I had a good go of uncles car tonight...05 Mondeo 2.0 tdci 130 and think I prefer it to mine (04 v70 D5 auto) There's more pick it/torque than mine ok mines auto and heavier and that's got a lot to do with that side of it but even general driving and handling it feels better, plus I could do proper turn instead of trying to turn the bloody QE2. I expected quite a boring and dull drive but it wasn't the case. It's making me think..
Yup, they're not Mundanos any more. Had a go of an ST diesel estate (2.2 155) when new and very nearly bought it. They go and handle very well indeed, but the power is deceiving as it comes in with a bang, making it feel very quick, but the power band is very small so quickly falls away. Still a very underrated car though. Ford can make a cracking chassis. They're even screwed together pretty well these days!
Yes his is also an estate i forgot to say.. You're not kidding, unless his has been mapped which I doubt as he's not that kind of guy, I know you say they tail off quite quick, not his, it pulled all the way to the red I just did it once to compared to mine. If this is what a poverty spec 130 lx is like then I probably would go for the st tdci. I know there are all the horrors of dmf', injectors ect ect but everything's got it's problems. Only thing that puts me the st is the wheels as in 18's I find 17's on mine hard/rough enough so it would harder/rougher on the st as it's lighter..still. Seriously, it's making think hard, ok the build isn't as solid as the v70 but if I can live with that I'd have a decent'ish car.
Don't do it!!! The TDCi duratorq engine on the Mondeo is a pile of crap! I promise you, the grass ain't greener on the other side mate. I recover probably 2 or 3 of those a month with failed Injection pumps, Blown turbos (very common) and general build quality issues. ...... as for D5's......probably about 1 a year! Don't get me wrong, you may have a good one, of which, they are few and far between but I can assure you until it breaks down, you'll never know.
Buy a 2.0 Tdci, you won't look back. You'll be holding your head in your hands crying. The repair bills just keep coming, as Lee pointed out injectors, fuel pumps, pulleys, clutches and gearboxes. It's never ending and once you change them you start the cycle over again.
Strange, I've had three (and am about to buy my 4th next week) and never had any of these issues and all have been well over 100k miles.
Same with him, he's had it 5 or 6 years and apart from a clutch at about 75 thou (about a year after he got it) there's been nothing else apart from front brakes. Maybe like you he got a good one....or as Lee says I'd get a duffer lol
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811664]Don't do it!!! The TDCi duratorq engine on the Mondeo is a pile of crap! I promise you, the grass ain't greener on the other side mate. I recover probably 2 or 3 of those a month with failed Injection pumps, Blown turbos (very common) and general build quality issues. ...... as for D5's......probably about 1 a year! Don't get me wrong, you may have a good one, of which, they are few and far between but I can assure you until it breaks down, you'll never know.[/QUOTE] Really! I could list a few things mine's needing...a bloody gearbox for one!, and just last night when getting back in it after a go in his the pass mirror decided not to adjust!. I also need a o/s cv and/or abs sensor. So it's not all roses with Volvo either, but a gearbox that's mega rendering it as more/less scrap at least with his mondeo it just gets a new one (clutch) and he's back otr.
Dynamically the mondeo is the better car. I drove one when i had my s60 and it was much better to drive, though i thought the diesel engines sound like a bag of nails. For me personally, i don't think the phase 2 s60 and v70s are a particular high point for volvo (regarding build quality and reliability), but the engines are pretty good and reliable for what they are. Even my s60 2.0t auto went well enough for the size of the car.
