p2 v70r high miler resto - advice welcome!
Posts
Post 818462 by pepinosport on 2019-04-21 17:46:27
This isn't my first Volvo, but it's the first one that needs major work done.
I bought this high mileage example last week with the idea of refresh it, keep it and use it. It's done 383.000km (roughly 230.000mi) and has been maintained in the same Volvo service until 350.000km. I'm the third owner and bought it from a Volvo enthusiast who also owned a 240turbo, V70r, etc... These are the photos that were sent to me before going to see the car:
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Post 818463 by pepinosport on 2019-04-21 17:52:06
Continued
On the phone seller told me 4x4 isn't working and it isn't the haldex (angle gear it is), airbag and engine check lights had been on for a couple of years, 4c isn't working because of new regular front shocks and it's recently developed a major oil leak through the crankshaft seal, timing side (pcv??).
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Post 818464 by pepinosport on 2019-04-21 18:09:56
At home and after a very quick cleaning:
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[video=youtube_share;KirsM7yOTDg]https://youtu.be/KirsM7yOTDg[/video]
Post 818465 by pepinosport on 2019-04-21 18:12:59
Next steps are fixing the oil leak and angle gear and perform a stage 0, buy 4 Monroes and paint it. I'm also thinking of buying a second hand engine just in case, what do you think? I'm open to suggestions and advice!
Post 818467 by Timo. on 2019-04-21 21:53:40
What a sorry state......
Good luck with the fix up!!
Post 818472 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-04-23 08:34:37
With that many miles on it I'd be looking at rebuilding the engine, at that mileage it's going to have a fair bit of crud in the engine (especially if you're looking for the power). Strip it down and replace all the seals and a cylinder head refurbishment.
If the engine is out you may as well look at refurbishing the turbo too.
And a new PCV system to finish it off.
Post 818473 by kmb on 2019-04-23 10:33:46
Thanks for creating a restoration thread, good luck with the work and keep us informed on your progress.
Post 818474 by Shinsplintz 101 on 2019-04-23 11:11:38
+1 to the above - get a spare engine &/or a full rebuild. Don't forget to shim the liners.
It must have had a replacement Turbo by now but even if it has the budget for a new one - as the KKK's can be prone to premature failure. Although some.have been known to last over 160k with no major issues. It a lottery!
Good luck with the restoration.
Cheers, Morgan
Post 818476 by roryscott30 on 2019-04-24 09:43:30
Hi there,
I recently put a deposit down on a higher mileage ‘06 wil 312k miles on the clock so will be keen to see you progress and equally I will be passing on my story. Mine comes with extensive history and has been converted to lpg at 106k. Turbo was replaced at 280k along with charge pipe. I will be picking it up next week and expecting the worst but work for it’ll be a long term rebuild like yours.
Good luck
Post 818539 by pepinosport on 2019-05-22 10:49:04
Quick update #1
Bought a VIDA DICE and searched for problems. Erased the airbag problem (didn't come on again) and ETM (fingers crossed) and some others that seemed related to a faulty battery. Car still feels lazy and seems to accelerate more with partial throttle load than WOT.
Ended up with this:
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Beam adjustment signal... no idea what that is
Hydraulic pressure faulty valve... no idea, but I knew AWD isn't working
Fuel pressure... ordered a new sensor, hoping it isn't the PEM
Rear heated oxygen... ordered a new one
Shock absorbers... ignore, it's on T5 fronts
Post 818540 by pepinosport on 2019-05-22 11:13:53
[QUOTE=pepinosport;818464]At home and after a very quick cleaning:
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I don't know why this photos are offline. Since I can't edit it I'll upload them again:
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Post 818541 by pepinosport on 2019-05-22 12:05:52
quick update #2
Bought a chinese compression tester... dunno if calibrated but at least you can compare values between cylinders. Did the test with cold engine; with hot engine values are 1bar higher. I don't know how much I can trust the tester, but cyl2 is 1 bar lower than the others both hot and cold and the others should be between 11-13 bar, amirite?
Anyway, I think this values put me in rebuild land and I'm not willing to do that anytime soon. So, for the time being I bought a well maintained shimmed engine from Shemtek.
Photos of the values, cylinder 2 is the last one:
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Post 818544 by pepinosport on 2019-05-22 14:58:41
looks nicely dented lol
thanks for the info on DEM0007, definitely worth a try if it's the least expensive part of the AWD system!
Post 818546 by pepinosport on 2019-05-25 09:17:52
swapped the fuel rail pressure sensor with a new Bosch unit... still get the error code :(
Post 818554 by pepinosport on 2019-05-26 11:13:30
rear o2 sensor changed, no more check engine light :cool:
[QUOTE=pepinosport;818546]swapped the fuel rail pressure sensor with a new Bosch unit... still get the error code :([/QUOTE]
I think it's the PEM, any ideas on how to check it?
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Post 818556 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-05-26 13:58:19
Can you check what duty cycle the fuel pump is running at? Signal too high would be fuel pressure high possibly so there may be something causing that like the ecu compensating for something that has been remedied.
Maybe worth pulling the battery to reset the ecu adaptions?
Post 818559 by pepinosport on 2019-05-26 15:47:43
In VIDA, when reading live values, "fuel pressure nominal" is lower than fuel pressure". To me that means ECM isn't requesting higher values. I understand "nominal" is the request value...
Post 818560 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-05-26 16:06:46
Nominal would mean the lowest acceptable value, but if it's a live value then I'm not sure what Vida means, sorry.
What is the pump duty cycle at when idling?
Post 818619 by pepinosport on 2019-06-03 14:12:38
Engine from Shemtek arrived
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Post 818620 by kmb on 2019-06-03 16:32:03
Sounds like the fun will start very soon!
