Project 850 T5 AWD
Posts
Post 810262 by oblark on 2017-03-05 19:33:15
After fitting a T5 engine in a 240 I thought I needed a more challenging project.
So I brought a 97 V70 awd with a full service history and 150k miles from a guy who had owned it for 8 years and only driven it around north london.
So over last weekend the running gear was removed and the shell scrapped.
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Once the engine/gearbox was set up the standard downpipe was removed and a 3" stainless one was tack welded together.
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As for the engine I got a 850 block bored out to 83mm making it a 2.4. It was rebuilt with a ME7 pistons, crank aump and a S^)R head with my VVT delete pulleys.
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Post 810263 by MoleT-5R on 2017-03-05 19:50:29
Nice project Rob, as always I will be avidly watching the progress of your latest phase of the 850's progress. I like the 2.4 850 block mods and look forward to seeing what she makes on the rollers when completed, keep up the good work mate.
Post 810284 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-06 11:28:12
Nice project, looking forward to future updates :)
You got any mods planned for the AWD system?
Post 810291 by Tim Williams on 2017-03-06 13:02:32
They work well, Adam from Wales did it on his 854R. Iirc volvo have now ran out of some of the rear suspension mounting brackets, they are easy to remove from a donor. I think Shem got a couple of sets when he did his shell and didn't use them all.
Post 810296 by oblark on 2017-03-06 19:07:48
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;810284]Nice project, looking forward to future updates :)
You got any mods planned for the AWD system?[/QUOTE]
The only mods I'm going to do is to upgrade the solid discs to the XC90 discs & calipers.
I've done a quick mock up and discovered the discs fit, the calipers fit BUT the calipers won't fit when the discs are fitted.
Looks like a bracket is needed.
Post 810304 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-07 10:47:51
[QUOTE=oblark;810296]The only mods I'm going to do is to upgrade the solid discs to the XC90 discs & calipers.
I've done a quick mock up and discovered the discs fit, the calipers fit BUT the calipers won't fit when the discs are fitted.
Looks like a bracket is needed.[/QUOTE]
Hmmm interesting.
Think I need to look at my AWD system as I think it is slipping at some stage.
Post 810318 by oblark on 2017-03-07 19:36:44
The donor car had a vibration that came from the centre tunnel, on closer investigation it was found that the centre bearing was a little dry but the centre UJ was seized these causing the vibration. Got a new brg on order along with a complete UJ, all should be here for the weekend.
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Post 810371 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-09 21:42:01
Nice, good thing that they use available parts as getting those things from Volvo would mean a whole new prop (if you can still get them that is).
BTW where did you get the bits from?
Post 810539 by oblark on 2017-03-15 20:12:22
All the parts have turned up so I can now rebuild the propshaft.
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Post 810614 by oblark on 2017-03-20 19:13:29
Got the internal reinforcing plate welded in for the torque tube fixing point. Also found £7.42 between the sound proofing and the floor plan under the drivers seat. Looks like it's been there a few years.
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Some before and after photos of the angle gear.
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Post 810615 by kmb on 2017-03-20 19:19:56
Under the seat treasure! Looking good Rob.
Post 810625 by MoleT-5R on 2017-03-21 10:08:35
[QUOTE=oblark;810614]Some before and after photos of the angle gear.
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did you strip and rebuild it with new seal etc Rob ?
Post 810626 by oblark on 2017-03-21 11:05:33
Nope, just cleaned it.
But I will be changing all the oil seals and changing the oil.
Post 810664 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-23 10:39:36
May be worth taking it apart and cleaning the crud out of it, mine had done 160k and had a very thick layer of sludge around the whole inside, took me ages to scrape it all out. Plus there is ports off the main reservoir that splash oil through to the outer bearing on the output shaft. Quite an odd design really.
The only issue is tightening the output shaft nut, it has to be done to a specific torque as there is a crush ring on the shaft.
Post 810669 by oblark on 2017-03-23 21:37:06
Picked up a xc70 m66 gearbox during the week and discovered today that a early p1 angle gear doesn't fit a m66 gearbox. Also found out the the p1 collar is obsolete.
Need to look into what the s60r angle gear ratio.
Post 810670 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-23 22:00:30
I'm guessing they have different hole centres?
Whichever angle gear you get you'll need the rear diff off the same model to match
Post 810671 by oblark on 2017-03-23 22:17:05
The hole pattern is the same it's the splinde shaft, the early p1 shaft is 4mm smaller diameter than the P2
My current angle gear/diff is a 3.31 which looks to be same as the s60r.
Post 810672 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-03-23 22:53:07
Good info :)
I guess a P2 collar won't fit into the hole on a P1 angle gear? (thinking machine down a P1 collar to fit inside a machined P2 collar for the angle gear side). And I guess S60R angle gears aren't cheap?
Post 810709 by oblark on 2017-03-26 20:39:57
Picked up a M66 diesel xc 70 gearbox during the week and thats when the fun started. After searching the good old internet I couldn't find nothing to comfirm whether the diesel collar was the same as the petrol collar. Well I can confirm that the diesel collar has 47 splines and the petrol collar has 45 splines. So I'm going to see if i can get a custom collar made with 47 splines at 1 end and 45 at the other end.
I can also confirm the S60R angle has a ratio of 2.56 - 1 and fits the M58 gearbox.
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A P1 v70 awd angle gear compared with a P2 S60R angle gear.
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So after the fun and games with angle collars I fabricated the new M66 gearbox mount.
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Post 810844 by oblark on 2017-04-02 20:07:20
Had fun playing musical gearboxes. I took the internals out of a M66D and put them in the XC casing to make a M66E awd gearbox, just need the s60r diff to finish it off.
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After yesterday's fun I'd thought I'd something less stressful and finish off the exhaust ....................... How wrong was I.
Finishing off the downpipe was ok and making the pipe for cat was to bad. But bit of pipe from the cat to the rear section was a right PITA, but it's done and just needs tig welding.
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Post 810858 by Tim Williams on 2017-04-03 13:01:15
Are you after a standard or Quaife diff?
Post 810871 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-04-03 22:57:02
[QUOTE=Tim Williams;810858]Are you after a standard or Quaife diff?[/QUOTE]
Quaife rear diff?
Post 811083 by oblark on 2017-04-12 18:59:09
Found a local powder coater so I thought I'd give them a try, The parts came back perfect so much so I've dropped some more parts to be powder coated. Also picked up new brgs for the diff and some seals for the angle gear.
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Started rebuilding the rear suspension and test fitted the exhaust which looks to have plenty of clearance.
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And the last part of the gearbox puzzle arrived yesterday.
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Post 811097 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-04-12 22:39:05
That powder coating looks fab!
Should give them some extra protection for a while.
What's the diff from and why?
Post 811116 by oblark on 2017-04-13 16:43:11
The diff is from a s60r
I've had to use the s60r one as the xc70 diff has larger drive shafts and a 47 splinde collar (s60r, v70 awd & 850 awd use a 45 splinde collar)
Post 811123 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-04-13 21:19:58
Good info there bud! Cheers :)
Wonder why on earth they decide to have so many different types of driveshaft?
Post 811204 by oblark on 2017-04-16 20:26:37
It's been a busy day. Got the M66 hybrid gearbox all back together. Modified the subframe so the C70 subframe brace would fit, just waiting for the rear brace so it can modified for the AWD centre brg support.
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Also got around to painting the fuel lines but I think I got the wrong colour enamel :)
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Post 811241 by MoleT-5R on 2017-04-17 16:53:28
[QUOTE=oblark;811204]It's been a busy day. Got the M66 hybrid gearbox all back together. Modified the subframe so the C70 subframe brace would fit, just waiting for the rear brace so it can modified for the AWD centre brg support.
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Also got around to painting the fuel lines but I think I got the wrong colour enamel :)
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nice update Rob, the subframe brace should stiffen things up a fair bit, not something I knew about but worth considering for my Olive at some point, probably when she goes to solid mounts in the near future.
Post 811505 by oblark on 2017-05-02 19:20:55
Got the subframe and rear suspension parts back from the powder coaters. Made up a jig for the C70 soft top under floor brace ready for modify to fit the AWD centre brg support.
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Post 811526 by charlesboya on 2017-05-03 17:18:59
[QUOTE=oblark;811505]Got the subframe and rear suspension parts back from the powder coaters. Made up a jig for the C70 soft top under floor brace ready for modify to fit the AWD centre brg support.
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Well done Rob, great ideas and work as usual.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post 812863 by oblark on 2017-07-09 18:57:16
I thougth it was about time I built up the subframe as the awd conversionis only weeks away.
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Post 812865 by stribo on 2017-07-09 19:17:22
Coming on nicely Rob, how much was it to powdercoat the front subframe? I've got to change the steering rack on the V70R, so might be worth doing whilst it's off.
Post 812867 by claymore on 2017-07-10 09:06:47
Track rods are on the wrong sides ;)
Post 812876 by LeeT5 on 2017-07-10 12:53:01
[QUOTE=claymore;812867]Track rods are on the wrong sides ;)[/QUOTE]
Well spotted!! Curve to the rear, not the front.