They are Liam, i was impressed, folk can say what they like about them everything breaks from time to time whether it's people buggering about and causing stuff or just sods law kicking in, i know Lee said he picks a few up every month, i personally haven't saw one on a low loader, or if i have god knows when...plenty of new/ish stuff though. Driving mine today felt like a barge, a comfy one though i might ad but compared to the "go" of unc's Mondy, no contest. He phoned earlier to say he's going away for 3 weeks from this weekend and if i wanted to use it, can get it tomorrow if i want as he won't be using all week....so i'll take him up on the offer. I'll probably stall a few times :smile: :doh: :rolleyes:
[QUOTE=claymore;811668]Strange, I've had three (and am about to buy my 4th next week) and never had any of these issues and all have been well over 100k miles.[/QUOTE] Your special and you don't do my job! :rolleyes: [QUOTE=Sniff;811671]Really! I could list a few things mine's needing...a bloody gearbox for one!, and just last night when getting back in it after a go in his the pass mirror decided not to adjust!. I also need a o/s cv and/or abs sensor. So it's not all roses with Volvo either, but a gearbox that's mega rendering it as more/less scrap at least with his mondeo it just gets a new one (clutch) and he's back otr.[/QUOTE] Listen mate, don't try and convince me that having a crappy Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Duratorq (aka a Posh Transit) is better than owning a D5, because you'll never win that contest. We all know V70 Auto's can (if abused) eat transmissions, but in a reliability contest - the D5 will pi** all over the Mondeo all day long! The short list of problems Tim mentioned is exactly that...short! Blaming the poor turning circle is a cop out because it ain't as bad as an R's turning circle and any V70 D5 or R owner gets used to the turning circle anyway, so it's not really an issue, just a negative if you're ££££ at parking and can't drive. :saythat: The 2.0 Duratorq TDCi is well known for eating clutches and you won't just be replacing the clutch without replacing the DMF and CSS either - so won't be as cheap as you think! As already mentioned - Electronic Injectors, High pressure pumps, water pumps, Turbo's, DMF's, clutches, starter motor and flywheel ring gear failures are all very common failure points, particularly the injectors, starter motors and HP diesel pumps, which are notoriously problematic. They have poor idling issues caused by worn pumps, non start issues due to failing Injectors etc etc. The D5's have they're own issues, but no where near as bad as the Duratorq's. The Duratorq's are noisy and weak and have a very small torque curve, unlike the D5's. No four cylinder engine is going to be better than a five cylinder and the Turbo's on D5's will typically last twice as long as a TDCi's will, stretching way beyond 200k if looked after with regular oil changes and good general maintenance. Not so for the Duratorq's. I've put more 2.0 and 2.2 Duratorq transit's with turbo failure on a truck than any D5 with a knackered transmission and only a slack handful of D5's with 'worn' not 'failed' (there's a difference) Turbo's. As for wanting to drive a Mondeo short distance, let alone long distance...why? Next your be telling me that the seats in the Mondeo are uber comfy and way better than a D5! , :rotfl: well we all know that won't be true, as the seats in Volvo's are well documented as being one of the most comfortable in any production car and even better than SAAB's! Other than the Gearbox, the O/S CV, ABS sensor and passenger mirror assy you mentioned will cost pennies in comparison to the cost of constantly repairing a 2.0 Duratorq Mondeo long term. [QUOTE=Sniff;811687]They are Liam, i was impressed, folk can say what they like about them everything breaks from time to time whether it's people buggering about and causing stuff or just sods law kicking in, i know Lee said he picks a few up every month, i personally haven't saw one on a low loader, or if i have god knows when...plenty of new/ish stuff though. Driving mine today felt like a barge, a comfy one though i might ad but compared to the "go" of unc's Mondy, no contest. He phoned earlier to say he's going away for 3 weeks from this weekend and if i wanted to use it, can get it tomorrow if i want as he won't be using all week....so i'll take him up on the offer. I'll probably stall a few times :smile: :doh: :rolleyes:[/QUOTE] If your's hasn't got the 'Go' like your Uncle's Mondeo, ever considered that it may have a faulty TCV or maybe the PCV needs replacing??...Or isn't it because, like you've already mentioned, the Gearbox is faulty?? Hardly a fair comparison, if that's the case! I know I've been on a rant here (so please don't take it personally) but don't come into a Volvo Forum and expect to convert us to buying a Mondeo over a D5. I'm afraid to say that you'll never convince anyone here that driving a 2.0 TDCi plastic Mondeo is better than a V70 D5, certainly not me anyway. The V70 D5 looks way better, is more comfy (especially on long journeys), more refined, higher spec as standard, better load carrying capacity and much better quality interior. It's also in a different class, meaning it will have higher residual value and won't depreciate like a Mondeo will. It also has a more reliable 5 cylinder Diesel engine with very high torque and good BHP output. Unlike the 115/130 bhp on your Mondeo......which is the only reason why it's better on fuel. The only plus side of owning a Mondeo is that maintenance, insurance are cheaper! ..........Nope, sorry but I can't think of any other good points :haha: If you prefer the Mondeo over the V70 D5 then I'm happy for you :B_thumb: but perhaps you should hop on over to the Ford forums where you may get a more interested response.