Post 818622 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-06-03 17:23:07
Wow, bet that wasn't cheap to ship....
Keep the posts coming :)
Post 818626 by pepinosport on 2019-06-03 21:07:21
£150 shipped with p4d. They're amazing!
Post 818633 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-06-04 17:23:22
Nice, you'd pay that for something tiny shipped from the USA
Post 818741 by pepinosport on 2019-07-04 09:39:09
The car has been standing in a parking lot for 2 months and took it yesterday, still running fine if you ignore the filth and the massive oil leak that leaves a sodden timing belt :crazy:
I moved it to my garage and I still don't know where to start... so much to do... Also my RS4 was stolen and I'm not much in the mood of doing anything lately.
Pic from yesterday to keep the thread alive:
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Post 818742 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-07-04 10:49:46
Oh no, that's terrible news!
Hopefully you find the passion to get stuck in and sort out the V70
Post 818743 by kmb on 2019-07-05 10:09:46
Sorry to hear about your stolen car, awful news indeed :(
Hope the insurance covers things quickly and you get the enthusiasm back for the old Volvo.
Post 818744 by pepinosport on 2019-07-05 11:18:32
insurance here can't be arsed... they offer 5-7k for the car. That's definitely not RS4 b5 street price and it's miles away from what I paid. If it doesn't show up I will have to fight hard with the insurance company.
Quick question a bit unrelated: the friend that sold this VR to me snapped the timing belt in his saffron R. He said it's a b5234t4 engine... Is it easy to find another engine to swap? like maybe a b5234t3 is good enough if he fits his ancilliaries, loom and stuff. Or are the b5234 engines very different between them? We searched for info but nothing was clear enough. thanks!
Post 818783 by pepinosport on 2019-07-18 10:31:55
I worked a little bit last week with the idea of finding out why the car lacks on power - if it's the engine itself or some external component.
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I also checked the PCV, because I was having smoke out of the dipstick and a blown crankshaft seal. It turned out to be pretty clean. I used brake cleaner and very little deposits came out
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I'm afraid the blown crankshaft seal is due to the engine being low in compression.
Yesterday I drove 3h to pick up some parts from a friend who's breaking a 2007vr. I wanted to take his haldex (gen3) but I don't think it will work on my 04
Post 818786 by kmb on 2019-07-18 17:50:31
Glad you're making some progress... Have you done a compression test? If so what values came back?
Post 818796 by pepinosport on 2019-07-21 08:34:37
105-90-110-105-100 cold with a Chinese compression tester.
Then repeated with hot engine and returned 115-100-120-115-110
Post 818797 by MoleT-5R on 2019-07-21 12:50:52
Interesting thread good luck with the full refurb, looks like the car needs some serious tlc.....following
Post 818804 by pepinosport on 2019-07-25 08:51:05
Among the parts I bought from a friend there's a driver's seat in mint condition, floor mats, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body, a non-shattered airbox, a new MAF, and plenty of small stuff.
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Also checked the turbo for play or anything strange and it looked pretty good to me:
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I've got a question, what's this valve at the entrance of the trubo?
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Also checked the vacuum tubes to this thing which me thinks is the turbo controller? How to check it?
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Post 818805 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-07-25 19:05:17
The valve before the turbo inlet is part of the crankcase ventilation system (or PCV (positive crankcase ventilation)) and is the PTC valve. It heats up the vapour from the crankcase system (for what reason I do not know)
Yes that should be the turbo control valve (or TCV). I don't think they fail much, the pipework probably disintegrates before the valve stops working.
Post 818810 by kmb on 2019-07-26 09:46:33
Just as a note, I replaced the BCS/TCV on my old 850 and it made a huge difference, they are a wear item, easy to replace and not that expensive, if the car has over 100k it's worth changing I think.
I'll try to find the thread on the topic...
Post 818828 by pepinosport on 2019-07-29 17:07:36
[QUOTE=kmb;818811]Here you go, some reading on BCS/TCV:
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?44730-Which-BCS&highlight=Pierburg[/QUOTE]
thanks! I think I will change it. Vacuum lines looked good though.
Post 818829 by pepinosport on 2019-07-29 17:10:03
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;818805]The valve before the turbo inlet is part of the crankcase ventilation system (or PCV (positive crankcase ventilation)) and is the PTC valve. It heats up the vapour from the crankcase system (for what reason I do not know)
Yes that should be the turbo control valve (or TCV). I don't think they fail much, the pipework probably disintegrates before the valve stops working.[/QUOTE]
so that valve that can't block the vapours coming from the crankcase? is just a piece that gets hot? weird haha
Post 818832 by Dangerous Dave on 2019-07-29 23:05:38
Just heats up, there is no flap to close off the hole
Post 818834 by LeeT5 on 2019-07-31 08:28:45
The PTC valve heats up to prevent the vapours solidifying. They do a good job, until overcome by PCV issues then they become overwhelmed and normally crud up. A good clean as well as rectifying the PCV issues and all will be good.
Make sure you replace ALL the PCV components.
Post 818840 by pepinosport on 2019-08-02 07:59:35
I cleaned all PCV components. I don't see the point in replace them, I cleaned them following the VIDA procedure. After warming up the engine I couldn't see any smoke coming out from the dipstick, so I think it's OK.
Then moved onto the next task, replacing the crankshaft seal -I hope is just that and not something related to the oil pump... do them seals fail?
Anyway, when aligning the marks to remove the timing belt I found some play in the camshaft pulleys, especially in the exhaust one. Is this normal? I recorded a video:
[video=youtube_share;pC3NJGRix9k]https://youtu.be/pC3NJGRix9k[/video]
Post 819398 by pepinosport on 2019-12-19 09:50:05
Current status: waiting for the car to come back to me completely painted.
