htomi's thread

Post 810846 by htomi on 2017-04-02 21:11:20

I was thinking for while if I want to open my own thread or not. Today I decided to give it a shot so here we go: My name is Tamas. Living in Ireland near Cork. A friend of mine got me into Volvo's, back in 2010. He was an enthusiast, who owned several Volvo's - S70 2.0T, S70 T5, P1 V70 R and 05' V70R GT - before switched over to Porsche. So, the time came when I needed a car and he convinced me to get the Swedish brick instead of a fancy German. Himself, Ray my good friend and trusted mechanic, and myself, drove to the other side of the country to buy my first Volvo, a 03' S60 2.0T from a dealer with 91k miles on the clock. 5 years & 100k miles later - still a happy friendship with my daily S60 - two of us again, drove up to the North to check out the only available Irish plate VR for sale, a late 04 GT. At this point, I'd like to mention few things: 1st: I loved my S60, but always wanted a manual P2 VR. 2nd: Not much of a choice here in Ireland, as R's are very-very rare. Few S60R's were listed however not a single P2 V70 R. I know only 1 besides mine. 3rd: The alternative way to source an R is to get it from the UK, pay the customs duty, new road worthiness test and so on, in a nutshell going down on that road is PITA. So I decided to take look on this GT with 75k miles on the clock and 1 previous owner. The body seen better days for sure, few scratches here and there, interior also wasn't perfect, but overall not that bad for a 10 year old car. Engine was running fine, everything was working as should. I said to myself: now or never.... took the leap and bough the car in May'15. The new fRiendship took a bad turn at the 2nd wk of ownership. Heard a loud bang while drove the car on the way home, dash-lights turned into a christmas three, car in limp mode and half of the electrical functions missing. Long story short: the CEM module was toasted. Most likely it was overheated due to the bad design affecting the 03-04s. At the end it had to replaced by the dealership. Luckily I had discount and thanks to my loyalty to the dealership - past 5 years - got a considerable discount on the labour and sw load too. Obviously this incident took out 'some' money from my pocket which was there to put the car back to stage 0 as fast as I can. Next, completed the big service in Sep 2015, as I do not trust any stamped history. All fluids, transmission drain and fill, coolant flush, all filters, spark plugs, T-belt, water pump, brake pads and 4 new tyres. During this service the garage discovered, wrong spark plugs have been used, t-belt wasn't replaced against the stamped history, nor the water pump. So, when I got the car back, it was completely different and better for sure. Since then the below have been replaced THANKS to my good friend Raimund (Ray) who helped me a lot! He has 25+ years of experience as an ex rally lead/head mechanic and respected rally car builder. (mostly Honda's), so he definitely knows his ways around cars ;) [LIST] [*]Rear passenger side wheel bearing together with the hand brake pads, both sides. [*]Handbrake cable and handbrake mod (star adjusters) [*]Front shock absorbers - Bilstein B6 [*]Complete front suspension rebuild - Lemforder and original Volvo parts (tie rods, ball joints, control arms, stabiliser, strut bearing etc) [*]Rear toe bars - OEM [*]Lemforder stabiliser rods front and rear [*]Drive shaft seal [*]Angle gear seal [*]3 times gearbox drain and fill, using Valvoline Max Life ATF [*]Fuel Pump, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump gaskets and plastic lock units [*]PCV and one way vacuum line, inc one way valves [*]TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg, TCV/vacuum hoses. [*]Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee! [*]do88 intake and lower intercooler pipes [*]Forge CBV with green spring [*]Software load/update by Volvo [*]Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks) [*]Center console CF wrap and lid fix [*]Replaced few interior parts which were broken/scratched [*]Leather interior clean and treatment [*]Parrot Asteriod Mini install [/LIST] and possibly few more which I cannot recall. I'm planning the following jobs to be completed: [LIST] [*]Coils and spark Plugs at 100k (just passed 99k) and standard service [*]Strut bar Conversion kit upgrade - ordered [*]Propshaft refurb [*]Angle gear collar-sleeve replacement [*]Shimming the block [*]Coolant flush [*]Brake fluid flush, new rotors + pads (front & rear) [*]Bilstein B6 rears [*]05 center console upgrade - I have it already, need to source brushed aluminium gearbox trim and same cupholder box. [*]Rear windows tint [*]Alloys refurb [/LIST]

Post 810856 by htomi on 2017-04-03 11:46:23

My R My old S60 2.0T - Sold to a friend with 192k miles on the clock. Still used as a daily driver.