Post 812878 by oblark on 2017-07-10 13:01:29
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I think you two need to get your eyes tested.
Post 812883 by LeeT5 on 2017-07-10 13:29:01
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I think you two need to get your eyes tested.[/QUOTE]
Fairy muff :o
Post 812900 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-07-11 12:45:22
[QUOTE=claymore;812867]Track rods are on the wrong sides ;)[/QUOTE]
Nah, they're just upside down. The pins go down through the hub.
Post 813072 by oblark on 2017-07-22 19:46:32
Had a very productive day, the awd conversion is going to plan. The only hiccup was all 4 shock top mount captive nuts broke off, had to cut the mount into pieces to get at the bolts.
Tomorrow job is to weld the 4 fixings to the frame legs as rain stopped play today.
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Post 813077 by JT on 2017-07-23 08:50:50
Awesome work Rob:B_thumb:
Now you have the rear subframe in, I have a question for you:
Do you think its possible to run FWD but using the rear subframe to get rid of the Delta link?
Post 813093 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-07-23 18:44:39
Nice work :D
[QUOTE=JT;813077]Awesome work Rob:B_thumb:
Do you think its possible to run FWD but using the rear subframe to get rid of the Delta link?[/QUOTE]
I was thinking of doing the same with my AWD, just removing all the diff and running the multilink on it's own. The only issue I can see is the loss in weight impacting on how the rear suspension works (will it ride higher?)
Post 813097 by oblark on 2017-07-23 19:56:26
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;813093]
I was thinking of doing the same with my AWD, just removing all the diff and running the multilink on it's own. The only issue I can see is the loss in weight impacting on how the rear suspension works (will it ride higher?)[/QUOTE]
The other thing would be is the limited supply of aftermarket springs and shocks for the AWD suspension.
Another good day until rain stopped play.
I managed to get the 4 mounting plates welded in and the underside of the car undersealed, The rear suspension is in just need to the tie rods and bolt the fuel tank in then is on to removing the engine and subframe.
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Post 813205 by oblark on 2017-07-30 21:02:51
Had a week of dodging the rain but managed too remove the engine/gearbox and fit the replacement engine with XC70 D5 gearbox also swapped over the abs unit to a tracs unit.
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Post 813210 by MoleT-5R on 2017-07-31 20:57:18
Great work as always Rob....been following on fb but it's so much easier to see the detail better here in your pics, I didn't realise that you didn't have TRACS I assumed all 850's had it as mine all do, is it hard to add or just plug and play so ask to speak..??
Post 813307 by oblark on 2017-08-06 21:13:53
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;813210]Great work as always Rob....been following on fb but it's so much easier to see the detail better here in your pics, I didn't realise that you didn't have TRACS I assumed all 850's had it as mine all do, is it hard to add or just plug and play so ask to speak..??[/QUOTE]
It was just a case of fitting a tracs ABS unit and a tracs switch and it was plug and play :)
There's something you don't see everyday..........
[video=youtube_share;kPwWqzLNjNc]https://youtu.be/kPwWqzLNjNc[/video]
Finished the exhaust off, got it started then put it back on it's wheels. Ride height doesn't look to bad.
Just need to sort out a MAF bracket and readjust the handbrake.
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Post 813308 by Ettienne on 2017-08-06 21:22:41
Well done, looks awesome!
Post 813334 by petrolh34d on 2017-08-08 21:43:06
Great work!
Post 813341 by MoleT-5R on 2017-08-09 09:14:29
great work Rob, you'll have to keep the tread depths even front and back now to stop the awd wanting to kill itself, unless you where to fit a haldex unit somehow........???? Steve should soon have a spare one knocking about when he breaks that s60r....;)
Post 813350 by oblark on 2017-08-09 16:04:38
Reference tyres,
I came across this on an American Web site about the early awd and tyres.
IF there is a tire circumference difference you use the larger on front. The overrunning clutch in rear of viscous unit lets the rear driveshaft not stress the angle gear. Smaller tires up front will make the rear go slower and the overrunning clutch locks and the angle gear will get loaded and cook out the fluid and it dies.
On that I've fitted my newest to the front. But I'll keeping an eye on how all 4 wear.
Post 813351 by kmb on 2017-08-09 18:25:53
Very impressive works as always Rob - How does the grip and driving feel differ?
Post 813355 by JT on 2017-08-09 18:54:34
[QUOTE=kmb;813351][COLOR="#FF0000"]Very impressive works as always Rob[/COLOR] - How does the grip and driving feel differ?[/QUOTE]
Having seen this in the flesh at the weekend, I have to agree 100%!!
Even joked if Rob goes to a meet, he'll need to roll the car over on its side to show off his hard work!
Excellent work Rob, good to see you again :B_thumb:
Post 813360 by MoleT-5R on 2017-08-09 22:05:55
[QUOTE=oblark;813350]Reference tyres,
I came across this on an American Web site about the early awd and tyres.
IF there is a tire circumference difference you use the larger on front. The overrunning clutch in rear of viscous unit lets the rear driveshaft not stress the angle gear. Smaller tires up front will make the rear go slower and the overrunning clutch locks and the angle gear will get loaded and cook out the fluid and it dies.
On that I've fitted my newest to the front. But I'll keeping an eye on how all 4 wear.[/QUOTE]
Now that is handy to know Rob, makes sense to me, I alway put my deepest treaded tyres upfront
Post 813416 by oblark on 2017-08-14 19:48:41
The last job was to make a MAF bracket, instead of just making the bracket I ended up make a air box complete with cold air feed.
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Took the car out for a test drive, well the tracking needs doing as the steering wheel is at half ££££, the steering feels notchy - I think it still has air in the system. The only other little problem is the exhaust tone, at 40 mph in 4th it drones like hell - so I've ordered a in line silencer which should lower the exhaust tone.
Looks like the ratios in the diesel box are a lot better than the other M66 box, 40 mph = 1700 rpm this means 160 mph = 6800 rpm in 4th :)
When braking from 50mph I can fell a vibration through the brake pedal.
The donor v70awd also did this but the only thinks brake related that have been taken from the v70awd are the brake master, long drive shaft and the near side complete hub.
Could this be the N/S sensor playing up or a CV joint ?
Post 813417 by Doingitsideways on 2017-08-14 21:52:29
I'd suggest CV joint.
Any difference whether braking in gear, or with clutch depressed etc?
Just reread...
Were the hub faces nice and clean?
Maybe a bit of runout giving similar symptoms to warped discs
Post 813782 by oblark on 2017-09-17 20:27:58
[QUOTE=Doingitsideways;813417]I'd suggest CV joint.
Any difference whether braking in gear, or with clutch depressed etc?
Just reread...
Were the hub faces nice and clean?
Maybe a bit of runout giving similar symptoms to warped discs[/QUOTE]
It was the brake pressure switch on the master.
Post 813783 by oblark on 2017-09-17 20:37:04
I had the tracking done which has made a big difference to the steering :)
I've done just over a hundred miles in it now, still getting used to the diesel box, I have to remember to change down to 2nd when pulling away from 30 mph if not the engine bogs down and won't pull away.
The AWD is fantastic :) it's great powering out of corners a lot earlier than a FWD.
Here are some photo's from Saturday's Beaulieu meet.
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Post 813784 by MoleT-5R on 2017-09-18 04:58:36
You can't beat a bit of shiny olive paintwork, she's looking fantastic Rob
Post 813787 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-09-18 09:23:41
Looking good there bud, reminds me I need to get my paintwork sorted as it looks a mess.
The AWD grip is quite exciting :D
Post 813792 by oblark on 2017-09-18 20:02:21
Forgot to put a photo of the engine bay :)
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Post 813814 by charlesboya on 2017-09-20 08:26:04
[QUOTE=oblark;813792]Forgot to put a photo of the engine bay :)
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Looks great Rob, well done mate.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post 814407 by oblark on 2017-10-19 19:23:48
Update time.
It`s about time the suspension got an overhaul as I`ve never changed the front shocks so I brought a set of 850 Bilsteins b4`s, just need to get some top mounts and some front lowering springs. The rear self leveling shocks will be replaced once I`ve made some brackets to mount the 850 shocks.
A quick little upgrade after next months MOT will be a set of 550cc injectors :)
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Post 815382 by Andzey on 2018-01-25 17:31:12
[QUOTE=oblark;811083]And the last part of the gearbox puzzle arrived yesterday.
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Is that a standard Petrol M66 AWD diff ? Supposedly from S60R M66C, right?
From your story it becomes clear that the 45-spline-to-angle-gear petrol M66 diff paired with the D5 final gear ring without issues. Is it so?
With all this effort you got M66 with wide diesel gears and 4:1 final drive + 45 spline output mounting the P80 angle gear without worries... Brilliant.
Last thing - interestingly, if it is possible to interchange the XC final gear pair into AWD housing ?