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Post 819399 by kmb on 2019-12-19 14:40:25
That'll be nice, will they take off the door strips for painting?
Post 819414 by pepinosport on 2019-12-24 14:54:16
yes, side strips were ok, but bumper strips were looking nasty. My mate is going to spray them :)
Post 819517 by pepinosport on 2020-01-24 18:22:03
Found the culprit of my misfires and lack of powah :slap:
Looks like previous owner never changed the plugs:
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Post 819518 by pepinosport on 2020-01-24 18:26:32
I got the car from the paint shop right after christmas:
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Strips detail:
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Post 819519 by pepinosport on 2020-01-24 18:31:13
Yes, I need to solve the saggy bumper. Wheels will also get sorted once I fit fresh rubber to them.
Current status: Trying to pull engine from the top :uglyhamme
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Post 819520 by kmb on 2020-01-26 14:27:23
Lovely progress buddy, paint looks high quality from the photos.
Post 819521 by pepinosport on 2020-01-26 15:16:36
So I started pulling the ancilliaries and I'll try to pull the engine mated to gearbox & angle gear.
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One of the gearbox cables broke on removal, the ball joint stayed and was teared from the rubber :stupid: TBH it looked brittle and tired.
From the bottom I undid the prop and shafts... the short one was difficult and couldn't pry it out, so I spliced the CV joint.
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I didn't dare to lift it with my straps, I think I'll go and buy some levelling thing first, like dis:
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Post 819522 by CALICO on 2020-01-26 18:04:09
Im sure it would be a lot quicker to remove the front slam panel to get the engine out
Post 819534 by pepinosport on 2020-01-28 11:10:22
[QUOTE=CALICO;819522]Im sure it would be a lot quicker to remove the front slam panel to get the engine out[/QUOTE]
How can you do that? I removed all the screws I found and was still solid as ££££. I couldn't remove it!
Post 819559 by pepinosport on 2020-02-03 08:16:13
So I managed to pull the engine. It wasn't very difficult, I just had to remove the cooling fan to avoid hitting the ABS with the gearbox. Aircon and PS were left in place.
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First thing I noticed was the damage on the angle gear :/ I was hoping to see the sleeve stripped but it seems both are damaged
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Not sure which way to go with the AG now... maybe is better to just buy another one than wasting time refurbing this one.
I'm also finding impossible to take out the steel coolant tube coming from behind the water pump... any advice?? :confused:
Post 819560 by kmb on 2020-02-03 10:49:11
Well done on getting it out!
Post 819650 by pepinosport on 2020-02-24 08:04:37
I've been more busy cleaning grime than actually building the car:
[video=youtube;MOpJeoTHgsA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOpJeoTHgsA[/video]
Turbo was sent to the turbo shop. TBH I'm not very confident about the shop telling me it's worthy, as the exhaust housing has several cracks:
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I'm currently fitting the new clutch and DMF, as the original were... well, the original with 383.000km :D :
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I'm also in the middle of refreshing the wiring loom, with new coil connectors from Bosch. These are not the exact fit (couldn't find them), but with a very light cutter trim they fit perfectly :B_thumb: :
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Many new parts arriving, like the much needed front struts:
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Also bought a TME catback and loads of gaskets, seals, suspension parts, etc from SKANDIX and Volvo... Now the engine starts to look better. Here featuring a fressh 2005+ PCV system:
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Stuff still on the shopping list:
- brakes
- a reasonably priced angle gear... oooor maybe contacting this guy: https://www.blocket.se/annons/dalarna/renovering___forstarkning_volvo_vinkelvaxel/75240664 who claims to repair AGs with reliability by welding a new splined end on the entry shaft.
Honestly, I'm way over the amount of money I had planned to spend. Every time I take something apart... 500€ gone :shifty:
Post 819651 by LeeT5 on 2020-02-24 11:17:55
[QUOTE=pepinosport;819534]How can you do that? I removed all the screws I found and was still solid as ££££. I couldn't remove it![/QUOTE]
It's easy! The slam panel is spot welded in 4 places, you can see them from the front of the panel. Just drill out the spot welds (biggest drill bit needed is 8mm) and she falls straight off!
To refit just use M8 stainless steel bolts and lock nuts.
It make future engine, Rad pack removal and absolute breeze. :B_thumb:
Post 819653 by LeeT5 on 2020-02-24 11:20:31
Are you going to go the SMF route or are you sticking with the stock DMF?
I highly recommend going the SMF route and fitting an 07 clutch kit.
Post 819654 by LeeT5 on 2020-02-24 11:28:04
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Post 819656 by pepinosport on 2020-02-24 12:39:12
[QUOTE=LeeT5;819651]It's easy! The slam panel is spot welded in 4 places, you can see them from the front of the panel. Just drill out the spot welds (biggest drill bit needed is 8mm) and she falls straight off!
To refit just use M8 stainless steel bolts and lock nuts.
It make future engine, Rad pack removal and absolute breeze. :B_thumb:[/QUOTE]
oh I see! well, now it's done :D haha thanks!
DMF and clutch are LUK like genuine equipment. I'm after a restoration with a little more spiciness added, but not too much :B_thumb:
Post 819657 by pepinosport on 2020-02-24 12:58:26
:splat: guy from the turbo shop just called to tell me the turbo is FUBAR and that I might as well buy a new one because repairing this one is going to be more expensive.
Post 819658 by LeeT5 on 2020-02-24 13:18:26
[QUOTE=pepinosport;819657]:splat: guy from the turbo shop just called to tell me the turbo is FUBAR and that I might as well buy a new one because repairing this one is going to be more expensive.[/QUOTE]
Oh dear. A new KKK24 from Volvo is £1300!