Post 810869 by stricky1967 on 2017-04-03 20:23:20

great write up and a lovely car, looks like it's in great condition :beer:

Post 810872 by Dangerous Dave on 2017-04-03 23:17:56

Welcome to the forum! LOL Lovely car and nice to see some info on how much you've done to it and cherish it.

Post 810874 by htomi on 2017-04-04 08:29:34

[QUOTE=stricky1967;810869]great write up and a lovely car, looks like it's in great condition :beer:[/QUOTE] Thank You!

Post 810875 by htomi on 2017-04-04 08:30:10

[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;810872]Welcome to the forum! LOL Lovely car and nice to see some info on how much you've done to it and cherish it.[/QUOTE] Thanks!

Post 811071 by htomi on 2017-04-12 13:16:17

This came in with the post today. :) Installing this weekend.

Post 811112 by htomi on 2017-04-13 14:51:21

I had 20 mins spare time yesterday and installed the Strut Bar Conversion Kit in 15 mins. [LIST] [*]Quality product [*]Nice black finish [*]Fits properly, no issues [*]Installation was done within 15 mins. [*]Strut bar is now rock solid [*]Improved chassis rigidity [*]Under-steer reduced [*]"With regards to increased engine vibration present in the cabin, don't be concerned." True - I haven’t experienced any vibration after install. [/LIST]

Post 811144 by stricky1967 on 2017-04-14 15:53:05

Look great, but the shipping cost seems prohibitive though :(

Post 811147 by LeeT5 on 2017-04-14 17:58:55

I'll be refurbing my propshaft too this summer. PITA job, but it will make a big difference. :)

Post 811148 by LeeT5 on 2017-04-14 18:05:01

[QUOTE=htomi;810846] [LIST] [*]TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg [*]Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee! [*]Forge CBV with green spring [*]Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks) [/LIST][/QUOTE] My pleasure :B_thumb: When you remap, change CBV spring from Green to Yellow mate. I thought the better TCV was the stock Black Pierburg, not the Grey? Got any pictures of the cfwerks Exhaust trim?

Post 811165 by htomi on 2017-04-15 08:21:56

[QUOTE=stricky1967;811144]Look great, but the shipping cost seems prohibitive though :([/QUOTE] Shipping was $53.15. Yeah, not cheap.

Post 811166 by htomi on 2017-04-15 08:27:57

[QUOTE=LeeT5;811147]I'll be refurbing my propshaft too this summer. PITA job, but it will make a big difference. :)[/QUOTE] I got 3 company names locally. Haven't had a chance to get the quote yet. One of them offering prop shaft refurb with sealed U joints too. Will see.

Post 811171 by htomi on 2017-04-15 09:08:56

[QUOTE=LeeT5;811148]My pleasure :B_thumb: When you remap, change CBV spring from Green to Yellow mate. I thought the better TCV was the stock Black Pierburg, not the Grey? Got any pictures of the cfwerks Exhaust trim?[/QUOTE] Yes, if I go for a remap, then the spring will be replaced. TBH I'm happy with the car as is right now. The CBV and the do88 parts made an improvement regarding the driving dynamics. As for the TCV, the review is mixed. Some found the grey better than the black. Others stating the opposite. As mentioned by me in Harvey's thread: he OEM seems to have quicker response on partial throttle, while the grey feels stronger and balanced across the rev range. I have a brand new OEM in the garage in case if I want to swap back. After months of looking and searching for the trim piece - due to mine was broken by the PO, finally ordered an FRP style exhaust trim from Willy (Carbon Fiber Works) for $155 inc shipping. I painted it with matte black. Will post a photo later this weekend.