And breathe :smile: I think all I really mean is that I enjoyed driving it I did say the Volvo was better built ect it doesn't take Einstein to see that. It's mainly the auto box in mine, and as anybody knows it makes a car basically scrap value. Yes the turning's bloody embarrassing at times but getting used to it but still make an arse of it. Like I say, I'll use his mondy for the next couple of weeks, yes I might think fk this after a few days for whatever reason but I'll use it anyway. This pcv you mention, I know petrols have them but didn't know diesels did, I know I've got an oil breather pipe thingy on the front of the block that the guy I use said said he thinks is blocked, is that what you mean?. You also mention a tcv, I take it that's a throttle control valve, I'll like into that too. You see though all these mount up too plus what I mentioned so repairs wise it's not good with mine either.
[QUOTE=Sniff;811697]And breathe :smile: I think all I really mean is that I enjoyed driving it I did say the Volvo was better built ect it doesn't take Einstein to see that. It's mainly the auto box in mine, and as anybody knows it makes a car basically scrap value. Yes the turning's bloody embarrassing at times but getting used to it but still make an arse of it. Like I say, I'll use his mondy for the next couple of weeks, yes I might think fk this after a few days for whatever reason but I'll use it anyway. This pcv you mention, I know petrols have them but didn't know diesels did, I know I've got an oil breather pipe thingy on the front of the block that the guy I use said said he thinks is blocked, is that what you mean?. You also mention a tcv, I take it that's a throttle control valve, I'll like into that too. You see though all these mount up too plus what I mentioned so repairs wise it's not good with mine either.[/QUOTE] If you've no intention of selling the D5 then 'value' is irrelevant. If you want to fix it, then fix it and get the gearbox sorted. There are plenty of people that drive round in cars worth 'Scrap value' for years, so It's the value of the car if you're intending on selling it, which is more important. Diesel's don't have a PCV trap like the petrols do but they still have a crankcase ventilation system and this mainly consists of 2 main pipes and is crucial to the running of the car. There is a crankcase ventilation (CCV) hose on the D5244T4/5/6/7 engines #30757132 that is the main pipe. On the D5244T/T2/T3 engine it's #30646925 Both pipes are not cheap, costing over £100. However, they, like the main PCV pipe of a petrol car cannot be cleaned out easily, if at all. You will never get all the muck out of one let alone the baked in carbon deposits that will line the pipework and internals of a high mileage diesel engine. They typically break anyway due to fatigue, so pointless trying to fix them. These pipes play a major role in allowing the engine to breath and perform efficiently and typically have a service life of around 100k. They should be replaced not cleaned. Volvo even have a PCV replacement interval in it's service scheduling on all cars at around 96k (Clean and inspect, ie, replace if suspect blocked). Due to high mileage cars seldom visiting a Dealer for service, it's not uncommon for these pipes to be neglected and the results can be catastrophic with failed Rear main seals, Cam seals leaking oil onto the timing belt resulting in engine failure if not rectified. TCV = Turbo Control Valve. On diesels it's known as 'The Governor'! #30637251 These are double the price of a petrol TCV at around the £160 mark. Proper diagnosis would be adviseable due to cost but like any TCV, they degrade over time and become larthagic in response.
Thanks for explaining all that Lee it's appreciated :smile: Yea I know there's folk (me include) going about in scrap value stuff, I'd like to get at least the box fixed but don't have 2000 + to do it just now so will live with it. As for the rest, it'll get done in time but as you said I'd better get the crank breather thing ironed out first as maybe that's what blew the seals and core plug who knows. All in all though I like the big old ovlov but would just like a bit more torque/oomph :smile: Then again what I forgot to say....I don't don't the miles to justify a diesel only doing about 3500-4 a year. Probably a small petrol would do.