Post 819659 by Vasquez on 2020-02-25 15:28:42
Why even bother getting a new one?!
Getting a hybrid replacement will cost less and will give your more driveability ;-)
Post 819661 by pepinosport on 2020-02-26 07:59:56
[QUOTE=Vasquez;819659]Why even bother getting a new one?!
Getting a hybrid replacement will cost less and will give your more driveability ;-)[/QUOTE]
yeah, I know, but then I will want bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump and bigger MAF and... I don't want to spend that much :D .
I contacted Turbo Technics to see what are the options. They told me 390GBP for a full refurb, if they're able to source a hot side. My exhaust housing is cracked very close to the turbine and also on the usual spots. And there's no spares...
Post 819673 by Vasquez on 2020-02-28 09:46:25
Naaah, no absolute need for all these complementary mods. A respectable tuner will do a remap based on your actual setup.
Would give you some more headroom in the near future.
Been there, have a 04 Titanium Grey V70R myself ;)
Post 819688 by pepinosport on 2020-03-05 07:47:40
Needs new intercooler too :whatever:
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Post 819689 by LeeT5 on 2020-03-05 10:07:28
Use brake cleaner to remove all that oil residue and see if the IC is cracked on the plastic end piece. It's where they commonly fail. Mine had a 3" crack that was hard to see but obviously opened up under boost.
Pepinosport, can you resize your uploaded images mate. They are way too big and slightly out of focus. Will be almost impossible for phone users to see your pictures ;)
Replacing the stock IC with an aftermarket FMIC is one of the best mods you can do on these cars for many reasons, here are a few..
1. Longevity of a true, all aluminium IC with no plastic components.
2. Aluminium cores are typically larger, so have a greater ability to reduce intake temperatures dramatically.
3. A true FMIC does not suffer with 'heat soak' unlike the stock IC.
4. The secondary stock IC has been proven in the past to make little to no difference to intake temps, due to the very small hoses that connect it to the larger core.
5. Aesthetically pleasing, compared to the stock setup.
6. Will reduce your intake temperature significantly, track proven to as much as 35*C, thus an immediate noticeable performance increase, especially during warmer weather.
I highly recommend an aftermarket FMIC.
Post 819690 by pepinosport on 2020-03-07 23:18:45
[QUOTE=LeeT5;819689]I highly recommend an aftermarket FMIC.[/QUOTE]
sorry about the pics, I thought they were automatically resized :doh:
So yeah, the idea was to buy a DO88 FMIC but I kinda ran out of money in between and bought a used OEM for 50€. The original was already repaired and I didn't want to spend money repairing over a reparation :drunk:
However, luck was on my side this week and I found a facelift turbo for... 60€! This might give me some room for the FMIC, I have to check numbers...
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It looks very good, with no cracks. It's currently in the turbo shop being inspected
Post 819691 by pepinosport on 2020-03-07 23:23:18
I took the intake housing from the old turbo for the new one. It was actually the only part of the turbo that wasn't damaged
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Detail of the cracks on the old turbo:
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Post 819692 by pepinosport on 2020-03-07 23:29:36
More parts arriving like my ITV (MOT) compliant cat to make a custom dowpipe:
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Discs and pads. ALL discs 40€ in Autodoc :sinner:
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New front dampers with new bumstops and covers and so on...
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I hope the pics have the correct size now. But yeah, sorry for the potato quality :dunce:
Post 819695 by pepinosport on 2020-03-09 07:41:02
Here's an interesting thought:
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I had my 383.000km injectors verified, cleaned and with new microfilters and they are now as good as new.
I had another set of injectors with half the mileage coming from a friends '05 that cracked a liner. I thought this set would be better, but upon verification at the injection shop they returned uneven values and some injectors were more than 10% off, especially at higher rpm.
This made me think that all those horror stories about cylinder cracking are more related with a poor maintainance of the injection system rather than the actual block being butter.
Post 819697 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-03-10 10:05:10
It wouldn't help cylinder temperatures having uneven fuelling across cylinders. Though there may be allowances built into the mapping to account for some discrepancies/age related "wear"
Post 819731 by pepinosport on 2020-03-17 14:39:49
My 60€ turbo is back from the shop. It was in very good shape but it's had bearings and balancing done:
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New flywheel fitted:
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And new... DO88 intercooler :cool:
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Post 819736 by kmb on 2020-03-18 10:30:11
Excellent progress, keep it going!
Post 819745 by pepinosport on 2020-03-23 18:22:02
Angle gear on its way to Sweden to be remanufactured by Maskin&Bil.
Rims sent to paint shop right before the COVID ££££storm, so idk how long it will take to have them back :/
Will be fitted with new PZero 4 tyres.
I also went medieval with the angle gear sleeve, but I'm afraid I won't be able to remove it without heat. Can't buy a blow torch because everything is closed
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Post 819776 by pepinosport on 2020-04-17 23:44:19
I've been a lazy ass and didn't work much lately.