Post 811172 by Harvey on 2017-04-15 09:14:09

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?58068-Carbon-Fibre-works-Hong-Kong&highlight=

Post 811411 by htomi on 2017-04-25 14:44:16

While I was checking fuses in the engine compartment noticed I have a 10A fuse in №15. Looked at the cover to reference the fuse and the inside sticker lists the one as 'LPG/BiFuel' and 15A. WTH? Shouldn't this one be empty? Decided to swap the 10A to 15A and closed the lid. As I was still bothered and curious, went online and checked the same on various doc's and now its more confusing.... https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/webmanuals/v70/V70_XC70_owners_manual_MY04_EN_tp6726.pdf Page 115 15. Gas tank valve (Bi-Fuel) .................................................................. 15 http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/OwnersManual/om_id/616 Page 119 15 - (blank) Just wondering.... would it be vise to remove the fuse and leave it blank?

Post 811420 by LeeT5 on 2017-04-26 01:01:11

[QUOTE=htomi;811411] Just wondering.... would it be vise to remove the fuse and leave it blank?[/QUOTE] If it ain't broke, don't fix it! If your car doesn't have LPG conversion then removing the fuse will do nothing. Likewise, if you leave the fuse in, it will also do nothing. That circuit may be redundant, so having a fuse there will make no difference. If it were me, I'd leave it mate.

Post 811421 by htomi on 2017-04-26 08:03:11

Thanks Lee! I'll leave it as is.

Post 811437 by htomi on 2017-04-27 19:08:29

My mysterious drive line noise is back. Started noticing this week and it drives me :mad111: I'm suspecting its the propeller shaft, as my AWD is working fine, also pulling the handbrake by 2 clicks (to disable the AWD) doesn't seem to have any impact on this f$$$ noise. I've contacted 2 different drive shaft specialist locally (Ireland) and both said while they supply parts and repair a pretty wide range of prop-shafts (4x4,trucks, passenger cars etc) they cannot repair the Volvo shaft if the center u-joint/bearing is toasted. Any idea what to do? I'm not keen to pay €1200+ to Volvo for a new propshaft..... A fellow US member has the same issue. The noise is the exact same on mine too! As a note, the exhaust bracket has been off from my car since ages, resonator deleted a year ago. [video=youtube_share;QX7StaG96oM]https://youtu.be/QX7StaG96oM[/video]

Post 811444 by LeeT5 on 2017-04-28 02:24:21

After hearing that and noting where the sound is clearly coming from, it is fairly common for the front section of the propshaft to make a glancing contact with the exhaust. You'll know if it is when you get underneath and look at the shaft. If you can see rotational scratch marks on the shaft then Bob's yer uncle! Before you condem the Propshaft center bearing (which rarely fail) I would take the car to an exhaust center and see if they can just move the exhaust away form the Propshaft slightly. Only needs to go about 5mm. Basically mate, if the Center bearing fails, you'll know about it, because you'll hear a loud 'Thudding' noise as the prop trys to throw the middle of the prop outwards through centrifugal force. It will be obvious and virtually unable to drive, if that's the case. I don't think your Centre bearing has failed but I do think your exhaust has probably sagged on the joints and is now sitting too close to the prop. It is also common for the front propshaft CV bearing grease to dry up and turn rock hard, due to it's location (right behind the hot gearbox). This causes the ball bearings to ratte around in the bearing cage within the CV boot. Due to the propshaft being a hollow tube, as the bearings dance about, the noise resonates down the prop and you hear the noise. Only way to cure that is to remove the prop and dismantle the front AND rear CV's, clean and repack with high melting point Litium grease (usually coloured dark red). Literally pack it out as much as you can, then squueze the bearings back in and reassemble. It's an easy enough job and works a treat.