Post 815384 by MoleT-5R on 2018-01-25 23:01:49
[QUOTE=Andzey;815382]Is that a standard Petrol M66 AWD diff ? Supposedly from S60R M66C, right?
From your story it becomes clear that the 45-spline-to-angle-gear petrol M66 diff paired with the D5 final gear ring without issues. Is it so?
With all this effort you got M66 with wide diesel gears and 4:1 final drive + 45 spline output mounting the P80 angle gear without worries... Brilliant.
Last thing - interestingly, if it is possible to interchange the XC final gear pair into AWD housing ?[/QUOTE]
Not done it myself,but have chopped and changedgears in a M56, so I'd imaginethe m66 would be as easy to do..:)
Post 815389 by Andzey on 2018-01-26 16:27:21
[QUOTE=oblark;811505]Got the subframe and rear suspension parts back from the powder coaters. Made up a jig for the C70 soft top under floor brace ready for modify to fit the AWD centre brg support.
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The U brace from C70 convertible is a nice upgrade, but isnt it interfering to AWD (angle gear) or downpipe?
MAybe you know, if the C70 front subframe is wider or not? This would probably men longer driveshafts as well?
Post 815397 by Andzey on 2018-01-27 20:59:53
Stupid me, just read the whole topic again and there is clearly stated you use a S60R diff.
The input shaft is probably the same both T5 D5 gearboxes - 23 splines?
Most important - what flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disc combo do you guys prefer here in UK in those M66 swaps?
As far as I've searched across, the favorite receipt on the other side of the pond is 850 SMF, 850R PP and Sachs sd-963 disc.
Post 815528 by oblark on 2018-02-10 19:49:36
So now the AWD conversion is finished I was offered a S60R engine which had more cracks in the liners than crazy paving :)
The engine was stripped down and a shopping list of parts was drawn up, A 850 block was sent off to the machine shop to be bored out from 81mm to 83mm. Once the block was bored out it was cleaned with Mr muscle to clean all the old oil off then it was time to rebuild the block.
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The S60R head was dropped off today at the machine shop to be skimmed should be back so the engine can be finished off soon.
Post 815529 by Ric@rdo on 2018-02-11 10:50:52
Why didn't you leave the bore with 81mm?
Post 815530 by MoleT-5R on 2018-02-11 12:48:31
[QUOTE=Ric@rdo;815529]Why didn't you leave the bore with 81mm?[/QUOTE]
Could have just used the 850AWD block and just pop the S60R crank and pistons straight in afaik, but by boring out the block, Rob has started with a freshly honed set of bores, watching with interest what this setup makes power wise once finished.
Post 815531 by oblark on 2018-02-11 14:36:18
[QUOTE=Ric@rdo;815529]Why didn't you leave the bore with 81mm?[/QUOTE]
I have yet to come across a 850 block that hasn't got badly worn cylinder bores.
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;815530]Could have just used the 850AWD block and just pop the S60R crank and pistons straight in afaik, but by boring out the block, Rob has started with a freshly honed set of bores, watching with interest what this setup makes power wise once finished.[/QUOTE]
I've got a V70AWD 2.5lpt engine with 160k miles on it but the bores are more and likely worn so as you said boring out a 850 block I start off with a as good as new engine. I'm hoping to make around the 300-330bhp at the wheels which should be good for a chocolate AWD system :)
Post 815532 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-02-11 14:43:21
Mine started to cook the clutch before hurting the AWD system. Thats just with a 19T, no tuning and unknown power.
Post 815533 by MoleT-5R on 2018-02-11 16:48:13
[QUOTE=oblark;815531]I have yet to come across a 850 block that hasn't got badly worn cylinder bores.
I've got a V70AWD 2.5lpt engine with 160k miles on it but the bores are more and likely worn so as you said boring out a 850 block I start off with a as good as new engine. I'm hoping to make around the 300-330bhp at the wheels which should be good for a chocolate AWD system :)[/QUOTE]
I'm assuming that the P1 V70 AWD had the same B5254T4, as it's older sister the 850 AWD which I heard was a good engine for getting some good easy power out of and one may yet grace Gul's engine bay at some point in the future I hope.
Post 815608 by oblark on 2018-02-21 20:11:46
I picked the cylinder head from the machine shop, had to have 4 thou skimmed off of it to make it flat.
Then it was just a case of fitting the head, tighten it down, fit the cams and the cam cover.
Last job was to fit my custom VVT delete pulleys and time it up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31989[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31990[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31991[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31992[/ATTACH]
Post 815612 by MoleT-5R on 2018-02-22 05:16:01
[QUOTE=oblark;815608]I picked the cylinder head from the machine shop, had to have 4 thou skimmed off of it to make it flat.
Then it was just a case of fitting the head, tighten it down, fit the cams and the cam cover.
Last job was to fit my custom VVT delete pulleys and time it up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31989[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31990[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31991[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31992[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
I see you've returned to the original style inlet manifold Rob, does this have any gains over the ME7 one you've used in earlier in the project threads..??
Post 815619 by oblark on 2018-02-23 10:22:12
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;815612]I see you've returned to the original style inlet manifold Rob, does this have any gains over the ME7 one you've used in earlier in the project threads..??[/QUOTE]
I wasn't 100% happy with the throttle linkage when using the me7 inlet manifold and plus the intercooler to throttle body pipe kept blowing off the throttle body.
So I've gone back to more "reliable" set up :)
Post 815832 by oblark on 2018-03-18 20:14:47
So as I've gone for a S60R head it means I have to use the P2 ME7 cam belt cover which in turns opens up another load of problem to overcome :)
As the 850 aux belt tensioner won't fit due to the fact the cam cover is in the way I've had to use the P80 ME7 power steering pump, alternator and bracket.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32011[/ATTACH]
As you can't get a non A/C belt for the ME7 engine and I've removed the A/C from the 850, so I'm going to have to design and manufacture a idler pulley to sit where the A/C compressor was.
I've also found out that P80 ME7 power steering lines are like hen's teeth.
As the engine is 80% S60R I thought it'd be right to fit some blue engine covers :)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32010[/ATTACH]
Post 815834 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-03-18 21:08:43
Always the way, nothing ever goes the way you plan it :)
Post 815835 by MoleT-5R on 2018-03-19 12:29:00
I'm sure you'll find an easy way around your issues, could you find a serpentine belt from another vehicle that will give you the length you require..??
Post 815846 by oblark on 2018-03-19 20:51:41
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;815835]I'm sure you'll find an easy way around your issues, could you find a serpentine belt from another vehicle that will give you the length you require..??[/QUOTE]
The problem is the P80 pre ME7 the alternator rotates clockwise and the P80 ME7 alternator rotates anti-clockwise.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32013[/ATTACH]
The ME7 alternator has a one way clutch in the pulley, it only engages in a anti-clockwise rotation, it feel wheels clockwise.
Post 815857 by JT on 2018-03-20 17:57:44
Rob, if you can confirm belt width, number of ridges and proposed length, I might be able to help, assuming you can fit a pre me7 alternator to get over your clockwise anti-clockwise issue??
Would the belt be the same as pre me7, just a different length??
If so I can use one of mine as a sample
Post 815985 by oblark on 2018-03-31 19:51:44
Picked these up from the machine shop on Friday, the large one is for is to replace the heavy crank pulley. The other on is for the idler pulley just waiting for the bearing, shaft and the 2 brackets.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32029[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32030[/ATTACH]
I did this little upgrade today, replaced the front and rear fog light switches for a all in one 960 switch. All I had to do was remove pins 1 & 6 from the front fog light switch (need to cut the pins out of the plug) and fit them into the rear fog light switch plug.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32031[/ATTACH]
Finally got around to loading the extended load and boost threshold software on to the car. when boost pressure is below a set threshold the TCV is not pulsed and map set point calculations are not made, when the boost pressure is reached the TCV set point is activated. When you step on the loud pedal the turbo is up to speed and boosting :) you don't have to wait for the turbo to speed up and to produce boost.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32032[/ATTACH]
Post 816066 by oblark on 2018-04-08 19:35:26
Up date time :)
Over the Easter weekend and this weekend quite a few jobs were done on the car.
Firstly the old struts were changed for some nice new ones.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32038[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32039[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32040[/ATTACH]
A x70 headlight relay was fitted, the reason for swapping it from the 850 one is because if you flash the headlights before locking the car, once the car locks the headlights come on for 20 seconds.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32041[/ATTACH]
Lastly the last parts arrived for the idler wheel and I finally got hold of some ME7 power steering lines.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32042[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32043[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32044[/ATTACH]
Post 816068 by LeeT5 on 2018-04-08 21:01:37
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;813341]great work Rob, you'll have to keep the tread depths even front and back now to stop the awd wanting to kill itself, unless you where to fit a haldex unit somehow........???? Steve should soon have a spare one knocking about when he breaks that s60r....;)[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=oblark;813350]Reference tyres,
I came across this on an American Web site about the early awd and tyres.