Angle gear sleeve was finally removed with some heat
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It was very difficult to push it all the way, I somehow managed to smash the new driveshaft seal with the rubber mallet
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Clutch and new slave cylinder are in place and gearbox too
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All four corners have now new discs and pads and new dampers. I found quite difficult to do the rears
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Post 819777 by pepinosport on 2020-04-17 23:49:54
I also unsuccesfully tried to swap my saggy driver's seat for the mint facelift one that I have. Seems they are completely different :mad:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32659[/ATTACH]
Following with the interior I fitted a rear door panel because mine was broken
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32662[/ATTACH]
New centre armrest
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32661[/ATTACH]
And fresh steering wheel. I had to remove all the facelft stuff from it
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32660[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32663[/ATTACH]
Post 819778 by pepinosport on 2020-04-17 23:59:02
I tried to tidy up the engine bay
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32664[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32665[/ATTACH]
Removed old exhaust to make room for the TME
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32666[/ATTACH]
And today I started with the brake bleeding. The reservoir was really filthy and the fluid was plain gunk
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32667[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32668[/ATTACH]
Post 819786 by pepinosport on 2020-04-23 10:04:56
Engine is already in
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32669[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32670[/ATTACH]
When fitting the intake pipe I found it was fouling with the airbox bracket and making it almost impossible to attach to the IC if already fixed in the TB. This is due to the largest DO88 intercooler. IDK if someone else's had this problem, but I had to cut the bracket with an angle grinder to make some room. I was expecting the DO88 IC to be a more perfect fit than it actually was
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32671[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32672[/ATTACH]
Tight, but that will do. Still think it will eventually crack
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32673[/ATTACH]
Then I bled the clutch and started fitting the rest of ancillaries to find that the OTA pipe doesn't fit because the guys at the turbo shop didn't align the compressor housing properly :cussing:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32674[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32675[/ATTACH]
I broke loose the bolts of the compressor housing half a turn, with the OTA pipe fitted until it dropped, then tightned to the marks I had previously done. I also did marks for the wastegate acutator to check how much it moved. I honestly have no idea if I should touch the adjustment, the leverage angle changed a little bit but unsure if that's enough to make a difference.
Post 819789 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-23 21:17:42
Looking good!
Keep the updates coming
Post 819806 by pepinosport on 2020-04-27 22:32:30
Maybe it's a bit too late for this, since I bought this engine 11 months ago, but with the engine on the car I removed the oil filter -that came with the engine when I bought it- and found this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32678[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32679[/ATTACH]
Tried to ignore it and tossed a new filter and fresh 5w30:
[video=youtube;Td5eFq-thr0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td5eFq-thr0[/video]
Post 819807 by pepinosport on 2020-04-27 22:38:23
Flushed everything and removed oil filter, and here you can see a very nice shiny metallic puddle
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32681[/ATTACH]
I thought the first start noises would go away after a while running -engine has been sat for more than a year- but a follower from the gearbox side keeps ticking. Note how the pitch changes when I go towards the brake fluid reservoir
[video=youtube;GcBiXJjHaRI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcBiXJjHaRI[/video]
Not that I'd expect the engine to be very smooth after the amount of debris I found...
Tomorrow I'll check compression and the bearings and decide what to do. This isn't definitely what I was looking for: an engine rebuild. If I had wanted to do so I'd have reman the original :grumpy: so much dissappointment with this purchased engine.
Post 819808 by pepinosport on 2020-04-27 22:43:59
I don't have experience with Volvo engines, so I'd appreciate any input :wink:
thanks for reading
Post 819809 by LeeT5 on 2020-04-28 07:39:21
[QUOTE=pepinosport;819808]I don't have experience with Volvo engines, so I'd appreciate any input :wink:
thanks for reading[/QUOTE]
Ditch the 5w30 oil, it won't do your engine any good long term.
If your engine is high mileage, you'll get blue smoke on overrun with 5w30 and also under high boost/high load conditions.
You'll be better off using a 10w50 full synthetic Ester based oil. Tremendously great results!
Post 819811 by pepinosport on 2020-04-28 09:59:44
my old engine was on 0w30 with more than 238k miles... and wasn't using oil, was just low on compression.
this engine I bought is supposed to have 119k miles, but seems to have had a rough life
Post 819813 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-28 10:39:19
It sounds like a stuck/dry hydraulic lifter, I had one on my other 850 when I changed the head gasket. A quick spirited drive solved the issue (though I wasn't too fussed about that engine).
Also after I rebuilt my 850s engine all the lifters were cleaned out so it was really noisy on it's first start [video=youtube;61bx0Mj5cnA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61bx0Mj5cnA[/video]
Post 819814 by pepinosport on 2020-04-28 10:46:31
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819813]It sounds like a stuck/dry hydraulic lifter, I had one on my other 850 when I changed the head gasket. A quick spirited drive solved the issue (though I wasn't too fussed about that engine).
Also after I rebuilt my 850s engine all the lifters were cleaned out so it was really noisy on it's first start [video=youtube;61bx0Mj5cnA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61bx0Mj5cnA[/video][/QUOTE]
that's what I thought too, but the metallic debris on the oil filter isn't good sign anyway
Post 819815 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-28 12:03:44
Yeah that debris is a bit of a worry.
Post 819820 by pepinosport on 2020-04-30 11:08:31
I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.
When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32691[/ATTACH]
Anyway, compression values:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32692[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32693[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32694[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32695[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32696[/ATTACH]
According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?
Post 819821 by pepinosport on 2020-04-30 11:18:46
The metallic debris on the oil filter housing was a concern, so I pulled the pan
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32697[/ATTACH]
It wasn't very dirty to be honest. Again the oil showed some very thin metallic debris in suspension
Found a torn seal, unsure about the impact of this in the noisy tapping head
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32698[/ATTACH]
The idea was to check the rod bearings, but I don't seem to have the correct socket to undo those bolts. If anyone knows the size let me know.
VIDA procedure for contaminated oil engines is to check rod number 2, I guess that's the one that fails first. I'll do the same, if the shells look good then the problem and origin of the debris must be on the top of the head.
What do you reckon?
Post 819822 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-04-30 16:01:12
Did you test the compression with the engine warm?
The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.
That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?
Post 819824 by pepinosport on 2020-04-30 19:12:01
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819822]Did you test the compression with the engine warm?