Post 811448 by htomi on 2017-04-28 08:46:23

Thanks for your advise Lee! The sound travels on the metal so its pretty challenging to find the source. I haven't had a chance to crawl under the car but found the exhaust bracket in the garage. Noticed it has a bent portion at the rear side. Similar to V70-R-T5's bracket on the picture below. V70-R-T5's picture: TBH I haven't paid any attention to this detail when I took it off more than a year ago. So it seems got a hit by the PO at some stage. Based on that I'll dig out the center resonator from the big pile of stuff in the garage to inspect if that has any sign of hit or scratch marks. Also it seems the propshaft needs to be off from the car to be able to properly investigate. To take it off and re-assemble it, do I need to buy the new bolts or the old ones can be re-used?

Post 811457 by LeeT5 on 2017-04-28 11:41:52

I think you're misunderstanding my meaning. I'm not talking about the bracket shown in the photo above (which has been clearly damaged by an object on the road/low ground clearance) I'm talking the propshaft touching the Exhaust! Nothing has to be removed, you can clearly see if there's any contact by looking under the car at the propshaft. If it has a scratch mark on it going the whole circumference, then it's making contact with the exhaust. They do get really close to one another at the front section of prop. Easier to see with the car in the air, which is why I suggested going to an exhaust center! If it IS making contact (visible evidence) then they can adjust the exhaust at the same time with the car in the air. To be clear....You do NOT need to remove the prop to investigate this! If you grab hold of the prop, close to the centre support bearing and move it from side to side, it may hit the exhaust. If it does, then that's your noise!

Post 811459 by htomi on 2017-04-28 15:10:39

Thanks again Lee! We (me and my mechanic buddy) will check this accordingly and see it from there. I have another buddy with a garage and lift to check this. As far as I remember from the last time when my car was on the lift in the same garage, there was plenty of clearance between the exhaust and the propshaft, front, rear and center wise. "If you grab hold of the prop, close to the centre support bearing and move it from side to side, it may hit the exhaust. If it does, then that's your noise!" According to the above from your post, would you know what amount of movement/play should be considered normal? Again as mentioned in my previous post, the bracket what came off from my car has sign of a damage from an object on the road/low clearance. I want to make sure the center bearing is in reasonably proper condition (minus the age). Also as said earlier, I did not have this noise for months and it started last weekend after a longer journey on the countryside and got worse during this week. To be honest (and as I'm now thinking back to that journey) at some stage I made a Y turn on an uneven surface - close to pier/dock and heard a scraping noise for a second or two as the bottom of the car had made contact with concrete surface. For a moment I was thinking - ohh sh$t but completely forgot this as haven't heard any strange noise after that, plus during the turn I was driving very-very slowly anyway. So long story short, I can see a chance now, that the exhaust was pushed up and the clearance is changed. (Fingers crossed that's being the issue and nothing else!)

Post 811501 by htomi on 2017-05-02 15:03:03

My battery died on me past weekend. Ordered a new Varta from Tayna batteries. https://www.tayna.co.uk/Type-019-Varta-Silver-Dynamic-Car-Battery-P3127.html Price inc shipping was cheaper then Irish online stores, also to mention finding Varta locally is a mission impossible. Package on its way now. Propshaft check is scheduled for next weekend together with standard service. I wasn't able to source my usual Valvoline oil, so this time I'm going to go with PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40 https://www.pli-petronas.com/uk/petronas-syntium/products/syntium-7000 Volvo oil filter, 5 new volvo spark plugs, 5 new Bosch ignition coils and cleaned Jetex filter waiting to go to celebrate 100k miles on the clock.

