pla-279326334964|crid:112784844724|nw:g|rnd:5855348305040016600|dvc:c|adp:1o5&gclid=CObEutypoNACFRPjGwod_9UJoQ#

Post 807081 by Mun802 on 2016-11-11 09:07:16

[QUOTE=LeeT5;807080]If the O2 sensor is only a month old, look over the back of the engine and inspect the lume. It will be obviously very clean and the plastic clips that hold the heatshielding to the harness will be very black and very new looking. The sensor plug will also be a dead give away as it will be new compared to the female plug. If it's not, then assume it's not been replaced, unless you have an invoice? If you do get a new sensor, only get a BOSCH one. The difference in driving between old/new is pretty remarkable. However, you won't notice it with a faulty ETM and or a faulty MAF! You'll also need a 22mm O2 sensor tool to remove it: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/draper-55540-expert-22mm-3-8-inch-square-drive-oxygen-sensor-socket?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=xtlammqllm&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:627838503|agid:32471678884|tid:pla-279326334964|crid:112784844724|nw:g|rnd:5855348305040016600|dvc:c|adp:1o5&gclid=CObEutypoNACFRPjGwod_9UJoQ#[/QUOTE] Thanks Lee, will do some digging this afternoon and see what comes up. No invoice for the o2 sensor just the guys word. I looked at your how to for the ps reservoir, I have the old style with orange writing yes. Another job to the list. Appreciate your help. Wil let you know how I get on this afternoon. Thanks