The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.
That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?[/QUOTE]
If the engine had oil starvation on the top there may be something damaged up there.
Because the bearings are just fine :banana:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32699[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32700[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32701[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32702[/ATTACH]
Post 819825 by kmb on 2020-05-01 09:36:22
Sorry to see the metal in the oil filter housing, although good news on the bearings, spark plugs look OK and healthy to me, could it be something simple like they were not all the same age?
Good luck with sorting it all out.
Post 819827 by pepinosport on 2020-05-02 12:39:45
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819822]Did you test the compression with the engine warm?
The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.
That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?[/QUOTE]
sorry I forgot to answer: yes, it was warm. TDC sensor and cam position sensors unplugged, WOT.
Post 819828 by pepinosport on 2020-05-02 12:40:48
I'm currently waiting for the cam locking tool to open the top of the engine
Post 819837 by pepinosport on 2020-05-07 08:49:22
Yesterday I got the timing tools to remove the cam pulleys, so I opened the top.
After removing the pulleys I found the oil seals to be seated incorrectly, which says a lot of how this head was put together after shimming:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32703[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32704[/ATTACH]
The cover revealed lots of burned oil deposits on the 5th cyl area, just where the tapping noise was coming from:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32705[/ATTACH]
Oil passages towards the last journal were clogged or almost clogged on both cams:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32706[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32707[/ATTACH]
Here the oil feed to the last exhaust camshaft journal is completely blocked:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32708[/ATTACH]
I was expecting to find more damage, I honestly don't know, and don't have the tools to assess if this wear is OK or not:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32709[/ATTACH]
I might just put everythng together and send it until something goes pop. I have the feeling that the new o-rings on the pan and clean oil passages at the top of the head should improve things a lot. Pity, because the rest of the engine looked quite good.
Post 819838 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-05-07 11:53:18
Oh dear, two tone rocker cover :(
I'm guessing the engine was run after shimming?
With all the oil galleries cleared and oil getting through properly it may prevent further wear.
If it were me I'd fetch the head off and clean it thoroughly and change the stem seals. Though that would cost more and is it worth it for a possibly beyond repair cylinder head.
Post 819841 by kmb on 2020-05-07 15:52:04
Good progress as you work through the engine.
Just out interest, how was the engine sold to you and under what description? I know there is always a risk, but it's a huge pity when it's an engine swap that should have resolved your issues, not given new ones.
Post 819843 by pepinosport on 2020-05-07 20:52:53
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819838]Oh dear, two tone rocker cover :(
I'm guessing the engine was run after shimming?
With all the oil galleries cleared and oil getting through properly it may prevent further wear.
If it were me I'd fetch the head off and clean it thoroughly and change the stem seals. Though that would cost more and is it worth it for a possibly beyond repair cylinder head.[/QUOTE]
Yes, it was shimmed and tuned by the seller. This engine was in a client's car that according to my informations was broken 2 years later.
Post 819844 by pepinosport on 2020-05-07 21:05:37
[QUOTE=kmb;819841]it's a huge pity when it's an engine swap that should have resolved your issues, not given new ones[/QUOTE]
This is the perfect summary of what I think.
Engine was listed on eBay around one year ago. I saw the seller was renowned and well known in the Volvo world so I went for it. He even sent me the service records but now I have doubts about the booklet coming from the very car this engine belonged to. I wanted something unmolested, but this one, shimmed and with the head done not long ago seemed like a good option. 119k miles.
We're currently in contact via Whatsapp and so far there's good communication
Post 819905 by pepinosport on 2020-05-21 09:30:45
I'm currently busy at home with the family but I've found some spare time to do a couple of things, mainly make everything shiny again:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32721[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32722[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32723[/ATTACH]
I'm really surprised about the amount of carbon deposits on these engines. I'm used to work in Renault hot hatches and I'd never seen oil contamination build up this way before :worried:
I'll wipe the block the best I can and we'll see.
I also ordered the gaskets and camshaft seals @polar-parts but the rings were not grooved, looked like plain silicone and the o-rings for the oil pan had uneven shape and rough edges. Very bad quality parts
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32724[/ATTACH]
So I wrote an email to them explaining this and that I wanted to return the items because they certainly don't meet the OEM quality. They replied very quickly and made a refund without the need for returning the goods, so I'm very happy with their customer service.
Then I ordered the genuine parts at my local dealer. I took some extra because I'm already stocking parts for the rebuild of the old (original) engine.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32725[/ATTACH]
Post 819906 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-05-21 11:21:24
Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?
Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
Post 819911 by pepinosport on 2020-05-22 10:32:12
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;819906]Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?
Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.[/QUOTE]
I used, in the following order, Loctite7200 and a scraper, dishwasher cycle :D and WD40 and a brush.
WD40 and the brush was the most effective method to remove deposits from unreachable corners on the pan, as it's a very good solvent.
I used just what I had at home, and I don't recommend the dishwasher because is very salty and will attack the aluminium
Post 819915 by LeeT5 on 2020-05-22 13:40:21
[QUOTE=pepinosport;819820]I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.
When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32691[/ATTACH]
Anyway, compression values:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32692[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32693[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32694[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32695[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32696[/ATTACH]
According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?[/QUOTE]
The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.
Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
Post 819926 by pepinosport on 2020-05-24 13:04:27
[QUOTE=LeeT5;819915]The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.
Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.[/QUOTE]
wow ok, that's important information I didn't know, thank you. I might repeat the test, together with an oil pressure test once I've put everything together.
Post 819928 by pepinosport on 2020-05-24 14:06:44
My best effort to clean head and block:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32736[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32737[/ATTACH]
It doesn't look like new but I think it has improved a lot.