Post 811643 by htomi on 2017-05-07 09:02:55

Service completed yesterday. [LIST] [*]Type 019 Varta Silver Dynamic Battery installed [*]5 new Volvo Spark Plugs #30751806 [*]5 new Bosh Ignition Coils - BOS-0221604010 (factory # 30713417) [*]Engine Oil filter and rubber gasket #1275811 [*]PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40 oil [/LIST] The Jetex filter was treated with Jetex Filter Cleaner a week ago and then lightly sprayed with Jetex Filter Oil. http://www.jetex.co.uk/cleaning-parts/ I was so tempted to leave the airbox cover off, to hear nice sound once the air is sucked through the filter, but I let the idea go at the end. Ray, my mechanic checked the prop shaft. He could not find any visible marks regarding the exhaust touching the shaft. The shaft had no side movement = passenger side to driver side, however the front joint has a noticeable play and a metal on metal 'click' noise is coming from it once rotated. Rear joint is fine. According to him, the shaft needs to be taken off, each joint properly inspected while out and see the next steps from there.

Post 811644 by LeeT5 on 2017-05-07 11:22:21

[QUOTE=htomi;811643] [LIST] [*]PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40 oil [/LIST] The Jetex filter was treated with Jetex Filter Cleaner a week ago and then lightly sprayed with Jetex Filter Oil. Ray, my mechanic checked the prop shaft. He could not find any visible marks regarding the exhaust touching the shaft. The shaft had no side movement = passenger side to driver side, however the front joint has a noticeable play and a metal on metal 'click' noise is coming from it once rotated. Rear joint is fine. According to him, the shaft needs to be taken off, each joint properly inspected while out and see the next steps from there.[/QUOTE] Nice oil but don't you think 0W40 is a little thin? Why not go for the 5W40? Your better off leaving the filter dry mate, otherwise the oil residue, no matter how thinly applied, will be drawn through onto the MAF and will contaminate it. Unless your living in a desert, Oil on filters is not nessesary. Regards the shaft, when Ray removes the prop and removes the end cap from the CV, he'll find the grease is dried up and hard and the bearings will be loose and slapping around in the bearing cage. That's what the noise is. Clean it all out and repack with high melting point Lithium grease (not standard CV grease) and reassemble. That will sort the problem. ;)

Post 811651 by htomi on 2017-05-07 19:09:31

Thanks Lee! Previous 3 times I used the Valvoline SynPower 0W-40 without any issues. TBH I was thinking to get a 5W-30 for a change, however only 1x5L bottle was available - which isn't enough. The sales person couldn't confirm when the next batch will arrive, so decided to stick to the 0W-40. Will see how this performs vs the Valvoline. AFAIK the layer of oil applied on to the cotton element of the oiled filter is to trap any stray contaminants. Yes, there is danger if the filter is over oiled it could lead to false MAF readings or worst case a faulty MAF as in this case too much oil will be drawn trough which will contaminate the hot wire over its limit. Most hot wire sensors have a burn off cycle, when the wire will be heated to a very high temperature to burn off contamination. I'll pass the information you gave regarding to the CV joint.

Post 811842 by htomi on 2017-05-14 18:49:30

Celebrated 100k miles on the road to the North West 200. [ATTACH=CONFIG]31568[/ATTACH]

