Afternoon, My v70 2.4t (y reg) seems to only blow warm air with the fan on. I haven't had the car all that long but while it's been cold I've noticed this. Any thoughts? I haven't tried it using the air-con for it. Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Could be thermostat playing up. Does the temp gauge get to the middle of the scale?
[QUOTE=M-R-P;814947]Could be thermostat playing up. Does the temp gauge get to the middle of the scale?[/QUOTE]Yeah it gets to the centre or one line under centre. Tends to fluctuate. It only takes a few minutes to get up-to temperature. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Yep - thermostat is probably shot. Worth doing the temperature sensor while you're at it.
On the subject of temp sensor, there is only one, isn't there? On the thermostat housing. And presumably this feeds both the ECU and the gauge? Reason I ask is that my gauge works but I get no reading using Torque Pro or OBD Car Doctor, they both show 0 with no fluctuation, and I've got no error codes. I was checking on the way home as coincidentally I had the exact same problem today. Usually it'll go to half way on the gauge no problem and the blower will be toasty warm at that point, but today it was struggling to get right up to half - nearly there, but just not quite - and the blower was only warm.
[QUOTE=Gold 'N' Brown;814952]On the subject of temp sensor, there is only one, isn't there? On the thermostat housing. And presumably this feeds both the ECU and the gauge? Reason I ask is that my gauge works but I get no reading using Torque Pro or OBD Car Doctor, they both show 0 with no fluctuation, and I've got no error codes. I was checking on the way home as coincidentally I had the exact same problem today. Usually it'll go to half way on the gauge no problem and the blower will be toasty warm at that point, but today it was struggling to get right up to half - nearly there, but just not quite - and the blower was only warm.[/QUOTE]This is what I discovered today. As my temperature gauge fluctuates from one notch down and then centre line. When the needle is on the centre the air becomes quite warm/hot. But when it comes down it's like warm and that's about it. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=M-R-P;814949]Yep - thermostat is probably shot. Worth doing the temperature sensor while you're at it.[/QUOTE]Thanks for that. I've been looking across the net and on similar cars people have had problems which has pointed to the stat being shot. So I'll give that ago when time allows. On the sensor side of things is the sensor apart of the housing or is it a sensor on its own where you can remove and install? Thanks for your reply. Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Renew the heater matrix unit and bleed the cooling system might be worth a try and cute it so u get hot hot hot heat again .good luck
[QUOTE=V70dan;814962]Renew the heater matrix unit and bleed the cooling system might be worth a try and cute it so u get hot hot hot heat again .good luck[/QUOTE]Bleeding the system.... like bleeding any other system? Get it up-to temperature and have the expansion tank cap off and let it bubble out? I'll look into the heater matrix. I have read that this system is a constant flow type and the temperature is control by moving actuators to allow more or less air pass over the core? Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
I've also noticed whilst sitting in tones of traffic thug the needle will get to half way and warm to hot air comes out. Only when I start moving again the needle drops and only Luke warm air comes out. Hope that helps? Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=Footfistart;814965] I'll look into the heater matrix. I have read that this system is a constant flow type and the temperature is control by moving actuators to allow more or less air pass over the core? [/QUOTE] That is basically correct. [QUOTE=Footfistart;814991]I've also noticed whilst sitting in tones of traffic thug the needle will get to half way and warm to hot air comes out. Only when I start moving again the needle drops and only Luke warm air comes out. Hope that helps? [/QUOTE] That is, as you're aware, not normal. I'm sure I speak volumes here and most will agree that if you have a 'cooling issue' and you're unsure of the exact cause, then you need to have the car properly diagnosed by a garage with the proper equipment to be able to diagnose the fault thoroughly and safely. Cooling systems are incredibly dangerous and unless you know what your doing, you run the risk of being badly burnt or scalded - should anything go wrong and your not working in a controlled environment. To properly and safely diagnose the fault you will need: Cooling system pressure tester Sniffer tester Good diagnostics with the ability to accurately read and display live readings for Coolant temp sensor, fan relays, ECM live readings, Terminal 15/30 readings etc etc. Hand held Temperature Infrared Thermometer Heavy duty ground sheet (for laying over the cooling system pressure tester when carrying out the running checks) You need to be able to see eaxctly whats going on both internally, externally and via the ECM's various sensors. A full running check will take about 1 hour. If you don't have the above or are unsure about what you're doing, then please don't post here because none of us will be on hand to help you when it goes horribly wrong! Take it to a garage mate have have it checked properly. You otherwise risk damage to your engine but also potential damage to yourself.
After a couple of weeks more of driving and believing their isn't any air in the system and messing with the temp settings I've discovered a couple of things. First if I'm stationary for a couple of minutes the temp Rises to the middle and doesn't go higher. After setting off and a few minutes later it will drop again to where it usually sits. While stationary the warm air does become warmer then cools a little when moving. Second thing that has become apparent is that the coolant level warning came on just after I bought the car. Thinking nothing of it as I just out about 100 miles through it I just topped it off and all has been well. Now I'm not sure how much the level drops under pressure but the warning came on again going down hill around 70mph. So pulled over and the level was below minimum. So I carefully released the pressure over a couple of minutes and the level rose almost to max. Any clues apart from getting it pressure tested as I can't find any visible leaks. Car is also running on lpg if that helps. Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=Footfistart;815159]After a couple of weeks more of driving and believing their isn't any air in the system and messing with the temp settings I've discovered a couple of things. First if I'm stationary for a couple of minutes the temp Rises to the middle and doesn't go higher. After setting off and a few minutes later it will drop again to where it usually sits. While stationary the warm air does become warmer then cools a little when moving. Second thing that has become apparent is that the coolant level warning came on just after I bought the car. Thinking nothing of it as I just out about 100 miles through it I just topped it off and all has been well. Now I'm not sure how much the level drops under pressure but the warning came on again going down hill around 70mph. So pulled over and the level was below minimum. So I carefully released the pressure over a couple of minutes and the level rose almost to max. Any clues apart from getting it pressure tested as I can't find any visible leaks. Car is also running on lpg if that helps. Ryan Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE] I already advised you on the best cause of action for you to take, clearly you’ve completely ignored my advice. Clearly you have a leak, wether you can see it or not. If you understood cooling systems (which you clearly don’t) then you’d know that the coolant rising in the expansion bottle, if hot, will always rise, when vented to atmospheric pressure, because that’s the law of pyshics. No one is going to offer you any solutions because they won’t be held accountable when you cook your engine. Do yourself a BIG favour and heed my advice in my previous post.
Ta Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=Footfistart;815166]Ta Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE] No problem ;)
Keep us all posted on the outcome though. I’m sure we’d all like to know what the issue was.
Yes that would be helpfull if the problem is sorted failing them suggestions I would look at renewing the water pump .
[QUOTE=Footfistart;815159] Car is also running on lpg if that helps. [/QUOTE] Most likely the system wasn't bled properly after the LPG has been installed.... or there is a leak where the coolant connected to the LPG system (vapouriser) or where they had cut into the main coolant pipe from the engine. Anyways, as Lee said earlier, get it properly diagnosed from the petrol and LPG side too. Loosing coolant is not a joke... certainly not something to play with unless you're prepared to get a new engine....