Post 819932 by kmb on 2020-05-24 23:03:53
Good progress!
Post 819934 by pepinosport on 2020-05-25 05:04:52
[QUOTE=LeeT5;819915]The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.
Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.[/QUOTE]
but, how can you explain that this compression tool returned VIDA values in a friend's T5? 12-12-10-12-12 Because it ate a spark plug.
Post 819984 by pepinosport on 2020-05-31 10:34:15
This week I had the time to finish it, Loctite with a roller and tapped the new seals with the old AG sleeve:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32764[/ATTACH]
and fired it up:
[video=youtube;9lM11LAvK88]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lM11LAvK88[/video]
First start was a little noisy, but already less than before. The video still somehow makes it sound like a bag of spanners but it's so much better. Yesterday was even a tad better, I think it just needs to be driven.
The main problem now is noise on the VVT pulleys (intake I think). I couldn't tighten the pulleys in their marks, so I did my best effort to it and then finely adjusted with the tree bolts that hold the gear to the hub.
To be honest, the VIDA procedure is described like ££££, talking about turning left or right instead of clockwise/counterclockwise and I didn't understand. So I did it my way (which seems to not work properly) and turned the hub completely clockwise, tightened the hub and finally adjust the gear to the marks, as tightening the hub always made it impossible to nail the marks.
I will re-do the timing and see if it improves. The noise is especially worse on warm startup :shifty: Any ideas how to properly do the VVT timing?
Covid still delaying stuff, but wheels are almost there after 3 months :lol:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32765[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32766[/ATTACH]
And the bloody angle gear is still in Sweden and the guy isn't responding to my mails. Busy guy it seems :B_program
Post 819986 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-05-31 13:01:32
Sounds a lot better! The tapping noise is more uniform across the engine by the sound of it.
Hopefully it is sorted now :)
Post 819996 by pepinosport on 2020-06-03 14:33:40
I'm collecting them tonight :)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32768[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32769[/ATTACH]
Post 820086 by pepinosport on 2020-06-30 13:44:38
So I finally received my remanufactured angle gear from Maskin&Bil in Sweden.
First impression is that it isn't very clean and that the output seal for the right driveshaft was missing (it was my old one, still broken)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32786[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32784[/ATTACH]
Let's see how long this lasts:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32785[/ATTACH]
Sealing details:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32787[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32788[/ATTACH]
On a second glance I see this (what the actual F is it?):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32781[/ATTACH]
I gave it a quick clean and fitted the "new style" breather I bought:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32782[/ATTACH]
Post 820087 by pepinosport on 2020-06-30 14:09:38
Then applied some mayonnaise, because we all love it:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32789[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32790[/ATTACH]
It was at this point I realized that half of the angle gear isn't mine, because the bolt marks are in a different hole (maybe this case was coming from an automatic car):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32791[/ATTACH]
So I basically know that my angle gear input shaft is mine because the driveshaft seal is broken in the same fashion. The output shaft isn't mine because I could not find the marks I did to fit the propeller shaft in the same position. Also this case is much more scraped than mine was. I wonder if all this was worth the 630€ I paid in total. Time will tell.
I also find very difficult to torque the bolts at the specified 75Nm. They feel as if the thread is going to break :help: Anyone had this feel before? Using new bolts, of course.
Post 820088 by Dangerous Dave on 2020-06-30 15:01:29
On my 850 AWD the bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 50Nm. Also my angle gear has that extra bolt hole.
Checking the Volvo info the P2 AWDs are supposed to be 75Nm like you say.
That angle gear is a mess, I hope they have cleaned the inside properly as the oil gets really sludgy (check my project thread to see what mine was like before I cleaned it).
Problem is the bearings are supposed to have shims to properly match the input shaft differences (from what I gather). If they've used a different case then I hope they set it up properly! Looking at the quality of the work I'd be doubting it. That's a lot of money for what looks like just cutting off the old splines and welding new splines onto the input shaft, I'd be expecting it to shine for that price!
Post 820099 by kmb on 2020-07-03 09:48:30
I wonder if it went through any treatment or hardening process of some sort, sadly I'd not expect it to last very well without something additional to that already described...
Post 820101 by pepinosport on 2020-07-03 12:32:51
Yeah, I agree with both of you. We'll see how long it lasts.
Meawhile I went and bought some paint:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32793[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32794[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32795[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32796[/ATTACH]
Not bad for 11€. In the last picture you can see bottom original colour, top sprayed, quite close.
Post 820102 by pepinosport on 2020-07-03 12:34:00
The OEM colour is more brownish I'd say and less glossy, but to me looks good.
Post 820103 by bour on 2020-07-03 21:21:16
Hey man, I have a question, could we talk in private messages?
Post 820110 by kmb on 2020-07-06 22:30:15
Hard to see the difference in the photos, nicely done!
Post 820307 by pepinosport on 2020-08-30 18:20:57
In July I fought the damn couriers, because the original radiator was leaking (wow, unexpected from a P2) and EVERY SINGLE radiator arriving home was either bent or broken. Three radiators arrived home, none of them good.
Anyway, I finally gave up and went round the corner to my local scrapyard (always my last option because in this side of the country prices are ridiculous) and got myself an amazing S80 radiator without the auto box lines :smile:
It was a PITA to change because of the weight of the DO88 IC (is it made of steel????:crazy:)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32816[/ATTACH]
After this, I fitted new genuine front ARB links and the short shaft, the one with the RZEPPA joint: it wasn't difficult in the end, I kept the shaft at an angle and put the balls while turning the whole assembly. Some 98 petrol, quick wash and was ready to go out for a spin:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32817[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32818[/ATTACH]
Post 820308 by pepinosport on 2020-08-30 18:33:29
As a curiosity, a good friend of mine, who bought his p2 almost at the same time last year, has also just finished it:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32819[/ATTACH]
He's tried to do a replica of the S60 challenge and I've to say I love it. It was a Maya Yellow T5 with beige/sand interior, completely sunburnt inside and outside. Now it's a Passion Red with black leather/textile interior + Nebulas on Eibach springs. And backbox delete, because :riceboy:
Not too shabby!