Post 812447 by htomi on 2017-06-13 10:29:00

This came with the post today Code: SVV0810-4C-CLG

Post 813194 by htomi on 2017-07-29 12:37:26

Wednesday, my R left me at the side of the road. It suddenly stalled and lost al power, then it seemed to misfire for 10 more meters and finally the engine 'died'. No error message was on the DIM. DTCs indicated the PEM and the pump (which is 1.5 year old), however after replacing the PEM (luckily had one lying around) still haven't had any luck with the start. After 5 mins swearing and thinking about what else could be the culprit, luckily found the cabin fuse 33 was blown. Fuse replaced, then the car immediately started... let the car idle for 5 mins, then ignition off. Old PEM re-connected, re-start, still working fine.... and since that day no issues everything just working fine. Obviously, blown fuse its no good as something triggered the issue. So here is the list of parts & other 'good to know things' 1. 1.5 year old Skandix fuel pump 2. 1.5 year old Fuel pressure sensor 3. Original PEM, still located under the car - no signs of corrosion on the connectors/pins 4. No previous signs of issues 5. No DCTs stored prior the incident - all green for the past 6 months. 6. At time of the incident ∼60L of petrol was in the tank. So nearly full. 7. The car never ran out of fuel under my ownership, always do full fill ups and do it once the yellow light comes up when it still has roughly 10L petrol in the tank. 10. I stil have the old/original pump in my garage. While the old unit was still working, decided to replace as a preventative maintenance, due to the pump duty cycle was little higher than 40% + its a know failure point for the R. DCTs logged after incident 'ECM 2120 Fuel Pump control module signal too low' and 'CEM 3A03 Fuel pump (FP) signal missing' (which could be due to the blown fuse) Plan: 1. Remove the old PEM and open it to see if there is any sign of corrosion etc inside on the board. 2. Once the PEM checks out, then move to the pump and put back the old one and see if it still blows the fuse. 3. If still blowing the fuse, then check wiring from CEM->PEM and PEM->PUMP Description of the: ECM-2120 Fuel pump control module. Signal too low Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-2120 Condition The engine control module (ECM) controls the fuel pressure via the fuel pump (FP) control module using a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal. The fuel pump (FP) control module then controls the fuel pump (FP) depending on the pressure requested by the engine control module (ECM). Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-2120 is stored if the pulse width modulation (PWM) signal between the engine control module (ECM) and the fuel pump (FP) control module is too high, too low or there is no signal. For information about fuel pressure regulation, see VIDA Design and Function. Substitute value None. Possible source Damaged cable for power supply to fuel pump control module. Damaged ground connection to the fuel pump control module and fuel pump. Contact resistance, oxidation or poor contact in connectors or connections. Signal cable between the engine control module (ECM) and fuel pump control module short-circuited to voltage or ground. Open circuit on signal cable between the engine control module (ECM) and fuel pump control module. Cable between fuel pump control module and fuel pump short-circuited to voltage or ground. Open circuit on cable between fuel pump control module and fuel pump. Damaged fuel pump. Damaged fuel pump (FP) control module. Fault symptom[s] Driving/Poor performance/lacks power/At take off Driving/Poor performance/lacks power Driving/Hesitates/surges/Unsure when/at all times Driving/Hesitates/surges/During acceleration Driving/Hesitates/surges/During deceleration Driving/Engine stalls/Unsure when/at all times Idling/Engine stalls/Unsure when/at all times Starting/Engine stalls Starting/Engine does not start/Engine turns Starting/Engine hard to start/cranks slowly/Unsure when/at all times Starting/Engine does not start/Unsure when/at all times Warning lights and chimes/Malfunction Indicator Light ("Check engine" light) indication/no indication

Post 813207 by htomi on 2017-07-31 13:13:35

Update. Step 1 completed. Old PEM removed and opened. There was some type of white dust covering the board (similar to an oxidation what a leaking battery leaves behind once dried), however no visible sign of any burned parts/diodes etc. Connected the spare PEM (which was working previously) and tried to fire up the engine. Fuse 33 was blown immediately. Re-connected the old original PEM (which was also working previously) & fuse was blowed again immediately. That's where I stopped. I didn't touch anything else, just the PEM and the cable connecting to it. As far as I see, there is a very good chance the PEM to pump cable is the source of the issue, due to both PEMs were working fine before my actions and the only other part I've touched was the cable. Based on the TNN 23-32-2008-04-30 this cable harness is connected to the fuel pump and once relocating the PEM in the trunk it needs to be replaced with a new one. Ordered a new cable harness & will move the PEM into the trunk and see it from there - harness p/n: 30798698 TNN: https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwit3d6Yu7PVAhVB-WMKHfCADUsQFghDMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Faskatech.com%2FAskATechLive%2Fforums%2FResourceHandler.ashx%3Fa%3D13208&usg=AFQjCNFPOdI3S0y8z8sLQmg4IUXWOFCJ2Q

Post 813288 by htomi on 2017-08-05 18:05:29

Update. The Skandix pump failed. Seems, one of the pump motor is shot. Old pump re-installed. PEM ended up again under the car due to the harness p/n: 30798698 doesn't work. I know its strange, but the brand new harness won't work with my 2004 R. Plugs are the same. Installed a new fuel filter too. After digging for a while, I found the following thread on the speed forum:http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?278521-Is-PEM-relocation-possible-without-cutting-the-harness Comparing the 2 cables, the 30798698 does not have the grey plug at the end of the blue cable. Anyways, I'll try to remove the harness and place the PEM under the rear seat as mentioned in that thread.