Have you tried flushing the Transmission oil followed by a Transmission Control Module Adaption and resetting the oil counter? Control module adaptation Resetting the adaptation: Resetting adaptation and the counter for “Gearbox oil change” Hint: The gearbox has torque controlled adaptive pressure control. Pressure control means that the gearbox regulates the pressure itself during each gear shift. This avoids harsh gear shifting. Each gear shift is evaluated by the control module and stored in the memory. This allows for compensation for wear and tear in the gearbox and clutch. It is important that the adaptation in the memory is reset after the gearbox has been repaired. This is to ensure normal operation. The oil is replaced during repair; the “Gearbox oil change” counter must be reset. If the counter is not reset when the fluid is drained and replaced, there is a risk that a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored in incorrect circumstances. Note! This applies only if the gearbox or one of the components in the gearbox have been replaced Conditions for adaptation: Note! The oil level in the gearbox must be checked first to ensure that the software in the gearbox control module (TCM) can be adapted correctly. Adjust if necessary. The gearbox fluid must also be at operating temperature (65 -110 °C) Winter (W) mode must not be active when adapting After activation of “Adaptation mode” and when the correct gearbox fluid temperature has been reached, the message “ Gearbox fluid temperature too high” is displayed in the combined instrument panel display During adaptation, gear position D must be used unless otherwise indicated. The control module cannot be adapted in the "Man" (Geartronic) position. Control module adaptation Activating adaptation mode Hint: The following method is for a basic adaptation of the gearbox. For more sporty driving styles, the basic adaptation may not give an improved shifting quality. The method can be adapted to cover the engine speeds at which the shift quality problems occur. However you must ensure that the orange/yellow warning lamp lights exactly as with the basic adaptation. Note! Always begin with a basic adaptation. Connect the VIDA station Start the engine Gear selector in position P Activate “Adaptation Mode”. Note! Do not switch off the engine. Disconnect the VIDA station. Test drive the car as described below. Start the test drive after the text message is displayed in the combined instrument panel. The general orange/yellow warning lamp is used during the adaptation as an indicator to show that a target value has been reached. The warning lamp goes out after 2-4 seconds, depending on the type of adaptation that has been carried out. Test drive description for up-shift adaptation Accelerate gently at an engine speed of approximately 1400 rpm up to 4th gear. Hold the accelerator pedal (AP) in a fixed position throughout the acceleration. Stop the car and repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after each shift. A number of accelerations may be required to obtain the correct result. Note! 5th gear will not be available at this engine speed. Carry out another acceleration, but this time up to 5th gear. Raise the engine speed to approximately 1800 rpm. Hold the accelerator pedal (AP) in a fixed position throughout the acceleration. Repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after each shift. A number of accelerations may be required to obtain the correct result Accelerate again up to 5th gear, but this time raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm. Hold the accelerator pedal (AP) in a fixed position throughout the acceleration. Repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after each shift. A number of accelerations may be required to obtain the correct result. Note! The gearbox control module (TCM) adapts continuously. Not all shifts will be “perfect”. For example, the orange/yellow warning lamp will not light after each shift from 1-2. The lamp only needs to have lit once for each shift at each engine speed to be sure that the adaptation has reached its target value. Test drive description for down-shift adaptation Drive the car at approximately 70 km/h (45 mph) in 5th gear. Release the accelerator pedal (AP) and brake gently to a standstill Repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after each downshift. Note that a number of retardations may be required to obtain the correct result. If it is difficult to achieve the correct result: increase or reduce the pressure on the brake pedal. Description of adaptation of “garage shifting” Run the engine at idle speed and hold the brake pedal pressed down. Then move the gear selector to position N. Wait 5 seconds. Move the gear selector to the R position. Wait 5 seconds. Then move the gear selector back to N. The adaptation is complete when the orange/yellow warning lamp lights when the gear selector is in the R position Run the engine at idle speed and hold the brake pedal pressed down. Then move the gear selector to position N. Wait 5 seconds. Move the gear selector to the D position. Wait 5 seconds. Then move the gear selector back to N. The adaptation is complete when the orange/yellow warning lamp lights when the gear selector is in the D position. Information for car with “Neutral check” When disengagement of clutch C1 is OK, the orange/yellow warning lamp will light when the gear selector is moved to position D and the brake pedal is pressed down. This takes 1-3 seconds. Description of adaptation of “Neutral check” Drive slowly, at approximately 10 km/h (5 mph) with the gear selector in position D. Brake carefully until the car is stationary. Repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after the car has stopped. The position for C1 disengagement has been adapted when the lamp lights Run the engine at idle speed and hold the brake pedal pressed down. Move the gear selector to position D. Wait approximately 25 seconds until the general orange/yellow warning lamp has lit. When the warning lamp has lit, release the brake pedal and let the car roll slowly forwards. Repeat the procedure until the general orange/yellow warning lamp lights after the brake pedal has been released. The position for C1 engagement has been adapted when the lamp lights. Note! The general orange/yellow warning lamp will not light each time. The lamp only needs to have lit once for the adaptation to have reached its target value.