IF there is a tire circumference difference you use the larger on front. The overrunning clutch in rear of viscous unit lets the rear driveshaft not stress the angle gear. Smaller tires up front will make the rear go slower and the overrunning clutch locks and the angle gear will get loaded and cook out the fluid and it dies.
On that I've fitted my newest to the front. But I'll keeping an eye on how all 4 wear.[/QUOTE]
P1 AWD tyre tread tolerance is 2mm MAX between front and rear axles. As long as you keep within spec, you wind the Transfer box up.
[QUOTE=oblark;813783]I had the tracking done which has made a big difference to the steering :)
I've done just over a hundred miles in it now, still getting used to the diesel box, I have to remember to change down to 2nd when pulling away from 30 mph if not the engine bogs down and won't pull away.
The AWD is fantastic :) it's great powering out of corners a lot earlier than a FWD.
Here are some photo's from Saturday's Beaulieu meet.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31791[/ATTACH]
[/QUOTE]
My only critisism is the awd badge needs to be repositioned to the right so the letter D in AWD is under the R and slightly left. Other than that, she looks fantastic and a credit to you sir! :B_thumb:
See AWD badge position....
https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/gallery/VOLVOV70R-1581_5.jpg
Post 816069 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-04-08 21:02:06
Interesting thing about the headlights, is that P1 x70 (like from 1997)?
Post 816090 by M-R-P on 2018-04-11 00:32:44
How are you getting on with the apex springs Rob?
I found them a bit hard on the p2
Post 816158 by oblark on 2018-04-22 19:32:42
[QUOTE=M-R-P;816090]How are you getting on with the apex springs Rob?
I found them a bit hard on the p2[/QUOTE]
There are softer than old springs :)
Post 816159 by oblark on 2018-04-22 19:48:59
Over the last 4 days I've been removing the 2.3ltr lump and installing the 2.5ltr engine.
It took 2 evenings after work to remove the old engine.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32070[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32071[/ATTACH]
Then on Saturday it was a case of swapping over the flywheel, clutch and gearbox. Once this was done back in it went.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32072[/ATTACH]
Once back in it's just a case of bolting on all the bits and bobs.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32073[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32074[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32075[/ATTACH]
Then today it's just a case of refitting the drive shafts and the prop, weld on the expansion tank bracket, fill it with fluids and start it,
Which it did on the first crank, just nee to load on the bin file with the 8% increase in fuelling to allow for the increase in CC
I tried to upload a video but it won't let me :(
Post 816161 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-04-22 23:11:25
Lovely job :)
What maps have you changed for the increase in CC? I'm interested as there isn't much info on the 2.5 tuning :(
Post 816234 by oblark on 2018-04-28 21:23:47
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;816161]Lovely job :)
What maps have you changed for the increase in CC? I'm interested as there isn't much info on the 2.5 tuning :([/QUOTE]
I've found out that I didn't need to increase the injectors values by 8% as I'm running the latest wideband control software.
I'm running the same 608 bin file with the 2.5 as I was running with the 2.3 but will need to modify the VE map & the TCV load set point file once I've run the engine in.
The car is running a bit rich on the 2.3 608 bin file so I'll have to back off the injector values a bit.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32083[/ATTACH]
Post 816235 by MoleT-5R on 2018-04-28 23:24:47
[QUOTE=oblark;816234]I've found out that I didn't need to increase the injectors values by 8% as I'm running the latest wideband control software.
I'm running the same 608 bin file with the 2.5 as I was running with the 2.3 but will need to modify the VE map & the TCV load set point file once I've run the engine in.
The car is running a bit rich on the 2.3 608 bin file so I'll have to back off the injector values a bit.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32083[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
nice work Rob, I'm looking forward to getting to this stage with my next engine.
Post 816243 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-04-29 16:06:38
[QUOTE=oblark;816234]I've found out that I didn't need to increase the injectors values by 8% as I'm running the latest wideband control software.
I'm running the same 608 bin file with the 2.5 as I was running with the 2.3 but will need to modify the VE map & the TCV load set point file once I've run the engine in.
The car is running a bit rich on the 2.3 608 bin file so I'll have to back off the injector values a bit.
[/QUOTE]
Ah ok, I thought you meant increase the values due to the increase in engine size CC :)
Post 816594 by oblark on 2018-06-17 19:10:55
Slowly running the 2.5ltr engine in and trying to dial the injectors in.
After raising/lowering the injector constant and dead times it was still running rich. So it was back to basics.
I disabled the STFT and the lambda threshold tables. After a bit of fine tuning of the injector dead times I got the idle AFR's just about spot on.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32123[/ATTACH]
Now it was time to go for a drive to set the injector constant, so at a steady 60mph in 5th I adjusted the injector constant values.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32124[/ATTACH]
So with both the dead times and constant set the STFT was set back to +/- 25 and the lambda threshold was set to 2ms (meaning any load greater than 2ms the lambda does not adjust the AFR)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32125[/ATTACH]
With the STFT and lambda activated the idle AFR has gone up, but still within limits.
During my drive setting up the injectors I had pull away a bit quickly thanks to some elderly driver who doesn't understand who has right of way on a roundabout.
Ooopps, 7.40 psi of boost at 20mph.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32126[/ATTACH]
Post 816595 by G.Laing on 2018-06-17 21:46:58
away to start a very similar project. I have a 850 engine and a v70r 2004 engine that I might split to build one engine . hopefully use a holset hx35 turbo with custom tubular manifold .
Post 816776 by oblark on 2018-07-08 20:48:24
The AFR's have settled down now I been putting miles on the engine.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32148[/ATTACH]
The old red mist came over me when a 08 ST focus pulled up behind me at the lights, didn't give it any welly at first but he tried to stay with me going around the roundabout but he couldn't :) when on the straight I did give it some welly until I realised I was at a bar of boost so I eased off and he shot passed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32149[/ATTACH]
3600 rpm at 39% throttle in 3rd gear with 14 psi of boost, if I had given full beans he wouldn't of known what hit him :)
Post 817469 by oblark on 2018-09-30 20:41:22
Finally I've run the engine :) Had a small problem with the AFR's at 80mph it started running lean so the injector basic adjustment was increased.
AFR's at 60 mph
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32215[/ATTACH]
AFR's at 80 mph
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32216[/ATTACH]
Time to have some fun winding the boost up or that's what I thought.
Whilst doing a boost run at 3600 rpm and boosting at 13.4 psi the engine cut out, just like it had boost cut.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32217[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32218[/ATTACH]
Everything from the data log looks OK apart from the TCV target load set point. I'm logging 10.46 whilst the bin target set point is 6.42.
So I've disabled the boost control part of the bin while I wait for Maarten to get back to me to confirm whether the problem is a bin or a setup fault.
Post 817474 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-09-30 23:26:58
Hmm, that is indeed odd.
Fingers crossed it is something easy to rectify
I've got to get on with my tuning. Currently trying to get the boost control dialled in.
Post 817641 by oblark on 2018-10-27 21:28:17
Still try to get to the bottom of my boost cut, After doing some research I've raised the BTC (boost threshold control) from 0.13 to 0.54 as recommended by a guy in the states who is also running the BTC software.
When the BTC was set to 0.13 the logged TCV was greater than TCV duty cycle table and I think the ECU was just protecting it's self.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32225[/ATTACH]
With the BTC at 0.54 I'm only getting 5-6 psi of boost at 65%+ throttle BUT I've noticed the TCV duty cycle logged was very close to the TCV duty cycle set point, so I've increased the values from 40% throttle and 3000rpm up by 2 so hopefully this will increase my boost. I see me increasing the TCV duty cycle set point up to 20ms+
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32226[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32227[/ATTACH]
Post 817642 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-10-27 23:23:57
Have they got back to you regarding this issue? As I understand it this seems to be a problem with the modified boost control routine?
Post 817643 by oblark on 2018-10-28 07:56:13
The guy who did the boost control software isn't replying to my emails it looks like venderbreock and his father Piet have disappeared off of the face of the earth.
I'm hoping my problem is just a case of adjusting the set points in the map, I no of someone else who had problems with venderbreocks software and has had to go back to his old set up.
Post 817648 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-10-28 11:37:12
That's a shame considering you paid for the software. I was a bit disappointed when they announced that there would be a pricing scheme for the mods.
How are you finding the mods compared to the factory control routines?
Post 817679 by oblark on 2018-11-04 19:13:52
The boost problems continues ...........
I increased the TCV set points from 10 to 12 and when logging a run I got 12 and 5 psi of boost :wallbash:
Did some poking around in a couple of bin files with different XDF files I noticed the conversion fact in the BTC threshold as way out. The TCV is meeting its set points but as the conversion fact was out it looks like the ECU wouldn't let the turbo produce boost until it got to 3.51 bar :eye-poppi
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32229[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32230[/ATTACH]
Hopefully that was the problem but I'll find next weekend.
Post 817680 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-11-04 22:47:54
Fingers crossed that has fixed the issue!
Crazy how one equation can cause such problems.