Post 813292 by MoleT-5R on 2017-08-05 20:49:58

h....these modern Volvo's glad most of mine are the simple ones....not that iI thought that 7 years ago...:rotfl:

Post 813320 by htomi on 2017-08-07 20:00:04

and .... PEM relocated in the trunk. Used the original cable. Jacked up the car, followed the cable from the PEM. Its held by 5 clips. Used a flat headed screwdriver and carefully released all 5 clips. Once it was done, then started pulling back the cable slowly & gently at the pump end. It came up very easily. The whole job took 5 mins. (now I cannot understand the TNN method - e.g. cut the cable...) I had to remove aprox 5cm from the electric wire protector at the pump end, then fitted the cables into the existing rubber gasket cable holes. Reinstalled the metal pump cover and started looking for a 'nice and cosy' place for the PEM. Due to the cable harness is relatively short, there isn't too much room to play around. Finally I came up with the idea on the picture below. plenty of space between the PEM and the cover. Once completed everything, hooked up VIDA and erased all previously logged DTCs. Everything is back to green again :-), then, checked the Pump duty cycle which was at surprise-surprise 36%! When this pump came out 1.5 half year ago it was around 40-41%. Looks like the fuel filter was way overdue...

Post 813321 by htomi on 2017-08-07 20:13:42

[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;813292]h....these modern Volvo's glad most of mine are the simple ones....not that iI thought that 7 years ago...:rotfl:[/QUOTE] Yeah, the devil plays on his instrument to push the black magic into these modern cars....

Post 813325 by LeeT5 on 2017-08-07 21:08:58

I like what you've done but my only concern is heat! Those ribs on the PEM alloy casing are to displace heat from air flow across it, hence why it's placed on the outside of the car. I don't think Volvo are stupid and they would have fitted it inside the car if need be. It might be an idea to utilise a thermoprobe and take a note of the casing temps? You've also trapped the PEM under plywood surrounded by a felt jacket and resting ontop of the carpet above your spare wheel. This will trap heat. If the PEM gets too hot it will not function correctly. :gossip: discuss. Otherwise it's a neat idea. I would have cleaned the PEM up though rather than leaving it caked in dirt. :duck:

Post 813329 by htomi on 2017-08-08 12:11:56

Yes, the heat is a concern too. However: 1. Based on the TNN TNN 23-32-2008-04-30 mentioned above, the PEM has been relocated at the right end side of the spare tyre well. Moreover, from 2006 onwards the the default location of the PEM is the spare tyre well due to the original location of the PEM led to various issues. (water, corrosion etc) 2. I placed the PEM at the far end of the trunk floor cover. As you can see there is at least 5 cm space between the top of the PEM and the black cover - over the spare tyre also plenty of space in all directions, plus air flows in the trunk too. (even if its minimal) 3. Others (sspeed.com), placed the PEM under the rear seat and reported no issues after it's relocation. I was in a hurry as the miss wanted to go so, I haven't had a chance to clean the PEM. I'll do that later this week and also tidy up the surrounding area.

Post 813404 by htomi on 2017-08-13 11:47:29

Regarding the heat concern what Lee mentioned above. After a 45 mins spirited drive, lifted the trunk floor cover and touched the PEM with my hands, to see how warm it is. The unit was warm-ish, like around body temperature. I haven't had a thermometer, but would guess around 25-30 celsius max.