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811689]Your special and you don't do my job! :rolleyes: Listen mate, don't try and convince me that having a crappy Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Duratorq (aka a Posh Transit) is better than owning a D5, because you'll never win that contest. We all know V70 Auto's can (if abused) eat transmissions, but in a reliability contest - the D5 will pi** all over the Mondeo all day long! The short list of problems Tim mentioned is exactly that...short! Blaming the poor turning circle is a cop out because it ain't as bad as an R's turning circle and any V70 D5 or R owner gets used to the turning circle anyway, so it's not really an issue, just a negative if you're ££££ at parking and can't drive. :saythat: The 2.0 Duratorq TDCi is well known for eating clutches and you won't just be replacing the clutch without replacing the DMF and CSS either - so won't be as cheap as you think! As already mentioned - Electronic Injectors, High pressure pumps, water pumps, Turbo's, DMF's, clutches, starter motor and flywheel ring gear failures are all very common failure points, particularly the injectors, starter motors and HP diesel pumps, which are notoriously problematic. They have poor idling issues caused by worn pumps, non start issues due to failing Injectors etc etc. The D5's have they're own issues, but no where near as bad as the Duratorq's. The Duratorq's are noisy and weak and have a very small torque curve, unlike the D5's. No four cylinder engine is going to be better than a five cylinder and the Turbo's on D5's will typically last twice as long as a TDCi's will, stretching way beyond 200k if looked after with regular oil changes and good general maintenance. Not so for the Duratorq's. I've put more 2.0 and 2.2 Duratorq transit's with turbo failure on a truck than any D5 with a knackered transmission and only a slack handful of D5's with 'worn' not 'failed' (there's a difference) Turbo's. As for wanting to drive a Mondeo short distance, let alone long distance...why? Next your be telling me that the seats in the Mondeo are uber comfy and way better than a D5! , :rotfl: well we all know that won't be true, as the seats in Volvo's are well documented as being one of the most comfortable in any production car and even better than SAAB's! Other than the Gearbox, the O/S CV, ABS sensor and passenger mirror assy you mentioned will cost pennies in comparison to the cost of constantly repairing a 2.0 Duratorq Mondeo long term. If your's hasn't got the 'Go' like your Uncle's Mondeo, ever considered that it may have a faulty TCV or maybe the PCV needs replacing??...Or isn't it because, like you've already mentioned, the Gearbox is faulty?? Hardly a fair comparison, if that's the case! I know I've been on a rant here (so please don't take it personally) but don't come into a Volvo Forum and expect to convert us to buying a Mondeo over a D5. I'm afraid to say that you'll never convince anyone here that driving a 2.0 TDCi plastic Mondeo is better than a V70 D5, certainly not me anyway. The V70 D5 looks way better, is more comfy (especially on long journeys), more refined, higher spec as standard, better load carrying capacity and much better quality interior. It's also in a different class, meaning it will have higher residual value and won't depreciate like a Mondeo will. It also has a more reliable 5 cylinder Diesel engine with very high torque and good BHP output. Unlike the 115/130 bhp on your Mondeo......which is the only reason why it's better on fuel. The only plus side of owning a Mondeo is that maintenance, insurance are cheaper! ..........Nope, sorry but I can't think of any other good points :haha: If you prefer the Mondeo over the V70 D5 then I'm happy for you :B_thumb: but perhaps you should hop on over to the Ford forums where you may get a more interested response.[/QUOTE] Hilarious. Can you not except a little bit of criticism directed at volvo? Last time i checked, he wasn't trying to convert anyone. He was just saying how it was a better drive which, when it comes to how they handle, is true (we're not talking about the R here, or one with the 4c chassis). Just because this is a volvo forum, are we not allowed to say if we don't like something about them? BTW, i'm not doubting that the V70 is more reliable but, statistically, you would be more likely to come across more modeos in your line of work wouldn't you? After all, they did sell more cars.
Liam, I agree with what you say mate. Fact is, if I ever go out to a D5 V70 or S60 it's 99/100 because the batteries flat or it's a silly fault, like the rear brake shoes delaminating and one brake slightly sticking on. Not the Duratorqs! Every single time, whether it's a Transit, Mondeo, London Taxi or Focus's, it's always bloody Injectors, starter motors, diesel pumps blah blah blah, never simple faults like a flat battery (rare occasion). Doesn't matter how many Mondeos there are in relation to Volvos, the fact is, they're remembered by mechanics that are in the trade for the common failures.