Post 817846 by oblark on 2018-12-08 18:33:30
Well since the last up date I had the dreaded MOT to take of and lucky enough the old girl passed, it even passed the emissions :)
I entered the conversion factor that I was sure was the right one and bingo, I had boost, or I did until at full boost the engine cut out and refused to start at the side of the motorway, lucky enough I carry a spare ostrich and the car started with it. Did what I needed to do and went home. I put the original ostrich back in and when turning the ignition on the radiator fan kicked in but the engine wouldn't start, reloaded the bin file that was on the ostrich and it fired up and ran fine.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32243[/ATTACH]
I remember some saying that the TCV load set point had to be altered when using the 608 bin file on a 2.5ltr and I've noticed that my logged values are way out from the ones in the bin file. So I've raised the values in the lower throttle positions.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32244[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32245[/ATTACH]
When we had some colder weather The old girl would run VERY rich when first firing up and would then run fine after 5 minutes. So I've got some new warm up tables which will help it run better on start up, just need some cold weather.
Post 817849 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-08 22:36:30
I had that issue before where the fan and some other ancillaries run when the ignition is turned on. It turned out to be a problem with the eprom chip connections in it's socket.
So with yours having the ostrich there may have been an issue with the ostrich. Wonder if it's to do with the battery on the ostrich board?
Post 817855 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-09 22:36:15
Just had a look through a 2.5 binary and the acceleration enrichment and warmup maps are quite different to the 2.3 binary.
The acceleration is a fair bit lower
Post 817857 by oblark on 2018-12-10 12:40:22
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;817855]Just had a look through a 2.5 binary and the acceleration enrichment and warmup maps are quite different to the 2.3 binary.
The acceleration is a fair bit lower[/QUOTE]
Are you able to pm a 2.5 bin file ?
Thanks.
Post 817859 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-11 10:48:57
Here ya go mate, its the 609 binary (my current ecu is a 609 taken from a V70 AWD 2.5):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwnf0k1vgl4ifpc/0261204609_1037359880_1.BIN?dl=0
The maps are in a different location to the 608 binary.
1st acceleration enrichment - CDC6
2nd acceleration enrichment - CE46
afterstart enrichment - D7D6
To be honest there are loads of different maps (not just fuelling) between the 2.3 and the 2.5. I'm looking at converting the 609 binary to run the logging and streaming as I'm getting more uncertain about running the 608 on the 2.5.
Post 817862 by oblark on 2018-12-11 19:59:12
Thanks for the 609 bin file, I've had a look at the acceleration enrichment DK and K+L from your 609 bin and when compared to my 608 bin file they are the same. But the afterstart enrichment is way different, not sure if I'm using the right XDF file.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32249[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32250[/ATTACH]
Post 817864 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-11 23:27:29
Is that after you've changed the values in you acceleration enrichment tables?
It looks like the wrong address for the afterstart enrichment, should be D7D6 according to the damos and WinOLS
Post 817865 by oblark on 2018-12-12 20:00:14
I didn't get around to lowering any of the acceleration enrichment tables as the weather warmed up.
Here are the 2.3 & 2.5 acceleration enrichment tables as I see them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32251[/ATTACH]
As for the Afterstart enrichment I think I've got it right now.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32252[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32253[/ATTACH]
Post 817866 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-13 00:02:01
I've got some different values for the 2.5 (609 binary and my 850 awd (305) binary) acceleration enrichment. *****Note the different rpm and temp ranges (I've checked they are right)
Yeah that's the right afterstart enrichment address. Conversion formula for afterstart enrichment is X*0.03125. Here are the 608 and 609 compared. Again note the different temp range.
But then the deceleration maps are different and the wall film maps and so on too :(
Post 817867 by oblark on 2018-12-13 19:28:19
I've got different acceleration enrichment for K&L and DK in the 609 bin. But at last my afterstart enrichment matches yours :)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32254[/ATTACH]
What conversion factor are have you got for the acceleration enrichment ?
Post 817868 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-13 22:53:19
K&L - X*0.0625 (1:16)
DK - X*0.125 (1:8)
I've checked the two acceleration enrichment maps against my awd 305 binary and a later 765 (also 2.5) binary and they are all the same, so looks like they didn't update/optimise them further
Post 817869 by MoleT-5R on 2018-12-14 08:47:11
Interesting stuff, it just seems a mile over my head at present....lol....keep up the good work guys
Post 817871 by kmb on 2018-12-14 10:51:13
Over my head too, but I like to read and glean a small insight :)
Post 817873 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-14 14:59:38
Read the early posts in the tuners rejoice thread over on Volvospeed, lots of assembly language and info to get lost in :)
Post 817877 by oblark on 2018-12-14 20:40:23
Finally my 609 bin acceleration enrichment match yours :) I had DK and K+L hex addresses the wrong way around.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32255[/ATTACH]
As the 609 K+L table has lower values I can see if the 608 K+L was set to the 609 values it would help the rich idling at start up as Aaron said I need to lower the acceleration enrichment but the 609 DK values are higher than the 608 values which I thought would make it run even richer.
Do you think it would work if the complete 609 K+L table including the rpm and temps in the 608 bin file ?
Can you have a look in the 608 bin for hex address CFA4 and find out what the conversion factor is ?
Post 817879 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-14 22:18:22
Cool :) I don't know what the DK and K+L abbreviations actually mean (yet) but I intend to run those maps on mine to see if it makes a difference to these cold morning starts. Also going to change CE06 (8x8 K+L deceleration X*0.0625) and CE86 (8x8 DK deceleration X*0.125). I had an issue with mine the other day flashing the MIL whilst decelerating in gear with foot off throttle (load was approx 1)
Conversion factor for CFA4 and CFE6 (both 8x8 'wall film' maps I think) is X*0.003906. Again the RPM and temp ranges are the same as the other 609 8x8 maps.
Ah found and explanation of the DK and K+L:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2424959
Post 817882 by oblark on 2018-12-15 20:06:14
After reading Boxman's article I think altering the acceleration enrichment is not the answer to the rich idling in cold temps.
"If I turned off DK entirely, upon slamming the throttle, AFR would blip lean followed by rich before settling. Turn DK up, and this initial lean blip will turn rich. Increasing the values, of course, meant richer."
I think lowering the afterstart enrichment is the answer but I'm in two minds about that.
At zero degrees the 608 bin is - 2.125 and the 609 bin is - 3.125
To me the 608 bin is leaner as the value is closer to zero.
CFA4 is another acceleration enrichment table but I'm unsure what CFE6 is.
On another note had a terrible day, I think the wideband sensor has died, the car starts ok but as it warms up the AFR's climb from 13.4 to 18+ and you can hear the fact it's running lean in the exhaust note. Lucky I had my laptop with me so I loaded a map with the wideband turned off to get me back home ( exhaust note as per normal ). On the way home in the poring rain the car seamed to be "loose" and the back and make a banging noise, got home to find I had flat. So the car is going to get a early Christmas present of 2 new rear tyre.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32256[/ATTACH]
Post 817885 by MoleT-5R on 2018-12-16 09:41:44
Would the dying wideband sensor have added to afr issues, as you may not have had accurate data to base your changes upon...?
P.s. sorry to see the tyre died, bet you covered a fair distance before you found it flat.
Post 817886 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-16 15:49:11
[QUOTE=oblark;817882]After reading Boxman's article I think altering the acceleration enrichment is not the answer to the rich idling in cold temps.
"If I turned off DK entirely, upon slamming the throttle, AFR would blip lean followed by rich before settling. Turn DK up, and this initial lean blip will turn rich. Increasing the values, of course, meant richer."
I think lowering the afterstart enrichment is the answer but I'm in two minds about that.
At zero degrees the 608 bin is - 2.125 and the 609 bin is - 3.125
To me the 608 bin is leaner as the value is closer to zero.
CFA4 is another acceleration enrichment table but I'm unsure what CFE6 is.
[/QUOTE]
Yeah thats right lower is leaner. It seems the DK is an instant sort of enrichment map to stop it going lean then rich then lean when you accelerate. Then the K+L does the longer term stuff from what he's saying. Though he says he slammed the throttle so there may be a limit from where these maps are used which means they won't have as much impact.
I'm gonna try it, see if it makes any difference.
Sorry, I meant CFA4 and CFE4 (not CFE6 sorry) are both 'wall film' maps in the 608 (CEC6 and CF06 in the 609 binary) all 8x8 maps
CFA4 is 'wall film' map for acceleration enrichment and CFE4 is 'wall film' map for deceleration enrichment. Again these are quite different in the 609
Post 817889 by oblark on 2018-12-16 20:29:17
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;817885]Would the dying wideband sensor have added to afr issues, as you may not have had accurate data to base your changes upon...?
P.s. sorry to see the tyre died, bet you covered a fair distance before you found it flat.[/QUOTE]
After loading a few different bin files I came to the conclusion it was the AEM gauge/controller that was faulty. To change the gauge/controller I ended up changing the loom to the sensor and the sensor. Time will tell if the old gauge was giving me inaccurate AFR data readings.