Clutch lasted for one week after he finished it :rally_dri
Post 820309 by pepinosport on 2020-08-30 18:46:28
The project slowly goes forward, after my recent paternity I didn't find much time and sometimes family visiting would last up to one month... :help:
During the first day, the car had a blowing TME exhaust and was overboosting. I hadn't use any exhaust assembly paste, thinking the TME stuff would seal perfectly. It is sorted now.
The overboosting problem I think it comes from the wastegate actuator. After my turbo rebuild, the shop left the compressor housing with the wrong angle and I had to rotate, changing the effective displacement of the wastegate rod. So I removed some tension (one full turn) and it didn't overboost, then added half a turn and still goes OK, but feels slow when compared with the T5. I'll look at it more carefully.
Then there was the "too high fuel pressure", that I wasn't able to solve with the new FPS or PEM. Will carefully check everything with a multimeter.
And finally, there was some problems with the lights: I've an intermitent bi-xenon solenoid failure on the left headlight and a permanent failure with the beam height adjustment. I'm also looking into that.
Once everything is sorted it will be MOT (ITV here) time.
I'm also looking into some TME springs, as I don't like the ride height ATM
Post 820410 by pepinosport on 2020-09-19 10:43:16
So, the intermitent overboosting was due to a sticking turbo solenoid. Sometimes would underboost too. I had a used one laying in the garage and fitted it and now it's OKish. Sometimes I get hesitation and what feels like throttle modulation when flooring it between 3k and 4k rpm. Probably the wastegate needs adjustment :confused:
Too high fuel pressure: this was easy, but difficult to find. Previous owner wired the pump earth directly to the chassis, bypassing the PEM. The PEM was faulty, but hopefully I had one that was working fine. Fuel pump was replaced in 2015 and still goes strong, so problem solved.
The bi-xenon solenoid failure was the position sensor inside the headlamp. I just fiddled a bit with the cable and now's working. The headling height adjustment was due to a blown fuse. The headlamp height motors use the same fuse as the headlight wipers. I had a seized headlight wiper that was blowing the fuse, so I went to the scrapyrd and 35€ and one fuse later everything was working fine.
Things I'd like to do before christmas:
1. Downpipe, swapping the original broken cat with a 200cell sports cat. I'm currently running a second downpipe
2. Sort the interior, torn leather on the driver's seat, filth, broken auto dimming mirror...
3. Currently waiting for my TME spring set
4. Subframe bushings, still undecided: XC90 or solid?
Post 822815 by pepinosport on 2024-04-01 12:16:33
hmm long time no write :thread:
- I finally fitted the TME springs with new original top mounts.
- I went for the solid billet subframe bushings from Shemtek. The understeer was MASSIVE with these. The car also feels harsh and much worse in noise (higher frequency)
- To solve the understeer I went for Powerflex front LCA bushings and it improved slightly, although I still dont like the progressiveness at the grip limit.
- Fitted poweflex at the rear in the trailing and control arms. New alignment, drives beautifully, but still undecided about the solid subframe bushings. I wouldn't want to change them... How are you guys liking this mod?
- Steering rack refurb and new column Ujoint. Steering precision is just amazing now.
- 200 cell competition core on original downpipe, for that stealthy look :D
- Exhaust manifold gaskets burnt. Fitted C30 T5 part number
- Fuel pump gone due to the previous bypass that had it working at full pressure all the time. The original Volvo pump, changed in the official Volvo dealer in 2016, was routed the wrong way with the auxiliary pump, showing kinks an whatnot. New DW300 fitted with the idea to tune the car.
Post 822816 by pepinosport on 2024-04-01 14:51:28
That pretty much sums up the first 18.000km of the motor vehicle.
It includes long trips with the family up to 3000+km and a trip to the south of france to Montecarlo rally. Several issues with brakes, with no bite at all (brake booster leaking air), broken one-way valves in the vacuum circuit, etc...
At this point, I decided to contact Gustav Urbas (ContrastWorks) to tune the vehicle. This was November 2021. We're in April 2024 and I'm still on the basic stage 2 map he sent in January 2022. He was super helpful at the beginning but then he went silent. I just wanted to know if his calibration was ok, because I paid for a 300bhp tuned vehicle and believe me I'm using all 300+ of them, so I don't want the engine to ££££ itself due to a wrong map. It's usually Porsche drivers that get caught by the perfomance of the V70 :dgrin: but also some S5 and early A45 struggle to keep. I'm happy, but sometimes I can feel uneven pull from the engine, as if it were reducing boost or delaying ignition with partial and full throttle runs. Checked spark plugs, bought a new pierburg TCV, checkd for boost leaks, etc... no idea. Gustav won't answer.
As of today it's on 416.000km, engine is strong and has gone through a pair of PZero 4's and a full set of brake pads. It has developed an oil leak in the sump oil pump side and needs oil change and belts. VVT units are very noisy on hot starts and sometimes hot starts are diffcult (too much cranking, low idle that picks up eventually). Picture of the car as it sits at the moment:
https://ibb.co/sq0hP4h
Abandoned in the unit because I bought a V40 D4 to replace it as a daily/family car in the beginning of 2022. Then I got a Clio 203 end of 2022 and a Megane f1 team end of 2023, and these are taking a lot of my time, because Renault.