[QUOTE=LiamT4;811710]Hilarious. Can you not except a little bit of criticism directed at volvo? Last time i checked, he wasn't trying to convert anyone. He was just saying how it was a better drive which, when it comes to how they handle, is true (we're not talking about the R here, or one with the 4c chassis). Just because this is a volvo forum, are we not allowed to say if we don't like something about them? BTW, i'm not doubting that the V70 is more reliable but, statistically, you would be more likely to come across more modeos in your line of work wouldn't you? After all, they did sell more cars.[/QUOTE] Cheers Liam :smile: And again cheers lee for explaining it all Yes I'll get things fixed one at a time, and as I said above, I knew about the oil breather at the front as the guy I use showed me and also knew the price of it. I didn't know the pipes should be replaced too, is the 100 you mentioned for both or each, think it's both. So I'd be about 360 for the the tcv and pipe/s and probably another 100-/+ to fit (unless I can do it, quite with the spanners but never did anything like that) so more/less 500 all in....then there's the cv/abs, the pass mirror, now from yesterday the bloody handbrake needs adjusting as something's squeeling. But the biggest ball breaker as mentioned is the gearbox. So..tallying all this up I'll be in the region of £3000 makes you think eh!, well it does with me. Without getting another row off you :smile:...I picked his mondy yesterday, it's a refreshing change, well it is to me, and btw the seats are just as comfy as mine allbeit cloth. I'll use till the weekend at least and see how it goes. Btw i googled the part numbers you said but all I'm getting is stuff for petrols, I'll phone 2 of the companies shortly and ask. Is this what I need pipe wise.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VOLVO-XC90-S60-V70-S80-D5-DIESEL-TURBO-HOSE-CHARGE-PIPE-30680445-/321225624106?hash=item4aca8a0a2a:g:gsEAAOxyWmxSVmNd And this what came up when putting "turbo control valve" but know you said about £160 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Volvo-Turbo-Boost-Valve-S60-V70-XC70-XC90-S80-Diesel-Brand-New-/190710122177?hash=item2c673586c1:m:mnCuxu6Y9CWAcCyWzwYQe3Q They said it fits, if this is a gen part (says it is) that's some saving!
The first part you list is the intake hose from the air box! That's NOT what you need. What's your engine code?
239689 The oil catch/breather thing or tcv as it's called is the right one, that some saving even if it's sent snail mail. Just got told 10 mins ago that we're getting paid off end of the month, ££££!!....that's a major factor to what gets done now.
That oil breather thing I posted above is the wrong one I'll fund the right one and Lee yes you're probably right ie about 160 and about 100 for pipe/s. I asked the guy I use he said I should be able to clean the pipe bit not the oil breather...I'll have a look later.
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811719]Liam, I agree with what you say mate. Fact is, if I ever go out to a D5 V70 or S60 it's 99/100 because the batteries flat or it's a silly fault, like the rear brake shoes delaminating and one brake slightly sticking on. Not the Duratorqs! Every single time, whether it's a Transit, Mondeo, London Taxi or Focus's, it's always bloody Injectors, starter motors, diesel pumps blah blah blah, never simple faults like a flat battery (rare occasion). Doesn't matter how many Mondeos there are in relation to Volvos, the fact is, they're remembered by mechanics that are in the trade for the common failures.[/QUOTE] I agree, i was just pointing out that even if they were as reliable as the v70 that you'd still see more simply down to the numbers involved. The one part about the phase 2 s60s and v70s that i really did rate were the engines, they are good strong engines. On the other hand, i like the 2005 mondeo but i wasn't a fan of the diesel engine. Not having driven many i can't comment on the reliability, but the diesel engine felt rough and made a poor sound (even for a diesel) but the rest of the car was pretty good. On the question of performance between the two, would a d5 geartronic actually be much, if at all, quicker? If we compare the two : 2004 v70 d5 geartronic has 163bhp and 251lb/ft. 2005 mondeo 2.0tdci 130 has 128bhp and 243lb/ft. So while the d5 has 35bhp more, it only has 8lb/ft more. When you think that the volvo will probably be around 100kg heavier and is a geartronic, which means more power losses to the wheels, i bet its actually quite close between them.