The tyre was about 6 years old and done 12-15k miles. The reason for the flat was 2 splits and a handful of bulges in the inner sidewall.
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;817886]Yeah thats right lower is leaner. It seems the DK is an instant sort of enrichment map to stop it going lean then rich then lean when you accelerate. Then the K+L does the longer term stuff from what he's saying. Though he says he slammed the throttle so there may be a limit from where these maps are used which means they won't have as much impact.
I'm gonna try it, see if it makes any difference.[/QUOTE]
I'll try the afterstart enrichment and report back if you want to report back on what effects the acceleration enrichment has on start up.
Does raising the deacceleration table make it run rich on deacceleration ? ( just wondering if that would make it pop and bang on deacceleration )
Post 817891 by Dangerous Dave on 2018-12-16 23:06:29
[QUOTE=oblark;817889]After loading a few different bin files I came to the conclusion it was the AEM gauge/controller that was faulty. To change the gauge/controller I ended up changing the loom to the sensor and the sensor. Time will tell if the old gauge was giving me inaccurate AFR data readings.
The tyre was about 6 years old and done 12-15k miles. The reason for the flat was 2 splits and a handful of bulges in the inner sidewall.
I'll try the afterstart enrichment and report back if you want to report back on what effects the acceleration enrichment has on start up.
Does raising the deacceleration table make it run rich on deacceleration ? ( just wondering if that would make it pop and bang on deacceleration )[/QUOTE]
Thats the problem with aftermarket addons :)
Yeah I'll give it a try see what happens. Will be tomorrow night hopefully (though its just a case of plugging the laptop in, love the ostrich :) )
Hmm pops and bangs :D On a side note, someone did do an anti-lag mod for the 608 on the VS thread.....
Post 817918 by oblark on 2018-12-29 21:33:42
I experimented today with the values in the Afterstart enrichment table, what I have found is by lowering the values it introduced a what felt like a misfire but was actually the car suddenly going rich.
The top graph is with the new lower afterstart enrichment values and the bottom one is with the original values, both data logs were on the same bit road within a hour of each other.
[COLOR="#0000FF"]Blue is requested AFR[/COLOR]
[COLOR="#FF0000"]Red is logged AFR[/COLOR]
[COLOR="#008000"]Green is boost[/COLOR]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32257[/ATTACH]
TCV load setpoint table is getting interesting, I'm going to increasing the Boost threshold table in the lower rev range to stop it boosting at the lower rev/throttle angles.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32258[/ATTACH]
Post 817931 by oblark on 2019-01-02 20:44:54
So I had some spare time so I increased the boost threshold at 1770rpm to 1.01 bar and then feathered it down to 0.54 bar at 3000rpm.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32259[/ATTACH]
As you can see as the rpm increases the boost is capped until 2700rpm then when the rpm is above 3000rpm the boost is comes in one big lump :) will have to play around with the boost threshold to smooth out how the boost comes in.
Post 817956 by oblark on 2019-01-07 20:07:10
I have boost well sort of, if I bring the boost in slowly it runs very rich but if I bring the boost in quickly it run ok.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32272[/ATTACH]
So I'm going to try the 609 bin fuel map. Firstly I had to convert the fuel map from 8.01ms to 12.24ms. Funny enough the converted 609 fuel map is very close to the AFR values that I've data logged.
608 fuel map.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32273[/ATTACH]
609 fuel map.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32274[/ATTACH]
Post 817958 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-01-07 22:53:42
Thats odd with the boost
I was comparing the 609 enrichment maps and wall film maps and they are so completely different to the 608 I can't understand why. Some are higher than the 608 in some places and lower in others.
I did try the 609 binary for a while and it seemed to use more fuel but was smoother. Since switching back to the 608 I haven't had any issues with it 'chugging'/misfiring for a second when warming up (running standard 608 enrichment/warmup maps)
Post 817981 by oblark on 2019-01-13 11:12:02
Loaded the 609 bin fuel map on the car during the week, the first time driving the car it ran rich on idle and driving (13.9) after a 10 minute drive the car was turned off and left for 30 minutes. Once started up it idled and ran as it should (14.9) and it boosted ok as well with no misfiring.
Managed to get 2 good boost pulls, the first was in 4th and was for nearly a minute and the second was in 5th and not nearly as long (ran out of road)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32275[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32276[/ATTACH]
I'm not sure why when it's boosting the logged AFR is so different to the requested. Whether it's something to do with the WOT enrichment ?
I've reduced the acceleration enrichment table DK by 5% and K+L by 10% to see if this reduces the big swing in the AFR when changing gear.
And only if this was true reading :)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32277[/ATTACH]
Post 818006 by oblark on 2019-01-20 19:29:11
I did some 3rd gear pulls yesterday and found it has a little hiccup when coming on boost.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32290[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32291[/ATTACH]
I think it's down to the BTC table as I've set it to high in the lower rev range so I've reduced it and will try later this week.
On one of the runs I noticed that I'm up to 90% duty cycle on the green injectors so it's time to modify the spare inlet manifold to take the 550cc injectors.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32292[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32293[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32294[/ATTACH]
Post 818009 by MoleT-5R on 2019-01-21 06:42:42
is there much modification needed to fit the 550's Rob ?
Post 818025 by oblark on 2019-01-26 20:29:30
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;818009]is there much modification needed to fit the 550's Rob ?[/QUOTE]
All I had to do was to file 2mm off of the two posts that the injector rail bolts too.
Had a bit of a funny week with the car, after it had been running spot on with the injectors it suddenly started running rich, with a bit of tweaking got it running spot again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32295[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32296[/ATTACH]
Once I got it running right I thought have ago at sorting out the blipping rich/lean running when changing gear. The values in the Acceleration tables DK and K+L were reduced. The blipping lean has been reduced but it's still blipping rich so I'll have to lower the DK table a bit more.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32298[/ATTACH]
Post 818038 by MoleT-5R on 2019-02-01 11:03:27
[QUOTE=oblark;818025]All I had to do was to file 2mm off of the two posts that the injector rail bolts too.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks Rob, that's handy to know for when I require some fitting in the future.
Post 818259 by oblark on 2019-03-11 20:40:15
Up date time
A few weeks ago the old girl developed a miss fire when under load so some OEM spark plugs were purchased from FRF. The old plugs looked OK, a nice dirty white electrodes, but once fitted and driven under load it missed fired even worse than before.
I was running P1 ME7 coil packs which looked a bit worse for wear on the ends where the spark plugs connect. I've got some P2 ME7 coil packs but the electrical connectors are different between the P1 and P2 coil packs (P2 coil packs are also shorter than p1 coil packs) some a new wiring loom was made up for the P2 coil packs. Once fitted went out for a spin and the miss fire had gone.
With the miss fire sorted it was time to fit the freshly powder coated inlet manifold with the 550cc injectors, with the manifold fitted it was time to map the ecu for the new injectors. That's where the fun started, once the engine was warm it started to run lean @ 17+ AFR, the more fuel I added made no different. The only way I could get it to run anywhere near 14.9 AFR was to increase the minimum injector time from 0.24ms to 0.48ms but this is not the right way to do it, so after a few hours of trying to get it to run right I called it a day and left it over night with the ecu pulled out of the car. So after work today I had another play with it, I went back to the basic settings and it fired up and ran rich @12.2 AFR so I started lowering the dead times by 0.0195 at 13-14v this brought the AFR up a bit but I had to lower the injector basic factor which brought the AFR up to 14.7 which was good enough so the lambda threshold was enabled and it ran ok with the AFR fluctuating from 14.7 to 15.2. Just need to take it for a spin to see how it run under load.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32316[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32317[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32318[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32319[/ATTACH]
Initial start up today.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32320[/ATTACH]
Idling with the lambda threshold set to zero
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32321[/ATTACH]
Idling with the lambda threshold set to 2.02ms
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32322[/ATTACH]
Post 818261 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-03-11 22:42:25
There always seems to be several different values banded around for TEMIN for various injectors, I'm getting confused with the values for the greens. One bosch spec sheet says 0.7 another says 1.13.
Post 818262 by oblark on 2019-03-12 02:06:24
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;818261]There always seems to be several different values banded around for TEMIN for various injectors, I'm getting confused with the values for the greens. One bosch spec sheet says 0.7 another says 1.13.[/QUOTE]
I was running my greens with a TEMIN value of 0.24 for years with no problems.
Post 818267 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-03-12 16:35:00
[QUOTE=oblark;818262]I was running my greens with a TEMIN value of 0.24 for years with no problems.[/QUOTE]
I'll give it a go at that.
My original value was the same as the red and white injectors from the factory settings at 0.34ms.
I found another value of 0.48. Though I think it doesn't really matter too much as long as the other parameters are fine tuned and the injector is stable at that pulse width.