Post 813526 by htomi on 2017-08-28 22:21:34

Today is the day for me to let my R go for sale...:( I had to move on as our family is going to grow within 6 weeks :) and I needed something else to be my daily driver and same time keeping the overall costs down. Also, I won't have more time to spend in the garage and pamper this Viking in the forseeable future. This was a tough decision to make as the V70R was my dream car. My heart still goes for the R but my mind tells me to let her go. I wish I could keep it in the garage for the next years, but unfortunaltely I cannot.... I'd rather see her on the road owned by someone else than collecting dust in a dark storage. Asking price €6000 About the Car and the services done. It's a 2004 V70R 5spd Geartronic, Titanium Gary with Gobi interior on a 05 Irish plate. According to the information I have, its one of the 14 Irish car which was ever brought into this country as new. Currently it has 103400 Miles on the clock. Engine unmodified. No tune, no ECU modifications. Last service was completed at 100k miles. Stamped service history up to 75k (Volvo and private garages) From 75k onwards maintained by a private mechanic (Ray) and I have a folder full with receipts, mostly Volvo parts. Original sales receipt and the Atacama owners folder included. Modifications: [LIST] [*]do88 Intake pipe [*]do88 Lower Intercooler pipe [*]Forge CBV with green spring [*]Grey Pierburg TCV [*]Bilstein B6 shocks front [*]Center Resonator delete [*]Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit [*]Star Adjuster - Handbrake [*]Carbon wrapped Center Console [*]Parrot Asteriod Mini installed [/LIST] Other services completed: [LIST] [*]Rear passenger side wheel bearing together with the hand brake pads, both sides. [*]Handbrake cable and handbrake mod (star adjusters) [*]Complete front suspension rebuild - Lemforder and original Volvo parts (tie rods, ball joints, control arms, stabiliser, strut bearing etc) [*]Rear toe bars - OEM [*]Lemforder stabiliser rods front and rear [*]Drive shaft seal [*]Angle gear seal & fluid change [*]3 times gearbox drain and fill, using Valvoline Max Life ATF [*]Rear differential and AOC fluid change [*]Fuel Pump, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump gaskets and plastic lock units [*]PEM moved into the trunk [*]PCV and one way vacuum line, inc one way valves [*]TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg, TCV/vacuum hoses. [*]Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee!, now back to Mann Paper filter [*]Software load/update by Volvo [*]Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks) [*]Replaced few interior parts which were broken/scratched [*]Leather interior clean and treatment [*]Fuel filter replaced [*]New spark plugs (Volvo) [*]Air quality sensor replaced, Cabin filter replaced, Aircon disinfected. [*]The rest is within my thread or within this forum. [/LIST] The good: [LIST] [*]The car drives well, pulls strong, no issues, no errors stored. [*]Gearbox is fine, gear change is smooth, however I rarely used it in automatic mode. [*]No coolant consumption. [*]Combustion gas test in coolant passed. [*]Rear 4C shocks still holding off fine. [*]4WD works fine. [*]Brake pads changed aprox 8k miles - all corner, still fine. [*]Eagle F1 AS3s are in good shape plenty of thread left. [*]Aircon works as it should. [*]The past 10 months the car was used mainly on weekends and long distance journeys. [/LIST] The not so good: It's a 12 years old car, so don't expect and immaculate car. [LIST] [*]It has few scratches and small dents. The ps side front fender, rear door and smaller dent on the rear bumper. [*]All was there before my ownership started. [*]The PO told me the rear end was re-painted once already due to the 'don't give a damm' type of people in the parking lots and banging the door to another car without noticing it. [*]The 2 dents (fender and door) got there after 2 weeks the re-paint was done, then he gave up. [*]The black paint on the lower intercooler is pealing off, I haven't had a chance to re-paint it. [*]The Gobi leather is in good shape, however it would require a restoration. [*]Pegs are balanced however would require a refurb. [*]Prop shaft would require a check/re-grease. [*]Angle gear collar sleeve hasn't been replaced. [*] 2nd key was destroyed by the PO, He wrapped it with duck tape. Despite its condition, still opens the door and starts the car, but would not dare to use it unless its an emergency. [/LIST]