Very true Liam.....I'm enjoying his mondy anyway and to me it's just as comfy as mine. One thing really annoys me about mine is the tax...320 a year...I know it's not as much is some but boils my blood.
[QUOTE=Sniff;811725][B]239689 [/B] The oil catch/breather thing or tcv as it's called is the right one, that some saving even if it's sent snail mail. Just got told 10 mins ago that we're getting paid off end of the month, ££££!!....that's a major factor to what gets done now.[/QUOTE] That's not an engine code mate. That's the last 6 of your chassis number. It will be something like D5244T
No it's not the last 6 of that are 479675 These numbers above are on the log book next to "engine number" and don't anything that starts D5
Lee will be happy to know, I didn't buy the Mondeo, I got a V50 instead :D
[QUOTE=Sniff;811777]No it's not the last 6 of that are 479675 These numbers above are on the log book next to "engine number" and don't anything that starts D5 [ATTACH=CONFIG]31563[/ATTACH][/QUOTE] That's your engine number, not engine code Fella. Also, full chassis number and pretty much anything else someone may need to clone your car. Not meaning to be patronising or anything, but you may want to take the pic down, or maybe edit it with some of the numbers blurred out. :) As for your engine code, it should be on a label on the timing belt cover. It is on the petrols anyway.
[QUOTE=claymore;811780]Lee will be happy to know, I didn't buy the Mondeo, I got a [COLOR="#FF0000"]Focus[/COLOR] instead :D
[/QUOTE]
Sorted :)
Seriously though, that looks nice, Colin.
A mate of mine has a T5 and I was very impressed with the quality of it. Much better than I was expecting.
[QUOTE=claymore;811780]Lee will be happy to know, I didn't buy the Mondeo, I got a V50 instead :D
[/QUOTE]
All the best ford focus's have a Volvo badge on them...;)
Very nice indeed....
You can decipher you chassis no. here and as I see it you have a d5 2.4 5 speed auto...https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_70.shtml
[QUOTE=Sniff;811777]No it's not the last 6 of that are 479675 These numbers above are on the log book next to "engine number" and don't anything that starts D5[/QUOTE] Look at the side of the timing cover, it will have a white sticker on it. There will be an engine number starting D5?????
[QUOTE=MoleT-5R;811792]You can decipher you chassis no. here and as I see it you have a d5 2.4 5 speed auto...https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_70.shtml[/QUOTE] According to that, I got.... Car V70 5DRS D5244T <<<<[COLOR="#FF0000"]Engine code[/COLOR] AW55-50SN (Gearbox type) 2005 MY Made in Gothenburg plant.
Cheers guys will check it shortly
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811799]According to that, I got.... Car V70 5DRS D5244T <<<<[COLOR=#FF0000]Engine code[/COLOR] AW55-50SN (Gearbox type) 2005 MY Made in Gothenburg plant.[/QUOTE] Snap.....that's what I got from it, just was to tired to type it all up this morning after a wearing 12 hour nightshift...:) [QUOTE=Sniff;811800]Cheers guys will check it shortly[/QUOTE] Looks like Lee's done the legwork for you...:)
[QUOTE=LiamT4;811733] So while the d5 has 35bhp more, it only has 8lb/ft more. When you think that the volvo will probably be around 100kg heavier and is a geartronic, which means more power losses to the wheels, i bet its actually quite close between them.[/QUOTE] Yes, but when your floor the D5...it pulls and pulls and pulls and keeps pulling, unlike the mondeo will very quickly run out of puff and when driven hard, they sound like London taxis....not a cool sound.
[QUOTE=Sniff;811800]Cheers guys will check it shortly[/QUOTE] Check what? Where do you think I pulled those part numbers from...out my arris?
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811817]Check what? Where do you think I pulled those part numbers from...out my arris?[/QUOTE] I think he meant the plate on the engine timing belt cover. .
[QUOTE=LeeT5;811816]unlike the mondeo will very quickly run out of puff and when driven hard, they sound like London taxis....not a cool sound.[/QUOTE] Not his it doesn't it pulls right through As mole said I'll check the cover But things might change as I'm getting paid off at end of the month, so a box rebuild is out. I'll think about it over the weekend but might sell as spares ect
Getting sold as spares ect