Cheers mate :)
Post 818437 by oblark on 2019-04-14 20:37:17
Ever since I fitted the Bosch 550cc injectors I've had a problem. Straight out of the box they ran lean at idle regardless of my increasing the injector dead times, so I pulled the ECU over night to reset it and this sorted the problem for the last few weeks but last weekend it started idling lean with a STFT of +20. I tried increasing the injector dead time but still ran lean so I've refitted the greens and it idled spot on, it looks like the 550cc injectors could be faulty.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32339[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32340[/ATTACH]
After over 10 years of ownership I thought it was about time I sorted out the 850's heating as I'm fed up with only having air coming out of the dash vents, I found 1 damper motor had lost it limits and the floor damper motor had broken it's plastic drive shaft which is a common fault.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32341[/ATTACH]
I'll just leave this here :wiggle: (it's a P80 FWD rear shock mounted in a P80 AWD) also The nivomat bottom bush is removable which is handy as I'm looking at using another car manufactures rear shocks :wink:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32343[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32342[/ATTACH]
Post 818703 by oblark on 2019-06-15 16:26:49
I've been chasing what I thought was a misfire when coming on boost, I've tried 2 sets of OEM plugs which I've gapped them from 20-30 thou and a new set of OEM coil packs which didn't cure the problem. Then I thought it was my driving style so I've tried driving like miss daisy to driving it like I've stolen it still with no luck.
So I dug out the m4.4 ecu that I had in the 240 converted to the same COP plug and loaded the bin file I sent you on a spare ostrich and it started and ran ok, to the point the misfire when coming on boost disappeared :)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32409[/ATTACH]
The 2 black circles are the misfire when coming on boost.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32410[/ATTACH]
Now it goes like stabbed rat time to start having fun :)
Also managed to get hold of SC-805 radio, nice little upgrade to the sound system.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32411[/ATTACH]
Post 818704 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-06-15 22:00:03
Wierd. Something dodgy somewhere then.
Interior is looking lovely mate :)
Post 818722 by oblark on 2019-06-29 20:45:32
I've been doing some data logging at WOT with 18.5 psi of boost and it looks like I'm maxing my VXR's out already.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32412[/ATTACH]
Also I'm at my max load as well. I don't want to go back to the extended load/boost control bin file. I've had a look at the hex offset for the load upper and lower banks in the bin file I'm using and for the extended load bin file and I've noticed some parts of the hex address is different.
I can find the hex address for major load (0xF8CF) and major load upper bank (0x1F8CF) in both bin files, I've found the beginning of the each hex address but I can't find the end.
I'm hoping it is just a case copying and pasting the 2 hex addresses from the extended load into my current bin so I can increase the load from 12.24 to 24.48 but knowing my luck it's not as easy as that.
Post 818723 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-06-30 09:42:51
I'm running about 80% on my VXR injectors.
As you say, it's probably not as easy as that. I'd guess you'd have to change the load calculation formula.
Post 818793 by Andzey on 2019-07-20 07:25:31
What fuel pressure you were running those green injectors when they ran out of the capacity? Static 3.5 bars, or varying above manifold pressure?
Post 819761 by oblark on 2020-04-04 19:12:10
It's been a while since I've updated this thread, I've taken up running and have been busy training, over the last year I've completed 2 half marathons and 6 10k's. But due to the Covid-19 out break all races have been either cancelled or postponed so I've been tweaking the map to solve a knock shortly after start up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32649[/ATTACH]
To solve this problem I've increased the mixture in the warm up tables which sorted the problem.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32650[/ATTACH]
Once warmed up and at full boost all knock had gone, just got a bit of clutch at full boost.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32651[/ATTACH]
Post 819762 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-04 22:17:20
Nice :D The AWD system can put extra stress on the clutch, I found that with mine :( Fortunately I fitted the self adjusting clutch and it sorted itself and I dropped the tune a bit to save it.
What MPG are you getting? I'm trying to tune mine to be less thirsty at cruise but it's not happening.
I'm hoping during some of this free time I'll get to do some tuning but got other parts to fix first (rear brake caliper stuck, front wishbone, track rod end and so on)
Post 819765 by Ric@rdo on 2020-04-07 01:31:18
I saw on your signature that you are running Brembo calipers with S60R brake discs. Did you post any photos of that here? I have a friend doing that at the moment - Brembo but with 350mm disks and he's having issues fitting them on the Midir wheels (18")
Post 819766 by stribo on 2020-04-08 17:45:37
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819762]Nice :D The AWD system can put extra stress on the clutch, I found that with mine :( Fortunately I fitted the self adjusting clutch and it sorted itself and I dropped the tune a bit to save it.
What MPG are you getting? I'm trying to tune mine to be less thirsty at cruise but it's not happening.
I'm hoping during some of this free time I'll get to do some tuning but got other parts to fix first (rear brake caliper stuck, front wishbone, track rod end and so on)[/QUOTE]
I thought that the operation of hydraulic clutches made them all self adjusting.
Post 819767 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-09 01:42:19
[QUOTE=stribo;819766]I thought that the operation of hydraulic clutches made them all self adjusting.[/QUOTE]
Sorry bud I meant the actual clutch plate is self adjusting. It contains an adjusting ring which compensates for wear in the friction plate.
Post 820131 by oblark on 2020-07-09 20:43:51
Up date time.
I thought it was about time I upgraded the fuel pump as the VXR injectors at 3.8 bar was starting to push the oem fuel pump to it's limit. So I went for a ASNU 340lph fuel pump, the reason I went for this make of pump as there is so many Walbro copies on the market I didn't want to take any chances.
Had to remove the exhaust, prop, viscous coupling and the wishbone tie rods just to lower the fuel tank down enough to remove the pump, all in all not a bad job just took all day. Once the fuel pump had been changed the 650cc injectors where fitted but as I'm running at 3.8 bar the injectors will run at 720cc. Loaded the figures for the injectors from Dangerous Dave into tunerpro, Looks like I've got the settings pretty close might need a little bit of adjusting.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32808[/ATTACH]
720cc injectors at idle
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32809[/ATTACH]
720cc injectors at 50mph
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32810[/ATTACH]
Post 820133 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-07-09 21:48:45
Nice one bud, glad those figures are close :)
Post 820151 by oblark on 2020-07-18 21:41:35
For the last few months I keep getting the same fault code of EFI-355 (mass air flow senso fault) I've fitted secondhand,aftermarket and even OEM sensors but after a day or two the MIL light comes back on.
A big thanks to Dangerous Dave for the hex addresses hopefully I've sorted the problem.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32811[/ATTACH]
Whilst doing a steady 60mph up hill the MIL light came on, lucky enough I was data logging the run. The MIL light came on roughly where I've circled on the above picture. I was above the maximum the RPM for MAF threshold but still in the airflow threshold so I've lowered the threshold for airflow from 403kg/hr to 210kg/hr so hopefully that will sort the problem.
Post 820152 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-07-18 23:41:59
Some good investigation going on there mate.
I wonder if the rpm and the air flow min/max are related or separate.
Post 820279 by oblark on 2020-08-21 21:12:36
I've had to put the maf problem on the back burner as I've had a more pressing problem.
The old car started to splutter when the manifold pressure went from vacuum to pressure. At first I thought it was the fuel pump but that checked out ok, then I thought it was the fuel pressure and that checked out ok. So I swapped out the 720cc injectors and fitted the VXR injectors along with the ostrich which has a VXR bin file. Went for test drive and no spluttering so it looks like the 720cc injectors need an overhaul.
Post 820281 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-08-22 12:22:40
Hmm interesting. Hopefully a clean will sort it. Let us know how it goes.
Post 820296 by oblark on 2020-08-27 13:01:14
Had a week off so I thought it was about time I fixed some of the long term problems eg no air being blown on the windscreen. So out came the dash followed by the heater unit, the fault was found to be a very corroded air con evaporator (it had been in the car for the last 24 years) the holes for the evaporator pipes were blocked off with some industrial duct tape. Now it blows air on the windscreen like a hurricane.
Also while the dash was out the rats nest of wiring was sorted out, the number of wires either not used or running from one side of the car to the other was unreal (all my doing) Now the passengers electric seat is wired into the ancillary circuit (yellow/purple wire) from the ignition switch with a line fuse and the wideband is wired into position 2/start circuit (yellow/blue wire) also through a inline fuse.
The other job was to swap over the steering column as sometimes when starting the car nothing happens when you go to start it. Also wired in a 12v timer and switch into the lambda warning light :wink:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32814[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32815[/ATTACH]
Post 820298 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-08-27 13:50:40
I can only guess at why you'd want a timer on the lambda light.....
Post 820386 by oblark on 2020-09-13 20:40:36
I've been running the VXR bin file for a couple of weeks and all is running fine apart from the fact I'd forgot to change the MAF fault threshold values, This was a bit of blessing as the MIL light came on and I could test the MIL switch.
The MIL light came on as I lifted to change from 4th to 5th.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32839[/ATTACH]
Also got around to changing the headlining as it was starting to come away from the backing alone the front by the windscreen. It wasn't to bad getting the headlining out it was just getting the foam off of the backing took a bit of time but got it all off with a wire brush, then applied plenty of glue and stuck on the new fake suede foam backed headlining.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32840[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32841[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32842[/ATTACH]
The finished headlining.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32843[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32844[/ATTACH]
Post 820388 by MoleT-5R on 2020-09-14 10:47:15
[QUOTE=oblark;820386]I've been running the VXR bin file for a couple of weeks and all is running fine apart from the fact I'd forgot to change the MAF fault threshold values, This was a bit of blessing as the MIL light came on and I could test the MIL switch.
The MIL light came on as I lifted to change from 4th to 5th.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32839[/ATTACH]
Also got around to changing the headlining as it was starting to come away from the backing alone the front by the windscreen. It wasn't to bad getting the headlining out it was just getting the foam off of the backing took a bit of time but got it all off with a wire brush, then applied plenty of glue and stuck on the new fake suede foam backed headlining.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32840[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32841[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32842[/ATTACH]
The finished headlining.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32843[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32844[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
Headlining looks lush Rob, bit easier to get in and out of an estate than a Saloon, I've my Gul's to do soon
Post 820389 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-09-14 13:10:26
How on earth does the lining come out of the saloon?
It was bad enough trying to get the one out of my estate through the boot.
Post 820394 by MoleT-5R on 2020-09-14 20:33:25
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;820389]How on earth does the lining come out of the saloon?
It was bad enough trying to get the one out of my estate through the boot.[/QUOTE]
The same, through the boot, done it once in the donor saloon, not fun but it's the only way I could see.....lol
Post 820675 by oblark on 2020-11-22 20:08:50
Update time.
Had a MOT last week and passed with 2 minor defects, 2 driveshaft CV boots split which is a PITA as they are only 2 years old and covered 1500 miles.
As just about everything has be upgraded I thought it was about time to upgrade the suspension with some BC coilovers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32930[/ATTACH]
As nice as there look in the box it was about time I fitted them. I started with the rears and I'm glad I did As they were a PITA to set up as there is no room to adjust the shocks. The fronts went in in a matter of minutes compared to the rears and were easy to adjust. The only thing I'd say say is you will need a deep 17mm ring spanner ro do the top shock nut up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32931[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32932[/ATTACH]
I'm still getting the MIL light come on with the same MAF fault code, I've been setting the detection values lower and lower. As the fault code keeps coming in when I change gear from 4th to 5th under load so I've now lowered the detection values to below idle.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32933[/ATTACH]
Post 820680 by MoleT-5R on 2020-11-23 19:27:27
[QUOTE=oblark;820675]Update time.
Had a MOT last week and passed with 2 minor defects, 2 driveshaft CV boots split which is a PITA as they are only 2 years old and covered 1500 miles.
As just about everything has be upgraded I thought it was about time to upgrade the suspension with some BC coilovers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32930[/ATTACH]
As nice as there look in the box it was about time I fitted them. I started with the rears and I'm glad I did As they were a PITA to set up as there is no room to adjust the shocks. The fronts went in in a matter of minutes compared to the rears and were easy to adjust. The only thing I'd say say is you will need a deep 17mm ring spanner ro do the top shock nut up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32931[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32932[/ATTACH]
I'm still getting the MIL light come on with the same MAF fault code, I've been setting the detection values lower and lower. As the fault code keeps coming in when I change gear from 4th to 5th under load so I've now lowered the detection values to below idle.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32933[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
Nice bit of kit you've got yourself for Christmas there Rob, I assume as yours is AWD, that these will fit the P1 V70R AWD phase 2 and 3
Post 820696 by oblark on 2020-11-28 18:16:51
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;820680]Nice bit of kit you've got yourself for Christmas there Rob, I assume as yours is AWD, that these will fit the P1 V70R AWD phase 2 and 3[/QUOTE]
The kit is listed to fit V70/S70 AWD from 98 - 00
I've put some miles on the bc coilovers and I can report back that the ride is a great improvement over old suspension.
The front have just been fitted and have had the ride height set the dampening is as it was set in the factory.
The rear suspension in 100% improvement over knackered nivomats with standard springs. The only thing is the ride height is 3/4" difference from one side to the other. The difference is in suspension when there is no weight on hubs. Hopefully it's just a case of loosening off the bushes and resetting them as the bolts through the bushes are on a splindes.
Post 820767 by Morgan Harris on 2020-12-28 02:59:47
Cool pictures and definitely a great project. How is it going?
Post 821003 by oblark on 2021-02-08 20:02:39
Haven't done much to old girl since the last update. I've always put Esso super plus 97 and she's ran OK on it but now Esso have gone to super plus 99 she runs like a trooper the little bit of knock I had at high boost has gone.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32971[/ATTACH]
Light blue - knock
Green - boost
Picked up a 3" exhaust flap cheap off of eBay only to find the housing was 3" but the flap was 2.5". So I ordered some 1.5mm stainless sheet, machined up a mandrel out of a piece of aluminum and made a 3" flap. All works ok but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it or where to mount it on the exhaust system.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32972[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32973[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32970[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32974[/ATTACH]
Post 821004 by oblark on 2021-02-08 20:08:55
Haven't done much to old girl since the last update. I've always put Esso super plus 97 and she's ran OK on it but now Esso have gone to super plus 99 she runs like a trooper the little bit of knock I had at high boost has gone.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32975[/ATTACH]
Light blue - knock
Green - boost
Picked up a 3" exhaust flap cheap off of eBay only to find the housing was 3" but the flap was 2.5". So I ordered some 1.5mm stainless sheet, machined up a mandrel out of a piece of aluminum and made a 3" flap. All works ok but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it or where to mount it on the exhaust system.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32976[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32977[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32978[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32979[/ATTACH]
Post 821060 by oblark on 2021-02-28 19:52:54
After having a flat battery I've noticed a slight hesitation when driving at around 30 mph the hesitation goes if you drive it like you stole it. I recorded a run to the supermarket this Saturday and managed to get the hesitation recorded.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32984[/ATTACH]
I've looked at the data and I'm pretty sure the MAF voltage is spiking which causing the ECU to think the engine is drawing in more air so it increases the fueling. I checked the two spare MAF sensors and one was way out on the pin resistance and the other was closer to the one fitted to the car, so that one got fitted and I went for a drive trying to keep to 30 mph. It looks like its cured the problem, fingers crossed.
The two MAF sensors have complete different Bosch number on them so not sure which one is for a 850.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32985[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32986[/ATTACH]
Post 821061 by Moonpiemagic on 2021-03-01 07:13:37
thats good thats cured, what did you use to record that?
Post 821368 by oblark on 2021-05-16 21:37:10
Parts for the next upgrade coming together.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33075[/ATTACH]
Post 821369 by MoleT-5R on 2021-05-17 11:07:43
[QUOTE=oblark;821368]Parts for the next upgrade coming together.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33075[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
Xc70 cross country front end I'm guessing
Post 821387 by craigoodwood on 2021-05-23 10:44:39
Woohoo :thewave:
Post 821388 by Dangerous Dave on 2021-05-23 16:50:00
[QUOTE=craigoodwood;821387]Woohoo :thewave:[/QUOTE]
Lol :D I wonder why...
On another note, I'm working in Telford now was around Lawley the other day
Post 821396 by craigoodwood on 2021-05-26 20:40:20
It's a dive ain't it, thankfully I work about 30 miles away so at least get to leave it once a day ��
Post 821397 by Dangerous Dave on 2021-05-26 21:14:03
[QUOTE=craigoodwood;821396]It's a dive ain't it, thankfully I work about 30 miles away so at least get to leave it once a day ��[/QUOTE]
LOL, I thought it was quite nice.
Post 821403 by craigoodwood on 2021-05-28 08:37:25
It used to be before they built thousands of houses around us....
Post 821404 by Dangerous Dave on 2021-05-28 20:44:49
[QUOTE=craigoodwood;821403]It used to be before they built thousands of houses around us....[/QUOTE]
And traffic lights, it's the start of an epidemic....
Post 821507 by oblark on 2021-06-27 20:54:56
A picture speaks a hundred words.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33087[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33088[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33089[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33090[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33091[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33092[/ATTACH]
colour sanded, mopped with compound and machine polished.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33093[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33094[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33095[/ATTACH]
Post 821509 by MoleT-5R on 2021-06-28 07:22:35
[QUOTE=oblark;821507]A picture speaks a hundred words.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33087[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33088[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33089[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33090[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33091[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33092[/ATTACH]
colour sanded, mopped with compound and machine polished.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33093[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33094[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33095[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
Looks good to me, best colour too
Post 821551 by oblark on 2021-07-11 20:02:20
Had a productive day, removed two rusty wings and fitted the P80 early 70 series front end.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33099[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33100[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33101[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33102[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33103[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33104[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33105[/ATTACH]
I think its some sort of lower splitter to "fill the gap"
Post 821553 by MoleT-5R on 2021-07-12 10:46:29
Looks very nice Rob, definately the best colour, but as you said, it needs a splitter.
