I'm trying to install CBV but unable to rotate compressor housing. I'm having trouble getting to one bolt at the bottom, towards block. All other bolts have been undo. Any ideas or suggestions? Here's a little video i've done: [video=youtube_share;z4kvHIyG6W8]https://youtu.be/z4kvHIyG6W8[/video]
The coppressor housing is normally pinned to the exhaust side so won't rotate unless separated
It's an absolute C**t of a job. 2 of the bolts are easy and one of them is a bitch. You don't rotate the compressor housing either, it's fixed. Your video don't really make much sense cos it's all over the place mate. IIRC, you'll need to get your arm underneath the turbo by laying on the engine (right side) and squeezing your elbow behind the ABS pump and bulkhead. It's really tight and awkward, but with Percy Verance (LOL, he's a mate of mine that I use regularly)) and taking you're time, you'll get to it with normal tools, not a 10mm, that's for sure. Think you need a 5mm or 6mm hex on a 1/4" ratchet and small extension. Will help if you use carb cleaner and clean off the surrounding residue and oil from the surrounding area though. Make sure you block off the Turbo ports with a clean rag before you do anything! Don't wanna drop anything in there. I can't remember if there's a coolant hose that has to be disconnected and moved to gain access? Good lighting and take your time. It cannot be accessed from underneath, so don't bother ;) (I would delete that video from Youtube, before you get slated)
The compressor housing isn't attached to the turbine housing, it's attached to the compressor housing backing plate and that to the core and the core to the turbine housing. You can rotate the compressor housing, to do that correctly you would remove the turbo and then replace the O ring that seals it lol. If you don't want to do it correctly you can rotate the housing by slackening the M6 screws that hold it on. As Lee pointed out it is possible to access the £££££££ bolt with some care, if removing it is a bit troublesome then refitting it will be a little bit harder... I allow an hour to change the rec valve on the K24s as they are a pain.
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;808931]The compressor housing isn't attached to the turbine housing, it's attached to the compressor housing backing plate and that to the core and the core to the turbine housing. You can rotate the compressor housing, to do that correctly you would remove the turbo and then replace the O ring that seals it lol. If you don't want to do it correctly you can rotate the housing by slackening the M6 screws that hold it on. As Lee pointed out it is possible to access the £££££££ bolt with some care, if removing it is a bit troublesome then refitting it will be a little bit harder... I allow an hour to change the rec valve on the K24s as they are a pain.[/QUOTE] ....also you must make sure you note the correct orientation of the CBV you're fitting. If it's a Forge type, then it will have a 'cut away', almost like a chamfer on one edge. IIRC this must face up or towards the direction of the port outlet. You can easily make more access and visibility to the front of the turbo if you remove the spark plug covers and the the top engine mount (held in by 4 bolts). Make sure, when you remove the bolts, that you note which hole they go back into, as they are of different lengths. It's important to clean away all the crud and dirt from the recirc valve before fitting the new valve, otherwise you risk some of the crud falling into the turbo wastegate port. :wink:
I managed to rotate compressor housing today... What a nightmware of a job. I also have to remove coolant pipe for the Turbosmart CBV to fit...
Now able to access old CBV
removing old CBV
old CBV vs Turbosmart CBV
Turbosmart CBV installed
I also installed SNABB Intake and Oil catch can
I fit quite a few Turbosmart valves, it's worth checking that the two O rings seal on the banjo as I've had a couple that leaked causing poor operation. Just suck on the hose.
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;808951]I fit quite a few Turbosmart valves, it's worth checking that the two O rings seal on the banjo as I've had a couple that leaked causing poor operation. Just suck on the hose.[/QUOTE] I replaced bango with the straight nip one. Was having troubles with bango.
[QUOTE=kevinking2020;808948]
removing old CBV
Turbosmart CBV installed
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Looks like you fitted the new valve incorrectly.
[QUOTE=kevinking2020;808948]
old CBV vs Turbosmart CBV
Turbosmart CBV installed
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Looks like you fitted the valve incorrectly.
[QUOTE=kevinking2020;808948]
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That oil hose won't last 5 minutes, perched on the edge of the Air filter housing like that! It will cut through in no time with vibration.
Why didn't you route that hose under the other hose and to the rear of the air box?
Yeah I need to re-route the oil catch hoses. The mrs was getting abit annoyed me spending all day on the car, when we needed to go food shopping. I just wanted to get it all hooked up and working.... Also how is the CBV fitted incorrectly?
[QUOTE=kevinking2020;808990]Yeah I need to re-route the oil catch hoses. The mrs was getting abit annoyed me spending all day on the car, when we needed to go food shopping. I just wanted to get it all hooked up and working.... Also how is the CBV fitted incorrectly?[/QUOTE] It was my understanding, at least with the Forge CBV, that the vacuum port was to point in the direction on the wastegate port on the turbo (as in the first picture with the OE valve). Apparently, this is to aid directional flow of the vented air so that it has no restrictions or sharp corners, therefore aiding in the correct and most efficient operation of the valve. It looks like you need to turn your valve one rotation to the right - 120 degrees.
But did he not replace the pictured banjo connection with a straight one, which would remove an oriention issue...
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;809012]But did he not replace the pictured banjo connection with a straight one, which would remove an oriention issue...[/QUOTE] That's a fair point. Fair enough :smile: